139

SC #1 – A #0 - OU Campus Logincms.cerritos.edu/uploads/Cosmetology/SkinCarePacket.pdfAgents that contract organic tissue and reduce discharges or secretions: Comfrey root, Horse

  • Upload
    lelien

  • View
    215

  • Download
    2

Embed Size (px)

Citation preview

SC #1 – A #0 Cerritos College

Technology Division Cosmetology Department

Therapeutic, Calming and Soothing Values

When applied to the skin in a compress, spray, or mask the following have a therapeutic value.

Aromatic Substances having an agreeable odor and stimulating qualities: Nutmeg, Fennel, Mint, Ginger, Sassafras bark, Golden rod, Lavender, Rosemary, Sage,

Antiseptic Agents used for destroying or inhibiting bacteria (putrefactive or pathogenic): Cloves, Heather, Olive leaves, Sassafras bark, Peppermint, Eucalyptus, Lavender, Sandalwood, Thyme,

Astringent Agents that contract organic tissue and reduce discharges or secretions: Comfrey root, Horse chestnut, Lettuce, Nettle, Wild plum, Rhubarb, Sandalwood, Sumac, Strawberry leaves, Elm leaves, Lemon, Magnolia bark, Oak bark, Radish, Sage, Shepherd’s purse, Witch hazel, Alum root (extremely astringent)

Stimulating Substances that have stimulating qualities: Eucalyptus, Rosemary, Magnolia bark, Mistletoe, Wintergreen, Fennel, Thyme, Lavender, Spearmint, Sandalwood,

The following are substances that have a calming and soothing effect on the skin. Almond, Hollyhock, Balm, Lettuce, Whitepond lily root, Wild daisy Comfrey root, Camomile flowers, Pansy plant Jasmine Marjoram, Ginseng

Cleansing Substances known to have exceptional cleansing action: Lovage root, Lemongrass, Geranium leaves, Milfoil, Witch Hazel

Emollient Agents used externally to soothe and soften the skin: Almond, Comfrey root, Figs, Aloe, Hollyhock, Olive leaves

Skin Care Page 1 of 137

SC #1 – A #0

Healing Agents used for their healing qualities: Peppermint, Camomile flowers, Rosemary, Comfrey root, Pansy plant, Milfoil, Elder flowers, Lovage root, Aloe, Wild daisy

Moisturizing Substances used for their moisturizing qualities: Orange blossoms, Rose leaves, Rose hips, Camomile flowers, Rose petals, White willow bark

Skin Care Page 2 of 137

SC #2

CERRITOS COLLEGE TECHNOLOGY DIVISION

COSMETLOGY DEPARTMENT

ADVANCE SKIN CARE TECHNIQUE (Outline)

1. Client consultation

2. Cleanse (manually or with brush)

3. Analyze using the dermascope or wood lamp

4. Exfoliate (bio peel)

5. Disincrustation solution (baking soda)

6. Vacuum over disincrustation (steam optional)

7. Extraction (manual)

8. High Frequency with gauze (3 –5 ) mins.

10. Apply essential oil and use

11. Pressure point massage

12. Gel mask and essential oil (10) mins.

13. Mist Toner

14. Moisturize - distribute

15. Blot

Skin Care Page 3 of 137

REVISED 2/02 SC #3 - B.F. 1a CERRITOS COLLEGE

TECHNOLOGY DIVISION COSMETOLOGY DEPARTMENT

BROW SHAPE PROBLEMS

There are some common eyebrow problems that are left over from past fad/fashion designs. They can be corrected --- re-designed to fit the “classic Eyebrow shape” in balance and symmetry, shape and design. A. ROUND ARCH UNDER A PROPERLY SHAPED BROW B. ROUND EYEBROW (it follows the brow bone). “SURPRISED” LOOK! C. FLAT, EXPRESSIONLESS BROW ---no arch ---no personality D. ASTMMETRICAL BROWS ---one high and one low SIDE #1 SIDE #2 Tweeze the top of brow and pencil Tweeze underneath the brow and Shape in from underneath brow pencil in on top of brow

Skin Care Page 4 of 137

REVISED 2/02 SC #4 - B.F. 1b CERRITOS COLLEGE

TECHNOLOGY DIVISION COSMETOLOGY DEPARTMENT

EYEBROW

Treat brow as though it was made of corners and straight line then round corners. Start straight up from nose and inner corner of eye. Extends from nose to outer corner of eye.

Arches slightly to outside of pupil.

This area represents the eye area. Use Honey Cream or Shell Bisque foundation here.

SHADE SELECTION Soft stick for eyes. Dark Brown Medium Brown Fair Blonde

Skin Care Page 5 of 137

Revised 4/95 SC #5 - BF 2

Page 1

CERRITOS COLLEGE TECHNOLOGY DIVISION

COSMETOLOGY DEPARTMENT

INTRODUCTION TO MASSAGE

Massage is a method of treating the superficial parts of the body for health and beauty.

Each message movement is applied in a way to accomplish a particular purpose.

Massage is performed either by hand, mechanical, or electrical.

Stimulating or soothing effects may be produced depending on the method used.

The hand massage is the most common method. Electrical appliances used most commonly: therapeutic lamps, high-frequency.

TYPES OF MASSAGE MOVEMENTS 1. Effleurage (stroking) light, slow, rhythmic manner -

relaxing and soothing. 2. Petrissage (kneading) light or is lifted, squeezed,

rolled or pinched with light, firm pressure. 3. Tapotement or Percussion (tapping, slapping or

hacking) tapping tones muscles and imparts a healthy glow to the skin. Slapping or hacking mainly used on the back, shoulders and arms.

4. Friction (deep rubbing) requires pressure - mainly

used for scalp manipulation. 5. Vibration (shaking) trembling movement with the

hands or a vibrator. Very stimulating.

BENEFITS OF MASSAGE

1. Increase blood circulation.

2. Increase lymph circulation.

3. Stimulates glandular activity.

4. Tones muscles.

5. Soothes and rests nerves.

6. Makes skin soft and pliable.

7. Reduces fat cells.

8. Relieves congestion and pain.

CAUTIONS 1. Keep the skin well covered with cream when

giving a massage.

2. Massage toward the origin of the muscles.

3. Keep a light touch on the face and go lightly over the trachea.

4. Keep manipulations smooth and rhythmical.

5. Don't break connections with the patron after starting manipulations unless it is absolutely

necessary. When ending manipulations, gradually feather

fingers off of the patron.

6. Observe proper sanitary measures!!! This is the most important step when giving a

facial.

Skin Care Page 6 of 137

Revised 4/95 SC #5 - BF 2

Page 2

PLAIN FACIAL

Ask patron to remove all jewelry and put it into her purse.

1. Drape patron.

2. Recline patron.

3. Cleanse heavy make-up from the face, then cleanse entire face.

4. Remove cream.

5. Arch eyebrows (see instructions). 6. Apply massage cream to face and neck.

7. Have patron sit up and apply massage cream to shoulders.

8. Give shoulder manipulations 10 times each.

9. Recline patron.

10. Give face manipulations 10 times each ( remove all cream). 11. Apply pack or mask (optional) - see instructions.

12. Apply astringent or skin freshener.

13. Patron is ready for her make-up (see instructions).

EYEBROW ARCH

1. Prepare patron. If patron has not had a facial, seat her in a reclining chair and drape with a single

towel under her head. Always protect patron from touching the chair

by placing a towel under her head.

2. Discuss with patron suitable style for her face.

3. Cover her eyes with cotton pledgets moistened with astringent.

4. If facial has not been done previously, soften brows with hot towel (clean off all eyebrow pencil). 5. Tweezing

Stretch skin taunt with index finger and thumb or forefinger. Grasp hair individually with tweezers and pull with

a quick motion in the direction in which the hair grows.

6. Sponge tweezed area frequently with cotton moistened with an antiseptic lotion to prevent

infection.

7. Keep cotton saturated with alcohol around a finger to wipe off hairs that collect on tweezers.

8. Shape brows beneath the brow area, avoid pulling brows at the top (only remove stray hairs at top of brow). 9. Apply astringent or alcohol.

Skin Care Page 7 of 137

Revised 4/95 SC #5 - BF 2

Page 3

APPLICATION OF MASKS

Mint Julep: Use as is from the jar. Always use a spatula for removing. Apply over areas where blackheads are most common. Whole Egg: Separate yolk from white and beat lightly. Apply the yolk to face and neck and allow to stand about 10 minutes. Apply the white over the yolk and allow to stand another 10 minutes. Yolk is mild and soothing. White is an astringent and it firms. Use to firm skin and for sensitive skin. Yeast: Use 1 generous teaspoon, mix with enough water to make to make a paste. Use to firm skin. Can be mixed with peroxide (10%) to bleach skin. Honey: Apply a tablespoon to face and neck. Rotate fingers in a rocking motion over the skin until the honey becomes sticky (about 10 minutes). Do not continue when pulling becomes too strong. Use to remove blackheads. Mentholatum: Approx. 1 teaspoon to spread over face and neck. Apply warm steam towels if desired (use eye pads because of fumes). Remove and finish with a cold towel. Use for a sallow and sensitive skin.

MAKE-UP

1. After a facial: Apply skin freshener or astringent for (sensitive to dry) or an

astringent for (normal to oily). 2. Foundation: Apply in seven dots, neck, both sides of face, chin, cheeks, nose, and forehead.

3. Rouge: Cream rouge over cream foundation -- dry over powder or cake.

4. Eyebrow pencil: Light pencil strokes.

5. Eye Shadow: Blend upward and outward keeping depth of color according to shape of eyes and type of make-up.

6. Powder: Press firmly so it will adhere. Cover entire face, neck and eyelids. Brush off excess with cotton. Final stroke downward motion.

7. Mascara: Upper lashes heavier than lower. False lashes may be applied at this time.

8. Lipstick: Use small swab - draw outline with lips closed. Retrace outline with lips taunt over

teeth. Fill in lips, allow to set, blot with tissue. For better lasting, powder over first application and reapply - blot.

9. Final Touch: Bathe face lightly with skin lotion on cotton. Gives dewy appearance. Remove all traces of powder from lashes and

brows.

Skin Care Page 8 of 137

7/01

SC #6 - BF#3 CERRITOS COLLEGE

TECHNOLOGY DIVISION COSMETOLOGY DEPARTMENT

HOW TO LOCATE MOTOR POINTS

INDICATED ON THE CHART

#1 is midway between the chin and lips, and directly under lips. These motor points are close together.

#2 is between the nostrils and the lips. Here again the motor points are close together. Keep the electrodes away from the lips and the‘ edge of the nostrils at all times.

#3 is in a straight line across the opening of the nostrils is approximately ¾ of an inch below the center of the eye.

#4 is approximately ¾ of an inch from the outer edge of the eye.

#5 is on the forehead just above the outer edge of the eyebrow.

#6 is directly above the nose on the forehead between the eyebrows.

#7 is directly above number five at the edge of the hair, numbers six and seven are alternates, therefore, number five should be use if possible.

#8 is found on each side of the nostrils, the electrode handle should be held nearly parallel with the face.

#9 is under the chin as it makes a turn down to the throat.

#10 is on the jowl right in the indentation of the jawbone point the electrode handles down toward the chest.

#11 is approximately one inch below each earlobe directly on the jawbone.

#12 is in the cups of the shoulders. The electrodes may be moved a fraction to the right or left to insure a vigorous sensation.

#13 is on the neck directly above the collarbone. Make certain the electrodes do not contact the neck cords, as this would cause the head to jerk to the left or to the right.

#14 is in the center of the neck, straight down from the hinge of the jawbone. CAUTION: Do not place the electrodes on the larynx.

Skin Care Page 9 of 137

Revised 6/2001 SC #7 - BF#4 CERRITOS COLLEGE

TECHNOLOGY DIVISION COSMETOLOGY DEPARTMENT

EUROPEAN FACIAL

SPREADING AND CLEANSING ROUTINE

1. Apply cleanser on hands a. Apply to chest b. Throat c. Chin d. Cheek e. Nose f. Forehead g. Then wet hands

2. Spreading routine and cleansing routing a. Begin with circles on chest b. Up on the throat c. Over the chin d. Scissor the mouth e. Between the eyes then circling 3 times f. Temple friction 3 times g. Then back down

1) Scissoring mouth 2) Down chin the chest 3) Repeat spreading movement 3 times

3. Begin cleansing routine a. Throat

1) Roll patting 3 times across the throat b. Jaw

1) Slide across the jaw to cleanse jaw area 2) Using thumb and index finger

a) Pressure back side b) Forward pressure back slide forward all the way to ear using

light pressure c. Chin

1) Fingers on chin use thumb to circle around chin, side of mouth and upper lip

d. Outside cheek area 1) Turn the hand and stroke from jaw to outside cheek area (6

times) a) Slide over forehead and repeat on other side of cheek

e. Inside cheek 1) Large circles on cheeks then slide to nose

Skin Care Page 10 of 137

Revised 6/2001 SC #7 - BF#4 f. Nose

1) Cross thumbs across the nose and lift the fingers off the face 2) Cleanse side of nose, top of nose with small circles using the

thumbs 3) Pause between eyebrows and cleanse for a few seconds 4) Then up to hairline then put fingers on forehead

g. Forehead 1) Finger friction across the forehead to the temporal 2) Friction on temporal 3 times 3) Press at temporal and off

COMPLETION OF FIRST CLEANSING

4. Rinse the cleanser using sponges or towel with water 5. Begin SECOND cleansing routine as the first time

Skin Care Page 11 of 137

Revised 1/01

SC #8 – BF #5 Cerritos College

Technology Division Cosmetology Department

MASSAGE TECHNIQUE

1. Spreading movements from shoulder, up on throat, over chin, scissor mouth, between eyes, circle 1-2-3, temple 1-2-3, back to shoulder. Repeat 3 times. 2. 7 minutes shoulder, neck, upper arms, chest, and décolleté massage with palmar petrissage. Finish at temples. 3. Right hand circle down from temple to right shoulder, across chest to left shoulder and up on side back of neck to left side, 6 times. Repeat twice each hand. 4. Roll – patting across throat. 3 times. 5. Jaw pulls with massage of ears. 6 times. 6. Thumb lifts at side of mouth 6 times. 7. Full cheek lifts with palmar surface. 6 times. 8. Butterfly. 3 times. 9. Circle eyes. Acupressure press under inside brow line. 6 times. 10. “S” movements under eye towards nose and small circles back. Repeat until warm. 11. Temple frictions. 9 times. 12. “S” movements across forehead. 3 times. 13. Heel press and lifts with alternate hand on forehead. 3 times. 14. Say “Good-bye” to the body with repeat spreading movements. 3 times, slow and rhythmic. 15. Grand butterfly. 16. Tapotement on the face. 17. Temple frictions. Pressure and lift off, slowly, and laterally.

Skin Care Page 12 of 137

Revised 5/93

SC #9 - BF#7 Cerritos College

Technology Division Cosmetology Department

MASSAGE AND SKIN Open-book test Name______________________________ 1. Name the three methods of massage application: a)_________________________ b) _________________________________ c) ____________________________ 2. What are the three key words one should always remember when doing massage manipulations. Define each one: a) ____________________________________ ____________________________________ b) ____________________________________ ____________________________________ c) ____________________________________ ____________________________________ 3. List at least 5 areas that a cosmetologist can massage: a) ________________ b)___________________ c)_____________________ d)________________ e) ___________________ 4. List at least 4 conditions when one would never massage: a) ________________, b) ________________, c) ____________________, d) ____________________. 5. List at least 3 qualifications the cosmetologist must possess:

a)_________________ , b)______________________c) _________________ d) ____________________

6. What is the correct direction of massage movements? __________________ ______________________________________________________________ Why? _________________________________________________________

Skin Care Page 13 of 137

Revised 5/93

SC #9 - BF#7 7. Identify the 5 basic massage manipulations and tell a little about each one: a) _________________ _____________________________ b) _________________ _____________________________ c) _________________ _____________________________ d) _________________ _____________________________ e) _________________ _____________________________ 8. List at least 5 benefits one can receive from massage treatments: a) _________________________________________________ b) _________________________________________________ c) _________________________________________________ d) _________________________________________________ e) _________________________________________________ 9. List the two main layers of the skin: a) _______________ , b) _______________ Name a third one that can or cannot be referred to as an actual layer: c) _______________________________ 10. Of the three, which layer is considered to be? a) The middle layer – ________________ b) The top layer - __________________ c) The fatty layer – _________________ 11. What is the function or purpose of the epidermis layer? _____________________ _____________________________

12. Skin is the largest ___________ of the body 13. Describe a healthy skin: ____________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________ 14. What is keratin? ___________________ 15. List the 5 elements that keratin contains: a)_______, b) _______, c) ______ d)_______, e) _________ 16. List the 8 various structures found within the dermis layer of the skin: a) __________________ e) _________________ b) __________________ f) _________________ c) __________________ g) _________________ d) ___________________ h) _________________ Give the purpose of at least 4 of those: __________________________________ __________________________________________________________________ __________________________________________________________________

Skin Care Page 14 of 137

Revised 5/93

SC #9 - BF#7 17. What is melanin? ___________________________________________________ 18. How much of the total blood supply is contained within the skin? _____________ 19. List the six principal functions of the skin: a)_____________________ b) ____________________ c _________________

d) ____________________ 20. What is a characteristic of aged skin? ____________________________ 21. What is the technical term for the following? a) sweat gland_________________ b) oil gland _____________________ c) oily substance in skin _________________________ 22. List the 3 types of nerve endings found in the skin and briefly describe the function of each: a) ____________________ ___________________________________

b) _____________________ ____________________________________ c) _____________________ ____________________________________ 23. List the 5 basic types of facial skin and briefly describe each: a) _____________________ ____________________________________ b) _____________________ ____________________________________ c) _____________________ ____________________________________ d) _____________________ ____________________________________ e) _____________________ ____________________________________ 24. List at least 3 internal and 3 external factors which affect skin: External _________________ __________________ _________________ Internal _________________ __________________ _________________

Skin Care Page 15 of 137

SC #11 - BF #8

Cerritos College

Technology Division Cosmetology Department

Steamer

1. Where does the water have to be filled to before starting the steamer? 2. What kind of water must be used with the steamer? 3. What happens to the steamer if you use regular water? 4. How often must you change the water in the steamer bowl? 5. When stating the steamer which direction should you face the steamer head and why? 6. When would you use the steamer in a facial? 7. Approximately how long do you use the steamer during a facial? 8. What are the benefits of using steam in a facial?

