Savoie Mont Blanc Magazine N°1

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GORGES ET RUIS-SEAUX

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SAVOIE/HAUTE-SAVOIE Spring/Summer/Autumn 2007/2008 - # 1

SENSATIONALIN ALL SEASONSCOME AND ENJOY SAVOIE MONT BLANCSPRING, SUMMER AND AUTUMN

SENSATIONALIN ALL SEASONSCOME AND ENJOY SAVOIE MONT BLANCSPRING, SUMMER AND AUTUMN

TOURING ANDCULTURE

BE ENCHANTED BY OURCHÂTEAUX, TRADITIONS,

VINEYARDS...SAVOIE MONT BLANC. .magazine

SPLENDIDCITYBREAKSAND GREATLAKES

DIVINE SPORTS, SPAS AND GASTRONOMY...

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From Mont Blanc and Lac Léman to Annecy and Chambéry, from glistening glaciers to flower-filled mountain meadows, from paragliding to thermal spas,from lake fish and fondues to deliciously refreshing waters and wines,you'll find Savoie Mont Blanc sensational in whichever season you visit

We've prepared this magazine to focus yourattention on the region's fabulous delightsspring, summer and autumn. You can easilyenjoy its unbeatable array of mountain rangesoutside of winter, on contemplative walks, on exhilarating expeditions, on astonishinggolfing greens, or by going mountain-bikingon breath-taking slopes. Our famous greatlakes are at their best in summer, warming upwonderfully for bathing and water sports likesailing, windsurfing or waterskiing. Plus theyhave many beaches on which you can lounge,admiring the mountains reflected in theirwaters.Savoie Mont Blanc isn't only for the sporty.Our territories offered awe-inspiring sites forabbeys and churches and inspired theRomantics to poetry. Our thermal spas werediscovered by the Romans…but they havebeen updated recently to offer modern-daytourists a good pampering! You might enjoytaking your time savouring the region's culi-nary specialities, including its exceptionalarray of cheeses. Or discover our surprisingvalley vineyards producing fragrant wines.

Culture is very much on the Savoie MontBlanc menu. Our many châteaux have fasci-nating historic tales to tell, as do our cities,with their rich cultural legacies. A goodnumber of these are well connected for shortbreaks, with Chambéry/Aix-les-Bains interna-tional airport in our region, and Geneva andLyon airports on our doorstep; plus a goodnumber of our towns lie on the excellentFrench TGV rapid train network.Guided by the themes we present here, we doencourage you to make up your own itinera-ries to explore Savoie Mont Blanc. Or thenthere are ready-made routes, some signalledin this magazine, to help you round.Whichever path you choose, Savoie has innu-merable appealing restaurants to samplealong the way. The choice of accommodationis excellent too, going from smart hotels andB&Bs to great campsites and mountainrefuges.In addition to this magazine, you'll find awealth of further information on Savoie MontBlanc through the seasons on the region'sofficial website, www.savoie-mont-blanc.com

SAVOIE MONT BLANC'S SENSATIONAL IN ALL SEASONS

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The Paquier promenade - Lac d’Annecy.

Director Rémy CharmetantEditorial coordination for this issueCéline Guillermin([email protected])Corinne Raïh ([email protected])The following contributed to the productionof Savoie Mont Blanc Magazine #1 Alice Ramus ([email protected]).These pieces were researched andwritten by Philippe Barbour([email protected])He is the author of and joint photographerfor the Cadogan Rhône-Alpes guidebook(www.cadoganguides.com), which goesinto more détail on Savoie Mont Blanc.Address- 24, bd de la Colonne, 73025 ChambéryCedex - France- 56, rue Sommeiller, BP 348, 74012 Annecy Cedex - France- 31, avenue de l'Opéra, 75001 Paris - France+33 820 00 73 74 [the price of an ordinarycall to France from Britain][email protected]

Les Éditions Le Dauphiné LibéréChairman and managing directorHenri-Pierre GuilbertEditor-in-chief Patrick Peltier

Editorial coordination Georges Bosi([email protected])Production coordination Lionel Cabé([email protected])

A Dauphiné Libéré publication/Alpes Loisirs38913 Veurey Cedex - FranceTél. +33 476 88 71 59

Advertising production Publiprint Dauphiné38913 Veurey Cedex FranceTél. +33 476 88 71 31Managing director Patrick ClaretProduct manager- Patrice Seurot - Tél. +33 479 33 86 93 [email protected] Romain Béhar - Tél. +33 476 88 73 [email protected]

Photoengraving Trium (Seyssinet-Pariset - 38 - France)Printed in Italy by Maestro (St-Ismier - 38 - France)

Savoie Mont Blanc Magazine is apublication produced by Le DauphinéLibéré/Alpes Loisirs for Savoie MontBlanc Tourisme.No part of this publication, neither the texts nor the illustrations, may bereproduced.

Free magazine.Not for sale.Non-binding document.

Cover photos (from top to bottom, from left to right) : Pellorce/Francedias.com; © Savoie Mont Blanc /Cavazzana; © Savoie Mont Blanc / F. Zvardon; © Savoie Mont Blanc / C. Haase; G. Lansard; © Savoie Mont Blanc / Fancy Jupiterimages; © Savoie Mont Blanc / Smit; © Savoie Mont Blanc / Smit.

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Massif du Mont BlancThe Massif du Mont Blanc in the eastof our region, where France,Switzerland and Italy meet, is a Meccafor mountain lovers from across theglobe. Awe-inspiring Mont Blanc, thehighest peak in Western Europe atc.4808m (15,774ft), towers so muchhigher than the surrounding summitsthat it stands out startlingly fromviewpoints right across Savoie.

Adventurous types should contact therenowned Compagnie des Guides inChamonix to organize mountaineeringtrips to the top. Many more of youwill no doubt plan exhilarating walksup the flanks of the Arve valley for thestunning views. Two mountain trainsoffer unforgettable, easy journeysup to great glaciers, the Tramwaydu Mont-Blanc from St-Gervais and the Train du Montenvers fromChamonix. Cable-car rides are afurther fantastic option.

