Small Shop Dust Collector

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    A shop vacuum is great for collecting dust and chips in a smallshop. But there are a couple of problems with it. The lter quicklyclogs with dust, which reduces suction. And the limited capacityof many vacuums means you need to empty them frequently.

    The system you see here solves both of those issues. A com-mercial cyclone unit diverts most of the debris into a largehopper. This empties into a standard yard waste bag for easyremoval and disposal. With a compact footprint and low-cost

    materials, this is a great upgrade for any shop.

    best-builtjigs & fixtures

    Simple upgrades turnyour shop vacuuminto an efficient dust-collection system.

    small shop

    DustCollector

    { Yard Waste Bag. Dust and chips drop into a yard

    waste bag for easy disposal. Interlocking bars keep

    he bag in place when the door is closed.

    24 ShopNotes No. 137

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    Materials & Hardware

    A Sides (2) 14 x 72 - 34Ply.

    B Top/Bottom/Dividers (4) 1334x 23 - 34Ply.

    C Partition (1) 1334x 1412- 34Ply.

    D Toe Kick (1) 314x 2212- 34 Ply.

    E Back (1) 2312x 6834- 14Ply.

    F Plate (1) 1334x 2212 - 34 Ply.

    G Side Strips (2) 218x 1334- 14Ply.

    H Back Strip (1) 134x 1814 - 14Ply.

    I Gate (1) 24 x 1512- 14Ply.

    J Chute Front (1) 34x 3 - 1734K Chute Back (1) 34x 412- 1734L Chute Sides (2) 34x 3 - 1014

    M Rear Baffle (1)3

    4x 47

    16- 221

    2

    N Side Baffles (2) 34x 4716- 1334O Front (1) 24 x 2138 - 34 Ply.

    P Glass Stop (1) 34x 12- 23 rgh.

    Q Lower Door (1) 24 x 3214 - 34 Ply.

    R Lock Rail (1) 34x 1316- 1734S Shelves (2) 1034x 13 - 34 Ply.

    T Upper Doors (2) 111516x 1434- 34 Ply.

    (18) #8 x 112" Fh Woodscrews

    (6) #6 x 12" Fh Woodscrews

    (1) 278" x 578" - 18" Glass

    (1) 38" x 14" Weatherstripping

    (7) 112" x 112" Butt Hinges w/Screws

    (2) Draw Latches w/Screws

    (8) 14" Shelf Supports

    (2) Magnetic Catches w/Screws

    (1) Dust Deputy Cyclone

    (6) 14"-20 x 112" Carriage Bolts, Washers & Nu

    (3) 434" Pulls w/Screws

    (1) 8" x 34" Hanger Strap

    (2) #8 x 12" Rh Woodscrews

    (1) 2" Long Sweep PVC Elbow

    (1) 2" Long Sweep Street PVC Elbow

    (2) 2"-112" PVC Reducers

    (2) 2" PVC 45 Elbows

    (1) 10' x 2" Schedule 40 PVC Pipe

    (1) Yard Waste Bag

    ShopNotes.com 25

    Materials & Hardware

    COMMERCIAL CYCLONE

    UNIT SEPARATES CHIPS

    AND LARGE DUST

    PARTICLES INTO HOPPER

    ANGLED

    BAFFLES DIRECT

    DEBRIS INTO

    YARD WASTE BAG

    WEATHER

    STRIPPING

    SMALL WINDOW

    LETS YOU KNOW

    WHEN TO EMPTYHOPPER

    FRONT PANEL

    SECURED WITH

    SCREWS FOR

    EASY REMOVAL

    SIMPLE SLIP FIT

    MAKES IT EASY

    TO DISCONNECT

    SHOP VACUUM

    FOR OTHER USES

    SHOP VACUUM

    FILTER STAYS

    CLEAN AND

    RUNS MORE

    EFFICIENTLY

    EASY-ACCESS UPPER

    COMPARTMENT ADDS

    EXTRA STORAGE

    TO YOUR SHOP

    SLIDING GATE

    LETS DUST

    AND CHIPS

    FALL INTO BAG

    A FULLY

    ENCLOSED

    CABINET

    ELIMINATES

    DUST CLOUDS

    WHEN

    EMPTYING

    HOPPER

    YARD WASTE

    BAG MAKES FOR

    EASY DISPOSAL

    OF SAWDUST

    LARGE HOPPER

    MEANS YOU DON'T

    HAVE TO EMPTY IT

    VERY OFTEN

    WEATHERSTRIPPING

    SEALS HOPPER

    COMPARTMENT

    USE PVC PIPING

    AND BLAST GATE

    TO CONNECT DUS

    COLLECTOR T

    OTHER TOOL

    OVERALL DIMENSIONS: 24"W x 72"H x 1534"D

    Exploded View Details

    To download acutting diagram forthe dust collector,

    go to:ShopNotes.com

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    CL

    CL

    CL

    SIDE(14" x 72")

    TOP(13#/4" x 23")

    BOTTOM(13#/4" x 23")

    PARTITION(13#/4" x 14!/2")

    TOE KICK(3!/4" x 22!/2")

    BACK(23!/2" x 68#/4")

    B

    A

    D

    E

    NOTE: BACKIS !/4" PLYWOOD.ALL OTHERPARTS ARE #/4"PLYWOOD

    NOTE: HOLESARE 3"-DIA.

