Savoie Mont Blanc Magazine N°2 - Summer 2009

1 MAG SAVOIE-MONT BLANC N°5

GREAT LAKES, VANOISE NATIONAL PARK, ROMANTIC MID-SIZE RANGES, SUMMER ACTIVITIES, SPORTS, GLORIOUS TOWNS, WINES AND CHEESES...

#2SUMMER 2009

SAVOIE MONT BLANC’S SUMMER FEAST

FRANCE

PARIS

LONDRES

GENES

ROME

BARCELONE

LUXEMBOURG

STUTTGART

S A V O I ES A V O I E

ZURICH

LYON

R H O N E - A L P E SR H O N E - A L P E S

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BRUXELLES

FRANCFORT

H A U T E - S A V O I EH A U T E - S A V O I E

S A V O I ES A V O I E

H A U T E - S A V O I EH A U T E - S A V O I E

TURIN

CONTENTS

Savoie Mont Blanc invites You to a summer feast Respected Cadogan guides author Philippe Barbour adores Savoie Mont Blanc in summer, and here introduces you to some of its magnifi cent attractions.

Savoie Mont Blanc offers a feast of pleasures in summer as well as winter. The French know this fact well; I’ve come to appreciate it

hugely from my many trips to the region in recent years; and, with this magazine, we hope to tempt you into sampling its many delights in the warmer season.

Savoie Mont Blanc’s highest mountains may remain alluringly snow-capped throughout the year, but as the temperature rises, much of the attention switches to the region’s gorgeous lakes, the greatest in France. Even if Chamonix and Tignes are irresistible magnets for those intent on reaching the snowy summits in the hottest months, for most, skiing gives way to a host of other exhilarating sports, from white-water-rafting to mountain-biking, and rock-climbing to sailing. Then, of course, there’s the unbeatable (and free) hiking, with stunning natural scenery as your constant companion.

I’ve been lucky enough, getting up early in Savoie Mont Blanc, to spot rare ibex and adorable marmots. A different kind of highlight for me came one afternoon when I jumped off a cliff… to go paragliding over lakes and mountains, trying out this exciting sport for the fi rst time in my life. I’m pleased to say that one of the region’s many excellent specialist instructors was in command.

Fear not, there are many gentler summer pursuits to savour in Savoie Mont Blanc. If you even fi nd the idea of a round of mountain golf or taking a pedal-boat out on one of the lakes too strenuous, then consider the region’s deeply relaxing spas, all given cool contemporary make-overs. Or let cable-cars and extraordinary trains take the strain, whisking you up to sublime viewing platforms.

On the cultural side, I’ve enjoyed tracking down Savoyard castles, crafts and churches on well-marked trails. As to the historic towns, such as Aix-les-Bains, Annecy, Albertville and Chambéry, they prove rich in all manner of attractions. And on Lake Geneva’s French shore, Thonon-les-Bains and Evian turn out to be about far more than just bottled water.

Which reminds me that in talking of Savoie Mont Blanc’s summer feast, I can’t forget to mention the culinary. The cheese is heavenly, the charcuterie divine, plus there are delicious surprises, such as the beautiful fruit and wines produced in the region’s fertile valleys. You can dine in some of the fi nest restaurants in France here, or discover enchanting, simple village inns. What’s for sure is that wherever you go in Savoie Mont Blanc in the summertime, breathtaking nature is always on the menu.

INTRODUCTIONON SAVOIE MONT BLANC’S GREAT LAKES 4MAJESTIC MONT BLANC 8TO THE VANOISE NATIONAL PARK 10ROMANTIC MID-SIZE RANGES 11STUNNING ARRAY OF SUMMERACTIVITIES 12EXHILARATING SPORTS 13AMAZINGLY VARIED ACCOMMODATION 14GLORIOUS TOWNS 15VERTIGINOUS VINEYARDS 16CLASSIC CHEESES 17CULINARY HEIGHTS 18PRACTICAL PAGE 19