Massif de la VanoiseSavoie's great southern range, theVanoise, is encircled by two hugevalleys: to the north, by the upperIsère, or Tarentaise; to the south, by the Arc, better known as theMaurienne. France's first nationalpark opened in the Vanoise in 1963,linked to Italy's well-established

Gran Paradiso national park, helpingprotect the endangered Europeanibex. With great glacier-sided peaks,the Vanoise park makes for gloriouswalking territory. The Tarentaise's famous ski resortsnow offer a very lively summer season.Big resorts like Les Arcs and Val d'Isèreput on a wide programme of summersports. Méribel, Courchevel and Tignesboast striking golf courses. However,the Tarentaise also conceals adorableBaroque churches, lovely traditionalvillages and lively traditional towns. The Maurienne's ancient capital, St-Jean-de-Maurienne, has grandmonuments. To north and west,

delightful discreet museums focus on local traditions. Press on east for wonderfully decorated churches,although Bessans craftsmen celebratethe devil…in comical wooden effigies.Impregnable-looking forts line themid-slopes, but several now open tovisitors.

SAVOIE MONT BLANC'S MIGHTIEST MOUNTAIN RANGES

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Located in southeast France,Savoie Mont Blanc boasts someof the most magnificent land-scapes in Europe, stretchingbetween Lac Léman (LakeGeneva) and Provence. Here weoffer you a tempting touringintroduction.

SAVOIE MONT BLANC'S BRITISH LINKS: British Mountaineering Pioneers in Savoie Mont BlancAdventurous British visitors to Savoie MontBlanc went on many pioneering trips up ourmountains. As early as the 1740s, two boldchaps, William Windham and Richard Pococke,tackled the biggest glacier above Chamonix,becoming the first people recorded as walkingon the Mer de Glace. The brilliant Swiss scientistHorace de Saussure, passionate about MontBlanc, was so excited by the achievement thathe offered a reward for the first person to climbthe Monarch's summit. This was achieved bylocals Paccard and Balmat in 1786. De Saussurefollowed the next year, as did the first Brit to thetop of Mont Blanc, Colonel Mark Beaufroy.

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The Mer de Glace in Chamonix.

Lake Pareis and the Cirque des Evettes in the Vanoise National Park.

The Montenvers train from Chamonix.

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To describe our wonderful othermountain ranges and valleys,we'll start with the region'snorthern border, Lac Léman, andwork south. This is quite a roller-coaster of a geography lesson!

Northern Savoie Mont Blanc:Chablais, Faucigny, Giffre and ArveThe charming Chablais mountains rise behind Lac Léman. In westernChablais traditional museums are scattered in the old settlements. To theeast, exciting dranses (torrents) racedown via dramatic valleys. The pasturesand romantic abbeys of Aulps andAbondance offer peace. South, thebeautiful Faucigny and Giffre valleys arestrung with lovely old villages and spec-tacular waterfalls. The Arve windingeast towards Mont Blanc is big and burly,with industry, but interesting towns.

Northwest Savoie Mont Blanc: Genevois, Haut-Rhône,Albanais and ChautagneWest of Geneva and Annecy, north-west Savoie bound by the Rhône is a delightful area of smaller, rolling

mountains. Explore the hills andgorges, orchards and the odd vineyarddotted around here, the heights oftenoccupied by dramatic castles likeChaumont, Clermont and Montrottier,which you can visit.

Central Savoie Mont Blanc: Bornes and Aravis, Val d'Arlyand BeaufortainEast of Lac d'Annecy, the Bornes andAravis form a sensational backdrop toFrance's most famous lake. The oddintriguing château hides out here too,while a courageous Resistance grouptook to the Plateau des Glières. Aroundthe picturesque traditional centres,you'll find excellent addresses forReblochon cheese. East, the Val d'Arly'ssweet villages are very family-friendly.Climb south for the exceptionally pictu-resque high pasturelands where thegreat Beaufort cheese is produced.

Southwest Savoie Mont Blanc: Lakelands and BaugesRegional Nature ParkUtterly beautiful Lac d'Annecy andLac du Bourget dominate the touristscene here. All manner of cruises

and water sports are possible fromenchanting lakeside towns andvillages. Between the lakes, theforested flanks of the Bauges rangelook intimidating, although pluckyvineyards cling to the southernslopes. Explore the old craft villagesin the heart of the Bauges.

Southwest Savoie Mont Blanc: Avant-Pays Savoyard andNorthern ChartreuseFrom the lovely canal-side village ofChanaz, follow the gorgeous MarestelRhône wine route south through theAvant-Pays Savoyard. This frontierterritory of rolling hills is one of themost peaceful areas for tourists inSavoie. There's a third spectacular,quieter great lake to discover here,Lac d'Aiguebelette. Savoie has alsobagged the northern half of theChartreuse range, highlights includingthe Mont Granier and the Cirque de St-Même.

SAVOIE MONT BLANC'S SENSATIONALOTHER RANGES AND VALLEYS

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Above: Field of flowers andview of the Roc d'Enfer

in the Chablais.Below: Village of La Compote

in the Bauges Regional Nature Park.

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After our geography lesson,here's a brief but useful historylesson on Savoie Mont Blanc!

Prehistory to SapaudiaA few traces have been found of hardyprehistoric men in Savoie, notablybeside the great lakes. Certain moun-tain passes were used in ancient times.The great Carthaginian general fromNorth Africa, Hannibal, possibly triedto sneak up on Rome with his armyand elephants via the Mont Cenis, in218 BC. The Romans stepped intoSavoie in 121 BC. Aix-les-Bains haskept the most remarkable Romanruins. In the Dark Ages, a new tribefrom the east baptized the regionSapaudia, land of the firs.

Savoie's Independent Lords At the start of the first Christianmillennium, Savoie's territories laywithin the Holy Roman Empire, butthe region emerged as a semi-autono-mous state in the 11th century, whenHumbert aux Blanches Mains wasrewarded for good service with theposition of Count of Savoie.Humbert's descendants became knownas Portiers des Alpes, Gatekeepers ofthe Alps. For centuries, they acted asindependent lords of the northwestAlps. Through astute marriages, theybecame players on the Europeanstage, forging ties with English, aswell as French, royalty. Chambérywas elevated to the counts' capital inthe 13th century. In the 14th and 15th centuries,Savoie's lords reached the height oftheir power. Piedmont became theirs.In 1416, the Holy Roman Emperorgave Count Amédée VII a promotion,making him Savoie's first duke. Thefamily even acquired the most famousshroud in Christendom, supposedlyused for Christ's burial.