    5!/4

    8!!/16

    5!!/16

    5!!/16

    3#/8

    3!/4

    1#/4

    35#/4

    3!/4

    2

    UPPER DIVIDER(13#/4" x 23")B

    LOWER DIVIDER(13#/4" x 23")

    B

    B

    NOTE: CENTERMORTISE ONLOWERCOMPARTMENTOPENING

    A

    C

    2

    One of the nice things about thissystem is that everything is con-tained in a space-saving cabinet.

    The cabinet is divided into fourcompartments. Up top, youllnd the cyclone unit behind theright door. The left door coversa storage compartment for vac-uum accessories or other items.

    The middle compartment inthe cabinet is the collection hop-per. The chips and other debrisfall from the cyclone into thissealed chamber.

    The lower compartment issized to hold a commonly avail-able yard waste bag. You canempty the hopper into the bagwithout raising a cloud of dust.

    Figure 1 shows the generalstructure of the cabinet. You cansee that it goes together with

    fairly simple dado and rabbetjoints. What makes things a littleout of the ordinary is that thesides and back are pretty long.So instead of taking the parts tothe table saw like I usually do, Iturned to portable power tools tohandle most of the work.

    I used a circular saw to cut thesides and back to size. (The top,

    bottom, dividers, partition, and

    toe kick are all small enough tocut at the table saw.)

    A hand-held router and astraightedge guide make a goodcombination for cutting the dado

    joints. Its a good idea to measurethe plywood to nd a bit thatmatches the thickness.

    The rabbet along the back edgeof the sides requires a differentapproach, as shown in Figure1c. Here, you can use a bearing-guided rabbeting bit to do the job.

    A Few Details. I want to takea moment to look at a few detailsin some of the cabinet pieces. Firstoff, the top, bottom, and dividersare all the same size. Except forthe bottom, the other panels needsome additional work.

    The top and upper dividerhave a centered dado to holdthe partition, as in Figures 1 and1a. You also need to drill somelarge holes. These accommodatethe connections for the cyclone.I used a hole saw and a heavy-duty hand drill.

    build a tall plywood

    Cabinet

    1

    FIGURE

    FRONTVIEW

    SIDE

    TOP

    PARTITION

    #/4

    !/4

    !/4

    a.

    SIDE

    LOWER DIVIDER

    BACK

    FRONT VIEW

    2

    !/4

    1!/2

    MORTISEFOR HINGE

    b.

    SIDE

    BACK

    PARTITION

    !/4

    TOPVIEW

    !/4c.

    24

    DIVIDER

    #/4

    NOTE: DRILLSHELF PIN HOLESAFTER GLUING UP

    THE CASE

    SIDE VIEW

    1

    2

    #/16

    2

    SIDE

    TOP

    1!/2

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    NOTE: CHUTEPARTS ARE MADEFROM #/4"-THICKHARDWOOD

    J

    I

    H

    G

    F

    PLATE(13#/4" x 22!/2")

    SIDE STRIP(2!/8" x 13#/4")

    BACK STRIP(1#/4" x 18!/4")

    GATE(24" x 15!/2")

    CHUTE FRONT(3" x 17#/4")

    CHUTE SIDE(3" x 10!/4")

    CHUTE BACK(4!/2" x 17#/4")

    1#/4

    NOTE: ASSEMBLEGATE AND CHUTE THENATTACH TO LOWERDIVIDER WITH SCREWS

    NOTE: PLATE IS#/4" PLYWOOD.GATE AND STRIPSARE !/4" PLYWOOD

    NOTE: CHUTEASSEMBLY INSTALLED

    FLUSH WITH INSIDEFRONT/SIDES OF

    OPENING ON PLATE

    G

    K

    L

    L

    ShopNotes.com 27

    2 FIGURE

    The lower divider has a largeopening cut in it. This allowsdust and chips to fall from thehopper compartment to the bag.

    Hassle-Free Assembly. Glu-

    ing up a large cabinet like thiscould cause some anxiety. Butyou can simplify things by add-ing glue to the joints and nailingthe cabinet with an air nailer. Thislets you get on with the construc-tion without wrangling a lot ofclamps or waiting for glue to dry.

    This stage of the process is agood time to cut mortises forthe hinges. If you turn to page32, you can see the jig I used to

    support a hand-held router andlocate the mortises accurately.