Director: Rémy Charmetant - Editorial coordination for this issue: Céline Guillermin ([email protected]) - Corinne Raïh([email protected]) - The following contributed to the production of Savoie Mont Blanc Magazine #2: Alice Ramus ([email protected]) - These pieces were researched and written by Philippe Barbour ([email protected]). He is

the author and joint photographer for the Cadogan Rhône-Alpes guidebook (www.cadoganguide.com), which goes into more details on Savoie Mont Blanc. Address: 24, bd de la Colonne, 73025 Chambéry Cedex, France - 56, rue Sommeiller, BP 348, 74014 Annecy Cedex, France - 20, rue Croix des Petits Champs, 75001 Paris - Telephone: +33 820 00 73 74 - (The price of an ordinary call to France from Britain) www.savoie-mont-blanc.co.uk - Design: Stim Communication graphique - Printing: Les 2 Ponts - Printed on eco-certifi ed paper, using plant-derived ink. No part of this publication, neither the texts nor the illustrations, may be reproduced. Free magazine. Not for sale. Non-binding document. Cover : © Savoie Mont Blanc / Lansard - © Savoie Mont Blanc / Smit - © Savoie Mont Blanc / Chabance.

Lac du Bourget’s Canal de Savières.

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FOUR GREAT LAKESSavoie Mont Blanc boasts four great lakes: Lac d’Aiguebelette, Lac d’Annecy, Lac du Bourget, and the southern half of Lac Léman, better known in English as Lake Geneva. They make for wonderful summer destinations, as the postcards of discovery from our British family reveal…

WHEN DECIDING ON WHERE TO GO FOR THE SUMMER HOLIDAYS, IT

ISN’T ALWAYS EASY TO MATCH THE CHILDREN’S WISHES WITH THOSE

OF THEIR PARENTS! IN THE SMITH FAMILY, GEMMA, 14, AND JEREMY, 6,

ARE ADAMANT THEY WANT TO GO TO THE SEASIDE. HOWEVER, THEIR

PARENTS HAVE CHOSEN TO TOUR SAVOIE MONT BLANC’S GREAT

LAKES… WHILE PROMISING THE KIDS THAT THEY’LL GET SOMETHING

EVEN BETTER THAN AN ORDINARY COASTAL RESORT – THEY’RE OFF

TO DISCOVER THE SEASIDE IN THE MOUNTAINS!

Aix-les-Bains tourist offi ce Tel: +33 (4) 79 88 68 00 www.aixlesbains.com

4 SAVOUR THE SEASIDE ATMOSPHERE ON SAVOIE MONT BLANC’S GREAT LAKES

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GREETINGS FROM LAC DU BOURGET

Dear Grandma,

Mum and Dad told us on the way down to the French Alps that we were going to spend

a few days on France’s largest natural lake. Lac du Bourget is u

nbelievably long. You

can’t see to the other end of it when you look down its length. What’s really great is

that its waters are very warm, reaching an average of 240 in summer - you’d think

you were on the Med!

We had an action-packed first day here. Jeremy and I started by making a rea

l sand

castle on Le Bourget’s beach, where they even have lifeguards,

while Dad went to the

sailing centre. He signed up for windsurfing and wakeboarding. You can try out every

kind of water-sport on the lake. It’s amazing.

After going to the Lac du Bourget aquarium, we hired a boat on the beautiful

Savières

Canal, where we tried to spot beavers. It was great. Another highlight was in the

evening when we had an ice-cream at the port of Aix-les-Bains. We walked along

admiring the yachts, just like last year beside the sea!

Tomorrow, after visiting the stunning waterside abbey of Hautecombe, M

um and Dad

have promised us that we’ll hire mountain bikes to follow the ‘Lake and Mountains’ cycle

track we’ve spotted. When we go past the port of Le Bourget, we’re planning to watch

the rowers head out onto the lake. They say their club’s very old, founded over 100

years ago.

Love Gemma

Lido Beach at Aix-les-Bains on Lac du Bourget.

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From top to bottom: Canoeing on Lac d’Aiguebelette.A tree-top assault course.Lac d’Aiguebelette.

5 SAVOIE MONT BLANC’S SUMMER FEAST #2

Aiguebelette tourist offi ceTel: +33 (4) 79 36 00 02 - www.lac-aiguebelette.com

FrALa

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GREETINGS FROM LAC D’AIGUEBELETTE Dear Karen and James,This summer, we’ve headed off in the camper-van for the great lakes of Savoie Mont Blanc. I’d heard it said that you could find ‘the seaside in the mountains’ in the French Alps - I wanted to check it out! So I’m sending you this card from Lac d’Aiguebelette, where they boast that the waters are among the warmest and gentlest in France. They call the lake ‘the emerald pearl’, and the name isn’t badly chosen. The waters are incredibly clear, and almost turquoise in colour. Aiguebelette sits at the foot of the dramatic L’Epine mountain beside the Chartreuse, which turns out to be a regional natural park as well as a famous liqueur from these parts!

