San Francisco - Contents - Lonely Planetmedia.lonelyplanet.com/shop/pdfs/San Francisco 8 - Contents.pdf · PACIFIC HEIGHTS THE MARINA NOB HILL THE RICHMOND NOE VALLEY THE MISSION

Contents

Welcome to San Francisco ................... 4

San Francisco’s Top 10 ................................ 6

What’s NewWhat’s New ......................1313

Need to Know ..................14

Top Itineraries .................16

If You Like… ......................18

Month by Month ............. 22

With Kids ......................... 25

Eating ............................. 27Drinking & Nightlife......31

Entertainment ..............34GLBT ............................... 37Shopping ........................39Sports & Activities ...... 41Cable Cars .....................45

Plan Your Trip page 1

Understand San Francisco 251

Survival Guide 287

San Francisco Maps 313

Plan Your Trip 4

Explore San Francisco 48

Transportation .............288 Directory A–Z ...............294 Index ..............................303

San Francisco Today ............................. 252

History ...........................254

Local Cuisine & Drinks ..267

Literary San Francisco ................271

Visual Arts ..................... 273

San Francisco Music .... 276

San FranciscoArchitecture ..................280

Hills & Fog .....................284

The Marina, Fisherman’s Wharf & the Piers ........... 52

Downtown & Civic Center ..74

North Beach & Chinatown ....................... 98

The Hills & Japantown .. 115

The Mission, SoMa & Potrero Hill .................... 130

The Castro & Noe Valley ..................... 164

The Haight & Hayes Valley ...................174

Golden Gate Park & the Avenues .................. 190

Day Trips from San Francisco .....................206

Sleeping ......................238

© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

ExploreSan FranciscoNeighborhoods at a Glance . . . . . . . . . . . . .50

The Marina, Fisherman’s Wharf & the Piers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52Top Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .62Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .66Drinking & Nightlife . . . . . . .70Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . .70Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71Sports & Activities . . . . . . . . 72

Downtown & Civic Center . . . . . . . . . 74Top Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 78Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .84Drinking & Nightlife . . . . . . .89Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . .92Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .95

North Beach & Chinatown . . . . . . . . . . 98Top Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 102Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .108Drinking & Nightlife . . . . . . 110Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . 112Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 112

The Hills & Japantown . . . . . . . . . 115Top Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .117Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 118Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 122Drinking & Nightlife . . . . . . 124Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . 125Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 126Sports & Activities . . . . . . . 129

The Mission, SoMa & Potrero Hill . . . . . . 130Top Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 132Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 134Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 142Drinking & Nightlife . . . . . . 148Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . 154Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 158Sports & Activities . . . . . . . 161

The Castro & Noe Valley . . . . . . . . . . . . . 164Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 166Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 166Drinking & Nightlife . . . . . . 170Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . 172Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 172

The Haight & Hayes Valley . . . . . . . . . . . . . 174Top Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 176Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 177

Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .180Drinking & Nightlife . . . . . . 183Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . 185Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 186Sports & Activities . . . . . . . 189

Golden Gate Park & the Avenues . . . . . . . . 190Top Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 192Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 195Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 198Drinking & Nightlife . . . . . .201Entertainment . . . . . . . . . 202Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 203Sports & Activities . . . . . . 204

Day Trips from San Francisco . . . . . . . . . .206Berkeley . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .207Oakland . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .210Napa Valley . . . . . . . . . . . . . 214Sonoma Valley . . . . . . . . . . 219Healdsburg & Dry Creek Valley . . . . . . . . . . . . .224Muir Woods & Muir Beach . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .227Sausalito & Tiburon . . . . . .228Point Reyes National Seashore . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .232Hwy 1 to Santa Cruz . . . . .235

Sleeping . . . . . . . . . . .238

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Alcatraz ..............................54

Fisherman’s Wharf ...........56

Golden Gate Bridge & the Marina ..........................59

Ferry Building & Justin Herman Plaza ....................76

Asian Art Museum ............77

Chinatown Alleyways .... 100

Coit Tower ........................ 101

Lombard St .......................117

San Francisco Museum of Modern Art ..................132

Mission Murals ................133

Haight St .......................... 176

Golden Gate Park ............192

TOP SIGHTSSAN FRANCISCO’S

49

313

CafeDrinking & Nightlife

Shopping

Entertainment

Eating

CampingSleeping

BuddhistCastleChristianHinduIslamicJewishMonumentMuseum/GalleryRuinWinery/VineyardZooOther Sight

BeachCanoeing/KayakingSkiingSurfingSwimming/PoolWalkingWindsurfingOther Sports &Activities

Diving/Snorkelling

Tourist InformationPost Office

Border Crossing

Bus

CyclingFerry

Muni Buses &Streetcars

Monorail

Parking

TaxiS-Bahn

BART

TramTube StationU-BahnOther Transport

Cable Car

Airport

Walking TourDetour

Walking Tour

Path

Lane

Tertiary

Freeway

Primary

Steps

Plaza/Mall

PedestrianOverpass

Secondary

Unsealed Road

Tunnel

Tollway

Disputed

Regional/Suburb

Marine Park

Cliff

Wall

State/Province

InternationalCemetery(Christian)Cemetery (Other)Park/ForestSportsgroundSight (Building)Top Sight(Building)

