RESIN8_surfboard_lineup

SURFBOARD LINE-UPCheck out www.resin8usa.com for

current models and specs.

PERFORMANCEDURABILITYWORLD CLASS SHAPERSPROVEN DESIGNEXCEPTIONAL VALUE

Model

Size

Comments

Quad Fish Squash

5’10" x 18 3/8" x 2 1/4"

Round Pin Mini Gun Gun

Shape: Round Squash TailWidth: Tail 14" Nose 11 1/4"Rocker: Tail 2" Nose 4 5/8"

6’0" x 18 1/4" x 2 1/4"

Shape: Round Squash TailWidth: Tail 14" Nose 11"Rocker: Tail 2 3/8" Nose 4 5/8"

5'8 1/2" x 20 3/4" x 2 3/4"

Shape: Quad-Fin Fish

Small wave board with a 4 fin set up. The outline is full with more area and with a wide swallow. This board has more area to keep you on the surface of the water. The rocker is very low for speed and getting over flats.Bottom has a single concave with a double through the tail section for squirt and speed.

Info

6’0 1/2" x 18 3/8" x 2 1/4"

Shape: Round Pin TailWidth: Tail 14" Nose 11 1/8"Rocker: Tail 2 13/16" Nose 4 13/16"

All round short board proven to excel from mush all the way to heaving double overhead Escondido. This board could be considered to be the best travel board imaginable, as it will work in anything. Can grovel if needed, but will charge bigger surf for a small board. Single to double concave and medium rocker that holds the secrets of the all round performance.

6’3" x 18 1/4" x 2 1/4"

Shape: Pin TailWidth: Tail 13 5/16" Nose 10 7/8"Rocker: Tail 2 13/16" Nose 4 13/16"

This step-up board is for overhead waves and above. The round pin helps hold the board into the wave, with more rocker to keep you tight and loose in the pocket. A subtle single to double concave helps maintain speed and maneuverability in overhead surf. The ultimate board for places like Indo.

Also available:6’3" x 18 1/4" x 2 3/8"

6’4" x 18 1/4" x 2 3/16"



6’8" x 18 1/4" x 2 1/4"

Shape: Pin TailWidth: Tail 12 5/8" Nose 10 3/4"Rocker: Tail 3" Nose 5 3/8"

High performance mini gun. Very pulled in tail and nose, thin tucked rails. Slight single to pronounced double concave.


6'11 x 18 1/2 x 2 3/8 7’2" x 18 1/8" x 2 3/8"


High performance Gun, Very pulled in tail and nose, medium thick tucked rails. Slight single to double concave, with a touch of V in the nose and tail.

Wade has been shaping in Hawaii for the last 22 years. He has always made boards to suit his surroundings and, due to his proximity to the legendary north shore, he is regarded as 'THE MAN' when it comes to making big wave surfboards. He regularly makes boards for many of the top 44 WCT surfers. Riders such as Jamie O'Brien, Bruce Irons, Mick Fanning, Joel Parkinson, Occy, Manoa Drollet, Sunny Garcia and Taj Burrow, to name just a few, all favour his boards.

Nice curvy flowing outline, slight bump above the fins. Fullish tucked rails with perfect hidden thickness. Less area in the outline allows you to whip turns quicker in normal surf and the tail pod is pulled in to keep the turns tight and controlled. The rocker has more curve and a single to deep double concave creates lift and squirt making a very good beach break board; good for grovelling, but yet high performance qualities that will help it work good in decent waves as well.

Model

Size

Comments

Quad Fish Squash

5’10" x 18 3/8" x 2 1/4"

Round Pin Mini Gun Gun

Shape: Round Squash TailWidth: Tail 14" Nose 11 1/4"Rocker: Tail 2" Nose 4 5/8"

6’0" x 18 1/4" x 2 1/4"

Shape: Round Squash TailWidth: Tail 14" Nose 11"Rocker: Tail 2 3/8" Nose 4 5/8"

5'8 1/2" x 20 3/4" x 2 3/4"

Shape: Quad-Fin Fish

Small wave board with a 4 fin set up. The outline is full with more area and with a wide swallow. This board has more area to keep you on the surface of the water. The rocker is very low for speed and getting over flats.Bottom has a single concave with a double through the tail section for squirt and speed.