Motor boats are banned on the lake, but there’s an internationally renowned rowing club. Best of all, there are seven fine beaches to choose from, and loads of outdoor sports to sample. Have you heard of hiking by canoe, for example? This afternoon we’re taking the children on a tree-top assault course. As to myself, I’m really tempted to try paragliding. The plan is to stop here several days to make the most of the hiking trails and to enjoy the peaceful natural environment, which includes major reed-beds and a couple of unspoilt islands. There are fabulous legends about Aiguebelette too. All told, it’s been a great discovery. See you soon, Anthony

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GREETINGS FROM LAC D’ANNECY

Hi Henry!Mum has said I have to send at least one postcard, so I’m telling her

what to write to you! The lakes are really great here. Gemma and I

didn’t believe it when Mum and Dad said it would be like being by the

sea, but there are even more things to do here.

At Annecy, I’ve watched the paragliding for hours, and the catamarans.

I can’t wait to go on our trip along the special cycle track. You know

how much I love cycling.Dad said that we can hire a guide to help us explore Annecy by bike.

We’re going to stop and visit an old prison and castles! The weather’s

lovely and we’re eating lots of ice-creams. Tomorrow we’re going on to

Lac Léman for a cruise on a solar-powered boat called L’Aquarel. Cool!

Bye for now, Jeremy

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6 SAVOUR THE SEASIDE ATMOSPHERE ON SAVOIE MONT BLANC’S GREAT LAKES

Annecy, with its castle set above its canals.

Annecy tourist offi ceTel: +33 (4) 50 45 00 33 www.lac-annecy.com

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Château de Menthon-Saint-Bernard overlooking Lac d’Annecy.

Sailing boat on Lac d’Annecy.© Savoie Mont Blanc / Zvardon

View across Lac d’Annecy from the Roc des Bœufs.

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From top to bottom.Port and Château de Rives (or Montjoux) at Thonon-les-Bains, opposite Switzerland and the Jura Range.Yvoire’s port.A sandy beach on Lac Léman.

Thonon-les-Bains tourist offi ceTel: +33 (4) 50 71 55 55 - www.thononlesbains.com

GREETINGS FROM LAC LÉMAN Dear Natalie,I’m writing to you from Lake Geneva, or Lac Léman as they call it in France, last stop on our tour of Savoie Mont Blanc’s great lakes. We’ve had a fabulous, action-packed time. The seaside atmosphere around these lakes is truly exceptional. Lac Léman is so vast that you can hardly see from one end to the other; it really is like being beside the sea. The water’s deliciously warm and we’ve found lovely beaches with lifeguards, so the children can bathe safely. The one at Excenevex is broad and sandy, with spectacular views. At Thonon-les-Bains, next to famous Evian, I sunbathed while Anthony tried his hand at sailing and windsurfing. There are just so many activities on offer. Everywhere we went we admired the gorgeous mountains surrounding the lakes. It really is so uplifting.

All of us have been enchanted, and the weather’s been as good as on the coast. It’s our last day now, so we’re going to market to buy some regional specialities before lunching on lake fish at one of the waterside terraces. We’re also going to the Jardin des 5 Sens, a lovely garden set beside the castle in the gorgeous village of Yvoire. We’ll say our fond goodbyes by taking a walk on the Balcon du Léman route, making the most of the views over this wonderful inland sea. Lots of love, Andrea


DISCOVERING SAVOIE MONT BLANC8 D

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Totemic Mont Blanc is a staggering mountain, the highest in Western Europe, and still growing, albeit very slowly - at present it measures 4,810 metres. You can view its massive, mesmerizing peak from countless points around the whole of our region. It dominates the Massif du Mont Blanc range, surrounded by the viciously sharp but highly photogenic peaks of the Aiguilles, or Needles.

Most visitors head for the famed town of Chamonix to get up closer to Mont Blanc. Deep down in the Arve Valley, this bubbly town is always fi zzing with mountai-neering excitement, and caters extremely well to the masses. Host of the fi rst-ever Winter Olympics, back in 1924, there are now plenty of sporting activities to try out around town in summer, including golf on a magni-fi cent course.

