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UTTAR PRADESH TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY INSTITUTE KANPUR (Formerly Known as GCTI) 11/208, Souterganj, Parbati Bangla Road, Kanpur GUIDED BY:- MR. VIJAY KUMAR GUPTA(WEAVING MANAGER) A PROJECT REPORT ON FABRIC DEFECTS Fabric Defect is a serious problem in weaving department which detoriate the quality of fabric and overall production of fabric reduces. DEEPENDRA, DEEPAK, AJAY 7/26/2010

Project Report on Fabric Faults(Arvind Mills 2010)

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Page 1: Project Report on Fabric Faults(Arvind Mills 2010)

UTTAR PRADESH TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY INSTITUTE

KANPUR (Formerly Known as GCTI)

11/208, Souterganj, Parbati Bangla Road, Kanpur

GUIDED BY:- MR. VIJAY KUMAR GUPTA(WEAVING MANAGER)

A PROJECT REPORT ON FABRIC DEFECTS Fabric Defect is a serious problem in weaving department which detoriate the quality of fabric and overall production of fabric reduces. DEEPENDRA, DEEPAK, AJAY 7/26/2010

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AT

ARVIND MILLS LTD.

DIVISION OF ARVIND PRODUCT LTD.

(SANTEJ, AHMEDABAD)

DURATION

15th

June 2010 to 26th July 2010

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SUBMITTED BY-

AJAY KUMAR (TT)

DEEPAK RATHOUR (TE)

DEEPENDRA KUMAR (TE)

UTTAR PRADESH TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY

INSTITUTE, KANPUR (U.P.)

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ACKNOWLEDGEMENT

First of all We are very thankful to our institute (U.P.T.T.I.) for

providing us the opportunity for getting the practical knowledge as well, under the direction of our most respected director Mr. PRAMOD KUMAR Sir. We have got full support & instructions from Mr. M.K. SINGH Sir for the preparation of the project during training. We have also got full support from all professors & lecturers of Our institute.

We are also very thankful to whole Arvind Group for providing us the

best facility & good environment during the training period. We express our gratitude to each & every employee of Arvind Group for their co-operation & their most valuable time.

We would like to express our gratitude towards Mr. Shubhanish

Malhotra sir (Human Resource) for his co-operation. We pay our thanks to Mr. Vijay Kumar Gupta sir, Who gave his valuable time & attention during training. His instructions are very beneficial for getting the practical knowledge.

Last but not the least, We would like to thank other employees also for

their co-operation, guidance & providing useful data, namely Mr. S.A. Bhatiya, Mr. Sandeep Banerjee, Mr. Partha, Mr. Vijay sir, Mr. Deepak Berman, Mr. Prajapati, Mr. Pankaj, & Others.

(THANKS TO ALL)

AJAY KUMAR DEEPAK RATHOUR

Deependra kumar

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INDEX

S.NO TOPIC PAGE NO.

1. MANAGEMENT 6

2. ABOUT ARVIND MILL 7

3. INTRODUCTION 9

4. FABRIC DEFECTS 10

5. FABRIC INSPECTION TEQNIQUES 13

6. ARVIND MILL GRADING SYSTEM 16

7. PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE OF LOOMS

FOR REDUCTION OF FAULTS 17

8. STUDY OF FABRIC DEFECTS 25

9. THANKING LETTER 58

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MANAGEMENT

(Year of establishment-1997)

founder’s name- Mr. SANJAY LAL BHAI

(M.D./chairman)

Head of departments-

Mr. Pinakin Patel (weaving)

Mr. Kalyan Bhattacharya (Processing)

Mr. Vishwajeet Nanda (Q.A.)

Mr. Suhas Bhise (PPCN & commercial activities)

Others-

Mr. Vijay Kumar Gupta (weaving manager)

Mr. Pankaj Neve (weaving manager)

Mr. Manish (shift officer)

Mr. Deepak Verma (supervisor)

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ABOUT ARVIND LTD.

Lifestyle Fabrics

The Fabric of a Global Society In a world without boundaries, Arvind fabrics are

equally universal in their appeal. Arvind aims to enrich lifestyles globally, inspiring

diverse customers with the beauty of their fabric.

Denim- There are many delightful features of Arvind denim: An annual capacity of 110 million

meters; the position of 3rd largest producer of denim in the world; and an export network

of 70 countries worldwide. Prominent products in this category include ring denim, indigo

voiles, organic denim, bi-stretch denim and fair trade certified denim. This is apart from

regular light, medium and heavy weight denims. They come in various shades of indigo,

sulphur, yarn-dyeds, in 100% cotton and various blends.

With a discerning clientele that includes GAP, VF Corporation, Levi Strauss,

Abercrombie & Fitch, Calvin Klein to name a few, Arvind has to stay fashionably ahead.

Their designers based out of Japan, Europe and USA create trend setting collections for

the season, ensuring that heads keep turning for the Arvind name. Good from the outside

and from within is the hallmark of a good product. Denim from Arvind offers reliability,

quality and value-addition through services like shrink-film wrapping, bar-coded labeling

of rolls, providing washed and unwashed shade blankets with every order, besides faster

documentation. The facilities of Arvind Denim are accredited with ISO 9001, ISO 14001,

OEKOTEX 100, GOTS, Organic exchange standard, FLO for fair trade and Lycra

Assured. The labs are accredited by Dupont, Levi Strauss.

Shirting-

It is one of the most well-known products of Arvind Group, selling at a premium in the

international market. It has an astonishing annual capacity of 34 million meters. Prominent

products within this category include fabrics with non-iron properties, mechanical

finishes, printed fabrics apart from the cotton and cotton blends in Linen, Lycra, Polyester,

Modal, Silk etc. with varieties in yarn dyeds and solids.

Arvind has a unique plant for manufacturing very light weight indigo dyed fabrics in yarn

dyed and solids for top weights. Arvind Shirting has a liquid ammonia based fabric

processing plant and a state-of-the-art print house – a first for India and one of the few in

Asia. The clientele for the product include names like Polo, Ralph Lauren, ESPRIT, GAP,

FCUK, Zara, Pull & Bear, Louis Philippe, Van Heusen, Allen Solly, Color Plus, Parx and

Park Avenue. The plant is equipped for spinning company, lycra and super fine yarn up to

170’s count. This is in addition to an existing state-of-the- art yarn dyeing facility,

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automatic drawing in unit and an automated fabric inspection and packing facility. And if

that wasn’t enough, the division has the largest sampling plant in India for speedy

churning out of desk looms and yardages for customers. Plus, there’s additional support

from an in-house design studio and a team of designers, who in turn get continuous inputs

on latest international trends from designers based in Italy and the UK.

Khaki-

The division provides the finest fabrics in the variants of 100% Cotton, Cotton Rich

Polyester Blend, Cotton Lycra, Cotton Tencel, Cotton Linen, etc to name a few. The

division has an integrated plant with weaving and processing facilities. The most

prominent products in this range include Chinos, Canvas, Ribstop, HBT, Tussore,

Cavalry, Structures and Dobbies. It’s easy to see why the most discerning customers flock

here: The exalted list includes GAP, J Crew, Polo Ralph Lauren, Abercrombie & Fitch,

Banana Republic, Ann Taylor, Liz Clairborne,(US), Marks and Spencer, Pull & Bear,

Benetton, Grotto Gas, Diesel, Debenhams, (UK), Madura Garments, and Color Plus

(India).

To satisfy such quality conscious customers, the khaki division has a testing and Quality

Control Laboratory, and a Product Development Cell, which not only undertakes value-

engineering of the existing products but is also involved in creating new weaves, blends

and dyeing and processing techniques. The plants are certified by OEKO TEX, Lycra,

Teflon. Laboratory accredited by Marks and Spencers, Next, Dupont, Levi’s, INVISTA.