Info

6’0 1/2" x 18 3/8" x 2 1/4"

Shape: Round Pin TailWidth: Tail 14" Nose 11 1/8"Rocker: Tail 2 13/16" Nose 4 13/16"

All round short board proven to excel from mush all the way to heaving double overhead Escondido. This board could be considered to be the best travel board imaginable, as it will work in anything. Can grovel if needed, but will charge bigger surf for a small board. Single to double concave and medium rocker that holds the secrets of the all round performance.

6’3" x 18 1/4" x 2 1/4"


This step-up board is for overhead waves and above. The round pin helps hold the board into the wave, with more rocker to keep you tight and loose in the pocket. A subtle single to double concave helps maintain speed and maneuverability in overhead surf. The ultimate board for places like Indo.


6’4" x 18 1/4" x 2 3/16"



6’8" x 18 1/4" x 2 1/4"

Shape: Pin TailWidth: Tail 12 5/8" Nose 10 3/4"Rocker: Tail 3" Nose 5 3/8"

High performance mini gun. Very pulled in tail and nose, thin tucked rails. Slight single to pronounced double concave.


6'11 x 18 1/2 x 2 3/8 7’2" x 18 1/8" x 2 3/8"


High performance Gun, Very pulled in tail and nose, medium thick tucked rails. Slight single to double concave, with a touch of V in the nose and tail.

Wade has been shaping in Hawaii for the last 22 years. He has always made boards to suit his surroundings and, due to his proximity to the legendary north shore, he is regarded as 'THE MAN' when it comes to making big wave surfboards. He regularly makes boards for many of the top 44 WCT surfers. Riders such as Jamie O'Brien, Bruce Irons, Mick Fanning, Joel Parkinson, Occy, Manoa Drollet, Sunny Garcia and Taj Burrow, to name just a few, all favour his boards.

Nice curvy flowing outline, slight bump above the fins. Fullish tucked rails with perfect hidden thickness. Less area in the outline allows you to whip turns quicker in normal surf and the tail pod is pulled in to keep the turns tight and controlled. The rocker has more curve and a single to deep double concave creates lift and squirt making a very good beach break board; good for grovelling, but yet high performance qualities that will help it work good in decent waves as well.

Model

Size

Comments

Fish Swallow

5'11" x 19 1/8" x 2 3/16"

Squash

This board can be used by a wide range of surfers, and in many kinds of conditions and sized waves. Bit wider outline, fuller rails but not too thick, medium rocker, nice curvy outline. This board can do it all, grovel in the small mushy stuff, but can perform wonderfully in good medium size surf.

6'0" x 18 13/16" x 2 3/16"6'2" x 19 9/16" x 2 1/2"

The Resin8 Sam Egan hybrid fish combines the performance of the new school hybrid fish with Resin8 technology. Deep single to double concave bottom for speed. This board feels like it is power assisted sometimes when other boards just would not go. If you think you need to take a long board out then try this board and you will be surprised what it goes in. However it also goes ballistic in good surf too and has been tested in really solid hollow surf. Prepare to go fast on this board, everyone deserves one of these in their bag.

When starting a new surfboard company and you are considering shapers to approach where do you start? Well you start at the beginning of course, and who was there at the beginning? SAM EGAN...yes, the father of surfing legend Luke Egan. This master craftsman has been shaping boards for over forty years, which equates to more than 50,000 boards made with his own bare hands. He is so bloody good that he’s been voted one of the Top 5 surfboard shapers in Australia by his peers and he’s also been voted as one of the Top 10 best shapers on the planet.

6'1" x 19 5/16" x 2 3/8" The Pro/Fine Swallow is a unique model by itself. This board is similar to the five eleven, but has deep single to double concave, and is narrower. Can be surfed in small to medium waves, and all types of conditions. Very high performance, but can grovel well with the deep concaves and bit wider outline and slightly full rails. (150 to 175 pound surfers).

6'5" x 19 5/16" x 2 1/2" 5'10" x 17 1/2" x 2"

Grommet dream board, but could be ridden by any good surfer under 155 pounds.

