Sport ClimbS

A55 Spo

rt Climb

SM

ichael D

oyle

A55Sport ClimbS

9 7 8 1 9 0 6 0 9 5 3 3 8

ISBN 978-1-906095-33-810000

These twelve sport climbing crags and a bouldering venue between Junctions 16 and 23 on the A55 are all a short hop from the expressway, only 1½ hours from Manchester and ¾ of an hour by car from Llanberis and Gogarth. Easy route finding, technical climbing, and bolted routes makes for a fun day out. It’s a great way to bag a few routes on the way back from Anglesey or Snowdonia or enjoy a full day of varied and fun climbing with short walk-ins.

A55

2nd

editio

n

Cover: Chris Doyle on Temple of Gloom (F8b), The Upper Cave Area, Llanddulas Cave. Photo: Ray Wood north WAleS roCk Climbing

Michael Doyle

the AuthorMichael Doyle was born in 1950 and

brought up in Newcastle upon Tyne. At

the age of eighteen he joined the RAF and

discovered climbing in 1969. He spent much

of the next seven and a half years in the

air force cragging and ticking off the great

British classics such as Cenotaph Corner

and Diagonal. During this period he took

full advantage of the highly subsidised

opportunity for expeditioning in the Alps and

in such places as Kenya and South America.

Michael left the RAF in the late 1970s and got

involved in the UK oil industry in the boom

years. Marriage followed and soon after a

move back to Wales in 1983 where climbing

took a back seat for some years whilst

children were being raised.

Around 1992 Michael rediscovered climbing,

and particularly sport climbing, in a big

way. Many trips to Portland, France,

Spain, Kalymnos and Italy followed. The

development of Penmaen Head between

2006 and 2008 instilled in him a taste for

crag development, which Michael claims is

possibly more addictive than climbing itself!

Mike Doyle on Top Secret (F6c) Penmaenrhos Wall, Penmaen Head. Photo Mick Ryan.

J17J17

J18J18 J19J19

J20J20J21J21

J22J22

J23J23J23aJ23a

J16aJ16aJ16J16

J15aJ15a

Llanfairfechan

Penmaenmawr

Conwy

ColwynBay

Llanddulas

ty neWydddySerth CAStle SlAbdySerth WAterfAll CrAgmeliden QuArrygop CAve boulderingllAnddulAS CAve

• Gogarth

• Conwy

• Llanberis

J16J23

2nd edition

feAturing:• 280routesfromF3toF8b

(including a handful of trad).

• Accessiblesinglepitchsportvenues with varied aspects.

• Shortwalksfromthecarandaccessible by rail and bike.

• 59fullcolourphototopos.

neW in the 2nd edition:• 117newroutes.

• 18newboulderproblems.

• 6newcrags.

• 8newsectors.

CAStle innpenmAen heAdtrenCh WAllnotiCe boArd CrAgpenmAenbACh QuArrythe gAlleryCrAigiAu CigfrAn

no

rth W

AleS ro

Ck Climb

ing

Sport ClimbS

J17J17

J18J18 J19J19

J20J20J21J21

J22J22

J23J23J23aJ23a

J16aJ16aJ16J16

J15aJ15a

Llanfairfechan

Penmaenmawr

Conwy

ColwynBay

LlanddulasA55

North WAleS roCk ClimbiNg

Michael Doyle

2nd editioN

First published 2010

Second edition 2011

First published in Great Britain 2010 by Pesda Press

Tan y Coed Canol

Ceunant

Caernarfon

Gwynedd

LL55 4RN

© Copyright 2010 Michael Doyle

Maps based on © OpenStreetMap www.openstreetmap.org

(and) contributors, cc-by-sa www.creativecommons.org

ISBN: 978-1-906095-33-8

The Author has asserted his right under the Copyright, Designs

and Patents Act, 1988, to be identified as Author of this Work.

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced,

stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form or by any

means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise,

without the prior written permission of the publisher.

