Seamless baby wrap with collar and raglan sleevesby suzie fry - www.soozs.blogspot.com

This garment is knitted in a single piece fromthe neck edge. If you haven’t knitted neckdown before you may find this a bitconfusing but rest assured if you follow thepattern it is very easy, and with no sewing itall happens very quickly!

Double increases along the raglan shoulderlines create the sleeve stitches, which arethen placed onto a holder until the body isfinished and then picked up and knitted in atube to form the sleeve. The resultinggarment has no bulky seams, which makes itlight and comfortable to wear.

I knitted the 0-6 month size sample picturedto the above right using 157gms, or 487metres of Pear Tree 4 ply (fingering) weightmerino wool held double. The model is avery large 7 month old and aside from thesleeve length, it fits very well. After knitting this sample I slightly increased the sleeve length.

I knitted the 12-24 month size pictured below right using two strands of cleckheaton 5 ply(sport) weight machine washable wool held double and used a tiny fraction over 300gms, or930 metres. It is a perfect fit on my smaller than average 27 month old son. I particularly likethis version with the alternate colour on thesleeves and collar.

At the end of the pattern I give some notes onaltering the pattern for different sizes and yarnweights.

Size

0-6 (6-12,12-24) months

Finished garment measuresChest width (not circumference) – 26 (30, 34)cmLength with collar turned – 29 (35, 39) cmSleeve length from neck edge – 24(31, 37)cmRaglan seam length neck to underarm – 15(18, 20) cm

Gauge

17 stitches and 24 rows to 10cm in stocking stitch

Materials

• 620 meters/200gms (930m/300gms, 1085m/350gms) 4ply yarn, or 310 (465, 545)metres of 10ply (aran/worsted) weight.

• 5.5mm (or size needed to obtain gauge) 100cm circular needle (or straights for the bodyplus DPNS for the sleeves)

• 4 stitch markers• Darning needle• Scrap yarn

Abbreviations

K – KnitP – PurlKFB – Knit into the front and back loop ofthe stitch – this is an increase stitchPM – Place markerK2Tog – Knit 2 stitches together – this is adecrease stitchSSK – Slip the next two stitches knit wiseand then knit them together – this is adecrease stitch

Instructions

Cast on 48 (54, 60) stitches.

Knit 4 (6, 6) rows of garter stitch (knit everyrow). This will form the collar.

Knit 4 (6, 6) rows of stocking stitch, startingwith a knit row (knit, purl, knit, purl). This willform the collar stand.

The next row is the first increase row anddivides the stitches between the fronts,sleeves and back. Slip all markers in placeon subsequent rows.

Next row –K1, KFB, K8 (9, 10), KFB [right front], PM,KFB, K2 (3, 4), KFB [right sleeve], PM,KFB, K16 (18, 20), KFB [back], PM,KFB, K2 (3, 4), KFB, [left sleeve] PM,KFB, K7 (8, 9), KFB, K2 [left front] – 58 (64, 70) stitches.

Next row – Purl.

Repeat these two rows by making KFB increases on all knit rows on

• the second stitch for the right front neck edge,• immediately before and after each stitch marker and• on the third last stitch to make the left front neck edge

increasing a total of 10 stitches each knit row, and purling alternate rows. Follow this pattern11 (14, 16) more times until you have 168 (204, 230) stitches. Finish with a purl row.

Next Row – K1, KFB, K33 (40, 45), remove marker and slip 28 (35, 40) sleeve stitches ontoscrap yarn, remove marker and cast on 4 stitches, K42 (50, 56), remove marker, place 28(35, 40) sleeve stitches on scrap yarn, remove marker and cast on 4 stitches, K32 (40, 44),KFB, K2. This creates 178 (215, 240) stitches – 28 (35, 40) for each sleeve and 122 (145,160) for the body.

Continue in stocking stitch with increases at neck edge on each knit row for 10 more rowsuntil you have 132 (155, 170) stitches and then straight until the back measures 28 (34, 38)cm from cast on edge, or longer if you prefer a tunic length. Knit 6 rows of garter stitch andcast off.