6'1" x 18 5/16" x 2 3/8"

A fuller rail for slightly heavier ripper (160-180 pound surfers) and designed to work in a wide range of conditions.

6'1" x 18 1/4" x 2 1/4"

Pro model, thin, narrow and designed to go off in good waves (145 to 175 pound surfer).

6'2" x 18 3/8" x 2 5/16"

Pro model - this is the high performance shortboard for experienced surfers. This has been a consistent favourite with our team riders the world over. This is Resin8’s 6’2

6'6" x 19" x 2 1/2"

Bigger guy short board, full rails, still high performance (165 to 200 pounds surfers).

6'4" x 18 3/4" x 2 7/16"

Good wave board for bigger experienced surfer or average intermediate. Developed over 5 years with Sam, this board will ensure you have heaps of fun on those better days and will handle most conditions.It has slightly more rocker than the 6’3 and a single concave.

6'7" x 19 3/8" x 2 5/8"

Bigger guy shortboard or step down from fun board model, wider, full rails, lots of float, but still rippable (170 to 220 pound surfers).

A really versatile shortboard for the bigger guy. The board has a single concave and plenty of width through the centre and towards the tail and medium to flat rocker to ensure it can plane through those flat sections on below average waves. The width also gives it great stability making it a great board for the weekender or intermediate surfer. Ideally suited to small to head high and a half waves.

6'3" x 18 7/8" x 2 1/2"

All round shortboard for advanced bigger guys or average sized intermediates. Single concave and slightly flatter rocker so that it will perform in small conditions. It has a nice curvy outline with good width in the centre.

5’11, 6’1 and 6’5 also as Quad, subject to availability

Thruster or Quad, subject to availability

6'6" x 20 1/2" x 2 3/4"

This big fish has a single to double concave, with single running through the last 8 inches of tail The rails are very full, but not super thick.

Model

Size

Comments

Fish Swallow

5'11" x 19 1/8" x 2 3/16"

Squash

This board can be used by a wide range of surfers, and in many kinds of conditions and sized waves. Bit wider outline, fuller rails but not too thick, medium rocker, nice curvy outline. This board can do it all, grovel in the small mushy stuff, but can perform wonderfully in good medium size surf.

6'0" x 18 13/16" x 2 3/16"6'2" x 19 9/16" x 2 1/2"

The Resin8 Sam Egan hybrid fish combines the performance of the new school hybrid fish with Resin8 technology. Deep single to double concave bottom for speed. This board feels like it is power assisted sometimes when other boards just would not go. If you think you need to take a long board out then try this board and you will be surprised what it goes in. However it also goes ballistic in good surf too and has been tested in really solid hollow surf. Prepare to go fast on this board, everyone deserves one of these in their bag.

When starting a new surfboard company and you are considering shapers to approach where do you start? Well you start at the beginning of course, and who was there at the beginning? SAM EGAN...yes, the father of surfing legend Luke Egan. This master craftsman has been shaping boards for over forty years, which equates to more than 50,000 boards made with his own bare hands. He is so bloody good that he’s been voted one of the Top 5 surfboard shapers in Australia by his peers and he’s also been voted as one of the Top 10 best shapers on the planet.

6'1" x 19 5/16" x 2 3/8" The Pro/Fine Swallow is a unique model by itself. This board is similar to the five eleven, but has deep single to double concave, and is narrower. Can be surfed in small to medium waves, and all types of conditions. Very high performance, but can grovel well with the deep concaves and bit wider outline and slightly full rails. (150 to 175 pound surfers).

6'5" x 19 5/16" x 2 1/2" 5'10" x 17 1/2" x 2"

Grommet dream board, but could be ridden by any good surfer under 155 pounds.

6'1" x 18 5/16" x 2 3/8"

A fuller rail for slightly heavier ripper (160-180 pound surfers) and designed to work in a wide range of conditions.

6'1" x 18 1/4" x 2 1/4"

Pro model, thin, narrow and designed to go off in good waves (145 to 175 pound surfer).

6'2" x 18 3/8" x 2 5/16"

Pro model - this is the high performance shortboard for experienced surfers. This has been a consistent favourite with our team riders the world over. This is Resin8’s 6’2

6'6" x 19" x 2 1/2"

Bigger guy short board, full rails, still high performance (165 to 200 pounds surfers).