Ordinary mortals can use the various cable-car rides from Chamonix, or its neighbours Argentière and St-Gervais-les-Bains, to reach stunning viewing platforms with the minimum of exertion. Or there are a couple of very surprising trains that strain high up the mountainsi-des for you. The one departing from Chamonix takes you up to the Mer de Glace, the most famous glacier in France, with an ice grotto you can visit. The Tramway du Mont-Blanc from St-Gervais-les-Bains has numerous tempting stops on the way to Le Nid d’Aigle, the Eagle’s Eyrie. For a deeply relaxing time back down in St-Gervais, book in at the thermal spa.

Hiking is hugely popular around Chamonix and the Arve Valley, the high-perched mountain lakes among favou-rite destinations; and note that thanks to the good selection of high-altitude inns, you won’t go hungry if you haven’t packed a picnic. The truly adventurous can try climbing Mont Blanc’s summit by organizing a trip through Chamonix’s famed Compagnie des Guides.

MAJESTIC MONT BLANC

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TO THE VANOISE NATIONAL PARKVIA ARAVIS AND BEAUFORTAINTo get down from Mont Blanc to our second greatest range, the Vanoise, you need to pass through two beautiful areas, the Aravis-Val d’Arly and the Beaufortain. Megève makes an enticing fi rst stop; it’s a very smart resort renowned for its shopping and its spa hotels. Then, passing under the gap-toothed Aravis range, enjoy the traditional valley villages where crafts thrive. As to the Beaufortain, it’s famed for its fabulous cheeses. Here, the steep meadows fringed by forests, and dotted with picturesque herds and hamlets, make for an idyllic mountain picture.

Reaching the Vanoise, a large swathe of this hugely impressive and extensive range was declared France’s fi rst National Park back in the mid-1960s. With its highly dramatic peaks and glaciers, this well-preserved area is home to the rare European ibex, among other exceptional wildlife, which includes plenty of chamois and marmots. Pralognan-la-Vanoise is one charming, central base from which to explore the Vanoise’s natural wonders.

The Vanoise is bordered to north and south by two vast valleys. The Upper Isère, or Tarentaise, is world-famous for its string of leading ski resorts, like Val d’Isère, Tignes or Les Arcs, or Courchevel and Méribel. Don’t be fooled into thinking these places go quiet in summer. Quite the contrary, they turn their attention to other lively sporting activities (see our Activities pages). The cultural trails are well worth exploring too. The churches conceal many surprises, including medieval murals or Baroque extravaganzas. Old crafts are maintained or remembered in many a village, while the towns of Moûtiers and Bourg-St-Maurice are bustling centres.

The Arc Valley, or Maurienne, offers a quieter yet equally dramatic route to explore. You can enjoy tracking down the fascinating traces of different mountain civilizations, going back from frontier forts, via Baroque and medieval churches, to Neolithic remnants. Very fi ne walks are to be had amidst the natural grandeur in every direction, but the resorts are on an intimate scale.

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Hikers near Pralognan-la-Vanoise.

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Aravis Range.

Hikers on the shore of a lake and facing the landscape.


SAVOIE MONT BLANC’SROMANTIC MID-SIZED RANGES

A gorgeous string of mid-sized mountain ranges runs down the western side of Savoie Mont Blanc from Lac Léman to Lac d’Aiguebelette. They go from the Chablais in the north to the Chartreuse in the south, with the Bornes and Bauges in between. They may not have the eternally snow-capped peaks heights and formidable glaciers of the higher ranges, but you’ll fi nd them ruggedly romantic and dramatic all the same. The picturesque traditional villages and old-style chalets make touring in these parts a particular pleasure.

Torrents rush down through the Chablais to Lac Léman, with terrifying gorges to admire, or even to race down, but there are peaceful abbeys to

seek out too, and many quaint villages. The Giffre Valley is particularly joyous and fertile, leading to one of the greatest dead-ends in France, the Cirque du Fer à Cheval, where waterfalls tumble down from vast heights. Across in the Bornes, settlements and roads are few and far between; these parts are a paradise for hikers, with the extensive network of trails.