Printed and bound in Poland. www.hussarbooks.pl

Acknowledgements 5

Introduction 7

The crags 8

Grade comparison chart 9

Using the guide 10

Sport climbing 10

Equipment 10

Grades 10

Bolts 11

Lower-offs 11

Groups & top roping 12

Access & conservation 12

North Wales Bolt Fund 13

dySerth AreA CrAgS 15Ty Newydd 16

Upper Crag 17

Main Crag 18

Dyserth Castle Slab 20

Dyserth Waterfall Crag 22

Meliden Quarry 27

Gop Cave Bouldering 30

llANddulAS CAve 33Forgotten Sun Area 35

The Upper Cave Area 38

KO Wall 43

Golf Ball Wall 44

The Tower 48

CAStle iNN 51Fine View Wall 56

The Lost World 57

Wilderness Wall 58

Bantam Wall 58

Tiger Lilly Wall 59

peNmAeN heAd 61Penmaenrhos Wall 64

Flowstone Wall 66

Red Wall 68

Quarry Wall 68

Wen Wall 68

Railway Tunnel Wall 69

Expressway Wall 70

treNCh WAll 73Greybeard’s Wall 74

Sector Arêtes 76

Sector Piss-take 77

NotiCe boArd CrAg 78

peNmAeNbACh QuArry 81The Lower Quarry 84

The Upper Quarry 86

the gAllery 89Lower Crag 92

Upper Crag 96

CrAigiAu CigfrAN 99Hounds Area 100

Great Wall Area 100

The Last Waltz Area 101

Diplomatic Area 101

the hiStorieS 102Dyserth Area 102

Llanddulas Cave 104

Castle Inn 105

The Gallery 105

Penmaen Head 107

Trench Wall 109

Contents

4

Ryan McConnell on the superb Vegas Nights (F6c+) The Tower. Photo Michael Doyle

5

AcknowledgementsMany people have assisted with this guide with freely given advice,

feedback and with establishing new routes and sharing information. I am

deeply indebted and this guide could not have been produced without them.

My apologies if I have missed anyone.

In alphabetical order; Ian Andrews, Dave Bathers, Andy Boorman, Mike Burrows (for new routing and much assistance at Penmaen Head and Penmaenbach Quarry), Tommy Chamings, Norman Clacher (perennial activist and my main co-developer at penmaen head), Glyn Davidson, Chris Doyle, Angela Findlay (for draft document review, general support and great roast dinners utilising organic pork), Colin Goodey, Francis Gowling, Mike Hammill, Pete Harrison, Perry Hawkins, Guy Keating, Martin Kocsis, Alan James, Elfyn Jones – British Mountaineering Council Cymru access officer (for reviewing the crag access notes and providing the main access and conservation notes), Margaret Lally, Dave Lyon, Bonny Masson, Simon Panton, Chris Parkin (N. Wales Bolt Fund), Dave Prendergast, Lee Proctor, Mick Ryan, Tony Shelmerdine (local guru and general historical database for comment and advice throughout and checking the draft document for accuracy), Richard Wheeldon, Pete White, Sarah Woodhouse (for taking the time to minutely check the draft document for grammar).Thanks to Rab Carrington and Steve Long for feedback on the gallery. For the gallery’s makeover, feedback, general assistance and photos, thanks are due to; Paul Evans, Mark Hounslea, Dave Kells, Nadim Siddique, Kevin Stephens and particularly Colin Struthers who has been most helpful. Thanks are also due to all those who submitted grade suggestions and other comments and those members of Clwyd Mountaineering Club who assisted with a clean up at that venue. Many thanks to

Franco Ferrero and Peter Wood of Pesda Press who had faith in the project.Thanks also to the many climbers who have had the vision and energy to establish new routes (very often financed with their own funds) in the area – without them …

2nd editioNDave Ashman, Andy Boorman, Nick Bullock, Mike Burrows, Danny Cattell, Sam Cattell, Neil Crud, Mike Devlin, Jenny Doyle, Colin Goodey, John Hodgson, Paul Ingram, Elfyn Jones (British Mountaineering Council Cymru access officer, for assisting with access negotiations for the dyserth Area Crags), Margaret Lally, Ryan McConnell, trusty assistant Susan Molyneux (who actually seemed to enjoy being dragged around seemingly innumerable crags), Chris Parkin and the continued support of the North Wales Bolt Fund, Ria Roberts, Colin Struthers, Harold Walmsley (for trench Wall route descriptions and for checking the topos), Mark Ward, Dave Williams.A further special thank you to co-activists: Norman Clacher and Tony Shelmerdine for much assistance and information along the road – but now it’s time to get stuck in to those new crags! Finally, a special, special thank you to Chris Doyle for the gop bouldering section, llanddulas Cave and dyserth Area Crags recent history, much information, advice and many route descriptions; also for producing a batch of such inspiring and difficult routes – I’m not sure where he gets his talent and motivation from but it isn’t me!

6

Sam Cattell padding up Llywelyn ap Gruffydd to Neil Crud (F6b-) Dyserth Castle Slab. Photo Michael Doyle

7iNtroduCtioN

IntroductionAfter the publication of the first edition of A55 Sport Climbs and the explo-

sion of activity in developing Penmaen Head, together with new routes at

Llanddulas Cave and Castle Inn in the two years prior to its publication in May

2010, it may have been expected that things would settle down for a while.