Knits-

Arvind’s knits department has an annual knitting capacity of 10,000 tons. Apart from the

basic knitting capabilities (jersey, pique, rib, and interlock), Arvind has mastered specialty

knitting techniques such as yarn-dyed autostripers, jacquards, and stretch fabric. The knits

vertical has a fabric dyeing capacity of 6500 tons per annum and yarn dyeing capacity of

3500 tons per annum. It has the ability to process both tubular and open-width fabric and

offer specialty finishes like mercerization, singing and various forms of brushing and

peaching. The department also boasts of a state-of- the art print shop equipped with fully

automatic placement printing capabilities.

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INTRODUCTION

One of the main functions of any weaving machine is to produce defect free fabric. The

incidence of defects in the fabric is not only reduces the aesthetic appeal of the woven,

fabric, butt also reduces the net value realization. The incidence of defects also varies

between mill to mill from shuttle to shuttleless looms and depends upon the deficiencies in

the material, machines and man responsible for it’s manufacture.

The operating feature of all shuttles less looms is that the weft is drawn from large fixed

packages, mounted outside the side frame of the looms. Thus, the differences of fabric

defect between shuttles less looms are mainly due to differences in picking mechanism.

But, there are defects which are common for shuttle and shuttle less looms and arising

from two other primary motions, i.e., shedding and beating up and also defects which are

carried forward from the raw materials to different machines of weaving preparatory.

These defects can be reduced through concerted efforts during the various stages of fabric

manufacturing.

In Textile mills the fabric are inspected at the grey state after weaving and again after

bleaching, dyeing / printing and finishing processes. In the grey inspection, the fabric

defects are identified.

The mandible defects are mended and parched. At this stage the fabrics are often diverted

depending upon the frequency and type of defects.

But, there are defects which are common for shuttle and shuttle less looms and arising

from two other primary motions i.e. shedding and beating up and also defects which are

carried forward from the raw materials to different machines of weaving preparatory.

These defects can be reduced through concerted efforts during the various stages of fabric

manufacturing.

Even under the best possible conditions it is not possible to avoid certain defects e.g.

certain floats / smashes. But majority of the defects are avoidable if certain precautions are

taken.

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FABRIC DEFECTS

CRITICAL DAMAGE NON CRITICAL DAMAGE

NON MENDABLE MENDABLE

Bend Pick

Oil Stain

Black Stain

NON MENDABLE MENDABLE

1. Stop Mark Double Pick

2. Abrasion Weft loop

3. Tight Warp Warp loop

4. Reed Mark Double End

5. Wrong Pattern Slough off

6. Temple Crack

The following defects are common for any type of weaving machine : -

FABRIC DEFECTS ATTRIBUTABLE TO SPINNING –

1. Coarse end / pick

2. Fine end / pick

3. Slubs

4. Slubby / uneven yarn

5. Hairy yarn

6. Snarls

7. Neps

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8. Stains / contamination

FABRIC DEFECTS RELATED TO THE DOUBLING –

1. Single yarn

2. Untwist / less twist yarn

3. Neppy / Fluffy yarn

4. Snarl

5. Stains

6. Knots / tail ends

7. Uneven singing / singing related faults

8. Uneven twist setting .

FABRIC DEFECTS RELATED TO WINDING PACKAGE FAULTS –

1. Slough off

2. Gouts

FABRIC DEFECTS RELATED TO WEAVING PREPARATORY –

1. Sizing patches

2. Pulled warp

3. Multiple breaks

4. Sizing stains

5. Wrong pattern / Drawing in

6. Gouts

7. Sticky ends

8. Mixed yarn

9. Loose selvedge

10. Missing ends

11. Hairy yarn

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TYPES OF DEFECTS

Defects are of three types :

1). Minor Defects :

Slubs

Gout

Stain

Color Fly

Mending impressions

Snarls etc.

Sticker

Tear drop

2). Major Defects :

Broken picks

Missing picks

Thick place

Starting mark

Crlerk

Coarse / fine pick

Wrong weft

Uneven weft

Missing end

Size patches etc.

Stains

Temple Mark

3). Cut Table defects :

Big crack

Float

Hole

Bad selvedge

Reed mark

Less / more picks

Missing ends ( more than 1.25 m )

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FABRIC INSPECTION TECHNIQUES All fabric grading procedure is following by Four Point American System.

POINT COUNT PROCUDURE:

Sr. No. Damage Length Point Count

1.0 Weft Wise

1.1 0.1” to 3” 01

1.2 3” to 6” 02

1.3 6” to 9” 03

1.4 9” to above 04

2.0 Warp Wise

2.1 1/25th of the length 04

3.0 Partial Defect

3.1 =<5 mm 02

Note :-

All colour foreign Matter should be removed.

All Partial Defect More than 5 mm should be cut.

No piece is allowed 4 points defect at beginning 03 Mtrs and Ending 03 Mtrs.

Quality /Grading (for minimum 5000 mtrs shipment)

1) POINTS PER PIECE 2) POINTS PER SHIPMENT

15 POINTS PER 100 SQ. MTRS 12 POINTS PER 100 SQ. MTRS

RECOGNITION OF DEFECTS FOR CHECKERS

Specification &

Appearance

WEAVING RELATED

DAMAGES

COVER Ball Formation

Black Stain

Broken End

Broken Pick

Bump Mark

Broken Pattern

Design Change

Design Cut

Double End

Double Pick

Double Weft

Fine End

Snarling

Stain

Loose Pick

Temple Cut

Temple Mark

Thick & Thin

Weft Bar

Weft Distortion

Wrong Denting

Wrong Drawing

Wrong pattern

Wrong Weft

Bumping

Reediness

Neppiness

Hazyness

Unevness

Streakiness

Kitty Level

Fringe – Less than 4 mm

Selvedge – 6 mm to 8 mm

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Hanging Thread

Starting Mark

Thin Places

Thick Place

Knots

Lashing In

Leno Cut

Less Width

Let off Mark

Light Starting Mark

Light Thick Place

Loom Fly

Loops

Loose Leno Binding

Mending Impression

Missing End

Nozzle mark

Oily Stain

Pulled Warp

Reed Cut

Selvedge without Leno

Short Pick

Sizing Patches/ Crystal

Sizing Stain

Slack End

Slough Off

Slackness

Yarn Lot Change

Reed Mark

Take off Mark

Dobby Line

Jumping End

Floating

Wrong End

DYEING RELATED

DAMAGES

Patta

Shade not matching

Shade Variation

Uneven dyeing

Streaks

PARTIAL DEFECT

SPINNING RELATED

DAMAGES

CRACK

HOLE

FLOA

KNOTTING

MULTIPLAL

BREAKAGE

RUST STAIN

SIZING MACHINE

STOP (S.M.S.)

TORN FABRIC

TEAR DROP

STITCHES

Coarse Pick

Cockled Yarn

Colour Contamination

Count Variation

Dirty End

Double Weft

High Twist Yarn

Knots

Moisture Effect

Neps

Oily Weft

Slub

Slubby Weft

Uneven Weft Yarn

Three Ply

Coarse end

The Following System will be adopted for grading and packing of our grey fabric

:-

1. Inspection Method:- The 100% cloth will be inspected as per four point

American Systems on inspection machine at the speed of 16 to 18 mtrs / minute

2. Fabric Gradation:-

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Marketing /

Grade

Pts/100 sq.

Mtr.

Pts/100 Lnr.

Mtr/

Normal

Width

Pts/100 Lnr

Mtr.

