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refreshing cleansing. THEIR DESIRE. YOUR PROMISE. OUR PURPOSE. Emerging Trends Are Changing the Way Formulators Think About and Formulate Surfactant Cleansing Products

refreshing cleansing. - Plusto · refreshing cleansing. CarBoPol ... As a result, formulators have begun using food-grade preservatives, such as sodium benzoate, to preserve cleansing

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Page 1: refreshing cleansing. - Plusto · refreshing cleansing. CarBoPol ... As a result, formulators have begun using food-grade preservatives, such as sodium benzoate, to preserve cleansing

refreshingcleansing.THEIR DESIRE.

YOUR PROMISE.

OUR PURPOSE.

Emerging Trends Are Changing the Way Formulators Think About and Formulate Surfactant Cleansing Products

Page 2: refreshing cleansing. - Plusto · refreshing cleansing. CarBoPol ... As a result, formulators have begun using food-grade preservatives, such as sodium benzoate, to preserve cleansing

refreshing cleansing.

CarBoPol® aQua SF-2 Polymer

INCI Name: Acrylates Crosspolymer-4Many traditional preservatives used in surfactant cleansing products have come under scrutiny as they have been linked to potential health issues. As a result, formulators have begun using food-grade preservatives, such as sodium benzoate, to preserve cleansing formulations. These natural preservatives require a pH near 5.0, which sacrifices desired formulation clarity and flow properties when using currently available rheology modifiers. Carbopol® Aqua SF-2 polymer enables formulators to build attractive surfactant cleansing systems at low pH.

FIGURE 1: Carbopol® Aqua SF-2 polymer performance in a 11.2 wt% TS SLES / 2.3 wt% TS CAPB surfactant system

Carbopol Aqua SF-2 polymer was designed specifically as a rheology modifier and suspension aid in formulations with pH below 6.0. Figure 2 shows the performance of Carbopol Aqua SF-2 polymer in a SLES/CAPB surfactant system (13.5 wt% TS surfactant, 2.5 wt% TS polymer). Carbopol Aqua SF-2 polymer efficiently builds viscosity while maintaining clarity at low pH.

Another benefit of Carbopol Aqua SF-2 polymer is its ability to suspend insoluble particles, allowing the formulator to make visually appealing pearlescent cleansing formulations (Figure 2).

FIGURE 2: Pearlescent cleansing formulations thickened with Carbopol® Aqua polymers and NaCl

Aged 3 months @ 45ºC

Key Benefits of Carbopol Aqua SF-2 Polymer

• Excellent clarity and suspension in low pH surfactant systems• Elegant rheology with a smooth, honey-like flow• Highly compatible with most common surfactants and sodium

benzoate• Good salt synergy• Can be post-added to batches, increasing processing

flexibility and decreasing likelihood of out-of-spec batches

the BeneFitS oF merQuat™ PluS 3330 PolymerS in SKin CleanSinG FormulationS

INCI Name: Polyquaternium-39Merquat™ PLUS 3330 polymers are widely used in body wash, facial wash and hand cleansing formulations to enhance foaming and lathering properties, as well as to mitigate surfactant irritation for improved skin suppleness and afterfeel – all benefits desired by today’s discerning consumer.

FIGURE 3: Reduction of irritation provided by 1 wt% TS Merquat™ PLUS 3330 polymer in a formulation comprised of 12 wt% active Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate, 5.5 wt% active Sodium Cocoamphodiacetate, 3.5 wt% TSCocamidopropyl Betaine, and 1.5 wt% active Isostearamidopropyl Morpholine Lactate

Key Benefits of Merquat PLUS 3330 Polymer

• Delivers rich, creamy lather in cleansing formulations• Enhances the mildness of cleansing formulations by

mitigating the irritation of common surfactants• Conditions the skin, leaving it soft and supple• Ideal for use in cleansing formulations where mildness

is desired

emerGinG trenDS are ChanGinG the Way FormulatorS thinK aBout, anD Formulate, SurFaCtant CleanSinG ProDuCtS

Today’s consumers are more cognizant than ever of the health and safety aspects of the personal care products they buy. At the same time, changes in the world economy have made these consumers more value-conscious. Thus, formulators find themselves challenged to change the way they formulate surfactant cleansing systems.

