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IN THIS ISSUE:
Horticulture Class Schedules
Winterize Rain Barrels
Musings of a Master Gardener
Winter Squash and recipe
Winter Bird Feeding
Calling all Beekeepers
Adopt a Kentucky Tree
Lorilee George
Lorilee George Bullitt County Extension Agent for Horticulture
Bullitt County Extension
384 Halls Lane, Shepherdsville, KY 40165
(502) 543-2257— Fax: (502) 543-6940
www.bullitt.ca.uky.edu
Upcoming Council Meetings:
Master Gardeners’
February 5th at 6 PM
March 5th at 10 AM
Beekeeping
February 13th at 7 PM
March 13th at 7 PM
Extension Council
January 29th at 7 PM
January
1/15/19 6pm Soils 1/18/19 10-2pm Soils & Composting
1/23/19 10-2pm Intro, Botany & LAB 1/25/19 6pm Botany & LAB
2/6/19 10-2pm Organic & Vegetable Gardening
2/19/19 6pm Organic Gardening 2/27/19 10-2pm Entomology & Vertebrate Pest
2/28/19 6pm Entomology
3/15/19 10-2pm Indoor Plants, Propagation & LAB
3/19/19 6pm Plant Propagation & LAB
3/26/19 10-2pm Pesticides, Plant Pathology & LAB 3/27/19 6pm Pesticides
Pre-register for all Horticulture classes, to avoid cancellations 543-2257
MARK YOUR CALENDARS and Register for our 2019 Classes
Alternative Master Gardener Syllabus:
Toolbox open to Public:
2/1/19 6pm Landscape Design 1 2/13/19 7pm Beekeepers Association Meeting 2/15/19 6pm Landscape Design 2 2/25/19 6pm Fruit Production Series - Orchard 3/4/19 6pm Fruit Production Series - Tree sprays 3/8/19 6pm Landscape Design 3 3/13/19 7pm Beekeepers Association Meeting 3/22/19 6pm Landscape Design 4
An important garden task, if you have not winterized yet it can’t hurt to invest 15
minutes to detach your barrel and reconnect the standard downspout to route storm
water away from your home.
Inspect for damage, if any ice remains in the barrel, roll it into full sun and open all
valves.
Once everything has thawed and emptied, remove all components, clean hoses,
spigots, and mesh components, and the barrel itself. Store the barrel upside down
and keep it out of the sun light.
Musings of a Master Gardener by Barb Moore
Last year while in casual conversation with a
prospective Master Gardener candidate, the
subject of Monarch Butterflies came up. The
candidate said that she is trying to attract
Monarchs to her landscape. In my 40 odd
years of living in Kentucky, I have never seen
one in the wild. Yes, I have seen them in their
butterfly, caterpillar and chrysalis stages at
IdleWild Butterfly Farm, but never in the wild.
I was lucky
enough to see
both Monarch
butterflies and
caterpillars
during my recent
trip to Northern
Wisconsin. While
visiting family this past July, I was struck by
the amount of Common Milkweed (Asclepias
syriaca) that is growing there. I saw it along
the sand shores of Lake Superior, in ditch lines
along country roads, mixed into wood lands
and even in well maintained private and public
gardens. A real effort to help the pollinators,
especially the Monarch Butterfly, is very much
evident in that area.
I have tried to make
my home landscape
pollinator friendly
over the years
using a variety of
perennials that
bloom from spring
to frost. I even have planted Butterfly Weed
(Asclepias tuberoa), which I planted originally
because I love the bright orange flower
clusters. Even though I know that the Monarch
Caterpillar only feeds on milkweed, that was
not my motivation
to include several
plantings within my
landscape.
Over the years I
have seen many an
insect, caterpillar, butterfly and moth frequent
my Butterfly
Weed. Some
strip the
leaves as
food, some
gather pollen
and nectar
and I
tolerate all of them as I know they are
necessary for the big picture of life.
This season, during my daily routine of
inspecting, weeding and watering my many
flower gardens I was ecstatic to find, yep you
guessed it, a Monarch caterpillar happily
munching away on one of my Butterfly Weed
plants.
On closer
inspection I saw
that it had
already eaten
most of the
leaves off
another plant. I
hurried back to the house and got my camera
as I wanted to document this special occasion.
My first Monarch sighting in Kentucky, yes it
was just the caterpillar stage but a Monarch
none the less. The next morning it was still
munching its way through another plant. More
than likely I will not get the chance to see the
next two stages of its life. Hopefully I will get
to see all the stages next year as the Monarchs
Common Milk Weed
Buttterfly Weed
Monarch Caterpillar, LaPointe WI
Milkweed Tiger Moth Caterpillar
Mt. Washington KY
9-2016
Monarch Caterpillar
Mt. Washington KY
pass through Kentucky. I would like that a lot,
but then it does not take much to make this
Master Gardner happy.
