Socio-Economic Assessment and Marketing Constraints of …ijirssc.in/pdf/1464791550.pdf · International Journal of Interdisciplinary Research in Science Society and ... a Case Study

International Journal of Interdisciplinary Research in Science Society and Culture(IJIRSSC) Vol: 2, Issue:1, (June Issue), 2016 ISSN: (P) 2395-4345, (O) 2455-2909 © IJIRSSC

www.ijirssc.in Page 191

Socio-Economic Assessment and Marketing

Constraints of the Handloom Units - a Case Study of

Bishnupur Municipal Town, Bankura District (West

Bengal)

Tanisha Mitra

Faculty, Department of Geography

Bidhan Chandra College, Rishra (Under University of Calcutta)

31. G.T. Road (East), Hooghly – 712248, West Bengal ____________________________________________________________________________________________

ABSTRACT : Handlooms are synonymous with Indian traditions. They occupy a significant part of the

economy and are a vital employment provider in millions of rural households. Handlooms are a

distinguished non-farm sector in our country. Bishnupur municipal town in Bankura district of West

Bengal is a cradle of handloom weavers, who create magic with silk threads and produce the unique

Baluchari and Swarnachuri saris which portray our rich heritage. There are around 1220 looms

producing handlooms worth Rs 16 million annually in Bishnupur municipal town. More than 15% of

the total workforce in the area is engaged in Handloom production. This paper is an attempt to assess

the socio-economic profile of the weaver households in some wards of Bishnupur municipality. The

uniqueness of Baluchari saris which are a speciality of the Bishnupur handloom units have been

analysed here and their production processes have been dealt with. The paper also sheds light on

various problems especially related to marketing and promotion of handloom products. Mostly

illiterate and unskilled, the weavers are subject to credit and infrastructural problems and fall prey to

middlemen or mahajans, who claim a large share of their earnings and deprive the weavers despite

their hardwork. Finally some possible recommendations in the form of credit facilities, product

diversification and market promotion have been stated to enhance the livelihood of the weavers.

Keywords: : Baluchari saris, Bishnupur weavers , Handloom unit, Marketing problems , Traditional

Art,

_________________________________________________________________________________________

I. Introduction:

Industrialisation refers to a phenomenon of social and economic transformation that

transforms an agrarian economy into an industrial sector[1].. Industries can further be grouped

according to rural and urban locations. Generally, „cottage industries‟ form a part of „rural

industries‟. Goods are produced manually usually with the help of family members. The Fiscal

Commission in 1950, defined a cottage industry as “one which is carried on wholly or

primarily with the help of members of the family either as a whole or a part-time occupation”

[2] . Cottage industries further comprise of Handlooms, Handicrafts, Coir, Silk and Khadi and

village industries.



Handlooms being labour intensive in nature employ a large number of unskilled rural

populations [3.] The art of spinning is an ancient art thriving in many households of rural

Bengal but is now almost on the verge of extinction. Facing threats from different spheres, the

handloom weavers need strong structural and financial support to deal with the constraints and

an assessment is thus necessary to understand their status.

II. Objectives of the Study:

The main objectives in this paper is -

1. To evaluate the socio-economic conditions of the sample households.

2. To analyse the performance and progress of the handloom units.

3. To observe the marketing facilities and marketing problems of the handloom fabrics.

4. To identify other problems faced by the weavers and suggest suitable remedial

measures for their wellbeing.

III. Database and Methodology:

The study is primarily based on both primary and secondary data. The primary data have

been gathered through structured questionnaires, personal interviews, discussions and

observations. Secondary data were collected from the reports of Census Office, Bishnupur

Municipality Office, Handloom Development Office (Bankura) various books and journals

have also been used as reference. The collected data have been analysed to understand the

socio-economic conditions and marketing problems of the weaver households.

IV. Selection of the Study Area:

Bishnupur in Bankura district (West Bengal) is located between 22057‟15”N to

23012‟32”N latitude and 87

031‟46‟‟E to 87

024‟11‟‟E longitude. Bishnupur (also spelt

Vishnupur) is named after Lord Vishnu, the deity of the Vaishnavite Malla kings who ruled it.

The town had a glorious past in the 17th

and 18th

centuries. It was the capital of the Malla

Kingdom. Bishnupur is famous for its unique architecture and traditional handicrafts such as

weaving and pottery. Situated at an average elevation of 59 metres, the total population of

Bishnupur municipal town according to 2011 census was 67783.

Bishnupur Municipal town lies within the Bishnupur sub-division in Bankura district.

The municipality is bordered in the North by the Darika Goswaipur Panchayat, Morr

Panchayat in the South, Pansuili Panchayat in the East and Dwadas Bari Panchayat in the

West. Bishnupur municipal town is a significant trade centre in West Bengal. The economy is

trade based involving retail and wholesale business. Cottage industries such as Brass Metals,

Handloom Weaving and Conch-shell products are the prime source of income for a large

section of people.