Beach/Desert

Intermittent RiverSwamp/MangroveReefCanalWaterDry/Salt/Intermittent LakeGlacier

River/Creek

LighthouseLookoutMountain/VolcanoOasisParkPassPicnic AreaWaterfall

Hut/Shelter

Map Legend

AreasBoundaries

Hydrography

Geographic

Transport

Information

Drinking & Nightlife

Shopping

Entertainment

Eating

Sleeping

Sports & ActivitiesSights Routes

San Francisco Maps

314

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æ Top Sights (p56) Grandeho's Kamekyo II .................. (see 20)Fisherman's Wharf .................................... B1 15 In-N-Out Burger ........................................B2

æ Sights (p62) û Drinking & Nightlife (p70)1 Aquarium of the Bay .................................D2 16 Buena Vista Cafe.......................................A32 Beniamino Bufano's St Francis Statue....C23 Ghirardelli Square .....................................A3 ý Entertainment (p70)4 Musée Mécanique .....................................C2 17 Lou's Pier 47..............................................B25 Pier 39 ........................................................D16 San Francisco Carousel............................D1 þ Shopping (p71)7 San Francisco Maritime National 18 elizabethW.................................................A3

Historical Park ........................................A28 SS Jeremiah O'Brien................................. B1 Ø Sports & Activities (p72)9 USS Pampanito ......................................... B1 19 Adventure Cat ...........................................D2

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10 Boudin Bakery ...........................................C211 Eagle Café ..................................................D2 ÿ Sleeping (p241)12 Forbes Island ............................................. C1 22 Argonaut Hotel..........................................A213 Gary Danko ................................................A3 23 Tuscan Inn .................................................C314 Ghirardelli Ice Cream ................................A3 24 Wharf Inn ...................................................C2

FISHERMAN

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û Drinking & Nightlife (p91)æ Sights (p78) 14 Barrique ......................................................A1

1 AP Hotaling Warehouse............................A2 15 Bix...............................................................A22 Sue Bierman Park .....................................C2 16 Taverna Aventine...................................... A23 Sun Terrace ...............................................B34 Transamerica Pyramid & Redwood ý Entertainment (p92)

Park .........................................................A3 17 Embarcadero Center Cinema..................B318 Punch Line.................................................B2

ú Eating (p84) 19 SF Jazz.......................................................C35 Barbacco....................................................C36 Bocadillos...................................................A2 þ Shopping (p96)7 Boulette's Larder.......................................D2 20 Eden & Eden ..............................................A28 Cotogna......................................................A2 21 Embarcadero Center ................................C3

Hog Island Oyster Company .............(see 7) Ferry Plaza Wine Merchant............... (see 7)Il Cane Rosso ......................................(see 7) 22 Japonesque ...............................................A2

9 Kokkari .......................................................B2 Recchiuti Chocolates.........................(see 7)10 La Mar Cebicheria .....................................D2 Sur la Table......................................... (see 7)

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æ Sights (p62)1 Church of St Mary the Virgin......................C52 Fort Mason Center ......................................D23 Octagon House............................................ E54 San Francisco National Maritime

Museum .................................................... F25 Vedanta Society ..........................................D56 Wave Organ ................................................. B1

ú Eating (p68)7 A16................................................................B48 Barney's Burgers.........................................C49 Betelnut........................................................D5

10 Blue Barn Gourmet .....................................C411 Greens ..........................................................D212 Judy's Cafe...................................................B413 Kara's Cupcakes..........................................B414 La Boulange .................................................D515 Mamacita .....................................................B416 Real Food .....................................................C517 Rose's Café ..................................................C5

û Drinking & Nightlife (p70)18 Brazen Head ................................................D519 Bus Stop....................................................... E520 California Wine Merchant ...........................C421 MatrixFillmore .............................................C5

ý Entertainment (p70)BATS Improv ......................................(see 22)

22 Magic Theatre.............................................. E2

þ Shopping (p71)23 ATYS.............................................................D524 Chloe Rose................................................... E525 Marmalade SF..............................................D526 Mingle........................................................... E527 My Roommate's Closet...............................C528 Past Perfect .................................................C529 PlumpJack Wines ........................................C530 San Francisco Surf Company.....................C531 Uko................................................................D5

Ø Sports & Activities (p72)32 Oceanic Society Expeditions boat

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ÿ Sleeping (p241)33 Coventry Motor Inn .....................................D434 HI San Francisco Fisherman's Wharf ........ E235 Hotel del Sol.................................................D436 Marina Inn .................................................... E437 Marina Motel................................................A5

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22 Lush Lounge...............................................A1æ Sights (p82) 23 Rickshaw Stop...........................................A6

1 City Hall ......................................................B5 24 Rye .............................................................C22 Glide Memorial United Methodist 25 Whiskey Thieves .......................................B2