Winter Squash
The squash family (Cucurbitaceae) includes
pumpkins, summer squash and winter squash.
Varieties come in a wide range of flavors and
textures. They have tough outer shells, but
they do not all look the
same. They can be
smooth, bumpy, thin or
thick, and hard with a
wide array of colors. The
most popular winter
squashes are acorn,
buttercup, butternut,
calabaza, delicata,
Hubbard, spaghetti, sweet dumpling, and
Terk's Turban but there are many more.
Growing Squash Rich organic, well-drained
soils are required to grow squash. Organic
matter, such as compost or aged manure will
help increase uptake of water and nutrients and
give plants a good start. New garden sites
should be amended with at least 4 to 5 inches
of good organic matter and then tilled 8 to 10
inches into the native soil. The ideal soil
should be slightly acidic (between a pH of 5.8
and 6.8). Squash is a tender vegetable so the
seeds do not germinate in cold soil. Seedlings
are injured by frost. Do not plant until all
danger of frost is past and soil is thoroughly
warmed.
When planning seed to purchase, this chart can
help you decide the size of fruit you can
manage:
Vines require at least 50 to 100 square feet per
hill, give giant Pumpkins more space.
Plant seeds one inch deep (four or five seeds
per hill). Allow 5 to 6 feet between hills. When
the young plants are well-established, thin
each hill to the best two or three plants. Allow
7 to 12 feet between rows.
Winter squash are a warm-season vegetable
that can be grown in most of the country. They
differ from summer squash because they are
harvested and eaten in the mature fruit stage,
when the seeds within have matured fully.
80 to 120 days are required to mature winter
squash. It is mature when fruits are fully
colored, vines are starting to die back, and the
rind is hard and resistant to scratches with
fingernails. Matured fruits should be harvested
with the stem attached and stored in a cool
dark location, kept at 50 to 55 degrees F.
Common Problems Cucumber beetles
attack seedlings, vines and both immature and
mature fruits. They can be controlled with an
insecticide applied weekly either as a spray or
Spaghetti
1-4 lb 6-12 lb 15-40 lb 50-100 lb
Acorn Banana Blue Hubbard Big Max
Butternut &
Buttercup
Cushaw Boston Marrow Mammoth
Delicata Hubbard Jumbo Pink
Banana
Spaghetti Jack o Lantern
Sugar Pie
Mt. Washington KY 8-20-18
Monarch Caterpillar
dust. There is usually a peak in beetle activity
each spring that lasts two to four weeks. This
is the most important time to control the
beetles. Squash bugs attack vines as the fruit
begin to set and
increase in
numbers
through the late
summer, when
they can be
quite damaging
to maturing
fruit. They hatch
and travel in groups, which seem to travel in
herds until they reach maturity. Using the
proper insecticide when the numbers of this
pest are still small minimizes damage.
The university has helpful entomology fact
sheets if you need specific assistance
overcoming either of these pests, ENT-313
and ENT-311, let us know if you need copies
543-2257.
Harvest Winter squash is planted in the
spring, grows all summer and is always
harvested at the mature stage in early autumn
before the first frost. Immature winter squash
lacks flavor, so wait until the rind is hard.
Harvest winter squash with two inches of stem
remaining. A stem cut too short is like an open
wound, which will cause early decay.
Harvest sturdy, heavy squashes with fairly
glossy skin unblemished by soft spots, cuts,
breaks or uncharacteristic discoloration. Most
winter squash benefits from a curing stage; the
exceptions are acorn, sweet dumpling and
delicata. Curing is simply holding the squash
at room temperature (about 70 degrees) for 10
to 20 days.
Buttercup and banana squash store longer than
butternut and acorn squash. Winter squash can
be baked, steamed, simmered or mashed.
Winter squash does freeze well (peel, cut into
cubes and remove seeds; cook covered in
water until soft; mash it and pack into containers
leaving a 2-inch headspace; it will keep about a
year).
The smaller acorn and butternut do not store as
well, only up to 3 months. Store cut pieces of
winter squash in the refrigerator. Refrigeration is
too humid for whole squash, and they will
deteriorate quickly.
Wash the fruit with soapy water containing one
part chlorine bleach to ten parts water. This will
remove soil and kill pathogens on the surface.
Be sure fruits are well dried before storage.