Savoie and French ForaysLouise de Savoie gave birth to a boywho would become bellicose Frenchmonarch François I. From his time on,French kings frequently stepped unin-vited into Savoie. François I seizedcontrol in 1536. The house of Savoieupped sticks to Turin, but did regaincontrol of Savoie in 1559.The other major issue for 16th-century Savoie was Protestantism,spreading from Geneva, rejecting thecorrupt Catholic priesthood for directcommunication with God. TheCatholic Church in Savoie hit back

with a major charm offensive, led bythe seductive St François de Sales. With the Revolution and Napoleon,the French were back, but Savoie'srulers were restored after Waterloo.

Savoie Becomes FrenchWhile Piedmont joined a unified Italy,traditionally French-speaking Savoiewas, by agreement and plebiscite,made part of France in 1860, anddivided into two administrativedépartements, Haute-Savoie to thenorth, Savoie to the south.Tourism was taking off, aided by theRomantics, pioneering mountaineers,

SAVOIE MONT BLANC'S HISTORY AND TRADITIONS

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Grand staircase in an historic Chambéry mansion.

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Engraving of the 1860 vote for independence

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SAVOIE MONT BLANC'S BRITISH LINKS: Savoie Mont Blanc and the Savoy HotelDid you know, the famed Savoy Hotel inLondon is so named because of its historicconnection with the noble house of Savoie!Pierre II of Savoie, uncle of Eleanor ofProvence, came to England with his niece tohelp look after her when she was married toKing Henry III. In royal service, Pierre II wasgranted land in central London where he hada mansion built by the Thames from 1263.Although he died soon after, and the placewas later destroyed, the famed hotel built inthe late-19th century in the same locationbetween Strand and Thames recalls theSavoyard connection.


Thomas Cook and Queen Victoria.After the horrors of the FirstWorld War, the 1920s saw Savoiejoyously host the first-ever WinterOlympics, at Chamonix in 1924.During the Second World War,Savoie was occupied by Italiantroops, then the Germans. Resistancegroups fought back from the moun-tain heights.

Savoie in Our Tourist TimesTimes hugely changed after the war.Major new ski resorts sprang up athigh altitude. However, new moun-tain villages were also built respectingtraditional forms. Conservation and

ecology were on the agenda. Lacd'Annecy, suffering from pollution,was quickly cleaned up, to become thepurest lake in Europe. Savoie followedthe Italian example of the GranParadiso National Park, creating theadjoining Parc National de la Vanoise.Regional nature parks were latercreated to protect the authenticity ofthe Bauges and the Chartreuse ranges.Numerous Réserves Naturelles nowprotect important ecological areas.While Albertville hosted the WinterOlympics in 1992, recently, many ofour mountain resorts have beenturning their attention increasingly tothe seasons beyond skiing.

Savoyard People and TraditionsWhile some rue the passing of old ways,life has vastly improved for manySavoyards in our tourist age. In timespast, the majority led a tough mountainexistence. Winters were extremelyharsh and long, families sharing theirlodgings with their animals simply tokeep warm…but festivities, andcostumes, were colourful. However,many men had to leave in the coldseasons to find work in the Frenchcapital and in less mountainousregions, for example working as door-to-door salesmen. A large number ofSavoyard boys were sent off to bechimney sweeps. Becoming glamorousmountain guides can seem ratherappealing by comparison!Although farming ways have radicallychanged since the war, some hardyfarmers still maintain the gruellingsummer ritual of following their herdsinto the high pastures, staying in rusticchalets d'alpage. More generally acrossSavoie Mont Blanc, old ways and tradi-tions are showcased in local museums.All around the region you can findplaces recalling fascinating skills, forexample of clock-making in the Arve,wood-working around Thônes, bell-making at Sévrier, jewellery- and lace-making in the Tarentaise, cloth-makingat the Filature Arpin in Séez, or Opinelknife-making in St-Jean-de-Maurienne.

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La Clementina 1690 - 1761.The children of Charles-Emmanuel III of Savoie.

Village festival withtraditional Savoyardcostumes.

The Elephants'Fountain, Chambéry.

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Lac Léman, or LakeGenevaOK, so Savoie shares LacLéman with Switzerland,but most of the southernbank and waters of this,the largest lake in WesternEurope, are French. Thelakeside villages are exqui-site, Yvoire with its water-side castle and strikingmar ina much-pr ized .

Neighbouring Nernier competes inprettiness, a plaque recalling howMary Shelley penned some of her chil-ling novel Frankenstein here, on acelebrated holiday she spent by thelake in 1816. Then come rival townsThonon-les-Bains and Evian-les-Bains, both extremely appealing spaand sailing resorts covered in moredetail in our City Breaks pages. All thelakeside villages have really appealingbeaches. Boat cruises, sailing, swim-ming and rowing are extremelypopular on Lac Léman.

Lac du BourgetLac du Bourget may be familiar toyou for august Aix-les-Bains, itsthermal spa resort rising above themodern sailing town beside thewaters. Go right round this mountain-surrounded lake to appreciate itswonderful smaller ports and astoun-ding belvederes. With your Britishsensibilities, you will perhaps sensethe presence of Queen Victoria. As tothe lords of Savoie, they chose theAbbaye de Hautecombe as their finalresting place. It looks like a spiritualship launching into the lake; you cantake a look inside. Lake cruises go asfar as the Canal de Savières to the veryattractive village of Chanaz.

Lac d'AnnecyLac d'Annecy is often described as themost beautiful lake in France, encir-cled by stunning mountains, reflectedin crystal-clear waters. Some of thefinest hotels in France have baggedprime locations along its eastern

bank, notably in stunning Veyrier-du-Lac and Talloires. Between these tworises the most famous castle on thelake, the Château de Menthon St-Bernard, a castle to inspire WaltDisney. The western side has family-friendly resorts, and gentler sandybeaches with equally good mountainviews. The splendid city of Annecy isthe main point of departure for boattrips on the lake; but from the enchan-ting village resorts all around, sailing,windsurfing and waterskiing arepossible, not forgetting pédalos!

Lac d'AiguebeletteLac d'Aiguebelette is a wonderfullywell-kept secret of a lake, hidden bysmall mountains west of Chambéry. It's also literally quieter than ourother great lakes, as motor boatsaren't allowed on its waters.Fishermen slip out silently on theirbarques. Rowers strain at their oars;the place even hosted the 1997world rowing championships. Ontop of that Aiguebelette claims tohave the warmest waters of Savoie'sgreat lakes. Its beaches have excel-lent facilities, so they're ideal forfamily holidays.

