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Retro engineering approach for
consumer-based quality calculation
08/11/2018
Author : Romain BENKIRANE
Co-authors : Sébastien THOMASSEY
Co-authors : Ludovic KOEHL
Co-authors : Anne PERWUELZ
Funding : Région Hauts-de-France, ECO TLC
Overview
❖ Context
❖ Objectives
❖ Application on T-shirts
❖ Characterization & testing
❖ Yarn Characterization
❖ Fabric Characterization
❖ Performances tests & Results
❖ Consumer-based quality calculation
❖ Quality main contributors
❖ Limits and perspectives
❖ Conclusion
Context
2
Lifetime
ConsumerInherent
quality
Use phase Sensitivity to
tear of clothing
Raw
material Process
Environmental impact
LCA
Assumptions
Envionmental
labelling
Recycling fee
adjustment
Avnir 2017
Objectives
Current proposal (ADEME):
❖ Useful life (not measurable)
❖ Normative lifetime (measurable) = average lifetime measured in specifics tests
conditions
Our proposal:
❖ Evaluation of lifetime (as close as possible to useful life)
❖ Calculation of the consumer-based Quality (CQ)
𝐶𝑄 = 𝑓 𝑐𝑙𝑜𝑡ℎ𝑒, 𝑐𝑜𝑛𝑠𝑢𝑚𝑒𝑟
3
Methodology
4
Co
nsu
mer
s Survey
End of
Life
Decision
-support
system
…
…
…
…
…
…
…
…
…
…
…
…
Consume
r-based
Quality
Lifetime
Consumer
sensitivity to wear
and tear of clothing
Possible end of life
causes / product
Standards
tests
Tests
results
Structure
31 T-shirts tested
Source : national & international textile retailers
Application on Tshirts
5
31 Tshirts
26« casual »
5« Sports »
17Cotton
6Polyester
5Flax
3Blend
13
Black
3
White
5Grey
7
Dark blue
1
Beige
2
Red
Characterization & testing
6
Structure
Characterization« Performances »
Loss of colour
Loss of shape
Opened / Torn seam
Hole(s)
Pilling
Yarn Fabric
Count
Twist
Tenacity
Process
Construction
Yarn consumption
Thickness
Area density
Seam …
31 T-shirts tested
Source : national & international retailers textile
Yarn characterization
7
Yarn
Process
Ring Spinning
Wet Spinning
Rotor
MTFT
Count
(Nm)
[24 ; 85]
Twist level
Twist/m
[430 ; 950]
TenacitycN/Tex
[0,30 ; 22]
Fabric characterization
8
Fabric
Process
Weft knitting
Warp knitting
Construction
Jersey
Ribs 1*1
Thickness(mm)
[0,4 ; 0,8]
Area density(g/m²)
[115 ; 230]
Nb of Stitches / inch
[3 ; 6]
Performances tests results
9
Min Max
Colour Colour Fastness
Light -
Washing 2 5
Water 3 5
Perspiration -
Ironing (4h) 4,5 5
Rubbing dry 3,5 5
Rubbing wet 2,5 5
Shape
Dimensional stability (%)
10 wash
Column -15 3
Row -6 8
Spirality (%) 10 wash 0,5 15
Appearance -
Elasticity -
All tests have been led at Gemtex Laboratory according to ISO standards
Performances tests results
10
Min Max
Seam Seam tensile properties (N)Column 70 250
Row 50 270
Hole(s)
Bursting In progress
Fraying resistance In progress
Abrasion resistance
(martindale)In progress
Pilling
PillingBox (14000 cycles)Mass loss (%) 0 3
Gradation (/5) 3 5
Martindale (8000 cycles)Mass loss (%) -1,5 16
Gradation (/5) 1,5 5
All tests have been led at Gemtex Laboratory according to ISO standards
Consumer-based quality calculation
11
Consumer
-based
Quality
α Colour
α Shape
α Seam
α Hole(s)
α Pilling
Consumer sensitivity
to wear and tear of
clothing
Average colour results
Average shape results
Average seam results
Average hole(s) results
Average pilling results
Tests
results
Consumer sensitivity
12
Co
nsu
mer
s Survey
End of
Life
Decision
-support
system
…
…
…
…
…
…
Consumer sensitivity
to wear and tear of
clothing
Possible end of life
causes / product
850
survey
responses
Fuzzy
AHP
α Colour
15%
α Pilling
14%
α Shape
26%
α Seam
18%
α Hole(s)
27%
0,00
0,10
0,20
0,30
0,40
0,50
0,60
0,70
0,80
0,90
1,00T
S12
TS
14
TS
24
TS
28
TS
6
TS
7
TS
26
TS
25
TS
1
TS
27
TS
4
TS
10
TS
8
TS
5
TS
13
TS
30
TS
9
TS
21
TS
16
TS
29
TS
17
TS
3
TS
11
TS
22
TS
23
TS
20
TS
15
TS
2
TS
18
TS
19
TS
31
Consumer-based quality score
Tshirts comparison
Consumer-based quality score
13
! Hole(s) ( = 27% consumer sensitivity) are not taken into account yet
Bet
ter
Qual
ity
Consumer-based quality calculation
14
Consumer-
based
Quality
α Colour
α Shape
α Seam
α Hole(s)
α Pilling
Consumer sensitivity
to wear and tear of
clothing
Average colour results
Average shape results
Average seam results
Average hole(s) results
Average pilling results
Tests
results
Yarn & Fabric
Characteristics
Quality
contributors
Use of Principal component Analysis (PCA) - Analysis for 24 Tshirts
Results are exclusively valid for studied Tshirts
Quality contributors
15
Higher Quality Score
=
Thiner yarn
High nb of stitches/inch
Lower thickness & area
density
! Hole(s) are not taken
into account yet
Use of Principal component Analysis (PCA) - Analysis for Coton Tshirts (17)
Results are exclusively valid for studied Tshirts
Quality contributors
16
Higher Quality Score
=
High yarn tenacity
High nb of stitches
! Hole(s) are not taken
into account yet
Limits
❖ ~ 30 T-shirts tested➔ representativeness (material, process)
❖ Is there a need of a standard Tshirt with a standardized lifetime ?
Perspectives
❖ Short & mid term
❖ Evaluate lifetime through repeated washing cycles (in progress)
❖ Model a consumer-based quality / lifetime relation to predict lifetime
❖ Incorporate into LCA assumptions
❖ Long term
❖ Improve the methodology
❖ Wider consumer focus (fashion, emotionnal attachment, physiological tests)
Limits & perspectives
17
❖ Methodology to evaluate the lifetime
❖ Based on the consumer-based quality
❖ Depend on the manufacturing process and on the consumer
❖ Better evaluation of the lifetime to reduce the LCA assumptions
❖ Highlight of ecodesign strategies through retro engineering approach
❖ Quality contributors using the Tshirts characteristics and the calculated quality
score and data mining technique (PCA)
Conclusion
18
Thanks for your attention
Any questions ?
19