Provisions: Winter Squash

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  • 8/14/2019 Provisions: Winter Squash

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    54 OCTOBER 2008 | sanT|

    Experiment tion wit t i old vorite in pired n ever-exp nding li t o de ir ble litie nd ple ing combin tion .T e v riety, n rp ed ver tility, nd comp nion bility witot er e on l ingredient llow to ppe r on every p rt o re t r nt ll men , rom ppetizer to de ert .

    And long el li e en re it delivery t ro g o t t e veget ble- t rved winter mont , nd t t m ke t e gorgeogo rd per t r ingredient or t e ever-b rgeoning cook-loc lmovement. Be t o ll, or t e b rg in price o bo t one doll r po nd, c e c n end t e omey rom o t ro gt eir dining room nd evoke t eir g e t ( nd t eir own) be t t te memorie .

    Daily VarietyBeyond Americ reigning vorite corn nd b ttern tt ere re lmo t endle v rietie o , r nging rom t e

    W en I w growing p, my

    mot er wo ld cook . S e wo ld get t em rom t e m rket on Feder l Hill, plit corn , nd p t in b tter nd browng r nd b ke t em. And t t w re l tre t, remember Jody

    Ad m , Providence, R ode I l nd, n tive nd c e /owner o Ri lto in C mbridge, M c ett . Jeremy Sew ll, c e /ownero Line ge in Brookline, M c ett , rec ll cooking corn

    or t e r t time yo ng c lin ry t dent. J t brownb tter nd ro ted it w one o t o e e rek moment .Weve m de omet ing o imple. How c n it t te t i good?e rec ll .

    butternut

    kabocha

    sweet dumpli

    spaghetti

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    more m in tre m type , c H bb rd, delic t , t rb n, ndk boc , to t e extr ordin ry, incl ding A tr li n bl e ndred k ri. T ey come in every conceiv ble ize nd color ndrom ne rly every continent. I c nj t rom o r loc l growerprob bly come p wit ten di erent v rietie , e tim te

    Jon ton Lome, c e de c i ine t t e Az re Re t r nt t t e Intercontinent l Toronto Centre. He get i ndm c o i ot er prod ce rom Cook town Green , w ic iloc ted in T ornton, Ont rio, bo t n o r drive nort o i re t r nt.

    Cook town Green Owner D vid Co lmeyer i ormerc e . He tried growing m ny o t e 85 v rietie o winter

    o ered by B ker Creek Heirloom Seed in M n eld,Mi o ri. (Fi teen v rietie were v il ble rom B ker Creekor t e r t time t i e on, nd ot er re dropped ro tinely rom t e comp ny c t log li t.) Co lmeyer look peci c lly

    or t e litie t t c e ppreci te nd pop l rized m ny v rietie in t i w y. A c e tn t ptly n medi dry,ric , weet, nd rom tic, e y . Kik z i J p ne e v riety

    wit t n kin nd or nge fe . It ort o picy f vor, not bl nd like ome ot er , lmo t cinn mony.

    Di erent v rietie re pr i ed or t eir ni e c r cteri tic .W t n rr y o color nd text re . T ey e c ve t eir ownper on lity, J n Greer excl im . S e nd er b nd oper teUp t te F rm , 35 cre in Red Hook, New York, nd deliverprod ce to c gre t D niel Bo l d nd D n B rber o ten t ree time week. All [ ] o er little omet ingdi erent: vory, medi m weetne , inten e weetne ,moot ne . . . e tr il o . Lome c tegorize t eir ttrib teb ed on ow t ey be ve in recipe . Some re little t rc iert n ot er . Some re m c den er, rder , w ere omere m c o ter nd will cook m c e ier, e y .

    provisions | By A ley Brenon

    delicata

    acorm

    Awash in squash

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    Just Gourd-geousT e v riety o nd lengt o time it been tored rector t t contrib te to t e veget ble w ter content, key ttrib te in determining ow t e will be ed. T o e

    wit ig er w ter content re good or o p , Greer o er .Drier-fe ed v rietie erve ot er p rpo e . Yo c n e

    [t o e] or lot o t ing t t yo dont w nt lot o li id or,like i yo re m king p t or gnocc i, gge t L rPen iero. A c e , regi tered dietiti n, nd cookbook t or, eown Gigi Tr ttori in R inebeck, New York well ever lot er ood-rel ted enterpri e in t e H d on V lley. W en

    yo c t t ro g t em, i t ey re re lly re , yo re going toee t e w ter be ding o t o t em. I it j t look t rc y ndnorm l, it i little older, Pen iero decl re .