Not a bit of it! In fact the opposite has happened and there has been a frenzy

of activity over a twenty month period from January 2010, with a small core

of local activists being very busy in developing new areas along with new

crags and routes in existing areas.

The result is that the 163 routes in the first edition have been supplemented with a further 117 new routes in this edition, 18 boulder problems and no fewer than 14 new crags or sectors! The crags in the dyserth area were first to be given the treatment starting with the exceedingly fine ty Newydd – a great venue for those operating at F6b and above. Attention then focused on the lovely dyserth Waterfall Crag with a good selection of worthwhile F5s contrasting with some testing big roofs on the river side. dyserth Castle Slab was developed offering some unusual and long limestone slab lines. the gop boulder-ing cave as well as the established venue of meliden Quarry have also been included. Meanwhile, back at penmaen head, a number of very worthwhile routes have been established at a new area – trench Wall. Attention focused on the llanddulas Cave area with the development of three entirely new crags. Some big, quality lines on the tower were bagged whilst ko Wall and golf ball Wall provided a number of worthwhile short climbs. New routes were established

at llanddulas upper Cave including a couple of major routes across the roof of the big cave amongst others. A late entry was Craigiau Cigfran with what has been touted as the “best sport route in N. Wales” by one pundit along with some other good lines. Coming full circle, Colin Goodey re-discovered Castle inn for new routing and added some much needed lower grade routes at a new sector, the lost World, over fifty years after he first climbed there. Another couple of small, slabby walls were also developed resulting in Castle inn becoming a complex of crags.More than ever, the area stands as a viable venue in its own right and although not challenging Snowdonia, Anglesey and the Ormes, it complements them rather than just being a second best wet weather alternative. It’s a fun area; there is much good climbing here, much that is new and it will repay full day visits as well as dipping in and bagging a few routes on the way back from Anglesey or Snowdonia. Scoring highly on the accessibility front, the convenience of sport climbing and the quality of the routes, its popularity is assured.

8 iNtroduCtioN

tHe CRAGs

ty NeWydd Rock: Natural limestone.Aspect: South facing, sheltered.Grades: F6b - F8a+Routes: 16

dySerth CAStle SlAb Rock: Quarried limestone.Aspect: South facing, sheltered.Grades: F3 - F6b+Routes: 7

dySerth WAterfAll CrAgRock: Natural and quarried limestone.Aspect: South east/west facing, sheltered.Grades: F5 - F8b Routes: 16

melideN QuArryRock: Quarried limestone.Aspect: West facing, sheltered.Grades: F4 - F6bRoutes: 6 + 9 boulder problems.

gop CAve boulderiNgRock: Natural limestone.Aspect: South facing, sheltered.Grades: V3 - V11Problems: 9

llANddulAS CAveRock: Mainly natural but some quarried limestone.Aspect: North west/north east facing, sheltered.Grades: F5 - F8bRoutes: 73 in 5 sectors.

CAStle iNN Rock: Natural limestone.Aspect: South facing, exposed.Grades: F4+ - F7b+Routes: 37 in 7 sectors.

peNmAeN heAdRock: Natural limestone.Aspect: West facing, usually sheltered.Grades: F5 - F7b+Routes: 60 in 7 sectors.

treNCh WAllRock: Quarried limestone.Aspect: North facing, usually sheltered.Grades: F6a - F6c+Routes: 14 in 3 sectors.

NotiCe boArd CrAgRock: Mountain rhyolite.Aspect: North west facing, exposed.Grades: F6b, F7a+ and E3, E5. Routes: 4 (2 sport, 2 trad).

peNmAeNbACh QuArryRock: Quarried microdiorite.Aspect: North west facing, usually sheltered.Grades: F5+ - F8aRoutes: 13 in 2 sectors.

the gAlleryRock: Natural and quarried microdiorite.Aspect: North west facing, exposed.Grades: F6b - F7b+ and 1 E5 6b.Routes: 25 in 2 sectors.

CrAigiAu CigfrANRock: Natural microdiorite.Aspect: North west facing, exposed.Grades: F6a - F7cRoutes: 7 in 4 sectors.