Church.....................................................D23 Luggage Store Gallery ............................. D4 ý Entertainment (p92)4 San Francisco Main Library......................C5 26 Café Royale................................................C25 SF Arts Commission Gallery ....................A5 27 City Arts & Lectures.................................. A56 United Nations Plaza.................................C4 28 Great American Music Hall ......................B3

29 Hemlock Tavern........................................ A2ú Eating (p88) 30 Mitchell Brothers O'Farrell Theater.........B3

7 Brenda's French Soul Food ......................B3 31 New Conservatory Theater......................B68 Dottie's True Blue Café.............................D2 San Francisco Ballet ........................(see 32)9 Farm:Table................................................. C1 32 San Francisco Opera ................................A5

10 Heart of the City Farmers Market............C5 33 San Francisco Symphony ........................A511 Millennium..................................................C212 Pagolac.......................................................B3 þ Shopping (p97)13 Sai Jai Thai .................................................B3 34 Kayo Books................................................C214 Saigon Sandwich Shop .............................B3 35 Magazine ...................................................B215 Shalimar.....................................................D216 Tommy's Joynt..........................................A2 ÿ Sleeping (p241)

36 HI San Francisco City Center...................B3û Drinking & Nightlife (p91) 37 Hotel Vertigo ..............................................C1

17 222 Hyde....................................................C3 38 Phoenix Hotel ............................................B318 Aunt Charlie's ............................................D3 39 Steinhart Hotel & Apartments..................C119 Deco Lounge..............................................B4

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6 Columbus Tower ................. D5 47 101 Music.............................. C37 Commercial Street..............D6 48 Al's Attire..............................D48 Dragon's Gate...................... D7 49 Aria ....................................... C39 Filbert St Steps.....................E2 50 Chinatown Kite

10 Good Luck Parking Shop .................................. D6Garage............................... C4 51 City Lights

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56 Lola of North Beach ............ C3ú Eating (p108) 57 Red Blossom Tea

19 Brioche Bakery ....................D4 Company........................... D520 Café Jacqueline ................... C3 58 SF Rock Posters &21 Cinecittá............................... B3 Collectibles ....................... B222 City View .............................. E623 Coi..........................................E4 ÿ Sleeping (p246)24 Golden Star .......................... D5 59 Grant Plaza .......................... D725 House of Nanking ................ D5 60 Hotel Bohème...................... C326 Jai Yun .................................. D5 61 Pacific Tradewinds27 Liguria Bakery...................... C2 Hostel ................................ E628 Molinari................................. C4 62 San Remo Hotel....................A129 Naked Lunch........................D4 63 SWHotel .............................. C430 Ristorante Ideale ................. C4 64 Washington Square31 Tony's Coal-fired Inn ...................................... C2

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æ Sights (p119)1 Cable Car Museum...................................... E52 Diego Rivera Gallery.................................... C13 Grace Cathedral .......................................... E64 Ina Coolbrith Park........................................ E35 Jack Kerouac's Love

Shack.........................................................B36 Macondray Lane..........................................D37 Masonic Auditorium.................................... E68 Pacific-Union Club....................................... E69 Sterling Park ................................................B2

ú Eating (p123)10 Acquerello....................................................B611 Cheese Plus .................................................B412 Frascati.........................................................C313 Swan Oyster Depot .....................................B614 Swensen's ....................................................C315 Za..................................................................C3

û Drinking & Nightlife (p125)Amélie.................................................. (see 16)

16 Bigfoot Lodge ..............................................B517 Cinch ............................................................B518 Tonga Room ................................................ F619 Top of the Mark ........................................... F6

ý Entertainment (p125)20 Encore Karaoke

Lounge.......................................................B621 Lumiere Theater..........................................B622 Red Devil Lounge.........................................B6

þ Shopping (p128)23 City Discount ...............................................B624 Cris ...............................................................B525 Eco Citizen ...................................................B4

Hide & Seek Antiques ........................ (see 12)26 Picnic ............................................................B527 Studio ...........................................................B528 Velvet da Vinci .............................................B4

ÿ Sleeping (p247)29 Fairmont San

Francisco................................................... F630 Huntington Hotel ......................................... E631 Mark Hopkins

Intercontinental ........................................ F632 Nob Hill Hotel...............................................C733 Nob Hill Inn................................................... E6

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‚To Tataki(400ft)

æ Sights (p118) Butterfly Bar ........(see 35) Jonathan Adler ....(see 22)1 Audium..........................D2 13 Dosa...............................B3 26 Katsura Garden.............B32 Cottage Row ................. B3 14 Harry's Bar .................... B2 27 Kinokuniya Books3 Ikenobo Ikebana & Stationery ...............B3

Society........................C3 ý Entertainment (p125) 28 Kohshi............................C34 Japan Center ................ C3 15 Boom Boom Room....... B3 29 Marc by Marc5 Konko Temple............... C2 16 Clay Theater.................. B2 Jacobs ........................B2

