Shirt Interlining – Finishing and Function

Shirt Interlining

• inside collar, cuffs and front placket (seam)

• essential part of every shirt

• invisible, but influences the visual appearance and gives a unique look (handle, volume, shape, design)

• a failure in the interlining, esp. at the collar makes the shirt unusable

Shirt production figures

top 5 countries

Exports to EU 2011

Exports to US 2011

total %

China 123 127 250 Bangladesh 116 115 231 India 51 31 82 Indonesia 17 45 62 Vietnam 21 38 59 684 68 % Turkey 26 2 Honduras 0 22 others 172 103

total 526 483 1009 100 %

The biggest countries of woven shirt production (in million shirts)

Quality characteristics

perfect coating low shrinkage high and stable whiteness

Production steps

CARE

DYEING

RAISING

FINISHING

COATING

DESIZING

SINGEING

BLEACHING

INSPECTION / QC

SEWING

FUSING

BASE MATERIAL

Base material

• cotton, woven

more than 95 % of the shirt interlining articles are made of woven cotton fabrics due to handle (voluminous), shrinkage properties, washability

• polyamide / polyester

woven or weft insert for light-weight interlining articles

Singeing

During the singeing process, protruding fibre ends are removed by burning down with a gas flame

Advantages of singed fabrics are

• smooth and fibre free surface

• increased and even wettability

• even surface after dyeing

• improved coating result

Pictures from osthoff-senge GmbH & Co. KG

before singeing after singeing

Desizing

Size improves the running properties of the warp during weaving.

Before finishing this size has to be removed to ensure:

• perfect bleaching result / high level of whiteness

• even dyeing

• soft handle

• good absorbency

Desizing

General recommendations for desizing

All types of synthetic sizes need time for absorbing water and for swelling.

The dwelling time for good degradation increases if:

• solubility and water penetration is reduced in case of - additionally used sizing assistants (fats, additives) - blends of size with different water absorption

• penetration is low because the sized warp yarn was overdried

Starch and modified starch sizes can be desized with amylases (cold or hot) or with persulphates in a cold pad batch process

Desizing – Starch size

Pad batch / pad roll

starch size

padding 6 – 10 g/l PERIZYM TAW D.C. (80 – 90 °C)

dwelling 4 – 8 h

rinsing 1 ml/l NaOH 48 °Bé or 2 g/l soda ash

2 – 4 chambers hot / warm

Desizing – PVA sizes

Pad batch / pad roll

PVA sizes

padding 2 g/l PERLAVIN NIC 0.5 g/l PERIQUEST BSD

dwelling 4 – 10 h

rinsing 1 g/l PERLAVIN NIC 0.5 g/l PERIQUEST BSD

pH 8 – 8.5

Alkaline pretreatment

• removing of cotton accompanying substances (fats, waxes, hemicelluloses, pectines)

• better rewetting properties

• swelling of the fibre

• increases the degree of whiteness during subsequent bleaching

Common recipe for wet-in-wet: 1 – 2 g/l PERLAVIN NIC

40 ml/l NaOH 50 %

Important: Minimum rinsing temperature = 80 °C

This avoids the redeposition of the already dissolved impurities

Bleaching

• removing of coloured impurities

• removing of the seed coats

• good dyeability

• reproducable degree of whiteness

There are various possibilities to bleach interlining articles…

before bleaching after bleaching

Possible bleaching routes

pad steam bleaching

cold pad batch

bleaching with desizing

resin finish

reactive dyeing

cold pad batch

resin finish

full white interlining articles

2 step bleaching

coloured interlining articles

Bleaching with desizing – Cold pad batch

padding 4 – 8 g/l PERLAVIN NIC 4 – 6 g/l PERISTAL PD (or PERISTAL PSK conc.) 20 – 40 ml/l NaOH 50 % 40 – 80 ml/l H2O2 50 % 4 g/l persulphate (optional for starch size)

dwelling 18 – 24 hours

washing 95 °C / 95 °C / 80 °C / 60 °C /30 °C

for high degree of whiteness a second bleaching process has to follow

Bleaching – Pad steam bleaching

impregnation wet-in-wet

2 – 4 ml/kg PERLAVIN NIC 6 – 10 ml/kg PERISTAL PSK conc. 15 – 40 ml/l NaOH 50 % 25 – 40 ml/l H2O2 50 %

dwelling (saturated steam)

10 – 20 min at 102 °C

washing

85 – 95 °C / 85 – 95 °C / 70 °C / 30°C

Raising

for a voluminous and soft handle

Raising machine

• teases out the ends of the fibers in the cloth to produce a nap

• has a large main roller with several small ones positioned around it The small one (raising card with metal bristles) rotate quickly, in either the same direction or opposite of that of the cloth.