Wider Width

Fabric Length

“A” 15 Points 24 Points 45 Points >= 20 Mtrs &

above for

domestic

>=40 Mtrs &

above for

export

“B” 22 Points 35 Points 67 Points >= 20 Mtrs &

above

“C” 31.25 Points 50 Points 95 Points >= 20 Mtrs &

above

“D” (Cut

Pieces)

No Bar NO Bar (> 1

Mtrs to <10

Mtrs)

NO Bar ( >1

Mtrs to > 5)

>= 1 Mtrs to

=< 10 Mtrs

“E” (Cut

Pieces)

No Bar No Bar (>11

Mtrs to <20

Mtrs)

No bar ( >5

Mtrs to > 20

Mtrs)

>= 11 Mtrs to

< 20 Mtrs

“F” GRADE All continuous

Defect (Warp +

Weft)

NO Bar All continuous

Defect (Warp +

Weft)

>20 MTRS

AND ABOVE

“G” GRADE 47 Points 75 POINTS NILL >20 MTRS

AND ABOVE

Note: All remaining qualities less than one mtrs will be designated as under :-

Market Length Packing

Chindi 0 Cm to 25 Cm In Kg

Fents 25 Cm to 99 Cm In Kg

1. FORMULA

Total Points x39.37x100

Width / Total Mtrs = Points per 100 Sq. Mtrs.

2. FORMULA

Step-1 --- Width /39.37 = Width in Mrs.

Example – 120/39.37 = 3.04

Step- 2 ---

Points / 100 Sq. Mtrs

Total Poits / Total Mtrs/WIDTH. = Points per 100 Sq. mtrs.

Example – 45/100/3.04 WIDTH IN MTRS = 15 Points per Sq. Mtrs.

Note: All fabric will be packed as grade wise only.

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3. Folding/ Plaiting:- Fabric cut looking is done on inspection m/c in roll form at

time of inspection.

4. Folding plating m/c for normal & wider width having for future reference as per

customer demand.

5. Packing:- As per customer requirement

IN ARVIND INTERNATIONAL MILL

4 POINT SYSTEMS

0 - 8 CMS : 1 POINTS

9 - 16 CMS : 2 POINTS

17 - 24 CMS : 3 POINTS

ABOVE 24 CMS : 4 POINTS

NOTE:-Per 100mtrs only four 4 points damage is allowed.

Maximum points 32/100 Lmt(Linear meter)

Grading:- 4Point : 4Places in 100mtrs (A)

4Point : 5Times in 100mtrs (B)

4Point : 6Times in 100mtrs (C)

M. & S. STANDARD 6 POINTS SYSTEM

0 - 25 CMS : 1 POINT

26 - 50 CMS : 2 POINTS

51 - 75 CMS : 3 POINTS

76 - 100 CMS : 4 POINTS

101 - 125 CMS : 5 POINTS

ABOVE 125 CMS : 6 POINTS

Maximum Points 26/100 sq. Mtrs(32/100 LMts)

Maximum 1 Point per 100 sq. Mtrs -7.5 Avg.

Maximum 1 Point per 100 sq. Mtrs - 5 Avg. (22/100 LMtrs)

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1. PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE OF LOOMS FOR REDUCTION OF

FAULTS

Today cloth quality standards are rising. Unless the loom is in top condition it is

impossible to get consistent high quality of performance.

CLOTH QUALITY LOSS

In respect of quality, following problems are usually due to poor maintenance of looms :

Broken Picks / Mispicks

Starting Marks

Let-off Marks

Slough-off

Oil Stains or streak in fabric

PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE

Sulzer documents contain following schedules :

Oiling

Monthly Maintenance

Six-monthly Maintenance

OILING & LUBRICATION

It is to be carried out by a person given a small briefing by the technical staff. It is

essential that oil and grease should reach the part which they are intended to lubricate. The

staff should monitor it regularly.

MONTHLY MAINTENANCE

It involves removal, cleaning and % checking of regular parts of the picking and receiving

side. Knowledge of machine and understanding of procedure is a must. Worn out parts can

be changed.

SIX-MONTHLY MAINTENANCE

It implies to carry out a through check as Sulzer recommendations and checklist. It

requires proper training & experience of technician as well as monitoring by staff.

Good maintenance practices are easily adaptable and can systematically be practiced. All

unit owners should recognize the need for the same & implement with all diligence.

2. IMPROVING WEAVABILITY

Improving weavability means making fabric defect free & looms end breakage free. The

Weavability of the warp yarns produced from same raw material can be improved by

changing spinning parameters, spinning technology & to some extent by choice of

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winding parameters. However the yarn must have a certain minimum quality. Besides this,

the weavability can be substantially improved by making a choice of suitable size

materials and size process.

FACTORS AFFECTING WEAVABILITY

GREY YARN QUALITY

FIBER TYPE

The type of fiber affects yarn packing density, nature of yarn surface, yarn cohesion, inter

fiber friction etc. & thereby weaving performance. Short fibers lead to more yarn

breakage.

YARN QUALITY

It depends upon raw material, spinning technology, process parameters, machine

conditions & climate conditions. The first three factors mainly decide yarn structure. They

reflects yarn tensile properties, abrasion resistance, frictional properties, hairiness and

unevenness and yarn faults.

SPINNING TECHNOLOGY

It decides yarn structure & nature of the yarn surface which in turn influence yarn

performance during weaving. Ring spun yarn has highest strength & elongation followed

by rotor & Dref-3 yarns. Dref-3 yarns have the best appearance in spite of high hairiness

followed by ring and rotor yarns. For successful weaving of a warp yarn minimum

strength value is necessary to sustain weaving stresses.

YARN PROCESS PARAMETERS

Yarn structure can be altered to some extent by changing process parameters such as twist,

which decides packing density, migration, fiber extent etc. This in turn is reflected in yarn

properties and yarn behavior. In case of rotor yarn, abrasion resistance increases as twist

factor increase. This reflects in yarn properties, yarn tenacity, breaking extension and

abrasion resistance.

MECHANICAL CONDITION OF SPINNING MACHINE & CLIMATIC

CONDITIONS

They influence end breakage during spinning. This in turn affects yarn faults due to

excessive knotting and thus creates fabric faults.

WARP PREPARATION

EFFECT OF WINDING

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Majority of yarn breaks and fabric defects are caused due to lumps on the yarn such as

knot tails, slubs, neps or other protuberances which affects movement of adjacent yarns

during shed change. If these faults persist during opening of shed, tension in these yarns

becomes abnormally high leading to short picks. So it is necessary to remove these thick

places. But every thick place is replaced by another fault called knot or splice as they are

thicker than parent yarn. So the knot should have least resistance to slippage and minimum

possible length of tails ends.

EFFECTS OF WARPING

The warpers beam should be of uniform density, with no cross slack, or broken ends. Also

warp stops should be less for satisfactory weaving.

EFFECT OF SIZING

Yarn abrasion resistance is affected not only by the yarn properties but also by the type of

sizing agent employed. The abrasion resistance is dependent on the cohesion of the fibers

and the adhesive power of sizing agent. The sizing agent forms a film, which is flexible

joint between the fiber. The extensibility of this film should not be too low, as it has to

follow the extension of the yarn on the loom. Also stickiness & softness of this film is

undesirable. Besides the other variables which affects warp breakage at weaving are :

Yarn Structure

Sizing conditions

Machine conditions

Size recipe

EFFECT OF WEAVING CONDITIONS

EFFECT OF FABRIC PARAMETERS

Various fabric parameters which affect fabric faults and warp breakage also are reed count

and end density. Basic yarn tension plays a vital role in deciding proper weavability.

Increase in basic tension causes increase in abrasion subsequently.

LOOM CODITIONS

Warp stresses and strains can be divided into :

Cyclical yarn pulling force

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Bending and friction forces at deflections

Abrasion and friction

Threads getting caught and tangled.