Skin Care Page 16 of 137

Revised 5/93 SC #12 - BM 1

CERRITOS COLLEGE TECHNOLOGY DIVISION

COSMETOLOGY DEPARTMENT

INFORMATION SHEET USE FOR ARTICLES IN MAKE-UP TRAY

I. Each item in the make-up tray has a specific use:

A. Cleansing Cream

1. To remove soil and make-up

B. Nite Emollient

1. Used as a lubricant and as a cushion for fingers during massage (skin must not get dry)

C. Astringent (Witch Hazel) 1. To tighten and firm the skin, close the pores 2. Removes remaining cream or oil

D. Powder Base

1. Used to cover blemishes. 2. Used to protect (against sun and wind burn) 3. Is a base for poser or make-up 4. Adds color 5. May be used to correct the shape of the face

E. Eye Shadow

1. Brings out the color in the eyes (gives depth) 2. Makes the eye look deeper (if eyes are deep set, never use on the lids)

F. Cream Rouge

1. Adds color to the cheeks 2. Used to correct the shape of the face

G. Eyebrow Pencil

1. Used to color the brows 2. Used to correct the shape of the brow 3. Used to fill in where there is no brow

H. Powder

1. Gives make-up a mat finish 2. Sets the make-up 3. Used for color

I. Mascara

1. Used to darken the eyelashes 2. May be used to correct the shape of the eyes

J. Lipstick

1. Adds color to the lips 2. May be used to correct the shape of the mouth 3. Protects the lips

Skin Care Page 17 of 137

7/01

SC #13 - M#2 Cerritos College

Technology Division Cosmetology Department

METHODS TO TEST SHADES OF COSMETICS 1. Powder base: Blend a little along jaw line to blend in with neck. 2. Rouge: Pinch the skin on the back of the hand near the wrist until a reddish color appears. Rub a bit of rouge along side of the natural color, blend it in will and compare the two shades. The rouge that matches the tinge of the clients owns blood is the correct shade to use. 3. Powder: Use a bit of cotton, pat some powder on the forearm just above the wrist; rub it around lightly a few times and note how the powder blends into the surrounding skin. When the shade and weight of the powder is just right, the powder blends into the surrounding skin with a flattering soft dull finish. 4. Lipstick: Turn back the relaxed lower lip until the color of the inner mucous membrane can be seen. Lipstick that just blends with or tones into the color of this membrane will give the most natural effect. 5. Eyebrow pencils: Browns and grays can be used on types of blonde, black and brown hair. As black often looks harsh, blend it with brown or gray, the reddish brown pencil should be used on red, golden-brown or warm brown hair clients. 6. Mascara: Mascara is selected by the shades of the hair, according to the following general observations: a. Black is good for all black lashes. b. Blue is effective on black lashes if the eyes are blue or gray. c. Brown is good on golden, reddish or brown lashes. d. Green is fascinating on blonde, brown or red-haired types if the eyes are green, gray or hazel. 7. Eye shadow: More than one color is generally used sparingly. Blends and variations depend upon complexion and ensemble. a. Gray eyes may use gray, blue or green tones. b. Blue eyes may use gray, blue or violet tones. c. Hazel eyes may use gray, green brown, rust or gold d. Brown eyes may use green, brown rust, or gold. Some times, depending on the color key, some shades of violet can be used.

Skin Care Page 18 of 137

SC # 14 - C.M.1

CERRITOS COLLEGE TECHNOLOGY DIVISION

COSMETOLOGY DEPARTMENT

PURPOSE OF MAKEUP

Makeup is applied for psychological reasons only: A. The Self Image – How we perceive ourselves. B. The Reflective Image – How we perceive others see us.

MAKEUP

Makeup is a decorative product, it does nothing to promote or maintain skin health: its sole purpose and function is to alter – enhance, define and decorate the person’s physical image. It is applied to the surface of the skin only. Makeup is applied for psychological reasons only – to attract the opposite sex, to create a well groomed look, to define, accentuate and enhance one’s features as well as to disguise blemishes and some of the signs of aging (discoloration). The motive is always psychological; the impression to be made on others and our self image. How we look to ourselves and others will determine to a great degree how we act, react and interact in society. The sole purpose of makeup, again, is to alter the individual’s appearance in a positive manner. Makeup preparations are basically foundations, powders, rouges. Blushers, eye shadow, mascara, eyebrow pencils and lip coloring in various forms. Their individual and / or combined use is determined by the image the person desires. It is therefore of prime importance to first ascertain what the client’s psyche will or will not accept in the way of makeup enhancement and fashion. This is determined by a guided conversation interview prior to doing the actual consulting or makeup applications. DEFINITION OF A COSMETIC BY THE FOOD AND DRUG ADMINISTRATION ( F.D.A.) “(1) Articles intended to be rubbed, poured, sprinkled, or sprayed on. introduced to or otherwise applied to the human body or any part thereof for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness, or altering the appearance, and (2) Articles intended for use as a component of any such articles, except that such term shall not include soap.”

Skin Care Page 19 of 137

Revised 4/06 SC #15 - CM1a

Cerritos College Technology Division

Cosmetology Department

WHY MAKEUP

Makeup is used to control the negative effects of harsh light reflecting form shiny skin. It also helps to minimize skin discolorations and blemishes. The subject should not appear to be made up, however: the makeup, hair and clothing all need to be balanced. It enhances the natural features Protects the skin from the environment, e.g. pollution, the sun Good for your skin Can make mature skin more youthful looking Creates a moisture barrier When you look good you feel good

Women are judged by their appearance, and in today’s job market having a clean, professional image is even more crucial then having the right credentials and being qualified in their field. Cosmetics have everything to do with creating an image because makeup has always been considered a decorative product. Makeup allows us to create a positive self image: How we perceive ourselves, and a reflective image: How we perceive others see us. We all grew up with the saying “real beauty comes from within” and makeup can help bring out that inner beauty and create self-confidence. Think in terms of creating a look that is reflective of each individual’s personal characteristics by accentuating their best features. Makeup preparation consist of foundations, powders, blushes, eyeshadows, mascara, eyebrow and eyeliner pencils and lip colors in a variety of forms. In portraiture, the essence of the person is captured on film. The portrait photo has as its goal to set apart the persona of the individual, to give a long lasting, timeless image which will be treasured. You set the tone of the shoot with your attitude and you contribute to the clients feeling relaxed and confident, as well as improving their overall appearance. Your goal is to determine the needs of your client/talent in regard to the situation or style of shoot. Do you want a clean documentary look or a High fashion model look? To determine the look desired you need to do your homework: What is the client / Photographer / Advertising Co. / Director looking for? Who is the talent or character? What is the age? Their lifestyle? Environment? Peer group?

Skin Care Page 20 of 137

Revised 7-06

SC #16 - CM#1b Cerritos College

Technology Division Cosmetology Department

Corrective Make-up

Contouring: You will need dark cosmetics to make areas of your face appear smaller. You can use: Dark makeup foundation Brown pencil Dark blusher (browns, plums or wine) Dark cream shadows Dark powdered eye shadow (browns, and taupes) Highlighting: You will need light colors to give the illusion of largeness. You can use: Light makeup foundation White, pink or white pearl pencil Light blusher (pinks, coral, oranges) Any light shade of eye shadow (whites, golds, beiges, pinks) Highlight colors can be either matte (nonshiny) or pearlized (iridescent). Pearlized cosmetics act as a double highlighter – both the lightness and the iridescence make areas appear more prominent. This double highlighting effect is very effective in evening makeups. Now, taking into consideration your natural face shape, follow the step-by-step instructions to contour and highlight your face to create the illusion of an oval-shaped face. In the illustrations, the contoured areas are represented by dark shading. Broken lines indicate areas to be highlighted. Round face. To minimize the width of the face, use either a dark pencil, dark foundation, etc., to create a shadow on the sides of the forehead. Carry this shadow down the sides of the face and around the jawline. Blend well with a sponge

Skin Care Page 21 of 137

Revised 7-06

SC #16 - CM#1b The Forehead: If you have a low forehead, you will highlight this area to make the area between the eyebrows and the hairline appear larger. If you have a high forehead, you will shade the area to minimize the space between the hairline and the eyebrows. Low forehead, corrected High forehead, corrected The Chin and Jaw: Now look at your chin. Is it a prominent or pointed chin? Then contour the tip of the chin. If the sides of the chin fall inside the oval, highlight the sides of the chin.

Skin Care Page 22 of 137

Revised 7-06

SC #16 - CM#1b The Face: Triangle face. Highlight the temples at the hairline and extend down to the cheekbones to increase the width of the forehead. Contour the lower part of the face under the chin and jawline. Blend well with a sponge Inverted-triangle face. Darken the areas on both sides of the forehead, down to the top of the ear close to the hairline. Highlight down the sides of the jaw. Blend well with a sponge.

Skin Care Page 23 of 137

Revised 7-06

SC #16 - CM#1b Oblong face. To shorten the length of the oblong face, a dark contour is applied both on the forehead along the hairline and at the tip of the chin. Blend well with a sponge. Square face. Shade the corners of the forehead, the cheeks, and the jawline to soften the straight lines of the face. Blend with a sponge or contour brush to give a rounded look to the hairline. Diamond face. Highlight the sides of the forehead and at the jawline. Blend well with a sponge.

Skin Care Page 24 of 137

SC #17 - CM #1C

CERRITOS COLLEGE TECHNOLOGY DIVISION

COSMETOLOGY DEPARTMENT

THREE STEPS TO FINDING YOUR CLIENT’S SEASON Finding what seasons you or your client belongs to are based on skin tone, natural color of eyes and hair. Below you’ll find three suggestions to consider before making your final analysis. 1. SKINTONE: The most important factor

Warm or cool? To find out, inspect the inner side of your client’s wrist, not facial skin. Preferably inspect using natural daylight. Place your client’s wrist on a WHITE plain sheet of paper. The underlying Yellow/Gold or Blue tone should be apparent. If your still unsure of your clients season Yellow or Golden undertones generally indicate the seasons of spring or autumn. Blue or Bluish-pink undertones are identified with the season of summer or winter. Sallow undertones (Yellowish) should not be mistaken for golden undertones of spring and autumns. Surprisingly sallowness can be present in summer as well as winter types, especially in a maturing skin. C A U T I O N! You can be misled by broken capillaries, tanning, freckle, redness, blue veins, etc. Be sure you are evaluating the skin’s true undertones. Do not be disturbed if you are still unsure of your client’s season remember natural hair and eye color are an important factor in this determination. There is a draping process to help make your final analysis. When dominant color undertones as been determined continue with your seasonal analysis.

2. HAIRCOLOR:

Talk to your client asks them, at the age of 9 or 10 what was their natural haircolor. Was the hair brighter, lighter, redder, blonder? Even through hair can be changed chemically of dull with age the seasonal type remains consistent through life. No matter what alterations have been made. If the client’s haircolor is natural study the highlights. Red or Gold highlights indicate a WARM season. If the highlights are Blue or Ash tones this indicates a COOL season. If the client has gray hair it to show seasonal tendencies. Weather it be a warm metallic or golden cast or a cool salt n pepper. On the other hand if the hair is tinted or bleach and you did the previous color you should look up your record card and check what the original color was. If this is impossible then you will have to totally depend on the client description.

Skin Care Page 25 of 137

SC #17 - CM #1C

Compare your findings against the skin tone analysis you did earlier. There should be harmony cool tone hair with cool tone skin, and warm tone hair with warm tone skin.

3. EYES: To confirm your analysis

Eyes (like hair) are composed of fragments of color. Study your client’s eye under a strong light notice all the colors including flecks and rings. One color should be dominant this color should be used to determine seasonal analysis. N O T E: Contact lenses should be removed before analyzing eye color.

Now with the information you just collected compare your notes with the seasonal charts to conclude your analysis. REMEMBER everyone has a season there are four possibilities, you may only determine ONE as the season for your client. Like most things the more you practice, this to will become easier.

THE COLOR DRAPING TECHNIQUE It’s not uncommon to find some clients doubtful about their seasonal analysis, some clients are so accustom to wearing certain colors and don’t want to believe that they may have been wearing colors uncomplimentary to them. Prove it to them use this color draping technique, it’s designed to immediately show how the current colors of their personal palette makes a difference in their appearance. This technique is designed to immediately show the client how the current colors of the personal palette do make a difference in your client’s appearance. Before you begin you’ll need to organize a few items an assortment of solid-colored fabrics that match the colors in each personal palette. (Winter, Autumn, Spring and Summer). Now you are ready to begin. With your client in front of a mirror (in natural daylight if possible), drape one color at a time around her or his face. There will be a instantaneous and dramatic difference as you try different colors. The right colors make the skin glow, the eyes sparkle, the hair shine. The wrong colors have the opposite effect. The most flattering colors will invariable be part of the personal palette. This is an exciting moment of discovery for your client, and it confirms not only your expertise as a color theory specialist, but as a haircoloring expert and make up artist as well.

Skin Care Page 26 of 137

SC #17 - CM #1C

THE CHARACTERISTICS OF SPRING

Skin Hair Eyes

Yellow undertone (always)

Strawberry Blonde

Often Aqua, Clear Blue

Ivory or Beige Light Red, Auburn Green, Golden Brown

Peachy with fresh pink tone Blonde,(from flaxen to Topaz

Often fair To golden honey) A starburst pattern around pupil

Light golden-brown freckles Brown with red highlights

Rarely, Dark Brown

Gray hair is often drape

Golden Gray

Recommend hair coloring

HAIRCOLOR AND MAKE UP GUIDE FOR SPRING

Spring should try to maintain their hair as close to their natural color as possible, especially since their hair tends to darken with age. Springs can take hair shades lighter or darker in their range but should not be allowed to go brassy.

Recommended Hair Colors

Recommended Foundations

Recommended Eye Shadow

Recommended Blusher

Recommended Lip Sticks

Warm, Golden or

Reddish tones, Yellow-Blonde, Flaxen Golden

Blonde Strawberry

Blonde tones, Golden Brown

Red Brown Avoid partial Gray cover completely may produce soft natural looking

highlights.

Light skin:

Yellow-tone Beige

Dark skin:

Gold-toned Beige

Medium skin: Ivory or Peach

Soft Apricot Green, Aqua Soft Brown

Peaches, Corals,

Peach-Pinks

Coral, Peach Warm Peach-Pink Clear Light Red

Skin Care Page 27 of 137

SC #17 - CM #1C

THE CHARACTRISTICS OF SUMMER

SKIN HAIR EYES

Blue undertones (always)

Translucent Rosy-Pink Light,

Neutral Beige Beige with Pink tinge

Can be quite Pale

Blondes from

Platinum, Light Ash to Medium

Ash Brown Smokey Brown Dark Brown (taupe cast)

Gray has a Blue cast

Gray seldom has highlights

Clear Blues: Sky blue Aqua,

Gray-Blue

Very common: Blue with White flecks

Also:

Green with White flecks, Hazel, Soft Pale Gray

Soft Brown or Rose Brown

HAIRCOLOR AND MAKE UP GUIDE FOR SUMMER

Summers look wonderful with frosted or highlighted hair. If the sun has reddened a summer’s hair, use an ash brown shade to tone it down.

Recommended Hair color

Recommended Foundation

Recommended Blusher

Recommended Eye shadow

Recommended Lipsticks

Cool, Ash tones

Rose tone Beige

Light Pink

Blue-Gray

ale Pink

Ash Blonde

Pink Beige

Rose Beige

Rose/Mauve

Softened Plum

Ash Brunette Rachel Beige Blue-Pink Soft Brown Light Burgundy

Gray : add Cool Highlights

Light Plum Soft Gray Blue- Pink

Highlights or Streaking use cool tones

AVOID Red

Skin Care Page 28 of 137

SC #17 - CM #1C

THE CHARACTERISTICS OF AUTUMN

SKIN HAIR EYES

Yellow undertones (always)

Redheads from Carrot-top To Strawberry Blondes

Often intensely colored

Pure Ivory, Light to Dark Peach,

Reddish Brown Blues: Peacock (with aqua tones)

Light to Dark Peach Golden Blonde to Golden Brown

Jade green (clear)

Fair to Tawny or Coppery Deep Chestnut to Auburn Deep to pale green with gold, brown or citron flecks

Golden Black Very Rarely: Charcoal or Black

Yellow- Brown

Fair Autumns often have freckles Gray hair dulls, but may be Mixed with warm highlights

Golden Brown, Dark Brown

Sometimes, a ruddy Florid cast

Hazel; (brown/green/gold mix

HAIRCOLOR AND MAKE UP GUIDE FOR AUTUM

Autumns look best when they maintain the natural red or warm tones in their hair. Graying Autums should seriously consider hair coloring. Recommended Hair color

Recommended Foundation

Recommended Blusher

Recommended Eye shadow

Recommended Lip stick

Auburn

Yellow-tone (light skin)

Oranges (all)

Green (olive)

Peach, Corral

Golden Brown Copper-tone (dark skin)

Gold tones Brown, Copper Orange-red

Golden Blonde Ivory Tawny Peaches Soft Turquoise Brownish-red

Red Brown Light to Dark Peaches

Red, Strawberry Avoid: cool tones highlights

Cover Gray

Skin Care Page 29 of 137

SC #17 - CM #1C

THE CHARACTERISTICS OF WINTER

SKIN

HAIR EYES

Blue undertones (always)

Usually Dark

Almost always Dark

Typically olive-light,

medium, dark.

Frequently, Black (with blue cast)

Black or Dark Brown

Milky white (colorless) Frequently, Medium to Dark Brown

Brown with reddish cast

Beige with slight rare sallow ness Possible Red highlights in Brown

hair

Hazel (gray/green/blue mix

White slight red-rose undertones (rare)

Blonde hair: Quite RARE Blue: Dark or medium with white flecks

Black

Gray-often premature: Green: with white flecks

Freckles-dark brown

Frequently salt-n-pepper Gray, combined with Blue or Green

Silver Gray snow white

HAIRCOLOR AND MAKE UP FOR WINTER

Winters look best in their natural hair color (or a shade lighter) when they Gray, subtle highlights can enhance dark hair, but be careful not to add too much red.

Recommended Hair color

Recommended Foundation

Recommended Blusher

Recommended Eye shadow

Recommended Lip stick

Cool Ash tones

Ash Brown Ash Blonde

Rose tone Beiges (medium to dark)

Rosy Red

Light Gray/Silver

True Red

Blue-black Burgundy

Pink Beige Blue-Pink Light Plum/Mauve Blue Red

Deep reds

Honey Beige Burgundy Blue-Gray Burgundy

Subtle highlights

Rachel Beige Plum Ash Green/Blues Plum

Gray add cool

highlights

AVOID:

Bleaching or Streaking or strong

Red tones

Skin Care Page 30 of 137

Revised 6/96

SC #18 - CM#7 Cerritos College

Technology Division Cosmetology Department

INFORMATION SHEET

YOUR KITCHEN – YOUR FRIEND

SKIN: 1. POTATOES – for pimples, cut surface, allow moisture to form, rub on skin and allow to dry, rinse with cool water.

7. CIDER VINEGAR – To soothe irritated skin. Also, good as an astringent. (Rinse off with cool water)

2. HONEY (oily skin) – Smooth plain honey on the skin. Pat gently to cleanse the pores.

8. AVOCADO – Very ripe-mash thoroughly, use as cream for dry skin.

3. HONEY mixed with OATMEAL – to make a paste, use as a scrub.

9. CANNED MILK – Soothes irritated skin Good for sunburns.

4. CORN MEAL – Mixed with cold cream stimulating cleanser for blackheads.

10. COARSE SALT – Mixed with lard – stimulating cleanser for blackheads

5. EGG WHITE – For quick pick-up, for tired lines around the eyes.

11. MAYONNAISE – Used for dry skin.

6. ICE CUBE – Wrap in cloth, use as an astringent.

HAIR: BATH: 1. WHOLE EGG SHAMPOO – gently beat an egg. Use as a shampoo, rinse with very cool water.

1. HANDFUL of OATMEAL – Tie in pouch made with cheese cloth. Drop in bath tub. (Like a mild bath)

2. CORN MEAL and SALT equal parts – use as a dry shampoo. Rub into scalp and brush out thoroughly.

2. GLYCERIN and WITCH HAZEL Equal parts, makes an excellent body lotion. Good moisturizer.

3. MAYONNAISE – for dry hair, not good for fine hair

3. SALT – Rub to stimulate skin.

4. TOMATO JUICE – to remove odor

4. POWDERED MILK – in bath.

5. VINEGAR – (cider) for rinse – good conditioner for hair and to remove soap scum from hair

5. CORN STARCH – in bath

EYES: HANDS: 1. FRESH CUCUMBER SLICES – Place over eyes, rest for 10 minutes

1. DRY OATMEAL – in canister, so hands can be plunged into, to soothe and soften

2. WARM TEA BAGS – for puffy, red eyes.

2. LEMON – cut edges, to remove stain.

3. GRAPEFRUIT HULLS – to soften hands.

4. POTATOES – to remove odors

Skin Care Page 31 of 137

Revised 1/2001 SC #19

CERRITOS COLLEGE COSMETOLOGY DEPARTMENT MASSAGE TECHNIQUE

1. Spreading movements from shoulder, up on throat, over chin, scissor mouth, between eyes, circle 1-2-3, temple 1-2-3, and back to shoulder. Repeat 3 times.