    Dust Chute. Its time to turnyour attention to some interiorwork. This involves making theassembly that seals off the bot-tom of the hopper. The rst partof the assembly is shown in Fig-ure 2. It consists of a sliding gatethats sandwiched between thelower divider and a plate. Belowthat is a chute that ts inside the

    opening of the yard waste bag.

    The plate has a pair of open-ings for chips to fall through. Thelarger opening handles most of

    the material. Ill explain the rea-son for the other one in a bit.

    Glue a few strips of thin ply-wood around the top face of theplate. This creates a pocket forthe gate once the plate is attachedto the lower divider.

    The Gate. The gate is sized tot inside the pocket and seal offthe large opening in the lowerdivider. You can use the drawingat right to guide you while cut-

    ting it to shape.The two horns at the back of

    the gate are important features.They snowplow any dust thatdrifts into the gate pocket tothe narrow slot that you cut inthe plate. This system preventsdust from building up over timethat could keep the gate fromclosing and creating a good seal.

    A Chute. The remaining part ofthe assembly is a framework that

    acts as a chute for dust and holds

    the bag in position. There are twothings to note here. The chutefront has a groove cut in it that

    lines up with a mating rail in thedoor to pinch the bag and hold itin place (Figure 2c).

    The other detail is the backpiece. Its wider than the othersto help you align the bag for easyinstallation. These are glued inplace, and the whole assemblycan be screwed to the bottom ofthe lower divider, as in Figure 2.

    FRONTVIEW

    #8 x 1!/2" FhWOODSCREW

    PLATE

    CHUTEBACK

    CHUTE

    SIDE 2#/4

    #/4

    !/4"CHAMFER

    2#/8

    GATE

    a.

    SIDE VIEW

    G

    F

    B

    CHUTE SIDE

    CHUTEBACKCHUTE

    FRONT

    #/8

    !/4

    !/4"CHAMFERS

    2

    1

    c.

    NOTE: DASH LINESSHOW EDGES OF CHUTE

    TOP VIEW

    1#/4PLATE

    #/4

    3!/8

    #/4

    BACK

    2!/8

    b.

    CL

    GATE

    2&/8

    TOP VIEW

    11#/4

    1!/2

    #/4

    1

    1"-DIA.

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    CL

    M

    PN

    REARBAFFLE

    (4&/16" x 22!/2")

    SIDEBAFFLE

    (4&/16" x 13#/4")

    FRONT PANEL(24" x 21#/8")

    GLASS STOP(!/2" x #/4")

    NOTE: BAFFLESAND GLASS STOP

    ARE #/4"-THICKHARDWOOD.

    FRONT PANEL IS#/4" PLYWOOD

    GLASSPANEL

    (2&/8" x 5&/8"- !/8")

    MITER GLASSSTOP TO FIT

    OPENING ANDSECURE WITH

    SCREWS

    APPLY SELF-ADHESIVEWEATHERSTRIPPING TO

    CABINET BEFOREATTACHING FRONT PANEL

    O

    1!/2

    3

    6

    N

    #8 x 1!/4" FhWOODSCREW

    3

    Just a bit of work is left on thehopper before you can close it in.After that, building a few doorswraps up the woodworking.Then youll be ready for install-ing the cyclone and making theairow connections.

    The hole in the lower dividerallows most of the dust and chips

    inside the hopper to fall into thebag. To direct all the dust andchips toward the hole, I installed

    a set of angled bafes on threesides of the opening.

    The rear bafe is the rst andsimplest to make and install.It has a 45 bevel along eachedge, as you can see in Figure 3.Clamping this piece would be achallenge, so I used brads to xits position while the glue dried.

    The side bafe pieces start outthe same as the rear piece, witha bevel cut along each edge. Butin order for them to t seamlessly

    against the rear piece, they needcompound miters cut at the backends. This takes into account the

    angle of the rear bafe and theangle of the side bafes.

    I used a table saw to make thiscut. Figure 3b helps you set themiter gauge and blade angle.After cutting the miter, tilt the

    blade back to 90 and trim thebafe to nal length. For the otherside bafe, you need to set themiter gauge to the opposite angleand use the other miter gauge slot.

    Closing In. The front of thehopper is sealed with a plywood

    panel. A small glass window inthe panel lets you see when toempty the hopper once thedust gets halfway up the win-dow is a good time. The glass isset in a rabbet and held in placewith L-shaped glass stop, as illus-trated in Figure 3c.