The third and fourth can be removed by improving sizing and by improving design of

weaving machine. However first and second are unavoidable as they depend on loom

motions like let-off, take-up, back rest position, back rest motion, heald frame motion and

movement of cloth. An appropriate size of shed can reduce warp breakage rate and also

fabric faults.

EFFECT OF CLIMATE CONDITIONS

Increase un humidity generally lowers the warp breakage rate. Changes in the temperature

are least effective than relative humidity changes, which affect warp breakage rate

substantially.

3. YARN QUALITY REQUIREMENTS FOR SHUTTLE LESS LOOMS

Shuttle Less looms are capital intensive. The techno-economics of these machines require

that their productivity should be high and only fault free high value fabrics can be

produced on these machines.

For them to be cost-effective, machine efficiency should be 90%. It increases with

reduction in the time of machine stoppages.

SUGGESTED VALUES OF YARN QUALITY REQUIREMENTS FOR RAPIER AND

PROJECTILE LOOMS

COUNT

YARN QUALITY 40s 60s 80s

1. Yarn Quality 18.00 20.00 20.00

2. CV% of RKM 8.5 9.00 10.00

3. Breaking Elongation 5.25 5.00 4.70

4. Imperfections Per Km 125.00 150.00 300.00

4. FABRIC DEFECTS ATTRIBUTABLES FROM SPINNING TO WEAVING

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The faults in fabric do not occur just due to weaving. They can be traced back to spinning,

post spinning ( Doubling ), winding as well as weaving preparatory also. Any anomaly in

the product of any of these processes result in the fault of the fabric. The various

attributable to the various processes are as follows :

FABRIC DEFECTS DUE TO SPINNING :

Spinning influences majority of yarn properties like abrasion resistance, tensile strength,

hairiness properties, yarn tenacity etc. that is why many fabric faults are traceable to

spinning like :

Yarn count variation in fabric

Slubs

Hairy yarn

Snarls

Neps

Stains / Contamination

Due to count variation, the dye uptake of fabric is changed. Hence patches are formed in

the fabric during dyeing. Slubs, snarls and neps cause uneven thickness of the fabric.

Hairy yarn creates problem in wet processing while stains reduce the value of the fabric.

FABRIC DEFECTS RELATED TO POST SPINNING / DOUBLING

Doubling is a process of twisting two yarns together. Plied and corded both type of yarns

come under this category. It affects yarn properties like twist level in he yarn and knots in

the yarn. Doubling should ensure that there should not be longer lengths of untwisted

yarn. Also there should be smaller lengths of tail ends of knots. The main faults related

with post spinning are as follows :

Untwisted yarn

Lesser twisted yarn

Long tail ends

Uneven twist setting

Short tail ends and hence slipping of knots.

Uneven twisted yarns lead to differential dye take up and also differential tensile

strengths. Longer tail ends of knots entangle in the shed and hence cause end breakage.

Slipping of knots lead to breaking of warp and hence cause frequently loom stoppages.

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FABRIC DEFECTS RELATED TO WINDING

Winding is the first preparatory process of weaving department. It is aimed at producing

long length of fabrics with reduced faults or rather no faults at all, a condition difficult to

achieve. It is very important process as it saves a lot of cost in warping and weaving

department. The main fabric defects attributable to winding are :

Slough off

Gouts

FABRIC DEFECTS RELATED TO WEAVING PREPARATORY

Warping and sizing are the main processes of weaving preparatory. Also drawing in is an

important step before beam gaiting. Warping requires proper attention as the incidence of

cross ends and lappers reduces fabric quality as well as increases the incidence of loom

stoppages due to warp breaks. Even sizing requires attention a man defects are created due

to uneven size take-up as well as wrong size adds-on percentage. In drawing in proper care

is required as wrong denting also creates many fabric defects. The main defects due to

weaving preparatory are :

Sizing patches

Pulled Warp

Sizing stains

Sticky ends

Wrong patterning

Loose selvedge

Missing ends

Hairy yarn

FABRIC DEFECTS RELATED TO WEAVING

In weaving, loom condition as well as loom settings have a great impact on the quality of

fabric. Even under best possible conditions it is not possible to avoid certain defects like

floats, smashes, etc but majority of the defects are unavoidable if certain precautions are

taken. Fabric defects can be classified into three groups – Avoidable and Unavoidable,

Minor and Major and Mendable and Unmendable. The major fabric defects related to

weaving are :

Missing end

Missing pick

Warp streak / reed mark

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Readiness

Bad selvedge

Weft crack

Crammes / Double pick

Thick and thin places

Dropped pick

Weft bars

Stitches or bumping marks

Temple marks

Weft stop motions, weft fork motions and warp protectors are used to detect and trace

weft and / or warp to avoid ant type of cracks in the fabric. Slub catches on the principles

of capacitance and photo electricity are used to detect ant think / thin places. Measuring

motion on unconventional looms is an effective way of controlling the length of pick. Also

specialized nozzles in air-jet and water-jet control motion of the weft very effectively.

5. CONTROL OF FABRIC QUALITY AT LOOM STAGE

The two aspects of fabric quality in the loom shed are :

Meeting the design specification of fabric

Ensuring that the fabrics are free from defects that originate during weaving.

DESIGN SPECIFICATION

In order to make the fabric as per the design specifications, the following factors should be

checked :

Type of fibers / yarns used

Count and twist of warp and weft

End and pick density

Weave and colour pattern

Width of fabric at the reed

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Gray width of fabric

Length of a cut

FIRST PIECE INSPECTION

After gaiting the beam, all the above mentioned parameters excepting the last one should

be checked at the loom stage by supervisors and jobbers. Additionally the first piece from

the newly gaited loom is taken to gray folding departments and is inspected for design

specifications. The first piece report should be immediately sent to the weaving

department. If the piece does not confirm to the require standard, necessary changes

should be carried out and the next piece should again be sent for inspection.

WEAVING DEFECTS

The first point to be noted is that the quality of the fabric at the loom is dependent by the

entire sequence of operations from weaving preparatory to weaving. The approach should,

therefore, be to consider each process in relation to the manner in which it affects which

subsequent process and not in isolation. In this context, it should be remembered that

though the preparatory departments and loom shed both contribute substantially to the

fabric quality and loom productivity. The conversion at the loom shed is greater than that

of preparatory and so maximum emphasis should be given to the quality of preparation at

the preparatory rather than its .

GREY INSPECTION

Grey inspection is the examination of the fabric after weaving. There should be a

continuous liaison between the gray cloth inspection and weave loom personnel. Looms

constantly giving defects like missing ends, cracks, thin places, wrong drawing, double

ends, defective pattern, etc. can be immediately rectified by strict inspection programme.

It ids recommendation that 100% inspection should be followed at gray stage.

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STUDY OF LOOM STOP MARK(LSM)

1.

LOOM PARTICULERS:-

Loom No. 623

Loom Type JAT 710

Loom rpm 800

Fabric Type Shirting

Warp Count 60s

Weft Count 60s

Ends / Inch 172

Picks / Inch 96

Reed Space 64.5 inch

Reed Used 171.8

Denting Order 3 ends/dent

No. of Healds 8(capacity 16)

Shedding Type E-Dobby Shedding

Warp Tension 220 Kg-F

Shim Used 4 mm

Weave Dobby

LOOM STOP MARK SETTING:-

ICS SETTING:- S.NO. CHECK POINT SETTING

1. Warp × Weft 60×60

2. Beam Dia 440mm

3. Drawing width 162.8cm(act. 160cm)

4. Measuring Band mark 16

5. Number of sub nozzles 28

6. T0-Tw 90-240

7. WF1 Sensitivity 6

8. Main Pressure 400kPa

9. Sub Pressure 450kPa

SAMPLE

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MECHANICAL SETTING:-

Back

rest

Height

&

Depth

0 – 6

WSM

Height

-1

Easing

Amount

&

Timing

3 – 300o

Heald

frame

Height

&

Amount

S.No.