6'4" x 18 3/4" x 2 7/16"

Good wave board for bigger experienced surfer or average intermediate. Developed over 5 years with Sam, this board will ensure you have heaps of fun on those better days and will handle most conditions.It has slightly more rocker than the 6’3 and a single concave.

6'7" x 19 3/8" x 2 5/8"

Bigger guy shortboard or step down from fun board model, wider, full rails, lots of float, but still rippable (170 to 220 pound surfers).

A really versatile shortboard for the bigger guy. The board has a single concave and plenty of width through the centre and towards the tail and medium to flat rocker to ensure it can plane through those flat sections on below average waves. The width also gives it great stability making it a great board for the weekender or intermediate surfer. Ideally suited to small to head high and a half waves.

6'3" x 18 7/8" x 2 1/2"

All round shortboard for advanced bigger guys or average sized intermediates. Single concave and slightly flatter rocker so that it will perform in small conditions. It has a nice curvy outline with good width in the centre.

5’11, 6’1 and 6’5 also as Quad, subject to availability

Thruster or Quad, subject to availability

6'6" x 20 1/2" x 2 3/4"

This big fish has a single to double concave, with single running through the last 8 inches of tail The rails are very full, but not super thick.

RESIN8’s are at the cutting edge of surfboard technology.

In all areas we are constantly in pursuit of innovative approaches; cores, shapes, laminates, fin foils…

Our lay-up process allows us to integrate a printed substrate, the first digitally reproduced artwork to be incorporated into a production range of surfboards.

It’s pretty tech stuff but more importantly it gives the boards their cutting edge look, to match the advanced technology inside.

What's with the Big 8's?

Resin8 surfboards are made with the highest quality materials and craftsmanship possible, ensuring a board that will last for many years if properly taken care of. There are no “special or radical” requirements to keeping your Resin8 looking new and common sense is the general rule.

As with any surfboard the biggest dangers come from impact with hard and/or sharp objects, or extreme heat exposure. Resin8’s excel in holding up to both of these obstacles compared to conventional boards, but care should always be taken as all surfboards are made of very light materials and can be damaged if subjected to certain conditions.

IMPACT: Avoid all possible impact with hard and/or sharp objects. Recommendations:1. Use a board bag for protection at all times not in the water.2. Don’t surf over reef (just kidding, by all means go for it, your Resin8 will take the abuse better than most boards).3. Don’t lay board on concrete or other hard surface to wax or install fins. The paint can be scratched and outer glass layer can be damaged.4. When removing or installing fins: Extreme caution should be used to avoid puncturing glass with sharp points on fins! Fins should be raised straight up away from, or lowered straight down towards board, NOT rocked forward and back. This is a common mistake and will lead to holes in (any) board.5. Fix all dings as soon as possible to keep water from entering. (Refer to the RESIN8 Repair Guide for ding repair information).

HEAT EXPOSURE: Resin 8 surfboards are painted with a high quality automotive paint and so are impervious to the UV rays that turn ordinary boards yellow or brown. This is good news; however, use the aforementioned common sense and don’t leave your board baking in the sun all day or locked in a closed car on a very hot day as temps can reach over 200 degrees in an “auto oven”. These high temperatures can cause irreversible damage to board.

CLEANING: A household cleaner such as 409 or Windex can be used with a soft rag or paper towel to remove most dirt, oils, or marks. Ethanol (alcohol) can also be used for more stubborn marks. Do not use sandpaper as this will remove the painted finish. Periodic cleaning will keep your Resin8 looking new for years to come.

PAINT TOUCH UP: A small amount of automotive paint on a Q-tip can be used for minor touch ups. Any large areas should be sprayed by a professional. Refer to the RESIN8 Repair Guide for paint color codes.

ARTWORK: Custom artwork can be easily added by even a novice with any quality spray paint and/or stencils. WARNING: All artwork applied this way is PERMANENT and cannot be removed without sanding off or re-spraying over, so try it on something else first to make sure it looks right!

DING REPAIR: Consult Resin8’s Repair Guide for all ding repair information or use a qualified professional repair service.