Savoie Mont Blanc boasts of four great lakes: Lacd'Annecy, Lac d'Aiguebelette, Lac du Bourget, and thesensational, southern half of Lac Léman. In warm weather,they're all brilliant for swimming and water sports.

SAVOIE MONT BLANC'S GREAT LAKES

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Opposite:Going swimmingfrom one of Lac

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Right-hand photo:Fishermen's

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Nesting grebe in theRéserve naturelle du

Lac du Bourget.

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Thermal spas (thermes in French)aren' t a new fad in Savoie ; theRomans loved the therapeutic quali-ties of the waters of Aix-les-Bains,most famously. In the last few years,lots of our thermal spa resorts havetransformed themselves to offertourist well-being breaks. You cangenerally sign on for just a day or two,or you can opt for a longer break.Aix-les-Bains in fact has two majorthermal spa centres. In the heart of theold town stands the Art Deco façadeof the well-established ThermesNationaux. Up the hillside, thecontemporary Thermes Chevalley,with their state-of-the-art facilities, liein an airy location. Near Chambéry,Challes-les-Eaux lies in a lovely posi-tion below the Bauges mountains.Evian-les-Bains and Thonon-les-Bainsare neighbouring thermal spa townson the banks of Lac Léman. Evian hasa modern, small-scale spa centre, in astylish contemporary building. Itsspeciality is offering mother and babyrelaxation courses. Thonon's spa faci-lities are set in an attractive park closeto the lake. Close to Mont Blanc, St-Gervais-les-Bains has a sweet thermal spa beside

a restful green park. Hot mud treat-ments are a particular feature of St-Gervais, which has developed its ownrange of highly regarded skin-careproducts. Other thermal spas such asEvian and Aix-les-Bains have alsocreated their own ranges.

Brides-les-Bains in the Vanoise is sowidely recognized in France for itsslimming spa breaks that it has beenrebaptized the Village pour Maigrir,or Slimmers' Village! It offers anappealing way of combining a slim-ming course with the pleasures of themountains. Nearby, the Thermes atLa Léchère have also recently openedtheir doors to well-being spa breaks. Several of these spa resorts offer thetemptations of a casino. That at Evianstands in a prime location along thepromenade. The one in Aix-les-Bains isin a 19th-century extravaganza. Brides-les-Bains also has a casino.On a slightly different note, several ofSavoie Mont Blanc's top hotels havepampering spa centres of their own,among the most glamorous, those atthe Fermes de Marie in Megève and atthe recently opened trendy BuddhaSpa in Evian's new lakeside Hilton.

SAVOIE MONT BLANC'S SPA BREAKS

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SAVOIE MONT BLANC'S BRITISH LINKS: Queen Victoria Takes to Our WatersThe Victorians came to love our great lakes as well as our great mountains. Novisitor was more illustrious than Queen Vic herself, who first visited the Alpswhile still in mourning for her beloved Albert, advised by her doctors to try thetherapeutic mountain air. She came to particularly appreciate Aix-les-Bains. Although she travelled under pseudonyms like the Countess ofKent or Countess of Balmoral, inevitably news spread of her royalpresence. She apparently liked to take tea and scones overlooking Lac duBourget, and is said to have considered buying a home in the area. The fashionwas clearly set for British of good breeding to spend time by Savoie's lakes!

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Top: Deep relaxation from a massagewith hot stones.Bust of Queen Victoria at Aix-les-Bains.Above: The new Hilton Hotel with itsBuddha Spa at Evian-les-Bains.Opposite: Indoor pool at the ThermesChevalley spa, Aix-les-Bains.

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Many of our most celebratedcities lie in unforgettable loca-tions beside, or close to, ourgreat lakes.

AnnecyMagical Annecy, by general agree-ment Savoie Mont Blanc's mostbeautiful city, and one of the mostgorgeous in France, is often describedas the country's answer to Venice. Itscanals reflect beautiful houses in theircrystal-clear waters. Along thearcaded streets, the boutiques andrestaurants are irresistible, as well asthe churches. Annecy's most famousbuilding, the Palais de l'Isle, containsone museum, Annecy castle andConservatoire d'Art et d'Histoirehave several more, one focusing onlacustrine life. Swimming and water-sports are available a stone's throwfrom the centre, or take a cruise boator pédalo out on the lake.

ChambéryCharming Chambéry just south of Lacdu Bourget defends its premier posi-tion as historic capital of Savoie, but

also boasts striking contemporaryarchitecture. You can visit the château,administrative headquarters of theregion, at certain times; its Sainte-Chapelle once held Christianity's mostfamous shroud. The generous castlecourtyard opens for free eveningconcerts in summer. The arcadedstreets and attractive squares belowhave tempting cafés and shops, thelatter selling many culinary speciali-ties. Some of Chambéry's grandestbuildings house excellent art andhistory museums, and displays on thesurrounding mountain ranges. A walk

away up one slope stands the countryhouse where Jean-Jacques Rousseauspent some of his happiest times.

Aix-les-BainsAix-les-Bains in its privileged locationbeside Lac du Bourget has two sidesto it. We've already mentioned therenowned thermal spas, Romanremains and glamorous casino up theslope. In the upper town, also strollround the squares and public gardens,and don't miss the surprising MuséeFaure art museum. Down at the lake,Aix-les-Bains' port area has beengrowing rapidly. In recognition of itsexceptional facilities, this became thefirst inland port in France to bedeclared a Station Nautique, a majorachievement. Aix-les-Bains also has itsown golf course, plus the only racecourse in Savoie.

Evian-les-BainsEvian, beside Lac Léman, has carvedout a niche for itself with its luxuryhotels, often chosen for honeymoonsas well as international conferences.The main French port for cruisesacross Léman, it has wonderfulmarinas, and has recently spruced

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SAVOIE MONT BLANC'S BRITISH LINKS: De Boigne and BritainAn extraordinary elephant monument stands out in central Chambéry.It doesn't pay homage to Hannibal, but to a local man who gainedfame and fortune in India, General Benoît de Boigne. He stands atopChambéry's column, supported by four pachyderms who look digni-fied despite lacking posteriors! Winning numerous battles in India, deBoigne then governed huge territories along the Ganges. On hisreturn to Europe, he proved generous to his hometown of Chambéry,paying for hospitals and provisions for the poor. He also spent time inLondon, buying a sumptuous house on Portland Place. Even grantedBritish citizenship, he had arrived in England with an Indian wife andtwo children, but neglected them terribly, infatuated by a Frenchémigrée aristocrat on whom he doted, and whom he also married!

