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8 Street Styles Trends

THE FASHION FORECAST MEN & YOUNG MEN S/S 16

T-SHIRTSTEES & SNEAKERS

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n° 1.735, jun 13 16th

With over five years’ experience writing on men’s style, Seniors Ma-gazine with Juan Pablo Machuca del-ves deep into men’s collections.

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Skinny Jeans vs. Wide-Leg Pants for Men? A seniors Writer Defends the Slim CutBaggy or narrow? Boxy or ti-ght? This fall, the pants debate extends to the guys, too. Below, one Vogue writer tells us why this season, emboldened by the likes of Saint Laurent, he’s sticking to his skinny jeans. And over here, another point of view.

I bought my first pair of skinny jeans after seeing them in W magazine. This was sometime in 2007 or 2008. It didn’t matter that the jeans on the page were for women; I soon decided that the sun had set on my mid-aught days of wearing True Religion boot-cuts or Rock & Re-public standard fits. (Pictures of me from 2005 in bleached True Reli-gions as a teenager at Marquee in New York seem wantonly ridiculous now.)The pair featured in W was

from Ksubi (once Tsubi), the some-times-dead, sometimes-alive Austra-lian streetwear brand. (It’s alive right now, with its financial woes righted, it seems.) This, in and of itself, captured my attention—why the hell wasn’t I born a skateboarder from Sydney? At that point, I was just an ex-squash pla-

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yer from Long Island, drinking my way through sunny college. Yet, beneath that unsexy side-by-side, I think I finally recognized the permissibility of going tight—that there were clothes out there for men with bodies like mine. A little research revealed that Ksubi-slash-Tsu-bi had a store on Mulberry Street. So down I went with my friend Chloe, and, lo, it was revealed to us that they designed men’s clothes in addition to women’s, and behold, I walked out of the shop wearing my debut pair, a warm gray wash of narrow drainpipes, the company’s double-cross logo standing proudly on the back of my left thigh.

These days, 90 percent of my denim wardrobe con-sists of Ksubi skinny jeans—I own around 20 pairs. My favorites are the very skinniest, one pair in uniform black, one in greasy noir. Years ago, I would wear this cut—I believe the label calls it the Van Winkle—with outré trendy pieces, like Prada’s rhinesto-ne-encrusted golf jacket or Given-chy’s Rottweiler sweatshirt. No longer. But while those pieces have been deep-sixed in my closet, the skinnies live on. For instance, as I write this, I am wearing a pair with Stan Smiths and a Yeezus at Glastonbury hoodie. I look far too

casual to be in the office, perhaps—but I like how I look. The skinnies are the anchor. To note, I also own Acne Studios and Saint Laurent, those fancier skinny- jean hawkers, but I don’t put them on so often. The Ksubis are, for all intents and purposes, spray-paint-tight. Wet suit tight. That’s why I like them so much. That’s why I wear them so much. Here’s my rationale:

1. I’m 6-foot-6 (6-foot-4-ish with my worrying posture), and I have thin legs—not runway thin, but the sort that look like they’re drowning and gawky when covered by, say, a chino from J.Crew or a dress pant from Theory. Even “slim-fit” looks big and kind of gross on me.

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In the world of fashion and style, form is often prioritised over function. Com-fort? Relegated to the back seat. Many a style blogger or fashion follower will happily put up with blisters and the like for a pair of beautiful shoes – after all, footwear is one of the most important aspects of any look.

Yet occasionally we manage to achieve that elusive footwear equilibrium; the perfect balance of comfort and style. Finding this sweet spot is becoming increasing difficult, yet a trend currently sweeping the industry has brought to the fore not only form, but function as well.

The shoe, or more accurately, trainer, in question is the retro running shoe.