2. 7 minutes shoulder, neck, upper arms, chest, and décolleté massage with palmar petrissage. Finish at temples.

3. Right hand circle down from temple to right shoulder, across chest to left shoulder and up on side back of neck to left side jaw, 6 times. Repeat twice each hand.

4. Roll-patting across throat. 3 times.

5. Jaw pulls with massage of ears. 6 times.

6. Thumb lifts at side of mouth. 6 times.

7. Full cheek lifts with palmar surface. 6 times.

8. Butterfly. 3 times.

9. Circle eyes. Acupressure press under inside browline. 6 times.

10. “S” movements under eye towards nose and small circles back. Repeat until warm.

11. Temple frictions. 9 times.

12. “S” movements across forehead. 3 times.

13. Heel press and lifts with alternate hand on forehead. 3 times.

14. Say “Good-bye” to the body with repeat spreading movements. 3 times, slow and rhythmic.

15. Grand butterfly.

16. Tapotement on the face.

17. Temple frictions. Pressure and left off, slowly, and laterally.

Skin Care Page 32 of 137

SC #20

Cerritos College Technology Division

Cosmetology Department

Determining Your Facial Shape

Have you ever asked yourself, “What shape face do I have?” Here are a few guides to help you find out. Take a ruler and stand in front of the mirror. Have a towel wrapped around your head just at the hairline. Measure the distance from your hair line to the tip of your chin, straight down over your nose. Draw a vertical line on the paper this length. Now measure the width of your forehead at its widest point. Draw a line at right angles to the length line, and the proper distance down from the hairline. Measure the width across your cheek – bones, and draw a similar line. Do likewise with the width across your jaw. Now draw a line

around the outside of these four guidelines. This is the shape of your face. Oval: The “Ideal”. The forehead is slightly wider than the chin. The chin. The cheekbone width is approximately two-thirds the length of the face (from hairline to chin). The cheeks and jaw line taper gently off a curved chin. Oblong: The face is long and narrow. Oblongs do not vary too much from perfect – oval measurements in width and length of face. The difference comes in the long, thin side-planes of the cheeks, the angular jaw, and the straight or possibly pointed chin. Round: Consider the form of a circle, large or small. The face is not too much longer than it is broad. The greatest width is at the cheeks, which sustain their fullness right down to the jawbone, where the face rounds off to a short full chin. This might be the result of being overweight. Square: A square is a circle with corners. The face is almost as broad as it is long. The widths (although slightly wider at the cheekbone) differ very little from each other. It is distinguished from the round type by a straight hairline and the fact that the generous jawbones have an angular form rather than a rounded one, jutting rather decidedly to a square-bottomed chin.

Skin Care Page 33 of 137

SC #20

Triangle: A full face, the triangle is sometimes called pear shaped. The greatest width comes in the lower section of the face. The taper is upward, slightly narrower at the cheek, narrowest at the forehead. Heart shaped: This means just what it says; the taper is downwards. The greatest width is at the forehead. The jaw line is narrow and the chin is small. Diamond: The characteristic of the diamond is extra width at the cheek bones (more than two-thirds the length of the face). Forehead and chin narrow off; hairline and jaw measurements are approximately the same. The extra-wide cheekbones may be definitely pointed in appearance, or may extend into a broad, full fleshed cheek. Now that you know about your facial shape, apply this information to determine the shape of your patron’s. Use this information to create stylized make-up just for her, and design hairstyles to enhance her beauty.

Skin Care Page 34 of 137

SC #21

Cerritos College Technology Division

Cosmetology Department

Disincrustation

Negatively charged alkaline solutions is placed on skin’s surface May be used without solution as chemical reaction changes fluid within to alkaline. Solution provides additional emulsification to surface follicle opening. Client holds positive/esthetician holds negative electrode. Creates a chemical reaction known as saponification.

Skin Care Page 35 of 137

SC # 22

Cerritos College Technology Division

Cosmetology Department

DO’S AND DON’TS IN DIPILATORY WAXING

1. DO NOT wax area with cuts, abrasions, inflammations or open wounds. 2. DO NOT wax over active Herpes virus. 3. DO NOT wax areas that have Telangiectiasia. 4. DO NOT wax during the use of Retin A, one month before or three months after. 5. DO NOT wax while taking Accutane, or applying any Alpha Hydroxy Acid or Glycolic Acid to the skin. 6. Waxing is not recommended for people who have Diabetes. 7. Avoid direct exposure to ultra-violet rays from the sun before or after waxing. 8. Female clients may be more sensitive to waxing a few days before the menstrual cycle. 9. if there is a tendency towards ingrown hairs, (common in bikini area and on black skin), use a natural loofah sponge prior to waxing. 10. Extreme heat (hot baths, sauna, steam room, sun-bathing, etc.), should be avoided before and after waxing. 11. DO NOT use creams, lotions or oils on skin before waxing. 12. DO NOT wax and give a peeling treatment on the same day.

Skin Care Page 36 of 137

SC #23

Esthetician Night first 18 weeks

Monday Orientation

Anatomy, histology of skin Bacteriology, sanitation

Preparing the skin for treatment/draping, cleansing Massage techniques

Tuesday

Distribution of kits Professional ethics

Health and safety related to cosmetic skin care Skin analysis/types, conditions. and diseases, clinical profile

Hair removal/tweezing, waxing Shaping of brows

Wednesday and Thursday

Cosmetic chemistry/products ingredients, effect on he skin and mixing formulas

Make-up/analyzing skin tones (color key) Theory of color, shape of faces, application daytime, corrective

Lash application/ strip, individuals

Skin Care Page 37 of 137

            SC #24              

Pull fingers up to bottom of l1es and tum to interlock at frehead.

             

Stroke index fingers in zigzag movement across forehead from left to right and back.

Gently pull interlocked across forehead.  

              Place base of palm on middle of forehead. Rotate palm and begin Step 2

"S" movements under eye to nose, and circles out to ear (3x each side)              Alternate hand over hand from brow to hairline across forehead

Apply light pressure to lid and brow area and gently slide towards temple (3x)              Decreasing effleurage movements over decollete, arms, shoulders and neck (3x)

Slide fingers to temples and make small circles around them.              Gentle, decreasing pressure, circular movements around eyes (3x)

   

M Gentle, decreasing pressure, circular movements at temples (12x), then pressure off.

Skin Care Page 38 of 137

            SC #24   

Fa.4a.t.. 11  

Spreading Arm/Shoulder/Neck Back Massage Knuckling            

Circular effleurage from center Glide hand down side of neck, Glide hands down back, with Palms up, using knuckles,of chest to arm crease, then down front of arm to elbow, strong circular effleurage up to massage shouldersglide hands over shoulders glide up back of arm shoulders  

 Neck Massage Roll Patting Jaw Trails

  

Shoulder Massage

          

Strong effleurage up back of Circle w/1 hand down side of Soft rhythmic movements Grip chin and pull back firmly Gentle massage of ear neck, gentle down neck. Then neck to shoulder, across dec beginning at top of decollete, to ear (combine with ear beginning with lobes and hands at base of skull, pull to opposite shoulder, roll pat up throat to chin (3x) massage 6x) moving up the spine of the head, stretching neck up up neck/face/temples (2x) .. ear

 Cheek Massage Cheek Lift Butterfly Step 1 Butterfly Step 2 Butterfly Step 3

          

Using thumb, lift chin and cheek (6x)

Interlock fingers and gently lift cheeks with palm (3x)

Interlock fingers at base of chin (Follow Steps 1-5, 3x)

Pull apart with fluid movement, moving palm up cheeks to brow

Apply gentle pressure to brow and begin to pull fingers up cheeks

  

Skin Care Page 39 of 137

Revised 6/2001 SC #25

CERRITOS COLLEGE TECHNOLOGY DIVISION

COSMETOLOGY DEPARTMENT

EUROPEAN FACIAL PROCEDURE

1. Consultation with client 2. Cleanse 2 times 3. Analysis with Woods Lamp & Magnifying glass 4. If using Galvanic, use Negative pole first. 5 Turn Steam on 6. Scrub (with or without brushes) 7. Brush 8. Spray 9. Vacuum (skin must be moist) 10. Turn Steam off 11. Apply massage cream 12. Apply direct high frequency 13. Massage Routine 14. Remove massage cream 15. Apply mask 16. Turn Steam to soften mask 17. Remove mask 18. Turn Steam off 19. Galvanic-Positive Pole 20. Spray 21. Apply moisturizer 22. Blot any excess

Skin Care Page 40 of 137

SC #26

CERRITOS COLLEGE

TECHNOLOGY DIVISION COSMETOLOGY DEPARTMENT

EYE SHADOW AND MASCARA

CONTACT LENS WEARERS Your best choice is an eye shadow with a creamy textured powder. The Particles of drift from loose powdered eye shadows tend to fall into the eye and cause irritation. Avoid applying eyeliner to the rim of the lash line. If the eyes become irritated the eye will water away the product and cause streaks. Mascara is fine, but avoid mascara with lash building fibers. The filaments from the fillers can drop into the eyes, causing irritation. FEATURES Enhance the eye shape Creates and ads interest to the eyes APPLICATION One color – applied all over eye area from the lash up to the brow (Soft Tan/Neutral Taupe) Two color – 1 color applied to the entire eye area and another color is applied on and slightly above the crease to create emphasis. Three colors – start with two-color eye design, and then add a wedge shaped crease at the outer corner of the eye. The lid and under the brow should be a softer lighter or less intense color. Use a darker color for the wedge shaped crease Washes – sheer layers of overlapping color, Use lighter colors first.

MASCARA FEATURES Water-resistant Smudge proof Add length and Fullness Makes your eyes look larger Many have special additives to soothe and condition the lashes such a botanicals, herbs, vitamins, mineral and protein. One coat will do with many types of mascara

Skin Care Page 41 of 137

SC #26 USE If curling lashes, do so before applying mascara Apply to bottom first, Hold wand horizontally and move to out toward the tips Apply to top of lashes apply to underside. Fluff and separate with comb Starting at the base of the lash gently work it back and forth while moving it out to the tips If you want to add more, separate lashes with a lash comb between coats separated lashes as a final step SHADES SELECTION Adapt the color to the person’s age and style Brown Black Blue Clear To keep wet mascara from smudging after it’s on Bow dries on the coolest setting with the eyes closed

Skin Care Page 42 of 137

SC #27

CERRITOS COLLEGE

TECHNOLOGY DIVISION COSMETOLOGY DEPARTMENT

OPERATION FOR FACIALS

PLAIN FACIAL 1 plain facial operation W/ scrub 1 plain facial and 1 chemical facial W/ high frequency 1 plain facial and 1 electrical facial

EUROPEAN FACIALS 1 electrical and 1 chemical facial O R 2 electrical facials O R 2 chemical facials

Skin Care Page 43 of 137

SC #28

FACIALS

State Board Performance Criteria - Pages 13, 14, 15, & 16 Technicians 1. Washes hands before: a. Draping b. After shoes are removed c. Before touching face

2. Chair & client properly draped 3. SMA set-up & neatly maintained 4. Cleanse eyes & lips PRIOR to cleansing face 5. Distribute cream prior to manipulations 6. Massage

a. Face, neck, shoulder, & upper chest b. At least 3 different types of massage techniques c. Content, continuity, & rhythm maintained d. Up and outward movements e. Cream thoroughly removed f. Astringent applied

7. Clean-up a. Sanitize work area

SCRUBS

State Board Performance Criteria - Page 20 Manual facial with scrub.

1. Cleanse 2. Lightly coat skin with scrub 3. Keep moist, lightly work the scrub. DO NOT MASSAGE

SCRUB 4. Carefully remove with wet towel 5. Give massage and complete same as manual facial

Skin Care Page 44 of 137

Page 2 of 2 SC #28

MANUAL EYEBROW ARCH

State Board Performance Criteria - Page 29

1. Drape a. Chair – head rest b. Client (NO Foot drape required) 2. Cleanse gently a. Eyebrows b. Eye area 3. Eye pads a. Must be wet enough to cling – NOT dripping b. Must NOT cover working area (preferred shape ) 4. Preparation a. Make ring moisten top and bottom side with witch hazel. This is used for wiping brows when tweezing. b. Warm brows with warm wet cotton.

6. Technique a. Use two fingers to stretch skin taut and epilate hairs

between fingers. b. Epilate in direction of growth. c. Tweeze hairs one at a time. d. After procedure, wipe brow with astringent

Skin Care Page 45 of 137

SC #29

Cerritos College Technology Division

Cosmetology / Esthetician Department

GLANDS OF THE SKIN There are two types of duct glands in the skin. They extract materials from the blood to form new substances. The sudoriferous glands or sweat glands excrete sweat and the sebaceous glands or oil glands secrete sebum. 1. Sudoriferous Glands (sweat glands). Practically all parts of the body are supplied with sweat glands more on the palms, soles of the feet, forehead and armpits. a. Tubular type – consists of a coiled base or fundus and a tube like duct which terminates at the skin surface to form a sweat pore. b. Functions like a miniature kidney to eliminate waste from the body. The sudoriferous glands excrete 28% of all body waste. c. Excretion of sweat is controlled by the nervous system. d. Activity is greatly increased by heat, exercise, mental ex- citement and certain drugs. e. Normally, one to two pints of liquids containing salts, are eliminated daily. 2. Sebaceous Glands, (oil glands). The normal body contains about 600,000 sebaceous oil glands. They are found in all parts of the body, except the palms and soles of the feet. They are more numerous in the face and axilla. a. Sacular type – consists of little sacs whose duct opens into the hair follicle. The follicle may or may not contain a hair. b. They secrete sebum which lubricates the skin and preserves the softness of the hair. Every hair follicle has its own sebaceous gland. The job of these glands is to keep Growing hair well lubricated so that it is not dry and brittle when it reaches the surface. The size of the sebaceous gland varies. They are largest where hairs are least in number.

Skin Care Page 46 of 137

SC #29

DISEASES OF THE SEBACEOUS GLANDS The following information sheet lists several common diseases of the oil glands which the cosmetologist and estheticians should be able to identify and understand. 1. Comedone or blackheads – worm –like mass of hardened sebum, mostly on the face, forehead, and nose. Often more between the ages of 13 to 20- during the adolescent period the oil glands are more active. If severe, medical attention is necessary. 2. Milia – or whiteheads – caused by an accumulated mass of sebaceous matter beneath the skin. Occurs on any part of the face. Cosmetologist are not permitted to open the skin and remove. 3. Rosacea – may be called acne rosacea. Chronic inflammatory congestion of the cheeks and nose. Caused by poor digestion, over-indulgence in alcohol, over exposure to extreme climates, constipation, faulty elimination and hyperacidity. Diet should not consist of hot, highly spiced or seasoned foods. Rosacea has three stages as a rule: a. Starts with slight pinkness all over the face – varies with temperature. b. Affexts the capillaries- often become so dilated thy are apparent to the naked eye. Large pores, oiliness and comedowns result. c. Disfiguring – entire face becomes congested, even after treatment the condition may become chronic, although dormant for years. 4. Steatoms or Wen- sebaceous cyst- subcutaneous tumor of the sebaceous glands – contents consists of sebum-pea to orange in size – usually occurs on the scalp, neck, and back. 5. Asteatosis – dry skin – deficiency of sebum – due to old age or some illness. Sometimes caused by alkali found in some soaps. 6. Seborrhea – excessive secretion of the oil glands – oil or shiny condition of the nose, forehead or scalp. Exists in two forms which are both referred to as dandruff. a. Seborrhea oleosa – oily dandruff b. Seborrhea sicca – dry dandruff DISEASES OF THE SUDORIFEROUS GLANDS The following diseases or disorders of the sudoriferous glands usually require medical

treatment.

1. Anidrosis – lack of perspiration and may result in fever or certain skin diseases. 2. Hyperidrosis – excessive perspiration, caused by excessive heat or body weakness.

Mostly affects armpits, joints and feet.

Skin Care Page 47 of 137

SC #29

3. Miliaria rubra - prickly heat – red in color, burns and itches. Usually caused by exposure

to excessive heat. 4. Chromidrosis – discolored perspiration, very rare and usually caused by nervous disorder.

The excretion is brown, yellow or bluish in color. 5. Hemidrosis – bloody sweat – similar to chromidrosis except the excretion is of a bloody

type fluid. Very rare – usually follows hysteria or extreme nervous excitement. 6. Hydrocystoma – cysts of the coil-ducts – chronic, non-inflammatory disorder – usually

found on the face – scattered, isolated, deep-seated, persistant, clear vesicles. Washer- women, laundresses and those exposed to moisture and heat.

7. Uridrosis – excretion smells like urine – may occur with chromidrosis. 8. Sudamen – non-inflammatory – consists of tiny pimples that do not contain pus, but are

filled with perspiration, It is caused from an obstruction of the ducts and causes intense itching

9. Miliary fever – sweating sickness – infectious – high fever, profuse sweating and

produces sudamina (su-dam-i-na) (obstruction of the ducts). 10. Broidrosis or Osmidrosis – foul smelling – usually noticed in the armpits or feet.

DERMATOLOGY

Primary lesions: 1. Macule - a small discolored spot on the surface of the skin; neither raised nor sunken; usually found in rashes, such as measles, freckles, tattoos. 2. Papule - a small elevation or pimple containing no fluid, but may develop so later to contain pus. Moles, warts. 3. Wheal - raised ridge, caused by a blow of a whip, bits of an insect or hives. Type of papule. 4. Tubercle – solid elevation of the skin, varies from size of a flaxseed to size of a hickory nut. 5. Tumor - external swelling varies in size, shape and color. (phyma)

Skin Care Page 48 of 137

SC #29

6. Vesicle - small elevation, contains a serum-like fluid, such as a blister. 7. Nodules - larger papules – above, level with or beneath skin surface. Ex: Nodular secondary or tertiary syphilis epitheliomas, xanthomae. Large nodules are called tumors. 8. Bulla- (bleb) blister containing a serum-like fluid, similar to a vesicle, but larger. 9. Pustule - elevation having an inflamed base, contains pus. Secondary Lesions: 1. Scale - (squama) a dry or greasy separated protion of the epidermis. Ex: dandruff, psoriasis 2. Crusts - (scabs) 3 varieties a. blood crusts- red-black in color b. pus crusts – yellow-green in color c. serum crusts – honey-colored 3. Excoriation- (abrasion) raw surface 4. Fissure – crack in the skin, penetration into the derma, like chapped hands or lips. Congenital syphilis, athlete’s foot. 5. Ulcer- open lesion with formation of pus upon the surface of the skin. Ulcers of legs, tertiary syphilis. 6. Scar- the tissue formed after the healing of a wound or an ulcer. 7. Stain - abnormal discoloration remaining after the disappearance of moles, freckles or liver spots or sometimes after certain diseases. Tertiary Lesions: Third degree – needs a physician. Usually skin cancer. Inflammatory Skin Conditions 1. Boils - Furuncles-Carbuncles – Large pustules due to invasion of bacteria. If there is only one core, they are furuncles and more than one they Are carbuncles. 2. Dermatitis - Any inflammatory skin disease.

Skin Care Page 49 of 137

SC #29

3. Dermattits Medicamentosa – Inflammation of the skin due to irritation caused by drugs taken internally. 4. Dermatitis Venenata – An inflammation of the skin due to drug or other

irritating substance being applied to the skin such as acid, alkali, hair dyes and strong rinses.