In the 18th

century and the early part of the 19th

century, Bishnupur played a vital role in

the commerce of East India Company due to the famous Bishnupur silks There was a huge

demand for embroidered silk scarves and „Dhupchhaya‟ saris in the foreign market.

Table 1: Handloom Units in Bishnupur Sub-division (2004 - 05)

Sl No. Name of the Block No.of Looms

1. Bishnupur 154

2. Joypur 575

3. Kotulpur 508

4. Indas 338

5. Patrasayer 581

6. Sonamukhi 79

Source: Handloom Development Office, Bankura

Ward Nos. 12 and 17 of Bishnupur Municipality house most of the production units of

Baluchari, Swarnachuri and other traditional products of silk and cotton such as bed-sheets,

towels and „gamchhas‟, shirting etc. The locality is known as Tantipara owing to the weavers

or „Tantis‟. Almost every household consists of a loom where the master craftsmen weave out

colourful and intricate designs on silk. Baluchari and Swarnachuri are the most well known

products of the units.

Table 2: Categories of Handloom Units

Categories Type of Unit Nature of Product of the Unit

I

Unit produced Silk based

products

Baluchari

Swarnachuri

Katan silk

Tasar Silk

II

Unit produced Non-Silk based

products

Bedsheet

Woolen Chadar

Gamchha

Cotton Thans



V. Result and Discussion:

Demographic highlights of the weaver households:

According to the 2011 Census, there are 690 and 583 households in Ward Nos. 12 and

17 respectively under Bishnupur Municipality. Some demographic aspects of the two localities

have been discussed below:

Population Composition:

The total population of Ward Nos. 12 and 17 is 3252 and 2601 respectively. In both the

wards, the male female population is almost balanced. In Ward 12, 50.5% are males, whereas,

49.5% are females. On the other hand, in Ward 17, 51.7% are males and 48.3% of the

population are females.

Caste Composition:

The weavers in the study area belong mainly to the General Caste, while a small

percentage of population belongs to the Scheduled Caste category. No Scheduled Tribe

population has been found. In Ward No. 12, 86.2% of population belong to General Caste and

only 13.8% belong to SC category. On the other hand, in Ward No. 17, 90.6% of population

belong to General Caste and only 9.4% belong to SC category. The weavers of ward no. 12

belong to Bauri community and there is also a slum area named Kailashtala Bauri Para, where

people of lower class and poor economic background reside.

Literacy Status:

Literacy forms the backbone of any developing society. Bishnupur, though a heritage

town does not lag behind in its educational pursuits. The predominance of literate population in

comparison to its illiterate counterpart verifies the same. In ward no. 12, almost 74% of the

population is literate while 26% is illiterate. On the other hand, in ward no. 17, nearly 85.7% of

the population is literate and only 14.3% have not received education. Literacy among female

members of the family has also been noticed. Govt. Schemes such as Sarva Siksha Abhiyan

and Anganwari schools have played a major role in this case. Besides a number of primary,

secondary and higher secondary schools in Bishnupur municipal town, there is also a degree

college (Ramananda College) and a Polytechnic Institution in the area.

Occupational Status:

The study area comprises mostly of weaver households. Agriculture has taken a back

foot since irrigation facilities are not well developed and production is low. The farmers have

to depend on alternative sources of income and the cottage and small scale industries provide

such alternative employment. They also require relatively low amount of capital fund. The



number of main other workers and main household workers are high in both ward nos. 12 and

17 in comparison to main agricultural labourers.

Household Income:

Most of the weaver households belong to poor category. Weavers engaged in Silk Units

earn Rs 150 to Rs 200 a day, while those engaged in the Cotton Units get around Rs 90 to Rs

120 per day. Some Bishnupur weavers are not able to find employment on a regular monthly

basis and work part time as weavers and the rest of the time as farm labourers or vegetable

vendors. The monthly income of weaver households ranges between Rs 5000 and Rs 15000. In

both the wards, almost 58% of families fall in the monthly income group of under Rs 5000.

Around 30% belong to monthly income group of Rs 5000 – Rs 10000 and the rest 12% earn

more than Rs 10000 per month.

The prime source of income for the weaver households are the handlooms. Around

63.8% of the family income comes from weaving. Some weavers have agricultural lands or

work as farm labourers and 27.4% of family income comes from agricultural activities. Some

of the households receive financial benefit from Govt. poverty alleviation programmes, while a

meagre share of household income comes from retail business and other professions such as

vendors and masons.