Footwear Trend: Retro Running Trainers

Fashion Trends

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The trainer, love it or loathe it, is very much a menswear essential. They make a versatile addition to any modern man’s off-duty wardrobe – especially mature, minimalist takes that are devoid of os-tentatious branding and design features, which allows them to be dressed up or down effortlessly.The new running shoe trend builds on the foundations set by these timeless sil-houettes, offering an extremely practical, comfortable and on point option that differs from the usual suspects of Chuck Taylors, Stan Smiths, Jack Purcells and

Nike Blazers.Yet despite the running trainer’s prac-tical intent and sporting heritage, it is important to note that this year’s selec-tion isn’t built for the strains of physical exertion. For the purpose of this trend, you should be prioritising aesthetics, rather than the technology incorporated within the shoe.

Your runners will add a touch of vin-tage cool and a sports luxe feel to any ensemble you choose to integrate them into. Just make sure you steer clear of the gym, track or field whilst donning your pair – you don’t want these getting scuffed up.

This silhouette isn’t just one for the casual dresser, either. We are currently seeing many gents incorporating them into smart-casual ensembles, and even more utilising them for a stylish and comfortable commute (switching when they reach the office, of course).

This is one trend that actually began on the streets, with the high fashion in-dustry quickly cottoning on to the rise of the running silhouette and releasing their own versions to combat the po-pularity of specialist brands like New Balance, Saucony and Nike.

Street Style Lookbook

Retro Runners

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Reinforcing the trend’s continued in-fluence and growth, our street style collective has captured a wide variety of gents wearing their runners in a number of distinct ways through both SS13 and AW13 – from casual to smart-casual and even dressed-down formal:

Key Brand Consideration #1: New BalanceNo longer the reserve of the late, great Steve Jobs, New Balance has enjoyed a spectacular rise in status over the past couple of years. The brand have actually been producing superb trainers for the best part of a century now (just ask your gran-ddad) and are famed for their tech-nical versions that offer support and comfort like it’s going out of fashion – it’s not, by the way.

To pull off the trend and for maxi-mum style points, steer clear of the

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more athletic and modern te-chnical designs. Instead, classic models like the 574, 577, 996 and 373 offer looks, comfort and a huge range of colour ways to consider

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Key Brand Consideration #2: ValentinoLegendary Italian fashion house and couture curators Valentino may seem like an odd brand to single out when discussing retro running trainers. However, their SS13 camouflage run-ning trainers became an overnight cult classic and perhaps THE must-

own piece of the year, selling out within a matter of weeks.So popular and sought-after they have become, everyone from Zara to Topman have been forced to react and produce their own lower cost versions for AW13. With camo trainers soon to be ubiqui-tous on high streets up and down the

country, one way to separate yours from the pretenders is to invest in the originals.With this in mind, this season Valen-tino have carried on down a similar route with even more camouflage ren-ditions in varying colours and patter-ns, although, thankfully, the now iconic silhouette has been retained. The high fashion approach even incorporates traditional running trainer detailing such as mesh, studding and coloured panels for a sense of authenticity.

Simply put, Valentino’s runners offer true sports luxe appeal and represent the apex of this trend:

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How To Wear: Retro Running ShoesLookbook Inspiration

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This trend-led outfit incorporates some of the key elements currently at the forefront of men’s fashion. Make a sta-tement with your runners via leopard print panel detailing, which will draw all the attention and become the focal point of entire look.

With the animal print present, keep the rest of the ensemble simple and low key. Jeans with a polo shirt is a tried and tes-ted pairing – the complementary blue and deep red colour combination is what makes this marriage that bit more special. Layer up with a black bomber, another piece having a menswear mo-ment. It’s simple enough not to take the attention away from the leopard and ties the look together, with the black picking out the same colour in the trai-ners:

Look #1: Cool, Comfortable & Casual

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Look #2: Smart-CasualDress up your runners in a smart-casual ensemble that belies the athletic origins of the footwear. A pair of tailored trou-sers doesn’t just have to be the reserve of the suit – break them out of their formal confines and work them into some of your more dressed down looks.

A graphic roll neck makes for an on trend middle layer and bridges the gap between smart and casual perfectly. Throw a beige overcoat on top in pre-paration to face the elements; the co-lour touches on AW13’s appetite for all things camel and marries well with the prevalent navy tones.