    M ny c e believe b ttern t e rned t e top pot mongt e mo t- ed v rietie . It tremendo ly d pt ble. I ve it n ice cre m. I ve d it o p. I ve d it m de into weet component to be erved wit oie gr . T e ver tility

    o it c nt be be t, Lome rel te . In ddition, w en toredproperly, it l t r longer t n m ny ot er v rietie . Benj minS te, rom He rty Root Comm nity F rm in Tivoli, New York,pplie m c o t e prod ce or Gigi Tr ttori . He commented

    in J ly on t e l ting lity o b ttern t . T e b ttern te peci llyI m pretty re I till ve b ttern t rom l t ye ron my el yo c n re lly get w y wit toring t em or long time in t e rig t condition .

    Delic t , on t e ot er nd, wit t eir yellow- nd-green kinnd or nge-colored melonlike fe , S te recommend e tinge rly. Yo c n tore or little w ile, nd in per ect condition ,t eyll do pretty well. B t I wo ldnt recommend toring t em

    or ny more t n co ple o week or mont , e y . Ad menjoy delic t or being j t lig tly o t o t e ordin ry. S eprep re t em or doe vre . I peel t em, c t t em intot in ring , dip t em into temp r b tter, nd ry t em t e w y

    yo wo ld nd on J p ne e o p, Ad m reve l .

    Menu Maven At t e me time t t e c v riety ex ibit it own well-de nedtr it , e re well known or t eir imil ritie . Once c em ter ew -rel ted kill , t ey c n m ke m ny di e .T e me ort o met odpeel, eed, nd ro t or b tter-

    n t c n be pplied to p g etti or H b-b rd , Pen iero ex-pl in . From t o e ro ted

    veget ble yo co ld ve

    ide di on it own. Or t o ero ted veget ble co ld gointo ri otto, or t ey co ldgo into ritt t , or t ey co ld go into p t , econtin e . Yo ve yo rb e, nd t en yo ve lot o option rom t ere. F rt er-more, one type o c n o ten be b tit ted or not erin recipe . W ldy M lo , c e /co-owner o Be con Re t r nt & B r in New York City, remember opening i r t re t r nt,t e H d on River Cl b, on T nk giving D y, 1989. One o t e r t di e t t w gely cce l nd i till cce l,

    even now, lmo t 20 ye r l teri p mpkin- pple o p wem de t en. And we wo ld v ry t t by m king b ttern t ndpe r one.

    Bec e m ny e c n be ed lmo t interc nge bly,Co lmeyer recommend dding t e more exotic v rietie tot e men . O ten t ey re prep red t e me w y nd m y evenlook t e me more convention l type , b t t ey dd intrig e.I yo p t o p on t e men , no one will order it,Co lmeyer expl in . C l b z o p, on t e ot er nd, i likely to be m jor it. Yo ll get omet ing ni e t t everyone

    will like or ten cent on t e pl te, Co lmeyer reve l .

    Down on the Farm A Co lmeyer gge t , doe t ke ome getting ed to.He believe t t t e nple ntne ometime oci ted witt e f vor i likely re lt o poor commerci l growing pr ctice .

    According to Co lmeyer, beet nd prod ce t e men mber o eemingly ig - lity r it even w en grown on t ermer wor t eld . T ing t te better w en t ey re grown

    in t e be t oil, nd in , it re lly ow p, e expl in .Bec e commerci l rmer re p id t e me mo nt reg rdle o t te, t ey o ten dont prioritize t e pl cement o beet nd .

    Thi g th t grow together go well

    together. If you were ervi g ro ted qu h with pork te derloi , it would be very e y todd ro t pple .

    Jody ad m

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