9iNtroduCtioN

UK ADJECTIVAL UK TECHNICAL FRENCH

Scrambling

grades end here

1

M

2

D

VD3

S

4a 4

HS

4b5

VS

HVS

4c

5+

5a

E1

E2

5b

6a

6a+

E3

5c6b

E4

6b+

6c

E5

6a 6c+

7a

7a+

E6 to E10

6b

7b

7b+

7c

6c 7c+

8a

7a

8a+

8b

8b+

7b8c

8c+

7c 9a

8a

10 iNtroduCtioN

Using the guideAll the information is presented in a consistent way with the first line of a route description containing all the key information. For example:

• 6 udder head 1 6 15m f6a

‘6’ in the red circle is the route number on that sector and will correspond to the numbers on the topo (the colour gives a visual indication of the grade band, see page 9). Udder Head is the route name. One star is an indication of quality on a system where no stars may be a worthwhile route and three stars is an exceptionally high-quality route. The ‘6’ in a hexagon informs you that there are six bolts on the route (only given where I have been able to make a precise count). 15m tells you that the route is 15 metres in length (only included where it has been measured ac-curately). All the routes in the book are under 25m, except for a few on the gallery and Notice board Crag which are up to 35m long (see: Equipment). The number of bolts also gives a rough indication of length. Finally, F6a is the French grade (UK adjectival and technical grades are given for trad routes and A grades for aid routes).

sport climbingIt is beyond the scope of this guide to provide instruction in sport climbing. However, the two most critical areas are the initial part of the route prior to clipping the first couple of bolts and lowering off, so a couple of tips may be useful.Before the leader starts off, the belayer should establish him or herself near to the rock and in a position so that the leader does not have to step over the rope once started. The belayer should allow a lot of slack ready for clipping the first bolt – there is no point keeping the rope snug if it’s not clipped into anything. Once the leader has clipped the first bolt then the belayer should keep slack to a minimum to minimise the chance of an early ground fall by the leader. This should continue until the second bolt is clipped or preferably the third, then the belayer

can move away from the rock and allow reasonable slack. When threading the lower-off, make sure you are attached to the rope at all times at your belay loop with a screwgate karabiner. Do not shout “safe”; you aren’t.

“Safe” is the signal for the belayer to stop belaying and as you are at the top of the route then it could be that is the last thing you want. Thread the lower-off methodically and then check everything. Finally, weight the rope before unclipping from the lower-off. That will confirm that you are actually on the end and that your belayer isn’t waiting for you down the pub.

equipmentA 50m single rope will suffice at all locations other than the gallery, Notice board Crag and great Wall (Craigiau Cigfran) when 60m (70m for one route at the gallery) is essential for some routes. Ten quick draws will, almost always, be more than sufficient, but as many as 15 are occasionally needed at the gallery. In addition, it is wise to carry a couple of screwgate karabiners and a narrow sling. Wearing a helmet is very desirable, not only because of the risk from stone fall but more importantly, to avoid head damage caused by turning upside down in a fall.

A useful technique to avoid being turned upside down in a fall is to try to keep the rope in front of your leg (avoid allowing the rope to run behind) whilst you climb. This will minimise the chance of your leg becoming hooked on the rope. When moving up on lead, let the rope run in the joint between your foot and ankle as much as possible, thereby keeping it at the front.

GradesAll sport climbing grades given are French grades. It does not seem to be commonly understood in the UK that the French grading system considers the overall difficulty of

11iNtroduCtioN

the climb, taking into account the difficulty of the moves and the length of climb. This differs from most grading systems such as the British technical grade where a pitch or single pitch route is rated according to the most difficult section (or single move). In the French system grades are numerical, starting at F1 (very easy) and are open-ended. In this guide book, consistent with common practice, routes of F5 or under may be sub-divided with + or − while routes graded 6 and above are subdivided by adding a letter (a, b or c) and + or − may be used to further differentiate difficulty. Grades throughout are believed to be accurate and where possible this has been based on independent feedback. The same applies to route quality ratings. As always they are subjective and no doubt will give rise to some healthy debate – part of the richness of climbing. It should be noted that virtually all the routes in this guide are worth doing and the absence of a star does not necessarily indicate that a route is poor. For the second edition the great majority of routes have been reviewed in line with feedback with regard to grades and quality ratings and many changes have been made, almost always of a subtle nature. Consequently it is hoped that the grades and quality ratings presented in this edition better reflect a consensus for the vast majority of routes. It should be noted that many of the new routes (especially on the new crags) have had very few repeats, if any, and a consensus has not been available in many cases to confirm grades and quality. It also takes time for a route to settle in and there may still be the odd loose hold or poor rock on some new routes so care should be exercised. Feedback on any issues is welcome: mjdoyle1@yahoo.com.