ENJOY: Congratulations on your choice of the best surfboard available! We hope you have many years of enjoyment and great waves on your Resin8.

Care Guide:

Semi Gun

6'8" x 18 9/16" x 2 1/2"

Designed for larger more hollow surf the semi-gun outline and bottom keeps the speed while the pin tail allows for turns in the critical sections with no sliding out. Ideal for waves that get well over head and hollow. Sam placed just a bit more volume under the chest area for increased paddling buoyancy, so there are no excuses when that big set comes your way.

6'2" X 18 9/16" X 2 7/16"

This board is similar in shape to the squash tail series but with a slightly more pulled in rounded pin tail instead of the squash. This board is ideal for those surfers who have a tendency to overpower a squash or swallow tail through turns. Also ideal for waves that have a bit more juice or size. A good step up from the short board series when the surf gets hollow.

The Resin8 rounded pin can be ridden by surfers of all levels in a wide variety of conditions and wave size. Surfers from 150 pound surfers all the way up to 200 pounds can use the rounded pin. The round tail makes it so versatile, working well in all conditions.

Round TailModel

Size

Comments

Hybrid - Big Guy Board

7’2" x 21 1/2" x 2 13/16"

The all-round Hybrid has a single to double concave, with the double running all the way out the out to the tail. The rails are full, but refined for being a Fun Board.

This is a performance hybrid designed to suit the widest possible type and size of surfer and range of wave conditions. This board paddles like a funshape, but surfs like a shortboard. If you are looking for a board that gives maximum wavecount with shortboard performance, this board is for you. It will work from knee high to double overhead pumping days at your local point.

RESIN8’s are at the cutting edge of surfboard technology.

In all areas we are constantly in pursuit of innovative approaches; cores, shapes, laminates, fin foils…

Our lay-up process allows us to integrate a printed substrate, the first digitally reproduced artwork to be incorporated into a production range of surfboards.

It’s pretty tech stuff but more importantly it gives the boards their cutting edge look, to match the advanced technology inside.

What's with the Big 8's?

Resin8 surfboards are made with the highest quality materials and craftsmanship possible, ensuring a board that will last for many years if properly taken care of. There are no “special or radical” requirements to keeping your Resin8 looking new and common sense is the general rule.

As with any surfboard the biggest dangers come from impact with hard and/or sharp objects, or extreme heat exposure. Resin8’s excel in holding up to both of these obstacles compared to conventional boards, but care should always be taken as all surfboards are made of very light materials and can be damaged if subjected to certain conditions.

IMPACT: Avoid all possible impact with hard and/or sharp objects. Recommendations:1. Use a board bag for protection at all times not in the water.2. Don’t surf over reef (just kidding, by all means go for it, your Resin8 will take the abuse better than most boards).3. Don’t lay board on concrete or other hard surface to wax or install fins. The paint can be scratched and outer glass layer can be damaged.4. When removing or installing fins: Extreme caution should be used to avoid puncturing glass with sharp points on fins! Fins should be raised straight up away from, or lowered straight down towards board, NOT rocked forward and back. This is a common mistake and will lead to holes in (any) board.5. Fix all dings as soon as possible to keep water from entering. (Refer to the RESIN8 Repair Guide for ding repair information).

HEAT EXPOSURE: Resin 8 surfboards are painted with a high quality automotive paint and so are impervious to the UV rays that turn ordinary boards yellow or brown. This is good news; however, use the aforementioned common sense and don’t leave your board baking in the sun all day or locked in a closed car on a very hot day as temps can reach over 200 degrees in an “auto oven”. These high temperatures can cause irreversible damage to board.

CLEANING: A household cleaner such as 409 or Windex can be used with a soft rag or paper towel to remove most dirt, oils, or marks. Ethanol (alcohol) can also be used for more stubborn marks. Do not use sandpaper as this will remove the painted finish. Periodic cleaning will keep your Resin8 looking new for years to come.

PAINT TOUCH UP: A small amount of automotive paint on a Q-tip can be used for minor touch ups. Any large areas should be sprayed by a professional. Refer to the RESIN8 Repair Guide for paint color codes.

ARTWORK: Custom artwork can be easily added by even a novice with any quality spray paint and/or stencils. WARNING: All artwork applied this way is PERMANENT and cannot be removed without sanding off or re-spraying over, so try it on something else first to make sure it looks right!