After curing, transfer to a cool (45 to 50
degrees), dry place such as the basement or
garage for long term storage. Do not allow them
to freeze. The large hard rind winter squashes
can be stored for up to six months under these
conditions.
Herbs and spices used to enhance the flavor of
winter squashes include garlic, nutmeg, ginger,
cinnamon, basil, parsley and ground cloves.
Sweeten squash pulp with maple syrup, honey,
brown sugar, or orange juice concentrate.
Squash Bread Recipe Equally delicious for
breakfast, snack or as a light dessert, this honey
sweetened loaf can be spread with low-fat cream
cheese or whipped
butter.
Preheat your oven
to 350o.
On a plate, sift
together the first
six ingredients,
set aside.
1. In a large bowl, mix oil, sugar and honey
together until light and fluffy.
2. Beat in egg and egg white. Add squash puree
and beat until smooth.
3. Fold in dry ingredients. Turn into a greased
9x5 inch loaf pan.
4. Bake until golden brown and a wooden
skewer inserted in the center comes out
clean, about one hour. Remove from the
oven, let stand in pan 10 minutes. Turn out
onto a wire cooling rack to cool.
Optional Nut Topping :
2 tablespoons melted butter or margarine,
1/2 cup finely chopped pecans or walnuts.
Pour melted butter over the top and sprinkle
with chopped nuts.
Let bread cool before dusting with powdered
sugar.
To warm:
Wrap thick slices
in a paper towel
and microwave
for 15 to 20
seconds on high.
2 cups all-purpose flour 1 tsp baking soda
1/2 teaspoon salt 1 tsp ground cinnamon
1 teaspoon ground ginger 1/4 tsp ground nutmeg
1/4 cup butter or margarine 1 cup sugar
1/2 cup honey 1 egg plus 1 egg white
1 1/4 cup pureed cooked Powdered sugar
Winter Bird Feeding
Feeding birds is a great way to brighten a
dreary winter day, and also provides a source
of entertainment and enjoyment. Action,
color, drama, song; it's all there at your
feeder. You'll get to know the regulars and,
if you're lucky, you'll be rewarded with
surprise visits from birds not usually found
in your area. Where you set your feeders,
how much protective cover each species
prefers, and the amount of water you offer
affect utilization of a specific feeder.
Initially, choices can seem overwhelming.
Here are some considerations to begin or
modify your bird feeding program.
Remember that no one type of seed, or
feeder, is preferred by all birds.
The variety of seed you provide, determines
the birds attracted to your feeder. Over 20
types of seeds are sold as birdseed. The best
all-round is probably the small, black-oil
sunflower seed. It costs a little more but is
preferred by many smaller bird species,
including chickadees, nuthatches, and
titmice. Black-oil sunflower seed has a high
oil content that is nutritionally important for
birds, and a thin seed coat that is easy for
them to crack open. If you are focusing on
one seed to provide, black-oiled sunflower
is the obvious choice.
The striped
sunflower seed is
slightly larger and
very popular with
blue jays and
cardinals, but it is
difficult for many
smaller species to
crack open.
Sunflower seeds usually are provided in a
hanging feeder. A disadvantage of sunflower
seeds is that birds eat only the hearts,
dropping hulls on the ground, creating a
mess under the feeder. You may buy hulled
sunflower seeds, which come without the
seed coat. These are more expensive but
without the mess. A higher variety of seed
will attract a higher variety of species. Other
popular seed types include white proso
millet, niger, and peanuts.
White proso millet is cheap and attracts
dove, house
sparrows
and brown-
headed
cowbirds.
Niger or
thistle seed
is popular
because of
its
attractiveness to goldfinches, house finches,
and purple finches. Niger seed is very small
and usually offered in a special feeder with
small holes for dispensing the seeds.
Peanuts attract blue jays, chickadees,
titmice, and woodpeckers. They can be
offered as shelled kernels, in the shell, or as
peanut hearts--the small chips left when
peanut halves are broken apart. These small
hearts are valuable and can be eaten by
many smaller
species of
birds.
Many feed and
implement
stores sell a
bagged mix
Niger or Thistle Seed
that allows you to provide a variety of seed.
When purchasing a mix, look at the content
label.
Birds can tell
the difference
among seeds.
Some of the
inexpensive
commercial
mixes contain
items such as
wheat, milo,
hulled oats,
rice, and rye
seed that are
not attractive
to birds. If you
have used
these mixes in the past, you may have
noticed how the birds sorted through the
mix, selecting the seeds they preferred and
discarding the rest.