BoltsA mixture of bolts have been used throughout the area, the type used being largely dependent on when the particular venue was developed and who was doing the work. These include ‘glue-ins’ (DMM, Fixe and staples) and ‘through expansion bolts’ with hangers (Fixe and Petzl). Both systems have advantages and disadvantages

in installation but hangers are less kind to karabiners in actual use and cannot be used to lower off from directly. The glue-ins have been fixed with either dual component resin from cartridges or, more recently, spin-in self-contained resin capsules. Both methods are well proven. Stainless steel glue-in bolts and hangers have been used throughout. It has been noted that some of the studs securing the hangers on a very few older routes have a discoloured look to them. This may be surface corrosion or even just discolouration but should be treated with caution. Hangers fixed with stainless steel bolts (as at the gallery) have lasted extremely well. The number of bolts on a route (where known) has been identified throughout (see: Using the guide).

Lower-offsVirtually all of the routes in this guide have full lower-offs fitted in the form of rings, large maillons, clip-ins or karabiners. Some lower-offs are already showing signs of wear, especially where they are shared by routes. Even stainless steel wears. Replacing lower-offs costs money, someone has to give up their climbing time to do it and it is largely avoidable.

Please, therefore, use your own quick-draws for lowering off as much as possible (last person threads) to minimise wear.

Eco bolt, Petzl with stainless steel hanger and a marine grade stainless steel bolt.

12 iNtroduCtioN

Groups & top ropingEasily accessible lower grade sport climbs such as those at penmaen head and Castle inn often attract groups from outdoor centres and groups of beginners. Unfortunately, this often leads to the monopolisation of certain routes as a line of people wait to try a route on a top rope. It also means that those routes are likely to become polished far more quickly than otherwise and, if your own quickdraws are not used, that the lower-offs will wear more quickly and need replacing. This can be unreasonable. The problem of beginner groups being top-roped on some of the sport climbs in this guide while wearing mountain or walking boots is also an issue. This is an inappropriate practice on sport routes and can quickly lead to damage and polishing. If beginners are at a stage where they are wearing big boots then there are plenty of alternatives on trad crags with Diffs and V. Diffs which are far more suitable for this activity without affecting established sport routes.Please be aware of the needs of others; remove ropes that are not in use and avoid popular climbs at busy times. Fortunately, the selfish continental practice of leaving ropes and quickdraws in place on a route while going off to try another route or to have lunch has not yet taken hold in Britain. The wear and tear that climbs are suffering is a growing problem. If you must visit the crags in a large group, please consider other climbers and try to avoid monopolising classic climbs which are likely to get the most traffic anyway.

Access & conservation (Provided by the BMC Cymru access officer) Many of the climbing sites along the A55, especially the limestone cliffs, are designated as Sites of Special Scientific Interest on account of the flora and fauna that is found on the calcareous grasslands that are associated with the limestone outcrops along this part of the North Wales coast. The designations give legal protection to these sites, which include Castle inn and llanddulas Cave, and climbers need to be aware that gardening and

cleaning activities at these sites could be deemed illegal under the Wildlife & Countryside Act. Climbers are asked to be sensible and discreet in opening new routes in these areas, and to take account of the special features and vegetation on these cliffs.The cliffs (and in particular caves on the cliffs) are the breeding and roosting sites for bats, which also have very strong legal protection. If you come across bats in crevices on the rocks, avoid disturbing them and give them a wide berth. If disturbed during the hibernating season they would probably die from the cold very quickly.If you do encounter any access problems, then please do not antagonise the landowner or other organisations, but refer the issue to the British Mountaineering Council’s Access & Conservation officers at the BMC Wales office (p 01690 720124) or the Manchester office (p 0161 445 6111).The BMC Regional Access Database is an excellent

Mynydd Marian Nature Reserve at Castle Inn, home to the Silver Studded Blue Butterfly (below).

Photo iStockphoto.com

13iNtroduCtioN

resource for up-to-date crag access information; www.thebmc.co.uk/bmccrag

All land is owned by somebody and the inclusion of a venue in this guide does not imply that you have a right to go there. There are no known access issues at any of the venues in this guide but climbers have an obvious vested interest in acting responsibly. This includes responsible park-ing, taking your litter home (and other people’s), respecting Sites of Special Scientific Interest (SSSIs) and generally keeping a low profile.