Height

Dwell

Cross

angle

B.R*

Cross

angle

A.R.*

S. No.

Height

Dwell

Cross

angle

B.R*

Cross

angle

A.R.* 1. 104 0/30 300 330 5. 100 0/30 290 330 2. 102 0/30 300 330 6. 98 0/30 290 330 3. 100 0/30 300 330 7. 96 0/30 310 320 4. 98 0/30 300 330 8. 94 0/30 310 320

*B.R.=Before repairing; *A.R.=After repairing

LSM SETTING:-

S.NO. DELTA SETTING WEFT STOP WARP STOP

1. Running Starting Angle 300 300

2. Running Stop Angle 300 300

3. High speed Starting(Delta) ON ON

4. Motor Acceleration(on starting) AUTO AUTO

5. No weft Beating Pick 0 0

6. Inching Repeat on Starting 0 0

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S.NO.

SETTING NAME

LET OFF TAKE UP

WARP WEFT WARP WEFT

1. Kick back 0.00mm 0.00mm 0.00mm 0.00mm

2. Shake On Start 0.00mm 0.00mm 0.00mm 0.00mm

3. Times 1 1 1 1

4. Time correction 0 0 0 0

2.

LOOM PARTICULARS:-

Loom No. 663

Loom Type JAT 710 erotech

Loom rpm 880

Fabric Type Shirting

Warp Count 60sC

Weft Count 60sC

Ends / Inch 132

Picks / Inch 88

Reed Space 69 inch

Reed Used 132

Denting Order 2ends/dent

No. of Healds 4(Capacity 8)

Shedding Type Staubli cam shedding

Warp Tension 200 Kg-F

Shim Used 2mm

Weave PLAIN

LOOM STOP MARK SETTING:-

ICS SETTING:- S.NO. CHECK POINT SETTING

1. Warp × Weft 60×60

2. Beam Dia 390mm

3. Drawing width 175.2cm(act.169 cm)

4. Measuring Band mark 24

SAMPLE

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5. Number of sub nozzles 30

6. T0-Tw 90-240

7. WF1 Sensitivity 6

8. Main Pressure 300Kg/cm2

9. Sub Pressure 350 Kg/cm2

10. Tension in Kg-F 250

MECHANICAL SETTING:-

Back rest

Height & Depth

0 – 5

WSM Height -2

Easing Amount

& Timing

6 – 300o

Heald frame

Height &

Amount

S.No. Height Amount Dwell Cross 1. 76 138 0/60 310

o

2. 74 140 0/60 310o

3. 72 137 0/60 290o

4. 70 129 0/60 290o

LSM SETTING:-

S.NO. DELTA SETTING WEFT STOP

B.R.*

A.R.*

WARP STOP

B.R.*

A.R.*

1. Running Starting Angle 300o

300o

300o

200o

2. Running Stop Angle 300o

300o

300o

300o

3. High speed Starting(Delta) ON ON ON ON

4. Motor Acceleration(on starting) AUTO AUTO AUTO AUTO

5. No weft Beating Pick 2 0 2 0

6. Inching Repeat on Starting 0 0 0

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S.NO.

SETTING NAME

LET OFF TAKE UP

WARP WEFT WARP WEFT

1. Kick back 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00

2. Shake On Start 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00

3. Times 1 1 1 1

4. Time correction 0 0 0 0

3.

LOOM PARTICULERS:-

Loom No. 603

Loom Type JAT710

Loom rpm 768

Fabric Type Shirting

Warp Count 60s

Weft Count 60s

Ends / Inch 200

Picks / Inch 100

Reed Space 69 inch

Reed Used 80/5

Denting Order 5 ends/dent

No. of Healds 12 (Capacity 16)

Shedding Type Dobby E- Shedding

Warp Tension 440 Kg-F

Shim Used 2mm

Weave Dobby

SAMPLE

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LOOM STOP MARK SETTING:-

ICS SETTING:-

S.NO. CHECK POINT SETTING

1. Warp × Weft 60×60

2. Beam Dia 520mm

3. Drawing width 175.2cm(act.171cm)

4. Measuring Band mark 24

5. Number of sub nozzles 28

6. T0-Tw 90-240

7. WF1 Sensitivity 6

8. Main Pressure 350 Kg/cm2

9. Sub Pressure 400 Kg/cm2

10. Tension in Kg-F 480

MECHANICAL SETTING:-

Back rest

Height & Depth

12 - 6

WSM Height +1

Easing Amount

& Timing

3 – 300o

Heald frame

Height &

Amount

S.No. Height Amount Dwell Cross 1. 108 mm 48 0/60 300

o

2. 106 mm 56 0/60 300o

3. 104 mm 63 0/60 300o

4. 102 mm 64 0/60 300o

5. 100 mm 75 0/60 300o

6. 98 mm 80 0/60 300o

7. 96 mm 47 0/60 300o

8. 94 mm 52 0/60 300o

9. 92 mm 58 0/60 300o

10. 90 mm 63 0/60 300o

11. 88 mm 67 0/60 300o

12. 86 mm 62 0/60 300o

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LSM SETTING:-

S.NO. DELTA SETTING WEFT STOP

B.R.*

A.R.*

WARP STOP

B.R.*

A.R.*

1. Running Starting Angle 300o

340o

300o

340o

2. Running Stop Angle 300o

300o

300o

300o

3. High speed Starting(Delta) ON ON ON ON

4. Motor Acceleration(on starting) AUTO AUTO AUTO AUTO

5. No weft Beating Pick 2 0 2 0

6. Inching Repeat on Starting 0 0 0

S.NO.

SETTING NAME LET OFF TAKE UP

WARP WEFT WARP WEFT

1. Kick back 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00

2. Shake On Start 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00

3. Times 1 1 1 1

4. Time correction

MARK SETTING:-

S.No. FELL FORWARD WEFT STOP WARP STOP

1. Fell forward amount 0.00mm 0.00mm

2. Shake on Start -3.00mm -3.00mm

3. Times 1 1

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4.

LOOM PARTICULERS:-

Loom No. 621

Loom Type TOYATA JAT 710

Loom rpm 805

Fabric Type Shirting

Warp Count

2/121s

Weft Count 60s

Ends / Inch 162

Picks / Inch 94

Reed Space 64.50

Reed Used 108/3

Denting Order 3 ends/dent

No. of Healds 4

Shedding Type Cam sedding

Warp Tension 240 Kg-F

Shim Used 2 mm

Weave Plain

LOOM STOP MARK SETTING:-

ICS SETTING:- S.NO. CHECK POINT SETTING

1. Warp × Weft 2/121×60

2. Beam Dia 536

3. Drawing width 1631

4. Measuring Bandmark 18

5. Number of sub nozzles 27

6. T0-Tw 90-240

7. WF1 Sensitivity 6

8. Main Pressure 350kPa

9. Sub Pressure 400kPa

10. Tension in Kg-F 240

SAMPLE

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MECHANICAL SETTING:-

Back rest

Height & Depth

0-6

WSM Height -1

Easing Amount

& Timing

6-320

Heald frame

Height &

Amount

S.No. Height Amount Dwell Cross 1. 108 0/30 290 2. 106 0/30 290 3. 104 0/30 310 4. 102 0/30 310

LSM SETTING:- S.NO. DELTA SETTING WEFT STOP

B.R.*

A.R.*

WARP STOP

B.R.*

A.R.*

1. Running Starting Angle 300o

320o

300o

320o

2. Running Stop Angle 300o

300o

300o

300o

3. High speed Starting(Delta) ON ON ON ON

4. Motor Acceleration(on starting) AUTO AUTO AUTO AUTO

5. No weft Beating Pick 2 0 2 0

6. Inching Repeat on Starting 0 0 0

S.NO.