Aside from seed, you can offer other types
of foods to enhance the attractiveness of
your feeding station. Suet is a high-quality
fat that is highly sought-after in winter. It is
particularly attractive to woodpeckers,
chickadees, nuthatches, and titmice. Suet is
sold at grocery stores in the meat section. It
can be hung in a mesh bag (often provided
with the suet) or you can buy special suet
feeders. Processed suet cakes are available
at many stores that sell bird feeding
supplies. These cakes may contain other
pieces of seed and fruit and are processed so
that they don't turn rancid in warmer
weather.
Above is a "Marvel Meal" recipe fun for
children to make, and is a favorite of several
species of birds. It can be pressed into the
holes of a log feeder or smeared directly
onto the bark of trees. Marvel Meal can be
frozen into blocks and put in a suet feeder,
or sliced into chunks and placed on a feeder
tray. When you make your own, you can stir
in more or less of an ingredient, and control
consistency. Making your own also allows
you to shape or mold, then freeze into
specific shapes.
Image the garden roof coop
Marvel Meal Recipe
1 cup peanut butter
1 cup vegetable shortening
4 cups corn meal
1 cup flour
Handful seeds or nuts
Google Image
Types of Feeders
To increase diversity of visitors, consider
providing a variety of feeder types, at varied
heights. Ideal feeders are sturdy and tight so
that they stay put and do not allow water in.
Feeders should be easy to assemble and
clean. The three main types of feeders are
hopper (or house feeders), tube feeders, and
tray (or platform feeders).
A hopper feeder looks like a house with
Plexiglas sides on top of a platform where
the seed is dispensed as birds eat it. The
Plexiglas makes it easy to tell when more
seed needs to be added. Seed is protected
against the weather but not so well against
squirrels.
Tube
feeders
are hollow
Plexiglas
cylinders
with
multiple
feeding
ports and perches. These hanging feeders
attract species that typically feed off the
ground, and perch size can influence which
species use them. Large birds need large
perches, whereas small birds can feed on
either large or small perches. You
can attach a tray to the bottom to
catch scattered seeds and to allow
larger species to feed.
Tray or platform feeders are simply
flat, raised surfaces on which you
spread seed. Easy to make, they are
one of the most popular feeders.
Birds that typically feed on the
ground are particularly attracted to
this type of feeder. A disadvantage of
platform feeders is that they provide little
canopy for safety, are not squirrel proof, or
weather resistant. They should have drainage
holes for water and need to be cleaned often
to remove bird droppings. Only one day's
worth of food should be put out at a time.
Aside from these three primary types, there
are various specialty feeders, including those
designed specifically for suet, thistle,
peanuts, mealworms, and fruit.
Feeder Placement
When selecting a site for establishing your
feeding station, consider feeder placement
from your point of view and the birds. Your
feeders should be visible to you from inside
your house and offer safety for the birds.
With this in mind, place feeders near a
favorite window and within 10 feet of pro-
tective cover, such as trees and shrubs. Most
birds don't like to venture far from cover that
gives them protection from the elements, a
safe retreat, and a place to perch while
eating or resting between feeder visits.
Water
Along with providing food for birds, it is a
good idea to supply a source of water that
birds can use for drinking and bathing.
Species you don’t normally see at your
feeder, will come to water. Birdbaths come
in a variety of sizes, shapes, and prices.
You can buy them at most lawn and garden
stores or make them at home with a variety
of materials. A non-slippery surface is
required and a depth of no more than three
inches. Plastic saucers used under large
plants make excellent birdbaths. You can
also use a garbage can lid with a few stones
placed inside.
Cold winter temperatures can mean a time
of drought for birds, so water becomes
particularly attractive to birds in winter.
Heaters to keep the water from freezing are
available at stores that sell bird feeding
supplies. When your birdbath is placed near
overhanging branches, birds also have a
place to sit and preen after bathing. Where
cats are present, place the bath away from
dense shrubbery where cats can hide and
surprise the birds, experiment with height
and location.
The type of habitat around your home
influences the number of birds visiting your
feeder. The greatest diversity appears at
feeders in wooded rural areas, whereas the
smallest comes to feeders in urban areas.
Use field guides, bookstores, libraries and
the internet to help you identify new birds
this winter.
Calling all Beekeepers
We have some great news! Bullitt County
now has an official beekeeper association that
meets on the second Wednesday of each
month at the Bullitt County Extension office at
7 pm. The time may change if we are having a
field day at a local apiary or bee yard.
If you are a beekeeper, want to be a beekeeper,
or are just curious about honey bees, please
come join us.