5. Eczema - An inflammation of the skin appearing as red scaly patches, papules, vesicles, pustules or fissures. Secretion of yellowish or colorless sticky fluid which dries to form crusts – severe itching. Usually worse in cold climates – should have doctors care – NOT INFECTOUS 6. Herpes Simplex – Cold sore – Herpes Zoster – On other parts of the body it may produce a scaly type lesion which looks like shingles on a roof – it is commonly called shingles. It is on the body. Medical care required. 7. Miliaria Rubra – Inflammation of the sweat glands – small red pimples – called prickly heat. 8. Psoriasis – Chronic inflammation of the skin – dry, scaly patches of a silvery colored scab – when these patches are lifted, tiny bleeding points may be noticed. The real cause is unknown, but food and nerves may be partly responsible. Resists treatment – should be treated by physician. 9. Pityriasis Pilaris – Chronic inflammatory disease with eruptions of papules surrounding the hair follicles, each papule being pierced by a hair and tipped by a horny plug or scale. REFER TO PHYSICIAN. 10. Impetigo Contagiosa – SCRUM-FOX- pustules appear in isolated form as in small-pox- general weakness, faulty nutrition or hygienic neglect. 11. Variela – SMALL POX-Contagious skin disease identified by the presence of papules, vesicles and pustules and associated with fever, headache and pains. 12. Anthrax - Inflammatory skin disorder caused by spore forming bacteria small red papules, followed by formation of a pustule, vesicle and hard swelling. Itching and burning. Gangrenous carbuncle lesion-like caused by spore forming bacillus ( rod-shape bacteria) 13. Erysipelas - Acute, local highly infectious (will spread rapidly). Small red

Skin Care Page 50 of 137

SC #29

patches appear and gradually increase in size. Burns and itches Due to streptococcus infectious. Some cases can be fatal. REFER TO PHYSICIAN. 14. Ivy Dermatitis – Caused by exposure to poison ivy, oak or sumac leaves – blisters and itches – spreads from one part of the body to another contagious. REFER TO PHYSICIAN. 15. Dermatitis Combustionis – type of dermatitis produced by extreme heat, or by sun rays. 16. Dermatitis Seborrheica - inflammation of the skin coexistent with seborrhea originates on the scalp- oily secretions and crusts- yellowish in color. 17. Scabies - Mite- burrows into skin. Moves around causing severe itching. The difference between dermatitis and eczema is that dermatitis usually refers to skin eruptions due to a known cause, while eczema refers to eruptions of unknown origin. Syphilis is a chronic, infectious veneral diseases which may be hereditary, inducing cutaneous and other lesions. Very contagious. It is characterized on the skin By form of macules, papules, pustules, tubercles, gummata (tumor peculiar to syphilis) Ulcerations and primary sclerosis (hardening). You must refuse to work on a client with this condition and recommend they see a DOCTOR. Tetanus is an acute infectious disease marked by a state of persistent spasm of the voluntary muscles. Skin Conditions: 1. Albinism - a white condition of the skin caused by absence of pigment. 2. Asteatosis - lack of secretion of sebaceous matter – dry skin. Caused by old age or constitutional disorder – alkaline in soap, etc. 3. Chloasma - patches of increased pigment on the skin- brown patches frequently found on the face. 4. Cicatrices - scar- skin or film which forms from a wound. 5. Keloid - over- development of scar tissue after the healing of a wound. 6. Lentigo - freckles- tiny patches of increased pigment usually occur on sensitive skins for a protection against sun.

Skin Care Page 51 of 137

SC #29

7. Leucoderma - an absence of pigment in patches- Also called Vitiligo. 8. Milia - small whitish nodules – due to retention of sebum- more often seen on cheeks, forehead and eyelids. 9. Nevi – (Nevus, Naevus)-moles or birthmarks – pigmentations due to increased number of cells in the layers of the epidermis with many fine blood vessels throughout the area. Cause unknown. 10. Urticaria – hives or nettle rash. 11. Warts - are outgrowths of the papillary layer of the corium with a large mass of covering of epithelial cells. The medical name is Verucca. 12. Xanthoma - small yellow growths of the skin – slightly raised above the surface varies from size of pinhead to a bean- found particularly around rims of eyelids. Symptoms – Sign of disease A. Subjective – can be felt, has itching, pain, burning. B. Objective – can be seen as in pimples, pustules, or inflammation.

ACNE Acne is a chronic inflammatory disease in and around the setaceous oil glands. Acne chiefly affects the face in the form of pustules, papules or tubercles. The cause is generally held to be microbic, but adolescence factors and disturbances of the digestive tract are also main causes. The different forms of acne are: 1. Acne vulgaris or simplex – common pimple inflammatory skin disorder- chiefly on face- associated with blackheads and oily skin. More common in youth. 2. Acne pauulosa – popular lesion predominate – elevated- contains no fluid. 3. Acne pustulosa – pustular lesions are present – inflamed and contains pus. 4. Acne albida – presence of milia- whiteheads in acne.

Skin Care Page 52 of 137

SC #29

5. Acne hypertrphica (hi-per-tro-hic-ka) – acne scars – varies with the severity of the lesions. 6. Acne artificialis – cause by the application of external irritants or drugs taken internally. 7. Acne indurate – deep seated hard tubercular lesions- mostly on face, neck and back. 8. Acne cachecticorum – occurs in anemia victims or of some other weakening disease. 9. Acne keratosa (follicularis pilaris)- eruption of papules consists of horny plugs projecting from the hair follicles- inflammatory. 10. Acne urticata – abrasions accompanied by urticaria (ur-ti-ka-re-a) wheals and sever itching develops; hive, nettle rash. 11. Acne rosacea – usually affects the nose – the blood vessels are involved since the circulation of the blood is disturbed. This area does not have the normal resistance to infection and often pustules develop. The skin takes on a bluish red or brownish discoloration. 12. Acne punctata – red papules in which blackheads are usually found. 13. Acne cilaiaris – acne at the edges of the eyelids. 14. Acne generalis – acne over entire surface of the body.

TRICHOLOGY – TECHNICAL TERMS

1. Capilli – The head 2. Cilia – The eyelashes 3. Supercilila – The eyebrows 4. Sarba – The face 5. Vibrissae – The nostrils 6. Tragi – The ears 7. Hirci – The Armpits 8. Pubes – The pubic region 9. Melanin – Coloring matter of hair 10. Keratin – Chief composition of hair

Skin Care Page 53 of 137

SC #29

11. Hydroscopic – Quality of hair to absorb moisture 12. Porosity – Ability of hair to absorb moisture 13. Lepcthrix –When the hair becomes covered with scales 14. Imbrication – Needle like points on the hair 15. Tinea – Ringworm 16. It is - Inflammation

Skin Care Page 54 of 137

Revised 4/95 SC #30

CERRITOS COLLEGE TECHNOLOGY DIVISION

COSMETOLOGY DEPARTMENT

PROCEDURE SHEET

HOW TO GIVE A STANDARD ELECTRICAL FACIAL (WALL PLATE)

MATERIALS NEEDED:

Same as for a plain facial with the addition of the Wall Plate and its electrodes.

INTRODUCTION:

The electrical facial may be varied to suit the client's need. The Faradic or

Sinusoidal current produces mechanical massage, and the Galvanic current

produces a chemical effect. The effects of the currents upon the body must be

clearly understood before attempting to give an electrical facial.

PROCEDURE:

1. Assemble materials and drape client.

2. Prepare electrodes for use with the Galvanic current.

a. Wrap both electrodes with cotton moistened with water.

b. Client lies on canvas pad or hold metal electrode, cosmetologist uses carbon ball.

3. Apply cleansing cream and remove thoroughly.

4. Apply negative Galvanic - 5 to 7 minutes.

a. Roll carbon ball electrode (wrapped with water moist cotton) lightly over

face and neck for 5 to 7 minutes.

b. Concentrate on comedone areas.

5. Remove Galvanic carbon ball electrodes.

a. Replace with wrist electrode.

6. Apply tissue (massage) cream.

7. Apply Faradic or Sinusoidal current - 10 to 15 minutes.

a. Give routine massage movements for 10 tp 15 minutes

b. Client lies on canvas pad, cosmetologist uses wrist electrode.

c. Use Sinusoidal current for nervous type client , limit to 10 minutes

(deeper penetration, but smoother)

d. Concentrate on fatty tissue area.

8. Remove tissue (massage) cream.

9. Apply astringent. Skin Care Page 55 of 137

How to Give a Standard Electrical Facial (Wall Plate) (Con't) SC #30 Page 2

10. Remove wrist electrode and replace with carbon ball electrode wrapped in wet cotton.

a. Cotton should be moistened with astringent.

11. Apply positive Galvanic - 2 to 4 minutes.

a. Apply for 2 to 4 minutes.

b. Client lies on canvas pad, cosmetologist uses carbon ball electrode.

c. Concentrate on large pore areas.

12. Apply make-up.

SAFETY PRECAUTIONS:

1. Have instructor check before you turn current on.

2. Do not break contact with client while current is turned on.

3. Advance and decrease current slowly, so you do not cause client discomfort.

4. Never turn current so high as to be painful to client or cosmetologist.

5. Do not use the negative Galvanic current over skin having broken capillaries

or a pustular acne condition.

6. Do not use Faradic or Sinusoidal current if the client's face is florid, if the

client has broken capillaries on the skin, high blood pressure or any pustular

condition of the skin.

7. Client and cosmetologist remove watch and large rings.

Skin Care Page 56 of 137

SC #31

Cerritos College Technology Division

Cosmetology Department

Iontophoresis

Iontophoresis (cataphoresis) introduces water- soluble products into skin with electric current. Creates an exchange of negative and positive ions. -Chemical reaction in the skin creates an acidic environment Galvanic current helps solution penetrate deeper into skin. Current flows through conductive solutions from positive and negative polarities.

Skin Care Page 57 of 137

Revised 5-2001 SC #32

Cerritos College Technology Division

Cosmetology Department

INFORMATION & PROCEDURE SHEET

MASSAGE MOVEMENTS & PLAIN FACIALS

INTRODUCTION: Massage is a method of treating the superficial parts of the body for health and beauty. Each message movement is applied in a way to accomplish a particular purpose. Massage is performed either by hand, mechanical, or electrical. Stimulating or soothing effect may be produced depending on the method used. The hand massage is the most common method. Electrical appliances used most commonly: Therapeutic lamps, high frequency.

I. MASSAGE TREATMENT

A. Combination of Movements 1. One or more basic movements will be used with each massage

B. Results 1. Depend upon amount of a. Pressure b. Direction of movement c. Duration of each type of manipulation

C. Origin of muscle 1. The fixed attachment of one end of a muscle to a bone or tissue

D. Insertion of a muscle 1. The attachment of the opposite end of the origin of the muscle to another muscle 2. Or to a movable bone or joint

E. Correct direction for massaging

1. Massaging from insertion the of the muscle to the origin

F. IMPORTANT REMINDER: 1. NEVER give massage to clients with a. High blood pressure b. Heart condition c. Stroke victim d. Refer client to physician first 2. Avoid vigorous massage of joints if client has arthritis 3. Adjust touch to client’s needs and comfort

II. BASIC MANIPULATIONS USED IN MASSAGE A. EFFLEURAGE PROCEDURE 1. Definition a. Is a light continuous stroking movement b. Applied with fingers (digital) and palms (palmar) in slow, rhythmic manner

Skin Care Page 58 of 137

Page 2 Massage, Plain Facial, Arch, and Daytime Make-up Information and Procedure Sheet SC #32

c. NO PRESSURE IS USED d. Palms work over large surfaces e. Fingertips work over small surfaces such as around eyes 2. Purpose a. Used for SOOTHING and RELAXING effects 3. Where used a. Forehead, face, scalp, back, shoulders, neck, chest, arms, and hands 4. Finger position for stroking a. Curve fingers slightly b. Use cushions of fingertips only (not ends) 5. Palm position for stroking a. Hold whole hand loosely b. Keep wrist and fingers flexible c. Curve fingers to conform to area being massaged B. PETRISSAGE PROCEDURE 1. Definition a. Is a kneading movement where skin and underlying flesh is grasped between fingers and palm b. Tissues are lifted from underlying structures and squeezed, rolled, or pinched with LIGHT, FIRM PRESSURE 2. Purpose a. Used to invigorate parts being massage b. Gives deeper stimulation to muscles and nerves, skin glands, and improves circulation c. Movements should be rhythmic, not jerky

3. Where used a. Usually limited to back, shoulder, and arms b. Digital kneading can be done on the cheeks 4. Fulling a. Form of petrissage used mainly on arms b. Fingers of both hands grasp arm and apply kneading movement across flesh c. Only LIGHT PRESSURE is used on 1) Underside of client’s forearm 2) Between shoulder and elbow

C. FRICTION PROCEDURE 1. Definition a. Is a deep rubbing movement-requiring pressure on skin while moving it over the underlying structures 2. Purpose a. Has marked influence on circulation and glandular activity of skin 3. Where used a. Scalp, arms, and hands b. Circular friction can be done on face 4. Variations a. Chucking

Skin Care Page 59 of 137

Massage, Plain Facial, Arch, and Daytime Make-up Information and Procedure Sheet Page 3 SC #32

1) Accomplished by gasping flesh firmly in one hand and moving hand up and down along bone, while other hand keeps arm or leg in a steady position

b. Rolling 1) Tissue are compressed against bone and twisted around arm or leg 2) Both hands are active as flesh is twisted down the arm in same

direction c. Wringing 1) Vigorous movements where hands are placed a little distance a part

on both sides of arm or leg 2) A twisting motion is applied against bones in opposite direction while

working hands downward D. PERCUSSION OR TAPOTEMENT 1. Definition a. Are tapping, slapping and hacking movement

b. It’s done in a rhythmic and springy fashion with the pads of the fingers or the side of the palms

2. Purpose a. This form is the most STIMULATING b. Apply with care and discretion c. Increases blood circulation d. Promotes muscle contraction for better tone and healthy glow to skin 3. Where used a. Over large areas of the face b. Hacking on arms and back c. Tapping 1) Facials with light digital tapping a) Bring fingers down against skin in rapid succession b) Keep fingers flexible to create an even force over area d. Slapping 1) Palms used in light, firm, and rapid slapping movement’s

a) Wrists and outer edges of hands are used b) Fast, light, firm, flexible motions in alternate succession

E. VIBRATION 1. Definition0 a. It is a shaking movement accompanied by rapid muscular contractions

in YOUR arms while pads of fingers are pressed firmly on point of application.

b. HIGHLY STIMULATING 1. Limit to a few seconds per spot 2. Mechanical vibrators can also be used

F. Benefits of massage 1. Increases blood circulation 2. Increases lymph circulation 3. Stimulates glandular activity 4. Tones muscles

Skin Care Page 60 of 137

Page 4 Massage, Plain Facial, Arch, and Daytime Make-up Information and Procedure Sheet SC #32

5. Soothes and rests nerves 6. Makes skin soft and pliable 7. Reduces fat cells 8. Relieves congestion and pain

E. CAUTIONS IN MASSAGE

1. Keep the skin well covered with cream when giving a massage 2. Massage toward the origin of the muscles 3. Keep a light touch on the face and go lightly over the trachea 4. Keep manipulations smooth and rhythmical 5. Don’t break connections with the client after starting manipulations unless it is

absolutely necessary 6. When ending manipulations, gradually feather fingers off the client 7. Observe proper sanitary measures!

a. This is the most important step when giving a facial

Skin Care Page 61 of 137

Massage, Plain Facial, Arch, and Daytime Make-up Information and Procedure Sheet Page 5 SC #32

PROCEDURE SHEETS

PLAIN FACIAL, ARCH WITH TWEEZERS, DAYTIME MAKE-UP

III. PLAIN FACIAL with Arch, Scrub, and pack or mask

A. Wash hand B. Clean station C. Setup table and SMA

1. Have all containers and bottles properly labeled a. Astringent b. Water (optional) c. Container with cotton, cotton balls or cotton pads d. Cleansing cream e. Massage cream f. Scrub g. Mask or pack h. Soiled container i. Trash bag j. Six-well tray

2. Items on SMA a. Tissues and strips of tissues b. Sanitized spatula c. Tweezers (if giving an arch) d. Clean towels 1) For removal of scrub or mask/pack

2) Head drape (terry towel or headband with shower cap) 3) Draping back of chair 4) Towel for across clients chest (Barbee Towel) 5) Towel for head rest

e. Booties f. Sheet (optional)

D. Wash hands (also whenever they get soiled) E. Ask client to remove jewelry (technician needs to remove their jewelry) F. Drape chair

1. With Sheet 2. Headrest with terry towel 3. Back of chair with terry towel

G. Drape client (ask client to change into facial gown before draping them) 4. Head drape 5. Body 6. Remove shoes and place booties on feet 7. Wrap sheet over the client (as shown during demonstration)

H. Recline Client I. Wash hands J. Cleanse heavy make-up from the face

1. Eye make-up first (eyebrows, eyelids then eyelashes) 2. Then lipstick (from corner or mouth to center of lips)

Skin Care Page 62 of 137

Page 6 Massage, Plain Facial, Arch, and Daytime Make-up Information and Procedure Sheet SC #32

3. Eyebrow arch – optional (If client request eyebrow arch with tweezers, implement service at this point)

K. Then cleanse entire face and neck L. Remove cleansing cream with tissues (mitts) M. Apply scrub (optional) N. Apply massage cream to face, neck, chest, back of shoulders, and arms

1. Have client slightly sit-up and apply massage cream to shoulders & arms (above elbows)

O. Give facial manipulations as to technique taught (don’t forget to feather off) P. Remove all massage cream

1. Make sure all massage cream if removed especially on shoulders, back of neck, and decollate Q. Apply pack or mask (Remove with warm towels) (optional) R. Apply astringent or skin freshener (all areas that massage cream was applied)

(Purpose is to close the client's pores) S. Clean-up and sanitize work area (if not applying make-up) T. Make-up – Optional - Client is ready for their make-up

(Reset you table set-up and the SMA) IV. EYEBROW ARCH

A. Prepare client 1. If client has not had a facial a. Check chair for safety and if it's operational

b. Drape with a single towel over the head rest c. Always protect client from touching the back of the chair with a towel

d. Set client in a reclining chair 1) Drape client's head with Sanex strip or head band then a shower cap or towel

2) Place Sanex strip around neck and place make-up cape e. Wash hands

B. Discuss with client suitable style for their eyebrows 1. Mark with eyebrow pencil

a. Where the eyebrow begins b. Where the highest point of the arch c. The end of your eyebrow should be

C. Cover eyes with cotton pledgets moistened with astringent or water (not dry or dripping wet)

1. Make the pledgets into crescent shape 2. Do not cover working area

3. If facial has not been done previously a. Clean off all eyebrow pencil and eye make-up b. Soften brows with hot towel or c. With a strip of cotton soaked in hot water

4. Make a ring with cotton a. Keep cotton saturated with antiseptic around a finger to wipe hairs that collect on tweezers

Skin Care Page 63 of 137

Massage, Plain Facial, Arch, and Daytime Make-up Information and Procedure Sheet Page 7 SC #32

D. TWEEZING 1 Stretch skin taunt with index finger and thumb

2. Epilate hairs between fingers grasping individual hair with a quick motion in the direction in which the hair grow

a. Sponge tweezed area frequently with cotton moistened with an antiseptic lotion 1) The purpose is to prevent infection

3. Shape brows beneath the brow area a. Avoid pulling brows at the top b. Only remove stray hairs at top of brow 4. Apply astringent a. To close the pores

E. Clean-up and sanitize work area, if only giving an arch V. DAY-TIME MAKE-UP

A. After a facial 1. Apply skin freshener or astringent according to skin type 2. Apply moisturizer according to skin type

B. Foundation 1. Apply in seven dots a. Neck b. Both sides of face c. Chin d. Cheeks e. Nose f. Forehead 2. Blend foundation a. Do not leave a line of demarcation along hairline or jaw area

C. Rouge (Cream blush) or powder blush 1. Cream rouge over cream foundation 2. Powder blush over powder

D. Powder (loose or packed) 1. Press firmly so it will adhere 2. Cover entire face, neck, and eyelids 3. Brush off excess with cotton 4. Final stroke in a downward motion

E. Eyebrow pencil 1. Light pencil strokes

F. Eye Shadow 1. Blend upward and outward motion 2. Keeping depth of color according to shape of eyes and type of make-up

G. Eyeliner 1. Apply close to eyelashes

H. Mascara 1. Upper lashes heavier than lower 2. False lashes may be applied at this time

I. Lipstick

Skin Care Page 64 of 137

Page 8 Massage, Plain Facial, Arch, and Daytime Make-up Information and Procedure Sheet SC #32

1. Use small swab – draw outline with lips closed 2. Retrace outline with lips taunt over teeth 3. Fill in lips, allow to set, blot with tissue 4. For better lasting

a. Powder over first application and reapply – blot J. Final touch

1. Bathe face lightly with skin lotion on cotton 2. Gives a dewy appearance 3. Remove all traces of powder from lashes and brows

K. Remove head drape L. Remove line of demarcation around hairline by blending in powder M. Precautions

1. Do not double dip in shadows, lipsticks, or mascara 2. Do not blow excessive product off if using a brush to apply make-up 3. Sharpen eyebrow, eyeliner, or lip pencil before and after use 4. Use only sanitized brushes or disposable make-up applicators 5. Used shaker-type container for loose powder 6. Never apply lip color directly from the container to the client’s lips 7. Keep your work area clean, neat, and well organized

N. Clean-up and sanitize work area O. Empty trash P. Sanitize all implements and then store in clean container

Skin Care Page 65 of 137

Revised 3/94 SC #33

CERRITOS COLLEGE TECHNOLOGY DIVISION

COSMETOLOGY DEPARTMENT

INFORMATION SHEET

MODALITIES

HIGH FREQUENCY: Momo Terminal

1. Physical Effects: Causes the circulatory system, blood stream, lymphatic, etc., to concentrate and circulate rapidly thorough the area treated. Dries moist eruptions.