Reactive dyeing

A wide range of dyeing processes are possible, depending e.g. on the available machinery, the used reactive dyes, depth of colour shade, types of salt and alkali. Product recommendation for cold pad batch dyeing: dyeing 1 – 4 g/l PERIWET ELB NEW 1 – 2 g/l PERIQUEST BSD soaping 1 – 2 g/l PERLAVIN SRD fixing 10 – 30 g/l PERFIXAN AMZ

Finishing of the shirt interlining fabric

• dyeing

• optical brightening - high and stable whiteness

• handle modification e.g. soft or hard

• shrinkage stability (by resin finish) - low washing shrinkage - low heat shrinkage

• smoothness after washing (by resin finish)

Resin finish - Crosslinking

• the applied resin reacts with the cotton

• the cotton molecules are crosslinked by the resin

• these crosslinked cotton molecules can not move anymore during washing

smoothness after washing and shrinkage stability

Finishing at the stenter

• application of the finishing

chemicals at the padder

(e.g. optical brightener,

handle-imparting agents,

resin finish)

• drying and curing e.g. shock

curing at the stenter

Resin finish – Soft handle

50 – 100 g/l PERFIXAN CLY light weight fabric: 50 – 70 g/l heavy weight fabric: 70 – 100 g/l

20 – 50 g/l PERISTAL KSV

0.5 – 1.0 g/l PERIWET ELR

12 – 15 g/l Optical brightener, e.g. PERIBLANC BN liq.

20 – 30 g/l Softener, not yellowing, e.g. PERISOFT NIS/R PERISOFT NANO PERISOFT SML

drying, curing: 3 min at 140 °C

Resin finish – Hard handle

80 – 100 g/l PERFIXAN CLY

30 – 50 g/l PERISTAL KSV

0.5 – 1.0 g/l PERIWET ELR

12 – 15 g/l Optical brightener, e.g. PERIBLANC BN liq.

140 – 150 g/l PERICOAT VA 150 NEW

Shock curing at 170 °C

For hard interlining articles with a fabric weight > 130 g/m²

Powder-dot coating

finished cloth powder hopper IR-heating calender roller

engraved roller

heating roller

Coating powder

Polyethylen (HDPE)

Polyester (PES)

Polyamide (PA)

PERICOAT MELT PA 11

Inspection / Quality control

First control of grey cloth

Intermediate controls between the individual steps of finishing

Final control e.g. • inspection of rolls • shade of white / colour

• handle

• wash shrinkage & heat shrinkage

• bond strength values & coating

• weight /sqm & construction

• width

Production of the fused collar

Step 1: Cutting

• cutting the interlining parts of the collar (basic, patch, collar band)

• cutting the shirt collar (2 x collar, 2 x collar band)

Step 2: Fusing

• the interlining parts are positioned on the shirt fabric in compliances with the seam distances and fused together on the fusing press

Temperature: 160 – 170 °C

Pressure: 18 – 22 N/cm²

Time: 15 – 20 sec

Fusing on the fusing press

Fusing is the interaction of HEAT (= Temperature + Fusing time) and PRESSURE

Sewing

Main steps of sewing the shirt collar

sewing topstitching cutting runstitching

Care

Ironing – Influence of heat

Temperature of the soleplate of a household iron acc. to DIN 44885

Adjustment Average

Temperature

C

Lower

limit

C

Upper

limit

C

•

••

•••

95

130

175

70

100

140

120

160

210

Maximum 220 180 260

The temperature adjustment for ironing shirts should therefore not exceed the adjustment.

• This was a short trip into the field of interlining finishing and special requirements regarding interlining articles

• Please feel free to contact us if you

- come across interlining manufacturers

- have any questions regarding interlining finishing

- need information on our corresponding products

The above indications are based on the latest state of our knowledge. Due to different operational conditions and requirements these are guidelines only. A legally binding assurance cannot be drawn from our indications. Our technical staff will always be at your disposal to support you in testing our auxiliaries and to answer further technical questions. 04/2016