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9 771837 600008 ISSN 1837-6002 14 $9.95 (Aust & NZ) GST inclusive French finery Champagne and Châteaux Puerto Rico a Caribbean delight Royal Wraith Rolls-Royce’s latest African River Safari Zambezi Queen The lap of luxury Laucala Island Arabia awaits Journey through Jordan Travel l Leisure l Wellbeing l Investments l Style l Food & Wine

S l t & l vol14 2014

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Page 1: S l t & l vol14 2014

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$9.9

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French finery Champagne and Châteaux

Puerto Rico a Caribbean delight

Royal Wraith Rolls-Royce’s latest

African River Safari Zambezi Queen

The lap of luxury Laucala Island

Arabia awaits Journey through Jordan

Travel l Leisure l Wellbeing l Investments l Style l Food & Wine

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BMW TO THE POWER OF TWO.

THE ALL NEW BMW 2 SERIES COUPÉ HAS ARRIVED.

Introducing the all new BMW 2 Series Coupé. A pure manifestation of BMW distilled to its purest form, the BMW 2 Series Coupé is the epitome of the Ultimate Driving Machine. It is performance times performance, dynamics times dynamics, design times design. It is BMW to the power of Two. There is only one way to experience its verve, passion and dynamism. Visit your preferred BMW dealer to arrange a test drive or SMS "2 Coupé" to 133 BMW to request a brochure today.

The all newBMW 2 Series Coupé

133 BMWbmw.com.au

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BMW TO THE POWER OF TWO.

THE ALL NEW BMW 2 SERIES COUPÉ HAS ARRIVED.

Introducing the all new BMW 2 Series Coupé. A pure manifestation of BMW distilled to its purest form, the BMW 2 Series Coupé is the epitome of the Ultimate Driving Machine. It is performance times performance, dynamics times dynamics, design times design. It is BMW to the power of Two. There is only one way to experience its verve, passion and dynamism. Visit your preferred BMW dealer to arrange a test drive or SMS "2 Coupé" to 133 BMW to request a brochure today.

The all newBMW 2 Series Coupé

133 BMWbmw.com.au

BMW14482_297x460_Signature Luxury Travel & Lifestyle_DPS_FA.indd 1 3/03/14 10:44 AM

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For bookings and enquiries P | 1300 729 668 E | [email protected] W| australianturfclub.com.au

Sydney’s new world-class facility

The highly anticipated new Royal Randwick is now open! Located minutes from the Sydney CBD, it offers flexible state of the art event facilities ideal for gala dinners, conferences, cocktails and more.

ROYAL RANDWICK

Kensington Room

Owners’ PavilionThe Royal Randwick Grandstand

The Ballroom Exhibition Hall

Superior HospitalityGrand Pavilion, over two floors

Unrivalled trackside views

Delivering award winning events

With over 30,000m2 of flexible, indoor and outdoor space for gala dinners, conferences and large scale exhibitions and events, Rosehill Gardens really is the event planners’ venue of choice.

ROSEHILL GARDENS

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For bookings and enquiries P | 1300 729 668 E | [email protected] W| australianturfclub.com.au

Sydney’s new world-class facility

The highly anticipated new Royal Randwick is now open! Located minutes from the Sydney CBD, it offers flexible state of the art event facilities ideal for gala dinners, conferences, cocktails and more.

ROYAL RANDWICK

Kensington Room

Owners’ PavilionThe Royal Randwick Grandstand

The Ballroom Exhibition Hall

Superior HospitalityGrand Pavilion, over two floors

Unrivalled trackside views

Delivering award winning events

With over 30,000m2 of flexible, indoor and outdoor space for gala dinners, conferences and large scale exhibitions and events, Rosehill Gardens really is the event planners’ venue of choice.

ROSEHILL GARDENS

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contentsSIGNATURE CONCIERGE Provence, Himalayas, brumbies, Priority Pass, World Cup, luxury properties and tours, fly, drive and fish, Incan exhibition, Fiji, cruising, Hayley Baillie, lust haves, property reviews SIGNATURE TRAVEL Fiji’s ultimate island, Malaysian escape, exotic Jordan, Sir Richard Branson’s latest, Puerto Rican pleasures, exploring Toronto, nicely Norfolk, a Champagne celebration TRAINS, PLANES, BOATS AND AUTOMOBILES Africa’s Zambezi Queen, aboard the Star Flyer, Un-Cruising Alaska, Australia by private jet, ultimate rail journeys, Rolls-Royce Wraith, new from Bugatti, Highflyer SIGNATURE GOURMET A taste of Tuscany, the ultimate whisky guide SIGNATURE STYLE Toni Maticevski’s latest fashion masterpieces, watches for underwater and beyond, Linneys lustrous pearl jewellery

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SIGNATURE MICE Shanghai’s corporate delights, business planning and team building in the Philippines SIGNATURE WELLBEING An escape to New Zealand’s Aro Hā will invigorate body, mind and spirit SIGNATURE PEOPLE Melbourne dazzles at AIME’s welcome celebration, Australian Tourism’s night of nights

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Linneys new jewellery collection inspired by Cote d’Azur

linneys.comPerth Sydney Broome

Exquisite jewellery handcrafted in Australia, using precious Western Australian gold, rare Argyle pink diamonds from the

Western Australian mine and Australian South Sea pearls.

Linneys ���������������� 、��������� ����������������������������。

You are invited to visit one of our showrooms to view our collection.

International Style, Uniquely Australian

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It is with great pleasure that I welcome all our readers to the autumn edition of Signature Luxury Travel & Lifestyle magazine, an edition that takes readers on magnificent journeys to all corners of the globe visiting exotic islands, beautiful châteaux, exclusive private islands, the heart of Africa, ancient Jordan and tall ship cruising in the Mediterranean. We also indulge in some incredible dining experiences, look at the latest in glamorous high-end fashion and design, and take a ride in the ultimate accoutrement: the new Rolls-Royce Wraith.

In Jordan we visit the ‘crown jewel’ of the country — the 2000-year-old lost city of Petra — a revered collection of ancient tombs, carvings and statues. We travel to Tuscany to indulge in exquisite Michelin-star dining where the meals are absolute events, discover the cosmopolitan side of Toronto, and sail aboard the five-star river boat Zambezi Queen down the untamed Chobe River in Botswana.

In Switzerland we take a look at the luxurious snow-covered Chedi

Andermatt, which opened its doors last year, a property that brings true high-end comfort and style to the Swiss Alps. At the other end of the spectrum we travel to the warmth of the Pacific to Fiji’s Laucala Island, which I regard as one of the most impeccable upscale private islands I have visited; the level of service, the luxury accommodation, the cuisine and the beauty of the island combine as an unforgettable experience.

We also look at the elegant designs of Melbourne-raised designer Toni Maticevski, known for his superbly structured cuts and beautifully embossed fabrics, and delve into the world of Linneys South Sea Pearls and its shimmering collection of pearl jewellery.

I hope your enjoy our latest edition,

[email protected]

Cathy Wagstaff, Editor

LETTERFROM THEEDITOR

“TRAVELLING – IT LEAVES YOU SPEECHLESS, THEN TURNS

YOU INTO A STORYTELLER.” Ibn Battuta

ENJOY A TOUCH OF

SIGNATURE INSPIRATION WHEREVER YOU HAPPEN TO FIND

YOURSELF

Signature Luxury Travel & Lifestyle magazine is now an app. Simply head to the Apple App Store or Newsstand on your mobile or iOS device, search ‘Signature Luxury Travel’, download and enjoy.

Follow us on

www.signaturemagazine.com.au

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signaturexxxxxxxxx

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raymond-weil.com T: (02) 9363-1088 E: [email protected]

Jasmine CollectionScan for watch details

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Call of the wildA golden lioness sharing an intimate moment with her cub – a sight not often glimpsed by the typical safari onlooker – captured here by renowned wildlife photographer Billy Dodson. This image is just one in a striking Savanna collection snapped through his lens. Dodson’s eye for Africa’s east is inspiringly finessed, and he imparts his passion by hosting several photographic tours each year through the wonders of Kenya and Tanzania. Budding photographers follow in his footsteps, enjoying lion (and all manner of wildlife) encounters of their own while forming an album that treks from the iconic Serengeti to Kilimanjaro. www.savannaimages.com

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Visions of Venice Venice has a reputation that is notoriously medieval, conjuring images of masked opulence and patent-black gondolas gliding noiselessly down watery roads. The city’s main thoroughfare, the Grand Canal, is where Amanresort’s Venetian property enjoys one of the best locations in the city. The 16th-century Palazzo Papadopoli has been given a new lease of life with chic, minimalist interiors that contrast with the original frescoes and gilded bas-reliefs. Despite Venice’s longevity, it remains one of the world’s most fragile cities. Falling victim to the very water that makes it so remarkable, the city has been slowly sinking for centuries. www.amanresorts.com

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The magic of MungoIn the red-earth heart of western New South Wales hidden within muted colours and vast expanses, Aboriginal footsteps hark back to the Dreamtime. Rocks tell the stories of artefacts dating back 50,000 years and hold captivating insights into how the earth’s landscape has been moulded into what we see today. Whether walking the famed Mungo Track, embarking on an Aboriginal Discovery Tour through the Willandra Lakes’ three tribal groups, or sampling the diverse scenery on a number of shorter walks, wanderers in Mungo National Park near Mildura will not help but feel a kinship with those who have walked here before. www.visitmungo.com.au

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EDITOR CATHY WAGSTAFFE-mail: [email protected]

SUB-EDITORS REBECCA LAWSON, JOANNA TOVIA

CONTRIBUTORS DAMON M. BANKS, LEON DE BORD, NICK CONSTANCE, AMY COOPER

C. JAMES DALE, MADELINE HOSKIN, AMELIA HUNGERFORD, JILL INNAMORATI-VARLEY, REBECCA LAWSON,

ANDREW MARSHALL, DALE R MORRIS, JOCELYN PRIDE, BARRY STONE, JOANNA TOVIA, CATHY WAGSTAFF, TRICIA WELSH

ARTArt director MARGARET MIAC

Designers KIM HOOVER-SADLER, ALEX CONNOR, GEMMA KIGHTLY

ADVERTISING [email protected] Tel: +612 9406 4400

NATIONAL ACCOUNT MANAGERSHOWARD SHAW, JON VAN DAAL

NATIONAL GSM OF LUXURY BRANDSGEORGIA FALCKE

[email protected]

PRODUCTION ASSISTANTSSAMANTHA ROWNTREE, GEMMA KIGHTLY

ONLINE MANAGERS LISA WAGSTAFF, MADELINE HOSKIN

DISTRIBUTIONSold in all major newsagents and by subscription. Distributed in Australia, New Zealand, Asia, Middle East. Airline lounges, luxury car dealerships,

five-star hotels and resorts, leading travel agents, etc.

ASSOCIATIONSSignature Luxury Travel & Lifestyle is the exclusive travel & lifestyle magazine

in Australia for the Luxury Network – a global organisation of the most desired brands in the world. This provides an exceptional reach to

consumers of luxury.

Signature Luxury Travel & Lifestyle is partnered with Citigold, the private banking arm of Citibank. The magazine is direct mailed to their top tier

private banking clients in Australia and Asia.

Signature Luxury Travel & Lifestyle is the exclusive Australian member on the judging panel of the Seven Star Global Luxury Awards, the most exclusive

awards for hospitality and lifestyle worldwide. PUBLISHED BY Signature Media ABN 29 001 544 538

PO Box 1825 Chatswood NSW Australia 2057

ENQUIRIESGeneral enquiries: [email protected] Tel: +61 2 9406 4400

Editorial enquiries: [email protected]

Special thanks to all members of the Signature team

PRINTED BY OFFSET ALPINE PRINTINGSignature Magazine is published quarterly

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I N S P I R E D B Y PA S S I O N

Experience true luxury at our Ultimate collection of hotels.

Begin the U-experience: call (230) 402 2772/73 or visit us at www.constancehotels.com

hotel EXPERIENCE by Constance

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Connect to the World’s Greatest PlacesFounded in 1962, Abercrombie & Kent is the world’s foremost luxury travel company, delivering inspiring experiences in the world’s greatest destinations through a global network of 50 offices. Connections by Abercrombie & Kent is the latest portfolio of journeys revealing great destinations at terrific value. You can choose to explore your desired destination in your preferred method of travel: with a group or on a private journey with only yourself and your travelling companion on set departure dates.

To view all itineraries, please visit ak-connections.com.auFor more information please contact your local travel agent or A&K on 1300 783 734

Along the Danube10 days priced from US$4,195

East Africa: Tanzania & Kenya11 days priced from US$6,235

Spain: Seven Cities10 days priced from US$5,795

• A portfolio of 20 crafted A&K journeys spanning 4 continents• Maximum group size of only 24 guests• All departures are guaranteed to operate with a minimum of 2 guests• More interaction with your A&K Tour Director

• New 2014 destinations include Russia, Turkey, Myanmar and South Africa as well as a new line of European River Cruise Journeys

• Other destinations include Italy, Spain, Croatia, China.

Peru: Inca Delights8 days priced from AU$3,220

Vietnam: North to South8 days priced from AU$2,185

India: Princes and Palaces8 days priced from AU$1,475

• A portfolio of 14 well-paced A&K itineraries with plenty of time for exploring the destination

• Private itineraries designed specifically for one or two people• Set departure dates for quick confirmation

• Private touring with your own private driver/guide and vehicle• Destinations include Turkey, Botswana, South Africa, East Africa,

Kenya, China, Vietnam, India, Sri Lanka, Egypt, Morocco, Peru, Chile and Argentina.

ak-connections.com.au

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SIGNATURE CONCIERGEProvence Wild brumbies Priority Pass World Cup Luxury properties and tours

Aerial Sydney Dreamy drives Fisherman’s heaven Incan exhibition New in Fiji

Cruising in style Hayley Baillie Lust haves Property reviews

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Classic provincial styleAs the former home of French artist Bernard Buffet, Domaine de la Baume acted as inspiration for many of his later works. Now, transformed into 15 rooms and suites, guests can soak up true French elegance in this 40-hectare property. With plans to open up a further 23 rooms in 2014, Domaine de la Baume is fast becoming a must-visit destination in Provence. Each one of the rooms is uniquely decorated to reflect the beauty of 18th-century elegance and style. The signature suite, The Annabel Suite, is named after Buffet’s wife, and includes a terrace with magnificent views. In addition to the superb accommodation at Domaine de la Baume, exceptional cuisine is created by chef François Martin, who scours the region for produce, not settling for anything but the absolute best. en.domaine-delabaume.com

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Celebrate Australia’s wild horses

Brumbies may well be the galloping spirit of Australia, enshrined in story and myth through the likes of The Man from Snowy River and the Silver Brumby book series. However, iconic status aside, little has been recorded on the real-life experiences of brumbies in the Australian bush. That is until now. Adopting the role of brumby advocates, Kathryn Massey and Mae Lee Sun — authors of the recent book Brumby — A celebration of Australia’s Wild Horses — have collated breathtaking imagery and a collection of thought-provoking, light-hearted and engaging stories that come straight from the horse’s mouth of those fortunate enough to have encountered these intangible animals. Massey is the founder and president of the Hunter Valley Brumby Association, while Sun has spent the past 15 years as an animal welfare advocate, freelance journalist, photographer and editor. Exquisitely composed, the book makes a perfect gift for enthusiasts of animals and this great red nation, with royalties from sales going towards the enduring efforts to help the Australian brumbies. www.exislepublishing.com.au

Access world lounges with one card

Wouldn’t it be heavenly if choice of airline, class of ticket and airline membership status were irrelevant considerations for the luxury traveller? Now, first-class flyers can enjoy coverage at over 600 airport lounges worldwide, all under one, comprehensive membership — the Priority Pass. A number of Australia’s frequent flyers are cottoning on, embracing the Priority Pass’s VIP benefits including Wi-Fi, conference rooms, reading materials, work spaces, complimentary snacks and beverages, and entertainment choice. Understanding that even the most luxurious flying schedule has its limitations, lounges also provide showers and beds for rest and relaxation while in transit. Best of all it’s incredibly convenient, allowing members to browse VIP lounges from their smart phone, tablet or computer. With an expansive list of locations incorporated into the pass, one can find comforts beckoning anywhere from Malta to Manchester, Lima to Las Vegas, Tokyo to Tel Aviv. Access starts from $99 per year, with a Prestige unlimited-access membership costing $399 annually. www.prioritypass.com

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2014 World Cup Fever

Few sports boast as fervent and dedicated a fan base as soccer, and very few sporting competitions are anticipated as strongly as the FIFA World Cup. Passions are running extra high for the 2014 tournament, because for the first time in over 50 years, the event will be hosted by soccer superstars, Brazil. They have taken home the coveted trophy no less than five times and have competed in every tournament since its inception in 1930.

With the Socceroos’ position in the first round secure, many Australians are planning to visit Brazil to support their team and experience the excitement first-hand. Matches are scheduled to be played around the country, allowing visitors the opportunity to not only soak up the World Cup fever, but also discover the beauty this South American country offers. LAN and TAM Airlines will increase both international and domestic flights between 10 June and 15 July this year, with TAM also altering routes to better service the various host cities. The modifications will see the airline operating 22,000 flights within Brazil over the course of the tournament, making it easier than ever to discover the myriad facets of this colossal nation.www.fifa.com/worldcup | www.lan.com | www.tam.com.br

signatureconcierge

Adventure to the Last True Wilderness

DARWIN

BROOME

WESTERN AUSTRALIA

INDIAN OCEAN

DERBY

CAPE LEVEQUE

KALUMBURU

FITZROY CROSSING

HALLSCREEK

KUNUNURRAWYNDHAM

BERKELEY RIVER

WYNDHAM

THE JOSEPH BONAPARTE GULF

KUNUNURRA

TAKE ME THERE PLAN YOUR BERKELEY RIVER EXPERIENCE – BEST ACCESSED FROM KUNUNURRAWWW.BERKELEYRIVER.COM.AU P: 08 9169 1330 E: [email protected]

The Berkeley River Lodge is Australia’s newest, most remote luxury lodge. See firsthand why this region was named by The New York Times as one of the top travel destinations in the world. Only accessible by air or sea, getting to The Berkeley is half the adventure.

From your villa, floating atop the coastal dune, a whole world of little-known Kimberley treasures opens out before you. Take a barefoot stroll to secluded pristine beaches, a safari drive to wildlife-rich bushlands, a river cruise through majestic gorges, a helicopter flight to the remotest swimming holes and fishing spots, or master the fine art of doing as little as possible, Berkeley River style.

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Luxury Adventure

CruisesTRUE NORTH

Luxury Adventure Cruises

An adventure on the TRUE NORTH is one of Australia’s most revered holidays! Bigger ships cannot go where we go! Extended periods at sea are specifically excluded and daily activities can include scenic walks, fishing, snorkelling, diving, scenic flights in the ship’s helicopter and cultural events. We deploy comfortable expedition boats (not rubber boats) and discover wilderness in small groups. An AUSTRALIAN crew uniquely chaperones every experience. Beware of imitations and discover for yourself why our guests consistently remark “that’s the best holiday I have ever had!”

The Kimberley Wilderness season commences in March. North Star Cruises pioneered adventure-cruising in this stunning region – nobody knows the Kimberley like we do! The TRUE NORTH is an Australian registered ship and not required to exit territorial waters on domestic voyages – our Kimberley cruises are conducted entirely in the Kimberley!

Book now to ensure the best cabins on the best trips of the year.