Peace Pagoda........ (see 4) 17 Fillmore 30 Nest ................................B16 Ruth Asawa Auditorium .................B4 31 New People ...................C3

Fountains ................... C3 18 Queen of Sheba ............B4 32 Soko Hardware .............C319 Rasella's ........................B4 33 Zinc Details ...................B2

ú Eating (p122) 20 Sundance Kabuki7 Benkyodo ...................... C3 Cinema .......................B3 Ø Sports & Activities (p129)8 Bun Mee ........................ B2 Viz Cinema ........... (see 31) 34 Kabuki Springs &

Grove .................... (see 14) 21 Yoshi's ...........................B4 Spa..............................B39 Nijiya Supermarket ...... C3

10 Out the Door ................. B2 þ Shopping (p126) ÿ Sleeping (p247)11 Pizzeria Delfina............. B2 22 Benefit ...........................B2 35 Hotel Majestic ...............D2

Saporro-Ya...........(see 26) 23 Clary Sage 36 Hotel Tomo ...................C3Sophie's Crepes...(see 26) Organics ......................B1 37 Kabuki Hotel..................C3

Crossroads...........(see 33) 38 Queen Anne Hotel.........D2û Drinking & Nightlife (p124) 24 Her ................................. B2

12 1300 on Fillmore........... B4 25 Ichiban Kan ...................C3

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CIVICCENTER

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Hickory St

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Page St

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æ Sights (p180) 12 Pisco Latin Lounge.......B4 21 Isotope...........................C21 Hayes Valley Farm........ B2 22 Lotus Bleu ......................C12 Zen Center .................... B3 ý Entertainment (p185) 23 MAC ................................C1

13 Rebel Bar.......................C4 24 Miette.............................B2ú Eating (p183) 14 SF Lesbian Gay 25 Nancy Boy......................C1

3 Bar Jules........................ A2 Bisexual 26 Peace Industry..............A24 Chantal Guillon Transgender 27 Polanco...........................C1

Macarons ................... B2 Community 28 Reliquary ........................B15 Jardiniére .......................C1 Center.........................B4 29 Residents Apparel6 Nojo ................................C1 Gallery..........................B17 Suppenküche................ A2 þ Shopping (p187)8 Zuni Cafe ....................... C3 15 Fiddlesticks ....................B1 ÿ Sleeping (p249)

16 Flax ................................C4 30 Sleep Over Sauce .........C3û Drinking & Nightlife (p184) 17 Flight 001 ...................... B2 31 Hayes Valley Inn ............C1

9 Hôtel Biron .................... C3 18 Gangs of San 32 Parsonnage...................B410 Martuni's .......................C4 Francisco....................C311 Momi Toby's 19 Gimme Shoes ................C1

Revolution Café ......... A2 20 Green Arcade................C3

‚

To Smuggler's Cove(450ft)

HAYES VALLEY

330

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æ Top Sights (p132) 38 Harlot ......................................................... F2San Francisco Museum of Modern Art.... F3 39 Hole in the Wall..........................................C6

40 House of Shields ....................................... E2æ Sights (p139) 41 Kok Bar ......................................................C6

1 AT&T Park................................................. H5 42 Lone Star Saloon.......................................C6Baer Ridgway..................................... (see 3) 43 Powerhouse...............................................C6

2 California Historical Society Museum.....E3 44 RN74 ...........................................................F13 Cartoon Art Museum ................................E3 45 Shine ..........................................................C64 Catharine Clark Gallery.............................F3 46 Sightglass Coffee......................................D55 Children's Creativity Museum..................E3 47 Stud............................................................D66 Contemporary Jewish Museum...............E3 48 Temple ....................................................... F27 Crown Point Press..................................... F3 49 Terroir Natural Wine Merchant................D58 Electric Works............................................C5 50 Waterbar....................................................H29 Federal Building.........................................C5 51 Zeitgeist ..................................................... A7

10 Jack London's Birthplace ........................ G411 Museum of Craft & Folk Art......................E3 ý Entertainment (p156)12 Museum of the African Diaspora .............E3 52 AMC Loews Metreon 16............................ E313 South Park ................................................ G4 53 AsiaSF ........................................................C614 WPAMurals at Rincon Annex Post 54 Blow Buddies............................................. E5

Office .......................................................G1 55 Brainwash..................................................D5Yerba Buena Centre for the Arts.....(see 15) 56 Hotel Utah Saloon..................................... F4

15 Yerba Buena Gardens...............................E3 57 Mezzanine..................................................D458 Slim's..........................................................C7

ú Eating (p146)16 Benu ...........................................................F3 þ Shopping (p160)17 Boulevard...................................................G1 59 Branch........................................................D618 Butler & the Chef...................................... G4 60 Gama-Go....................................................D6