Picking up the sleeves

To make the sleeves you will use the stitchesyou reserved on the scrap yarn, plus eightmore you will pick up. Using your longcircular or DPNS and starting in the middle ofthe four stitch cast on you made in the bodyto form the underarm pick up two of the caston stitches. Next pick up two stitches fromthe space between the cast on stitches andthe stitches reserved on the scrap yarn.Place all the reserved stitches on the needleand then pick up four more stitches to bringyou back to your starting point. Don’t beconcerned if there is a bit of a gap where the sleeve joins the underarm – you can darn thisin later with the tail of your joined yarn.

You now have 36 (43, 48) stitches on your needles. Place a marker to indicate the point ofthe round where you started (in the middle of the underarm) and join the yarn. If using along circular, divide stitches in half and slide each set of stitches along the cable to alloweasy knitting (the ‘magic loop method’ is described here http://www.knitting-and.com/wiki/Magic_Loop). If you are using DPNS, divide your stitches between yourneedles.

Knit 8 regular rounds.

Decrease round - K1, K2Tog, knit to last 3 stitches, SSK, K1.

Continue this decrease pattern by knitting 4 (5, 5) regular rounds and 1 decrease round 4(5, 6) more times for a total of 5 (6, 7) times until you have 26 (31, 34) stitches.

Knit 2 (3, 4) rounds.

Starting with a purl round, knit 4 (6, 6) rounds of garter stitch.

Cast off loosely.

Finishing

Weave in ends. If required, darn an extra stitchat underarm joins to close any gaps.

The wrap can be held closed in a number ofways. For the smaller size I sewed large sizesnaps on the inner and outer flaps because thismakes dressing a slippery baby easier.

On the larger size I use snap fastening tape,which is also easy to do up, but holds a bitsteadier on more action oriented ages. I used

tape on the inside edge for added stability.

But you can also use ties which are verypractical too. To make each tie cast onthree stitches. Knit four rows of stockingstitch and then join the stitches to make i-cord. Make each tie 20-25cm long and jointo wrap with flat tab ends.

You can also add a button closure byadding a button hole to the front side justbelow the increase line. Knit to the last fivestitches of the row (for the left side). Slipthe next stitch knitwise, bring the yarn tothe front, slip another stitch knitwise andpass the first slipped stitch over the second (repeat for a larger hole). Pass the last stitchback from the right needle to the left, turn the work and bring the yarn to the front. Cast ontwo stitches (plus one extra for any extra stitches you slipped if you made a bigger hole) andturn your work again. Slip the first stitch knitwise and pass the last cast on stitch over it.Return the slipped stitch back to the left needle and knit remaining stitches.

Tips for altering size and shape

The sizing on this pattern is generous, so without altering any aspect of the pattern, it couldbe knitted at a tighter DK gauge and still be a useful garment. If in doubt knit a size largerthan required (babies always grow, and usually look good in knitwear on the larger side). Ifyou do this follow the stitch counts for a larger size, but select the appropriate lengthmeasurement.

Simple modifications are also easily made with the top down construction. Any number ofstitches can be added or subtracted from the neck edge cast on to make the neck opening adifferent size – just ensure the stitches are proportionally distributed between fronts, sleevesand back. The number of raglan increases made between the collar stand and when thestitches are slipped off for the sleeves determines the size of the body and sleeves. You cando less or more than the pattern to change the size.

Less decreases along the sleeves will give wider sleeve cuffs. If you want to alter the lengthof the sleeves change the number of rounds done before commencing decreases - lessrounds will shorten the sleeves, more will make the sleeves longer. If you want a lot of extra

length decrease the rate of stitch decreases.

To significantly upsize the pattern – either to make a larger size or to accommodate a muchsmaller gauge – you need to add in more cast on stitches and more raglan increases, aswell as increase body and sleeve length. You can work this out by calculating a schematicfrom your gauge count. Determine your desired measurement and divide by gauge to workout how many stitches you need at each point (cast on, raglan, sleeve and body width andsleeve length). Body length can be decided as you go.

If making for larger children remember that children’s rate of growth slows as they age, andthey tend to get taller and longer in the arms without increasing around the middle or neckas much. I tried the 12-24 month size on my six year old daughter and while the body andsleeve length were clearly inadequate, the body and neck width required very littlealteration. In other words, make most of your sizing changes by increasing the raglan lengtha little, slowing the rate of sleeve decrease and adding more rows before decreasing, andby lengthening the body.

I would appreciate your comments about the pattern – any errors you find, different yarnsused, sizing and fit of finished garments, modifications made. You can contact me atsoozs.com@gmail.com