    In case I need to open up thehopper at some point to clear aclog, I didnt glue the front panelin place. Instead its held with

    screws. To maintain a good seal, Iwrapped the edge with adhesive-

    backed weatherstripping.Lower Door. The three doors

    on this project are all prettystraightforward slab doors.But there are still a few thingsabout each one that deserve someattention. On the inside face ofthe lower door, theres a rail witha tongue cut on one edge (Fig-ure 4b). As I mentioned earlier,

    this works with the groove in

    enclosing the

    Cabinet

    3!/8

    Q

    LOCK RAIL(1#/16" x 17#/4")

    LOWERDOOR

    (24" x 32!/4")

    4#/4" HANDLEW/SCREWS

    NOTE: DOORIS MADE FROM#/4" PLYWOOD.LOCK RAIL ISMADE FROM#/4"-THICKHARDWOOD

    DRAW LATCHW/SCREWS

    PAPERYARD WASTE

    BAG

    R

    4

    FRONTVIEW

    REARBAFFLE

    SIDEBAFFLE

    SECURE BAFFLESWITH GLUE AND

    BRAD NAILS

    45

    a.

    SIDEVIEW

    #/8FRONTPANEL

    GLASSSTOP

    #6 x #/4" FhWOODSCREW

    GLASS

    !/4

    !/4

    !/16

    c.

    SIDEVIEW !/4

    LOCKRAIL

    LOWERDOOR

    LOCK RAIL PRESSESBAG INTO GROOVE IN

    CHUTE FRONT

    !/4

    b.

    SIDEVIEW

    LOWERDOOR

    4

    2

    a.

    55

    ONE END OF EACHSIDE BAFFLE IS

    CUT AT ACOMPOUND

    MITER

    35

    b.

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    the chute front to hold the bag.Attach the rail so that the tongueon the rail aligns with the groovein the chute front.

    The hinges on the door aremounted on the inside face. Onthe opposite edge, I used drawlatches. This way the bag cant

    force the door open as it

    lls up.Shelves. Before making theupper doors, you can cut a pairof shelves for the upper storagecompartment (Figure 5). Theyrest on adjustable shelf supports.

    Upper Doors. The upperdoors are just smaller versions ofthe lower door. Simple magneticcatches hold these doors closed.

    Painted Finish. I decided topaint the outside of the cabinet.(The inside has a clear nish.)The key thing is preparing thesurfaces, especially the cut edgesof the plywood. After sandingthe whole project, I used drywallspackle to ll the edges and thensanded them smooth.

    A coat of primer is the nextstep. I like to sand the primercoat to make sure the surfacesare smooth. If you nd a blem-ish, you can ll it and re-primethat section. This prep work sets

    the stage for applying the n-ish coats of paint. Two coats ofpaint are all thats necessary for agood-looking, durable nish.

    The Cyclone. The nal step isto install the cyclone unit. Use theholes in the cyclone to drill mount-ing holes in the cabinet, as in Fig-ures 5 and 5b. For the tightest seal,apply a thin bead of kitchen and

    bath sealant to the bottom of thecyclone before attaching it.

    Figure 6 has the details for abasic setup to connect your shop

    vacuum and tools to the collec-tor. To minimize air leaks, wrapthe joint between the PVCreduc-ers and the cyclone with foil tape(lower right photo).

    The dust collector is now readyto go. Its a great upgrade for anyshop vacuum. And in no time,your shop will be cleaner.

    S

    T

    SHELF(#/4" x 10#/4" - 13")

    UPPER DOOR(11!%/16" x 14#/4")

    NOTE: SHELVESAND DOORS AREMADE FROM #/4"PLYWOOD

    DUSTDEPUTY

    CYCLONEUNIT

    HANDLEW/SCREWS

    L-SHAPEDSHELF

    SUPPORTS

    ST

    MAGNETIC CATCHW/SCREWS

    2" TO 1.5" PVCREDUCER

    2" PVC PIPE(3" LONG)

    2" PVC(LONG SWEEP)

    ELBOW

    #/4" x 8"HANGERSTRAP

    2" PVC PIPE(3" LONG)2" TO 1.5" PVC

    REDUCER

    2" PVC45 ELBOW

    #8 x !/2" RhWOODSCREW

    VACUUMHOSE

    2" PVC PIPE(2" LONG)

    2" PVC(LONG SWEEP)STREET ELBOW

    6

    5

    TOPVIEW

    TOTOOL

    NOTE: ANGLETOOL INLET PIPE

    TO RUNAGAINST WALL

    WALLa.

    } Cyclone. The

    design of the

    cyclone draws

    dust and chips oof the air flow so

    they dont fill the

    vacuum canister.

    ShopNotes.com 29

    SIDEVIEWUPPERDOOR

    !#/16

    SHELF

    2

    a.

    SIDEVIEW

    USE CYCLONETO LOCATEMOUNTING

    HOLES

    !/4-20 x 1!/2"CARRIAGEBOLTS,

    WASHERS,ANDNUTS

    APPLY A BEAD OFKITCHEN/BATHSEALANT TO

    BASE OFCYCLONE BEFORE

    INSTALLING

    b