The Château d'Annecy and a lake cruising boat on the Thiou, seen from Annecy's Jardins de l'Europe.

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up its centre behind the lake. Itsrenowned golf course hosts interna-tional tournaments. Evian's culturalscene is thriving, and has been greatlyadded to recently with the opening ofthe Palais Lumière. Don't miss the freecable-car ride up the slope, or thesolar-powered boat trip to the gardensof Les Jardins du Pré Curieux. Thenthere are the famous waters to taste,from the free Cachat springs abovethe glamorous Art Nouveau BuvetteThermale, or by visiting the AmphionEvian water-bottling factory.

Thonon-les-BainsThonon, Evian's lake-side neigh-bour, boasts a longer history,recalled in the town's museum, but also in the Château de Ripailleon the outskirts, surrounded byvineyards! Like Evian, Thonon has adelightful promenade and beaches,but on top of that it has won the prestigious label of StationNautique for its first-class water-sports facilities. The upper town, upa cliff reached by cable car, hasreally appealing shopping andhighly decorated twin churches ofdistinction.

ChamonixChamonix is Savoie's most famousmountain town, packed in allseasons with those wishing toworship Mont Blanc. Great cable-carrides help you get closer to its whitecoat-tails, while the Montenverstrain leads up to the Mer de Glace,the best-known glacier in France. Inthe centre, there are plenty of alpineshops and museum spaces. A magni-ficent golf course lies towardsArgentière.

Albertville and ConflansAlbertville shares the distinction, withChamonix, of having hosted a WinterOlympics. It has an amusing museumrecalling the 1992 games, for whichthe place was smartened up. Earliergrand buildings in the centre went upfor the 19th-century Charles-Albert ofSavoie, after whom the town isnamed. Much of the tourist attentionfocuses on Conflans, the enchantinghistoric village just up the hill.

Moûtiers and St-Jean-de-MaurienneRespective capitals of the Tarentaiseand Maurienne valleys, these areinteresting historic cities. So oftenignored by skiers rushing to thesnow resorts far above, both makegood cultural stops. Each has a finecathedral, among other grand buil-dings, and is well worth visiting onmarket day.

MegèveMegève is a class act, a very well-polished big village bursting withluxurious boutiques, hotels andrestaurants. Surrounded by lovelywalking terrain, it has a prized golfcourse. Hot-air ballooning ispossible from Praz-sur-Arly downthe road.

The casino at Aix-les-Bains, openedin 1850 by KingVictor-Emmanuel II.

Below, we highlight some of our best mountain towns.

Set below the Bauges, Val d'Arlyand Beaufortain, Albertville hasbenefited greatly from its make-

over for the 1992 Winter Olympics.

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Chamonix, capitalof Alpinemountaineering,and its adorablechurch steeple.

Les Jardins de l'Eau du PréCurieux atEvian-les-Bainspresent a seriesof illustrativewater gardens.


châteaux & forts12

From fairytale châteaux watchingover our lakes to forbiddingcastles guarding strategicvalleys, Savoie is peppered withmore castles than you mightimagine. Below, we concentrateon some you can visit.

Lake Châteaux The most memorable Savoyard castlesstand out around Lac d'Annecy. TheChâteau d'Annecy contains a series ofinteresting museums. The fascinatingChâteau de Menthon St-Bernard isclosely connected to that great saint.Within striking distance, the Châteaud'Arenthon has been given a daringmake-over, turned to contemporaryart. On our side of Lac Léman, nocastle can outdo the Château d'Yvoirefor drama. As to the magnificentChâteau de Ripaille, it was once hometo the dukes of Savoie.

Valley Châteaux and FortsNortheast of Annecy, the turretedChâteau de Thorens retains warmfamily memories of St François deSales, and of his distant descendant,politician Camillo Cavour, whounited Italy. West of Annecy, theimposing Château de Montrottieroffers a traditional tour, with fabulousart works, above the Gorges du Fier,another tourist sight. Towards the Rhône, the ruins of theChâteau de Chaumont merit theclimb, but the magnificent Château deClermont has kept many of itsRenaissance charms intact. In theAvant-Pays Savoyard, scour the hillsfor dramatic castle ruins, while theChâteau de Montfleury holds aneclectic collection of arms and art.

Along the Isère and Arc, the Châteaude Miolans still maintains its impres-sive guard over the confluence of thetwo, even if the Marquis de Sademanaged to escape when he wasimprisoned here. Many later militaryforts also survive, for example thoseof Tamié or La Platte along the Isère.As to the Maurienne, its bristles withforts, several of which you can visit.

Route Historique des Ducs de SavoieThis tourist route guides you round toa dozen places, both castles andabbeys, intimately associated with thehistory of Savoie's dynasty.

SAVOIE MONT BLANC'S CHATEAUX AND FORTS

Opposite: The spectacular series of forts known as theBarrière de l'Esseillon was built between 1820 and 1833 to protect Savoie's independence. Ranging over 250m in altitude from top to bottom, it spreads along some 3km.

Photo below: Le Château de Ripaille. The castle lay amidstsome of the favourite hunting grounds of the counts ofSavoie, and became one of their best-loved residences.

Left-hand photo: The Château de Miolans. Builtbetween 1475 and 1500, this was one of Savoie's most

significant castles. Transformed into a prison from1600, the Marquis de Sade was imprisoned here a

time, but managed to escape.

Photo below: The Château de Menthon-St-Bernard.This impressive château looks down onto Lac

d'Annecy. It's said that it inspired Walt Disney and hisillustrations of Sleeping Beauty's castle.