North Star Cruises AustraliaTel: (+61 8) 9192 1829Email: [email protected] Twenty Five Years of Adventure

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Where the wild things roam

The 30 luxury villas of Anantara Sir Bani Yas Island Al Sahel Villa Resort are set among the rugged landscape of a desert island, 100 kilometres south-west of Abu Dhabi. Located in the heart of the 4100-hectare Arabian Wildlife Park, Anantara’s latest Middle Eastern venture invites you to bask in natural splendour and outdoor adventure. Each one- and two-bedroom villa features signature Anantara amenities to accompany the copper bathtub and traditional woodwork that takes advantage of the natural light-filled spaces. Larger pool villas also boast personal plunge pools and a separate lounge and dining area. Explore the island’s wonder from sunrise on horseback to lagoon kayaking and safari drives, or sample African specialties side-by-side with Western favourites at Savannah Grill. www.anantara.com

Rare slice of Balinese paradise

As the first five-star hotel to take advantage of the upper Tanjung Benoa Peninsula, The Chedi Sakala offers seclusion and indulgence in a rare underdeveloped slice of Nusa Dua. This 261-room resort is spread across 2.5 hectares. From lofty ocean-view suites to the unbounded luxury of two-storey pool villas, rooms at The Chedi Sakala offer spaciousness with sleek Balinese design. Resort dining is brought to a new level with beachfront restaurant Sakala Bali and its French twist on local cuisine. Just as special, The Restaurant’s menu is lovingly split between Asian and European favourites. The resort will also boast a spa sanctuary, kids’ club and Club Lounge when these facilities are completed in the coming months. www.ghmhotels.com

Enriched travel off the beaten track

Luxury travellers will experience the exotic in unrivalled comfort with Gypsian Boutique Tours, a company that provides authentic, soul-enriching travel. The small tour operator explores Morocco, Spain, Greece and Turkey in groups of no more than 10. Sail the Mediterranean, dine on culinary delights, experience the bustle of Marrakesh, saunter camel-top across the dunes of the Sahara and more. The experience is truly unique, veering away from the five-star resort chains to opt for luscious riads, tents beneath the stars and curious cave luxuries. The Australian tour leader will ensure you miss no interesting fact or story, guiding travellers at a relaxed pace that affords time to truly delve deep into these culturally rich surrounds. www.gypsianboutiquetours.com.au

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For terms, conditions and more information view nanukufiji.com or call + 679 345 2100

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View Sydney from the sky

There is little better than a new perspective to renew appreciation for a sight or location, and for those visiting Australian shores or looking to escape the cloisters of Sydney stresses, this can be achieved in a very literal fashion. Aviation-admirers, in groups of up to six, can take to the skies, enjoying Sydney and its surrounds with Sydney HeliTours’ range of heli-experiences. Having flown over 143,000 passengers since 1993, they provide the safest of hands as you soar over Sydney’s harbour, explore the rugged coastline or venture further afield to the Blue Mountains or Hunter Valley regions. Experience the thrill of ‘Doors Off’ flying or take it all in at a leisurely pace with one of their unequalled Luncheon or Eco-Tour options. www.sydneyhelitours.com.au

Welcome to fishing heaven

Aboard 20-metre yacht Blue Martini, complete with gourmet chef and helicopter or seaplane transfers, a fishing trip with Far North Sports Fishing certainly provides the finer things in life. The multi-million-dollar tri-level yacht offers day trips or live-aboard charters between North Queensland’s Port Douglas and Lizard Island districts, reeling in black marlin, barramundi and giant trevally. Flexibility is assured, with three six-metre centre consoles available to whisk guests off in pairs to enjoy ultimate fishing stops on the iconic Great Barrier Reef with custom-made tackle and outriggers, and an expert guide. Charters aboard this mothership can accommodate up to six; a perfect choice for groups of friends, family or colleagues. www.farnorthsportsfishing.com

Dreamy cars for drives in style

Add a touch of indulgence to your next holiday drive with the new Dream Collection from Hertz. Cruising around England’s picturesque countryside is always charming, but doing so in an Aston Martin or Bentley is sure to set the hearts of motoring enthusiasts pounding. Picking up your dream car from London Marble Arch and Heathrow Airport is now a VIP experience, with the help of a team that allows you to bypass the counter queue. They’ll even load your bags and configure the GPS. The Hertz Dream Collection includes the Bentley Continental GT, the Bentley Flying Spur, Aston Martin’s legendary DB9 and the all-new Range Rover Sport. The Dream Collection is also available at selected destinations in Belgium, Germany, Italy, the Netherlands and the US.www.hertzdreamcollection.co.uk

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Delight is the Worldat extraordinary savings.

Complimentary in-suite bar stocked with your preferences

Complimentary open bars throughout the ship

Complimentary fine wines poured at lunch and dinner

Complimentary welcome champagne

Spacious all-suite accommodations

Tipping is neither required nor expected

Award-winning gourmet dining, and more

This is the art of delight

Agent 2TA 5580 Ships’ Registry: Bahamas. ©2013 Seabourn.

Enjoy your journey on the World’s Best Small-Ship Cruise Line.Contact your travel professional or call Seabourn on 13 24 02.

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Incan splendour on display

For those fascinated by the allure of history, myth and culture, ‘Gold and the Incas: Lost Worlds of Peru’, the stunning exhibit running at the National Gallery of Australia in Canberra, is a must-attend. Lose yourself amid stories from ancient cultures such as the Inca, Chavín, Nazca and Moche, that reach far beyond the iconic Machu Picchu. Praise the gold craftsmanship they practised; marvel at their sophisticated and intricate jewellery, embroidery and ceramics; and discover the magic behind some of the region’s most prominent archaeological sites that date back over 2000 years. If a Peruvian holiday is potentially on the cards, this display will whet your appetite and spur you on. The exhibition will run until 21 April, 2014. www.nga.gov.au/Incas | www.peru.travel

Boutique all-villa resort for Fiji

Blessed with an enviable position on the pristine waters of Beqa Lagoon, Nanuku Resort and Spa sets a new benchmark in luxe South Pacific living. This new all-villa boutique resort with private clubhouse melds contemporary luxury with traditional Fijian design. Personal butlers and private nannies await to make your holiday unforgettable with tailored experiences and exceptional service. The Vunikau Residence is perched dramatically on a volcanic outcrop overlooking the serene Beqa Lagoon. Five striking Beachfront Residences are steps from the secluded white-sand beach. You will find airy design complemented by expansive decks and outdoor living rooms with day beds for balmy days over the ocean. www.nanukufiji.com

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A lifetime of extraordinary travel

Go beyond the tourist façade

Uncover the great civilisations

Experience the beauty of nature

Explore the unexplored

Breath the passion that comes with uncovering the most extraordinary destinations our planet’s last frontiers can offer. Adventure World is committed to inspire and provide you with a holiday that meets and exceeds your expectations—holidays of a lifetime.

Are you ready to travel the extraordinary?1300 363 055 www.adventureworld.com

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True North luxury adventures

True North, the boutique 50-metre-long vessel from North Star Cruises Australia, will go full-steam ahead once again in 2014 to offer luxurious itineraries throughout the Kimberley, the Australian coastline, and the rugged islands of West Papua and Papua New Guinea. Sleeping 36 guests with a crew of 20, passengers will voyage into little-chartered territories, aided not only by their intimate cruise liner, but also sleek and speedy expedition boats and a six-passenger helicopter. Combined, these afford guests the chance to picnic atop a waterfall, �y over a volcano, swim, �sh and explore the most hidden of waterholes, uncover largely untouched corals and more. www.northstarcruises.com.au

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When you step onboard the Aranui 3 you know you have embarked on a very different cruise holiday.

This unique 2003 built passenger-freighter caters for 200 passengers and comes complete with a lounge, bars, conference room, swimming pool, a boutique, accommodation which ranges from spacious suites with a balcony to deluxe and standard cabins, each with ocean views.

Experience a 14 day adventure discovering the most remote islands of the Marquesas Archipelagos located 1,500 kms North-East of Tahiti. You will take part in delivering essential goods as well as cars and building materials to 16 local villages.

In addition to this vital role, Aranui Cruises offers a soft adventure holiday with a real cultural discovery element, allowing passengers to absorb some of the world’s most remarkable scenery on ancient volcanic islands fringed with black sandy beaches.

Excursions and activities include:

�s Discover 8 islands with 16 ports of call

�s Visiting local Marquesan villages and handicraft centres

�s Archaeological and cultural sites, tikis, churches, all with on site lecturers

�s Enjoying traditional dance shows, 4WD, hiking and sightseeing tours

�s Restaurants, picnics and BBQs on white sandy beaches

�s Visiting Paul Gauguin and Jacques Brel Museum (entrance fee not included)

�s Local multi-lingual tour guides (English, French and German)

�s Fantastic 14-day cruise, which includes 3 meals/day* A doctor is also available during all excursions and onboard travel Optional activities not included are horseback riding, trawling, deep sea �shing and scuba diving.

Discover ParadiseCruise in the comfort of the unique Tahitian passenger-freighter, Aranui 3

Bookings: [email protected] | e: [email protected] | p: (+61) 3 9449 3778 | www.aranuicruises.com.au

NEW 2015 OUT NOW!

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ALL IN THE FAMILY

What luxury touches await at Baillie Lodges?To me, luxury isn’t about ostentatious built environments, rather contemporary design with a sense of place that combines with fabulous food and a feeling of warmth. If all these ingredients are in place then there is the perfect platform to either relax or explore.

Which property are you most proud of creating?It was truly a ‘If you build it, they will come’ moment when we first crested the clifftop above Hanson Bay on Kangaroo Island and encountered untouched horizons in every direction. Early

opposition to the Southern Ocean Lodge concept only strengthened our resolve to showcase the spectacular location of Kangaroo Island in a way that was sympathetic to the environment and complementary to the local community, thus preserving its unique qualities and sense of place. We believe our guests will have an enduring memory of Southern Ocean Lodge, something that will stay with them forever.

What did your father teach you that serves you in your business now?Dad taught me communication is key. Always ask for advice and travel through life constantly inspired.

Do you share the same sense of adventure?One might say it’s in the blood! From an early age I was exposed to my father’s passion for Australia and for preserving its natural heritage and showcasing it to the world. My thirst for adventure and wanderlust only continues to grow.

What did you want to be growing up?From school, my path was clear and I sought adventure for more than a decade as an undersea specialist and cruise director on board the world’s best expedition ships travelling to the far reaches of the globe.

How much travelling do you do now?James and I alternate visits between all of the properties every six weeks and I still get a thrill every time. I love watching guests’ faces as they walk into the lodge for the first time and get a glimpse of the wild ocean at Southern Ocean Lodge, the turquoise reef at Capella or majestic Uluru at Longitude. Literally, their jaws drop.

Is it difficult to juggle work and motherhood?I have four sons aged 5, 7, 9 and 11. It is a challenge to find that right work-home balance but we have been very fortunate to have great support from family and others. We try to spend quality time as a family on weekends and do various trips each year to both our properties and overseas. This is a great time to connect as a family.

What are your hopes for Baillies Sydney?Intimate, rarefied and bespoke, Baillies Sydney will provide a level of experiential accommodation new to Sydney. A unique blend of heritage will meld with contemporary Australian design, first-name hosted service and an exceptional location in Sydney’s historic Rocks precinct. Our guests will feel like they are staying with old friends, ones that ‘hold the keys’ to quintessential Sydney. www.baillielodges.com.au

Eleven years ago, Hayley Baillie set out to create a boutique portfolio of luxurious accommodation in unique Australian locations. This adventurous entrepreneur, daughter of Dick Smith, takes us on her journey so far and reveals what the fourth Baillie property promises travellers.

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Congratulations to the Gold, Silver and Bronze winners of the

The Australian Tourism Awards are the tourism industry’s peak Awards – recognising and promoting excellence in tourism. For both the industry and the consumer an Australian Tourism Award is recognised as a mark of excellence in Australian tourism.

australiantourismawards.com.au

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A seasoned delightFranck Muller has created a fascinating and sophisticated visualisation of the four seasons in this stunning, self-winding Double Mystery Quatre Saisons timepiece. Available in both 18ct pink or white gold and set with 338 diamonds and 273 round coloured stones, this is one watch bound to dazzle all onlookers. A truly elegant and artistic statement for all seasons. $110,700 (rose gold). www.franckmuller.com

Safe keepingDöttling is a brand synonymous with fine German craftsmanship. This model, Pauline, is a superb petite luxury safe, managing to muster a secure 400kg weight in its one-metre height, crafted from the finest calf leather, Alcantara suede and polished metals. With numerous configuration options and special upgrades, it’s the perfect customisable safe house for valuables. From $172,452. www.doettling.com

Carried awayThis craftsman-made travel bag from Akubra is inspired by the classic English Gladstone bag, many of which found their way to Australia during the great migration of the 1900s. It features solid brass, mortise locks handmade in England, and is fittingly named in honour of the great Australian, Sir Douglas Mawson, one of the most celebrated Antarctic explorers in the world. $1500. www.akubra.com.au

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Diorific designsTimelessly elegant as always, Christian Dior’s ‘Diorific’ necklace in golden metal is a sculptural gem, made to wrap perfectly around the neck of any esteemed lady of grace. With each strand crowned at the tip with cream resin pearls, the blend of pearl and metal is one that will forever remain a staple in your jewellery collection. $3100. www.dior.com

Snap happily This Hasselblad Stellar Digital Camera is one in a premium range of Hasselblad cameras. With high-quality zoom, this pocket-sized piece delivers DSLR-like performance that will please amateurs and pros alike. The elegant aluminium design is revolutionised with the incorporation of a unique, ergonomic Wenge Wood handgrip, allowing photo enthusiasts to snap their 20.2 megapixel photos in ultimate style. $2499. www.hasselblad.com.au

Antique adorationBlatt Billiards in Manhattan boasts the world’s largest collection of antique pool tables and is renowned as the unsurpassed custom pool table manufacturer. Supported by this prolific reputation, its clientele are amongst the wealthiest and most famous people in America and beyond. This particular billiard table, the Casablanca, is an extremely rare mahogany antique, and while it cannot be bought, exact replicas can be created. POA. www.blattbilliards.com

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THE CLUB UPON THE HILL

The hills around Natadola Bay are not among Fiji’s many tourist hotspots. But with a curving white sand beach protected by

a vibrant coral reef that provides the feel of the outer islands without leaving the mainland, it’s easy to see why InterContinental chose to establish its Fijian presence in such a tranquil part of the world.

Set among 14 hectares of manicured tropical gardens less than an hour from Nadi Airport, the InterContinental Fiji Golf Resort & Spa is almost two resorts in one, for above the resort and the ocean you find the sophisticated Club InterContinental. The Club compound is home to 55 suites, including the residential Natadola Suite, as well as a number of luxurious additions and services for its guests.

These become evident as soon as you hear your first ‘Bula!’ upon arrival. Club guests are treated to a separate check- in at the Club Lounge and a golf cart will be waiting to whisk you past the resort bures and up the hill, lush with tropical landscaping.

As soon as you step foot in the lounge, your eyes are drawn beyond the impeccably arranged tables to the exclusive infinity pool that languishes under the Fijian sun and the electric-blue waters of the bay below. Somewhere

down at the resort, a drummer is welcoming guests with a warlike cry. But up here, your vision is arrested, blinded by the sun and the water, so that you can’t even begin to think of your awaiting suite. And those basket-woven cocoons by the pool, lined with cushions — the nest rests — really do look tempting.

The Club Lounge, a private hillside oasis, is the centrepiece of the Club InterContinental compound, offering modern island cuisine and that famed Fijian hospitality at all hours of the day courtesy of the Itokani butler service. Club guests are invited to enjoy complimentary buffet breakfasts, afternoon teas and sunset canapés accompanied by cocktails, all with the panoramic views of the lounge. Nothing goes quite so well with a pink-streaked sky and disappearing sun as a freshly made mojito and a plate (or two) of finely crafted hors d’oeuvres.

When at last you retreat to your suite, you will find a luxurious haven with an air of barefoot simplicity. The tiles are cool underfoot and wooden finishes contrast with pops of colour. Marble bathrooms come stocked with Pure Fiji amenities, but it is the outdoor Cleopatra bath that is the real draw. Light the candles, add a generous helping of coconut milk ‘bath soak’, and discover true relaxation as you listen to the waves lapping on the beach below. The Queen Cleopatra bath ritual

Amelia Hungerford retreats to a haven above the bay and discovers why tranquil Fiji is always in style. is an in-room treat true romantics will

cherish — and a must for honeymooners. If you can pull yourself away from the

delights of the Club compound, your first stop will surely be Spa InterContinental. Rediscover tranquillity and balance behind the stone walls, indulging in treatments combining the best from Eastern, Western and Fijian traditions. Make sure you arrive early to take advantage of the Wai Zone — an aqua therapy area that means ‘water’ in Fijian — and feel free to linger after your treatment, too.

Also by the beach, you will find the resort’s three restaurants. Toba is perfect for a casual meal, while Sanasana features themed buffet dinners each night. The crowning jewel, however, is Navo. Overlooking the lagoon and its sacred island namesake, Navo showcases Fijian flavours with expert execution.

Club InterContinental Fiji bathes guests in tropical luxury at every turn, all with that famous Fijian hospitality.

Travel fileAccommodationwww.fiji.intercontinental.com

Getting there www.fijiairways.com

Private cars or helicopter transfers can be booked through the hotel from Nadi Airport.

01 The Club InterContinental pool

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ALPINE FUSION

Ski-lovers who have waited in eager anticipation for the Chedi Andermatt — it’s time to exhale. The new complex of rich wood

slats and pitched chalet roofs that mirror the peaks of its mountainous backdrop has now opened after four years under construction. Here is a hotel so suited to its Swiss surrounds you’ll forget the Chedi name is one typically synonymous

with its Bali or Oman offerings. However, Andermatt’s connection to these far-flung branches is not lost amid the snow; rather it is embraced, creating an outstanding convergence of Asian and Alpine design that echoes through the lobby, suites, facilities and surrounds.

Indeed, the first snow offering from GHM has pulled out all stops to live up to the hospitality management group’s quality reputation, with the final project expected to see over $375 million invested. No expense has been spared from the choice of a tranquil nook in the Urseren Valley, to the enlisted help of Belgian designer Jean-Michel Gathy who concocted the hotel’s 104 spacious rooms and suites.

At an altitude of 1440 metres, this once-esoteric resort destination enjoys some of the best snow in the Alps. Until its undeniable Swiss charm captured the curiosity of Andermatt funder,

Alpine and oriental luxuries merge at the Swiss Alps’ brand-new luxury hotel, the Chedi Andermatt, writes Madeline Hoskin.

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01 The outdoor lounge02 The Chedi Andermatt blanketted in snow03 Private dining room04 Deluxe Room

Egyptian billionaire Samih Sawiris, the decommissioned army base was destined to fall into obscurity and ruin. Its new opening as a luxury resort marks a grand milestone in the revitalisation of this ski haven.

And a grand milestone it is. Already inducted into the 400-strong Leading Hotels of the World collection, visitors can expect this hotel to offer the highest in luxury standards, from warm woods, stone designs and entrancing views across the white-washed Alps, to ultra plush furnishings and Asian-inspired flourishes.

The marriage of Swiss and Oriental extends from design into dining, with alpine selections complemented with a five-metre-high cheese cellar at The Restaurant, or quality sushi, sashimi and tempura at The Japanese Restaurant. One can also soak up the respective ambiences of The Wine and Cigar Library, The Bar and Living Room, The Lobby, The Courtyard or The Pool.

All ski resorts need their spa retreat, and the European nuances throughout Andermatt’s 2400-square-metre health spa will revitalise body, mind and soul. The facility offers indoor and outdoor pools, yoga classes, Finnish saunas, organic sol steam baths, state-of-the-art Technogym equipment, as well as a team of highly trained therapists providing all methods of pampering.

The Chedi is just the first stage in a much larger development in the Andermatt Swiss Alps. The area is soon to boast several hotels and apartment buildings, designer shops, luxury golfing

in summer, and an innovative new lift system that is set to make these slopes the greenest place to ski in the Alps.

This expansive alpine playground is sure to lure many a lover of luxury, mountains, snow and slopes.

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Travel fileAccommodationwww.ghmhotels.com

Getting there Swiss Air flies into Milan, Lucerne and Zurich, all less than two hours away by car. Private aircraft can land in Buochs, 45 minutes away.

www.swiss.com www.airportbuochs.ch

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191 Mitchell Parade Mollymook NSW South Coast 02 4455 3044 www.bannisters.com.au

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SIGNATURE TRAVELLaucala Island, Fiji Pangkor Laut Jordan Sir Richard Branson’s new safari property

Puerto Rico Toronto Norfolk Island Champagne region

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LUSCIOUS LAUCALAEnjoying a redefined level of luxury, Cathy Wagstaff relishes three days of sumptuous massages, languid swims and unsurpassed service on Fiji’s most luxurious... and most private... of islands.

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I really don’t want to leave. Laucala’s private jet is waiting patiently to whisk me back to the real world, but here on what is unquestionably one of the most

beautiful, most luxurious private islands in the world, I just want to linger and succumb to its charms a little longer.

Laucala Island has been the most seductive experience, where absolute luxury merges with nature at its most idyllic. The resort spans the island’s northern coast, with villas stretching along private beaches or hidden among the hills. Buggies transport guests from the waterside spa to horse-riding lessons in the southern area of the island, passing a magnificent 18-hole championship golf course on the way.

It is a lush 1400-hectare island where nature reigns and architecture gracefully cedes superiority to the environment’s wild grandeur. Coconut groves grow alongside exotic orchids; jungle creeps to the edge of white sand beaches and hidden coves; and all is ringed by the stunning blue halo of its protective reef.