SANitAtioN We all have to ‘go’ somewhere – but please try to ‘go’ before going climbing. Toilet paper and faeces are all too common at continental sports crags, an unsightly health hazard which is sure to upset landowners. Most of the venues in this guidebook are close to villages and towns where there are public toilets. Please try to use them rather than the nearest tree or boulder!

pArkiNg iSSueSMany access problems are caused by parking, especially at sites that suddenly become popular due to redevelop-ment works. Always park considerately; avoid blocking gateways and driveways, or causing an obstruction. This is especially important for groups using minibuses or larger vehicles. Wherever possible, try to share transport to minimise parking problems and also reduce your carbon footprint (it’s also cheaper if your mate pays for the fuel).

north Wales Bolt FundMany thanks are due to Chris Parkin who administers the fund and who was always quick to help out with gear for the redevelopment of llanddulas Cave, penmaenbach Quarry and the gallery. He was also very supportive in providing bolts for the additional crags in the second edition. Contributions to the NWBF will be

made from any profits from this edition of the guide, as was the case with the first edition. The NWBF relies on donations from the climbing community and companies associated with climbing. Bolts cost money and stainless bolts a lot more. Drills, resin and static ropes all eat away at the donations so it needs constantly topping up. If you have enjoyed the routes in this guide (or even if you haven’t!) then please consider making a donation to the North Wales Bolt Fund and support your sport. Donations can be sent to: NWBF, Llysfaen, Lon Brynteg, Glyn Garth, Menai Bridge LL59 5NU or collected at: V12 – Llanberis, Joe Browns – Llanberis & Capel Curig, The Beacon Climbing Wall and The Inde Climbing Wall. Cheques should be made out to: North Wales Bolt Fund.

ClimbiNg iS poteNtiAlly dANgerouS You might die or be very seriously injured. In all cases you are responsible for the decisions you make and your own judgement and no responsibil-ity can be accepted for the way you use this guide. Rock can break and bolts, although extremely unlikely, have been known to come out. The route descriptions and grades are given in good faith and believed to be as accurate as possible but essentially it is your judgement which counts. It is a very bad idea to climb unless you have had previous instruction and are fully familiar with the techniques and equipment used.

The author, publisher and distributors of this book do not recognise any liability for injury or damage caused to, or by, climbers, third parties, or property arising from such persons seeking reliance on this guidebook for their own safety.

72 Trench Wall

Colin Struthers on Neither Mickling or Muckling (F6b+).Photo Michael Doyle.

73Trench Wall

Highland R

d

Tan y Graig R

d

OLD COLWYN

activequarryactivequarry

LLANDDULAS

J23J23J22J22

activequarryactivequarry

Craig yForwynCraig yForwyn

PenmaenHead

PenmaenHead

CastleInn

CastleInn

Trench WallTrench Wall

1km

1 mile

The crag lies below and roughly at right angles to the recently developed crags at Penmaen head and is considerably taller than it appears from the road because of a shrub-filled trench that runs along the base of the crag. Being north facing, it barely sees the sun which makes it a viable venue to escape the heat on hot summer days. It tends to be subject to seepage from the top after prolonged or heavy rain and particularly during the autumn and winter months. In the summer the sun leaves the crag at about 9 a.m. and returns about 7 p.m.The route descriptions have been provided by Harold Walmsley (many thanks to him for them, and for checking the photo topos).

access resTricTionsThe quarry owner is not known although it may be owned by the same people as Penmaen head as it was the main part of the old Penmaenrhos quarry. Initially, there were access issues when the development was reported to the police who subsequently indicated that, as there

are no vegetation or bird issues, they have no interest in the matter. The county council apparently owns the field in front of the trench through which the public footpath runs from the Penmaen head parking lay-by to the Rainbow Bridge over the A55.

aPProachFrom the Penmaen head parking, take the footpath down past the sectors and continue down towards the sea via some steps. The Trench Wall sectors are approached by descending into the trench from the open area of grassy field that separates the crag from the A55. The right hand end and sector Piss-take soon reveals itself just beyond an area of rock covered with wire mesh. From the left, the first sector, Greybeard’s Wall, is the area of mainly grey rock that lies directly behind a small but prominent boulder in the grass field. The left hand part forms a broad convex pillar seamed with shallow grooves and has a prominent crack towards its right hand side. The right hand part is a slabby concave wall with a

Trench WallThis is the obvious long quarried wall that runs parallel with the A55 and

about 100m away from it between Junctions 22 and 23 (Llanddulas and Old

Colwyn) of the A55. It has a north facing aspect and doesn’t look very inviting.

However, the rock is much better than it looks from the A55 and the routes

are suprisingly good so it should justly attract climbers operating in the F6a to

F6c+ grade range. All routes are equipped with stainless steel bolts, hangers

and double ring lower-offs.