2. Uses: Scalp and facial treatment. (Where state laws permit, and excellent method for

removing warts, moles, etc., by fulguration). Not allowed in California. 3. Objective: To provide nutriment to hair follicles and skin tissue through activation

of the blood stream. To remove waste, promote metabolism through activation of the lymphatic system. To remove congestion, discoloration from bruises, etc. To promote glandular activity.

4. Electrodes employed: The glass "rake" electrode inserted in the large insulated

handle with cord attached for scalp. The glass "body" or "facial" electrode inserted in the same handle for facials. Use the glass bar electrode for indirect application. The special "fulguration" electrode with the fine wire projecting from the end inserted in the same handle for sparking warts, moles, used by the medical field.

FARADIC: Bi Terminal

1. Physical Effects: Mechanical, massage 2. Direct Effects: Causes muscle contraction through electrical stimulation to the

motor nerves. Increases glandular activity through electrical stimulation. This current is not recommended for clients that are very nervous.

3. Uses: Facial and scalp treatment. 4. Objective: To relieve spastic muscles (stiffness) To stimulate glandular activity for

nutriment and life to hair follicles. 5. Electrodes Employed: Wristband electrode with contact disc padded with wet

cotton or gauze and attached to technician's wrist during routine massage movements. Canvas pad is placed under clients shoulder. For scalp, the special metal toothed hair brush (not supplied with standard set of accessories).

Skin Care Page 66 of 137

Page 2 Modalities (Con't) SC #33

SINUSOIDAL: Bi Terminal

1. Physical Effects: Mechanical massage (muscle contraction). Produced by an alternating current by induction through a transformer. Does not have a buzzer. If used to long, muscle fatigue can develop.

2. Direct Effect: Greater stimulation, less irritation, deeper penetration into the tissues

and soothes the nerves. The characteristics used objectives and electrodes for the sinusoidal current are similar or the same as for the faradic current. The sinusoidal current is simply a more refined and smoother current producing rhythmic contractions, more agreeable to the ultra nervous type of client.

GALVANIC: Bi Terminal

1. Physical Effects: Chemical 2. Direct Effects: Breaks up certain chemical combinations and drives selected

elements into tissues (phoresis). Influences chemical element already present in the tissues.

3. Uses: Facial and scalp treatments. 4. Objective: To bleach sallow skin by the chemical action of selected lotions through

phoresis. To close pores by the astringent action of the current. To control excessive oiliness by the astringent action of the current. To remove superfluous hair electrolysis.

5. Electrodes Employed: Canvas pad, carbon cylinder or carbon ball electrode

wrapped in cotton wet with lotion selected for phoresis. Large, nickel-plated handle or carbon cylinder electrode wrapped in wet cotton and held by client in both hands during treatment. Electrolytic cup (not supplied with standard set of accessories) for direct cleansing action. Metal toothed for scalp applications. Needle holder and needle for electrolysis.

6. Galvanic Polarity Effects: The effects of the positive and the negative poles of the

galvanic current are the exact opposites of one another. The following list of these effects is arranged for easy memorizing by remembering

the key words, "PASSAIC NABISCO". P-ositive N-egative A-cid reaction A-lkaline reaction S-lows blood circulation B-lood circulation increased S-edative and soothing I-rritation and stimulating A-stringent and firms tissues S-oftens hardened tissue I-ron or bare metal electrodes C-austic in excessive concentration, never used on direct skin destroying hair follicles by electrolysis C-loses pores through astringent O-pens pores and cleans by properties direct action 7. Galvanic Notes:

Skin Care Page 67 of 137

Modalities (Con't) Page 3 SC #33

Electrodes and tissue surface must be moist for satisfactory galvanic treatment,

except in electrolysis. The current strength must be increased and decrease gradually in galvanic treatments

to prevent painful stimulus to motor points and nerves. To obtain the best results, use sufficient current strength for the client to definitely

sense the presence of the current, but not enough to bring discomfort. The negative pole drives in the alkalines. The positive pole drives in the acids.

Skin Care Page 68 of 137

Revised 3/00 SC #34

CERRITOS COLLEGE TECHNOLOGY DIVISION

COSMETOLOGY DEPARTMENT

PRECAUTIONS WHEN USING FACIAL MACHINE

VAPORIZER

1. Check the WATER level of the vaporizer a. DO NOT over fill b. DO NOT RUN DRY

A warning from the manufacture is as follows: The automatic shut off is a safety feature and should not be used as an off switch. Always keep your heating coil covered with water. Should the unit shut itself off, turn switch off, wait 5 minutes, refill with water and turn unit back on.

c. Remove the cap and pour distilled water into the glass jar up to the TOP RED LINE, not over it.

d. DO NOT put aromatic oils into the water. 2. Never point vapor at the client until the vapor is coming out.

3. Vapor arm should be at 45 degree turn knob to release nozzle angle and

away from client about 12 to 21 inches. a. Set timer for 7 – 12 minutes (time required to generate steam) b. When the steam starts coming out the nozzle re-set the timer for

required time needed for application. Turn active mist switch on and adjust distance between client and steamer in accordance to skin condition and within the client’s comfort.

4. Use approximately for 10 – 20 minutes.

5. Do not use on asthmatics or client’s with respiratory conditions.

6. Clean vaporizer with white vinegar and distilled water. 1 to 3 ratio followed be distilled water being run thru machine.

a. To remove glass jar, make sure steamer is not hot, hold glass jar With one hand, and with the other hand turn knob counter clock- Wise and remove jar. - C A U T I O N – Do not touch heating element.

VACUUM / SPRAY ATOMIZER This system aids in cleansing the skin surface by allowing easier removal of excess oils from the surface of the skin. The spray system gently and uniformly distributes lotions or astringents on the skin to achieve refreshing or rinsing action.

Skin Care Page 69 of 137

Revised 3/00 SC #34

Precautions con’t

1. DO NOT attach spray bottle to vacuum suction hose it will be sucked into the machine and damage it

2. Fill spray bottles with water type lotions, NO cream or oils (use astringent, freshener types)

3. Hold bottle 18 inches from clients face / shield eyes and cover air outlet on atomizer.

4. Never point directly up / at nose.

VACUUM Prepares for extraction and stimulates the lymphatic system.

1. Insert the proper ventouse into the vacuum air line a. Adjust and test suction. b. Finger covers air hole on ventouse

2. Adjust the vacuum intensity by turning the intensity control knob

clockwise for greater vacuum, and counter clockwise for less vacuum.

3. To release suction, remove your finger tip from the small hole.

4. Vacuum may have cotton for filter.

5. Vacuum moist skin. a. Disincrustation solution, warm vapors, multi active toner.

6. Use up and out techniques.

BRUSHING This system assist in performing a more thorough cleansing of the skin, features a variety of attachments designed for different functions, Special features include a speed control for adjusting to different skin types or procedures.

1. Insert the proper attachment (brush) into the head.

2. Turn power switch “on”.

3. Faster speeds are more abrasive

4. Brush must be dampened

Skin Care Page 70 of 137

Revised 3/00 SC #34

5. Pressure must not be used.

6. Limit time in relation to skin sensitivity

7. Never use over troubled skin such as inflammation, pustules, abrasions, and

sunburn.

8. To remove the attachment, turn the power switch off and pull out the attachment from the head with slight force.

Skin Care Page 71 of 137

SC #35

CERRITOS COLLEGE TECHNOLOGY DIVISON

COSMETOLOGY DEPARTMENT

PROCESS OF EXFOLIATION Exfoliation is a process that removes dead cells from the surface or the skin, which gives a fresh clear appearance. This cosmetic process aided by abrasive, biological, enzymatic or acidic products only removes dead surface cells and the products of keratinization in the horny stratum corneum of the epidermis. Skin peeling treatment improves tone and quality of the complexion. If using Retin A or taking Accutane client should NOT have any type of exfoliation treatment. ABRASIVE PROCESS: Mild is used on the face ( examples: oatmeal, corn meal, whoa germ). Medium is used for body (examples: salts, ground almonds). Hard is used for feet (examples: pumice, buff puff, loofa, walnut shells, Apricot kernels). Grains, granules, brushes other such items are abrasive to the skin and mechanically “slough” off dead surface cells. May take the form of a scrub, natural brush, loofa. BIO-PEEL RUBBING PROCESS: Gum or wax base, adheres to the dead surface cells. The area is then rolled off the skin with light friction massage taking the surface cells with it. ENZYMATIC PROCESS: Fruit/animal enzymes are called “Biological Scalpels” as they digest the non-living protein of the dead surface skin cells. Look for papain, bromelaine and pancreatic enzymes. Papaya produces Papin/ Pineapple produces Bromelaine/ Hogs Pancreas produces Pepsin-Tripsin.

Skin Care Page 72 of 137

SC #35

HYDROXY ACID PROCESS: ALPHA:(One hydroxy molecule attached to the 1st carbon bond) AHA products dissolves the intercellular “glue” that holds the stratum corneum cells together(N.M.F.). Found naturally in milk or molasses (lattic acid), sugar cane (glycolic acid), wine (tartic acid) and apples (malic acid). BETA:(Two hydroxy molecules attached to the 2nd carbon bond). BHA products cause exfoliation of the surface cells and replacement of new cells from below. Found in citrus fruit (citric acid) and wintergreen leaves or willow bark (salicylic acid).

Skin Care Page 73 of 137

SC #36

CERRITOS COLLEGE

TECHNOLOGY DIVISION COSMETOLOGY DEPARTMENT

STUDENT CONTRACT

Glass Electrodes (Facial and High Frequency)

I___________________________ will be responsible for the proper use and care of the Print Name glass electrodes. I understand if one breaks while checked out to me from the lab or instructor of the class, that I will have to pay a fee of $20.00 per each electrode that is returned broken. ____________________________________ Print Name ____________________________________ ________________ Signature Date

Skin Care Page 74 of 137

Revised 4/95

SC #37 - F 1

CERRITOS COLLEGE TECHNOLOGY DIVISION

COSMETOLOGY DEPARTMENT

PROCEDURE SHEET

LESSON TITLE: How to do a waxing. MATERIALS NEEDED:

Heater (electric) and wax Individual portion cup Cotton Corn starch 2 dishes (small plastic) - 1 soapy water, 1 clear water Astringent emollient cream Sanitary maintenance towel Wax Spatula - wooden 2 towels (1 for the head drape, 1 for over the back of the facial chair) Body drape - may be comb-out cape or shampoo cape Neck strips

INTRODUCTION:

Because there are so many women today who are taking more of an interest in their personal appearance, it is necessary that a cosmetologist has the knowledge to perform these duties in a professional and correct manner. There are many women who do not want to go into permanent hair removal through electrolysis, due to the expense involved. The next thing to permanent hair removal is waxing. It has to be done more often. It does not increase the growth of the hair; if anything; it eventually weakens the follicle and will encourage less growth. Bear in mind that the facial hair and leg hair is much weaker than the hair on the head. It is a specialized area in cosmetology and can add a special service and profit to a salon.

INSTRUCTION:

1. Plug in and turn on wax heater.

2. Prepare your set-up before seating client.

3. Sanitize hands by washing with soap and water.

4. Drape chair.

5. Drape client completely covering hair and clothing. Shampoo cape or comb-out cape with neck strip are acceptable.

4. Heat wax in heater to body temperature.

6. Cleanse eye and eyebrow area, using cleansing cream. Be sure to completely remove cleanser with astringent or soap and water.

7. Apply wet eye pads..

8. Apply talcum powder or cornstarch to area where waxing is to take place.

9. Test wax on inner wrist.

Skin Care Page 75 of 137

How to do a waxing. (con't) Page 2

10. Apply wax in the same direction that the hair grows, apply fabric strips if needed (leave tail).

11. Stroke with direction of growth to imbed hair, allow to cool.

12. Slide fabric 1/4 inch, gently stretch skin and pull wax off with one movement in the opposite direction the hair grows and close to the skin. (Very, very quickly!)

13. When fabric isn't used, gently stretch skin and pull wax off with one movement in the opposite direction the hair grows. (Very, very quickly!)

14. Immediately apply pressure and gently massage.

15. If a second application is needed do so immediately, providing the skin is not irritated.

16. Apply emollient cream or astringent to treated area.

17. Best not to apply make-up for 24 hours.

PRECAUTIONS:

Do not apply wax to irritated skin, acne conditions, warts, moles or broken capillaries. Test temperature! Be sure and have wax at body temperature or it may cause a serious burn. Have client keep eyes closed at all times. Use eye pads and cover hair and clothing. Be sure to sanitize your hands and use clean individual applicators and container. Most important that you stretch skin when pulling off the wax, otherwise, it is painful. Important to remove very, very quickly, parallel to the skin and in the opposite direction of the hair growth.

Skin Care Page 76 of 137

Revised 11/97

SC # 38 - F#2 Cerritos College

Technology Division Cosmetology Department

PROCEDURE SHEET

AMBER HOT WAX

ITEMS REQUIRED:

6 well tray Barbie towel for chair soil bag head & body drape SMA towel tweezers wax application wax applicator wax & heater mirror fabric pre-lotion or soapy water powder astringent soothing lotion or jell cleanser (for removing hot wax) cotton tissue

PROCEDURE: 1. Wash hands 2. Prepare table set-up, SMA, and trash bag 3. Drape client (head drape & combout cape) 4. Consult with client 5. Heat wax using the Amber Depilatory Heater until it melts and flows easily 6. Prepare the areas to be waxed a. Cleanse b. Apply antiseptic c. Use Pure Tea Tree Oil for small areas for increase numbing effect 7. Blot excess moisture with tissue 8. Apply eyepads 9. Lightly cover the same area with dusting powder (to establish the direction of the hair growth) 10. Test temperature of wax (inside of technician’s wrist) 11. Apply wax in the direction of hair growth 12. Apply dense non-woven fabric in direction of hair growth a. Lay a strip over the area and bond well 13. Remove wax with a quick and close to skin in the opposite direction of hair growth a. While holding the adjacent skin firmly 14. Apply pressure immediately on same area with finger 15. Smooth the treated area with lotion or jell

Skin Care Page 77 of 137

Revised 7/06

SC #39 - F#3 Cerritos College

Technology Division Cosmetology Department

L’ELYSEE PROFESSIONAL COLD WAXING SYSTEM

STEP NO. PRODUCT NO. 1. SANITIZE: A. Hands > Use Soap & __________________L’ELYSEE B. Area > Water or SANITIZER___#1 2. Dry: A. Towel ______________________________L’ELYSEE B. Powder SANITIZER___#2 3. PORTION WAX: A. Consistency: Depending on the thickness of the hair, choose from ________________ L’ELYSEE COLD WAX__#3 normal, medium, or coarse hair formulas. Always start with normal formula 4. SPREAD WAX: A. Stretch skin FLAT B. Empty wax from spatula unto skin, sideway C. Direction of hair growth D. Very thin (slightly thicker layer of wax on loose skin) 5. PALCE STRIP: A. Make tail B. Press indirection of hair growth C. Slide while pressing down 6. RIP OFF: A. Stretch skin FLAT B. Opposite direction of hair growth C. Parallel to skin D. Very, very fast 7. PRESS: Apply pressure with hand 8. WASH: With water 9. SOOTHE & DISINFECT: A. Apply a compress, with cotton, of _____L’ELYSEE ASTRINGENT _____#4 B. For sensitive skin use ______L’ELYSEE MOISTURIZING CUCUMBER GEL _____#5 10. INGROWN HAIR REDUCTION: (home use only) A. Exfoliate with Loofah in shower 5 to 7 days after waxing B. Scrub the area in the shower with Loofah & ______L’ELYSEE SCRUB ____#6 C. After shower massage with the ___L’ELYSEE MOISTURIZING CREAM __#7

Skin Care Page 78 of 137

Revised 7/2001

SC #40 F #4 CERRITOS COLLEGE

TECHNOLOGY DIVISION

COSMETOLOGY DEPARTMENT

INFORMATION SHEET

AFTER CARE WAXING INSTRUCTIONS FOR CLIENT

Waxing is the temporary removal of superfluous (unwanted hair). Contrary to

myth, waxing does not promote increased hair growth. Waxing does, however,

exfoliate skin cells at the same time the unwanted hairs are being epilated within

the given treatment area. You may expect some redness and/or puffiness on the

surrounding and treated areas. It is the recommendation that the client follows

the guidelines listed below after the waxing treatment.

1. AVOID the use of any cosmetic products on the treated area for at least

three hours.

2. AVOID products that contain alcohol for at least two hours.

3. AVOID using harsh cleansers or scrubs on treated areas for three days.

4. AVOID sun exposure on treated areas for one week.

5. DO NOT scratch the treated area, as the skin will be sensitive, in general,

DO NOT touch the area with soiled hands and keep your skin clean.

6. DO NOT have the same area waxed for at least 10 days.

7. In case of redness and/or puffiness, using a cold clean towel or ice could

be helpful.

8. DO NOT use any products that contain glycolic acid or retin-A on the area

waxed for at least three days.

9. If you have been using any form of rapid exfoliator like glycolic acid and/or

retin-A on your face, you should avoid waxing until you have stopped

treatment for at least 30 days.

Skin Care Page 79 of 137

Revised 7-01

SC #41 - F#6

CERRITOS COLLEGE TECHNOLOGY DIVISION

COSMETOLOGY DEPARTMENT

INDIVIDUAL LASH APPLICATION Procedure Sheet

Suggested supplies and equipment *Equipment could vary depending where application is performed: Wet sanitizer Tweezers Eye makeup remover Manicure table Cotton swab (clear not to oily) Hand mirror Adhesive tray Eyelash brush Adhesive container Adjustable lamp Eyelash remover Makeup cape (goose neck) Makeup or facial chair Trays of eyelashes Manicure scissors Tissues Trays of eyelashes Eyelash adhesive Eyelid and eyelash Cleaner Allergy Test

Read manufactures direction: 1. Put a drop of adhesive behind one ear.

OR 2. Attach a single eyelash to each eyelid

Within 24 hours if one should have a negative reaction is should probably be safe to proceed with the service. PROCEDURE:

1. Wash hands. 2. Sanitize work area and assemble all sanitized implements to be used. 3. Drape headrest on chair, sit client and adjust headrest and chair to a

comfortable working height. Place sanex strip around neck of client and secure makeup cape in place.

