Saburu | GaPortfolio

Kerry Wong

this collection explores and fuses relationships between fashion media, menswear, ageing and sustain-ability. the typical portrayal of men in fashion media is a narrow and limited one. specific age, ethnicity and body type ideals amalgamate into an endless number of young, scrawny, white male models who brood, walk and pose for high fashion. appealing to diverse demographics could attract new markets and encourage brand loyalty.

thus, project beginnings were primarily target-market driven. the decision to design a collection for older gentlemen was initially out of novelty. however, since the development of the collection concep-tually and contextually, this notion has moved further, into aspects of ‘changing masculinities’, mar-ginalisation of new social movements, ageing and appearances, genealogy and sustainability. this has culminated into a menswear collection targeted at older men in their 50’s – 60’s. the logic for this is the likelihood that an older man will be more financially viable than someone half his age and possess con-cern for the world’s deteriorating environment.

by designing a contemporary, high quality collection that is intended to be passed down to following generations, the aim is to extend the garment’s lifespan and reduce the turnover rate of the fast fashion industry. this will be achieved by featuring variable sizing systems which allow the garments to be worn by several sized generations, and thus, imbed invaluable memories in the clothing. it was also important to design and promote a collection that conveyed the same level of sophistication and style as typical fashion media in order to illustrate that their ‘ideal’ visual representation of a man does not have to be so narrowly defined in order to sell clothes.

a laser cut moth lace has been designed and cut into some garments to humorously mimic the target market’s delicate and fragile qualities.

a menswear collection for older gentleman where samurai’s and moths guide silhoutte, fabrics and colour palette.

target market: creative, edgy, old gentleman aged 50-60 years, with interests in art, fashion, furniture and family. resides in an urban environment with a relaxed outlook on life.

it is important to start looking after our planet, we can start by consuming less waste and investing in quality for our following generations....

...with style

fragile, delicate gentleman and moth eaten holey garments.

traditional qualities of lace are gendered and associated with older women. reinterpreting lace for a contemporary older menswear market illustrated a perfect complement to my concept.

the decision to incorporate a skirt into my collection was initially partly trend driven, and partly novel.

supra skytops provided the perfect language to translate my concept into garments.

japanese dress from the meiji period inspired subtly sculptural garments.

some initial drawings

design developments

lineup

oversized knit top allows for smallers sizes to wear in a draped style.

darted sleeve crown allows for expan-sion of the shoulder breadth by flipping the crown into the shoulder or out like a regular sleeve

box pleat down centre back flatters several waist and hip sizes

pleats that feature grown on waistband tabs allow for a waist-band to thread through and enable the pleats to slide across and fit anyone

moth tattoo top, hakama trouser and battle jacket

lookbook & technical drawings

removal of sleeve allows for cape to drape over smaller shoulders

side adjusters allow waist-band to tighten for smaller sizes

elasticised waistband allows a flexible fit

helmet top, flight cardigan, combat shorts and luna leggings

pleats in shoulder can be released to increase should width

generous box pleat allows garment to fit almost any-one. buckles adjust the fit

box pleat down centre back flatters several waist and hip sizes

darted sleeve crown allows for expansion of the shoulder breadth by flipping the crown into the shoulder or out like a regular sleeve

elasticised waistband allows a flexible fit

moth tattoo tee, temple coat, cocoon kilt and luna leggings

oversized knit top allows for smallers sizes to wear in a draped style.

gusset in armhole allows for flexibility of shoulder breadths

vent in centre back allows for flexibility of chest sizes

side adjusters allow waist-band to tighten on smaller sizes

slashed shirt and combat trousers

editorial

Arigatou

Photographer: Ashley Church

Models: David Naulls

Nick Van Halderen

Set Assistants:Briedi McCrostie

Jo Goldstein

Shoe Connection