Once owned, and much loved, by US billionaire Malcolm Forbes, Laucala is now a private escape for the likes of Oprah Winfrey and Elle Macpherson, as well as attracting the world’s leading golfers, including Aussie champion Adam Scott. Present owner, Red Bull baron Dietrich Mateschitz, has indulged his every dream in bringing the resort to life, with money seemingly no object.

Care and passion ooze into every detail. Each of the 25 villas (including the owner’s extraordinary Hilltop Residence)

exists in splendid isolation amid wild and verdant surrounds. The morning greets me with songs from the forest, weaving through the free-flowing complex that is my beachfront Plantation Residence. Constructed with natural materials, including thatch roofs, bala bala fern stems and timber from the island, the villas are grand in every sense.

Room to moveSpace is the true luxury on Laucala. Airy rooms supported by beams bearing traditional intricate designs lead out to a maze of pavilions, containing my two huge outdoor granite baths and the vast open-air lounge, meandering down to the private infinity pool ringed by Tikki torches in the evening (which is conveniently just metres from my private beach). I also find the villa to be deceptively high-tech, for among the driftwood and pebbles hide modern Bose sound systems and all the fancy conveniences you could hope for. My personal ‘Tao’ (meaning ‘my friend’ in Fijian) is on speed-dial, and he ensures

all three bar fridges are fully stocked with the finest drops the island has to offer, as well as liberal amounts of Red Bull. For those who demand the very best (and who are fortunate enough to have their application accepted), Mateschitz’s Hilltop Residence is a resort within the resort. It presides over the island’s highest point on a volcanic mountain, commanding views across the Fijian archipelago from the sophisticated main residence (complete with multi-level swimming pool) and its two guest residences. A private cook, chauffeur and nanny all add to the exclusive island experience. And it will only set you back $42,000 a night.

Nothing has been left to chance, especially the service. Managers Risako and David Stepetic have instilled a high level of work ethic in the 350 staff, many of them working here since the resort’s opening in 2009.

Eighty per cent of everything consumed in the resort, from fruit and flowers to candles and moisturisers, is produced on the island.

“LAUCALA ISLAND HAS BEEN THE MOST SEDUCTIVE EXPERIENCE; ABSOLUTE LUXURY MERGES WITH NATURE AT ITS MOST IDYLLIC.”

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01 Laucala’s Peninsula Villa02 Peninsula Villa lounge03 The sumptuous spa04 Earthy delights of Plateau Villa’s bathroom05 Plateau Villa’s lounge06 Divine fine dining

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Self-sustaining The 97-hectare farm grows organic crops, as well as containing quail pens, subterranean coconut crab enclosures, a piggery, a duck pond and a cattle farm complete with abattoir. Beehives provide honey and chocolates are handmade in-house from the resort’s own cocoa beans. Three organic greenhouses produce vegetables the likes of which you’ll never find in your local supermarkets, and gardens nurture the flowers you find daily in your bure. More than a quarter of the island is covered by coconut groves, used for food, beauty products, building materials and cocktails under the soaring roof of the Pool Bar. On Laucala, paddock-to-plate dining is taken to a whole new level.

The spa is a remarkable showcase. Pools of lotus flowers surround the hilltop oasis, cooled by fresh ocean breezes. Guests can experience wet treatments with two Vichy

showers available. I couldn’t resist a Fijian Bombo massage using Molikara Coconut Oil, one of the resort’s four signature scents. I chose well; the massage is sublime. And yet more bliss is to come, for the next day I’m spirited away on a speedboat to Tadra beach where champagne and a long, rejuvenating Swedish massage await.

On an island as naturally extraordinary as Laucala, the great outdoors is as much a temptation as the spa. Riding on horseback through the coconut plantations is true peace. I also opt for a round of golf. The 18-hole championship course cuts through the green hills, carving out a place on the island that is mine alone. Even when the resort is at its maximum capacity of 89 guests, you will rarely meet another soul.

Water sports have their own appeal, and an entourage of instructors are on hand to take me jet skiing, wakeboarding and

speedboat riding. Diving with glimmering tropical fish is available at 25 locations, or you can do it yourself right off the beach.

My last evening is spent aboard the resort’s luxury yacht, a Riviera Open Flybridge (one of a fleet of 14 watercraft), from where the resort appears in all its glorious green wonder before disappearing into a black silhouette against the gold-stained sky.

On my final day, after an early morning meditation watching the sun rise over the Pacific, I reflect on how incredible this island experience has been.

Travel fileAccommodationwww.laucala.com

Getting there www.fijiairways.com

Guests will be transported from Nadi Airport by Laucala’s private jet.

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07 The owner’s Hilltop Estate 08 The exquisite Overwater Villa09 Horse-riding is one of many activities10 The lounge in the stunning Hilltop Estate11 Seaside soaking in the Overwater Villa

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GARDEN OF EDENConnoisseurs of high-end luxury and those wanting to admire Mother Nature at her finest will find all they are looking for and

more at Malaysia’s Pangkor Laut, discovers Cathy Wagstaff.

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Pangkor Laut is a Garden of Eden, pure and simple. This tiny green gem of an island, draped in ancient tropical rainforest as

it has been for the last two million years, appears to have been forgotten by time. It is just a drop in the ocean — a 121-hectare speck set in the Straits of Malacca off the west coast of Malaysia — but what a beautiful drop it is. Here, nature has been given a flourishing free reign you feel it the moment you arrive.

Civilisation has certainly come to make its mark on this private island, and yet tourism has been a delicate intrusion. Sultans, Malaysian royalty and even the great tenor Luciano Pavarotti have all been entranced by Pangkor Laut’s tranquil natural beauty. The island remains dominated by the ancient flora and fauna of its rainforests, with the architecture designed around, and often determined by, the encroaching jungle.

What has been created is Pangkor Laut Resort, comprising 140 beautifully appointed villas and eight of the elegant Muse private estates, a magical blend of unobtrusive luxury that sits gently amid nature’s lush surrounding garden.

Pavarotti spent days lingering at a beautiful villa high on a hill, the island and sea spread below him. The villa is now, in his honour, named the Pavarotti

Suite. For me, however, home is above the ocean; my overwater Sea Villa juts out over an emerald-green sea. Set on stilts above the water’s ebb and flow, the Straits of Malacca stretch out before me. I sip a cool drink and watch the light slowly fade over this most majestic of settings, doubting I can find a more tranquil place to be. Like Pavarotti before me, I am entranced.

Uninterrupted blissThe Sea Villa is the perfect retreat from civilisation. I throw open the windows to enjoy the airy bedroom, private balcony and oversized bath opening onto the sea. I am disconnected from the modern world, with neither screen nor Wi-Fi to intrude upon my solitude, and I am finally allowed to completely dissolve into my natural surroundings. It is so

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easy to linger, to drift away with a good book, and I did just that for hours, the rustle of leaves and the ebbing of waves the only soundtrack.

And yet I am eventually lured away by the aromas of exotic foods emanating from the island’s six restaurants, the need to indulge at one of the world’s lushest spas, and to explore this wonderful canopy of nature around me.

Firstly, the dining. It is a culinary adventure for sure, offering a choice

between Feast Village’s Asian fusion cuisine, where the local flavours are melded with those of the west to create some exceptionally unique tastes, or fine dining at Fisherman Cove, feasting on a grilled seafood platter fit for a king, with local fish, calamari, prawns and lobster.

At Uncle Lim’s Kitchen, set spectacularly atop a rocky outcrop overlooking the sea, I try traditional Chinese-style Nyonya and Hock Chew

01 Pangkor Laut’s pool at the spa village02 The lobby leading to Feast Village03 Views from the over-water bungalow04 A bath with the best view ever

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private dining experience on the beach at Emerald Bay, served by Darwin, our personal waiter for the evening.

A real highlight is the chef’s kitchen experience. Our expert guide Amir whisks us away to nearby Pangkor Island on a speed boat to explore the busy local markets. The streets are lined with tanks of live fish, stalls of dried seafood and seasoned hands nimbly making fresh noodles. I ‘catch’ a fish from the floating fish farm before jetting back to the resort for a rejuvenating 45-minute Bath House ritual. Now that I’ve freshened up, I am reunited with my fresh fish back at the

restaurant. Using an array of spices, such as coriander and ginger, we create our own dish packed with tropical flavours.

My nature walks could not have ended at a more stunning location than the pristine white sands of Emerald Bay. Led by my local guide, Yip, the very essence of a Malaysian gentleman, we explore the rainforest through heavily canopied tracks. On the way we discover a thriving ecosystem; delicate orchids, towering fig trees, monitor lizards, sea eagles, herons and the rare Asian blue fairy bird.

Natural wonders After such an invigorating natural experience, it is time to invigorate my mind and body at the renowned Spa Village Pangkor Laut. Spread over 1.6 hectares and surrounded by sea and rainforest, it is a true respite and a much-needed oasis of tranquillity.

There are eight treatment pavilions, a deluxe Belian Treatment Pavilion, three Healing Huts, two Bath Houses, a 50-metre infinity pool, courtyards, lotus ponds and ‘nap’ gazebos – in all, a unique peaceful retreat delightfully far from the real world.

I go all out. Starting with a heavenly 80-minute shiatsu massage, I continue my pampering with a yoghurt and spice Thai herbal scrub, then steaming herbal pouches to the back and finally a herbal wrap to detoxify and moisturise the body. I feel the tension drift away and I walk, or should I say float, out without a care in the world.

I have one final destination on my visit. Sampling the delights of the recently opened MUSE Pangkor Laut Estates is a step into extreme luxury for those

“IT IS NATURE GIVEN A FLOURISHING FREE REIGN AND YOU FEEL IT THE MOMENT YOU ARRIVE.”

(Fuzhou) dishes, infusing local and Chinese herbs and spices. While at the Jamu Bar, located in the tranquil spa village, I dine on an exquisite sushi platter with spectacular surroundings. But whatever your tastes and whichever flavours entice you, the chefs will create a culinary adventure of your very own.

Sunset is a special time of day at Pangkor Laut. While aboard the resort’s teakwood oriental junk, a glass of wine in hand, I spot the island’s beautiful hornbills gliding over the still evening water. Another extraordinary sunset sees us devouring a five-course meal in a

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who demand the very best. This is one of the world’s most private top-end retreats where guests are treated like royalty (and many are). Each of the eight estates is a sumptuous complex of private pool villas hidden behind magnificent stone walls. There are outdoor baths with spectacular views, dedicated pavilions for dining, living and resting with pools, bridges, towering plants and lavish gardens all interwoven with the surrounding ancient jungle. Butlers and chefs are on call at all hours and a helicopter transports guests in comfort to and from the mainland. It is an exclusive escape for the rich and famous — including the likes of Sting, Tony Blair and Keira Knightley — where six-star privacy is guaranteed.

Travel fileAccommodationwww.pangkorlautresort.com

Getting there Flights land in Kuala Lumpur International Airport. Transfers from here by private car and boat can be made with the resort.www.malaysiaairlines.com

Helicopter transfers are also available.

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ARABIAN JEWELAncient Jordan holds extraordinary treasures for travellers

seeking an experience like no other. Joanna Tovia uncovers the highlights of this desert oasis... in absolute luxury, of course.

Beautiful Jordan is surrounded by nations making headlines for all the wrong reasons: Syria, Israel, the West Bank, Egypt, Iraq

and Saudi Arabia. Despite the troubles plaguing many of its neighbours, Jordan is a safe destination for those wanting to explore an ancient land in style.

Amman is the perfect introduction to this amazing country and evidence of its long history is everywhere – Jordan has an astounding 4800 archaeological sites. The Amman Archaeological Museum houses artefacts dating back from the Palaeolithic period more than 10,000 years ago and the panoramic views of limestone dwellings crowding the hillsides from its spot on top of Citadel Hill are fabulous.

For a taste of everyday life, mix with the locals at the souk (market). This is the place to shop for silver jewellery and local wares, and the pushiest the storekeepers get is to smile warmly

and say in a quiet voice: “Welcome.” A favourite market sweet treat among locals is Knafeh, made with sheep and goat cheese, cracked wheat, a sprinkle of pistachios and sugar syrup. I follow the locals’ lead and devour it on the spot.

Sufra Restaurant, in the heart of the Old City, is a must for lunch or dinner. Set in the former living room of a grand mansion, our table is soon laden with mouth-watering traditional fare – hommus, baba ghanouj, flatbread and salads, followed by slow-baked meat, chicken and rice dishes.

The InterContinental Amman is a great central base with attentive staff and grand surrounds.

Petra boundPalatial homes in walled compounds punctuate the vast stretches of desert landscape on the drive out of Amman. Bedouins, the once nomadic

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sits at the entrance to the 2000-year-old Lost City, the indisputed crown jewel of Jordan. This hotel’s pool and spa provide the perfect tonic for tired feet after a day exploring Petra’s archaeological wonder.

The Lost City, or Rose Red City, is a jaw-dropping treasure to be savoured over at least two days. Take your time making your way past ancient tombs, carvings and statues, through the narrow siq to The Treasury. This magnificent, towering façade carved into the rockface is mesmerising, and the Bedouins offering camel rides, selling trinkets and making cups of tea just add to the atmosphere. I spend the day grinning from ear to ear.

If you’re feeling fit, walk 40 minutes beyond The Treasury to the majestic Monastery – there are 850 steps to climb but the rewards are well worth it.

Local know-howJordan’s customs are part of what makes a visit to this country so interesting. Arranged marriages are still the norm, religious observance is strong (hearing the call to prayer from the mosques five times a day is quite lovely), and the vast majority of women wear hijab. Jordanians are tolerant of other religions and cultures, however, so if you dress modestly, you won’t attract attention.

Many men wear the traditional Arabian dress – the ankle-length thawb (robe) and keffiyeh (headdress). About 90 per cent of Jordanians are Muslim and alcohol is forbidden by Islamic law, so social gatherings are filled with food, talk and music rather than drinking. Alcohol is, however, available at some restaurants and hotels for tourists.

“THE DEAD SEA MAY BE AT THE LOWEST POINT ON EARTH BUT IT’S SURE TO BE ONE OF THE HIGH POINTS OF YOUR TRIP TO JORDAN.”

desert dwellers, have suddenly found themselves rich beyond their wildest dreams – land granted 70 years ago to encourage them to settle down and build the economy is now worth millions in and around Amman. Travel further out of Amman, however, and low-lying Bedouin tents of goat hair in impossibly barren surrounds become the norm.

On the way to Petra, Jordan’s absolute must-see attraction, stop off at Mount Nebo where Moses was said to look over the Promised Land, and drive on to the city of Madaba, famous for its mosaics and sixth-century map, housed in an old church. When hunger strikes, head next door. The outdoor terrace of Haret Jdoudna is a delightful, relaxing place to devour delectable dishes. From there, it’s a three-hour drive to Petra.

The charming Mövenpick Resort Petra

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01 Colourful local costumes02 Petra’s majestic Treasury03 The Monastery at Petra04 Petra’s narrow siq leads through ancient history05 The Mövenpick Resort06 Kempsinski Hotel Ishtar’s infinity pool07 The must-visit Dead Sea

Wearing a swimsuit at any of Jordan’s beaches on the Red Sea is fine but if you feel self-conscious lying on the beach alongside women clad in black from head to toe, many resorts have a private beach. The InterContinental Resort Aqaba has a 300-metre stretch of white sandy beach with sunbeds alongside the hotel’s freeform pool. Its InterFit spa will lull you into relaxation mode with treatments using Dead Sea minerals.

Dead Sea dreamThose health-giving minerals are yours in abundance at the Dead Sea itself, along with air that’s rich in oxygen. The Dead Sea may be at the lowest point on Earth but it’s sure to be one of the high points of your trip to Jordan. Covering yourself with black mud before floating in the super-saline water is an astonishing

experience that will have you laughing out loud... and your nourished skin will feel amazing.

The Kempinski Hotel Ishtar Dead Sea is an uber-stylish resort with direct access to the Dead Sea’s balmy and buoyant waters. The hotel’s Anantara Spa – one of the largest in the Middle East – is an utterly tranquil escape with natural Dead Sea water pools, Moroccan Hammam, and range of rejuvenating treatments.

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Travel fileAccommodationwww.moevenpick-hotels.com www.kempinski.comwww.intercontinental.com

Getting there Etihad flies from Australia to Queen Alia Airport in Amman via Abu Dhabi.www.etihad.com

Other infowww.visitjordan.com

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01 Don’t be surprised if a wild animal wanders into view02 Local Maasai work at the camp03 Mahali Mzuri’s sunbathing pool04 Wildlife abounds in the area

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ON SAFARI WITH RICHARD

Richard Branson’s boutique luxury safari camp in Kenya is a unique retreat for discerning travellers seeking the experience of a lifetime, writes

Joanna Tovia, and the camp’s heartfelt philosophy of empowerment and conservation makes this adventure one to feel good about.

When Sir Richard Branson decides to do something, he doesn’t do it in half measures. His latest

venture, inspired by his love of the African people, land and wildlife, is the seventh addition to the Virgin Limited Edition collection of luxury retreats around the world. The collection is eclectic – there’s a lodge in Switzerland, a 32-metre catamaran in the Caribbean, and a retreat in the Atlas Mountains of Morocco – but all have the same aim: to create amazing guest experiences.

The newly opened Mahali Mzuri safari camp caters for a maximum 24 guests at a time in 12 tented suites with sweeping vistas of the stunning natural landscape – just don’t be surprised if a wild animal wanders into view. Being close to the action is only part of the appeal of staying here though. What usually makes the difference between a good and great travel experience is the people, and this is one reason why Mahali Mzuri is making a lasting impression on its very first guests.

The local Maasai working at the camp are justifiably proud of the new venture and are in full welcome mode as a result. Branson has had a long relationship with the local people of the area. In 2007, he was bestowed with a traditional honour in return for bringing prosperity to the land – he was made a Maasai Elder.

Branson’s investment has helped expand the protected area in the Olare Motorogi Conservancy, one of four established conservancies covering 63,000 hectares in the Greater Maasai Mara ecosystem. These conservancies have extended the protected land of migrating wildlife by 50 per cent beyond the Maasai Mara National Reserve border. More than 1500 Maasai families are directly supported by the move; it’s no wonder they are so happy to see guests from around the world arriving to share the beauty of the land they know as home.

Any time is a good time to travel to this extraordinary camp, but if you hope to witness the Great Wildebeest Migration, plan to go between July and September. An amazing two million animals make their way from the Serengeti National Park in Tanzania to the Maasai Mara National Reserve in Kenya during this time. The wildebeest are accompanied by zebra, gazelle and eland. A staged performance this is not – it is nature at its most natural, with lions, crocodiles, leopards and other predators greeting the migration with hungry delight. The migrants’ mission? To survive long enough to reach the bounty of food and water on offer at Maasai Mara. These majestic creatures depart for the exhausting 1600-kilometre journey back to the Serengeti from November.

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Adventure boundOn a game drive from the Mahali Mzuri camp, expect to see buffalo, topi, hippo, warthogs and hyenas and possibly elephants, zebra, lions, leopards, cheetah, giraffe, impala and gazelles. Twice-daily game drives in open vehicles venture into neighbouring conservancies, with hot water bottles and blankets provided to counter the chilly early morning departures.

There are opportunities to learn about the local culture, too. A 10-minute drive will take you to a nearby mud hut village, where you can help milk the cows, meet families and experience the traditional customs of the local Maasai Tribe. The children love including guests in their games so don’t be alarmed when suddenly you’re the star player in a game of soccer – complete with homemade ball.

Walking safaris can be arranged, as can hot air balloon rides over the local area.

All that activity is bound to make you hungry. Fortunately, food takes centre stage whenever you want it to, with all food and drink included in your stay. Using local produce, spices and recipes, dining here is something special. You might eat in the main dining tent one night, and the next find yourself out in the bush for a barbecue. Languid Champagne picnics, sundowner drinks,

Travel fileAccommodationwww.mahalimzuri.virgin.com

Getting there International flights to Nairobi’s Jomo Kenyatta Airport. Transfer to Nairobi’s Wilson Airport for Safarilink’s shuttles to Mara North where Mahali Mzuri staff will meet you. www.airkenya.com www.flysafarilink.com

Other infowww.magicalkenya.com

and romantic dinners for two are all part of the experience.

The only thing that could make this place better is a swimming pool and spa, but of course the camp has those bases covered too. Using ethical local skincare products from Africology, the blissful Nasaro spa treatments are all the more relaxing for the location in which they are carried out – near the valley floor in a supremely quiet and private setting overlooking the bush.