4. Extra light may be required for visibility be sure light is not in shinning in clients eyes.

5. Remove all eye makeup. Lashes must be clean for adhesive to adhere properly. (no oil residue).

6. Remove contact lenses if needed.

Skin Care Page 80 of 137

Revised 7-01

SC #41 - F#6

7. Comb or brush client’s lashes to ensure they are clean and free from and debris this also separates lashes.

8. Discuss with client the length end results of lash application. (Remember a fuller more natural is most attractive)

9. Work from behind or from side of client (avoid working directly in front of client).

10. In the adhesive container apply a small amount of adhesive. This dries very quickly, so only use a little at a time.

11. Use your tweezers to remove lash from tray, hold lash close to the bulb as possible. Once lash is removed, reposition tweezers middle of lash.

12. Brush the underside of lash over adhesive, only a small amount is needed. Remove any excess with fingertip.

13. If client wears glasses it’s suggested to apply center lash first and have client put the glasses on to see if a short lash is necessary.

14. Hold the lash in the tweezers at the same angle to be placed on the natural lash.

15. Where to start application if you are aright handed start outer corner of left eye. If you’re left-handed start outer corner of right eye working to the inner corner. The first couple of lashes in corners of eyes should be shorter to give a more natural appearance.

16. Start by brushing adhesive from th3e underside of the individual lash onto the top of the client’s natural lash. From the base out to the tip.

17. Place the lash as close to but not on the lid, lay the lash on top of the natural lash. Keep tweezers clean of adhesive.

18. Continue application to other eye starting at the outer corner and continue to the inner corner in the same manner as before.

19. For the inside corner it may be necessary to use your thumb of free hand to hold eyelid taut. This will permit proper placement of eyelash. If necessary this same technique can be used for the outer corner of the eye.

20. When applying lashes to the corners of the eyes be sure to separate the upper lashes from the bottom until the adhesive has dried to prevent sticking together.

Skin Care Page 81 of 137

Revised 7-01

SC #41 - F#6

PRODCEDURE FOR LOWER LASHES

1. Client sits facing you. You still work from the side rather than directly in front of them.

2. Client should look upward with eyes WIDE open. 3. Only use short lashes here. 4. Apply adhesive in the same manner as before. Extra adhesive may

Be required on lower lashes to ensure lasting longer. 5. Client will need to keep eyes open for a few extra seconds to allow

adhesive to dry. REMINDER Please advice the client that natural oils from the eyelids tends to dissolve the adhesive. Lower lashes could begin to fall out after one week. Top may last longer depending on the care from the client.

Skin Care Page 82 of 137

5/02

SC #42 - F#6A CERRITOS COLLEGE

TECHNOLOGY DIVISION COSMETOLOGY DEPARTMENT

Individual Eyelashes

Information to share with client

Introduction: Every woman, regardless of age, who wishes to have beautiful eyes can wear individual eyelashes. They are invisibly fastened to ones own lashes with tiny specks of special adhesive. They are almost weightless, permanently curled and available in several different lengths, colors and density. Application is save, simple and painless. Tips for lasting beauty:

1. Minimum weekly refill is suggested for continual fresh eyelash beauty. 2. Three to eight weeks lifetime of one’s own natural lashes. 3. Careless or rough handling will prematurely loosen lashes. 4. Clean with special cleaner. 5. Allow 8 hours for adhesive to dry comply before handling or cleaning. 6. You may Shower, Bathe, Swim, even Sauna. 7. Let eyes dry naturally: Don’t rub. 8. Use dry or water color base eye shadow, but no creams. 9. Mascara and eyelash curlers should not be used. 10. Creams, cream soaps, alcohol or oil-based products should not be used on

lashes. Caution: If for any reason you wish to remove the eyelashes, do not try to pull them off. Ask your operator.

Skin Care Page 83 of 137

7/01

SC #43 - F# 7

CERRITOS COLLEGE TECHNOLOGY DIVISION

COSMETOLOGY DEPARTMENT

STRIP LASH APPLICATION Procedure Sheet

Suggested supplies and equipment *Equipment could vary depending where application is performed: Wet sanitizer Tweezers Cotton swabs Eyelash brushes Eyelash curler Hand mirror Manicure scissors Adjustable light Makeup chair Lash adhesive Adhesive tray Eyelid and lash cleanser Eyelash remover Cotton pads Sanex Eye makeup remover Makeup cape Towel Soiled bag Trash bag PROCEDURE:

1. Wash hands. 2. Sanitize work area and assemble all sanitized implements to be

used. 3. Drape headrest on chair, sit client and adjust headrest and chair

to a comfortable working height. Place sanex around neck of client and secure makeup cape in place.

4. Extra light may be required for visibility. Make sure light is not shinning in client’s eyes.

5. If necessary have client remove contact lenses. Then remove eye makeup gently.

6. Comb or brush client’s lashes to ensure they are clean and free from debris this also separate lashes.

7. If lashes are straight curl prior to applying artificial eyelashes. 8. Consult with client the length and effect that is to be achieve.

(Remember a fuller more natural lash is most attractive) 9. Work from behind or side of client do not stand directly in front

of client. 10. Following manufactures directions carefully remove strip lash from tray.

Skin Care Page 84 of 137

7/01

SC #43 - F# 7

11. Lay strip upon the upper lid to determine width of lash. Cut the outer corner of strip to fit clients eyelid. Your may point cut the tips of the lashes with your scissors to give a feather effect.

12. Using thumb and index finger of both hands bend strip like a horseshoe shape to contour to the eyelid. 13. To feather the lash and give a more natural look point cut the

tips of lashes with scissors. 14. Apply a thin amount of lash adhesive to the strip of the lash let

it set a few seconds before applying to eyelids 15. Start to apply lash with the shorter part of lash to the inside

corner of eyelid. Place the rest of the strip as close to clients own lashes as possible. Use a toothpick to press lash on . (If client is going to wear eyeliner it is recommend liner be applied before lashes).

Lower lash application 1. Trim strip to fit width of lower eyelid. Apply a thin strip of

adhesive just as you did for upper lashes. 2. Place lash of top of client’s lower lashes. Place shorter lashes

towards center of eye and longer lash toward outer corner. REMINDER: Swimming, bathing, showering, cleansing of face can loose artificial

lashes so be CAREFUL. REMOVING ARTIFICIAL STRIP EYELASHES:

1. Commercial pads are available these pads are saturated with lotion to aid in the removal of artificial lashes.

2. Or. Soften by placing a face cloth saturated with warm water and gentle facial cleanser over eyelids

3. Hold pad or cloth over eyes for a few seconds to soften then starting at outer corner pull gently so not to remove any of the client own lashes.

4. Use a cotton swab to remove any adhesive that be remaining on lid.

Skin Care Page 85 of 137

Revised 2/2001 SC #44 – F #8

CERRITOS COLLEGE

TECHNOLOGY DIVISION COSMETOLOGY DEPARTMENT

LASH AND BROW TINTING PROCEDURE

MATERIALS NEEDED Cotton Terry Towel Eye Shields Cleansing cream Sanex Strips Number One Solution Tissues Plastic Shower Cap Number Two Solution Toothpick Swabs Warm Soapy Water Stain Remover Barbie Towels Vaseline Clean Spatula INTRODUCTION This process is a profit making procedure in a salon and doesn’t take long for the process. It is a very good service for women who do not want to wear mascara. INSTRUCTION

1. Set table set-up and the SMA

2. Cover head rest with a Barbie towel and one across the chest 3. Cover client's head with Sanex strip then plastic shower cap.

4. Place the client in a partially reclining position in the facial chair at approximately a 45-

degree angle. (This is so the product will not drip in their eyes.)

5. Instruct client to keep both eyes firmly closed during the entire treatment.

6. Wash the brows and lashes thoroughly with a bland soap and water solution.

7. Place a layer of Vaseline on one side of the eye shields and place under the lower lashes with the Vaseline side against the lower lids.

8. Cover the skin around the brows and lashes with Vaseline. Place Vaseline up to but not on

the hair. (Any part of the brows or lashes that becomes covered with Vaseline will not take coloring.)

9. Wind a very small piece of cotton around the end of a blunt toothpick. Saturate this

applicator with solution #1 and carefully apply to the hair of the brow and lashes. DO NOT TOUCH THE SKIN.

10. Allow solution #1 to dry thoroughly for 3 minutes.

Skin Care Page 86 of 137

Page 2 Lash and Brow Tinting Procedure

11. Saturate new cotton tipped toothpick with solution #2. Treat the eyebrows first and then the lashes with solution #2 sparingly so as not to permit any running. (Do not attempt to tin t the lashes up to the roots.)

12. After thirty seconds, rinse the brows with cotton saturated with a lukewarm bland soap

solution. After one minute, wash the eyelashes with cotton saturated with lukewarm water.

13. If deeper shades are desired, repeat the process on the other eyebrow and eyelashes. IMPORTANT DON’TS

1. DO NOT permit bottles containing solutions to remain open unnecessarily. ALWAYS recap tops as soon as possible.

2. DO NOT mix bottle caps.

3. DO NOT MIX solutions or interchange applicators used. NEVER DIP APPLICATORS that

has been used for applying on solution into the other.

4. DO NOT put back the solution once taken from the bottle. It is desirable to pour out a small amount in a separate container for working purposes. Any attempt to economize will cause spoilage of the whole unit.

5. DO NOT PERMIT AN ACCIDENTAL STAIN TO REMAIN. Apply the solution carefully only

to the areas where tint is desired. Any stain accidentally produced should immediately be removed with soap and water and cotton.

6. DO NOT rub the skin.

7. DO NOT attempt to remove obstinate stains by your own experimentations. For this

purpose used the Lash and Brow Tint Remover (solution # 3).

8. DO NOT give an eyebrow arch less than 24 hours before or after the tint.

9. NEVER use an aniline derivative hair tint on the lashes or brows. TO DO SO, COULD CAUSE BLINDNESS.

NOTE:

If through carelessness of the student or client and the solution gets into the eye, THOROUGHLY WAS THE EYE IMMEDIATELY WITH WATER.

This product contains a metallic salt. It is for external use only and should be used with extreme care.

Skin Care Page 87 of 137

REVISED 5/02

SC #45 F#8 CERRITOS COLLEGE

TECHNOLOGY DIVISION COSMETOLOGY DEPARTMENT

LASH AND BROW TINTING PROCEDURE

MATERIALS NEEDED: Cotton Cleansing Cream Tooth Pick Swabs Number One Solution Stain Remover Two Towels

Kleenex Wet Sterilizer Vaseline Number Two Solution Warm Soapy Water

INTRODUCTION: This process is a profit making procedure in a salon and doesn’t take ling for the process. It is a service that women cannot do for themselves. It is a very good service for women who do not want to wear mascara. INSTRUCTIONS:

1. Cover head rest of chair with paper towel. Place towel over chest of client. 2. Sit client in upright position. Instruct patron to keep both eyes firmly closed

during the entire treatment. 3. Wash the brows and lashes thoroughly with a bland soap and water solution. 4. Place a layer of Vaseline on one side of the eye shields and place under the

lower lashes with the Vaseline side against the lower lids. 5. Cover the skin around the brows and lashes with Vaseline. Place Vaseline up

to but not on the hair. If any part of the brows or lashes become covered with Vaseline will not take the color.

6. Wind a very small piece of cotton around the end of a blunt tooth pick. Saturate this applicator with solution #1 and carefully apply to the hair of the brow and lashes. DO NOT TOUCH THE SKIN.

7. Allow solution #1 to dry thoroughly for 3 minutes. 8. Saturate a new cotton tipped toothpick with solution #2. Treat the eyebrow

first and then the lashes with solution #2 sparingly so as not to permit and running. Don’t attempt to tint the lashes up to the roots.

9. After thirty seconds, wash the brows with cotton saturated with a lukewarm bland soap solution. After on minute, wash the eyelashes with cotton saturated with lukewarm water.

10. If deeper shades are desired, repeat the process.

Skin Care Page 88 of 137

REVISED 5/02

SC #45 F#8 IMPORTANT DON’TS:

1. Don’t permit bottles containing solutions to remain open unnecessarily. Always recap tightly as soon as possible.

2. Don’t mix bottle caps. 3. Don’t mix solutions or interchange applications used. NEVER DIP AN

APPLICATIOR THAT HAS BEEN USED FOR APPLYING ON SOLUTION INTO THE OTHER.

4. Don’t put back any unused solution once taken from the bottle. It is desirable to pour out a small amount in a separate container for working purpose. This will prevent contamination of product.

5. Don’t permit an accidental stain to remain. Apply the solutions carefully only to the areas where tint is desired. Should a stain accidentally be produced one should immediately be removed with soap and water and cotton.

6. Don’t rub the skin. 7. Don’t attempt to remove obstinate stains by your own experimentations. For this

purpose use lash and brow tint remover solution #3. 8. Do not give an eyebrow arch less than 24 hours before or after the tint. 9. Never use a hair dye on the lashes or brows; to do this could cause BLINDNESS. NOTE: If through carelessness of the student or client, solution should get in the eyes, thoroughly wash the eye immediately with water. This product contains a METALLIC salt. It is for external use only and should be used with EXTREME CARE.

Skin Care Page 89 of 137

Revised 9/99 SC #46 – F #12

Word Program: Fund&Def.-Elect(new3/96)

CERRITOS COLLEGE TECHNOLOGY DIVISION

COSMETOLOGY DEPARTMENT

INFORMATION SHEET

FUNDAMENTALS AND DEFINITIONS OF ELECTRICITY

INTRODUCTION: The use of electricity is of paramount importance to those engaged the practice of beauty culture. It would be impossible for a modern salon to function without it. It would be just as nonsensical for a doctor attempting the practice of surgery to remain in ignorance of surgical instruments, as for the cosmetologist to have no knowledge of the functioning of electrical machines, which help to furnish his/her livelihood. Electrical equipment is never dangerous in the hands of intelligent, enlightened technicians. Ignorance is always dangerous regardless of where it exists. Thomas Edison is given credit for establishing the first electrical light and power company in lower New York City in 1879.

PRESENTATION:

There are three very important things, which the cosmetologist must know before purchasing equipment for the beauty salon.

1. Is the electrical current on which the equipment is to be used an alternating or a direct current?

2. If the current is an alternating current, how many times does it alternate per second?

3. How many volts (volt is the unit of force) does the line to which the equipment is to be connected carry?

All these questions must be answered correctly before the purchase is made. Mistakes can be disastrous and costly.

The exact nature of electricity is not yet completely understood. Some claim the term is a derivative of the Greek work elektron others claim it to be from the Latin work electrum, both of which mean ember. It is generally believed that electricity is a form of energy, which when in motion, produces magnetic, chemical, or heat effects. It may be generated for practical use of mechanical apparatus, such as dynamos, generators, and magnetos or chemically in the form of cells and batteries.

Skin Care Page 90 of 137

Page 2 Fundamentals and Definitions of Electricity (Con't)

THE PRODUCTION OF ELECTRICAL CURRENTS MAY BE BETTER UNDERSTOOD IF YOU HAVE AN IDEA HOW THEY OCCUR.

Anything, which occupies space, is called matter. All matter is composed of parts. Parts broken down are called molecules; molecules broken down are atoms. The atom consists of an equal number of electrical particles called protons and electrons. The protons are the positive electrical particles (+). The electrons are the negative electrical particles (-). The electrons move about constantly within the atom. They also pass from one atom to another. These circulating electrons are called free electrons. Some substances may contain a greater number of free electrons than others.

Protons remain stationary within the atoms and are never transferred to other atoms. The passing of the free electrons from one substance to another constitutes what is known as a flow of electricity.

ELECTRICITY VOCABULARY AND DEFINITIONS

1. Electricity is a force of nature present everywhere.

2. Static electricity is electricity at rest.

3. Electrical current is the directed movement of electrons; it is electricity in motion.

4. Magnetic electricity (dynamic) is electricity produced by mechanical means. (batteries, dynamos, magnetos, or generators)

5. Atom is one of the smallest particles of matter. Everything is composed of atoms.

6. Protons are positive electrical particles that make up the center mass or nuclei of an atom. They are stationary and never leave the atom.

7. Electrons are negative electrical particles that are attracted to the central mass of protons and are moving around it constantly.

8. Free electrons are circulating electrons that move from one atom t another because of the greater attraction supplied by another atom. This passage of electrons from one substance to another constitutes what is known as the flow of electricity.

9. Direct Current (D.C.) is a constant and even-flowing current that flows in one direction continuously.

10. Alternating Current (A.C.) is a rapid and interrupted current that flows in one direction at regular intervals. Alternating currents are transmitted to use in cycles or waves of current.

Skin Care Page 91 of 137

Fundamentals and Definitions of Electricity (Con't) Page 3

11. Cycle is a complete revolution of electrical energy consisting of a positive and negative alternations. A 60-cycle current has 60 revolutions or 120 alternations. Also known as frequencies.

12. Volt is unit of pressure, a force of power that drives the electron along a conductor to form a flow of electricity. Volta was the man who discovered this fact.

13. Ampere is the unit of current strength, when an electrical force is passed through resistance and electrical current is produced, it is measured in amperes.

14. Ohm is the unit of resistance. An electrical current is harmless and useless until it meets with resistance. The voltage must be high enough to overcome the resistance in order to produce a reaction. Ohm was the man who discovered resistance.

15. Ohm's Law is as follows: "It requires 1 volt of electromotive force to drive 1 ampere of current strength through 1 ohm of resistance in 1 second of time". [The strength of a current (amperage) equals the pressure (voltage) divided by the resistance (ohm)]. A= V÷ O

16. Watt is the measurement of the rate of power consumed. 1 watt represents the power delivered when the current flows at the rate of 1 ampere with a pressure of 1 volt.

17. Milliampere is one one-thousandth (1/1000) of an ampere. For corrective treatments, the ampere is too strong for bodily application; therefore, it is reduced to the milliamperes.

18. Kilowatt is equivalent to 1000 watts.

19. Condenser is a device used for accumulating electricity.

20. Transformer is a device for changing (either increasing or decreasing) the voltage of an electric current. It can be used only on an alternating current.

21. Rectifier is an appliance to change alternating current to direct current.

22. Converter is an appliance to change direct current to alternating current.

23. Conductor is any substance that will carry an electrical current freely. Good conductors are: silver, copper, carbon, black tin, zinc, (practically all metals) mercury, the human body and watery solutions of acids and salts.

24. Non-conductor is a substance that will not permit an electrical flow through it, such as rubber, asbestos, glass, dry wood, cement, and silk.

25. Insulation is a covering for electrical wires made of some form of non-conducting material (asbestos, silk, or rubber).

Skin Care Page 92 of 137

Page 4 Fundamentals and Definitions of Electricity (Con't)

26. Open Circuit occurs when a break is made in the flow of a current. Interrupted current or disconnected current.

27. Short Circuit occurs when a current is diverted from its regular path by faulty connections (frayed wires, metal contract).

28. Close Circuit occurs when connection is made to allow the uninterrupted flow of electricity.

29. Ground Circuit is one in which one wire is used to deliver current and the other wire carries the current either back to or into the ground, thus relieving the electrical wiring of its overload.

30. Complete Circuit is the entire path traveled by the current from its generating source through various conductors and back to its original source, uninterrupted and in use.

31. Fuse is a device for controlling the current supply. A fuse is made of materials that melt quickly. When it overheats, it melts, and the connection it makes is destroyed; thus the current is cut off, preventing over-heating the electrical wire, which could cause a fire.

32. Circuit Breaker is a type of switch that is operated by an electromagnet. When the electrical line becomes overcharged and the current rises too high for safety, the electromagnet operates the switch and opens the circuit, thus breaking contact with the power line. Its purpose is the same as that of the fuse.

33. Modality modes of producing currents or light rays which are used in the practice of beauty culture.

34. Electrotherapy is the science of treating with electric currents

35. Meter is a measuring device, registering number of units of electrical measurement used: Volt-meters, ampere-meter, ohm-meter, power meter (watts).