74 Trench Wall

wide brown streak near its top right hand corner. The second sector, sector arêtes, lies right of Greybeard’s Wall after a set of broken grassy grooves and corners. Somewhat predictably, it contains a series of arêtes of which two are particularly distinctive. The left hand of these starts about half way up the crag and has a slim borehole right up its nose. The right hand one

GREYBEARD’S WALLFrom left to right the routes are:

• 1 no Fool like an old Fool 0 6 22m F6bFA H. Walmsley, C. Struthers 26.08.10

Takes the groove system at the left end of Greybeard’s Wall. Gain the groove via a short wall and climb it to an awkward exit. Move up to a ledge on the right then make a difficult move into the upper groove which is climbed more easily. Start below the groove.

• 2 Grey Pride 0 7 22m F6b-FA H. Walmsley, C. Struthers 27.07.10

A good route up a series of shallow grooves 3m right of the previous route. The rock is solid apart from a hanging flake at about 6m which should be treated carefully. Climb the groove, skirt the flake via the scoop on its left and move up left into the upper groove. Continue up this with interest. Start in a groove below the hanging flake.

• 3 White Magic 2 8 25m F6cFA H. Walmsley 12.08.10

A superb and complex route up the nose of the pillar right of Grey Pride. Gain the faint groove left of the borehole and climb it to big, flat holds. The groove directly above contains loose-looking blocks so traverse into the scoop on the right and exit it just left of the obvious brown niche to continue up a tiny pillar. Where this fades, move leftish and gain the shallow groove above to exit up its left wall to below a continuation groove. Climb the right wall of this and exit left to the Grey Pride lower-off. Start below a shallow groove just left of a borehole in the steep wall immediately right of Grey Pride.

has a right leaning crack in its right hand side that may be the most striking feature on the entire crag. A blunt, slightly retiring buttress lies between the two arêtes.The third sector, sector Piss-take lies right again and is the first section of clean, climbable rock on approaching from Penmaen head. It encompasses a flowstone face on the left and a quarried area on the right which the obvious crack line of Attila the Hen follows.

• 4 Thin on Top 1 7 22m F6aFA H. Walmsley, C. Struthers 21.08.10

Breaks out left from the obvious crack and corner to climb the left-facing groove in the upper wall just right of the previous route. Climb the lower right-facing groove to a large flat hold at 6m. Move left round the arête into the scoop of White Magic (1 bolt on White Magic is used). Exit the scoop via the obvious niche and follow the upper groove to a smooth finish. Start at the prominent crack and right-facing corner about 3m right of White Magic.

• 5 Trench Warfare 0 7 22m F6a+FA H. Walmsley, C. Struthers 09.09.10

Takes the prominent crack and groove that runs the full length of Greybeard’s Wall. Some devious moves and awkward clips. Start as for Thin on Top (1st 2 bolts shared with this route) to the flat hold at 6m (or use the pillar just to the right) then continue directly up the groove with interest.

• 6 The shield 1 6 22m F6bFA H. Walmsley, C. Struthers 31.08.10

Climbs the grey shield in the upper half of the crag just right of the obvious crack and groove. Climb the right wall of the groove to a slabby area and gain a ledge on the right of the overlap above. Pass the next small overlap at its right end to gain the base of the shield. Move up left onto the shield and climb its right edge by awkward moves between good edges. Then make hard moves up the centre of the shield to the finishing jugs. Start right of the crack of Trench Warfare at a shallow groove and just right of a number of overhangs.

75Trench Wall

• 7 Billy liar 1 7 20m F6a+FA C. Struthers, H. Walmsley 21.08.10

Takes the middle of the slabby bay. Balancy climbing on good rock to an interesting finish. Well bolted and harder than it looks. Gain a short groove, move diagonally right with interest and continue up past two small brown streaks to gain the shallow right-facing groove that separates the upper part of the convex pillar from the concave wall. Climb the groove until deteriorating rock forces a steep move right to the lower-off. Start 6m right of the crack line of Trench Warfare below vague grooves.

• 8 The ambrosian Federation 1 6 20m F6a+FA C. Struthers, H. Walmsley 21.08.10

Gains and climbs the shallow flake/groove in the upper wall just left of the prominent brown area at the top right-hand side of the wall. Climb the slabby wall to the groove, gain the flake/groove and follow it to a steep finish. Start under a couple of small overhangs 3m right of route 6.

• 9 neither Mickling nor Muckling 1 7 22m F6b+FA C. Struthers, H. Walmsley 26.08.10

Takes a shallow groove low down, gains the wide brown streak from directly below and finishes just right of a prominent prow in a steep and pumpy fashion. Gain the groove, climb it to ledges on the right and move up awkwardly to good footholds below the brown streak. Move up it and make a long move right to a big flat hold on the right. Swing right and climb via a borehole to the lower-off. Start below a shallow groove directly below the wide brown streak.