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SAVOIE MONT BLANC'S BRITISH LINKS: Seducing British RomanticsBritish Romantics were profoundly moved bytheir voyages to these parts after the Revolution,and inspired by Savoie. That supreme walkerWordsworth was captivated by the 'wondrousvale of Chamouni'. Byron and Shelley followed,the latter writing of his first sighting of MontBlanc: 'The immensity of these aerial summitsexcited…a sentiment of ecstatic wonder notunallied to madness.' As to Mary Shelley, shepenned some of the pages of her spine-chilling,ground-breaking novel Frankenstein on Savoie'sside of Lac Léman. And Turner depicted some ofour great Romantic settings.


religious legacy 13

It's not just nature's magnifi-cence that speaks to the soul inSavoie. The region also has anuplifting religious legacy.

Cathedrals and Town ChurchesAnnecy is known for its clutch ofsplendid major churches, Chambéryfor its Sainte-Chapelle that once heldChrist's shroud, while its cathedral iscovered head-to-toe with trompe-l'œils,a speciality of the city. Moûtiers andSt-Jean-de-Maurienne have impres-sive cathedrals. Thonon is anothertown with particularly interestingchurches, one decorated with remark-able murals by Maurice Denis.

Country Churches and ChapelsRemains of Romanesque 11th and12th century churches are rare inSavoie, but Aime in the Tarentaise hasa remarkable one, with period murals.The Romanesque frescoes in thechapel of Allinges castle above LacLéman are also striking.The Gothic period, going from themid-12th to the mid-16th century, ismuch better represented. Monasteriesused to fight it out in the Chablais. Theruins of Notre-Dame-d'Aulps nowmake a peaceful, Romantic picture;Abondance is better preserved, withatmospheric frescoes. Savoie's mostfamous monastery, still serving as such,is the Abbaye of Hautecombe besideLac du Bourget. Resting place of thehouse of Savoy, its church was extrava-gantly redecorated for the family in the19th century. Another establishmentthat still holds a religious community isTamié abbey, perched high up in theBauges; the monks are devoted toprayer, work, and cheese-making!

One of the most interesting collectionsof Gothic churches in Savoie is thoseof the Haute Maurienne, with asto-nishing mural cycles - don't missLanslebourg, Lanslevillard andBessans.With the Protestant religious revolu-tion of the 16th century, manySavoyards converted. The Catholic

Church responded with reform acrossEurope. Accompanying this camevibrant church decoration to seducethe people back to Catholicism.Through the 17th century, Savoie'schurch interiors were brightlypainted, the altarpieces covered withexuberant statues and swarms of pinkputti, plus lashings of gilding wereadded for glitz. Saints were evendepicted on church exteriors, whilemany steeples were given spikedonion tops.Among Savoie Mont Blanc's contem-porary churches, the one at Passy nearMont Blanc is outstanding, withworks inside by Bonnard, Braque,Chagall and Rouault.

Chemins du BaroqueYou can follow the Baroque themewith our Chemins du Baroque,specially marked routes in the Vald'Arly, Beaufortain, Tarentaise andMaurienne. There's also a Sentier duBaroque in the north of the region.

SAVOIE MONT BLANC'S SPIRITUAL SIDE

Right-hand photo: St-Pierre-d'Extravache's chapel

of St Peter's, Bramans.

Opposite: A Baroque cherubs.

Below: The cloister of Abondance abbey.

Hautecombe abbey on the banks of Lac du Bourget, resting place of the princes of Savoie.

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Our Comely CowsGive our cows the respect they're due!With their clarine bells ringing acrossthe valleys once they're allowed out oftheir winter dwellings, they bring a wonderfully cheerful note to ourAlpine pastures. Through their hardlabour, they munch their way throughvast meadows to produce exception-ally rich milk for our divinelyflavoursome cheeses. It has to be said,they do appear to accomplish theirtask with some relish. And one greatadvantage about our cows is thatthey're much easier to spot than ibex!The two main breeds are ruddyAbondance and tawny Tarines.

Our Wild AnimalsWith their huge, curved, serrated horns,the male of the ibex (bouquetin), akind of mountain goat, make a memo-rable sight, if you're lucky enough tospot them. Your best chance is in theVanoise range, one of their favourite

haunts, even if they remain rare.Almost driven to extinction by hunters,they are now a highly protectedspecies.More common thanibex, the chamoismountain goats arealmost as good moun-taineers. You can tellthem from their hornsin the shape of coathooks.Marmots are very cute,big rodents, out on theslopes between Apriland September, gettingchubbier through theseason, fattening up forhibernation. Mountainhares change colourfrom white to grey in the warmerseason. The rare wolf has been sightedon the Vanoise frontier with Italy.The golden eagle is one of the mostimpressive birds of prey to spot circlingabove you. A commoner high-altitudebird you may find following you upmountains is the Alpine chough, oftenconfused with a jackdaw. Special rarebirds include the black grouse, theptarmigan and the rock partridge.Particularly colourful feathered friendsto stand out on our slopes and cliffsinclude the red crossbill, the orange-breasted rock thrush, and the deep-pink winged wallcreeper. The Alpineeagle owl is the largest European owl.Then there are a host of butterflies tofocus on closer to the ground, aglorious sight in summer.

If ibex are the shy stars of the animal kingdom in Savoie MontBlanc, don't consider our cows common place. They make ahuge contribution to our region.

SAVOIE MONT BLANC'SANIMAL KINGDOM(NOT FORGETTING THE COWS!)

animal kingdom14

SAVOIE MONT BLANC'S BRITISH LINKS: Beyond Shammy LeatherHunters through to the 20th century brought about the near-destruc-tion of Savoie's ibex population, and decimated that of its chamois.The ibex in centuries past was thought to have magical properties,and added to medecines. As to the poor chamois, the British are mostfamiliar with its name in the so-called shammy leathers used to wipedown their cars! The skins of these hardy mountain animals are, it'strue, amazingly absorbent. Nowadays, luckily, these magnificentmountain species are protected, shammy leathers made mainly fromsynthetic textiles. If you're lucky, and patient, you may spot thesewonderful creatures where they should be, clambering nimbly aroundour high ranges.P.

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The animal kindgom - spot the marmot;the Tarine cow; the royal eagle;

the ibex; the chamois.

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nature 15

One of the most colourfulimages you may have of SavoieMont Blanc in summer is ofhigh meadows thick with Alpineflowers, all set against glitteringmountain tops. The flowersemerge relatively late of course,but June is a fabulous month tobegin discovering them. Julyand August are good too forhigh-altitude flora.