DING REPAIR: Consult Resin8’s Repair Guide for all ding repair information or use a qualified professional repair service.

ENJOY: Congratulations on your choice of the best surfboard available! We hope you have many years of enjoyment and great waves on your Resin8.

Care Guide:

Semi Gun

6'8" x 18 9/16" x 2 1/2"

Designed for larger more hollow surf the semi-gun outline and bottom keeps the speed while the pin tail allows for turns in the critical sections with no sliding out. Ideal for waves that get well over head and hollow. Sam placed just a bit more volume under the chest area for increased paddling buoyancy, so there are no excuses when that big set comes your way.

6'2" X 18 9/16" X 2 7/16"

This board is similar in shape to the squash tail series but with a slightly more pulled in rounded pin tail instead of the squash. This board is ideal for those surfers who have a tendency to overpower a squash or swallow tail through turns. Also ideal for waves that have a bit more juice or size. A good step up from the short board series when the surf gets hollow.

The Resin8 rounded pin can be ridden by surfers of all levels in a wide variety of conditions and wave size. Surfers from 150 pound surfers all the way up to 200 pounds can use the rounded pin. The round tail makes it so versatile, working well in all conditions.

Round TailModel

Size

Comments

Hybrid - Big Guy Board

7’2" x 21 1/2" x 2 13/16"

The all-round Hybrid has a single to double concave, with the double running all the way out the out to the tail. The rails are full, but refined for being a Fun Board.

This is a performance hybrid designed to suit the widest possible type and size of surfer and range of wave conditions. This board paddles like a funshape, but surfs like a shortboard. If you are looking for a board that gives maximum wavecount with shortboard performance, this board is for you. It will work from knee high to double overhead pumping days at your local point.

1. Hand shaped EPS foam core 2. Hand glassed Epoxy skin

3. PVC layer6. Hand glassed Epoxy skin 2

RESIN8 Paint Color Codes:

White:2946 C

Gray:428 C

Aqua:7462 C

Teal: 319 C

Green: 375 C

Yellow: 393 C

PANTONE COLOR CODES

Dent: permanent impression, surface structure (skin) not broken. (There may or may not be slight paint cracks around perimeter).This type of ding is only cosmetic in nature and generally does not need repair.

Crack or Shallow Hole: Surface structure (skin) broken enough to let water in under glass and into first layer of PVC foam (PVC- 1/8” thick, stiff and usually dark in color)-but not deeper exposing EPS core foam. (EPS- soft white Styrofoam “bead” foam)

Deep Crack or Hole: Surface glass broken, PVC layer broken, secondary glass layer broken, allowing water to penetrate into EPS (white) core foam.

Broken board: any break across board resulting in two separated sections of board.- pieces may still be held together by some remaining glass or structure.- a “buckled” board will still be in one piece but the two pieces will move independently when force is applied, this is basically a break and the repair is very similar.

Fin or Leash plug damage: falls into either category 2 or 3 above, depending on depth and/or presence of EPS foam exposure. (plugs are surrounded by high strength PVC foam (hard and usually tan in color).

Materials and Resin compatibility:

General Ding Descriptions:

Quick Repair Instructions:These are basic instructions and should not be considered as a replacement for a professional ding repair service.

1. Dry out ding if possible. Resin will stick much better if the area is good and dry.

2. Remove any loose debris and pre-sand ding and ½” around perimeter with coarse (60-100 grit) sandpaper until paint is removed and surface is no longer shiny. Resin will only stick to a sanded surface.

3. Put some masking tape (if available) around the sanded spot to keep resin contained -(saves more sanding later). Prop up outside edges of tape (like a dam) for all fin or leash plug repairs-(see below).

4. Slightly overfill deep holes with EPS foam plug (cut to fit) and epoxy resin. (any cheap styro cooler foam or styro packing foam can be used for fill). Using all resin in a deep hole can cause overheating and will crack and emit smoke (not good). So stuff some foam in there and glue it in with epoxy. Very small holes can be filled with just resin or putty.

5. Sand previous plug down slightly lower than flush with surrounding surface to leave room for fiberglass cloth and resin.