36. Polarity is the effects of the current at the poles.

Skin Care Page 93 of 137

Fundamentals and Definitions of Electricity (Con't) Page 5

INFORMATION SHEET

ELECTROTHERAPY

I. GALVANIC MODALITY A. Introduction Galvanic is a direct current with low volt and high amp. It is bi-polar, flowing

from positive to negative and is known as a chemical current, because of its chemical reaction. It has definite polarity.

1. Use: a. For phoresis (ionization--iontophoresis) forcing a liquid into

unbroken skin 1). Anaphoresis a) May be performed to push into the skin b) Attached to negative pole using an alkaline solution 2) Cataphoresis a) Attached to positive pole to pull a positively charged

substance (an acid pH astringent solution) into the skin

2. Polarity Test a. Salt water test 1) Negative pole = more bubbles b. Litmus paper 1) Positive pole changes blue to red c. Meter Test 1) Needle flows to positive side 3. Application a. Carbon or metal electrode on face, client lies on a canvas pad or

holds metal or carbon electrodes b. Metal brush on scalp and client holds long carbon electrode for

scalp treatments 4. PRECAUTIONS: Specific to Galvanic current a. Never use for manipulation (never with wrist electrode) b. Never use over creams c. Five minute application, never lose contact. 5. Actions of Poles of Galvanic Current a. Positive Pole (Anode) b. Negative Pole (Cathode) 1) Has acid reaction 1) Has alkaline reaction 2) Contract pores and glands 2) Relaxes pores and glands 3) Make tissue firmer 3) Softens tissues 4) Is a vaso-constrictor 4) Is a vaso-dilator 5) Attracts oxygen 5) Attracts hydrogen 6) Performs cataphoresis 6) Performs anaphoresis

Skin Care Page 94 of 137

Page 6 Fundamentals and Definitions of Electricity (Con't)

II. HIGH FREQUENCY A. Introduction The Telsa high frequency modality used by cosmetologist has a medium

voltage and amperage. It oscillates 10,000 or more times per second and is considered thermal due to its heat producing qualities.

1. Electrodes used a. Vacuum glass electrodes (air removed) or b. Metal electrode 2. Effects of Tesla a. Stimulates circulation b. Relieves congestion c. Increases glandular activity d. Aids elimination and absorption e. Is germicidal (emission of ozone and nitrous oxide) f. Performs fulguration (removal of wart and moles) by medical field only g. Increases metabolism h. Effect varies with the type of application used 1. Soothing effect a) Produced by direct contact of electrode on skin 2. Stimulating effect a) Produced when given over towel, gauze or clothing b) By lifting electrode 3. Benefits a. Controls dandruff b. Controls oily or dry skin c. Improves acne 4. Methods of Applications a. Direct application (for oily skin or scalp) 1) Scalp Treatments a) Give manipulations before using direct method b) Use glass rake 2) Facial treatment a) Use round facial electrode b) Maximum 5 minutes application b. Indirect application (for dry skin and scalp) 1) Type of electrode used a) Glass electrode

b) Client holds electrode while technician gives massage (dry condition)

c. Auto-condensation (general electrification) 1) Client holds glass electrode without contact from technician a) Very soothing 5. PRECAUTIONS: Specific to High Frequency a. Never use Tesla over inflammable substances b. Never use Tesla too strong and not over 5 minutes c. Always start current slowly and turn up to client's tolerance d. No fulguration (sparking) 1) The strength of current is determined by length of spark

Skin Care Page 95 of 137

Fundamentals and Definitions of Electricity (Con't) Page 7

2) Current is too strong if spark is greater than 1/4 inch e. Place electrode in handle before connecting to wall socket 1) Turn screw to adjust current f. Never when contraindicative to client's health

Skin Care Page 96 of 137

Revised 11/2000 SC #47 - F#13 NAME: __________________________ 21 Fill-ins Questions DATE: __________________________

CERRITOS COLLEGE TECHNOLOGY DIVISION

COSMETOLOGY DEPARTMENT

OPEN BOOK ASSIGNMENT

ELECTRICITY

INSTRUCTIONS: With the aid of your test book, fill-in the blank spaces with the word or words that corresponds or describes the following definitions.

1. _____________________________________ Is a unit of electrical pressure.

2. _____________________________________ Is a constant and even-flowing current, traveling in one direction.

3. _____________________________________ Is an alternating and interrupted current capable of producing a mechanical reaction without a chemical effect.

4. _____________________________________ Is characterized by a high rate of vibration.

5. _____________________________________ May be used instead of hot towels, to cleans and steam the face.

6. _____________________________________ Is an apparatus used to convert a direct current into an alternating current.

7. _____________________________________ Serves as conductors and applicators of electricity to certain areas of the body.

8. _____________________________________ Is a substance, which readily transmits an electric current.

9. _____________________________________ Is a unit of electrical resistance.

10. _____________________________________ Is the pole that is responsible for the following: Acid reaction, soothes nerves, decreases blood supply, and hardens tissues.

11. _____________________________________ Is a safety device, which prevents the overheating of electrical wires.

12. _____________________________________ Is a stream of electrons moving along a conductor.

13. _____________________________________ Is a unit of electrical strength.

14. _____________________________________ Is the entire path traveled by the current from its generating source through various conductors and back to its original source.

15. _____________________________________ Is the use of the positive pole to introduce a positive charged substance into the skin.

16. _____________________________________ Is a constant and direct current generated by a direct current.

17. _____________________________________ Selects the amount of current used.

18. _____________________________________ Is a rapid and interrupted current, flowing first in one direction and then in the opposite direction.

Skin Care Page 97 of 137

-2-

19. _____________________________________ Chooses the type of current required.

20. _____________________________________ Is the pole that is responsible for the following: Alkaline reaction, irritates nerves, increases blood supply, and softens tissues.

21. _____________________________________ Chemical solutions being forced into the unbroken skin by a means of galvanic current.

Skin Care Page 98 of 137

Revised 10/94 SC #48- F 14

CERRITOS COLLEGE TECHNOLOGY DIVISION

COSMETOLOGY DEPARTMENT

INFORMATION SHEET

GENERAL SAFETY PRECAUTIONS TO BE FOLLOWED ON ALL ELECTRICAL OPERATIONS

1. Disinfect all electrodes properly.

2. Do not operate any electrical equipment without first reading the manufacturers instructions and check with instructor.

3. Do not go out of the room and leave a client attached to any electrical appliance or exposed to any lamp.

4. Do not allow client to come in direct contact with any metal (radiators, gas, or water pipes) when using electrical current.

5. Do not handle any electrical equipment with wet hands.

6. NEVER turn the current so high as to cause discomfort.

7. Stop any electrical treatment that causes any degree of pain.

8. NEVER use high frequency currents over an oil or tonic containing combustibles (alcohol) because it may cause sparking.

9. ALWAYS cover the client's eyes with cotton pads when using dermal lights.

10. NEVER use heat rays where there is an accumulation of pus (inflammation).

11. Carefully observe the correct timing and distance of lamp when using dermal lights.

12. Do not overload electrical circuits.

13. Use a fuse of the right capacity.

14. Do not apply any electric modality on any client with a cardiac condition or metal implants.

15. Disconnect all electrical appliances when you are finished using them, store cords up and out of the way.

16. To disconnect the cord, grasp the end in the wall socket and pull. NEVER unplug the cord by pulling on the cord, you may cause an electrical shock to yourself or the client.

Skin Care Page 99 of 137

Revised 10/94 SC #48- F 14 Page 2 17. Examine cords regularly to ensure safe use of machinery. Repair and replace as

needed.

18. Electrical equipment shall not be used to stimulate so as to contract, or for the purpose of contracting the muscles of the body or face.

19. Do not allow the client to have a manicure or pedicure while having an electrical treatment with any type of current. It is permissible while using light rays.

20. Advance and decrease current slowly

21. Do no allow yourself or your client to come in contact with metal when using high frequency, a stinging sensation would be felt.

22. ALWAYS use goggles, both client and technician, when using ultra violet rays.

Skin Care Page 100 of 137

Revised 8/2000 SC #49 - F15

CERRITOS COLLEGE TECHNOLOGY DIVISION

COSMETOLOGY DEPARTMENT

INFORMATION SHEET

TYPES OF ELECTRICAL FACIALS

MODALITIES CURRENT

CLASSIFICATION PRODUCED

BY

AMPERAGE And

VOLTAGE ELECTRODES EFFECTS

TESLA HIGH FREQUENCY Thermal A.C. Medium Volt

Medium Amp Glass or Metal

Promotes growth of hair. Germicidal. Stimulates sebaceous, sudoriferous and lymph glands

GALVANIC Chemical D.C.

Low Voltage High Amperage

Bi-polar constant

Definite Polarity

Carbon Ball Carbon Rod Canvas Pad

POSITIVE

Closes pores, Decreases blood & sweat oils, Germicidal, Hardens tissues, Soothes

NEGATIVE

Open pores, Increases blood, Lymph, Sweat & Oil glands, Softens tissues, Irritating

FARADIC Mechanical A.C.

High Voltage, Low Amperage, Non-determined

polarity

Carbon Rod Wrist Electrode

Canvas Pad

Stimulation, Muscle toning, Re-energizing the body, Increases blood supply and Glandular activity

SINUSODIAL Mechanical A.C.

Low Voltage, Low Amperage, Non-determined

polarity

Carbon rod Wrist Electrode

Canvas Pad

Similar to Faradic, Deeper penetration, Smoother current, More soothing

DERMAL LIGHTS

CURRENT CLASSIFICATION

PRODUCED BY

TIME & DISTANCE

ELECTRODES EFFECTS

WHITE LIGHTS Has some effects of each type, mostly heat.

Ray 10 – 12 Minutes 15 inches

Special White bulb, Tungsted filament

Relieves pain & Produces heat

BLUE LIGHTS Chemical astringent Ray 3 – 5 minutes 10 – 12 inches

Blue Bulb Antiseptic effects, Soothing effect on nerves

ULTRA VIOLET Chemical Germicidal Ray

2 – 3 minutes increasing to 7 – 8 minutes 30 – 36 inches

Violet Bulb Hot Quartz

Chemical & Germicidal, Stimulates activity and growth of body cells. (Too much ultra violet ray can destroy cell tissues)

INFRARED LIGHTS

Heat Producing Ray 5 minutes 24 – 30 inches

Special Infra Bulb

Increases metabolism, Relieves pain, Increases oxidation in tissues

RED LIGHTS Heat Producing Ray 5 minutes 24 – 30 inches

Special Red Bulb Increases glandular activity, Increases flow of blood, Relaxes derma tissue

Skin Care Page 101 of 137

Revised 11-2000 SC #50- F#16

File Name: SC #50 - F #16 High Frequency Info Sheet

CERRITOS COLLEGE TECHNOLOGY DIVISION

COSMETOLOGY DEPARTMENT

INFORMATION SHEET

HIGH FREQUENCY CURRENT

INTRODUCTION:

There are three types of high frequency current: D'Arsonval, Oudin (oo'din) and Tesla currents, named after their respective discoverers. These currents are characterized by a high rate of vibration, ranging from 10,000 or more cycles per second. The one of most interest to the cosmetologist is the Tesla current, commonly, called violet ray. The other two types are used in the practice of medicine.

PRESENTATION:

The Tesla current is of medium voltage and medium amperage. It can be connected to either the direct or alternating current. The action of the current is thermal, or heat producing. There are no muscular contractions, because of the rapid vibrations of the current. The effects of the Tesla high frequency current are either stimulating or soothing, depending on the method of application. There is only one treatment terminal used with Tesla high frequency. The circuit is completed through the client and ground. The treatment time is from 5 - 10 minutes. The high frequency current should not be used over inflammable tonics or lotions (high alcohol content). Danger of combustion.

THREE METHODS OF USING TESLA HIGH FREQUENCY CURRENT:

1. Direct surface application: The cosmetologist holds the electrode (glass rake or facial bulb) and applies it

over the client's skin. 2. Indirect application: The client holds the metal or glass cylinder electrode in his/her hand, while

the cosmetologist uses his/her fingers to massage the surface being treated. This draws the high frequency current through the skin and tissues to the cosmetologist's fingertips. (Current turned off before removing the electrode from the client's hand.)

3. General electrification: The client holds the metal or glass electrode in his/her hand (without the

technician touching the client), charging the entire body with electrical energy. This produces sedative, calming, or soothing effects.

AUTO CONDENSATION:

A general body application employed by the medical profession only.

Skin Care Page 102 of 137

Page 2 High Frequency Current (Con't)

FULGURATION:

The removal of growths such as warts and moles by means of sparks of high frequency current. The cosmetologist should not attempt this type of treatment, as it does not come under the province of beauty culture service.

BENEFITS OF TESLA HIGH FREQUENCY: 1. Stimulates circulation of the blood.

2. Relieves congestion - aids in elimination and absorption.

3. Increases glandular activity.

4. Increases metabolism.

5. Germicidal (releases ozone and nitrous oxide).

USES OF TESLA HIGH FREQUENCY:

1. Falling hair

2. Dandruff

3. Excessively oily or dry skin and scalp

4. Black and blue spots

5. Acne

6. Eczema

7. Psoriasis

8. Baldness

9. Tight scalp

CHECK-UP

1. The Tesla current is commonly called:

a. D'Arsonval Current c. low frequency current b. violet ray d. infrared ray 2. A glass electrode giving off sparks operates on:

a. Galvanic current c. sinusoidal current b. Faradic current d. high frequency current 3. A current having 10,000 or more cycles per second is called:

a. a low frequency current c. a direct current b. a high frequency current d. an alternating current 4. For a stimulating effect, the high frequency electrode is:

a. slightly lifted from the skin c. held by client b. kept in close contact with the skin d. turned very low

Skin Care Page 103 of 137

Revised 7/98

SC #51 – F#17 CERRITOS COLLEGE

TECHNOLOGY DIVISION COSMETOLOGY DEPARTMENT

PROCEDURE SHEET

HOW TO GIVE A HIGH FREQUENCY FACIAL

(Direct Method - Oily Skin) (Indirect Method - Dry Skin)

INTRODUCTION

High Frequency Facial is a type of facial, given with an electrical apparatus called a

High Frequency Unit. It is called High Frequency because the current alternates very

rapidly. This current alternates so rapidly that it does not stimulate motor or sensory

nerves. It has a frequency of more than 10,000 cycles per second. There are two

methods of applying High Frequency, direct and indirect. Direct High Frequency is

an external application, which dries refines and heals the skin. It produces a

germicidal effect, through ozone formation at the skin's surface via the glass electrode

applied. The Indirect High Frequency passes through the surface of the body and

produces a stimulating, anti-congestive effect, with no chemical formation on the

skin's surface as in the direct method of application. High Frequency has an irritating

noise, produced during the application, and so every attempt should be made to put

the client at ease, prior to the application so that she can gain maximum benefit. The

current is sometimes referred to as "violet ray", not to be confused with ultra violet.

The High Frequency is called this because of the violet hue which is emitted when

the unit is turned on.

MATERIALS NEEDED

paper towels (2) labeled disposal bag terry towel (2) tape tissue safety pins (2) sanitary maintenance area High Frequency Unit cotton sanek glass bulb electrode astringent body drape massage cream head drape cleansing cream

EQUIPMENT CHECK

a. Without plugging in, insert glass electrodes firmly and carefully into unit

b. Turn all dials to "0" especially Rheostat, if no "0", turn to off position.

c. Check to see that the machine is in safe and working order, and that all apparatus

are in safe and working condition.

d. Chairs should be checked for safety and operation. Be aware of metal.

Skin Care Page 104 of 137

Page 2 How to Give a High Frequency Facial (Con't)

PROCEDURE - DIRECT METHOD

(Oily Skin)

SANITIZE TECHNICIANS HANDS, AND RE-SANITIZE AS NECESSARY.

a. Drape Client

b. Sanitize hands again

c. Recline Client

d. Cleanse the Skin

PREPARATION FOR HIGH FREQUENCY DIRECT METHOD (Oily skin)

a. Apply massage cream - sufficient massage cream should be spread over areas to

be massaged.

b. Manipulations must be given on skin of face, neck, shoulder, and upper chest

area.

c. Using the cream gives a more soothing, relaxing effect during the treatment.

d. This method must be used for STATE BOARD.

e. Another method is to apply talcum powder to the face. Shake powder onto a

piece of cotton, and apply to face. This permits a smooth passage of electrodes

over the contours, and to absorb the natural secretions formed during treatment.

Talc gives a more superficial but stimulating action. PREPARE HIGH FREQUENCY UNIT

a. Be sure Unit is unplugged.

b. Turn knobs to off position.

c. Place electrode in unit; slowly and carefully.

d. Plug unit in and turn to the units lowest current. A noise will occur and it will

start emitting a violet cast from the electrode.

APPLY HIGH FREQUENCY CURRENT DIRECTLY TO THE AREAS TO BE

TREATED, DO NOT spark at all during the treatment.

a. To keep from sparking place finger quickly on the glass electrode before applying

to face.

b. Then apply to the face and remove finger.

c. Move electrode around on the area, to be treated.

d. Apply the treatment for approximately 5 minutes or less.

e. Do not break contact during the treatment, a spark will occur.

f. To remove the bulb from the face, place finger on bulb and lift up.

Skin Care Page 105 of 137

How to Give a High Frequency Facial (Con't) Page 3

REMOVE MASSAGE CREAM WITH TISSUES OR WET TOWELS.

TIGHTEN PORES

a. Use cold towels or astringent to close pores.

b. Use caution when applying astringent near eyes.

CLEAN UP

a. All materials and supplies should be put away.

b. Work area should be wiped clean.

PRECAUTIONS - CONTRA-INDICATIVE TO HIGH FREQUENCY TREATMENT

1. High strung clients of a nervous disposition.

2. Epileptics

3. Asthmatics

4. Extremely Vascular skin conditions

5. Skin infections, Adolescent acne may be treated directly with medical approval.

6. Clients undergoing treatment for defective circulation, edema (swelling), high

blood pressure, etc.

7. Pregnancy

8. Pace maker

9. Metal implants

10. Do not allow client to come in contact with metal

Skin Care Page 106 of 137

Page 4 How to Give a High Frequency Facial (Con't)

PROCEDURE - INDIRECT METHOD

(Dry Skin)

SANITIZE TECHNICIANS HANDS, AND RE-SANITIZE AS NECESSARY

a. Drape Client

b. Sanitize hands again

c. Recline Client

d. Cleanse the Skin

PREPARATION FOR HIGH FREQUENCY INDIRECT METHOD (Dry skin)

a. Be sure Unit is unplugged.

b. Turn knobs to off position.

c. Place electrode in unit; slowly and carefully. Then plug in unit.

d. Have client hold generator and touch the electrode.

e. Apply massage cream - sufficient massage cream should be spread over areas to

be massaged.

f. Manipulations will be given on skin of face, neck, shoulder, and upper chest area

while client holds the High Frequency unit.

g. Place one hand on the client and turn to the units lowest current. Then turn the

current on slowly and a noise will occur. It will start emitting a violet cast from

the electrode.

h. Give a complete massage.

i. Turn unit off

REMOVE MASSAGE CREAM WITH TISSUES OR WET TOWELS.

TIGHTEN PORES

a. Use cold towels or astringent to close pores.

b. Use caution when applying astringent near eyes.

CLEAN UP

a. All materials and supplies should be put away.

b. Work area should be wiped clean.

Skin Care Page 107 of 137

How to Give a High Frequency Facial (Con't) Page 5

CONTRA-INDICATION TO HIGH FREQUENCY TREATMENT

1. High strung clients of a nervous disposition.

2. Epileptics

3. Asthmatics

4. Extremely Vascular skin conditions

5. Skin infections, Adolescent acne may be treated directly with medical approval.

6. Clients undergoing treatment for defective circulation, edema (swelling), high

blood pressure, etc.

7. Pregnancy

8. Pace maker

9. Metal implants

Skin Care Page 108 of 137

Revised 3/00

SC #52 -F #18 CERRITOS COLLEGE

TECHNOLOGY DIVISION COSMETOLOGY DEPARTMENT

WOOD LAMP

INFORMATION SHEET The wood lamp is an ultra violet light with a glass filter to stop the radiation given off the black light. The guidelines list below should be followed when using the wood lamp:

1. THOROUGLY cleans the skin 2. Completely darken the room

a. Some wood lamps come with a shield that goes over lamp and client face to darken the area to be examined.