SETTING NAME

LET OFF TAKE UP

WARP WEFT WARP WEFT

1. Kick back 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00

2. Shake On Start 0.00(A.R. -2) 0.00(A.R. -2) 0.00(A.R. -2) 0.00(A.R. -2)

3. Times 1 1 1 1

4. Time correction 0 0 0 0

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5.

LOOM PARTICULERS:-

Loom No. 616

Loom Type JAT 710

Loom rpm 800

Fabric Type shirting

Warp Count 50s

Weft Count 50s

Ends / Inch 128

Picks / Inch 96

Reed Space 69inch

Reed Used 64

Denting Order 4 ends/dent

Drawing Order 1357

2468

No. of Healds 10

Shedding Type Dobby E-Shedding

Warp Tension 240Kg-F

Shim Used 3mm

Weave Dobby(4/4 Twill)

LOOM STOP MARK SETTING:-

ICS SETTING:- S.NO. CHECK POINT SETTING

1. Warp × Weft 50×50

2. Beam Dia 360mm

3. Drawing width 175.2cm(act.173cm)

4. Measuring Band mark 22

5. Number of sub nozzles 29

6. T0-Tw 90-240

7. WF1 Sensitivity 6

8. Main Pressure 350Kg/cm2

9. Sub Pressure 400Kg/cm2

10. Tension in Kg-F 240

SAMPLE

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MECHANICAL SETTING:-

Back rest

Height & Depth 0 – 6

WSM Height -1

Easing Amount

& Timing 3 – 300

o

Heald frame

Height &

Amount

S.No. Height Amount Dwell Cross 1. 104 48 300

o

2. 102 56 300o

3. 100 63 300o

4. 98 69 300o

5. 96 75 300o

6. 94 80 290o

7. 92 47 310o

8. 90 52 310o

LSM SETTING:-

S.NO. DELTA SETTING WEFT STOP WARP STOP

1. Running Starting Angle 300 300

2. Running Stop Angle 300 300

3. High speed Starting(Delta) ON ON

4. Motor Acceleration(on starting) AUTO AUTO

5. No weft Beating Pick 0 (A.R. 2) 0 (A.R. 2)

6. Inching Repeat on Starting 0 0

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S.NO.

SETTING NAME LET OFF TAKE UP

WARP WEFT WARP WEFT

1. Kick back 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00

2. Shake On Start 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00

3. Times 1 1 1 1

4. Time correction 0 0 0 0

MARK SETTING:-

S.No. FELL FORWARD WEFT STOP WARP STOP

1. Fell forward amount 0.00mm 0.00mm

2. Shake on Start -3.00mm -3.00mm

3. Times 1 2

CAUSES

1. High rpm of loom.

2. Shim is not correct.

3. Running starting angle is not correct.

4. Back rest height and depth is not correct.

5. Warp stop motion (WSM) height is not correct.

6. Easing amount and time is not correct.

7. Heald frames height and stroke is not correct.

8. Delta and Mark settings are not correct.

REMIDIES

I

st Note down the running rpm of the loom.E.g. 900rpm

Then stop the loom in Filling stop. Re-start the loom. Again stop the loom after 4-5 pick insertion. Go in per pick menu. Check the rpm of the loom after it showing TW=0.E.g.-810rpm Go in ICS/Machine. Feed the rpm found(810rpm). Send the data for RUNSET / DELTA / MARK.

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Again go in ICS / Machine. Feed the initial rpm(900rpm). Send the data for RUNSET only. Do marking for stop mark for weft and warp stops. Check the for stop mark. If it is OK, then Run the Machine. If it is not then do as given below-

If there is a thick place(patti) at temple only.

1. Set cross angle early.

2. Take back rest down.

3. Reduce easing amount.

4. Delay easing timing.

If there is a thin place (crack) at temple only.

1. Use shake on start(It is must for temple crack.)

If there is a thick place (patti) in whole width.

1. Delay start angle.

2. Set cross angle early.

3.Take back rest up.

If there is a thin place (zirki) in whole width.

1. use no weft beating.

2. Start angle early.

3. Delay cross angle.

4. Take back rest down. Note:-Do not use fell forward and time correction for CLASSICAL SHIRTING

PRODUCTS

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STUDY OF BROKEN END

LOOM PARTICULERS:-

Loom No. 625

Loom Type JAR 710 Eurotech

Loom rpm 806

Fabric Type Shirting

Warp Count 40s

Weft Count 40s

Ends / Inch 108

Picks / Inch 68

Reed Space 68 inch

Denting Order 2 ends/dent

Drawing Order 1,2

3,4

No. of Healds 4

Shedding Type Staubli Cam

Warp Tension 240Kg-F

Shim Used 4mm

Weave PLAIN

This defect is caused by broken end woven in the fabric.

MINOR MAJOR SERIOUS

Not Prominent Prominent Not reckoned

CAUSES

Failure of the weaver in attending to the warp breaks properly.

Loose fly in warp.

Defective reed

REMIDIES

The broken end can be removed by using a plucker and the resulting loose threads should

be cut with a trimmer. As a result, a bare patch occurs and combing in both direction with

a metallic comb can mend this.

SAMPLE

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STUDY OF BROKEN PICK(BP)

LOOM PARTICULERS:-

Loom No. 607

Loom Type TOYATA JAT710

Loom rpm 720

Fabric Type Shirting

Warp Count 2/82s

Weft Count 60sC

Ends / Inch 162

Picks / Inch 74

Reed Space 63 inch

Reed Used 108/3

Denting Order 3 ends/dent

No. of Healds 6(Capacity 16)

Shedding Type Dobby E-Shedding

Warp Tension 350Kg-F

Shim Used 3mm

Weave Dobby

SAMPLE

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2.

LOOM PARTICULERS:-

Loom No. 631

Loom Type JAT 710 Eurotech

Loom rpm 850

Fabric Type Shirting

Warp Count 40 MCL

Weft Count 60sC

Ends / Inch 72

Picks / Inch 86

Reed Space 72 inch

Reed Used 72/2

Denting Order 2 ends/dent

No. of Healds 4

Shedding Type Staubli Cam Shedding

Warp Tension 250Kg-F

Shim Used 2mm

Weave PLAIN

CAUSES

1. WF2 sensitivity is low.

2. WF2 detect angle is not correct.

3. WF2 is not clean.

4. Wrong pressure setting.

5. Bolls formation.

REMIDIES

1. Set the WF2 sensitivity as standard.

2. Set the WF2 pulse at 4

3. Do not disturb the detect angle of WF2.

4. Clean the feeler head regularly.

5. Set the pressure as per requirement.

6. Reduce boll formation.

SAMPLE

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STUDY OF BEND PICK

1.

LOOM PARTICULERS:-

Loom No. 628

Loom Type JAT 710 Eurotech

Loom rpm 800

Fabric Type Shirting

Warp Count 50s

Weft Count 50s

Ends / Inch 120

Picks / Inch 102

Reed Space 71.5inch

Reed Used 80/3

Denting Order 3 ends/dent

No. of Healds 4

Shedding Type Staubli Cam Shedding

Warp Tension 240Kg-F

Shim Used 2mm

Weave Twill

CAUSES

1. Sub nozzles are not aligned.

2. Incorrect pressure setting.

3. Incorrect ABS setting.

4. Catch cord drawing is not correct.

REMIDIES

1. Sub nozzles should be aligned.

2. Pressure should be correct as per requirement.

3. Correct ABS setting.

4. Correct the Catch cord drawing is not.

SAMPLE

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STUDY OF WEFT CUTS OR REED MARKS

1.