6. Make sure you sand at least ½” extra perimeter around ding to allow cloth to extend outside of area for strength and waterproofing.

7. Re-tape around sanded area if necessary.

8. Pre cut 4 oz or 6 oz cloth patches to exactly cover sanded area (just inside tape). Use 2 layers for bottom repairs, 3 layers for deck or rail repairs.

9. Mix epoxy well and saturate area, apply cloth, saturating each layer from top as you go.

10. Squeegee or press out excess resin from cloth and smooth cloth down tight to foam, removing all air bubbles.

11. Cover (if possible) with clear plastic film. This will keep excess resin contained and makes a nice smooth sandable finish when fully cured.

12. After resin has hardened, sand area down flush with original tape being careful to not over-sand through cloth.

13. Paint with thin layer of resin (epoxy or polyester) if time permits and re-sand with fine grit sandpaper for a smoother finish.

14. Paint area with matched color automotive paint (codes listed below) using a Q-tip for small spots or spraying larger areas.

15. GO SURFING!

Repeat steps 1-3 left and also pre-sand plug.

Leash plug repair:

4. Cover top of leash plug with tape to keep resin out.5. Dry fit plug to check correct hole depth.6. Fill hole ½ way with resin. 7. Slowly push plug into hole till flush with deck.Tape down so it doesn’t float back up.8. Sand flush after cured, and remove tape.9. GO SURFING!

Fin plug repair:


4. Attach fin plug(s) to fin and fit fin to other fixed plug as well to set location. (fin and plugs should now be set in normal fin location. Make sure through measurements and careful observation that the location and fin angles are correct before mixing resin! Tape fin in place if necessary.5. Level board, and fill hole around plug(s) slowly with resin until flush with top of plug and board. Keep resin out of fin holes!6. After cure, remove fin and sand flush.7. Paint area with matched color automotive paint (codes listed below) using a Q-tip for small spots or spraying larger areas8. GO SURFING!

Broken or Buckled board repair

These are both major repairs and a qualified professional ding repair service is highly recommended. The repair explanation is very lengthy and involves many steps, and if not done exactly right, the board will no longer ride as it should. Replacing the board is usually the best option.

Fin and Leash plug repairs:

EPOXY IS RECOMMENDED FOR ALL REPAIRS

EPS (white, soft texture) foam core: USE EPOXY RESIN ONLY for all core foam repairs! Polyester resins will react and MELT EPS foam! Don’t even try it.

PVC (dark color, hard and stiff texture) surface layer sheet foam, and plug area high density (tan) foam: These foams are compat-ible with Epoxy and Polyester resins; however - EPOXY RESIN IS RECOMMENDED FOR ALL REPAIRS JUST TO BE SAFE!

(5 minute epoxy- 2 part (syringe) is readily available at any hard-ware store ($10 or less) for quick and easy small repairs. This is the fastest, easiest, and cheapest way to get back in the water. Other-wise, any good quality epoxy resin and/or epoxy putty (for fill) can be used.)

1. Hand shaped EPS foam core 2. Hand glassed Epoxy skin

3. PVC layer6. Hand glassed Epoxy skin 2

RESIN8 Paint Color Codes:

White:2946 C

Gray:428 C

Aqua:7462 C

Teal: 319 C

Green: 375 C

Yellow: 393 C

PANTONE COLOR CODES

Dent: permanent impression, surface structure (skin) not broken. (There may or may not be slight paint cracks around perimeter).This type of ding is only cosmetic in nature and generally does not need repair.

Crack or Shallow Hole: Surface structure (skin) broken enough to let water in under glass and into first layer of PVC foam (PVC- 1/8” thick, stiff and usually dark in color)-but not deeper exposing EPS core foam. (EPS- soft white Styrofoam “bead” foam)

Deep Crack or Hole: Surface glass broken, PVC layer broken, secondary glass layer broken, allowing water to penetrate into EPS (white) core foam.

Broken board: any break across board resulting in two separated sections of board.- pieces may still be held together by some remaining glass or structure.- a “buckled” board will still be in one piece but the two pieces will move independently when force is applied, this is basically a break and the repair is very similar.