When sleep beckons, retire to your tent safe in the knowledge that the day ahead is sure to be just as memorable as the one to which you’ve just bid goodnight. Each beautifully appointed tent is perched on a raised platform overlooking the countryside and has a spacious bedroom, along with a sitting area and large viewing deck.

“WHEN SIR RICHARD BRANSON DECIDES TO DO SOMETHING, HE DOESN’T DO IT IN HALF MEASURES.”

05 Game drives never disappoint06 Vibrant sunsets07-09 The wild locals10 Room with a view

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PUERTO RICO

CUBA

DOMINICAN REBUBLIC

FLORIDA

PERFECTLY PUERTO RICOPuerto Rico is no longer just a beach destination for Americans. Its wealth of high-end accommodation and fascinating history has put it squarely on the map as a luxury getaway, writes Damon M. Banks.

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Always a favourite island getaway for Americans, Puerto Rico has a lot to offer; beaches and sunshine, certainly, but

for those looking for a little bit more, there are the historic streets of San Juan to explore, the deliciously complex spicy culinary creations to indulge in, the championship golf courses to tee up on, and the wilds of the rainforest to explore. It is an ideal island getaway where visitors can enjoy several different locales, exclusive resorts and varied local cultures specific to each region.

El San Juan Resort and CasinoSan Juan

While many arrive in San Juan only to leave immediately en route to their final destination, the city is actually an ideal place to spend a few nights becoming acquainted with Puerto Rico, while having endless possibilities to explore the gambling scene, or simply find complete bliss being pampered from head to toe in the spas. Though a number of options exist, El San Juan Resort & Casino is the perfect solution. After 25 years as one of the foremost luxury properties and entertainment venues in Puerto Rico, El San Juan Resort & Casino, A Hilton Hotel, reveals refreshed accommodations, a revamped fantasy pool, a corporate lounge, new fitness centre and the first Caribbean outpost of the famed Meat Market Miami restaurant.

The hotel has a variety of room types, which are not over the top luxurious, but clean and certainly in a premium class for the Caribbean. For families, the property offers an ideal two-bedroom suite; and for the individual or couple just wanting an extensive one-bedroom with premium surroundings, the Ocean View Tower Suite will not disappoint.

To compliment the impressive guest services and the on-site casino, the pool and beach club provide a youthful luxury destination for hours of enjoyment. For the ultimate pool experience, a cabana rental is a must; providing up to 10 people a fantastic retreat for the day, complete with a concierge, refreshments, flat screen television and high-speed Wi-Fi.

Edouard de Paris Spa is a heavenly escape, possessing an endless amount of treatments customised to precise specifications. Several favourites include the mojito massage with peppermint and lime essential oils, and the four-hand massage for the ultimate therapeutic nirvana.

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The St. RegisBahia Beach

Leaving the excitement of San Juan, Bahia Beach will seem a little too quiet when first arriving, but within a few hours this peace and solitude will be much appreciated. Nestled between the flourishing national forest and the sparkling beaches, the St. Regis Bahia Beach Resort is the former setting of the quintessential Caribbean coconut plantation, as well as the first and only Gold-certified Audubon Signature Sanctuary in Puerto Rico.

The magnificent resort offers St. Regis’ legendary Butler Service and features a 930-square-metre Remede Spa, ocean-front golf course designed by Robert Trent Jones Jr. and the Jean-Georges Vongerichten restaurant, Fern.

Remede Spa is a serene retreat where nature blends with the traditional spa experience, beginning with a floating pathway delivering guests to seven secluded massage villas. A new favourite offering is the Spa Without Walls, which allows guests to choose their spa location from almost anywhere on the more than 160-hectare property.

The dramatic Bahia Beach golf course overlooks the Atlantic Ocean, 32 hectares of saltwater lagoons, a 3km beach, a native maritime forest and the mountainous rainforest on Puerto Rico’s only AAA Five Diamond property.

Exclusively developed by celebrated chef Jean-Georges, Fern’s contemporary American menu with global influences showcases a blend of Jean-Georges’ world-renowned repertoire of distinctive dishes with traditional Puerto Rican ingredients such as papaya, mango, and coconut. With a dedication to providing the freshest ingredients available, many of the fruits, vegetables, herbs, and spices are grown from the dual-system hydroponic and raised-bed garden found in the resort’s own plant nursery.

El Conquistador ResortFajardo

Travelling further east to Fajardo lies not only the largest marina in the Caribbean, but also arguably one of the most luxurious resorts in Puerto Rico, The El Conquistador Resort by Waldorf Astoria. Divided into five distinct villages, this property has something to offer everyone fortunate enough to visit.

Many guests enjoy the waterpark and private marina in La Marina Village, but a more exclusive favourite is Las Casitas, an enclave of private villas that enjoy some of the best ocean views on the island, fully equipped kitchens and personalised butler service.

Guests are able to escape to Palomino Island, the resort’s 40-hectare unspoilt

private island where they can enjoy snorkelling, sip piña coladas and savour the ultimate serenity. Chops Steakhouse offers private dining rooms, while the freshest sushi delicacies can be enjoyed at Blossoms. The resort’s Arthur Hills Golf Course will challenge even the best golfers with its dynamic design and compelling views of the majestic El Yunque Rainforest and the ocean.

The beautiful 2400-square-metre spa has an extensive list of treatments, but a favourite is the Caribbean Escape. As an added bonus for families, the Ki’ children’s spa program is designed to introduce healthy living practices and spa services to the youngest guests.

01 Infinity pool at El Conquistador 02 El Conquistador Resort’s La Vista Ocean View03 Paradise at W Retreat and Spa04 St. Regis Bahia Beach

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The W Retreat & Spa Vieques Island

About 13 kilometres east of the mainland is the ecotourism destination of Vieques Island, which was inaccessible to civilians until recently. In 2003, the U.S. Navy began to depart after having control of the island for nearly 40 years. Today, most of the land has been trusted to the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service, which has resulted in simply amazing undisturbed beaches that have been featured internationally as the best in the Caribbean. While W Hotels have become synonymous with edgy and trend-setting properties, it’s the close connection the W Vieques

has with the local community and ecosystem that makes this a must-visit property when exploring Puerto Rico.

The WOW Ocean Front Retreat provides a great place to call home while a guest at the W Vieques, but with these lush surroundings, you’ll want to focus on the horseback riding, ecotours, tennis, hiking and the two private beaches, complete with Beach Ambassadors to meet your every need.

Patricia Urquiola, who skillfully weaved together natural and local elements to create a stylish and modern island oasis, designed the hotel with inspiration from the unique natural phenomena of the island, while still staying true to the contemporary style of W Hotels.

For the most exclusive dining experience on the island, take advantage of a private dinner on Paradise Edge complete with the chef’s personalised menu and fabulous wine pairings.

Don’t forget to sample the other specialised services at this property, such as the signature Café Con Coco scrub at AWAY Spa, which mixes Puerto Rican coffee and organic coconut, and the Whatever/Whenever service, where staff can transform any dream into reality for guests – as long as it’s legal.

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Travel fileAccommodationwww.elsanjuanhotel.com www.elconresort.comwww.stregisbahiabeach.com www.wvieques.com

Getting there Qantas with American Airlines flies to San Juan via Dallas. Once in Puerto Rico, car hire is available through Avis. www.americanairlines.com.au www.qantas.com.auwww.avis.com.au

Other infowww.seepuertorico.com

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IN T.O. WITH TOO MUCH TO DOCanada’s biggest city, Toronto, has blossomed into a distinctive international destination, as C. James Dale found out on a recent visit.

I’m not afraid of heights, but I may have been pushing it. The wind whipped my face and tugged tears from my eyes as I leaned out over downtown Toronto,

a rope and harness the only things preventing me from plunging 116 storeys to the streets below.

“Take a look down — that’s 356 metres you’re looking at right now,” shouted Jenny, the chipper instructor with the CN Tower’s EdgeWalk.

She was leading me and three others around the roof of the 553-metre tower’s restaurant, encouraging us to lean out frontward or backward, to trust that the safety gear would keep us from falling to our deaths. The spectacular views, which are in surplus, coaxed us along the 1.5-metre ledge. Walk to one side and you’ll see the vast blue of Lake Ontario, the Toronto Islands, and if you squint, the mists of Niagara Falls in the distance. Walk to another and there’s the spaceship-like City Hall, workplace of 2013’s most infamous mayor, Rob Ford (in case you didn’t have internet access, he’s the one who admitted to smoking crack cocaine). The rest of Toronto — its buildings, parks, streets and alleyways — is all there, spread out like an oversized toy set.

The CN Tower, a vestige of Brutalist architecture, has defined Toronto’s skyline — and spirit — for nearly four decades: proud, ambitious, over-the-top. Home to 2.6 million people (5.5 million in the Greater Toronto Area) of more than 200 distinct ethnic origins, the city is one of the most multicultural in North America. It’s Canada’s social and economic capital, home of the second biggest film festival in

the world. But only in recent years has it proven itself to be a truly international destination.

Something for everyoneYou could say Toronto has it all: a buzzing bar and restaurant scene, a vibrant arts community and seven pro-sports teams.

My journey back to the city where I once lived started at the Four Seasons. It towers over the upscale Yorkville neighbourhood, with its high-end shops, art galleries and reputable restaurants. The rooms are done up in contemporary greys and the pool and spa are a haven from the city’s bustle.

The food at Café Boulud, the Canadian outpost for Michelin-starred chef Daniel Boulud, aims to represent some of the best of his French-American cooking (pâté de campagne, steak au poivre), while also tapping into a city-wide Canadiana craze (British Columbian spring salmon and Nova Scotia lobster salad).

Food-lover’s paradiseToronto’s foodie trend has grown at such a pace that the city now has an embarrassment of gourmet riches. Boulud isn’t the only celeb chef carving out a place; David Chang, the New York-based demigod who once worked under him, opened his Momofuku complex, which houses a noodle bar and two Asian-fusion restaurants, Daishō and Shōtō. And for every Boulud and Chang, there are dozens more chefs, some well-known and some not, crafting unique culinary experiences. “Toronto is, per capita, the most ethnically diverse city on the planet,” notes food critic Joanne Kates.

Turn down almost any street and you’ll find it. One night it could be the seafood- and vegetable-focused Edulis, where staff work to tailor five- and seven-course meals to your tastes. The next it could be The Black Hoof, a haven for diners who love snout-to-tail eateries. Or why not Hopgood’s Foodliner, which oozes East Coast charm with smoked mackerel on oatcakes, Digby scallops and Cape Breton snow crab?

I lunched one afternoon at Toronto institution, Canoe. Fifty-four floors up, it’s where the ‘Masters of the Universe’ from Bay Street (Toronto’s Wall Street) congregate. Tucking into the flavourful 100km Greens salad and the delicate Great Lakes Pickerel, I enjoyed looking back and forth from the flurry of activity in the open kitchen to the calm of the seemingly boundless Lake Ontario.

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01 Luxury shopping at the Four Seasons, Toronto

02 Toronto’s Ritz-Carlton03 Royal Ontario Museum

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Later, I chatted with assistant sommelier Joe Wilcox about the domestic offerings from internationally acclaimed wineries such as Tawse in Niagara, Ontario and Painted Rock in BC’s Okanagan Valley.

“Everything that comes with local food has to come with local wine,” Wilcox noted, saying he’s been able to “renovate perceptions over the years. It’s not just a great Canadian wine, but a great wine.”

Shopping splurgeAs with restaurants, Toronto’s fashion scene has also been evolving. No, it’s not New York, Paris or Milan, but shoppers don’t lack for places to hunt. Steps from the Four Seasons you can find favourites

such as Prada and Chanel, plus the department store Holt Renfrew, which showcases all manner of luxury brands.

“We do have a great range of stores that offer a street-style aesthetic to high-end fashion,” Noreen Flanagan, the Editor-in-Chief of ELLE Canada, tells me.

Flanagan, who describes Torontonians as “stylishly understated”, knows a thing or two about shopping in this city. Her list of top picks is long, starting with an exclusive corner inside Canada’s oldest and largest department store, Hudson’s Bay.

“The Room at the Bay [has] a beautifully curated collection of the top pieces from the world’s leading designers,” Flanagan says. “A stop at the new shoe department — the largest women’s shoe store in Canada — is a must. Be prepared to splurge!”

But as Flanagan and anyone who knows Toronto understands, no shopping trip is complete without a few hours strolling

05 Toronto has a bustling art scene 06 Gooderham & Worts distillery 07 The Ritz-Carlton’s cocktail bar

“FIFTY-FOUR FLOORS UP, IT’S WHERE THE ‘MASTERS OF THE UNIVERSE’ FROM BAY STREET CONGREGATE.”

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designer boutiques, cafes, restaurants, art galleries and a beer brewery.

Soaking in the green-tea infused vitality pool inside the Ritz-Carlton, Toronto spa helped me get centred again. The must-see-it-all stress melted away as I sank into the comfy couches in the co-ed lounge, which is bathed in natural light and offers tea, snacks and enough glossy magazines to keep you reading for days.

Back en pointeIn the end, I was forced to skip sipping drinks at the hip Cocktail Bar, managed by the same folks who run The Black Hoof. Ditto the popular Bar Volo, where I’d planned to guzzle my way through a long list of craft beers. And my triumphant return to the chic bars inside the Drake Hotel and the Gladstone Hotel would have to wait for another day.

Instead, I met up with friends at Biff’s, a French-style bistro, to feast on $1 oysters. Then later, my wife and I got dressed up and headed back to the Four Seasons, this time to the Four Seasons Centre for the Performing Arts, a glass jewel box of a building that’s the sleek home of the Canadian Opera Company and the National Ballet of Canada.

We mingled among the murmuring crowd, drinks in hand, and prepared for a performance of ‘Swan Lake’. Settled into our seats and enveloped by the hardwood floors and textured walls, we watched the classic story of good and evil play out to Tchaikovsky’s sweeping score, even more moving thanks to the world-class acoustics. Even toward the back, the stage seemed so close, the dancers’ every leap and twirl appearing in sharp detail. And as we sat transfixed, the busy metropolis that is Toronto swirled around us, full of sights we’d need many more days to explore.

packed order of the legendary fries-cheese-gravy Canadian comfort food.

Relaxing at the RitzBut barely a day into my tour of Toronto, I needed a break from all the running around. Maybe I just needed to recover from the thrill of the CN Tower EdgeWalk. I’d walked among the dinosaurs and browsed relics of ancient civilizations at the Royal Ontario Museum, but still hadn’t seen the latest exhibit at the Art Gallery of Ontario, both buildings enjoying more traffic in recent years because of facelifts by famous architects (Daniel Libeskind for the ROM; Frank Gehry for the AGO). I’d managed to have coffee with a friend at the bustling St Lawrence Market, but hadn’t figured out how I was going to fit in a visit to the Distillery District, the refurbished collection of Victorian industrial buildings now home to

a part of Queen Street known as West Queen West. The strip hosts boutiques featuring creations by young designers. Two spots worth checking out are Zane (bags and accessories) and preloved (one-of-a-kind clothing made from reclaimed vintage fabrics).

Whenever I’m in the neighbourhood, which is bordered by the sprawling Trinity Bellwoods Park, I always find new places to spend time, and money. After popping into the edgy White Squirrel Coffee Shop for a cappuccino (Australians take note: they also serve flat whites), I found myself browsing the beautifully curated bookshelves at Type, where the printed word is alive and well. Nearby at The Paper Place, I picked up an irreverent card for friends who were expecting a baby (“Bring on the zombie apocalypse”). Then I slipped into The Spice Trader to grab some gifts for family before heading to Poutini’s House of Poutine for a calorie-

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Travel fileAccommodationwww.ritzcarlton.com/torontowww.fourseasons.com/toronto

Getting there Air Canada offers daily flights from Sydney to Toronto, via Vancouver. www.aircanada.com.au

Other infowww.cntower.ca www.canada.travel

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SPACE TO SPOIL YOURSELFAmy Cooper discovers that on Norfolk Island luxury comes naturally, self-catering doesn’t mean cooking for yourself and Tin Sheds can

provide the most perfect luxury.

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Up on Mount Pitt, Norfolk Island’s 320 metre-high lookout, the entire world appears to be yours. Spread at your feet is

limitless blue; 360 degrees of horizon extending beyond the island’s golden beaches and rugged cliffs into places only sailors and seabirds know.

This endless space is perhaps Norfolk’s finest luxury. The island’s position in the Pacific, 1400 km east of Australia and with the nearest land 767km to the north in New Caledonia, means that you are a dot on a speck on the map, dwarfed by nature. It’s a rare, soothing feeling.

Even at high season (November to February), the eight by five kilometre island never feels crowded. Just 1900 people live here and the total population can reach 3500 in peak tourist season. There’s enough lush forest, golden beach and dramatic cliff top for everyone.

These natural wonders have tended to be overshadowed by Norfolk’s manmade history. After two incarnations as a penal settlement, the remote island in 1856 became the adopted home of the Bounty mutineers’ families, whose direct descendants still form the core of today’s community.

Recently, though, stressed city dwellers and anyone in search of an easy, simple indulgence, are rediscovering the joys of Norfolk’s extraordinary landscape and its rich bounty. Eating, exploring and simply wandering are preferred pastimes here.

The first indication of food’s central role in Norfolk life is the spectacular kitchen at our accommodation, Apartment One at The Tin Sheds, Norfolk’s first AAA Tourism Australia accredited five-star property. A symphony of design and gadgetry, this gleaming self-catering set-up is even more enticing than the super king-size bed or the hot tub with a view.

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But here’s the best part: you don’t need to use it. The Tin Sheds are, technically, self-catering, but if that sounds far too arduous for a luxury break, fret not – no finger need be lifted here. Like me, you can marvel, then sink into a leather La-Z-Boy armchair and watch an accomplished chef come in and rustle up a feast for you.

The three apartments are designed to anticipate your every need and any remaining wishes can be granted by an attentive but discreet manager. You might perhaps make the effort to journey a few steps out your back gate to The Tin Sheds’ Pleasure Centre for an infrared sauna, an outdoor SwimSpa (hot tub with a teeny pool attached where you swim against a jet – the pool equivalent of a treadmill) or an expert massage from a local beauty therapist.

Just around the corner is the island’s hub, Burnt Pine, with pretty cafes, galleries and browse-friendly trinket

shops. Beaches and cliffs are a short drive away and I can hop into a powder blue 2013 model Fiat 500 convertible, fully insured, that comes with the apartment. There are no traffic lights on Norfolk and every passing motorist waves hello. This could be the last place on earth where driving is actually fun.

Quickly, we discover that Norfolk’s fertile land produces food bursting with flavour. “The fruit and vegetables here,” one local tells us, “taste good enough to make you weep.” She’s right. After one bite of a sweet, intense Norfolk Island tomato, it’s hard to settle for anything else.

There are more than 35 eateries on the island, each with their own take on the local bounty. Dino’s Restaurant, run by couple Helen Bartholomew and Dean Bosley, is a 1880s homestead surrounded by beautiful gardens. The menu is sourced daily from the island’s growers, fishermen and farmers.

At Two Chimneys Winery you can sample wines made on Norfolk (the 2009 Durif is an obvious standout) and feast on a platter of local produce that’s as visually stunning as it is delicious.

A uniquely Norfolk culinary experience is the cliff top fish fry — locals gather for these impromptu al fresco cook-ups at Puppy’s Point on the west coast, where the sunsets are spectacular.

Norfolk’s rich history greets you at every step. We acquire knowledge organically wandering through storied locations and chatting to locals, many of whom are directly descended from the Bounty mutineers. Our favourite historical immersion is Norfolk Island Museum, housed in the world-heritage-listed Kingston. Artefacts resonate with energy and we gaze long at the wedding ring that married all the mutineers to their Tahitian sweethearts, and chuckle at the kettle from the Bounty which was used for brewing liquor. The humble receptacle and its contents caused a booze-fuelled vision which transformed tipsy mutineer John Adams into a Christian educator and the founding father of Norfolk.

And then it’s back to The Tin Sheds to reflect upon it all while Naomi Thompson, owner of The Olive Cafe, is busy preparing a spread of the island’s delicious local produce. We’re happy relaxing with a local Shiraz and devouring fresh fish, vegies and a white chocolate and macadamia cheesecake while Naomi cleans up so it looks as if no-one’s been there.

We’re lulled to sleep by perfect silence, resting easy in the knowledge that tomorrow this island demands nothing of us but relaxation.