Citizen's Band.................................. (see 32) 61 General Bead.............................................C519 Heaven's Dog.............................................C5 62 Goodwill 'As Is' Shop.................................B620 Juhu Beach Club........................................C6 63 Isda & Co Outlet ........................................G421 Rainbow Grocery.......................................C7 64 Jeremy's ....................................................G422 Sentinel ......................................................E2 65 Madame S &Mr S Leather .......................D623 Split Pea Seduction.................................. D4 66 San Francisco Flower Mart ...................... E624 Tropisueño.................................................E3 67 SFMOMAMuseum Store.......................... E325 Tu Lan........................................................ D426 Zero Zero ...................................................E4 Ø Sports & Activities (p161)

68 City Kayak..................................................H4û Drinking & Nightlife (p150) 69 Embarcadero YMCA................................. G1

27 1015 Folsom...............................................D5 Spinnaker Sailing ............................ (see 68)28 111 Minna .................................................... F2 70 Yerba Buena Ice Skating & Bowling ........ F329 83 Proof...................................................... F2

Bar Agricole ..................................... (see 36) ÿ Sleeping (p248)30 Bloodhound .............................................. D6 71 Americania Hotel ......................................D531 Butter .........................................................C7 72 Best Western Carriage Inn.......................D532 Cat Club..................................................... D6 73 Good Hotel.................................................C533 City Beer Store & Tasting Room..............D5 74 Harbor Court Hotel ................................... G134 Club Six ..................................................... D4 75 Hotel Vitale ................................................ G135 Dada ........................................................... F2 76 Mosser Hotel ............................................. E336 DNA Lounge...............................................C7 77 St Regis Hotel............................................ E337 EndUp.........................................................E5 78 WHotel ...................................................... F3

SOM

A

333

THE MISSION & POTRERO HILL Map on p334

æ Top Sights (p132) 35 Old Jerusalem...............B6 þ Shopping (p158)24th St...........................D5 36 Pancho Villa .................. B2 73 Accident & Artifact ........B1Valencia St .................... B3 Range....................(see 87) 74 Adobe Books &

37 Tartine ...........................A3 Backroomæ Sights (p134) 38 Udupi Palace.................B4 Gallery.........................A2

1 826 Valencia ................. B3 75 Aquarius Records.........B42 Ampersand û Drinking & Nightlife (p148) 76 Black & Blue

International 39 Atlas Cafe......................D3 Tattoo .........................A2Arts .............................H3 40 Beretta ..........................B4 77 Candystore

3 Balmy Alley ................... C5 41 Borderlands ..................B3 Collective....................A24 California College 42 Doc's Clock ...................B4 78 Community Thrift .........B2

of the Arts ................... F1 43 El Rio..............................B6 79 Dema .............................B45 Clarion Alley.................. B2 44 Elixir ...............................B2 80 Fabric8 ..........................B46 Creativity Explored....... A2 45 Heart..............................B5 81 Good Vibrations............B27 Eleanor Harwood 46 Homestead ...................C3 82 Gravel & Gold ................B4

Gallery ........................D5 47 Latin American 83 Mission8 Galería de la Raza......... D5 Club.............................B4 Skateboards...............C59 Guerrero Gallery...........D3 48 Lexington Club.............. B3 84 Mission Statement .......B3

10 Incline Gallery ............... B3 49 Medjool Sky 85 Needles & Pens.............A211 Mission Dolores ............ A2 Terrace .......................B4 86 NooWorks ......................B112 Mission Dolores 50 Mighty.............................E1 87 Paxton Gate ..................B3

Park ............................ A3 51 Phone Booth .................C4 88 Room 4 ..........................B313 Ratio 3 ............................B1 52 Ritual Coffee 89 SCRAP............................F714 Root Division................. C2 Roasters .....................B4 90 SunheeMoon................A215 Southern Exposure ......D3 53 Thee Parkside ................F2 91 Voyager ..........................B116 Women's Building......... B3 54 Truck ..............................C1

Ø Sports & Activities (p161)ú Eating (p142) ý Entertainment (p154) 92 18 Reasons ....................A3

17 Bi-Rite............................ A3 55 Amnesia ........................B3 93 Bakar Fitness &18 Bi-Rite Creamery.......... A3 56 Bottom of the Hill ..........F2 Recreation19 Commonwealth ............ B3 57 Brava Theater ...............D5 Center......................... G120 Corner ........................... B2 58 Cafe Cocomo ................G2 94 Metronome Dance21 Delfina ........................... A3 59 Dance Mission .............. B5 Collective.................... E222 Duc Loi........................... B3 60 Elbo Room.....................B3 95 Mission Cultural23 Foreign Cinema ............ B4 61 Intersection for Center for24 Humphry the Arts....................... B2 Latino Arts..................B5

Slocombe ...................D5 62 Jewish Theater .............D2 96 Potrero del Sol/La25 Ichi Sushi....................... B7 63 Little Baobab.................B3 Raza26 La Taqueria ................... B5 64 Make-Out Room ...........B4 Skatepark ................... E527 Locanda......................... B2 65 Marsh.............................B4 97 San Francisco28 Maverick........................ B2 66 Oberlin Dance Center for the29 Mission Beach Collective....................C2 Book............................ E2