Work Participation:

Production in the handloom units are usually carried out by the family members. In

some cases, engagement of skilled craftsmen has also been found. Around 67.98% males and

68.83% of females comprise the workforce. Work participation rate among women is higher

than men. Another interesting fact noticed from the survey is that there is a huge involvement

of old aged females in pre-loom activities like sizing, warping, spinning and drafting.

Participation of girl children was also higher in comparison to the boys. Most of the looms

were handled by full time weavers but presence of some part-time weavers was also seen.

These part-time weavers are either engaged in agricultural or business activities as their main

occupation.

BALUCHARI SARIS – Distinguished Features and Processes Involved:

Baluchari saris originated from Baluchar village in Murshidabad district. The „Nawab‟

rulers patronized the rich weaves but after their decline under the British rule, the art seemed to

perish. Post Independence, in 1956, two acclaimed Bengali personalities; Shri Subho Tagore

and Smt. Kamala Devi Chattopadhyay took initiative to re-introduce the art in Bishnupur.



The Baluchari saris are hand-woven in richly dyed silk, depicting stories from ancient

India, including tales from the Ramayana and Mahabharata. The famous characters of Ram,

Sita, Krishna and Gopis are displayed exuberantly along the borders, and whole scenes are

presented on the large pallus. Some designs include kings, noblemen and graceful dancing girls

with celebratory scenes and ceremonies. The intricate designs on Baluchari saris have been

inspired by the carvings on terracotta temples of Bishnupur.

The Baluchari sari designs are first sketched and then copied on to punching cards

which are used in the jacquard loom to weave the pattern. The cards have punched holes which

correspond to the designs. Thousands of punched cards are required for one sari design. When

a hole is punched, a hook carrying the warp thread to be woven with the weft thread is raised.

These hooks can be connected to more than one thread, allowing multiple weaving of a

repeated pattern.

Fig. 1. Steps of production process of Baluchari Saris:

Source of Raw Material:

Weaver households usually procure raw materials from the local market comprising of

co-operatives & mahajans. Baluchari producing units are especially dependent on the mahajans

for their raw materials. Other related organizations such as Khadi & Village Industries

Commission (KVIC) also provide raw materials but the involvement of middlemen and

mahajans makes it difficult for the weavers to contact them directly.

CULTIVATION OF COCOONS

PROCESSING OF THE YARNS

DESIGNING OF THE MOTIFS

WEAVING OUT THE DESIGNS

ADDING FINISHING TOUCH AND

POLISHING OF THE SARIS



Marketing of the Finished Products:

A good marketing strategy is required for a product to survive in the market when there

is stiff competition of substitute products [4]. A major portion of the weaver households

surveyed did not have any own channel. They are usually dependent on the mahajans to sell

their products. Agents or middlemen play an active role in distributing and selling the finished

products. The weavers are left over with a narrow profit margin.

The cost involved in the production units can be stated under four heads –

Cost of Raw Materials

Pre-loom Wages

Weaving Charges

Fixed Overhead Charges

Skilled weavers sit in front of huge jacquard looms and strings of punched cards and

weave out exquisite designs. It takes almost a week to complete a sari, and the weavers are

paid a meagre amount of Rs 150 to Rs 200 a day. There are several middlemen and co-

operatives involved in the sari business. They collect raw materials, supply them to the

weavers and after completion of the products, and arrange for their sale in the local and

national market.

Table 3: Cost Comparison at Production Unit (Weaver Households) and Market

Products Price at Production Unit

(Rupees)

Price at Market (Rupees)

Baluchari 1800 – 2200 3500 – 6000

Swarnachuri 2200 – 3500 4500 – 7000

Silk Thans 1500 – 2100 2800 – 3500

Cotton Shawl 80 – 120 200 – 250

Cotton Bedsheet 200 – 250 350 – 450

Woolen Shawl 150 – 180 250 – 300

Gamchha 40 – 50 80 – 100

Source : Primary Survey



Fig 2. Schematic Diagram showing the major marketing problems faced by the weavers

Some of the additional problems faced by the Handloom units are also stated as under:

Lack of modern Machinery and other equipments.

Stiff competition from mills and power-looms.

Shortage of Raw Materials leading to reduced capacity utilisation.

Unawareness of information pertaining to Govt. Policies and schemes.

Lack of skilled technicians and spare parts of looms.

Absence of formal training of weavers.

Inadequate income generation of the weavers due to presence of mahajans and

middlemen.

Lack of innovative designs and high price of designs.

Prospects of the Handloom Units:

Handloom is unique in its versatility and the strength primarily lies in the introduction

of exquisite designs which cannot be duplicated by the power-loom sector. Handloom products

are not just „luxury‟ items, but also „wage goods‟ that are capable of catering to different kinds

of national and local markets which need to be linked [5]. There is a consistent demand for

handloom products in our society as the weaves are synonymous with the rich Indian

traditions. But the plight of handloom weavers are on the decline because of competition from

the cheaper machine made substitutes available in the market.