Travel fileAccommodationwww.tinshedsnorfolkisland.com

Getting there Air New Zealand flies to Norfolk Island from Brisbane, Sydney and Auckland.www.airnewzealand.com.au

01 Norfolk Island at its most serene02 The stunning Emily Bay03 Accommodation at The Tin Sheds is pure luxury

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Call 1300 NORFOLK to arrange your luxury island getaway!

We invite you to relax and rejuvenate at Norfolk Island’s newest five star accommodation, The Tin Sheds – Norfolk Island.

Featuring three contemporary, spacious and fully selfcontained apartments surrounded by beautifully landscaped private courtyards nestled away just a minutes’ walk from the centre of town. Coupled with intimate service, and packages tailored

to suit your travel requirements, this premium boutique-style accommodation offers you a unique personalised island experience.

For more information call +6723 50TIN,email [email protected] or visitwww.tinshedsnorfolkisland.com

THE ULTIMATE LUXURY EXPERIENCE......on Norfolk Island

THE ULTIMATE LUXURY EXPERIENCE......on Norfolk Island

For details go to www.oxleytravel.com.au

or free call 1800 671 546 - 7 days

EXCLUSIVE ALL INCLUSIVE PACKAGESFlights ex Sydney, accommodation, car hire & 7 days of amazing Norfolk experiences (tours, activities, island hosts, wining & dining)

from $2399 per person

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“CHAMPAGNE MAKES YOU FEEL LIKE IT’S SUNDAY AND BETTER DAYS ARE JUST AROUND THE CORNER.” Marlene Dietrich, German actress.

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CHAMPAGNES & CHÂTEAUXGolden bubbles and elegant stone manors sitting proudly upon sun-dappled vineyards – nothing says refinement quite like the Champagne region of France, writes Andrew Marshall.

With its regal magnificence and magical lustre, champagne evokes images of style, pleasure, elegance,

romance and celebration. According to tradition, the ingenious idea of mixing various grape varieties from the Champagne-Ardenne region in north-eastern France and sealing the lot with a cork and a wire collar to withstand the fermentation pressure came from Dom Pérignon (1638–1715), cellar master at the Benedictine Abbey of Hautvillers.

Champagne is the finest example of a ‘sparkling wine’ and traditionally made using a blend of three varieties of grapes: Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. Once the juice is extracted, champagne undergoes two fermentation processes, first in casks and the second after the wine has been bottled and had sugar and yeast added. This allows the carbon dioxide to get trapped in the wine, giving rise to those famous and distinctive bubbles.

An excellent way to learn more about the champagne-making process is to explore the signposted roads that make up the Route Touristique du Champagne (Champagne Tourist Route), 600km in total, divided into various circuits that meander through the region’s principal wine-growing areas including Montagne de Reims, between the two champagne centres of Reims and Épernay, Côte des Blancs, south of Épernay and further south, the Côte des Bar, specialising in smaller producteurs (champagne producers) that welcome thirsty travellers.

Land of liquid goldIt’s the last week in September and harvest time in the Côte des Bar. Driving along the Route Touristique du Champagne through grape country is pure pleasure; beautiful vistas abound, with each view better than the last. In between picturesque villages, neatly tended vines cover the hillsides and colourful grape-pickers dot the slopes. A heady sweet aroma fills the air, and every second vehicle seems to be a tractor pulling a trailer load of the precious fruit.

In the village of Urville we visit Champagne Drappier, a family of sparkling wine producers who’ve been cultivating their vineyards for over two centuries. Michel Drappier, the current and passionate House Director, controls the winemaking process, while his father André, with a lifetime of harvest experience behind him, keeps a watchful eye on proceedings. Drappier produces around 1.5 million bottles a year, distributed worldwide to 90 countries, and over the years their superb champagnes have seduced a number of prestigious personalities including Charles de Gaulle and Luciano Pavarotti.

“The House of Drappier has a range of bottle sizes in its portfolio, including the giant Melchizedek, unique in the champagne world,” says Michel Drappier from inside the salon with its beautiful fireplace and superb wooden detailing. With a record content of 30 litres, weighing 58kg and costing about €3,800 (AU$5880), this is a rare bottle indeed, and only a few are purchased every year.

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Much more affordable is the better-known Magnum which is two standard bottles, and “just right for a romantic interlude, or as we say in France, a tête-à-tête,” says Michel with a knowing smile.

Once occupied by Cistercian monks from Clairvaux Abbey, the seat of the Drappier House includes some magnificent 12th-century vaulted cellars (or caves). Here, gently aging in racks are the cuvées speciales as well as the company’s great pride with names like Balthazar (12 litres), Nabuchodonosor (15 litres), Salomon (18 litres), and Melchizedek, the granddaddy of them all. “Come and see us again sometime. We’ve been here for 850 years so won’t be moving in a hurry,” says

Michel, as we say our goodbyes and drive towards historic Troyes, noted for its fine collection of medieval and Renaissance half-timbered houses, and finally our bed for the night at the Château d’Etoges, situated in the small village of the same name, surrounded by vineyards.

Fit for a kingBuilt at the beginning of the 17th century, the Château d’Etoges was once a privileged place where the Kings of France enjoyed staying when on their way to the east, and Louis XIV himself greatly admired the beauty of the château’s garden, fountains and ponds.

Overlooking a quintessential moat, this beautifully renovated château has 20 individually appointed bedrooms furnished with genuine antiques and tapestries. Downstairs, an imposing fireplace bears witness to banquets, meetings and celebrations from a medieval past. Classy French cuisine (with a good selection of wines and of course champagnes) is served in the adjoining L’Orangerie dining room, and after a tasty

dinner it’s only a minor stumble to the comfortable four-poster beds.

Staying at one of the 150 historic châteaux or manor houses is an excellent way to complement a visit to the region and goes hand-in-hand with the champagne lifestyle. A Stand-out amid the huge selection is Les Crayères, nestled in the heart of Reims, and boasting the most regal of settings in which to enjoy your champagne, the Bar Terrasse. If you like some golf with your bubbles, try Golf De Reims — its putting green is unmissable for lovers of the game.

A short drive north from Château d’Etoges is the provincial town of Épernay, home to Moët & Chandon, De Castellane and Mercier, the most popular brand in France — and the best place for champagne tasting. Underneath the streets of the ‘capital of bubbly’, in some 100km of subterranean cellars, millions of dusty bottles of sparkling wine are maturing side-by-side.

In nearby Rue Gambetta, at the cool sophisticated bar and cellar combo of C. Comme Champagne, we sink into a

01 Bar Terrasse at Les Crayères02 The magical Le Château d’Etoges

03 Guests sleep sumptuously at Les Crayères04 Putting green in front of Château Des Dames De

France at Golf De Reims05 A glass of the good stuff at Château d’Etoges

couple of red leather armchairs to sample some champagne by the glass.

Next, it’s a 6km drive north to Hautvillers, where Dom Pérignon first created champagne three centuries ago. Hautvillers translates as ‘high place’, and it’s one of those picture-perfect French villages with a bar, church and a few pretty houses.

Treetop champagneSituated in the wooded hills around Verzy, north-east of Hautvillers, is a totally new concept in enjoying champagne. A 10-minute walk through the forest is Le Perching Bar — the world’s first champagne bar in the trees. The bar sits on a wooden platform supported by six-metre-high stilts, accessed by boardwalks suspended between the trees.

Cool sounds emanate from the speakers, several local champagnes are on offer and the views are exceptional. There are even future plans to create sleeping pods.

From Verzy, it’s only a flute or two of bubbly to Reims, home to some prestigious producers such as

“REMEMBER, GENTLEMEN, IT’S NOT JUST FRANCE WE ARE FIGHTING FOR, IT’S CHAMPAGNE.” Winston Churchill.

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G.H.Mumm, Taittinger, Pommery and Louis Roederer. Founded in 1776, Louis Roederer, producers of the iconic Cristal champagne, is one of the last major Champagne Houses to remain an independent family affair. In 1876, upon the request of Tsar Alexander II, Cristal was created in bottles made of transparent crystal glass with a flat bottom, making them easily identifiable.

For more than a century, the appearance of the patented Cristal bottle has remained unique and unchanged … and much imitated. Characterised by its great finesse and elegance (a high proportion of

Chardonnay), its delicate bouquet and its perfect balance, Cristal is highly prized by connoisseurs.

We spend our last night at Château de Montaubois, a beautiful 18th-century building set in four hectares of parkland in Signy-l’Abbaye, north-east of Reims. The owners Jean-François Monteil and his wife Elizabeth have spent nearly three decades renovating the château with original features and period furniture. They now offer Bed & Breakfast accommodation with five sumptuous rooms available to guests. It’s a fitting finale to our visit to France’s Champagne-Ardenne region.

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Travel fileAccommodationwww.etoges.com www.chateaudemontaubois.comwww.lescrayeres.com www.golf-de-reims.com

Getting there Air France flies to Charles de Gaulle International Airport in Paris, which is then 30 minutes by TGV to Reims. www.airfrance.com/au www.tgv.com/en

Other infowww.tourisme-en-champagne.co.uk

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Air France Ad.indd 1 20/02/2014 9:27:47 AM

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SIGNATURE TRAINS PLANES

BOATS AUTOMOBILESZambezi Queen Star Flyer Alaskan Un-Cruising Australia by private jet

Luxury rail journeys Rolls-Royce Wraith Bugatti Legend Highflyer

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An alternative to lodge-based safaris, the luxurious five-star Zambezi Queen is a floating palace set adrift on the wild and untamed Chobe River; a place where elephants cause traffic jams and hippos serenade, discovers Dale R Morris.

AFRICAN QUEEN

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Trumpeting like a brass orchestra, a herd of some 30 or more rambunctious elephants trample their way down to the banks of

the great Chobe River for their mid-afternoon splash about. It is a beautiful scene, if not somewhat noisy.

The young ones stomp and roll around in the shallows like children; adolescent males play at sparring; elders ease themselves into the depths to soak sore feet and escape the African sun. The ‘normal’ serenity that is the Chobe (gently flowing water, fluttering dragonflies and stalking storks) is plunged into chaos as mud flies and the silence is shattered.

“This is the highlight of an elephant’s day,” my guide informs me as we watch the exciting scene unfold from the safety of our open-sided safari vehicle. “It’s a time to relax and play.”

We are parked mere metres away from the beasts, in the magnificent Chobe National Park in Northern Botswana. On the other side, across a swath of swaying reeds and silver water lies Namibia, and to the north and north-east, Zimbabwe and Zambia are but a stone’s skim away.

The confluence of the Chobe and Zambezi rivers are at a great African crossroads where residents of small towns such as Kasane and Kazangula share their high streets with safari

tourists, warthogs and huge elephants. The park itself, in Botswana, is a huge

11,700-square-kilometre wilderness where the densest population of pachyderms in the world are known to gather. “We reckon there are around 120,000 in the park,” says my guide, “and most of them end up here on the banks of the river in the driest months.”

It isn’t dry at all when I visit; there are water and rainclouds and greenery all over. Yet still, the numbers of elephants I have so far seen is staggering. Wherever I turn my head there are titans with tusks and trumpeting trunks. “You should come back again when the river is low,” says my guide. “Sometimes there are so many elephants clogging up the water we can’t get the Zambezi Queen past them.”

All aboard An African safari is an experience to remember forever. You typically stay in a lodge or camp deep in the African bush, and from there take early-morning and late-afternoon excursions by vehicle or on foot in search of untamed beasties. But I’m not staying in a typical lodge. My accommodation, the Zambezi Queen, is an ultra-modern, five-star boat with all the trimmings including beautiful rooms, highly trained wildlife guides, fine wines, deliciously good food and exemplary service.

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Designed with the beauty of the river in mind, most of the onboard space is open and airy and affords commanding views of both river and wildlife. The 14 cabins have sliding blinds and meshed screens so you can watch the river drift by from the comfort of your bed.

On my first day aboard, I sit down to a snack of fresh fruits and sparkling wine, and am just about to tuck in when the captain announces that elephants and hippos are to delay us for a while. The other guests and I abandon our food in favour of gathering at the bow where we are treated to a spectacle that is to become commonplace over the next three days (the typical duration of a stay).

A narrow reedy island in the middle of the river has attracted dozens of holidaying elephants. The peripheral shallows are occupied by noisy hippos and crocodiles, whilst the grass verges are being patrolled by all manner of herons, ducks, geese and kingfishers. In a copse of trees upon the far bank, a troop of baboons shouts warning barks in response to the distant thundering of a pair of unseen lions. A beautiful scene indeed.

Lions and tigersJust like a traditional safari lodge, the Zambezi Queen offers all manner of side excursions, ranging from jeep trips into the park to boat outings to local villages where tribes teach you drumming skills.

The most enjoyable of these forays for me is an expedition by smaller boat into the winding papyrus and reed channels that meander for miles. Here we encounter partially submerged fields of flowers amongst which African Jacana birds tip-toe atop a floating mat of lily pads. More than 400 bird species have been recorded in the area, making the Chobe River a birder’s hot spot.

We also encounter hippos (always an exciting event when you are in a small

boat), crocodiles (ditto), fish, eagles, monkeys and, of course, the ubiquitous elephants. Again, we hear the distant sound of roaring lions.

The following morning, after a buffet breakfast and yet more sightings of elephants taking a swim, I venture once again by small boat into the river’s winding channels, only this time it is tigers (not lions) that we seek.

Tigerfish, although not tasty (too many bones), have a reputation for putting up a good fight, but alas I never get to test my mettle — I cast my lure only to succeed in bagging a jumble of lily roots.

Despite my lack of fishing prowess, I enjoy every minute afloat the wild Chobe River — as the folk song goes, ‘With the wind in your face, there is no finer place, than messing about on a river.’

“WHEREVER I TURN MY HEAD THERE ARE TITANS WITH TUSKS AND TRUMPETING TRUNKS.”

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Travel fileAccommodationwww.zambeziqueen.com

Getting there South African Airways flies to Kasane International Airport in Botswana via Johannesburg. Transfers from here can be organised through the Zambezi Queen.www.flysaa.com/au www.airbotswana.co.bw

Other infowww.botswanatourism.co.bw

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01 Onboard luxury abounds 02 Zambezi Queen serenity

03 — 06 The wildlife is abundant along the banks of the Chobe River07 Cabins can be open to allow an uninterrupted view of the river

08 Delicious dining

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CALL OF THE WILD

Escape the world and breathe free. Nick Constance finds himself at sea on an exciting Star Flyer voyage.

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Built in 1991, Star Flyer is powered by 3300 square metres of sail from four masts, with a diesel engine in reserve for those doldrum days of little or no wind. Apparently, her 69-metre mast is one of the world’s tallest. These ships offer a pure sailing experience, with the opportunity to mix with passengers from many lands and of varied ages. Those seeking glitzy nightlife, guest lecturers, a casino or glass elevators are advised to look elsewhere. This is a place for like-minded spirits, and each time a shout goes up for ‘help’ hoisting the sails there’s never a shortage of volunteers. Teamwork makes the dream work, an’ all that.

Sailing the high seasStar Flyer is certainly unique. Where else would you find a German captain (Klaus Müller) playing Scottish bagpipes on deck as the sun dips behind the Rif Mountains of Tangier? Life on board is like an old black-and-white film at times and the trip is much more adventurous and convivial

Sailing on one of Star Clippers’ graceful tall ships conjures up images of excitement and mystery, of seafaring legends and long

voyages to far-off exotic lands. Styled on the tea clippers of the 19th century that literally ‘clipped’ the waves as they plied the oceans, Star Clippers’ three tall ships today offer an exclusive and exhilarating cruise experience.

I’m very enthusiastic about joining the voyage aboard Star Flyer. It starts in the Spanish port of Málaga and journeys through the ever-so-mysterious Casablanca, unveils the intrigue of Tangier, and sails back to Málaga through Gibraltar and Motril.

than I imagined. My fellow ‘sailors’ range in age from their 30s to 70-somethings, but everybody mingles warmly. Most are up for taking on energetic pursuits like climbing the rigging. In fact, scampering up the mast is a hoot — what a buzz, what a view — adventure on the high seas!

I’m here to sail but not to hang on for dear life — 20 knots top speed at full sail is pretty good and it feels great, windswept, salty and boundless.

Being on my own might have been a disaster, but not once have I felt odd or awkward. On the contrary, people go out of their way to invite me in … whether it’s joining them for breakfast or tagging along with a group heading ashore. Equally, when I disappear for a quiet moment, nobody bothers me. It’s total bliss.

There’s no doubt that Star Flyer is a class act, oozing romance from every sail and each piece of wood. In size and materials, she’s a close portrayal of the original tall ships of the 19th century. Another great

“TALL SHIPS CONJURE UP IMAGES OF LONG VOYAGES TO FAR-OFF, EXOTIC LANDS.”

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touch is that, when sails are hoisted, the soundtrack from the film ‘Conquest of Paradise’ by Greek composer Vangelis is blasted from topside speakers. A cheesy trick, you might think, but not so. Everybody loves it, we all smile, and the positive energy is contagious.

Living it upIt’s now Friday and the week wraps up nicely when I come across something of interest. We’re docked at the coastal town of Motril, 95km east of Málaga. Whilst strolling to the beach, I notice a large hangar-style building with the word Tropicopter emblazoned across the roof. With further investigation I discover it’s a company offering helicopter rides. So, with a devil-may-care recklessness that

01 The Star Flyer’s crew at their posts 02 At full sail

03 Five-star dining04 The food is miraculous

surprises even me, I find myself booked on a chopper ride around the bay.

Once strapped in, Marc the pilot pushes all the requisite buttons and fires up the rotor blades. I’m now at the no-turning-back point. Three… five… 30 metres off the ground and the sensation of rising vertically is unnerving. Once we’re moving forward I’m more relaxed.

Before long, we’re flying high above Salobreña, a whitewashed township clinging to a huge lump of rock topped by a Moorish castle and surrounded by lush sugar cane plantations.

The flight is not bumpy, not rocky, not stomach-churning in the slightest. In fact, it’s a smoother ride than a brand-new car. And why wouldn’t it be? There are no potholes in the sky. It feels outrageously

glamorous as we swoop down for the landing. I can now see my shipmates waving from the deck. Perhaps this is how it feels arriving for a concert or a glitzy wedding.

This whole week has been a majestic romp, though what the International Stress Management Association would make of the helicopter ride or my scamper up the rigging is anybody’s guess.

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Travel fileAccommodationwww.starclippers.com

Other infowww.tropicopter.es/en

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GOLD-PLATED CRUISEThe remote scenery and rugged wildlife of the Alaskan Inside Passage is un-constrained, un-conquerable and un-tameable, so one of the best ways to fully absorb its enormity is aboard an Un-Cruise, discovers Jocelyn Pride.

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It’s almost like watching ballet. A circle of bubbles froths on the surface of the glassy water and gulls hover expectantly in the stillness above. In

one coordinated miracle of nature the eight humpback whales, mouths agape, rise majestically sending a kaleidoscope of spray and herring whooshing into the air. Even in the nutrient-rich waters of the Alaskan Inside Passage bubble net feeding is a rare sight — and I’m in the box seat.

Un-Cruise Adventures are the maestros of Alaska and the SS Legacy is the latest addition to an eight-strong fleet. Small in size, big on life-changing experiences, their motto is simple – unrushed, uncrowded and unbelievable.

As a replica steamer, the 88-berth SS Legacy also brings another dimension to cruising the waterways of this glacial corner of the world. As a first for Alaska, this heritage cruise re-lives the golden days of the 1890s.

Klondike Gold Rush“Put down your cards,” shouts Sergeant William Sharpe bursting through the swinging wooden doors of the Pesky Barnacle saloon, his white- gloved hand resting on the gun holster of his Canadian ‘Mountie’ uniform. His boots snap the wooden floor as he searches the small atmospheric lounge where an elk antler chandelier hangs from the hewn-beamed tin ceiling. Sepia photographs, kerosene lamps, wooden snowshoes and gold pans line the wall and guests serve themselves top-shelf whisky or beer in turquoise jugs.

This is just one of the many vignettes designed to bring the rich history of the Klondike Gold Rush to life. Professional actors appear spontaneously, taking on the persona of historic characters and interacting with guests.

Ship to shoreRe-living history continues on land. In Skagway we are guided by flamboyant period-costumed locals in a bright yellow streetcar bumping along the cobbled streets past meticulously restored historic buildings before boarding the White Horse Pass and Yukon Railway. Low clouds shroud the valleys as the heritage locomotive winds its way through snow-capped mountains following the route of the 1898 gold rush stampede. The harshness of the dramatic landscape filled with bears and unpredictable weather conditions gives an appreciation of the extreme hardship that the gold seekers would have had to endure.