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76 Trench Wall

Sector Arêtes

For the first two routes descend into the Trench, walk along the bottom for a few yards then up the bank. From left to right the routes are:

• 1 only a Girl 0 7 20m F6b+FA C. Struthers, H. Walmsley 31.08.10

Takes a line left of the arête with the borehole in its upper half. Move up left to ledges then move around the blunt rib to the right and climb its right side with difficulty. Climb diagonally left then traverse left round the arête keeping below (and off) the undercut flake, which seems unsupported. Move easily up to the open groove just left of the borehole arête and climb it via a hard move onto a big foothold. Move up and reach right to the lower-offs. Start directly below the arête with the borehole.

• 2 Ugly Duckling 1 6 20m F6b+FA C. Struthers, H. Walmsley 27.07.10

Takes the groove/flake/crack line right of the arête. Move up towards the corner on the right then veer back left to gain the main groove via a flake crack. Climb the groove and follow the flake/crack line until forced right via difficult moves past a prominent flat hold. Move back left to finish. Start on the right arête of the groove.

The next two routes are on the second arête immediately opposite the descent into the trench:

• 3 insurrection 1 9 20m F6c+FA C. Struthers, H. Walmsley 21.06.11

Takes the obvious crack line left of the arête. There is a hands-off rest a third of the way up but from there it tends to be somewhat ‘goey’. Start at the bottom of the crack.

• 4 riot 2 8 20m F6c+FA C. Struthers 12.08.10

Good climbing up the very prominent crack in the right side of the arête, escalating to an excellent, difficult and bold finish. Start from the foot of the arête.

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77Trench Wall

Over to the right again and the first sector reached from the approach is:

secTor Piss-TaKe

• 1 attila the hen 1 5 F6bFA M. Doyle, M. Lally 07.09.10

Takes the obvious crack line and is more ledgy than it looks from afar. Climb to a resting ledge just before the puzzling but well protected crux. Start immediately below the first bolt from the cleaned ledge below the crack and step right into the crack.

1

The author on the first ascent of Attila the Hen (F6b).Photo Alun Ward.

Sport ClimbS

A55 Spo

rt Climb

SM

ichael D

oyle

A55Sport ClimbS

9 7 8 1 9 0 6 0 9 5 3 3 8

ISBN 978-1-906095-33-810000

These twelve sport climbing crags and a bouldering venue between Junctions 16 and 23 on the A55 are all a short hop from the expressway, only 1½ hours from Manchester and ¾ of an hour by car from Llanberis and Gogarth. Easy route finding, technical climbing, and bolted routes makes for a fun day out. It’s a great way to bag a few routes on the way back from Anglesey or Snowdonia or enjoy a full day of varied and fun climbing with short walk-ins.

A55

2nd

editio

n

Cover: Chris Doyle on Temple of Gloom (F8b), The Upper Cave Area, Llanddulas Cave. Photo: Ray Wood north WAleS roCk Climbing

Michael Doyle

the AuthorMichael Doyle was born in 1950 and

brought up in Newcastle upon Tyne. At

the age of eighteen he joined the RAF and

discovered climbing in 1969. He spent much

of the next seven and a half years in the

air force cragging and ticking off the great

British classics such as Cenotaph Corner

and Diagonal. During this period he took

full advantage of the highly subsidised

opportunity for expeditioning in the Alps and

in such places as Kenya and South America.

Michael left the RAF in the late 1970s and got

involved in the UK oil industry in the boom

years. Marriage followed and soon after a

move back to Wales in 1983 where climbing

took a back seat for some years whilst

children were being raised.

Around 1992 Michael rediscovered climbing,

and particularly sport climbing, in a big

way. Many trips to Portland, France,

Spain, Kalymnos and Italy followed. The

development of Penmaen Head between

2006 and 2008 instilled in him a taste for

crag development, which Michael claims is

possibly more addictive than climbing itself!

Mike Doyle on Top Secret (F6c) Penmaenrhos Wall, Penmaen Head. Photo Mick Ryan.

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2nd edition

feAturing:• 280routesfromF3toF8b

(including a handful of trad).

• Accessiblesinglepitchsportvenues with varied aspects.

• Shortwalksfromthecarandaccessible by rail and bike.

• 59fullcolourphototopos.

neW in the 2nd edition:• 117newroutes.

• 18newboulderproblems.

• 6newcrags.

• 8newsectors.

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