Fin or Leash plug damage: falls into either category 2 or 3 above, depending on depth and/or presence of EPS foam exposure. (plugs are surrounded by high strength PVC foam (hard and usually tan in color).

Materials and Resin compatibility:

General Ding Descriptions:

Quick Repair Instructions:These are basic instructions and should not be considered as a replacement for a professional ding repair service.

1. Dry out ding if possible. Resin will stick much better if the area is good and dry.

2. Remove any loose debris and pre-sand ding and ½” around perimeter with coarse (60-100 grit) sandpaper until paint is removed and surface is no longer shiny. Resin will only stick to a sanded surface.

3. Put some masking tape (if available) around the sanded spot to keep resin contained -(saves more sanding later). Prop up outside edges of tape (like a dam) for all fin or leash plug repairs-(see below).

4. Slightly overfill deep holes with EPS foam plug (cut to fit) and epoxy resin. (any cheap styro cooler foam or styro packing foam can be used for fill). Using all resin in a deep hole can cause overheating and will crack and emit smoke (not good). So stuff some foam in there and glue it in with epoxy. Very small holes can be filled with just resin or putty.

5. Sand previous plug down slightly lower than flush with surrounding surface to leave room for fiberglass cloth and resin.

6. Make sure you sand at least ½” extra perimeter around ding to allow cloth to extend outside of area for strength and waterproofing.

7. Re-tape around sanded area if necessary.

8. Pre cut 4 oz or 6 oz cloth patches to exactly cover sanded area (just inside tape). Use 2 layers for bottom repairs, 3 layers for deck or rail repairs.

9. Mix epoxy well and saturate area, apply cloth, saturating each layer from top as you go.

10. Squeegee or press out excess resin from cloth and smooth cloth down tight to foam, removing all air bubbles.

11. Cover (if possible) with clear plastic film. This will keep excess resin contained and makes a nice smooth sandable finish when fully cured.

12. After resin has hardened, sand area down flush with original tape being careful to not over-sand through cloth.

13. Paint with thin layer of resin (epoxy or polyester) if time permits and re-sand with fine grit sandpaper for a smoother finish.

14. Paint area with matched color automotive paint (codes listed below) using a Q-tip for small spots or spraying larger areas.

15. GO SURFING!


Leash plug repair:

4. Cover top of leash plug with tape to keep resin out.5. Dry fit plug to check correct hole depth.6. Fill hole ½ way with resin. 7. Slowly push plug into hole till flush with deck.Tape down so it doesn’t float back up.8. Sand flush after cured, and remove tape.9. GO SURFING!

Fin plug repair:


4. Attach fin plug(s) to fin and fit fin to other fixed plug as well to set location. (fin and plugs should now be set in normal fin location. Make sure through measurements and careful observation that the location and fin angles are correct before mixing resin! Tape fin in place if necessary.5. Level board, and fill hole around plug(s) slowly with resin until flush with top of plug and board. Keep resin out of fin holes!6. After cure, remove fin and sand flush.7. Paint area with matched color automotive paint (codes listed below) using a Q-tip for small spots or spraying larger areas8. GO SURFING!

Broken or Buckled board repair

These are both major repairs and a qualified professional ding repair service is highly recommended. The repair explanation is very lengthy and involves many steps, and if not done exactly right, the board will no longer ride as it should. Replacing the board is usually the best option.

Fin and Leash plug repairs:

EPOXY IS RECOMMENDED FOR ALL REPAIRS

EPS (white, soft texture) foam core: USE EPOXY RESIN ONLY for all core foam repairs! Polyester resins will react and MELT EPS foam! Don’t even try it.

PVC (dark color, hard and stiff texture) surface layer sheet foam, and plug area high density (tan) foam: These foams are compat-ible with Epoxy and Polyester resins; however - EPOXY RESIN IS RECOMMENDED FOR ALL REPAIRS JUST TO BE SAFE!

(5 minute epoxy- 2 part (syringe) is readily available at any hard-ware store ($10 or less) for quick and easy small repairs. This is the fastest, easiest, and cheapest way to get back in the water. Other-wise, any good quality epoxy resin and/or epoxy putty (for fill) can be used.)

SURFBOARD LINE-UPCheck out www.resin8usa.com for

current models and specs.

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