The fee for
membership is
$15.00 per year
per household.
You do not
have to be
a member
to attend
meetings.
If you are
interested in
keeping bees,
now is the time
to order your bees. Some people order
package bees and some order nucleus colonies,
which are five frame starter colonies. Orders
placed now, are available in the spring. There
are various bee supply companies and
individuals that you can purchase your bees
from.
It is also time to prepare your beehive boxes
and get together all the equipment needed to
keep your bees so that everything is ready
when the bees arrive in the spring.
Check out our Facebook page, “Bullitt
County Beekeepers Association”. Post your
bee questions and get information.
Adopt-A-Kentucky-Tree
By Laurie Thomas, UK Extension Forester, U of K
Department of Forestry and Natural Resources
Bundle up and get some brisk air, because this
is still a good time to get outside and enjoy
nature. While you are out enjoying nature
consider adopting a tree. Adopt-a-Kentucky-
Tree is a hands-on project that provides you
and your family a simple way to highlight a
tree that has enhanced your life. Participation
in this project helps you become more aware
of the many ecosystem services that your tree
provides you and your community. All you
need is a favorite tree, access to the internet, a
tape measure, camera, and a calculator. Follow
this link for step-by-step instructions on the
internet at: https://ufi.ca.uky.edu/adopt-a-tree
This is a good time to gain and implement tree
identification skills. The Adopt-a-Kentucky-
Tree program was developed by the University
of Kentucky Urban Forest Initiative as a way
to get the public engaged with the trees in their
community.
The program utilizes the National Tree Benefit
Calculator (NTBC) which is a tool based on
the U.S. Forest Service's i-Tree (http://
www.itreetools.org/) street tree assessment
tool.
By entering locations, species and tree sizes,
users gain an understanding of the environ-
mental and economic value trees provide on an
annual basis. The Calculator will provide you
the following environmental and economic
values of your tree:
• Storm water run-off the tree intercepts
each year.
Property value the tree adds to your home
or favorite surroundings.
• Energy reported as the conservation of
kilowatt hours of electricity for cooling.
Trees modify the climate and conserve
building energy use by shading which
reduces the amount of heat absorbed by
a building and tree canopies slow down
winds thus reducing the amount of heat
lost from a home.
• Air quality benefits such as absorbing
pollutants, intercepting particulate
matter and releasing oxygen through
photosynthesis.
• Atmospheric carbon dioxide reduction in
pounds annually based on tree size. Trees
lock-up or sequester CO2 in the roots,
trunks, stems and leaves while they are
growing and in wood products after they
are harvested.
Each of these environmental and economic
parameters are totaled to give you the overall
benefit of your adopted tree at its current size.
Once you have chosen your tree, measured
it and determined its ecosystem services you
then "register" your tree on the
Adopt-a-Kentucky-Tree site to share with
others. This is a great activity to do with your
family, community, or youth group you may
be working with. It is a great way to get out
and enjoy nature, enjoy our trees, learn more
about their benefits and then share with others
in the community. You knew that was a great
tree, now this tool allows you to share it with
others!
If you enjoyed this article and want more in-
formation about trees, The Woodland Owners
Short Course (WOSC) is designed to assist
Kentucky’s woodland owners in the care and
management of their woodland resource. It is
conducted on a regional basis with a wide
variety of subjects at Saturday programs in the
East, Central, and West regions of the state.
The WOSC offers two programming tracks:
Green for woodland owners just getting started
and Gold for those already actively managing
their woodlands. The WOSC is one of the best
woodland owner educational opportunities
available in the state and anyone with an
interest in forestry or wildlife will benefit from
attending. Register early, space is limited.
Wondering which track you should attend?
Use the image below to review the statements
provided. This helps you to identify which
tract fits your experience and interest levels.
After you have selected the tract with two or
more statements that will fit your needs, and
you know what you wish to focus on, then you
will register for that educational track on this
website: https://forestry.ca.uky.edu/wosc
Each tract is led by Kentucky forestry and nat-
ural resources experts. If you determine the
Green track best meets your needs, consider
inviting a friend to attend the gold, so that you
may exchange information.
https://forestry.ca.uky.edu/wosc
Master Gardeners’
11th Annual Garden Art & Plant Sale
Saturday - April 27th, 2019 Rain or Shine 8 AM to 2 PM
Bullitt County
Cooperative Extension Office
384 Halls Lane, Shepherdsville, KY 40165
Over 30 vendors selling
Vegetables,
herbs, fish,
aquatics, flowers,
tropicals and yard art.
Call 543-2257 for information Vendor Booths $25.00