Seam Finishes Seam Finishes Seam Finishes Seam Finishes GwishiriGwishiri

Apparel I Apparel I

Sewing Plain Seams• A seam is a line of stitching that

holds two layers of fabric together.• A plain seam is the standard seam

use for MOST SEWING. – 5/8 inch or 1.5 cm– This is used unless your PATTERN

states otherwise

Turning a Corner• To turn a corner in the middle of a

seam, stitch to within 5/8 inch of the and stop with the needle in the fabric.

• Lift the presser foot and turn the fabric on the needle.

• Lower the presser foot and continue stitching in the new direction.

Turning a Sharp Point• Stitch to the corner and leave the needle in

the fabric.• Raise the presser foot and turn the fabric

diagonally. • Lower the presser foot and make one or two

stitches by turning the handwheel. Leave the needle in the fabric, raise presser foot, and turn the fabric to complete the corner.

• Lower the presser foot and continue stitching.

Reinforcing a stitch • To reinforce a sharp corner or a

point use reinforcement stitches. • Stitch again for about one inch on

each side of the point. – This helps prevent fabric yarns from

pulling out of the seam after the fabric is trimmed and turned.

SEAM FINISHES• There are FIVE seam finishes we

will discuss today! – Pinked and Stitched – Machine Zigzagged Stitch– Hemmed (Turned and Stitch)– Serged– French

Pinked and Stitched• Pinked and stitched is using the pinking

shears and sewing machine. • You use it in case you do not have a

serger and it prevents raveling of fabrics. • Pinking does not prevent raveling entirely.

– For more protection, stitch ¼ inch from each edge before pinking.

– Press seams open.

Machine Zigzagged Stitch

• Fast and easy method for finishing fabrics that ravel

• Set zigzag setting for medium width and length

• Loosely woven or heavy fabrics should have a wider stitch

• Zigzag along the EDGE of each seam allowance (Usually)– One fabric, three lengths!

Hemmed Finish• This method forms a narrow, single-fold

hem along the edges of the seam allowances. – Also called a clean finish

• Use on lightweight to medium weight fabrics

• Turn the edges under ¼ inch and press. • Stitch close to the folded edge.

Serged Finish • This method is faster than a conventional sewing

machine• It trims seam allowance and keeps all threads from

ravelling. – Serge a 5/8 inch seam. – You can do all four sides, practice your corners. – Secure thread ends. Run your fingers along the thread

chain to smooth it out.• Tie the thread in a loose loop knot. Insert a pin through the

center of the loop so the pin tip is next to the fabric edge. • Pull the thread chain until the loop tightens into a knot at the

pin tip. Remove the pin and clip the thread tails.

Patterns• Patterns come with three parts

– Pattern Envelope• Pattern envelope includes who makes the

pattern, the styles of clothing you can make with the patterns, notions, material needed, and size chart

– Guide Sheet• Gives step-by-step information for cutting,

marking, and sewing – Pattern Pieces

• Marked with number and letter, name, and how the pattern pieces should be laid out

Pattern Symbols and Lines

• Certain symbols you should know when you see them– Cutting Line

• heavy line that outlines pattern pieces– Notch

• Diamond shaped symbols that extend beyond the cutting line, used for matching seams and joining garments

– Dart• Triangular or diamond shape indicated by dots and two

broken lines– Hemline

• Solid line that indicates the finished edge of the garment and depth of the hem

Pattern Symbols and Lines

– Adjustment Line• Double parallel lines that show where the pattern

pieces can be lengthened and shortened– Grain line

• Heavy, solid line with an arrow at each end, appears on all pattern pieces not placed on the fold

– Place on fold• Bracketed grain line that indicates the pattern

edge is to be placed exactly on the fold– Stitching line

• Broken line that indicates where to sew