Parks and Réserves Naturellesin Savoie Mont BlancAcross Savoie Mont Blanc, the ParcNational de la Vanoise, the regionalnature parks of the Bauges and theChartreuse, and a large number ofRéserves Naturelles have all beencreated to protect their special envi-ronments and zones of exceptionalecological interest, which oftencontain rare flora and fauna, or maybe particularly fragile. There are rulesto respect within the Reserves - forexample, the picking of plants isstrictly forbidden, and dogs are notallowed, as they may disturb the wild-life. Some of the best known of ourRéserves Naturelles include the Rocde Chère beside Lac d'Annecy (to

which you can go on a guided tour,via special cruise), the Sixt Reserveabove the Giffre valley, and theAiguilles Rouges Reserve opposite theMassif du Mont Blanc.

Gardens in Savoie Mont BlancThe region's cows seem to do much ofthe gardening across Savoie MontBlanc, keeping the meadows undercontrol. But there is the odd delightfulmore elaborate jardin created bySavoyards. Two of the best lie besideLac Léman. The walled Jardins desCinq Sens of the Château d'Yvoireprovide enchanting corners appealingto the different senses. As to theJardins de l'Eau du Pré Curieux besideEvian, with their delightful array ofwater gardens and clear ecologicalmessages, you reach them via solar-powered boat.Not far south, in the Giffre Valley,visit one of the most astonishingrockeries in Europe, the Jardin AlpinLa Jaÿsinia, in the gorgeous village ofSamoëns, given as a gift by a local girlmade good, after she had married aParis retail magnate. Quite a present,as it apparently took 250 gardenersthree years to complete!

Other remarkable gardens in ourregion include the Chanousia alpinegarden, up at over 2,000m, close tothe Petit-St-Bernard pass, and thesurprisingly exotic patchwork of theJardins Secrets at Lagnat, downbetween Annecy and the Rhône.In Savoie Mont Blanc's towns andvillages, great pride is often taken infloral displays. The likes of Annecy,Aix-les-Bains, Evian, Nances andThonon-les-Bains are renowned fortheir urban blooms. In fact, Annecywas declared hors concours, beyondcompetition, as it won the nationalflower trophy so many times!

SAVOIE MONT BLANC'SPARKS, NATURE RESERVES AND GARDENS

The Jardin des 5 Sens at the Châteaud'Yvoire beside Lac Léman.

Picking summer flowers. Typical mountain meadows. Balcony flowers at Le Grand-Bornand in the Aravis.

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cuisine16

The cheese course has to comefirst when discussing Savoie Mont Blanc's cuisine!

The Cheese BoardThis is a country for those divine,deeply sociable cheese dishes, fondueand raclette. Cheese connoisseurssavour individual appellation d'ori-gine contrôlée (AOC) fromages.Among the hard cow's cheeses, BeaufortAOC, described by one of France's greatest culinary experts, Brillat-Savarin, as 'Prince des Gruyères', hasthe highest reputation, the beefy villageof Beaufort its principal producer,although it can be made over quite awide radius. A rarer hard cow's cheese,AOC Abondance is made in theChablais. Tomme de Savoie, anotherclassic, is easier to find. As to Tomedes Bauges, it has a distinctive flavour,its own AOC, and is even spelt diffe-rently from the rest, with just the one'm'. The monks at the abbey of Tamié,also in the Bauges, make a decentcheese.AOC Reblochon is a delicious gooiercow's cheese. Seek out traditionalReblochon fermier around Le Grand-

Bornand and La Clusaz in the Aravisrange, the main centre of production.Bleu de Termignon is a rare bluecheese made in the Maurienne. Incontrast, vast amounts of Emmentalare produced in our region, notably inthe Avant-Pays Savoyard. Some goat'sand sheep's cheeses can also be found,the Chevrotin goat's cheese awardedAOC status in 2002.

Meat and FishCharcuterie has long been importantin the mountain communities. Thehams can be excellent. Diots areperhaps the best known of Savoie'stasty sausages made with herbs.Farcement, or farçon, is a special meatdish, the baking tin lined with bacon,then filled with a mix of grated pota-toes, dried fruits, and that traditionalfavourite, cabbage.Lake fish are highly prized. Look forthe likes of féra or lavaret and omblechevalier (char) on menus. Lake perchand trout are also popular. Closelylinked with Italy, Savoie Mont Blanchas its traditions of polenta, madewith corn, and pasta, notably crozets,little crosses added to soups.

For the Sweet-ToothedMountain honey is often delicious,and berries feature frequently insummer tarts. Orchards still producegood summer and autumn fruit.Gateau de Savoie is a type of lightsponge cake known across France.Mountain liqueurs can be used toflavour puddings. You'll find excellentpâtissiers and chocolatiers around theregion, particularly in the big towns.

Fine RestaurantsFrom traditional rustic cuisine tofabulously refined contemporary crea-tions, Savoie Mont Blanc is renownedfor its restaurants. It boasts an impres-sive 23 Michelin-starred addresses,the most famous being celebrity chefMarc Veyrat's Auberge de l'Eridan atVeyrier-du-Lac beside Lac d'Annecy.

SAVOIE MONT BLANC'SCUISINE

From left to right: mountain charcuterie; gâteau de Savoie sponge cake; Savoyard fondue; Savoie apples- the region is reputed for its fruit, such as apples, pears and raspberries.

Ageing cellar for Beaufort cheese, known as the 'Prince of Gruyères'.

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wines, spirits & waters 17

Savoie Mont Blanc's Vineyardsand Wine RoutesCertain of our vineyards grow rightup close to Lac Léman, for examplearound the Château de Ripaille. Tojoin our Rhône wine route, headsouth of Geneva for Frangy, a firstpleasant wine town. Then make forSeyssel right by the great river, in anarea producing delightfully fragrantwhite wines. Passing south, youemerge in the Chautagne, a strikingstretch of the Rhône valley lined withvines, Ruffieux the main centre ofproduction, with its large cooperative.Skirt round the northern end of Lacdu Bourget to end with the mostamazing stretch of all, the Marestelvineyards on the western flanks of theMont de la Charvaz, the Lucey,Jongieux and Billième wineries stan-ding in superb locations.The section of the Isère valley that hasproved conducive to wine-producingstretches between Albertville andChambéry, on the outer side of theBauges range. As well as wineries tovisit, you'll encounter the odd winemuseum along the way. Follow thesteep mid-slope trail south. ReachingMontmélian, turn the corner for themost staggeringly beautiful vineyardsof the Cluse de Chambéry, liningeither bank of the broad valleyleading to Savoie's historic capital.Famous wine villages here includeApremont and Chignin.