In the southwestern corner of our region, both the Bauges and Chartreuse have been designated regional natural parks, helping to preserve their natural and man-made heritage, and their exceptional peace. In Les Bauges, for example, you might quietly seek out the craftsmen of Le Noyer, or the organic Savoyard bread shop at Ecole. Or for something more substantial, sign up for a trek of several days in the company of donkeys. Highlights in the Chartreuse include the remarkably toothy Col du Granier mountain, where bears once hibernated, and the spectacular Cirque de St-Même.

Out on Savoie Mont Blanc’s western fringes, the slopes descending to the Rhône are extremely beautiful, and productive, clad as they are with vines. Read more about them on our page devoted to wine.

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The Rouget waterfall in the Sixt-Fer-à-Cheval nature reserve.Bottom. The village of La Compote – Massif des Bauges with view on the Dent de Pleuven and the Trélod.

The Croix de l’Alpes in the Chartreuse Range.

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SAVOIE MONT BLANC’SSTUNNING ARRAY OF SUMMER ACTIVITIESTHE ARRAY OF SUMMER ACTIVITIES ON OFFER IN SAVOIE MONT BLANC IS EXCEPTIONAL. WHETHER YOU’RE LOOKING FOR EXHILARATION OR QUIETER CONTEMPLATION, HERE ARE SOME IDEAS.

The simpler pleasuresAmong the vast selection of summer activities you can enjoy in Savoie Mont Blanc, hiking has the double advantage of being free, and of leaving you free to choose your destination for the day. There are hiking paths requiring different levels of fi tness and expertise, but many of our marked trails aren’t too taxing. Remember, though, always to consult the local weather forecast carefully.

A good way of discovering more about our region is to go on a guided walk. One way to delight the children is to follow an animal-focused tour. Or what about considering a tasty botanical twist to your walking day? Read more about this on our culinary page below.

Cycling need not mean tackling 45º slopes. There are many tracks that don’t take you up vertiginous gradients, but still allow you to take in the fabulous scenery, for example going around the lakes, or sticking to the bottom of the valleys, maybe following a wine trail.

ACTIVITIES

Swimming is a popular family activity that you can sometimes enjoy for free around our lakes. Some beaches charge a fee, but then you get added facilities in those places. Canoeing, rowing, or taking a pedal-boat provide delightful ways of getting out onto the great lakes.

For those looking for activities where you can relax completely, then you can swan around on any number of lake cruises, or be pampered with a well-being break at one of Savoie Mont Blanc’s nine thermal spas, or in one of the many luxury hotel spas.

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Crazy golf in the Aravis Range.

Cycling leisure trail on the shore of Lac d’Annecy.

Order free Savoie Mont Blanc’s Walks and Hikes itineraries on our website:www.savoie-mont-blanc.co.uk


If you’re in search of an adrenaline rush, you’ll be well satisfi ed in Savoie Mont Blanc. On the watery theme, water-skiing and wakeboarding are popular on the largest lakes. Or follow one of our rivers’ natural assault courses by signing up for canyoning, hydrospeed, or white-water-rafting.

Mountain-biking (VTT in French) is a major summer pursuit, what with the thrill of so many vast slopes to whiz down. A fair number ski-lifts operate through the summer and allow you to carry your bike up the mountainsides. There are over 3,000km of marked mountain-biking tracks to tackle.

Taking our precipitous terrain at a more measured pace, rock-climbers have a fi eld day in our region. As well as over 200 offi cial sites d’escalade to test you, there are some 50 via ferrata fi xed-ladder tracks. Consider hiring a guide to attempt such sports.

SAVOIE MONT BLANC’SEXHILARATING SPORTS

If you wish to discover high glaciers and peaks, you must reserve the services of one of our highly experienced experts. For the ski-mad, summer skiing is a rare treat you can enjoy in one or two of Savoie Mont Blanc’s fabled ski resorts, notably Tignes and Chamonix.

If you want to reach for the skies, then there are professionals to take you paragliding, for example from Lac d’Aiguebelette, Lac d’Annecy, or around Chamonix. Or for something slightly more serene, book a hot-air balloon trip or a helicopter ride over the tops of our highest mountains for an unforgettable overview of Savoie Mont Blanc.

Bringing you back down to earth, one amusing novelty is the ground-breaking new ice rink at Morillon in the Giffre Valley, made from recyclable polyethylene! It can be used year-round, and, refl ecting a growing consciousness in our mountains, it’s extremely eco-friendly.