LOOM PARTICULERS:-

Loom No. 621

Loom Type TOYATA JAT 710

Loom rpm 805

Fabric Type Shirting

Warp Count

2/121s

Weft Count 60s

Ends / Inch 162

Picks / Inch 94

Reed Space 64.50

Reed Used 108/3

Denting Order 3 ends/dent

No. of Healds 4

Shedding Type Cam sedding

Warp Tension 240 Kg-F

Shim Used 2 mm

Weave Plain

Loom No. 621

CAUSES

1. Weak yarn in weft is used.

2. Early cross angle.

3. Beam TENSION is more (weft cuts).

4. Beam tension is less (Reed cuts).

5. Dwell is less.

6. Shed angle is more (Weft cuts).

7. Shed angle is lees (Reed cuts).

REMIDIES

1. Change the weak yarn.

2. Delay the cross angle.

3. Decrease the TENSION (weft cuts).

4. Increase the TENSION (Reed cuts).

SAMPLE

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5. Set bigger Dwell.

6. Decrease the Shed angle (Weft cuts).

7. Increase the Shed angle (Reed cuts).

NOTE:-Difference between weft cuts and reed cuts is that weft cuts are at random in full

width of fabric and reed cuts are confined in temple area only.

STUDY OF WEFT LOOPS

1.

LOOM PARTICULERS:-

Loom No. 603

Loom Type JAT710

Loom rpm 768

Fabric Type Shirting

Warp Count 60s

Weft Count 60s

Ends / Inch 200

Picks / Inch 100

Reed Space 69 inch

Reed Used 80/5

Denting Order 5 ends/dent

No. of Healds 12 (Capacity 16)

Shedding Type Dobby E- Shedding

Warp Tension 440 Kg-F

Shim Used 2mm

Weave Dobby

LOOM STOP MARK SETTING:-

ICS SETTING:- S.NO. CHECK POINT SETTING

1. Warp × Weft 60×60

2. Beam Dia 520mm

3. Drawing width 175.2cm(act.171cm)

4. Measuring Band mark 24

5. Number of sub nozzles 28

SAMPLE

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6. T0-Tw 90-240

7. WF1 Sensitivity 6

8. Main Pressure 350 Kg/cm2

9. Sub Pressure 400 Kg/cm2

10. Tension in Kg-F 480

CAUSES

1. Sub nozzles are not aligned.

2. Incorrect pressure settings.

3. Incorrect To – Tw setting.

4. Cross angle either too early or too delayed.

5. To little staggering.

6. Frame height is not ok.

REMIDIES

If weft loops are at left hand side (LHS)

1. Set correct pressure settings.

2. Reduce the rpm of loom.

3. Set Cross angle delayed.

If weft loops are at Centre

1. Set correct pressure settings.

2. Set Cross angle delayed.

If weft loops are at right hand side(RHS)

1. Align the sub nozzles.

2. Set the Tw early.

3. Set the correct pressure.

4. Increase the beam tension.

5. Correct the catch –cord drawing.

6. Set Cross angle delayed.

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STUDY OF TEMPLE MARK

1.

LOOM PARTICULERS:-

Loom No. 669

Loom Type JAT 710 eurotech

Loom rpm 900

Fabric Type Shirting

Warp Count 2/101s

Weft Count 50s

Ends / Inch 108

Picks / Inch 92

Reed Space 66 inch

Reed Used 108/2

Denting Order 2 ends/dent

No. of Healds 4

Shedding Type Staubli cam shedding

Warp Tension 250 Kg-F

Shim Used 2 mm

Weave PLAIN

ICS SETTING:- S.NO. CHECK POINT SETTING

1. Warp × Weft 2/101 × 50

2. Beam Dia 480mm

3. Drawing width 167.6cm(act.161cm)

4. Measuring Bandmark 18

5. Number of sub nozzles 28

6. T0-Tw 90-240

7. WF1 Sensitivity 6

8. Main Pressure 400

9. Sub Pressure 450

SAMPLE

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2.

LOOM PARTICULERS:-

Loom No. 647

Loom Type JAT 710 eurotech

Loom rpm 805

Fabric Type Shirting

Warp Count 60sC

Weft Count 60sC

Ends / Inch 120

Picks / Inch 98

Reed Space 69 inch

Reed Used 120/2

Denting Order 2ends/dent

Drawing Order 1,2

3,4

No. of Healds 4(capacity 8)

Shedding Type Staubli cam shedding

Warp Tension 220 Kg-F

Shim Used 3mm

Weave PLAIN

ICS SETTING:- S.NO. CHECK POINT SETTING

1. Warp × Weft 60×60

2. Beam Dia 556mm

3. Drawing width 175.2cm(act.166cm)

4. Measuring Band mark 24

5. Number of sub nozzles 28

6. T0-Tw 90-240

7. WF1 Sensitivity 6

8. Main Pressure 350kPa

9. Sub Pressure 400kPa

SAMPLE

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CAUSES

1. Temple Ring angle is not correct.

2. Ring type is not correct.

3. Drawing width is more.

REMIDIES

1. Correct the ring style.

2. Correct the inclination of ring.

3. Correct the position of temple.

STUDY OF LESS & MORE PICK

LOOM PARTICULERS:-

Loom No. 663

Loom Type JAT 710 erotech

Loom rpm 880

Fabric Type Shirting

Warp Count 60sC

Weft Count 60sC

Ends / Inch 132

Picks / Inch 88

Reed Space 69 inch

Reed Used 132

Denting Order 2ends/dent

No. of Healds 4(Capacity 8)

Shedding Type Staubli cam shedding

Warp Tension 200 Kg-F

Shim Used 2mm

Weave PLAIN

SAMPLE

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LOOM STOP MARK SETTING:-

ICS SETTING:- S.NO. CHECK POINT SETTING

1. Warp × Weft 60×60

2. Beam Dia 390mm

3. Drawing width 175.2cm(act.169 cm)

4. Measuring Band mark 24

5. Number of sub nozzles 30

6. T0-Tw 90-240

7. WF1 Sensitivity 6

8. Main Pressure 300Kg/cm2

9. Sub Pressure 350 Kg/cm2

10. Tension in Kg-F 250

CAUSES

1. FDP selection is not correct.

2. Due to the more stoppage of loom.

3. Setting of main nozzle is not correct.

4. Due to carelessness of weaver.

REMIDIES

1. Change the setting of FDP selection.

2. Reduce the RPM of loom.

3. Correct the Setting of main nozzle.

4. Train the weavers.

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STUDY OF ABRASION

LOOM PARTICULERS:-

Loom No. 663

Loom Type JAT 710 erotech

Loom rpm 880

Fabric Type Shirting

Warp Count 60sC

Weft Count 60sC

Ends / Inch 132

Picks / Inch 88

Reed Space 69 inch

Reed Used 132

Denting Order 2ends/dent

No. of Healds 4(Capacity 8)