Being small, the SS Legacy can also dock in villages that don’t rely on the hordes of tourists from large cruise ships. In Haines we watch in awe as a brown bear catches salmon from Chilkoot River and her mischievous cub jumps from rock to rock clutching a fish carcass like a child would a teddy bear. Sitka brings the richness of the local Tlingit American Indian clan through a performance of the

“EIGHT HUMPBACK WHALES, MOUTHS AGAPE, RISE MAJESTICALLY”

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Naa Kahidi Dancers and a walk through the Sitka National Historic Park where totem poles tower amongst the spruce trees. The petroglyphs found along the beach in Wrangell are some of the best in the country. More than 40 ancient designs and symbols are easily seen along the short stretch of rocky shore. My favourite port is Petersburg, a pretty Norwegian fishing village. We sit in the Sons of Norway Hall sipping tea, eating rich homemade pastries, watching the traditional youth dancers and listening to their hilarious childhood tales of growing up in a remote Alaskan village.

01 A very rare view of whales bubble net feeding02 Glacial ice at Mergerie Glacier 03 A bear ambles along the shore

04 Creek Street is full of brightly-painted rustic buildings

05 Harbour seals at play

Wildlife encountersLike all Un-Cruise Adventures, wildlife viewing opportunities are at the heart of every voyage. Everyone stops to see the soft eyes of a harbour seal, a bear ambling along the shore, a Sitka black-tail deer darting into the forest, bald eagles gracing the tops of spruce trees, a pod of porpoises riding the bow wave, a glimpse of a coveted orca or the sheer magnificence of a humpback. “I’ve seen more whales in a few days than in my whole life,” says Susan, a passionate animal-lover. “It’s hard to even blink – I’d hate to miss a thing.”

Life onboardAlthough the elegance of the Victorian era is reflected in the décor, life on the SS Legacy is casual and relaxed. Each of the 44 tastefully appointed staterooms opens onto a balcony with the Owner’s Suite being the pièce de résistance. Marvel at the sheer size of the lounge room with its leather lounges, handcrafted dining table, full bar and wide-screen TV.

With an all-inclusive rate and a staff to guest ratio of 2:1 there’s plenty of pampering; hot tubs, sauna, massage room, daily yoga classes, gym equipment, entertainment, all shore excursions and unparalleled wildlife encounters.

Un-cruising on the SS Legacy is the best of nature with a twist of gold. In the words of John Muir – “By going out, I found, I was really going in.”

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Travel fileAccommodationwww.un-cruise.com

Getting there Alaska’s Golden History sails from Juneau to Ketchikan or reverse from June to August. Alaska Airlines fly from LAX to Juneau and Ketchikan. www.alaksaair.com

Other infowww.travelalaska.com

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Australia’s rust-red heartland has lured many an explorer in its time, and now with Australia’s Last Frontier itinerary from

Abercrombie & Kent, intrepid voyagers can marvel at the Pilbara, the Kimberley, Arnhem Land and more in utter luxury.

In a unique new journey across Western Australia and the Northern Territory, one lucky group of 30 will spend 13 days traipsing the wilds from Perth to Darwin in unsurpassed comfort, all via a privately chartered Fokker

AUSTRALIA BY PRIVATE JET

F70LR. Whilst airborne, guests enjoy the comfort of business-class seats and fine dining as they fly onwards to experience the magic of yellow sunrises and dusty-red sunsets, rocky mountain tops and the submerged delights of Ningaloo Reef, earthy iron-ore mines and privileged insights into Aboriginal culture.

Abercrombie & Kent has been granted a rare invitation to join the Warmun Aboriginal Community, whose artists are renowned for their

Explore the beauty and rich culture of Australia’s remote north-west by air, writes Amelia Hungerford.

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01 Stunning Top End scenery02 Berkeley River Lodge03 Western Australia’s coastline by air04 Each Aboriginal painting has a story to tell

history-documenting canvases, painted with natural ochre and pigments. Visitors to Paris’ Musée du Quai Branly will see the work of Warmun senior artist Lena Nyadbi enlarged and reproduced, so respected are the community’s artists around the world. Tour director, Bill Zammit, is a Top End local and proud ambassador for indigenous Australia, while Aboriginal art specialist, Vivien Anderson, will enlighten with tales of the extraordinary paintings to be encountered and the stories they tell.

Each night, luxury lodgings have been selected for their incomparable locations and experiences, including the cliff-top Berkeley River Lodge. This stunning eco-lodge, bordered by the eponymous river on one side and the Timor Sea on the other, has been reserved for Abercrombie & Kent alone, ensuring a truly indulgent stay on your Top End odyssey. All meals and drinks are included in the rate of $28,000 per person twin share, with a departure date set for 26 August, 2014.www.abercrombiekent.com.au

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Russia by Golden EagleFrom the grandeur of Moscow’s Red Square and the kaleidoscopic domes of St Basil’s Cathedral to the military port of Vladivostok on the Pacific Coast, a journey aboard the Golden Eagle Trans-Siberian Express is like no other. Crossing eight time zones and 10,600km in old imperial splendour, the Trans-Siberian spans other-worldly landscapes such as Lake Baikal (the deepest on earth) and the lace-carved buildings of the ‘Paris of Siberia’, Irkutsk. As a guest on board the Golden Eagle, you will even experience

the steppe of Mongolia, once the centre of Genghis Khan’s magnificent empire.

Life aboard the Golden Eagle is one of decadent luxury. Russia’s only fully-ensuite private train allows you to enjoy the wild and remote scenery from the comfort of your cabin or with tours at each stop.

The Imperial Suites, Golden Eagle’s premium rooms, offer spacious accommodations, complete with king-sized bed, a dedicated sitting area and heated floors, as well as personal butler

service. All guests benefit from the assistance of a cabin attendant offering a nightly turndown service and amenities from L’Occitane. Dining is an experience heartily infused with vodka, with a bar (and pianist) that has no set closing time.

Golden Eagle Luxury Trains also journey along the extraordinary Silk Road into China, visiting Armenia, Georgia and Azerbaijan with a Caspian Odyssey. The unforgettable 15-day Trans-Siberian Express journey starts at $15,495 per person for Silver Class cabins.

TRACKS OF DISTINCTIONFrom the heights of the Alps to the depths of Lake Baikal, Amelia Hungerford discovers the charm of the journey with two of the world’s most distinguished luxury trains.

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All aboard the Orient-ExpressSnow blankets the ground and crowns the mountain peaks. The world is still as the Venice Simplon-Orient-Express, the flagship of the Belmond collection, winds its way through the Alps, following in the tracks marked out by the Grand Tours that defined travel’s Golden Age. Aboard this refined icon of luxury rail, guests are transported to an era of tuxedos and diamonds at the dinner table, surrounded by a mountainous environment that can truly be called sublime.

If ever a train has conjured images of opulence and intrigue, it is without doubt the Orient-Express. The legendary journey across Europe to Istanbul has been immortalised in book and film, and survives in the tradition of the Venice Simplon-Orient-Express. Each

carriage has been impeccably restored to its former 1920s and 1930s glory, with endless wooden finishes polished to a high sheen. A personal steward will attend to your every need, as well as convert your double cabin from its day banquette to a luxurious duo of beds (upper and lower) with embroidered linen. Sumptuous set menus are included in your rate, or indulge with an à la carte menu in one of the three restaurant cars, each boasting unique 1920s flair and style.

Among the pale blue classical figures etched into Lalique glass at Côte d’Azur, the English marquetry of Étoile du Nord and the black lacquer panels of L’Oriental, you will experience fresh seasonal dishes from head chef Christian Bodiguel, including a black cherry

clafoutis to die for. (This may well be the case if you happen to find yourself in an Agatha Christie novel.)

The modern Orient-Express is best known for its London-Paris-Venice route (in association with the British Pullman), although it still makes the six-day iconic journey to Istanbul once a year, as well as visiting cities such as Budapest, Prague, Bucharest and Vienna. Prices for the two-night London to Venice journey start from $3080 per person.www.abercrombiekent.com.au www.belmond.com

01 The Golden Eagle’s luxurious interior02 Lake Baikal03 Five-star service on the Venice Simplon-Orient-Express

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SMOOTH OPERATORThe motoring cognoscenti have come to expect the unexpected from Rolls-Royce under BMW’s stewardship. In 2003, Phantom swept away all preconceptions of what a modern Rolls-Royce should be. And now; Wraith, writes Leon de Bord.

PRICE From $645,000 ENGINE Twin-turbo petrol V12 6592cc SPEED Zero to 100km/h in 4.6 seconds; top speed of 250km/h (governed)

Unveiled in 2013, Wraith is, in a word, unexpected. A technically advanced fastback coupé and the most powerful

motor car in the Rolls-Royce portfolio, it pushes out all the boundaries of luxury motoring.

Wraith echoes wondrous 1930s Rolls-Royce coachwork like a Phantom 11 ‘Tear Drop Fast Back’ that graced the 1931 American Salon in New York, and a striking V12 Phantom 111 ‘Swept-Tail’ saloon used by Field Marshal ‘Monty’ Montgomery in WWII.

Arguably, Wraith is the most delectable Rolls-Royce in the five-model range. Its eclectic, must-have ‘bespoke’ options and colour palette can easily add $100,000 to truly

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personalise Wraith. Choose radar-guided active cruise control; head-up display; monogrammed headrests; a roof lining with 1340 fibre-optic stars, adjustable for brightness; and new Canadel timber panelling that adds subtle lustre and texture to the cabin.

Wraith means exclusivity, effortless refinement and ultra-comfort. Its uncluttered, four-seat cabin is exquisitely furnished with fine leathers and carpets. Handcrafted timber veneers are achingly beautiful. Wraith’s controls are wonderfully tactile; endless functions, including media and dynamic settings, are easily available through the Spirit of Ecstasy Rotary Controller.

But it’s behind the wheel that drivers experience what the rather exciting

Wraith ‘motoring’ means. At 5.27m long and 1.95m wide, it is large, yet, with familiarity, shrinks around you. The immense 800Nm of torque, available from just 1500rpm, delivers astonishing acceleration.

Rolls-Royce says “Wraith’s aerodynamic lines and wide rear track reinforce the promise of athletic prowess and dynamism.”

Wraith’s hidden talents make driving so refreshing, so effortless. In a world first, its eight-speed ZF gearbox talks to the sat-nav system, so Wraith knows when to change down a gear for road conditions. New software will add a third dimension: soon Wraith will change gears automatically for hill climbing and descents.

In the early days of motoring, two signature statements were made. In 1906, Alfred Harmsworth, owner of The Daily Mail, said the remarkably silent Rolls-Royce Silver Ghost was “The Best Car in the World.” Autocar said it was “the smoothest thing we have ever driven… the feeling is one of being wafted through the landscape.”

Wraith’s experience is as they described, but so much more. Top Gear’s James May got it right when he said that Rolls-Royce motoring encourages drivers to get up early and take the scenic route just for the indulgent pleasure, and the stunning windscreen format.www.rolls-roycemotorcars.com/wraith

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PRICE $3.2 millionENGINE Petrol W16SPEED Zero to 100km/h in 2.6 seconds; top speed of 408km/h

BUGATTI LEGEND MEO COSTANTINI

Bugatti is one of the world’s great icons of automobile prowess. Its name continues to beguile car aficionados the world over. The

Veyron 16.4 captured headlines with its 2005 release, not for its Bugatti-style rounded beauty, but for its heart-stopping speed. The current Veyron coupé, the Super Sport version, has a top speed of 431km/h, while its roadster cousin, the Grand Sport Vitesse, clocked over 408km/h in April 2013.

To celebrate the Veyron’s success, Bugatti is honouring its famous figures with the Bugatti Legends series. Each of the six limited editions has a production run of just three vehicles and renders homage to one of the personalities that made Bugatti the icon it is today. The first in the series honours racing driver Jean-Pierre Wimille, while the second is dedicated to Bugatti’s eldest son, Jean.

The third and most recent Vitesse Legend, the Bugatti Legend ‘Meo Costantini’, unites the past and the present with 1920s flair. Bartolomeo ‘Meo’ Costantini headed the Bugatti racing team for eight years, as well as being one of the company’s most

successful racing drivers. With more than 2000 victories, it was also one of the most successful racing cars of all time – and the only one of the era that could be driven both on the track and on the road.

Like all six editions in the series, the Bugatti Legend ‘Meo Costantini’ is based upon the Grand Sport Vitesse. Through the car’s extraordinary detail, you can relive the 1920s heyday of Costantini’s victories: spot outlines of the Sicilian circuit, Targa Florio, and Costantini’s signature in stitching and

silver in unexpected places. But the ‘Meo Costantini’ is more than just a celebration of one man; it is a celebration of an era, evident in the painstakingly laser-engraved 1920s scenes that feature in the leather interior door panels.

Unfortunately, you won’t spot any new Bugattis in your neighbourhood. Not even mentioning the limited production run of three and Australia’s crippling luxury car tax, Bugatti simply doesn’t make a right-hand drive vehicle.www.bugatti.com/les-legendes

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Buy Onlinewww.pOOleywines.cOm.auemail: [email protected] phone: 03 6260 2895

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2008 Vintage ‘matilda’ sparkling Winner of the Best Sparkling Wine Trophy

at the 2011 Sydney International Boutique Wine ShowServed at Prince Charles and Camilla’s visit to Tasmania,

Richmond, November 2012.

First Tasmanian vineyard to be certified under the freshcare environmental viticulture code of practice.

Treat yourself to the delectable new 2009 vintage Matilda Sparkling.

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Between the winters of 2014 and 2016, Air France will be installing 2102 upgraded business class seats onboard its 44 Boeing 777 vessels, the aircraft that make up a majority of its long-haul fleet. The new design is set to renew the experience of air travel, with unique considerations that aim to provide a cocoon of comfort and freedom for business class passengers.

In creating the new design, Air France sought the insight of customers, employees, ergonomic experts and designers, and also collaborated with the world’s leading manufacturer of aircraft seats, Zodiac Aerospace. The result is a design that expertly focuses on the ‘Three Fs’ of flight seating — full flat, full access and full privacy.

The seats feature a lie-flat bed for perfect sleep, while the design and cabin layout ensure each passenger has direct aisle access. The curved wall of the seat is what enhances its cocoon-like appeal, providing an enclosed area that increases the feeling of personal space and privacy while flying.

The high standard of the new design is further proven in Air France’s use of refined details such as leather upholstery and topstitching, not to mention the 41cm high-definition touch screens encompassed in each seat. These new screens offer 1000 hours of in-flight entertainment, with other technical considerations also included such as a USB port, electrical outlet and touch screen handset.

Further business delights also encompass easy-access storage areas, delicate-touch blankets and an extra-large feather down pillow for comfortable sky-high dreaming.

This development comes as part of Air France’s framework for its Transform 2015 plan, which includes an up-market push in all of its products and services entitled ‘Best & Beyond’. It’s an incentive costing the airline over €500 million (AU$773 million), so travellers should keep their eyes and ears open for other developments by the airline in the not-too-distant future.www.airfrance.com.au

Business comfort from Air France

Sommeliers of the SkyQantas took away five of the 13 titles presented at this year’s Cellars in the Sky Awards held in London on 3 February, 2014. The company not only won Best First Class Cellar and Best Business Class Cellar, but also Best Overall Wine Cellar, making Qantas the clear stand-out of the evening. Travellers who appreciate quality wines will be impressed to hear that the airline educates crew members with Sommeliers in the Sky training in order for them to provide accurate expertise to passengers, while also investing over $15 million in the Australian wine industry each year to ensure they can deliver a premium variety. Qantas also received first place in the Best First Class White Wine and Best First Class Sparkling Wine categories, so be encouraged to try the Leeuwin Estate Art Series Chardonnay 2009 or the Taittinger Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs 2000 on your next journey.www.qantas.com.au

Air New Zealand’s DreamlinerAir New Zealand is gearing up for the first take-off of its new Boeing 787-9 Dreamliner later this year. The first flight route has been announced as Auckland-Perth, which is good news for the Western Australian tourism industry as New Zealand is its second biggest international tourism market. Flights along this path are now available via Air New Zealand and Virgin Australia for travel from 15 October. The 787-9 aircraft has been confirmed to include 18 lie-flat Business Premier seats in a herringbone layout, with these passengers also enjoying gourmet delights from consultant chef, Peter Gordon, champagne, Panasonic in-flight entertainments systems and, thanks to each seating space’s additional ottoman, there is also the option of dining tête-à-tête. Outside its Business offerings, other innovations include the unique Economy Skycouch, particularly good news for families with young children. Dreamliner flights between Auckland and Sydney, Melbourne and Brisbane will begin by September. Tokyo and Shanghai are not far behind. www.airnewzealand.com.au

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A new generation of Cessna Citation business jets has landed in the Australian market, a winged creation titled the Sovereign+. After spending the first few days of March 2014 on a demonstration tour that hit the nation’s larger cities, the buzz around this aircraft is certainly justified.

Designed to meet the needs of the regular business traveller, the Sovereign+ is a smooth ride. Building on the standards of the first Sovereign model, the aircraft has somehow managed to improve on its already solid performance, now boasting an increased flight range of 5556km and the ability to climb straight to 45,000 feet courtesy of its new, gently swept winglets. This enhanced range makes it a vessel suited to coast-to-coast or trans-Tasman routes.

In terms of cabin space, the interiors are newly designed in modern style, with a comfortable standing height and well-allocated baggage capacity.

Staying connected throughout the flight is possible with its Clairity cabin management system — it includes

interactive moving map capability and integration of smartphones, tablets, and MP3 players, along with an airborne internet system — passing the time on board will not be an issue whether work or play is on your agenda, or accompanying colleagues or family members are looking to be occupied for the flight’s duration.

The jet can seat eight passengers comfortably, along with space for two pilots and two crew. Pilots will enjoy the ease of the new flight deck, with the powerful Garmin G5000 avionics suite centred around state-of-the-art LCD displays, four touch-screeen control panels and a no-nonsense auto throttle system to ensure smooth sky travels from take-off to landing.

Leather seating, stowable armrests and optional lumber supports means passengers can stay productive in comfort throughout flights, while Cessna’s vastly increased warranty on the plane acts as a vote of confidence in the aircraft’s quality.www.aeromilpacific.com.au

Take to the Sovereign skies

Cathay Pacific’s airline excellenceAirlineRatings.com’s 2014 Airline Excellence Awards has recognised Cathay Pacific’s innovation by awarding them ‘Best Business Class in the World’, also ranking the airline as one of the top three across the globe. The ingenious features of Cathay’s business class include the longest flatbed seat in any commercial aircraft, bed extensions that increase width by 16.5 centimetres and ergonomically designed foam. These award-worthy seats are now available on all of Cathay’s 70-plus flights that depart from Sydney, Perth, Adelaide, Cairns, Melbourne and Brisbane each week.www.cathaypacific.com.au

Emirates connects rugby fansEmirates has announced a sponsorship agreement with the Rugby World Cups in both 2015 and 2019, making them the first worldwide partner to sign for both the England and Japan tournaments. The airline has also extended its specially obtained, first-ever right to brand the shirts of match officials on the field of play with their trademark ‘Fly Emirates’ logo until 2019. England’s Rugby World Cup will begin on 18 September next year and Emirates — with over 100 flights into the UK each week — is in a prime position to connect fans to 2015’s host country. Though 2019 may still seem far off, the airline currently offers 21 weekly services into both Osaka and Tokyo.www.emirates.com

Etihad’s double daily to DublinFrom 15 July 2014, Etihad Airways will increase its Abu Dhabi-Dublin service from 10 flights per week to twice daily, providing 8988 extra seats each week. The aircraft manning this route will be a Boeing 777-300 ER offering 380 seats, 40 in Pearl Business Class, and an Airbus A330-200 that carries 262 passengers, 22 in Pearl Business Class. This development will increase connectivity on both ends, with 800 weekly connections to 45 Etihad destinations in the Middle East, Australia, Asia and Africa. The Abu Dhabi-Dublin route is one of Etihad’s top 10 most popular services, providing reason for more seats to be available.www.etihad.com

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ROMANCE, ELEGANCE AND PRIVACY IN THE TRUE FIJI

Romancers and nature-lovers alike will be in bliss at the award-winning Taveuni Island Resort & Spa on Fiji’s scenic Garden Island. Up to 12 couples can enjoy immersion in Pacific paradise, housed in spacious luxury villas set amid tropical gardens and a brilliant turquoise ocean. From soft coral exploration and treks through World Heritage rainforest to days spent soaking and relaxing by the beach, pool or spa, guests will enjoy an enchanting combination of culture, adventure and decadence at Taveuni. It is true Fijian luxury.

www.taveuniislandresort.com

T A V E U N II S L A N D R E S O R T & S PA

Royal Davui Island Resort is an exclusive adults-only sanctuary situated in Fiji’s spectacular Beqa Lagoon offering a level of Fijian luxury, elegance and privacy not found in today’s larger resorts.

