Shade Seminar 2010

8/9/2019 Shade Seminar 2010

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Where you always get the help you need

Shade Gardening

An introduction to proper practices for shade gardening

June 12, 2010

Presented By

James Kerr, CNLP, BSLD

1051 US Highway 202, Ringoes, NJ 08551 (908) 788-2600


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Getting to understand Shade Gardens

As we all know from being around nurseries and garden

centers we see all these colorful flowers, but the problem is

that most of these plants require full sun. What if we live in

a shady area, wooden lot perhaps, or have this certain partof your property maybe along your house that you always

look at because nothing will produce the colors and impact

that you want it to? We all have these spots on our

properties, and I want to review with you some good

techniques to give you that pop or the great accent bed

that you want.

Today I will be reviewing the following:

A.Types of Shaded areas

B.Soil Preparation, fertilizing and plant spacing

A.Methods to reduce Shade

C.A selection of perennials for shade

D.Using Native plants and the benefits
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TYPES OF SHADED GARDENS

Dappled Shade:is created by a light canopy of tree

foliage, possibly a pergola. This is where a moving pattern

of sunlight and shade across the ground provides direct sun

for one or two hours a day, then the area receives bright

indirect sun during the rest of the day.

Light Shade: is also open shade because the area is open

to the sky, but hedges, walls or other structures block the

direct light. The area still receives plenty of reflectedbright light even though there is no direct sun.

Deep Shade: is basically the area that doesnt receive any

direct sun. These areas are commonly found under

evergreens. There are plants that will grow in these areas

but very few will thrive. (Basic rules of survival andestablishment)

The most common shade terms that I hear from my

clients and are also listed on plant labels are:

Partial Sun and Partial Shade; these terms are often

used interchangeably to mean 3-6 hours of sun each day,preferably in the morning and early

afternoon.However..

Partial Sun definition:is that there is greater emphasis

that the plant is receiving minimal sun requirements.


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Partial Shade definition: is that the plant will need some

relief from the intense late afternoon sun.

Soil Preparation, fertilizing, and plant

spacing

Proper soil preparation is vital for any type of garden, the

soil in shade gardens often have even more deficiencies

than soil in open sunny spaces.

Soil Causing Problems: Trees, hedges, shrubs, walls

and deep/damp leaf litter

o Robs moisture, nutrients creates root competition

o Walls deflect rain water resulting in dry soil

o Deep/damp leaf litter promotes fungal diseases

and infestation of slugs and snails

Organic matter (OM): COMPOST: LEAF MOLD: PEAT it

helps the soil retain moisture in sandy soils, loosens clay

soils, improves soil drainage, and releases nutrients intosoil. Spreading a 2 inch layer of lightweight organic mulch

around the plants is a good rule of thumb. Plants in

competition with large shrubs may require more frequent

watering than areas that have a lack of sunlight, which

reduces the rate of evaporation.

Fertilizing: Shade Plants need regular fertilizing

Shade plants have slower metabolism than that of sun-

loving plants

Use a mild fertilizer, slow release fertilizer such as a

10-10-10 or fish emulsion mixture (liquid mixture that

provides N,P,K)


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Pay attention to plants that are acid loving use a

special fertilizer ex. Azaleas and Rhodies

Spacing of Shade Loving Plants:

Shade plants are more sensitive to spacing reqs. than

sun loving plants

Planting to close reduces air circulation and promotes

fungal disease such as powdery mildew.

VERY IMPORTANT!! Dont allow decaying leaf litter,

large pieces of bark and other debris clutter up in-

between the plants.

Methods to reduce shade

The best method to reduce deep shade to dappled shade

under trees and shrubs is by PRUNING.

Thinning out branches opens up the canopy allowing

more light to reach the ground and increasing air

circulation

Removed dead or diseased branches first

Prune those that grow toward the center of the tree of

shrub

Prune selectively until you achieve the desired amount

of shade


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Removing the lowest branches will raise the trees

canopy and permit more direct sun to reach the

ground.

Obvious Option: complete removal of large shrubs and

trees

If they are planted to close together

The leaf litter or the fruit that drop from the

trees/shrubs which are toxic to most plants such as the

infamous Black Walnut

Black Walnut

PROPER PRUNING TOOLS OF THE TRADE
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Anvil-Cut Pruner

Pruning Saw

Bypass Pruner

Proper Way to

Remove a Branch

a. Three-cut pruning method

1. First, create a break point by cutting approximately6 out from where the branch joins the main stem.

Begin by cutting at the bottom of the branch and

continue to 1/3 through the stem

2. Second, move out on the branch approximately 1-3

from the first cut. Begin at the top of the branch and

cut through until main


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3. portion of branch falls off. Hold

the remainder of the stem in hand

to prevent tearing and finish the

cut off starting at the bark ridge on

top and following the natural line

outside the branch collar.

A selection of Plant Material for shade

Perennials and Annuals: Shade Trees and

Shrubs:

Hosta : Full Shade perennial Barberry

**

Bleeding Heart: Full Shade perennial Azaleas

Daylilly: Partial Shade perennial Flowering

Dogwoods

Foxglove: Partial Shade perennial

Rhododendrons

Coral bells: Partial Shade perennial

Hydrangea

Columbine: Partial Shade perennial Hemlock

Begonia: Full Shade Annual Flowering

Redbuds

Impatiens: Full Shade Annual Viburnums

Coleus: Full Shade Annual Witch hazel

Petunia: Partial Shade Annual Boxwoods

Sweet Alyssum: Partial Shade Annual Sweetbay

Magnolia

Gold Mop Cypress **


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** NOTE: These plants will grow, however, bear in mind that they will

not show their true beauty/colors. For example, Red Barberry will

revert back to green. Gold Mop Cypress will revert back to green and

will loose their yellow color.

Using Native plants and the benefits

USING NATIVE PLANT MATERIAL EQUALS LOW

MAINTAINANCE!

ESTABLISH TO THE NEW AREA INSTEAD OF

SURVIVING

LESS WATERING, FERTILIZING AND GENERAL PLANT

UPKEEP

THEY BLOOM AND GROW WITHOUT HUMAN

INTERVENTION

FEND OFF PESTS NATURALLY, PROPAGATE WITHOUT

HELP

MOST LIKELY DROUGHT TOLERANT; ABLE TO

WITHSTAND STRESS OF OCCASIONAL DRY PERIODS

MOST OF ALL NATIVE PLANTS COST LESS BECAUSE

THEY GROW/TURNOVER QUICKER

Examples:

Redbud Highbush Blueberry

Serviceberry Carex/Sedge

Aronia (Chokeberry) Geranium

Sweetbay Magnolia Big Leaved Asters


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Viburnums Wild ginger

Columbine Mayapple

Jack-in- the-pulpit

Visit www.RutgersLN.com for more information on thesetypes of plants and other information related to the green

industry

Documents

Shade Seminar 2010