Cafe .............................A1 67 Red Poppy Art 98 Yoga Tree ......................B530 Mission Chinese ........... B3 House .........................C431 Mission Pie .................... B5 68 Roccapulco ÿ Sleeping (p249)32 Mitchell's Ice Supper Club ...............B6 99 Inn San Francisco .........C3

Cream......................... B7 69 Roxie Cinema................ B233 Mr & Mrs 70 Savanna Jazz ................ B5

Miscellaneous ............H4 71 SUB-Mission ................. B234 Mr Pollo ......................... B5 72 Verdi Club......................D2

THE MISSIO

N & POTRERO

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29th St

Clipper St

Duncan St

Day St

27th St

Hill St

26th St

28th St

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Division St

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1 Corona Heights Park.... A2 20 Badlands .......................B4 þ Shopping (p172)2 GLBT History Museum.B4 21 Blackbird ........................D1 38 Books Inc.......................C23 Harvey Milk Plaza ......... B3 22 Cafe ...............................B3 39 Cliff's Variety.................B34 Jane Warner Plaza........ B3 23 Cafe Flore......................C2 40 De La Sole .....................B45 Nobby Clarke Mansion. A4 24 Churchill .........................D1 41 Human Rights

25 Jumpin' Java ..................C1 Campaign Actionú Eating (p166) 26 Lookout ......................... B2 Center & Store...........B4

6 Anchor Oyster Bar........ B4 27 Midnight Sun.................B4 42 Kenneth Wingard..........B37 Burgermeister ...............D1 28 Mix ................................. B4 43 Photoworks................... D18 Casa Mexicana...............D1 29 Moby Dick .....................B4 44 Sui Generis ....................B39 Catch ............................. B3 30 Pilsner Inn ......................D1 45 Under One Roof ............B4

10 Chilango .........................D1 31 QBar...............................B3 46 Unionmade....................C311 Chow...............................D1 32 Samovar Tea Lounge...C3 47 Worn Out West .............B412 Frances..........................C3 33 Toad Hall .......................B413 L'Ardoise ........................C1 34 Trigger ...........................B2 ÿ Sleeping (p249)14 La Méditerranée ........... B2 35 Twin Peaks Tavern ....... B3 48 24 Henry.........................C115 Mollie Stone's 49 Beck's Motor Lodge .....C2

Markets ...................... B4 ý Entertainment (p172) 50 Inn on Castro.................B316 Starbelly ........................ C2 36 Café du 51 Parker Guest House .....D317 Sushi Time .................... C2 Nord/Swedish 52 Willows Inn .................... D118 Taqueria Zapata ........... B4 American Hall..............C1

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æ Top Sights (p177) 22 Independent .............................................. F3Alamo Square ........................................... G3

þ Shopping (p186)æ Sights (p177) 23 Amoeba Music...........................................A6

1 Buena Vista Park .......................................E6 24 Bound Together Anarchist Book2 Grateful Dead House.................................C6 Collective ................................................D5

25 Braindrops.................................................D5ú Eating (p180) 26 Goorin Brothers Hats................................C5

3 Axum Cafe..................................................G5 27 Loved to Death ..........................................B64 Bar Crudo...................................................E3 28 Loyal Army Clothing .................................B55 Cole Valley Cafe.........................................B6 29 Piedmont Boutique...................................C56 Escape from New York Pizza....................A6 30 Prairie Collective ....................................... F57 Little Chihuahua ........................................ F4 31 Revolver .....................................................H58 Magnolia Brewpub ....................................C5 32 SFO Snowboarding & FTC9 Ragazza......................................................F4 Skateboarding........................................B5

10 Rosamunde Sausage Grill ........................G5 33 Upper Playground.....................................H511 Three Twins Ice Cream............................ H5 34 Wasteland..................................................B512 Ziryab .........................................................F3 35 Xapno.........................................................G5

û Drinking & Nightlife (p183) Ø Sports & Activities (p189)13 Alembic ......................................................B5 36 Aqua Surf Shop.........................................B514 Aub Zam Zam ............................................B6 37 Avenue Cyclery .........................................A615 Coffee to the People..................................C5 38 Koret Pool ..................................................A316 Madrone.....................................................F417 Noc Noc..................................................... H5 ÿ Sleeping (p249)18 Toronado................................................... H5 39 Chateau Tivoli............................................G219 Uva Enoteca.............................................. G4 40 Grove Inn ...................................................H320 Vinyl Wine Bar............................................ F4 41 Metro Hotel................................................ F4

42 Red Victorian Bed, Breakfast & Art.........B6ý Entertainment (p185) 43 Stanyan Park Hotel...................................A6

21 Booksmith..................................................B5

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æ Top Sights (p192) 28 Thanh Long................................................B6California Academy of Sciences ............. G4 29 Ton Kiang Restaurant............................... E2Conservatory of Flowers.......................... H4 30 Underdog................................................... F5Golden Gate Park ......................................E4 31 Wing Lee ....................................................G2Japanese Tea Garden ...............................F4 32 Yum Yum Fish ........................................... E5MH de Young Museum............................. G4San Francisco Botanical Garden.............. F5 û Drinking & Nightlife (p201)Stow Lake...................................................F4 540 Club ........................................... (see 31)