Poor Finish of the

Product

Lack of Quality

Control

Same Monotonous

Designs

Lack of marketing

knowledge

Lack of further

processing work centre

Unfamiliarity with

Export Activities

Ignorance of Potential

Markets

Competition from

technically efficient units

MARKETING PROBLEMS



The demand for Baluchari, Swarnachuri and other expensive silks are on a decreasing

trend since these saris are not for daily wear and their maintenance is also expensive. Besides

the same and monotonous designs and the lack of innovative designs are adding to the

declining trend. The weavers fear that if the demand continues to stagnate, many of the

handloom units shall have to be shut down and the weavers shall have to switch professions.

Recommendations for the Revival of the Handloom Units in Bishnupur

Town:

Market research needs to be carried out to find out new items in which weaving

methods can be adopted. Utility goods such as scarves, tablemats, home decor items and

handbags can be weaved with the unique designs which are used to produce saris. This will

promote the sales and provide employment to youth. The artisans need to be trained in new

ways so that a new thrust is given to their capability and potential. Computer Aided Designs

(CAD) needs to be used to speed up the production process and ease the task of motif-making.

The Government, NGOs and civil society have to actively participate in nurturing and

preserving the age old weaving crafts, that is almost on the verge of extinction. The demand for

handloom products will face resurgence through the development of retail business and

tourism. Domestic and foreign tourists have a fondness for ethnic and genuine Indian products,

and handloom can cater to their requirements. This will give an automatic boost to the sector

and the benefits will trickle down to the weaver households. Trade fairs need to be organized at

the rural level enabling weavers to come in direct contact with the consumers and promote

their sales.

Steps for skill upgradation in weaving and use of fine yarn have been taken up in recent

years under Rashtriya Sam Vikas Yojana (RSVY). Handloom Development Organisations

have initiated training programmes for young weavers especially women. Self Help Groups

(SHGs) have been formed in this regard. Linkages with banks, co-operatives, marketing

institutions such as Tantuja, Tantushree, etc. have also been made. Weaver I-cards have been

distributed to 2819 weavers in Bishnupur. Health Insurance Schemes (HIS) have been

introduced. Besides, 574 weavers are covered under Mahatma Gandhi Bunkar Bima Yojana

(MGBBY) according to Directorate of Textiles (Handlooms), 2012-13.

VI. Conclusion:

Handloom units have been a source of employment for millions across the country. It

ranks almost second after agriculture in our economy. It has witnessed many changes under the

Five-Year Plans in independent India, but is still facing threats from several spheres.

Handloom weavers in Bishnupur are in a miserable state and are being forced to shift

professions and venture into new employment options. Problems such as improper supply of



raw materials, obsolete technology, credit shortage, and involvement of mahajans,

unavailability of marketing facilities, competition from power-loom products and lack of

awareness related to marketing and promotion of handloom products are the root cause of their

despair.

Handloom units in Bishnupur need proper conditions for growth. The socio-economic

condition of the weaver households is very poor and need support in terms of education,

finance and training. Proper measures should be taken to prevent the traditional art of

handloom from dying an untimely demise.

References :

Chatterjee K. (2012): „Cotton Textile Industry in West Bengal – Challenges Ahead‟.

Published by Calcutta University Press, Kolkata.

Rao, R.V. (1967): 'Cottage and Small Scale Industries'. Sterling Publishers, Delhi.

Kumar P.S. (2015): „Handloom Industry in India – A Study‟. International Journal of

Multidisciplinary Research and Development; 2(1):pp 24-29.

Narzary J. (2013): „Marketing problems and prospects of handicrafts industry in

B.T.A.D.‟; Global Research Methodology Journal, vol- II, 7th

issue.

Chandrasekhar C.P. (2001): 'Handlooms in survival mode'. Paper presented in the

seminar on “Growth and Prospects of the Handloom Industry”. Centre for Economic

and Social Studies, Hyderabad, Sept 23-24.

Dash S. (1995): „Handloom Industry in India‟. Mittal Publications, New Delhi.

Dr. Soundarapandian M.(2002): „Growth and Prospects of Handloom Sector in India‟;

NABARD (Mumbai).

Handloom Census of India 2009-10. Development Commission (Handlooms). Ministry

of Textiles (Govt. of India).

District Human Development Report (Bankura) 2006, Development and Planning

Department (Govt. of West Bengal).

Weblinks: www.hepcindia.com

handlooms.nic.in

chitrolekha.com/baluchari-sarees-of-bishnupur

http://www.hepcindia.com/

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Socio-Economic Assessment and Marketing Constraints of …ijirssc.in/pdf/1464791550.pdf · International Journal of Interdisciplinary Research in Science Society and ... a Case Study