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Via ferrata, Roc de Cornillon, near the village of Le Bourget du Lac.

Kitesurf on Lac du Bourget.Diving in Lac d’Aiguebelette.

Rafting on the Isère river and golf.

Mountain biking.

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SAVOIE MONT BLANC’SACCOMMODATION

CULTURAL HERITAGE

The chalet of course provides one of the strongest images of the Alps, and we have plenty of such classic wood-clad homes, both modern and old-fashioned, in which you can stay. Their balconies with a view are a joy in the warmer season.

All told, Savoie Mont Blanc offers a very wide range of accommodation, and it’s well used to welcoming hordes of eager visitors not just in the snowy season. Our luxury hotels go from palatial lake-side extravaganzas to intimate boutique numbers, perhaps with a pampering spa tucked in. There are numerous good-value

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options too. The range of self-catering possibilities, tourism residences, B&Bs and campsites is extremely extensive. If you’re looking for cheap group accommodation possibilities, consider our youth hostels and gîtes d’étape. If you’re a keen hiker, up in the heights away from any roads, you’ll fi nd a good number of well-maintained mountain refuges too. Among novel developments in Savoie Mont Blanc are our écogîtes, environmentally friendly B&Bs – a handful of places have already met the criteria to be awarded the label. For those particularly interested in wildlife, Gîtes Panda are B&Bs certifi ed by the World Wildlife Fund that offer special features for appreciating the local fauna. Or consider sleeping up in the treetops at Ecotagnes in the Aravis.

Arêches-Beaufort in Beaufortain.

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Chalets in the Aravis Range.

Swimming pool, Château-hôtel des Comtes de Challes.

Room at the Chalet-hôtel Les Saytels, Le Grand Bornand.

Family breakfast, Camping HLL (Habitation Légère de Loisirs).


SAVOIE MONT BLANC’SGLORIOUS TOWNSSavoie Mont Blanc’s main towns are enchanting, encircled by mountains, packed with exciting architecture, culture… and shops. Plus they’re very festive places. To the French, Annecy is the epitome of romance, with its exquisite, colourful houses and white-stone churches refl ected in its canals. Just beyond its arcaded streets and below its castle-turned-museum stands the cleanest town-side lake in Europe, the mountains beautifully refl ected in its crystal-clear waters.

Chambéry, historic capital of Savoie, has plenty of pizzazz, what with its lively streets and squares, its numerous culinary specialities, and some funky contemporary buildings as well as a wildly decorated cathedral, many museums, and a major castle. The last turns into a stage for free concerts on certain summer evenings.

Aix-les-Bains has two distinct sides. Up the slope from Lac du Bourget lies the genteel old spa town beloved of the Romans and the Victorians. Down by the lake stand the youthful lake-side developments and marinas, refl ecting a sporty new Aix. Such is the standard of water-sports on offer here that Aix became the fi rst French port away from the sea to be awarded the prestigious Station Nautique quality mark.

Up beside Lac Léman, Thonon-les-Bains has now also won this recognition. It too has glamorous marinas, down the cliff from the delightful historic centre. Just east, Evian-les-Bains offers a multitude of attractions, from its contemporary auditorium, a free cable-car ride up from the centre, to its marinas, waterside promenade and ecological gardens.

In the heart of Savoie, Albertville was created for Charles-Albert de Savoie in the 19th-century. Its grand buildings were substantially added to in 1992 when it hosted the Winter Olympics. The adjoining historic hill village of Confl ans has been beautifully restored.

Annecy’s Canal du Thiou and old prison quarter.

Aix-les-Bains and the Mont Revard.

Chamonix town centre with view on the Mont Blanc (below).

Rives port in Thonon-les-Bain.

Village of Confl ans overlooking Albertville.

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SAVOIE MONT BLANC’SVERTIGINOUS VINEYARDS

Now you might imagine our slopes a little too steep and our climate a little too extreme to produce fi ne wines, but you’d be wrong. In fact, Savoie Mont Blanc boasts some excellent vineyards that have long held coveted appellation d’origine contrôlée (AOC) status. There are three main growing areas: fi rst, the middle section of the Isère Valley known as La Combe de Savoie; second, the Upper Rhône between Lac Léman and Lac du Bourget; and third, the south side of Lac Léman. Most of the production is of dry white wines, though some reds are also made.