At Royal Davui Island Resort Fiji, the shell symbolises our invitation for you to come to our island paradise. Just a few guests can be accommodated at Royal Davui, so be prepared for an exclusive and exceptional experience from the moment of your arrival. Here the world-renowned warmth and hospitality of the Fijian people awaits you. Royal Davui Island Resort is an adults only resort, offering an ideal tropical island escape, vacation, honeymoon or wedding.

Bula Vinaka! - Welcome to Royal Davui Island Resort Fiji

royaldavui.com | [email protected]

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SIGNATURE GOURMETMouth-watering Tuscan gastronomy Top 10 whiskies

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I’ll never forget the first time I saw the medieval hill town of Pitigliano – it was almost the last thing I ever saw. As I hummed along on my Piaggio

Liberty 125cc hire scooter from the west on Strada Statale 74, there it was, rising seamlessly, majestically, from the tufa rock of the Grosseto hills in Tuscany from which it is chiselled.

I’d just passed the 15th-century Madonna Delle Grazie Church, itself enough of a distraction, but what came next was a blur as the trees suddenly fell away and Pitigliano hit me like a fist. And this is where some surveyor decides is a good place for a hairpin bend? And did I mention I was on a scooter?

There were more than 185,000 accidents on Italy’s roads in 2012. Where is the brake? Is that an ox cart? It was a perfect storm of potential catastrophes.

Fortunately I ran off the road into the gravel car park of the Tommasi Wine Bar, its cavernous interior hewn into the overhanging rock face in 1902 and its parking area providing a fresh chance at life for generations of open-mouthed, scooter-riding tourists admiring the surrounds ever since.

In good companyMy accommodation that night was the Hotel Il Pellicano, which after an hour-and-a-half’s scootering now lay 90km behind me on a hillside overlooking the Tyrrhenian Sea.

It’s a testament to Il Pellicano that the prospect of leaving Pitigliano’s intoxicating maze of alleyways in four hours’ time didn’t induce a depressive episode. Il Pellicano is a great Italian

A TASTE OF TUSCANYItaly’s rural countryside is beautiful but just wait until you taste the food. The culinary delights awaiting you at Hotel Il Pellicano will be just as memorable as the surrounds thanks to a humble chef with two Michelin stars up his sleeve, discovers Barry Stone.

hotel and, like all truly great hotels, it has a great story.

Patricia and Michael Graham, two American socialites, began building their home-come-love-nest on the Monte Argentario Peninsula in 1964 and named it after the place where they met — Pelican Point in California. It began as a private home before evolving into a kind of beach club for the Grahams’ family and celebrity friends, who revelled in its seclusion. There were costume parties with men in turbans and ladies in floor-length dresses. Charlie Chaplin once danced his way around its saltwater swimming pool.

I was in way over my culinary head. Sitting opposite was Federico De Cesare Viola, the Rome-based food journalist and writer for Il Sole 24 Ore, Italy’s most influential financial newspaper. Next to him was Flabia Di Drusco, editor of Italian Vogue. There was the food & wine writer Maddalena Fossati, and food photographer Giacomo Bretzel. I struggled with what best to lead with; that for too many years as a child I believed that BBC’s 1957 April Fool’s Day documentary on the hand-harvesting of the Italian spaghetti crop, or memories of eating Nasi Goreng from a box on our Friday treat nights?

So, why such a collection of writing luminaries? Well, we were all there to celebrate the book launch of Eating at Il Pellicano, a sumptuous coffee-table book that chronicles the history of the hotel and of its two-Michelin-starred chef Antonio Guida, who has placed it squarely on Italy’s epicurean map.

Antonio began his love affair with

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01 Colourful appetisers02 Chocolate tart with tonka beans, hazelnut biscuits and

cherry ice-cream03 Lobster with marsala sauce

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out, it isn’t. Hundreds of years ago wealthy Venetians gave families on the Greek island of Tinos pigeon houses, the so-called dovecotes, so the birds could be bred as a delicacy for the Venice elite. They can still be seen today, their unique design and detailing an ornament on the Tinos landscape. Families would have needed a degree of wealth to be given a pigeon house to start with, and certainly their fortunes would have improved once they had one. Pigeon, it turns out, is anything but peasant food.

The next day I was driven to Il Pellicano’s sister property, La Posta Vecchia, on the coast outside Rome.

It was previously the home of billionaire industrialist John Paul Getty. In the basement were the foundations and

excavated treasures, including pottery, coins, and extensive wall and floor mosaics, of a 2nd-century-BC Roman villa that predates Mr Getty’s 17th-century villa by almost 2000 years. It was built at about the time the first inhabitants began improving upon nature in those wonderful tufa hills of Grosseto.

“WHEN I COOK FOR MY PARENTS, MY MOTHER STANDS OVER ME AND KEEPS ME IN LINE. MICHELIN STARS DON’T IMPRESS HER.”

food when he was a child, getting in the way of his mother in their kitchen in the town of Apulia in Puglia and helping her make sagne – hand-twirled pasta that looks like it has been wound round a piece of dowel and is very tricky to make. “I still do it, but it takes time,” he told me. “Even to this day when I go home to my parents’ house and cook for them, my mother stands over me and keeps me in line. Michelin stars don’t impress her.”

Like most great chefs, Antonio began humbly enough. “I cleaned and cleaned and cleaned. For what seemed like years my only job was scrubbing pots and pans until I ‘graduated’ to washing and prepping vegetables.” He was a pastry chef at Pierre Gagnaire’s in Paris and Enoteca Pinchiorri in Florence and from there went to the renowned Don Alfonso 1890, the finest restaurant on the Amalfi Coast.

High-calibre dining The meal was, of course, an event. Roasted blue lobster, ravioli stuffed with roasted tomato, risotto with squid’s ink, sage and baby calamari. I can’t recall ever liking squid’s ink quite so much. I can’t recall ever having squid’s ink. But the chatter is equally priceless. For instance, did you know that if you’re in a Michelin restaurant, never leave your table if a course is about to arrive? If the chef sees you’re not at your table he’ll throw the dish away and cook it again – the food needs to be served the moment it has finished being plated. In restaurants of this calibre, food is rarely ever ‘kept.’

And thank goodness I told Maddelena over our pigeon breast with cream of fois gras and ananas that I’d always thought pigeon was peasant food, because turns

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Travel fileAccommodationwww.pellicanohotel.comwww.lapostavecchia.com

Getting there Lufthansa flies to Pisa via Hong Kong and Munich. Hire cars can be organised through DriveAway. www.lufthansa.comwww.driveaway.com.au

Other infowww.turismo.intoscana.it/en

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08 Il Pellicano’s terrace05 The town of Pitigliano

06 More delectable gourmet fare07 Chef Antonio Guida

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01 Nant Distilling Company 02-03 Making whisky is a fine art04 The Balvenie Malt Master, David Stewart

WHISKY BUSINESSIt is a spirit that conjures ancient Celtic images of rugged

British highlands, deep red tartan and warm open fires, but whisky has become international, as Martine Nouet discovers.

Distilled, matured and enjoyed on all continents, whisky has become an iconic drink. Figures speak volumes: one bottle of

whisky is sold every second in the world. But using just the one word to describe this drink is naming the wood for the trees. If the spirit is singular, it can also be pluralist.

The cereal used in the making, the way it is brewed, distilled and matured or blended, the location where it is produced; these are all criteria which determine a style.

Scots and Irish are still debating (or arguing) which of the two countries invented whisky. One thing cannot be denied, whisky — uisge beatha or water of life — has celtic origins.

Scotland has undoubtedly taken the lead with blended whisky and more recently single malt, the category in which the gold nuggets are found. Single malts are now exhibited (and tasted) in festivals around the world.

I was delighted to be a guest of honour at Sydney and Canberra Whisky Live last year and I was impressed by the number

of whiskies displayed on the stands and also by their quality. The ‘thirst’ for knowledge of people attending was just as impressive.

Scottish flairScotland does not only boast beautiful castles, its hundred or so distilleries are as renowned as the ‘Grands Châteaux’ from the Bordeaux wine region. Double distilled from malted barley in pot-stills, single malt is produced in one single distillery, hence its name. Glenfarclas, Balvenie, Glenlivet, Highland Park, Glenmorangie, Macallan, Ardbeg, Laphroaig are all similar to ‘grands crus’ in wine.

I like to think that Scotland’s romantic scenery and enticing fragrances are encapsulated in a glass of single malt. Age is not as important as maturation, the success of it entirely depending upon the quality of the cask in which the new make develops its aromatic profile, taking flavours from the wood. What a fascinating alchemy!

Whisky aficionados are captivated by this new rush for gold, a liquid gold

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The ultimate pairingI introduced Canberra and Sydney Whisky Live attendants to one of the most thrilling matching experiments in 2013: oysters with a peated single malt.

We were spoiled with the best Sydney Rock oysters from Wapengo oyster farm. They matched deliciously with Talisker Storm, a briny and peppery single malt with a delicate smokiness from the Isle of Skye, off the west coast of Scotland. A few drops on the oyster and the duo takes you right onto the shore. European oysters are iodine and saltier; they can take a more pungent whisky such as Laphroaig 10 Year Old, a medicinal malt from the island of Islay. That combination will surprise you with an aromatic burst of iodine and smoke. Oysters and whisky — a definite bucket list item.

which is no longer the exclusivity of Scotland. Distilleries are mushrooming all over the world, not least in Australia.

I went directly to Tasmania after Whisky Live but alas, my stay was too short — I only had enough time to visit two distilleries. Fortunately, I could sample many more than two whiskies.

Taste of Tasmania Hellyers Road Distillery has a unique still house and produces excellent peated and unpeated single malt. Nant Distilling Company and Sullivans Cove, also in Tasmania, have been awarded international accolades. Hobart’s Sullivans Cove has even been forced to limit export sales of some versions because the popularity of Tasmanian whisky is such that they face a shortage! All good news for an impressive distillery that exports to 11 countries.

I spent a day at Nant Distillery in the Highlands (Bothwell), sampling many casks of ‘sleeping whisky’, which is aged in small casks and shows balance and harmony even at a young age.

Limited releases of young single malts is one of the new trends in ‘whiskymania’ — an unmistakable sign of popularity. It is obvious that Australia has hit the whisky road and I can’t wait to come back.

Ten whiskies to chase

Ardbeg Uigeadail(Scotland – Islay)An intense smoky character. The nose is deep and sweet, releasing immediate sherry notes. Dates, raisins, dark chocolate, all wrapped in smoke with a precise sooty note. A meaty character. The finish is long and powerful. A tender peaty beastie. www.ardbeg.com

Bruichladdich Islay Barley 2006(Scotland – Islay)

Distilled from local barley grown on Dunlossit farm, this version has retained the fruity character of Bruichladdich but shows an even creamier texture with lovely floral notes of gorse and meadowsweet flowers. A cheery, swift and rich whisky with a big, warm heart. www.bruichladdich.com

Glenmorangie Nectar d’Or(Scotland – Highlands)This single malt has finished its maturation in sauternes casks, which have conveyed a marzipan note and a satin soft texture. Bright gold colour, a mesmerising fruity nose. Citrussy with coconut and dried apricot flavours. A liquid pudding — satisfying and refined. www.glenmorangie.com

Highland Park 40 Year Old (Scotland – Orkneys)A nutty and earthy character. Fungal, rooty with perfectly integrated oak shining through. An incredible complexity. Undoubtedly a god’s nectar. The only weak point is price but if you can afford it, don’t hesitate. highlandpark.co.uk

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Glenrothes 1988 (Scotland – Speyside)

The nose is intense and fragrant with subtle licorice notes and a complex bouquet of dried fruit and spices. The palate is silky, releasing a rich medley of candied citrus and exotic spices. A sensuous, elegant, accomplished whisky. www.theglenrothes.com

The Balvenie Portwood 21 Year Old(Scotland – Speyside)One of the ‘grands crus’ of Speyside, this single malt has finished its maturation in port casks, picking up delicate notes of rose, chocolate and cherry. A distinguished, smooth and enticing after-dinner dram. www.thebalvenie.com

Nikka 12 Year Old (Japan – Taketsuru) A brilliant illustration of the excellence of Japanese whisky. This blended malt (several single malts mixed) is floral and fruity with notes of apples and plums and an oily mouth-coating texture. Creamy, perfectly balanced and definitely moreish. www.nikka.com/eng

Redbreast 21 Year Old (Ireland – County Cork)

Blackcurrant and passionfruit all the way through. The palate, like the nose, bears the signature of traditional Irish pot-still whiskies. A full basket of blackcurrants and passionfruit with a stunning lingering finish. An old Irish achieving perfection. www.singlepotstill.com

Nant – American Oak Bourbon Wood(Australia – Tasmania)Young but already round and creamy. Refreshing with a satin soft texture, the single malt has taken lots of creamy vanilla flavours from the bourbon cask. Appetising sweet cereal notes with a surprisingly long finish for a young whisky. Crisp spicy notes tease the palate. Excellent. www.nant.com.au

Sullivans Cove – American Oak Bourbon Cask(Australia – Tasmania)A delicate, floral and elegant whisky which has the charm of a watercolour painting. A citrussy touch, ripe fruit poached in a vanilla syrup with a gentle finish drying on soft spices. Relaxing and pleasantly balanced. www.sullivanscovewhisky.com

Taste your wayaround the world

Perth • March 14 & 15

Adelaide • April 11 & 12

Canberra • May 30 & 31

Sydney West • June 13 & 14

Sydney East • June 20 & 21

Melbourne • July 18 & 19

Brisbane • August 22 & 23

Over a hundred bot t lesopen for tasting

Tickets and info onlinewhiskyl ive.com.au

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SOME EVENTS ARE JUST PLAIN ASTRONOMICAL

……. NO I MEAN REALLY ASTRONOMICAL

Contact the Cosmos Centre, Charleville to enjoy these experiences.For more details phone 07 4654 7771 or email [email protected]

APRIL 2014 LUNAR AND SOLAR ECLIPSES

15 April: Total eclipse of the moon… This is the first total lunar eclipse for two and a half years, so it will be worth getting up for (around 5am should do it!).

29 April: partial solar eclipse …. will start around 3.30pm, it will make a sunset to remember.

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SIGNATURE STYLEMaticevski the artist Diving watches Perfect in pearls

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THE ART OF MATICEVSKIEach step forward by Melbourne-raised Toni Maticevski is unique, purposeful and beautifully crafted with artisanal precision. The new Autumn Winter 14 collection is his latest, fashion-forward leap.

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The unique aesthetic of Toni Maticevski is one embodied by his trademark structured cuts, asymmetrical designs and

splashes of metal or colour, and his latest AW14 collection certainly delivers on all these fronts and more. Mixing neoprene and scale-like embossed fabrics with creamy leathers, luxe silks and mesh, all pieces display the creativity of an artist’s canvas. Each evening gown, pencil skirt and jacket ‘pops’ with personalised detail, whether it be a gentle lilac, vibrant red or soft neon colouring, an intriguing drape or curious texture.

Since the label first launched in 1999, Maticevski has managed to bewitch fashionistas in Fashion Weeks from

01 Boulevard cut-out gown02 Unravel evening gown03 Official cocktail top, Gene ruffle skirt, Exchange plate belt04 Scandal gown, Power Play bomber

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Sydney to New York. Prior to launching, Maticevski had left RMIT with Honours in Fashion Design, immediately busying himself working for industry leaders such as New York’s Donna Karan and Cerruti in Paris. His work has always been focused on the exploration of cut, surface, detailing, textures and silhouettes, and his career has followed many a unique twist. Having worked as a fashion director, curator and ballet costume designer, with a personal design portfolio that spans from custom bridal and couture gowns, to shoes and a ready-to-wear collection, his chameleon capabilities show he is one designer that will never sink into obscurity amid the masses of regulation gown creators. www.tonimaticevski.com

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05 Captor beaded top, Engage pencil skirt06 Intimate racer dress07 Defiance blouse, Source legging08 Passion evening gown

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THE WATCH BELOWFIFTY FATHOMS UNDER THE SEA

Diving aficionados will attest to the importance of a reliable timepiece when submerged in the big blue, and for iconic label Blancpain the development of a first-class diver’s watch is a labour of love, writes Madeline Hoskin.

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In the past, many a diving enthusiast would look down their nose at a dedicated diver’s watch with anything but the required essentials

for travelling into the murky depths. Functionality reigned supreme so style, size and impressive complications fell by the wayside.

However, as in all things, watches have diverged from their historic origins, ushering in the development of lightweight, durable and – dare we say it – fashionable deep-sea dials. Welcome the latest Blancpain Bathyscaphe, the new addition to the brand’s enduring Fifty Fathoms collection.

Since the inception of Fifty Fathoms in 1953, the line has been the archetypal modern diver’s watch. Now, 60 years on, the brand celebrates with the release of two new models added to the lineage.

This lineage is one formed from the chance convergence of multiple historical paths, people and ideas at precisely the

right time and place. It began with the devout diving enthusiasm of Jean-Jacques Fiechter, Blancpain CEO from 1950 to 1980, and Robert Maloubier and Claude Riffaud, members of the French combat diving corps who had long spent time testing naval-standard diving watches.

Fiechter combined his diving and watch passion with his inventive prowess to patent three essential features for the successful diving watches we know today. The first was a double sealed crown for the all-important water resistance, the second was a locking mechanism to protect the rotating bezel within, and the third was a screw-on case back which prevented the back seal from letting in water. On top of these patents, a large case with clear markings became essential, as did automatic winding to prevent wear on the seals and crown.

With these central components in place, it was Fiechter’s first Fifty Fathoms that managed to withstand the rigorous

testing of Maloubier and Riffaud. Riding this hot streak, around 1956 Fiechter went on to create a smaller diameter model which was for daily, not just military, wear: the first Bathyscaphe.

Since this initial success, all cogs have been in motion with the Fifty Fathoms collection branching out to offer date indications, chronographs, calendar moon phases and tourbillons. These complications combined with sleek, wearable designs make these a quintessential sports watch of appeal beyond the niche diving market.

The latest models retain the integrity of their historic predecessors, keeping their smaller-sized sports watch appeal, the signature tough canvas strap, a self-winding mechanism and water resistance to 300 metres. The new releases also include Blancpain’s first women’s diving model in a feminine white, a triumph for watch-making, sport and style all in one timepiece. www.blancpain.com/en

MENS’ FIFTY FATHOMS $11,700 (satin brushed steel) $13,350 (ceramised titanium)

WOMEN’S FIFTY FATHOMS $10,600 (satin brushed steel)

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These gems are the oldest known to man, and while a strand of pearls has always been part of a classic wardrobe, earrings, rings and even men’s pearl jewellery are now growing in demand.

Pearls were once believed to be the teardrops of angels and are eternal symbols of romance, sensuality and purity. Australian

South Sea pearls are the most sought after, reaching at least double the price of any other pearls at international auctions. They are grown in the largest of all pearl oysters, the giant 30cm-plus silver-lip and gold-lip oyster.

Marine biologist and pearl farmer Bill Reed is director of high-end jewellery designer, Linneys, based in Broome. While Linneys mainly showcases Australian South Sea pearls in its designs, Reed visits Tahiti several times a year to select the best of Tahitian South Sea pearls. While Australian pearls are usually white, pink-white and silver-white in colour, Tahitian pearls vary from soft grey through to pale green, purplish peacock colours to almost jet black.

But which pearl to choose? The task becomes much easier when you know what to look for. “Always look for lustre, lustre and more lustre,” Reed says.

Lustre is an ‘inner glow’ resulting from rays of light travelling through the pearl’s layers and reflecting from its centre. This effect can only occur when the pearl’s nacreous coating is thick.

“If the surface of a pearl acts as a mirror, this is about as good as a pearl can be... it is far better to choose a pearl with good lustre, even if it has some spots and surface marks, rather than a duller pearl with no imperfections for the same price,” Reed says.

PEARLS OF WISDOM

18ct white gold Australian South Sea pearl bracelet. $6400

18ct white gold, Australian South Sea seedless pearl and diamond ring. $3675

Sterling silver Australian South Sea pearl pendant. $685

As with diamonds, small marks or spots should be considered characteristics rather than flaws.