33 Beach Chalet .............................................A4æ Sights (p195) 34 Bitter End...................................................G2

1 AIDS Memorial Grove............................... H4 35 Hollow ........................................................ F52 Bison Paddock...........................................C4 36 Social..........................................................G53 Camera Obscura .......................................A3 37 Trad'r Sam's ..............................................D24 Children's Playground.............................. H4 38 Trouble Coffee...........................................B6

Cliff House.......................................... (see 3)5 Columbarium............................................ H3 ý Entertainment (p202)6 Dahlia Garden ........................................... H4 39 Balboa Theater..........................................C37 Legion of Honor .........................................B2 40 Plough & the Stars ....................................H28 Lincoln Park ............................................... B19 McLaren Lodge......................................... H4 þ Shopping (p203)

10 Ocean Beach..............................................A5 General Store ...................................(see 38)11 Shakespeare Garden ............................... G4 41 Green Apple Books ...................................G212 Sutro Baths................................................A2 42 Mollusk.......................................................B513 Windmills....................................................A4 Park Life........................................... (see 40)

Seedstore ......................................... (see 18)ú Eating (p198) 43 Wishbone...................................................G5

14 Aziza ...........................................................E215 B Star Bar.................................................. H2 Ø Sports & Activities (p204)16 Burma Superstar.......................................G2 44 Circus Center Trapeze..............................H517 First Korean Market ..................................G2 45 Flycasting Club..........................................C418 Genki...........................................................G2 46 Golden Gate Municipal Golf Course ........B419 Halu ............................................................G2 47 Golden Gate Park Bike & Skate ...............G320 House of Bagels......................................... F2 48 Lawn Bowling Club....................................H421 Kabuto........................................................ F2 49 Lincoln Park Golf Course..........................C222 Namu......................................................... G3 50 Lindy in the Park .......................................G423 Nanking Road Bistro .................................G5 51 San Francisco Disc Golf............................D4

Outerlands ....................................... (see 38) 52 San Francisco Model Yacht Club.............C424 PPQ Dungeness Island..............................E2 53 Wheel Fun Rentals .................................... F425 San Tung ....................................................G526 Spices.........................................................G2 ÿ Sleeping (p250)27 Sunrise Deli ................................................E5 54 Seal Rock Inn.............................................A3

GOLDEN

GATE PARK & THE AVENUES

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THERICHMOND

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GOLDEN

GATE PARK & THE AVENUES

Alison Bing Coordinating Author: North Beach & Chinatown, The Mission, SoMa & Potrero Hill, The Haight & Hayes Valley, and Golden Gate Park & the Avenues Over 15 years in San Francisco, Alison has done everything you’re supposed to do in the city and many things you’re not, including falling in love on the 7 Haight bus and gorging on Mission burritos before Berlioz symphonies. Alison holds degrees in art history and international diplomacy – respectable

diplomatic credentials she regularly undermines with opinionated culture commentary for radio, newspapers, foodie magazines and books, including Lonely Planet’s California, USA, Coastal California, California Trips, San Francisco and San Francisco Encounter guides. Alison also wrote the Planning, Understand and Survival Guide chapters.

John A Vlahides The Marina, Fisherman’s Wharf & the Piers, Downtown & Civic Center, The Hills & Japantown, and The Castro & Noe Valley John A Vlahides co-hosts the TV series Lonely Planet: Roads Less Travelled, screening on National Geo-graphic Channels International. John studied cooking in Paris, with the same chefs who trained Julia Child, and he’s a former luxury-hotel concierge and member of Les Clefs d’Or, the international union of the world’s elite concierges.

He lives in San Francisco, where he sings tenor with the San Francisco Symphony, and spends free time skiing the Sierra Nevada. For more, see www.johnvlahides.com and twitter.com/johnvlahides. John also wrote the Sleeping and Day Trips chapters.

Read more about John at:lonelyplanet.com/members/johnvlahides

Our Writers

Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reason-able care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxi-mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.

Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty LtdABN 36 005 607 9838th edition – Feb 2012ISBN 978 1 74179 923 1© Lonely Planet 2012 Photographs © as indicated 201210 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in ChinaAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

Our StoryA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their fi rst travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.

Today, Lonely Planet has offi ces in Melbourne, London and Oakland, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

Day One North Beach (p 98 )

M�Parrots squawk encouragement as you climb Greenwich Street stairs

to Coit Tower for WPA murals and 360-degree panoramas. Amble downhill through Washington Square and down Columbus past Columbus Tower, and take a breather in the redwood grove beneath the Trans-america Pyramid.