All our vineyards are exceptionally beautiful, what with their mountain backdrops. La Combe de Savoie has the greatest concentration of vines, and appellations with wild-sounding names, like Abymes (Chasms) or Apremont (Bitter Mountain)! In fact, these vineyards grow

on enchantingly open slopes east of Chambéry which you might even consider cycling round, going from winery to winery. The wines are very pleasing on the palette.

Our Rhône-side vineyards are rather steeper. Those of Marestel cling to gorgeous slopes west of Lac du Bourget. Just north of them, the Chautagne vines overlook one of the largest poplar forests in Europe. Next comes dramatic Seyssel, the vineyards here lining high terraces above both river banks. Branch away from the Rhône for Frangy, which makes a surprising sweet Roussette wine. All these wines have wonderfully distinctive characters.

Up by Lac Léman, the vineyards recline in more laid-back positions, for example around the lake-side Château de Ripaille. They traditionally accompany the lake fi sh specialities.

CULINARY DELIGHTS

Take home some of our region’s wines and you may surprise your wine connoisseur friends back home.

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Towers and vineyards of Chignin.Dry-stone vineyard hut restored in 2000 by the Compagnons du Tour de France.

Excessive consumption of alcohol is dangerous for your health. Always drink in moderation.

Château de Mécoras and Chautagne vineyards at the foot of Mont Clergeon.

17 MAG SAVOIE-MONT BLANC N°5

SAVOIE MONT BLANC’SCLASSIC CHEESES


TARTIFLETTE SAVOYARDE RECIPE FOR 5 TO 6 PEOPLEIngredients- 1 or 2 Reblochon fermier cheeses- 1.2 kilos of potatoes, sliced- 500 g chopped onion- 250 g diced smoky bacon- A bottle of Savoie dry white wineCooking 1. Parboil the potatoes and leave to the side to cool.2. Fry the onions until lightly browned.3. Add the diced bacon to the onions and leave to fry gently for 15 mins.

4. Then, in a greased oven dish, make a layer of potatoes, then one of the onions and bacon. Repeat the layering a second time.5. Pour in a glass (c.40cl) of the white wine, and season the mixture with salt and pepper.6. Cut the Reblochon cheeses in half and lay the pieces over the top of the dish.

7. Cook in a pre-heated oven at 220ºC for around 25 mins.8. Serve with a salad and the rest of the bottle of Savoie dry white wine!

Delicious mountain cheeses spring to mind fi rst when considering Savoie Mont Blanc’s culinary specialities. You may think instantly of the fun of a fondue or a raclette. Or perhaps your preference is for a serious slab of Beaufort, renowned as the ‘prince of gruyères’, and one of fi ve fromages with AOC status in our region. You can visit a fair number of the cooperatives that produce Beaufort, or then again Reblochon, another classic you’ll fi nd widely available. It’s mellow and densely creamy, the word ‘fermier’ indicating when it’s made on farms using traditional methods.

Other, less well-known cheeses to look out for that have also won their own AOC label include Abondance from the Chablais and Tome des Bauges – the latter distinguishing itself from the more widespread Tomme de Savoie by being spelt with one ‘m’ only. Another popular hard cheese that’s widely available is Savoie Emmental.

Most of the region’s cheeses are made from cows’ milk; the herds, with their clarine bells ringing out, provide a delightful backing track to a visit to many of our rural areas. Some sheep’s and goat’s cheeses are produced too, the Chevrotin awarded AOC status in the latter category. Look out too for a much-praised rare blue cheese, Bleu de Termignon.

Tartifl ette is a very popular, delicious local recipe using Reblochon to make a gooey topping to the layers of potatoes and onion underneath, fl avoured with Savoie white wine. Here’s a simple way for you to enjoy it for yourselves:

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The fondue savoyarde.Ageing Beaufort (below).

Just some of our cheeses!

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SAVOIE MONT BLANC’SCULINARY HEIGHTSSavoie Mont Blanc is proud of counting an exceptional number of Michelin-starred restaurants, 22 in total at time of going to print! The high quality of the natural ingredients so close to hand has helped make this a region of culinary excellence. There’s a concentration of fi ne addresses around Lac d’Annecy and Lac du Bourget, as well as in the Vanoise’s Trois Vallées and around the Arve Valley leading to Chamonix. You can eat like a prince in such places, perhaps sampling a dish masterfully fl avoured with mountain herbs freshly picked by your chef, or trying a highly prized lake fi sh, such as féra.