Simply, the larger the pearl, the more it costs, so beware of imitations. If a pearl feels slightly gritty or chalky when you rub it against the biting edge of your upper front teeth, it’s a real one. Fakes will feel smooth like glass and real pearls also carry a higher price tag.

“There is no such thing as a good quality, large, lustrous, flawless, cheap pearl,” Reed says. A strand of large, high quality pearls can cost more than $100,000, while strands of near-perfect, bright and lustrous pearls 9-11mm in diameter may cost only a few thousand. “For a given amount of cash, one can

make a far bigger splash with pearls than with any of the other precious gems,” says Reed.

Men’s pearl jewellery is growing in popularity too, particularly in the form of necklets and bracelets featuring black neoprene and gold or silver.

The relative softness of pearls means they need special care. Store pearls separately in a soft pouch and apply perfume, cosmetics and hairspray before putting them on.www.linneys.com.au

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18ct white gold Australian South Sea pearl earrings. $1900

18ct white gold Australian South Sea pearl and diamond ring. $6800

18ct white gold, Australian South Sea pearl and diamond earrings. $8900

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SIGNATURE MICEThe new dynamic of Shanghai Work and play in the Philippines

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the Shanghai dynamic

china’s enigmatic city of Shanghai is capitalising on its unique blend of western and oriental cultures to offer a mice

destination like no other, writes Jill innamorati-Varley.

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dining in the style of emperors on ducks’ tongues, steamed swan egg, clam with garlic sauce, bamboo fungus and

black flossy moss could be considered a challenging gourmet experience for the novice traveller in Shanghai. however, this most Western of china’s cities has adopted a wide variety of world cultures and cuisines during settlements by the French, americans and British. this, combined with its glamour, tree-lined streets, and colourful, vibrant lights has earned it

the nickname, ‘Paris of the east’.it’s Shanghai’s multiple identities

that today manifest themselves in the fact that the city has a ‘chinatown’. don’t they know Shanghai is in china? apparently not, if our guide is anything to go by. he talked of china as if it were a foreign country and when questioned proudly asserted, “We think of ourselves as more like hong Kong.”

this metropolis of over 23 million people (think the entire population of australia) is china’s largest city and the only chinese city with two international

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“Shanghai iS booSting itS appeal by delving into itS faScinating paSt for anSwerS.”

and commercial buildings of the early 20th century, some even available for events. intermingled amid this european history are a growing number of ritzy bars, restaurants and hotels.

across the river in Pudong, it’s an entirely different story. here some 30,000 buildings soar 20 storeys or more, on a landscape that not so long ago was the preserve of rural farms and villages.

major projects planned for completion by 2015 include new hotels on the city’s World expo site, mainland china’s first disney Resort and the Shanghai hongqiao convention and exhibition centre, which is being built at a cost of $US3.65 billion.

Pudong is home to the Shanghai tower, the tallest of a group of three ‘super tall’ buildings, the other two being the Jin mao tower and the Shanghai World Financial center. the Shanghai tower will be the tallest building in china and the second-

a key destination for mice events, Shanghai is boosting its appeal to this market by delving into its fascinating past for answers. among this appeal is a converted abattoir in the city’s hongkou district called 1933 Shanghai that now hosts colourful parties, Ferrari F1 events and grand banquets. another conversion is on the site of World expo 2010, a disused power station — nanshi Power Plant — today powered by solar panels and used as a museum of contemporary art and host location for major events.

the old city’s waterfront area, the Bund, on the western side of the huangpu River, which separates it from the skyscrapers of Pudong, is where you can marvel at Shanghai’s substantial British, american and european bank

airports (although Beijing is fast catching up); where the maglev express train will get you from the international airport to the city in seven minutes for aU$10 and from Shanghai to Beijing in five hours, leaving every half hour, at a cost of aU$292 for business class. Where motorbike riders don’t wear helmets because of their Buddhist belief that life is a circle; where there’s a tibetan fusion restaurant called ‘Lost heaven’ of which it is said, “if you have never been to tibet, this is as close as it gets.”

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groups to china in October when it’s the national day holiday or in January/February when it is the chinese Spring Festival — it’s absolute chaos!”

a must on a tour of the city’s unique and intriguing sights is the affluent car-free dining and entertainment district of Xintiandi, in the location of the first congress of the communist Party of china.

another is the Old French Quarter tianzifang where buildings, alleys and streets remain much as they were.

a tour of some of the city’s intriguing sights wouldn’t be complete without a visit to the yuyuan (yu garden), an oasis in the middle of the city. For different and authentic dining experiences, Shanghai min is one of the city’s most renowned restaurants, while the tang

tallest in the world, surpassed only by the Burj Khalifa in dubai.

here too is the 508-room Jing an Shangri-La, boasting the largest ballroom in West Shanghai at 1743 square metres. it also has a roof garden and 1039 square metres of pre-function space.

Other excellent conference hotels include the 570-room Westin Bund center, Shanghai, with 17 meeting venues offering a total of 1650 square metres of space, and the Le Royal meridien with 761 rooms and suites, close to the shopping mecca of nanjing Road.

James Zheng deputy director of Shanghai international conference management Organization, offered these words of caution to event organisers: “Please, please don’t bring

dynasty is another restaurant on the must-try list.

end all of this with an evening cruise on the huangpu River with its spectacular showing of neon lights, and you’ll get a smattering of what Shanghai is all about.

01 Lujiazui at night02 meeting room at Le Royal méredien Shanghai 03 Sight-seeing from a traditional bridge 04 delicious bakery at Jing an Shangri-La05 Jing an Shangri-La’s buffet

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travel fileAccommodationwww.shangri-la.comwww.westinshanghai.comwww.starwoodhotels.com/lemeridien

Getting there china eastern airlines offer business class passengers a complimentary limousine service to and from their accommodation in Shanghai. au.ceair.com

Other infowww.sicmo.com.cn/en

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WORK AND PLAY IN THE PHILIPPINESFrom sun-speckled islands to inner-city indulgence, the Philippines accommodates all meeting styles and some great team building too, writes Madeline Hoskin.

Island sanctuary Shangri-La Boracay

True masters of the Philippine MICE scene, Shangri-La’s Boracay property welcomes guests wanting to relieve weary minds and muscles amid the tropical beauty of Boracay, where relaxation and revitalisation are the order of the day. Serene infinity pools blend with the blue-stained sky above and the aqua ocean stretches to meet it at the horizon. Two private beaches beckon you to their crisp white shores, and exploring the surrounds reveals untold cultural delights. Nature frames the Shangri-La resort complex, with its open architecture blurring the line between interior and exterior. Such an environment is sure to inspire business groups, no matter what their industry and interests.

Shangri-La Boracay Resort and Spa offers luxury with lashings of innovation and creativity. Aside from its four refined meeting rooms, Shangri-La’s

focus is on getting every member of the team involved and engaged with the remarkable beauty and culture that surrounds them. Discover the island with nature treks and meet the local wildlife, including the endangered flying fox. Maintain Boracay’s award-winning aesthetics by cleaning the beach shores, a soul-edifying experience that brings surprising delight. Assist the island’s technicolour marine life by planting coral reefs, or design a fish house and add to a growing project to protect the region’s finned wildlife.

Perhaps the most satisfying experience is a visit to the local Lamberto H. Tirol High School, where your team’s advice and expertise can make a tangible difference in a young person’s life or simply brighten their day. Afterall, giving back can be the biggest reward of all.www.shangri-la.com

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01 The beautiful sands of the Shangri-La Boracay02 Cebu’s Shangri-La03 The Peninsula Manila

Professional paradiseShangri-La’s Mactan Resort & Spa, Cebu

Forging a time-tested and hard-matched path in the Philippine MICE market, Shangri-La’s presence in Cebu is one with the facilities and space to woo the fussiest of corporate communities. This Queen of the South is primed for hosting events of all sorts, whether conference, convention, seminar or banquet. Its 15 conference and function rooms are state-of-the-art, from the grandiose Marquee for receptions of up to 1000 to the more intimate Bougainvillea, Camia and Jasmine venues. Equipped with audiovisual gear, Wi-Fi, projectors and LCDs, organisers can create the event that best suits their specifications.

Logistics aside, location and feel-good experiences will be what captures corporate hearts. Intersperse business talk with unique, culture-centred team building. Think green, and connect with people and planet, or focus on spa time and wellbeing – it’s all accounted for. Hop on a boat and enjoy a guided snorkelling safari through the Shangri-La Marine Sanctuary, or alight on Olango Island to spend time teaching basic nutrition and sport at the local public school. Look to Cebu’s tropical flora and fauna and learn tricks of vermi-composting and backyard farming from the resort’s local green thumb. And if relaxation is calling, CHI, The Spa will soothe you with traditional therapies and group sessions of yoga, tennis, swimming and more.

All work and no play is certainly a foreign concept on Cebu, and party time can accompany any occasion. Culminate a business stay with a professionally organised awards night, fiesta spectacular, or even a ‘beach’ or ‘pirate’ themed party — lavish decorations and divine eats included.www.shangri-la.com

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Inner-city luxuryThe Peninsula Manila

Offering a balanced union of Peninsula-standard luxury and Filipino fusion, The Peninsula Manila calls all range of corporate occasions to benefit from its sleek quarters and unparalleled services, right in the heart of the capital city. With so much on offer, the hotel attracts all manner of high-end guests, and corporate patrons considering the needs of their next meeting or event will find The Peninsula more than fits the bill.

Realising clients have busy schedules and little time to arrange all-important details, the hotel has an ever-reliable

planning team that, when given your group size, event type, dates, catering requirements and budget, will deftly compose the package that provides it all. Peninsula’s planners will guide each step, ensuring you end up with the right venue, sophisticated setting and appropriate catering.

From conference-appropriate light bites to extravagant silver-service meals, function guests will not be left wanting. Also, if you have a particular choice of preferred cuisine the kitchen staff will happily oblige and work with you on the menu.

The Rizal Boardroom provides the ultimate conference room, equipped with three-metre wall displays, conference table, computer and technical add-ons, while also breathing with natural light and warm, modern interiors. Business guests are invited to take advantage of other services as well, including high-speed wireless internet (also found in guest rooms), meeting amenities and business centre offerings including secretarial services, binding and laminating, translation services, teleconferencing facilities and more. www.peninsula.com

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The best kept secret of the Philippines is a small island called Boracay, and in a tranquil reserve on 350 metres of private beach is the five-star Shangri-La’s Boracay Resort and Spa. This blissful haven marries luxury and comfort with a reverence for nature, and whether you’re travelling for business or pleasure (or maybe a little of both), an escape to the Shangri-La is sure to be one of your most memorable.

There are 219 rooms, including 36 villas imbued with local flair and modern sensibilities, and leaving the resort during your stay is optional – everything you need for a relaxing holiday or successful corporate event is at your fingertips. The dining options alone are sure to please, no matter what the occasion. Enjoy a daytime snack or balmy evening meal in one of the cabanas dotted around the pool, linger over sunset cocktails to live music by the beach, or feast on the freshest catch from the sea in a dramatic cliffside setting. If you’re in the mood for romance, an intimate dinner for two with knockout hilltop views is the way to go – Rima Italian restaurant redefines elegant dining on Boracay.

Water sports and adventure activities await if you tire of lounging about, and don’t miss CHI, The Spa. Surrender your senses in one of 10 private spa villas dedicated solely to your well being.

E S C A P E T O PA R A D I S E

www.shangri-la.com/boracay

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SIGNATURE WELLBEINGRefresh and rejuvenate at New Zealand’s life-changing Aro Hā

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THE PATHS OF ARO-HĀInvigorate, enliven, enlighten; New Zealand’s Aro-Hā Luxury Health Retreat offers guests all this, and a life-altering glow to take home with them, writes Tricia Welsh.

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01 The paths around Aro Hā are a walker’s delight02 Passive Haus buildings03 Meals are healthy and nutritious04 Aro Hā’s rooms are spacious and light05 Rebalance yourself with a yoga class06 Cool clean air and plenty of exercise

You can’t possibly think this is enjoyable,” I mutter through clenched teeth as I struggle on a steep mountain hike above

Glenorchy in New Zealand’s South Island.I’m one of 12 participants on a signature

five-day ‘Invigorate & Enrich’ wellness adventure at the new purpose-built Aro-Hā luxury health retreat, near Queenstown in the picturesque Southern Alps.

“I’d rather be sorting the sock drawer,” I add, sotto voce, as I bring up the rear on this obligatory daily activity. But the scenery is jaw-dropping as I plough on regardless, stopping every now and then to take in the magnificent views. An

overnight dusting of mid-summer snow has transformed jagged peaks into a magical postcard scene.

Aro-Hā is the brainchild of American Chris Madison and business partner Damian Chaparro who met at The Ashram in Calabasas in California: Madison as an exhausted, over-worked participant and Chaparro as a retreat leader.

Madison, a highly successful hedge fund tycoon whose best friend insisted he go to the long-established yoga retreat to rebalance his workaholic lifestyle, went under sufferance — and then willingly enrolled another nine times, deciding the experience was so life-changing he wanted to establish his own.

After much searching, Madison bought 8.4 hectares of pastoral land adjacent to Blanket Bay Lodge overlooking Lake Wakatipu and has invested US$30million in the secluded, self-sustaining retreat.

The low-slung free-standing cedar buildings were designed by Wellington-based architectural firm Tennent & Brown and feature blonde woods that nestle into the rugged landscape. Spaces are well designed to maximise views.

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Aro-Hā offers five- and seven-day all-inclusive retreat programs with a philosophy of holistic, results-oriented fitness that includes yoga, hikes, meditation, therapeutic massage, nutritional education and more.

How will I cope with this rigorous routine with a torn cartilage in one knee and a general dislike for yoga? But my sedentary

lifestyle needs a shake-up and I’m looking forward to the detoxifying vegetarian food and a promised ‘life-altering glow’. Besides, just being in this cool, clean air and scenic environment should make me feel good anyway — shouldn’t it?

Days start early with a 5.30am wake-up bell on a computerised in-room wall

screen that lists the day’s activities. Then it’s straight into a Vinyasa Flow yoga session in a dedicated yoga pavilion whose huge front picture window provides a glorious natural landscape through to the tranquil lake and mesmerising mountains. Grazing fat lambs and black Angus cattle seem to query our poses, and even a wild hare stops by one morning to gaze at us curiously.

Our first breakfast is a cleansing green juice. Is that all? And then it’s straight into the three- to four-hour hike up a steep incline to Bonnie Jean Hut. Another day we follow the glacial blue Rees River where foxgloves line the rollercoaster road through a centuries-old red beech forest and overnight rain creates roadside waterfalls.

On yet another day, we kayak some 1.2 kilometres across the lake to Pigeon Island where we hike up to the crest and spy a rare Buff Weka.

Afternoons allow time to relax in the spa facility, attend a nutrition demonstration or listen to a talk about the sustainability practices of the retreat, such as its high-efficiency Passive Haus design techniques.

More than half a hectare of a variety of fruit trees, vegetables and berries has been planted; heirloom tomatoes, micro-greens and herbs are harvested for use. Farm manager, Christina Lister, is hopeful that within two years they will be using up to 90 per cent homegrown produce.

After five reasonably gruelling days I can feel my muscles have firmed up, I have lost a few kilos, have come to enjoy yoga and can even hold a natarajasana ‘lord of the dance’ pose. Now I can’t wait to start growing my own sprouts, planning my own walks, and yes, even booking into a yoga class — perhaps.

“AN OVERNIGHT DUSTING OF MID-SUMMER SNOW HAS TRANSFORMED THE JAGGED PEAKS.”

Travel fileAccommodationwww.aro-ha.com

Getting there Guests of Aro Hā are met at Queenstown International Airport.www.airnewzealand.com.au

Further information Please note that Aro Hā will be closed for the month of June.

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2014 Aime Welcome Reception

Melbourne was lit up this February, displaying its unique vibrancies for the 2014 Asia-Pacific Incentives & Meetings Expo (AIME). Festivities kicked off in spectacular fashion at a Welcome Reception held by the Melbourne Convention Bureau in the inner-city park, Birrarung Marr. Attracting over 2000 guests, 500 hosted buyers and more than 40 of the world’s media, right from the get-go it was fantastical. Guests were received into the non-traditional venue through a large arch flanked by costumed, musical entertainers, and added flairs and flourishes were evident in all minute details, each highlighting Melbourne’s quirks and pop-culture-driven ambience.

Food trucks – the city’s latest craze – were brought in to showcase the crème de la crème of Melbourne’s culinary creativity, serving up everything from tacos and dumplings to gumbo and chilli fries. Attendees certainly got into it, consuming 8000 food truck tasting dishes, along with 10,000 sweet and savoury canapés, 4000 grazing dishes, 5000 glasses of champagne, 4500 glasses of wine and 3000 beers.

Spirits were high throughout the evening, with eclectic entertainment dazzling guests such as circus and street performers, dance crews, balloon artists, Melbourne’s finest DJs and street-style funk music. www.aime.com.au, www.melbournecb.com.au

1. AIME networking2. AIME Networking Hour3. Full chocolate corkscrew prize provided by Epicure Catering4. AIME Welcome Reception at Birrarung Marr5. Business appointments on the LAN TAM stand6. Business appointment at the Crown Hotels stand 7. Michelle Bridges presenting at the Saxton Ultimate Event

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Celebrating Australian tourism

Under the gaping smile of Sydney’s Luna Park on Friday 7 February, Australian travel’s most illustrious names gathered to celebrate outstanding tourism. The 2013 Qantas Australian Tourism Awards capped off an extraordinary year, with winners across 28 categories including tour operators, local governments and festivals, as well as tourist attractions and hotels. The 29th edition of the awards determined Australia’s best from over 200 finalists, a prestigious status in itself. Colourful and clowny Luna Park characters set the scene for the evening, with further musical delight from Jessica Mauboy and a thrilling sneak preview of Baz Luhrmann’s anticipated production, Strictly Ballroom The Musical. Winners included Taronga Zoo for Major Tourist Attraction, and Brisbane’s exquisite Emporium Hotel for Luxury Accommodation. Signature Media was delighted to sponsor the award for Unique Accommodation, which went to the very worthy Whitsunday Escape, whose skipper-yourself bareboat charters are the ideal way to see the Great Barrier Reef.www.australiantourismawards.com.au

1. Life’s an Adventure won the award for Adventure Tourism2. Robert Pennicott of Bruny Island Cruises/Pennicott Wilderness

Journeys won the Ecotourism award. Pictured with his family3. Trevor Rees, Managing Director Whitsunday Escape, and

colleagues took home the award for the Signature Media-sponsored award for best Unique Accommodation

4. Uluru Meeting Place won the gong for Business Tourism5. Jessica Mauboy performed6. Luna Park provided a bright venue7. Guests enjoyed the evening

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Real-life reverieSimply put, there is nothing quite like the Iniala Beach House experience. This Phuket resort beside the Andaman Sea is a standout, with elaborately executed quirks that will leave guests in its high-design suites mind-boggled. It features an amazing penthouse from the creative mind of Graham Lamb that toys with perceptions, such as a giant fishtail protruding from the pool. Bask in contemporary chic in the Villa Bianca, earthy and textural delights in the Villa Siam, and elaborate romanticism in the Collector’s Villa. Indulgence deepens with a personal driver, butler, chef, spa therapist and housekeeper, along with the divine concoctions of three-Michelin-starred chef Eneko Axta at Aziamendi restaurant. Unexpected delights, natural light and even an Andy Warhol-themed gym; Iniala truly has it all. www.iniala.com

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For reservations and information visit www.likulikulagoon.comor Telephone +(679) 672 0978. Email: [email protected]

�e Warm Heart Of Fiji.Fiji’s unique, multi award-winning

luxury resort for couples only.Stay 7 nights and receive free return helicopter, seaplane or private speedboat transfers. Prices from AUD$530pp* per night including

all meals, free WiFi and non-motorised water sports.* Conditions apply. Approx rates only – check daily FOREX rates.

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Polo in the Valley. We are proud to be naming rights sponsor of Citigold Polo in the Valley – Sunday 6 April, Swan Valley. Citigold provides wealth management to clients with A$100,000 or more invested through Citibank.

1300 910 719 | citibank.com.au/gold

Citigroup Pty Limited ABN 88 004 325 080, AFSL No. 238098, Australian credit licence 238098 (‘Citibank’). General advice only. Before acting on this advice you should consider if it’s appropriate for your particular circumstances. Fees and charges, terms and conditions and our dispute resolution process are available at www.citibank.com.au or by phone on 1300 137 931. © 2014 Citigroup Pty Limited. Citibank®, Citi® and Arc Design® are service marks of Citigroup Inc. MCG14427_(0114)