Complete the look with a pair of New Balance 373s in a colour way that works well with the rest of the look and demons-trates the versatility of the retro runner:

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Look #3: Sneakers With A SuitThere was a time, not so long ago, when combining running shoes with a suit was considered one of the worst faux pas you could commit – possibly up there with socks and sandals. However, due to the constant evolution of men’s fashion this viewpoint has softened somewhat, especially when the styling is right and the overall silhouette is spot on.

A seasonally-appropriate, textured suit is a great way to subtly separate your tailoring from the crowd. Keep the cut on the slim side to give the overall aes-thetic the contemporary feel you need in order to pull off a progressive look such as this. Going sockless in spring/sum-mer would also help reinforce this fresh, modern approach.

Finally, bring a point of interest to your attire with a printed shirt in a pattern that is nothing short of bold. It will dress down the suit a little more, ensuring the runners feel right at home with this sartorial heavyweight:

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8 Street Styles Trends from the men's ss16 fashion weeks

Legwear in white (or shades of off-white) might not exactly be a game-changing develo-pment but while these

trews are a true summer classic, their popularity at the recent spring/summer 2016 shows verified they’re no longer a niche choice.

Milan proved to be the trend’s biggest proponent, with show attendees most-ly opting for cropped chinos and linen trousers in white, cream and ivory. Here, they were teamed with a tee or shirt and a blazer or denim jacket, with almost all looks elegant-ly punctuated by a pair of loafers.

The effect was one part Riviera refinement and another nonchalant urban style.

1. White Legwear

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In London – possibly in keeping with the dim natural light – shades of grey were the clear favourite, with sin-gle-breasted suits (sometimes featuring subtle checks) in stone, pewter and slate grey all spotted.In Milan, however, fashion month regu-lars went for brighter neutrals like cream and ivory, either adding a shirt in a similar hue for a head-to-toe tonal look or creating a well-executed contrast with a sky blue button-down.

Finally, upholding its reputation for one of the most colourful showcases of street style on the fashion week circuit, Pitti Uomo featured suits in rich neutrals like camel and ecru.

While checks – from Prince of Wales to tartan – came up trumps at the autumn/winter 2015 shows, this season saw tailoring devotees change tack. Whether in a bid to stave off the summer heat or simply switch up their suiting colours, fashion week’s most-watched opted for neutral hues for the SS16 shows.

2. Neutral Suiting

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3. Sun Hats

Like them or loathe them, when it comes to savvy summer dressing, hats aren’t just consi-dered finishing touches, they’re prac-tical sun guards.

They came in all shapes, sizes and co-lours for the spring/summer 2016 show circuit (predominantly fedoras and tril-bies), whether used as a debonair touch to head-to-toe tailoring or as a counter-

point to contem-

porary, urban looks that mixed tailored pieces

with casual separates. There were bucket hats and snapbacks too, but casual styles gave way to more classic headwear overall.

We even spotted a hat in Paris that could’ve doubled as a lampshade – best not to try this one at home, gents.

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Statement tailoring isn’t going anywhe-re anytime soon, it seems. While there were markedly more single-breasted suits than usual at London, the dou-ble-breasted (DB) jacket still made its presence felt, with street style stalwarts kitted out in everything from pastel linen designs to on-trend striped ver-sions.

But, overall, menswear’s finest seem to be losing their fondness for the full on double-breasted three-piece suit, swit-ching instead to a more flexible sarto-rial option: tailored separates. The DB blazer was one of the key choices outside spring/summer 2016 show venues, worn either in navy, light blue, red or neutrals with contrasting plain colour or patter-ned trousers.

4. Double-Breasted Blazers

And while it might seem on first glance a fairly conservative, restrictive choice, the men we shot proved it’s anything but – with some taking the traditional route of shirt and tie, and others swap-ping shirts for v- or scoop neck tees, and trousers for jeans.

If you’re looking for lessons in smart-ca- sual dressing, look no fur-ther.