It’s not simply about sophisticated cuisine in Savoie Mont Blanc. For example, there’s immense pleasure to be had in a rewarding platter of local cheese and charcuterie in a country inn. Some of their locations can be rather surprising, perched on the edge of a mountainside, or hidden away in a former frontier fort, or tucked into a farm beside the animals. Village auberges are often a delight, serving tasty traditional rustic dishes.

One delightful new way of getting a good taste of Savoie Mont Blanc’s natural ingredients is to sign up for one of the specialist walks now

available in summer in various spots around the region, where expert guides take you out into the meadows and point out the edible flora at your feet. Some even propose a memorable tea using the ingredients you’ve picked.

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Gratin de Crozet. A fun family dish: raclette.

Lake fi sh.

Local market in Annecy.

Charcuterie de Savoie.

19 MAG SAVOIE-MONT BLANC N°519 MAG SAVOIE-MONT BLANC N°5 19 SAVOIE MONT BLANC’S SUMMER FEAST #2SAVOIE MONT BLANC’SPRACTICAL PAGE

ACCOMMODATION

Savoie Mont Blanc accommodation through the seasons:

You’ll fi nd plenty of information on our website regarding holiday accommodation of all sorts. You can also order our special annual brochure, Séjours Réservation (in French only at the moment on +33 479 85 01 09)If you wish to hire a holiday home, or gîte, there are two French national associations that offer such accommodation, Gîtes de France (www.gites-de-france.com and www.gites-de-france-haute-savoie.com) and Clévacances (www.clevacances.com). Alternatively, seek out specialist companies. Tourist offi ces can also help you in your request (see list on our website).

GREENER TRANSPORT TO SAVOIE MONT BLANC

BY RAIL A green and rapid alternative to fl ying from Britain to Savoie Mont Blanc is the train via Eurostar and TGV networks.Example of a journey from London to Chambéry- London St Pancras to Paris Gare du Nord (with Eurostar) 2h15 (on average) - Change from Gare du Nord to Gare de Lyon station (quick connections with the tube)- Gare de Lyon to Chambéry by TGV: 2h50• Consult Rail Europe: www.raileurope.co.ukOnce you are in Savoie Mont Blanc, major towns and villages are linked with the train and coach services.

BY ROAD Take your time, drive slowly and be environmentally friendly!Driving to Savoie Mont Blanc by car is a good way of rediscovering France including stops at all manner of towns and villages. In Savoie Mont Blanc, use public transport, free shuttle buses connexion in villages, electric bicycles and your two feet to discover the fantastic landscapes of the French Alps in summer!

BY PLANE In summer, 3 airports offer links between the UK and Savoie Mont Blanc. They all provide effi cient shuttle services to the towns and villages. • Lyon-Saint-Exupéry AirportTel. +33 426 007 007 • Geneva International AirportFor useful information, contact Accueil France: 00 41 22 798 20 00 Accueil France is a desk located in the French sector. You can contact them for any queries regarding hotels, bus or taxi transfers... • Grenoble Isère Airport Tel.: +33 (0)4 76 65 48 48Many fl ights all year round to come to Savoie Mont Blanc.

Tourist Information on Savoie Mont BlancYou can fi nd a lot of details on our website, with English version, on www.savoie-mont-blanc.co.ukOr contact us by phone on +33 820 00 73 74 (the price of ordinary call to France from Britain) or by email.Please note that our regional website gives contact details on the very useful network of tourist offi ces around Savoie Mont Blanc.

Why don’t you try one of the latest environmentally friendly options in Savoie Mont Blanc?The new Gîtes de France ‘Ecogîtes’ label has now been awarded to 5 chambres d’hôtes (B&Bs) that meet stringent environmental standards.Savoie Mont Blanc now has 8 Gîtes Panda, denoting accommodation to which the WWF (World Wildlife Fund) has awarded its label. These are largely located in regional or natural parks. Other Gîtes are working very hard to provide buildings that are now more environmentally friendly.

www.savoie-mont-blanc.co.ukTel: +33 820 00 73 74 (The price of an ordinary call to France from Britain)

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The « Ecogîte » La Ferme de Noémie, near Albertville.Tn

Documents

Savoie Mont Blanc Magazine N°2 - Summer 2009