Chinatown (p 98 )

R Compare traditional and contempo-rary, Chinese and Chinese American

artists at Chinese Culture Center, and cross the pedestrian bridge to watch fi erce chess matches in progress at Portsmouth Square. Wander through temple-lined Wa-verly Place and notorious Ross Alley to fi nd your fortune at Golden Gate Fortune Cookie Company. Past the pagoda-topped tea and trinket shops of Grant Ave and down poetry-paved Jack Kerouac Alley is City Lights bookstore, the home of Beat poetry. Celebrate free spirits and free speech here and at the Beat Museum across the street.

North Beach (p 98 )

N Prepare yourself for insane hats and razor-sharp wit at Beach Blanket

Babylon, SF’s most over-the-top drag satire (and that’s saying something). Recap over nightcaps fi t for Victorian swells and mad-ams at Comstock Saloon.

Lunch Hail dim sum carts for dump-lings at City View (p 109 ).

Dinner Reserve ahead for North Beach’s best pasta at Cotogna (p 84 ).

Day Two Golden Gate Park (p 190 )

M Hop the Judah to Stanyan, then walk into the park to see carnivorous

plants enjoying their insect breakfasts at Conservatory of Flowers and dahlias wet with dew in the Dahlia Garden. Fol-low Andy Goldworthy’s artful sidewalk fault lines to fi nd faultless Oceanic masks and tower-top views at the MH de Young Museum, then take a walk on the wild side in the rainforest dome of the California Academy of Sciences. Enjoy a moment of Zen with green tea at the Japanese Tea Garden, and bliss out in the secret redwood grove at the San Francisco Botanical Garden.

The Sunset (p 190 )

R Find driftwood jewelry and DIY ar-chitecture books at General Store,

and artist-designed hoodies and custom surfboards at Mollusk. Beachcomb Ocean Beach up to the Beach Chalet to glimpse 1930s WPA murals celebrating Golden Gate Park, and amber sunsets glimpsed through a pint of the house-brewed ale.

Japantown (p 115 )

N Psychedelic posters and top acts make for rock-legendary nights at the Fill-

more, or you could get in the swing with the jazz greats performing nightly at Yoshi’s.

Lunch Surfers hit Outerlands (p 201 ) for grilled cheese and organic soup.

Dinner Inspired organic Cal-Moroccan feasts satisfy cravings at Aziza (p 198 ).

Top Itineraries

16

Day Three SoMa (p 130 )

M Fuel up with an artful latte at the cafe at the rooftop sculpture garden

of SFMOMA, then plot your descent through three fl oors of boundary-pushing, horizon-expanding art. Explore SF’s multi-culti roots at the Museum of the African Diaspora and Contemporary Jewish Museum, then fi nd crafty new ideas at the Museum of Craft & Folk Art.

The Mission (p 130 )

R Walk 24th St past mural-covered bodegas to Balmy Alley, where

the Mission muralist movement began in the 1970s. Stop for a ‘secret breakfast’ (bourbon and cornfl ake) ice cream sundae at Humphry Slocombe, then head up Valencia to another foodie favorite, Ritual Coff ee Roasters. Pause for pirate supplies and Fish Theater at 826 Valencia, and duck into Clarion Alley to see the Mis-sion’s ongoing outdoor art show. See San Francisco’s fi rst building, Spanish adobe Mission Dolores, and visit the memorial to native Ohlone who built it.

The Castro (p 164 )

N Sing along to show tunes pounded out on the Mighty Wurlitzer organ

before shows at deco-fabulous Castro Theatre. Party boys cruise over to 440 Castro afterwards, while mixed straight/gay/male/female crowds clink glasses at Blackbird.

Lunch La Taqueria makes the defi ni-tive Mission burrito (p 142 ).

Dinner Early walk-ins may score sensa-tional small plates at Frances (p 166 ).

Day Four Russian Hill (p 115 )

M Grab a leather strap on the Powell-Hyde cable car and hold on: you’re

in for hills and thrills. Hop off at Vallejo to follow stairway walks and side streets to four literary locations: hilltop Ina Cool-brith Park, named after San Francisco’s over-the-top romantic poet; shady Macon-dray Lane, the backdrop for Armistead Maupin’s Tales of the City; Russell St, where Jack Kerouac wrote On the Road in an attic; and Sterling Park, where sweep-ing bay views inspired SF’s original ‘King of Bohemia.’

The Piers (p 52 )

R Cover the waterfront, beginning with newly restored underwater

murals and mosaics at Aquatic Park Bathhouse. You can save the world from Space Invaders at Musée Mécanique, or enter underwater stealth mode inside a real WWII submarine: USS Pampanito. Watch sea lions cavort at Pier 39, then fol-low your rumbling stomach to the Ferry Building.

Alcatraz (p 52 )

N To end the evening with shivers, don’t miss the boat for the night tour

of Alcatraz. Once you return to freedom, hop on the vintage F-Market line street-car to celebrate your great San Francisco escape with bubbly at Waterbar.

Lunch Za (p 124 ) features cornmeal-crusted pizza and Anchor Steam beer.

Dinner Try the local oysters and Dunge-ness crab at the Ferry Building (p 86 ).

PLAN YO

UR TRIP TOP

ITIN

ERA

RIES

17

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