Savoie Mont Blanc's SpiritsMountain herbs were not just usedin traditional Savoie medicine, but also in traditional Savoiespirits, some of which claimed tohave medicinal properties, amongthem Corbier, to be visited in St-Jean-de-Maurienne. Morewidely known is génépi, made froma single mountain plant. Alsoseek out Chamberizette, aunique dry vermouth flavouredwith Alpine strawberries.

Savoie Mont Blanc's World-Famous WaterSavoie Mont Blanc's springsproduce some famous mineral

waters, that of Evian being the best-selling still mineral water in theworld. You can visit its bottlingfactory at neighbouring Amphion if you sign up for a tour at the glamo-rous Art Nouveau Buvette Thermalein the centre of Evian. Just above this,

people queue to top up on mineralwater for free at the delightfully

decorated Source Cachat. Thononand Aix-les-Bains count amongother centres producing mineralwater.

You may be surprised that mountainous Savoie Mont Blanc producesexcellent wines, both white and red, under some 22 appellationsd'origine contrôlée! Slopes clearly aren't lacking in these parts; youdo though need precise conditions for grape-growing, especially ataltitude. All our vineyards stand in staggeringly beautiful locations.

SAVOIE MONT BLANC'SWINES, SPIRITS AND WATERS

Vermouth de Savoie, a delicious wineflavoured witharomatic herbs,similar to Martini.

Savoie Mont Blanc vines - the Chignin vineyards lie on our wine route, La Route des Vins.

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activities18

Summer just as much as inwinter, extreme thrills and spillsare easy to find across SavoieMont Blanc. They're possible inspring and autumn also. So tooare gentler activities year-round!

Taking to the AirParagliding (parapente) was born inthese parts. It's a great sport to prac-tise over our mountains and lakes.Hang-gliding (deltaplane) is an alter-native option to make you feel likeyou're flying like a bird over SavoieMont Blanc. For hot-air ballooning,Courchevel, Les Carroz and Praz-sur-Arly (near Megève) have companiesoffering astounding trips. Plane andhelicopter operators can organizeunforgettable tourist flights.

Taking on the MountainsMountaineering is a major pursuit.L'escalade, rock-climbing, is clearlyappreciated too. Via ferrata alsorequires technical skill and courage,with its cables, walkways and ladders. Walking or hiking in the mountains isof course hugely popular - the rewardsare immense, the scenery unbeatable inEurope. Remember that cable cars andski lifts offer an easy way to get up onhigh in summer. Mountain-biking hasbecome a major draw in recent times,many ski resorts opening their lifts tomountain bikes. You'll also findpopular tree-top accrobranches assaultcourses popping up in woods andforests around Savoie Mont Blanc.

Taking to the WatersFor canoeing and white-water-rafting,Bourg-St-Maurice is highly regarded,as is the Dranse near Lac Léman. Outwest, stretches of the Rhône andGuiers are well geared to canoeing.Diving is possible in the great lakes.Then there is the full range of watersports delights such as swimming,sailing, rowing and windsurfing onthe great lakes.

Gentler PursuitsGolf in gorgeous surrounds is one bigdraw. Evian has a reputed club, hostingmajor international tournaments.There are lovely courses around Lacd'Annecy, at Talloires and Giez, whileAix-les-Bains also has a prestigiousclub. Incidentally, Aix boasts the onehorse-racing track in Savoie MontBlanc, the Hippodrome de Marlioz. Inthe mountains, there are fine golfcourses at the likes of Chamonix,Courchevel, Megève and Méribel.For hiking and cycling on the flat, trythe gorgeous terrain around our greatlakes, or along sections of certainvalleys. For example, bike beside theRhône, around Lac d'Aiguebelette, intothe vineyards close to Chambéry, ordown the west bank of Lac d'Annecy.Possibilities are numerous for fishing incalm lakes or bubbling torrents. Thenthere are all those beaches for loungingin the sunshine around our extraordi-nary mountain-surrounded lakes.

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appreciate activities in stunningsurrounds here, such as swimming,

tree-top assault courses, golf,paragliding, or hiking.

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TOURIST INFORMATION ON SAVOIE MONT BLANC For all manner of tourist informationon Savoie Mont Blanc, you can finda great deal of information on ourwebsite, with English version, on www.savoie-mont-blanc.comOr contact us by phone on

+33 820 00 73 74 [the price ofan ordinary call to France fromBritain] or by email.Please note that our regionalwebsite gives contact details onthe very useful network of touristoffices around Savoie Mont Blanc.

TRANSPORT TO SAVOIE MONT BLANC THROUGH THE SEASONSBY AIR Flybe, Flyglobespan and Jet2 fly direct from certain British airports to Chambéry/Aix-les-Bains. A far larger number of airlines, as well as those listedabove, fly to Geneva, Grenoble andLyon; they include Aer Lingus, AirFrance, British Airways, bmibaby,easyJet, Ryanair and Swiss International Airlines.BY RAIL Consult Rail Europe (www.raileurope.co.uk) for detailedtrain information. Example: fromParis to Chambéry by TVG, 2h50or from Paris to Annecy, 3h30.

BY CAR Coming down eastern Francefrom Britain and the Channelferries, you can use the A6 orA39 motorways to head rapidlytowards Savoie Mont Blanc,branching onto either the A40,A43, or A49 to reach us.

SAVOIE MONT BLANC ACCOMMODATION THROUGH THE SEASONS You'll find plenty of informationon our website regarding holidayaccommodation of all sorts.You can also order our specialannual brochure, SéjoursRéservation (in French only at themoment on +33 479 85 01 09).If you wish to hire a holidayhome, or gîte, there are twoFrench national associationsthat offer such accommodation,Gîtes de France (www.gites-de-f r a n c e - s a v o i e . c o m a n dwww.gites-de-france-haute-savoie.com) and Clévacances(www.clevacances .com ) .Alternatively, seek out specialistcompanies. Tourist offices canalso help you in your request(see list on our website).

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+33 820 00 73 74[ the pr ice of an ord inary ca l l t o F r a n c e f r o m B r i t a i n ]


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Savoie Mont Blanc Magazine N°1