Shedding Type Staubli cam shedding

Warp Tension 200 Kg-F

Shim Used 2mm

Weave PLAIN

LOOM STOP MARK SETTING:-

ICS SETTING:- S.NO. CHECK POINT SETTING

1. Warp × Weft 60×60

2. Beam Dia 390mm

3. Drawing width 175.2cm(act.169 cm)

4. Measuring Band mark 24

5. Number of sub nozzles 30

6. T0-Tw 90-240

7. WF1 Sensitivity 6

8. Main Pressure 300Kg/cm2

9. Sub Pressure 350 Kg/cm2

10. Tension in Kg-F 250

SAMPLE

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MECHANICAL SETTING:-

Back rest

Height & Depth

0 – 5

WSM Height -2

Easing Amount

& Timing

6 – 300o

Heald frame

Height &

Amount

S.No. Height Amount Dwell Cross 1. 76 138 0/60 310

o

2. 74 140 0/60 310o

3. 72 137 0/60 290o

4. 70 129 0/60 290o

CAUSES

1. Reed is tight and too hard.

2. Reed is defective.

3. Normal yarn is used in place of compact yarn.

REMIDIES

1. Re- tight the reed with torque wrench.

2. Change the defective reed.

3. Set early cross angle.

4. Increase the staggering.

5. Increase the shed angle.

NOTE:-

1. Abrasion due to the defective reed is sharp line.

2. Abrasion due to the hard tight reed is looks like wrong denting.

3. Abrasion due to the normal yarn is spresding and looks like pressure drop.

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STUDY OF OIL STAIN

LOOM PARTICULERS:-

Loom No. 613

Loom Type JAT 710 Eurotech

Loom rpm 800

Fabric Type Shirting

Warp Count 50s

Weft Count 50s

Ends / Inch 124

Picks / Inch 96

Reed Space 72

Reed Used 76/2

Denting Order 2 ends/dent

No. of Healds 10

Shedding Type Staubli Cam Shedding

Warp Tension 350 Kg-F

Shim Used 3mm

Weave PLAIN

CAUSES

1. Machine cleaning is not proper.

2. Oiling is not proper.

REMIDIES

1. Machine cleaning should be done weekly and monthly.

2. Oiling must be proper proper.

SAMPLE

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STUDY OF LOOSE FLUFF KNOT

1.

LOOM PARTICULERS:-

Loom No. 631

Loom Type JAT 710 Eurotech

Loom rpm 850

Fabric Type Shirting

Warp Count 40 MCL

Weft Count 60sC

Ends / Inch 72

Picks / Inch 86

Reed Space 72 inch

Reed Used 72/2

Denting Order 2 ends/dent

No. of Healds 4

Shedding Type Staubli Cam Shedding

Warp Tension 250Kg-F

Shim Used 2mm

Weave PLAIN

Loom No. 631

ICS SETTING:-

S.NO. CHECK POINT SETTING

1. Warp × Weft 40MCL×60

2. Beam Dia 536mm

3. Drawing width 163.1cm

4. Measuring Band mark 18

5. Number of sub nozzles 27

6. T0-Tw 90-240

7. WF1 Sensitivity 6

8. Main Pressure 350kPa

9. Sub Pressure 400kPa

10. Tension in Kg-F 240

SAMPLE

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2.

Loom No. 621

Loom Type TOYATA JAT 710

Loom rpm 805

Fabric Type Shirting

Warp Count

2/121s

Weft Count 60s

Ends / Inch 162

Picks / Inch 94

Reed Space 64.50

Reed Used 108/3

Denting Order 3 ends/dent

No. of Healds 4

Shedding Type Cam sedding

Warp Tension 240 Kg-F

Shim Used 2 mm

Weave Plain

SAMPLE

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ICS SETTING:-

S.NO. CHECK POINT SETTING

1. Warp × Weft 2/121×60

2. Beam Dia 536

3. Drawing width 1631

4. Measuring Bandmark 18

5. Number of sub nozzles 27

6. T0-Tw 90-240

7. WF1 Sensitivity 6

8. Main Pressure 350kPa

9. Sub Pressure 400kPa

10. Tension in Kg-F 240

CAUSES 1. It is weavers mistake.

2. Knotting is not proper.

REMIDIES Weaver should take care at the time of knotting.

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STUDY OF BOLLS FORMATION

LOOM PARTICULERS:-

Loom No. 623

Loom Type JAT 710

Loom rpm 800

Fabric Type Shirting

Warp Count 60s

Weft Count 60s

Ends / Inch 172

Picks / Inch 96

Reed Space 64.5 inch

Reed Used 171.8

Denting Order 3+4

No. of Healds 8(capacity 16)

Shedding Type E-Dobby Shedding

Warp Tension 220 Kg-F

Shim Used 4 mm

Weave Dobby

LOOM STOP MARK SETTING:-

ICS SETTING:- S.NO. CHECK POINT SETTING

1. Warp × Weft 60×60

2. Beam Dia 440mm

3. Drawing width 162.8cm(act. 160cm)

4. Measuring Band mark 16

5. Number of sub nozzles 28

6. T0-Tw 90-240

7. WF1 Sensitivity 6

8. Main Pressure 400kPa

9. Sub Pressure 450kPa

SAMPLE

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MECHANICAL SETTING:-

Back rest

Height &

Depth

0 – 6

WSM

Height

-1

Easing

Amount &

Timing

3 – 300o

Heald

frame

Height &

Amount

S.No.

Height

Dwell

Cross

angle

B.R*

Cross

angle

A.R.*

S. No.

Height

Dwell

Cross

angle

B.R*

Cross

angle

A.R.* 1. 104 0/30 300 330 5. 100 0/30 290 330 2. 102 0/30 300 330 6. 98 0/30 290 330 3. 100 0/30 300 330 7. 96 0/30 310 320 4. 98 0/30 300 330 8. 94 0/30 310 320

*B.R.=Before repairing; *A.R.=After repairing

CAUSES

1. Soft Beam

2. Normal Yarn

3. Small Shed Angle

4. Incorrect Frame Height

5. Incorrect WSM Setting

6. Delayed Cross Angle

REMIDIES

1. Highlight Soft Beam problem to your shift manager.

2. Increase the Shed Angle

3. Set bigger dwell.

4. Increase the tension.

5. Do correct setting of Frame Height

6. Do correct Setting of WSM

7. Set early Cross Angle

8. Reduce the RPM of loom.

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STUDY OF TIGHT WARP

Warp end or ends shifted to its right or left.

LOOM PARTICULERS:-

Loom No. 614

Loom Type JAT 710

Loom rpm 805

Fabric Type Shirting

Warp Count 102/2s

Weft Count 50s

Ends / Inch 108

Picks / Inch 92

Reed Space 66.0 inch

Reed Used 171.8

Denting Order 2 ends/dent

No. of Healds 8(capacity 16)

Shedding Type Dobby E-shedding

Warp Tension 240 Kg-F

Shim Used 4 mm

Weave Dobby

WSM Height -1

CAUSES 1. Cross Ends

2. Sticky Ends

3. Bolls Formation

4. Missing Ends from Beam

REMIDIES

1. Straighten the Cross Ends.

2. Set the WSM so as it should not touch the warp sheet.

3. Set the WSM so as it become parallel to warp sheet.

4. Train the Weaver to take regular patrolling of missing ends beam.

5. Reduce the RPM of Loom.

SAMPLE

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58

Ph(0) : 0512-2530199

: 05122-2531814

E-Mail : [email protected]

Website : www.uptti.ac.in

UTTAR PRADESH TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY INSTITUTE

(Formerly Known as GCTI)

11/208, Souterganj, Parbati Bangla Road, Kanpur

________________________________________________________________________

____

To,

Mr. Subhanish Malhotra

Senior H.R.

Arvind mills Ltd.

Santej Ahmedabad.

Dear Sir,

This serves to acknowledge with thanks, the affection received by us from your

end. It gives us great pleasure to share with you that we have achieved our objective to get

the student acquainted with latest development in various technical and industrial fields .It

was possible due to the efforts of our team as well as the moral support from the people

from industry like you.

As the training has completed successfully we wish to request you to keep your

blessing on our efforts in future also.

Thanking You, Yours Truly,

Ajay Kumar

Deepak Rathour

Date- 26-07-2010 Deependra Kumar