48 Hours 72 Hours 120 Hours

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1.01.52.02.53.03.54.04.55.0 Shower Gel

without Polymer

Shower Gel withMerquat™ PLUS 3330 Polymer

A. No Polymer

B. Carbopol® Aqua SF-1 Polymer

C. Carbopol® Aqua SF-2 Polymer

Page 3: refreshing cleansing. - Plusto · refreshing cleansing. CarBoPol ... As a result, formulators have begun using food-grade preservatives, such as sodium benzoate, to preserve cleansing

formulate clear systems with them. Glucamate VLT thickener is a highly efficient associative thickener for building viscosity in amino acid-based surfactant systems (Figure 6).

FIGURE 6: Associative thickening of 15 wt% TS amino acid surfactant systems with Glucamate™ VLT thickener

Key Benefits of Glucamate VLT Thickener

• Naturally derived from corn• Improved sustainability and cost-in-use• Efficient viscosity builder • Designed for anionic, amphoteric and nonionic surfactant systems• Synergistic thickening with surfactants and salt• Excellent clarity• Exceptionally mild and non-irritating to eyes and skin• Very light, pleasant skin feel

Chemoryl™ SFB-10SK SurFaCtant

INCI Name: Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate (and) Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate (and) Cocamidopropyl BetaineChemoryl™ SFB-10SK surfactant is an alkyl and alkyl ether sulfate-free, amide-free, mild multi-purpose surfactant concentrate. Its gentle, rich formula is ideally suited for premium shampoos and body washes. At 47% by weight dilution, it forms an easily rinsed shampoo with exceptional foaming. Shampoos formulated with Chemoryl SFB-10SK surfactant leave all hair types clean, soft and lustrous. Premium quality body washes may be formulated with 40-50% by weight dilution, which produces a body wash with clean rinsing, rich, thick lather.

INCI Description Function

Disodium Laureth SulfosuccinatePrimary foaming and cleansing agent

Sodium Cocoyl IsethionateMild foam builder and cleansing agent

Cocamidopropyl BetaineFoam booster, cleansing agent, irritation reducer

novethix™ l-10 Polymer

INCI Name: Acrylates/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate CopolymerMany formulators are struggling to find ways to reduce product costs by decreasing certain ingredient levels in formulations. However, formulating at reduced surfactant levels can make it difficult to thicken the formula-tion with salt while maintaining clarity.

Another trend in the market is the move toward sulfate-free surfactants, which deliver a desirable blend of mildness and pleasant sensory to formulations, but can be very difficult to thicken using salt. Novethix™ L-10 polymer has been shown to thicken sulfate-free surfactant formulations efficiently, producing elegant cleansing formulations (Figure 4).

FIGURE 4: Viscosity performance of Novethix™ L-10 polymer in a sulfate-free, non-ethoxylated surfactant system

Key Benefits of Novethix L-10 Polymer

• Delivers efficient thickening in low surfactant, economy formulations• Depending on the surfactant system, 0.5 to 1.0 wt% TS of Novethix

L-10 polymer is sufficient to obtain elegant rheology• The synergy of Novethix L-10 polymer and salt provides formulation

flexibility and excellent viscosity control• Is a liquid emulsion polymer; no heating is required and allows for

easy addition to the formulation• Maintains stable viscosity, even at elevated temperatures

neW GluCamate™ vlt thiCKener

INCI Name: PEG-120 Methyl Glucose Trioleate (and) PropanediolGlucamate™ VLT thickener builds viscosity in surfactant systems through an associative mechanism. By forming bridges between surfactant micelles, Glucamate VLT thickener reduces the critical micelle concentration (CMC) of surfactants, decreasing the amount of free surfactant monomer and reducing the irritancy of the formulation (Figure 5).

FIGURE 5: Glucamate™ VLT thickener reduces the dermal irritancy of an SLES-2/SLS/CAPB surfactant blend

In an effort to formulate milder products, formulators are looking at using amino acid-based surfactants. Amino acid surfactants do not build viscosity as efficiently as do traditional surfactants, they do not in many cases synergistically thicken with salt, and it can be challenging to

Lubrizol offers formulation solutions for today’s hair and body cleansing products. Deliver mildness, elegant flow, and attractive visual aesthetics to your formulations.

For product details, more information, samples and starting formulations visit www.lubrizol.com/personalcare

Page 4: refreshing cleansing. - Plusto · refreshing cleansing. CarBoPol ... As a result, formulators have begun using food-grade preservatives, such as sodium benzoate, to preserve cleansing

PR-0001 2012031.5K

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www.lubrizol.com/personalcare

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