3. Turn on lamp allow 1 minute for it to start emitting light. 4. Place it 8” from skin to observe the colors the skin manifest.

COLORS AND INDICATIONS

Blush white normal-healthy White spots thick horny layer (dead skin cells) Dark purple thin tender dehydrated Light purple dry skin Orange coral comedone-oily seborrhea Brown spots accumulated pigment change from sunlight damage.

Skin Care Page 109 of 137

Revised 1/2001 SC #53- F#19

CERRITOS COLLEGE TECHNOLOGY DIVISION

COSMETOLOGY DEPARTMENT

PROCEDURE SHEET

HOW TO GIVE A STANDARD ELECTRICAL FACIAL (Using Galvanic Modality)

MATERIALS NEEDED:

Same as for a plain facial with the addition of the galvanic modality and its electrodes.

INTRODUCTION:

The electrical facial may be varied to suit the client's need. Galvanic current produces a chemical effect. The effects of the currents upon the body must be clearly understood before attempting to give an electrical facial.

PROCEDURE: 1. Assemble materials and drape client. 2. Prepare electrodes for use with the Galvanic current. a. Wrap both electrodes with cotton moistened with water. b. Client lies on canvas pad or holds a metal electrode; the

cosmetologist uses a carbon ball or metal electrode as the active electrode.

3. Apply cleansing cream and remove thoroughly. 4. Apply negative Galvanic - 5 to 7 minutes. a. Roll carbon ball electrode (wrapped with cotton moisten with

water) lightly over the face for 5 to 7 minutes. b. Concentrate on comedome areas. c. Alkaline solution may replace water for disencrustation. 5. Steam should be applied if extractions are to be done. 6. Apply (massage) cream. 7. Give massage 8. Remove massage cream. 9. OPTIONAL: Mask may be used.

Skin Care Page 110 of 137

How to Give a Standard Electrical Facial (Galvanic) (Con't) Page 2

File Name: SC #53 - F #19 How to Give Galvanic Facial

10. Use positive Galvanic with cotton moistened with an astringent – two

(2) to four (4) minutes. Concentrate on large pore areas. 11. Apply moisturizer prior to make-up application. SAFETY PRECAUTIONS: 1. Have instructor check before you turn current on. 2. Do not break contact with client while current is turned on. 3. Advance and decrease current slowly, so you do not cause client

discomfort. 4. Never turn current so high as to be painful to client or

cosmetologist. Strength of one milliampere recommended. 5. Do not use the negative Galvanic current over skin having broken

capillaries or a pustular acne condition. 6. Client and cosmetologist remove watch and large rings. 7. Electrical modalities should never be used on client who has health

problems that are contraindicative such as: pace maker, heart problems, high blood pressure, epilepsy, pregnancy, fitted with an IUD, metal implants, or other health problems should be discussed.

8. Clinical profile must be done prior to service.

Skin Care Page 111 of 137

Revised 3/00 SC #54 -F # 20

CERRITOS COLLEGE TECHNOLOGY DIVISION

COSMETOLOGY DEPARTMENT

SAFETY PRECAUTIONS FOR USE OF LIGHT THERAPY

1. Never use heat rays over accumulation of pus (inflammation)

2. Always cover client’s eyes with moistened cotton eye pads.

3. Careful to observe timing and distance.

4. Do not handle electrical equipment with wet hands.

5. Do not leave the room when client is exposed to a lamp or connected to any electrical appliance.

6. Disconnect and store cord of all electrical appliances when finished using

them.

7. Never unplug by pulling the cord. Grasp the end in the wall socket. REMEMBER: COLOR INCHES MINUTES RED 24” – 30” 5 BLUE 10” – 12” 3 – 5 WHITE 15” 10 - 12

Skin Care Page 112 of 137

Revised 1/2006 SC #55- F#21 CERRITOS COLLEGE

TECHNOLOGY DIVISION COSMETOLOGY DEPARTMENT

LIGHT THERAPY INFORMATION SHEET

Light therapy is a treatment by means of light rays. In the beauty industry, we are concerned with only three of many light rays. One is a heat producing ray such as the infrared rays another is the ultra-violet rays, which give a chemical and germicidal reaction visible light, all that is contained within the spectrum of the sun. Natural sunshine is composed of 35% visible light, 5% is ultraviolet rays and, 60% is infrared rays. Invisible rays make up 65% of natural sunlight. Infrared produce no light, only a red glow when active. The visible rays or dermal lights as you will hear reference to are reproduced by carbon or tungsten filament in clear glass bulbs. They produce white, red or blue light. The client’s eyes should always be protected with cotton eye pads moistened with eye protection solution during light ray treatments. If using ultra-violet rays, safety goggles should be worn by both client and technician.

PROCEDURE DRY SKIN The red dermal light (infrared is 60% of the natural sunlight), recommended for Dry skin. Its effect is soothing, relaxes, increases circulation and metabolism, and also helps in absorption. NEVER! USE OVER PUSTULES OR INFLAMATION.

1. Cleanse 2. Prepare gauze/cheese cloth (cut slits for eyes, nose, and mouth). 3. Prepare gauze/cheese cloth with oil and apply. 4. Apply moisten eye pads. 5. Apply RED dermal light approximately 24”-30” away from face and for 3 to

5 minutes. 6. Break the heat every 30 – 40 seconds. 7. Remove and properly dispose of mask. Apply massage cream or more oil. 8. Give massage. 9. Remove cream or oil. 10. Apply astringent or cold towel. 11. Clean up and sanitize area.

*REMEMBER to move hand back and forth to break up rays.

Skin Care Page 113 of 137

Light Therapy Procedure page 2

PROCEDURE FOR OILY SKIN

The blue dermal light is 12% of the spectrum, recommend for Oily skin. Its effects are germicidal, used for mild skin eruptions.

1. Cleanse 2. Steam 3. Extract (wear gloves), moistened cotton or gauze on finger pads. 4. Apply antiseptic (sponge technique). 5. Apply moistened eye pads. 6. Apply blue dermal light on bare skin approximately 10” – 12” away from

face for 3 –5 minutes. Break the heat with your hand. 7. Apply cream. 8. Give massage. 9. Remove cream, and then apply astringent or cold towel. 10. Clean up and sanitize area.

*REMEMBER to move hand back and forth to break up rays.

PROCEDURE FOR NORAL SKIN The white dermal light is 12% of the spectrum, recommend for Normal skin. Its effects are relaxation, relives pain, slightly germicidal.

1. Cleanse 2. Apply moistened eye pads. 3. Apply white dermal light approximately 15” form skin for 10 – 12 minutes.

Break heat with hand. 4. Apply cream and massage. 5. Remove cream, apply astringent or cold towel. 6. Clean up and sanitize area.

*REMEMBER to move hand back and forth to break up rays.

Skin Care Page 114 of 137

Re SC #56 - F#22

Page 1 of 6

Cerritos College Technology Division

Cosmetology Department

SKIN ANALYSIS Preliminary Steps 1. Place a towel over the hair to protect it. 2. Apply eye pads dampened with freshener or water. What to look for: 1. Look at each part of her face and neck separately, eyes, forehead, check, nose, chin, and throat. There may be differences in each area that will give a clue to specific requirements of her skin. 2. Study the overall texture of the skin. Are the pores large or small? Are they different in some areas from others? Are there any blackheads or other types of clogged pores? 3. Check for oily and/or dry areas on the face. Is the “T” zone (across the forehead, down the nose to the chin) different from the cheek area? 4. Search carefully for broken capillaries and scaly dead skin cells. 5. Determine the elasticity and strength of the skin in various areas by gently lifting the tissue between thumb and middle finger and releasing it. Does the skin spring back to its original form immediately or does it seem to slide slowly back into place? 6. Ask pertinent questions of your client during your examination of her/his skin. “Does your makeup last all day? (if a female). Do you have occasional blemishes? How does your face feel in the morning? in mid- afternoon? in the evening? Analysis Follow-up 1. Now is the time to briefly discuss with your client what you have noted about his/her skin as well as the types of products and professional services he/she will need to make her skin constantly healthy and glowing in appearance. 2. Then, remind the client that there are four fundamentals to skin care that pertains to all skin types. They are: Cleanliness – Lubrication – Protection – Stimulation

Skin Care Page 115 of 137

Re SC #56 - F#22

Page 2 of 6

CHARACTERISTICS OF SKIN TYPES SKIN CHART

OILY SKIN: Appearance…………………………..Thick, hard, shiny, slightly toneless Pore Size……………………………...Enlarge, wide, open Elasticity…………………………… Can be restored if pores are cleansed of debris Feel……………………………………Oily, moist Sebaceous……………………………..Overactive Visible Texture………………………..Coarse NORMAL SKIN: Appearance……………………………..Velvety, matte-like; good pigmentation, healthy Pore Size………………………………...Small Elasticity……………………………… Very good Feel…………………………………… Very good, supple, cushiony Sebaceous……………………………….Neither too active nor too slow Visible Texture…………………………Soft to touch, smooth to eye DRY SKIN: Appearance…………………………….Smooth, fine grained, often flaked, wrinkled or parched Pore Size……………………………… Very fine with no visible open pores Elasticity………………………………. Lacking Feel……………………………………. Tight, tend to roughen in harsh weather Sebaceous Gland Activity…………… Insufficient Visible Texture…………………………Coarse

Skin Care Page 116 of 137

Re SC #56 - F#22

Page 3 of 6

MATURING SKIN: Appearance…………………………..Lined, wrinkled, sallow with lack of pigmentation Pore size……………………………..Usually fine Elasticity…………………………….Lacking or relaxed Feel…………………………………..Somewhat dry Sebaceous……………………………Deficient Visible Texture……………………….Relaxed muscle tone, limp COMBINATIONS SKIN: Appearance…………………………..Shiny in “T” zone, normal in other areas Pore size…………………………… Larger and prone to black heads in “T” zone, small and fine in other areas Elasticity……………………………Good to lacking, depending on area Feel…………………………………Depending on area, tight or moist Sebaceous Gland Activity………… Increased in “T” zone, reduced on outer areas Visible Texture…………………….Combination, smooth in “T” zone coarse in cheek area

DEEP PORE CLEANSING

1. Clean face with cleanser 2. Put client under Magic Mist V 3. After approximately seven minutes, you may proceed to vacuum while the Magic Mist is on 4. Using the Galvodrem, proceed to disencrustation 5. Squeeze out any impurities 6. Brush with Honey & Almond scrub. Remove 7. Massage following massage movements 8. Pass High Frequency over massage cream. Remove 9. Apply mask according to the type of skin 10. Spray face with astringent 11. Moisturize

Skin Care Page 117 of 137

Re SC #56 - F#22

Page 4 of 6

MOISTURIZING TREATMENT

1. Cleanse skin with cleaner 2. Put client under Magic Mist 3. While Magic Mist is on, give the lent a massage with a rich moisturizing creme such as our Crème Biogenique 4. Tissue any excess 5. Use galvoderm unit for penetration (#2) using one of the following or in combination: a) Vitamin E b) Crème #24 c) Neck & Wrinkle Crème d) Bio Wrinkle Crème e) Biogenique Crème 6. Proceed with your massage movement. Tissue excess 7. Pass High Frequency over massage crème 8. Remove crème and spray with freshener 9. Apply masque according to skin type. Remove 10. Spray with astringent 11. Moisturize

MINI FACIAL

Personality, Individuality, and Salesmanship…..these are the keys to success in the field of aesthetics. The difference between a skin specialty and an aesthetician lies in the realization that anyone could learn about the skin, but not everyone could become an expert. Time and experience are essential. Without having the presumption to be first, although we have been, we have found that it is very important for the beauty salon operator, shop owner to start with very simple methods which prove to be both profitable and prestige builders. Therefore, it is our pleasure to introduce to you the following Mimi Facial:

TECHNIQUE

1. Cleanse the skin with a mild based product 2. Apply a scrub such as a Honey & Almond Scrub 3. Brush onto face 4. Remove scrub 5. Proceed to vacuum 6. Apply mask (remove after 10 minutes) 7. Spray with a freshener 8. Moisturize 9. Face is now ready for make-up consultation

Skin Care Page 118 of 137

Re SC #56 - F#22

Page 5 of 6

ACNE TREATMENT

There are many types of acne juvenile, but these are the most common: a. Indurata – deep set pimples with hard tubercles occurring chiefly on the neck and back b. Pustulosa – acne in which the pustular lesions predominate c. Acne Vulgaris – the most common acne in teenagers. Acne vulgaris is a chronic inflammatory disease of the sebaceous glands, occurring most frequently on the face, back and chest

CAUSES

A chemical change in the body attached to the period of time from adolescence to adulthood is the cause of acne. This is the period of time when the organisms of the body are activated, primarily the endocrine system, the ovaries, the sebaceous glands, and the sudoriferous glands. Forms of pimples begin to appear. These lesions occur at a time when the person wants to be more attractive, when he/she is becoming aware of his/her body. He/she tries to remedy the situation by squeezing which causes scars under the skin and permanent surface marks.He/she indulges in product that are not indicated for his/her skin type. Instead of helping this condition, he/she aggravates it.

WHAT AN ESTHETICIAN CAN DO If at all possible, get the mother out of the room. Try to take the mother aside and explain that you need to establish and one-to-one communication with the teenager. This is the consultation period. The purpose of the consultation period is to try to find out the teenagers habits, how much sleep he/she gets, how much exercise, what he/she eats, what, if any emotional problems he/she may have. Then it is best to explain the following points: First-explain to the teenager that she or he is going through a temporary phase and that most other people have had to go through it, too. Explain that the important thing is to look as attractive as possible while this phase lasts-and above all, to avoid injuring the skin and causing scars. Second-explain that acne has nothing to do with sex. Boys, especially, hear a lot of silly unscientific talk about acne being connected with sex and masturbation. Their feelings of insecurity and guilt about sex can greatly increase the emotional tension that contributes to acne. Third- explain that the bet way to care for acne is to keep the pores open and clean. To stop squeezing pimples because the results are hidden scars, under the skin, that makes it lumpy and irregular, even if no surface scars result.

Skin Care Page 119 of 137

Re SC #56 - F#22

Page 6 of 6

TREATMENT

1. Cleanse the face with a milk base product, changing cotton pads when moving from one side of the face to the other 2. Put client under Magic Mist for approximately 20 minutes. The act of oxygen will begin to open the pores and disinfect them which means it helps to eliminate toxins from the skin surface, increase the supply of nourishment to the skin cells, softens oil deposits, thus representing and indispensable means of thoroughly cleaning the skin 3. After the third visit, you may proceed with the Galvoderm for disencrustation, bringing out all the impurities. It is elementary that in any electrical current the positive ions are attracted to the negative ions. Through the use of the galvanic current we can use a gentle deep cleansing of the pores 4. Tissue the infection. Be sure to change tissues frequently. Keep handy a cotton ball, soaked in blemish lotion for the purpose of disinfecting the area just cleaned 5. Return client to Magic Mist V for five minutes longer. The purpose of this is to safeguard against the internal spread of infection 6. Apply a mask with drying agent primarily containing camphor, zinc, oxide, etc. 7. High Frequency – to close pores and produce a high germicidal effect 8. Spray the face with special astringent 9. Moisturize with water based lotion-apply sparingly!

Skin Care Page 120 of 137

REVISED 5/08 SC #57 - F #23

1 Skin diseases:

2 Acute disease:

3 Chronic disease:

4 Infectious disease:

5 Contagious disease:

6 Congential disease:

CERRITOS COLLEGE

TECHNOLOGY DIVISION

COSMETOLOGY DEPARTMENT

General Diseases and Related terms of the Skin

Skin Care Page 121 of 137

REVISED 5/08 SC #57 - F #23

7 Occupational disease:

8 Parasitic disease

9 Seasonal diseases:

10 Systemic disease:

11 Verneral disease:

12 Epidemic:

13 Allergy:

Skin Care Page 122 of 137

REVISED 5/08 SC #57 - F #23

14 Lesion:

15 Primary:

16 Secondary lesion:

17 Subjective sympton:

18 Objective symptom:

1 Macule:

Primary and Secondary Lesions

Primary Lesions

Skin Care Page 123 of 137

REVISED 5/08 SC #57 - F #23

2 Papule:

3 Wheal:

4 Tubercle:

5 Tumor:

6 Vesicle:

7 Bulla:

8 Pustule:

Skin Care Page 124 of 137

REVISED 5/08 SC #57 - F #23

9 Cyst:

1 Scale:

2 Crust:

3 Encoriation:

4 Fissure:

5 Ulcer:

6 Stain:

Secondary Lesions

Primary and Secondary Lesions

Skin Care Page 125 of 137

REVISED 5/08 SC #57 - F #23

7 Scar:

8 Keloid:

1 Acne:

2 Comedones:

3 Milia:

4 Steatoma or Wen:

Common Skin Problems Related to Sebaceous and Sudorifeous Glands

Sebaceous Glands

Skin Care Page 126 of 137

REVISED 5/08 SC #57 - F #23

5 Asteatosis:

6 Seborrhea:

7 Rosacea:

1 Hyperdrosis:

2 Anidrosis:

3 Bromidrosis:

4 Miliara Rubra:

Sudoriferous Glands

Skin Care Page 127 of 137

REVISED 5/08 SC #57 - F #23

1 Dermatities:

2 Exczema:

3 Herpes simples:

4 Psoriasis:

5 Dandruff-Pityriasis Capitis:

1 Lentigines:

2 Vitiligo:

Other Problems

Pigment, New Growth and Parasites of the Skin

Skin Care Page 128 of 137

REVISED 5/08 SC #57 - F #23

3 Chloasma:

4 Leucoderma:

5 Naevris

6 Stain:

7 Albinism:

1 Keratoma:

2 Mole:

New Growths

Skin Care Page 129 of 137

REVISED 5/08 SC #57 - F #23

3 Melanoma:

4 Verruca:

1 Carbuncle:

2 Furncle:

1 Tinea capitis:

2 Tinea:

Staph Infections

Parasites

Skin Care Page 130 of 137

REVISED 5/08 SC #57 - F #23

3 Scabies:

4 Pediculosis capitis:

Skin Care Page 131 of 137

1 Macule:

2 Papule:

3 Wheal:

4 Tubercule:

5 Tumor:

6 Vesicle:

7 Bulla:

8 Pustule:

9 Cyst:

PRIMARY LESIONS

Skin Care Page 132 of 137

1 Scale:

2 Crust:

3 Encoriation:

4 Fissure:

5 Ulcer:

6 Stain:

7 Scar:

8 Keloid:

SECONDARY LESIONS

Skin Care Page 133 of 137

1 Acne:

2 Comedones:

3 Milia:

4 Steatoma or wen:

5 Asteatosis:

6 Seborrhea:

7 Rosacea:

Common Skin Problems Related to Sebaceous Glands

Skin Care Page 134 of 137

1 Hyperdrosis:

2 Anidrosis:

3 Bromidrosis:

4 Miliara rubra:

1 Dermatities:

2 Exczema:

3 Herpes simplex:

4 Psoriasis:

5 Dandruff-Pityriasis capitis:

Common Skin Problems Related to Sudoriferous Glands

Other Problems

Skin Care Page 135 of 137

1 Lentiginers:

2 Vitiligo:

3 Chloasma:

4 Leucoderma:

5 Naevris:

6 Stain:

7 Albinism:

1 Keatoma:

2 Mole:

PIGMENT

NEW GROWTHS

Skin Care Page 136 of 137

3 Melanoma:

4 Verruca:

1 Carbuncle:

2 Furncle:

1 Tinea capilis:

2 Tinea:

3 Scabies:

4 Pediculosis:

STAPH INFECTIONS

PARASITES

Skin Care Page 137 of 137