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When fashion’s most formidable – from Tom Ford to Miuccia Prada – agree something’s going to make it big, then you’d better believe them. Having showed denim-filled collections in their droves for spring/summer 2015, designers quickly heralded the return of this utilitarian fabric – most notably in the form of the denim jacket.

5. Denim Jackets

Only recently a bad 1990s me-mory we’d all been trying to for-get, the denim jacket is well and truly back, with fashion buyers and press sporting white, light wash and raw jean jackets at the SS16 shows.

Some stuck close to this ou-terwear staple’s humble roots, keeping it casual with chinos and trainers, while others ele-vated the jacket from rugged to something much more refined, teaming it with a shirt, cropped trousers and monk-straps.

This is one easy-access trend you don’t want

to miss out on.

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Like the perfect hem pinroll or an ex-ceptionally well-knotted tie, choosing the ideal style of sunglasses is one of those subtle details that can take a look from unremarkable to outstanding in an instant.

This season, menswear’s most stylish chose coloured lens sunglasses to lend their looks an extra dimension; sometimes worn in a colour that provi-

6. Coloured Lens Sunglasses

ded a point of contrast to an understated ensemble, but more often worn in sha-des that offered tonal accents to the out-fit’s core palette.

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Thanks in part to Kanye and Jay Z’s big love for Paris, the French capital has taken to streetwear looks like a ‘Ye fan to a Yeezy trainer.

From longline white T-shirts to Nike sports socks to jet-black drop crotch trousers, the City of Light’s most stylish showed off some seriously

7. Stree-twear/Sports Luxe Looks

impressive monochrome getups. One of which was Ports 1961 creative director Milan Vukmirovic’s floral motif polo, cropped chino and mid-top trainer combination – a masterclass in high-low dressing.

Meanwhile, in London, monochrome is still making its presence felt. Stylist Chris Benns’ smart-casual take on mo-nochrome teamed a classic white shirt and rolled chinos with minimal

canvas trainers and a state-

ment Cal-vin Klein Jeans ‘CK’ sweatshirt

– effort-less at its best.

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There’s often very little ‘peacocking’ at men’s fashion weeks, but this season, what little statement-making there was came in the form of boldly coloured, pa-nelled, unusually shaped or luxuriously fabricated trainers.

Although minimal black or white lea-ther styles have by this stage consolida-ted their place in the men’s style pan-theon, bold and multi-coloured trainers are still burgeoning in menswear’s upper echelons.

8. Statement

Trainers

But, as this season’s shows proved, it’s only a matter of time before they’re con-sidered cutting edge style.

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New York Giants wide receiver Victor Cruz is best known for his skills on the football field (and his signature victory salsa dance), but it’s his off-duty style—which runs the gamut of high-end de-signers such as Givenchy to streetwear brands—that caught the eye of 3×1 denim impresario Scott Morrison. Soon after Cruz visited the label’s Soho bouti-que at the suggestion of his stylist, Ra-chel Johnson, he and Morrison hit it off instantly—and a collaboration was soon to follow.

“Victor took it a much bigger step than most people would and went to Japan,” said Morrison, who cohosted the launch

New York Giant Victor Cruz Puts His Japanese Denim Obsession Into Play

celebrity style

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event last week. That trip proved to be the inspiration behind the five-piece denim capsule, exclusively on Farfetch, which features a military-inspired pea

coat and mandarin collar shirt. “They have it all figured out over there,” said Cruz. “[Japan is] the worldwide leader in denim. From the weave to the was-hes, [I learned] the art of the technique and processes that go into one pair of jeans.” With a menswear collaboration under his belt, will Cruz be getting into women’s jeans next? “Everyone knows I love fashion, but I want to take it slow,” said Cruz, with his fiancée, Elaina Wat-ley, at his side. “He influences me when it comes to fashion,” said Watley. And given that part of the proceeds from the sale of the collection will go to the Victor Cruz Foundation, there are even more reasons to borrow your boyfriend’s jeans.

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