PROGRAMME & ABSTRACTScec2015.ttf.unizg.hr/downloads/CEC2015-Book_of_Abstracts.pdf · PROGRAMME & ABSTRACTS Organized by University of Zagreb Faculty of Textile Technology Zagreb,

of the

8th Central European Conference on Fiber-Grade Polymers, Chemical Fibers and Special Textiles

Zagreb, Croatia, September 16th – 18th, 2015

Organized by

University of Zagreb

Faculty of Textile Technology Zagreb, Croatia

PPRROOGGRRAAMMMMEE && AABBSSTTRRAACCTTSS


Zagreb, September 16th – 18th 2015

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8th Central European Conference on

Fiber-Grade Polymers, Chemical Fibers and Special Textiles

PROGRAMME & ABSTRACTS

Organized by

University of Zagreb Faculty of Textile Technology

Zagreb, Croatia

Co-organized by:

Croatian Association of Textile Engineers

Almae Matris Croaticae Alumni – Technologiae Textilis Facultatis



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International Scientific Committee President: Ana Marija Grancarić, University of Zagreb, HR Members: Dominique Adolphe, ENSISA, FR; Sandra Bischof, University of Zagreb, HR; Mirela Blaga, Technical University of Iasi, RO; Jan Broda, University of Bielsko Biala, PL; Chokri Cherif, Technical University of Dresden, DE; Danuta Ciechanska, Institute of Biopolymers and Chemical Fibres, Łódź, PL; Krste Dimitrovski, University of Ljubljana, SI; Edin Fatkic, University of Bihać, BIH; Igor Jordanov, Ss. Cyril and Methodius University, MK; Paul Kiekens, Ghent University, BE; Blerina Kolgjini, Polytechnic University of Tirana, AL; Vladan Končar, ENSAIT, Roubaix, FR; Izabella Krucinska, Technical University of Łódź, PL; Carmen Loghin, Technical University of Iasi, RO; Thomas Luxbacher, Anton Paar, AT; Alenka Majcen le Marechal, University of Maribor, SI; Anton Marcincin, Slovak University of Technology in Bratislava (STU), SK; György Marosi, Budapest University of Technology and Economics, HUN; Tanja Pušić, University of Zagreb, HR; Maja Radetić, University of Belgrade, RS; Tatjana Rijavec, University of Ljubljana, SI; Giuseppe Rosace, University of Bergamo, IT; Rene Rossi, EMPA, ETH Zurich, CH; Gunnar Seide, ITA, RWTH Aachen University, DE; Majda Sfiligoj Smole, University of Maribor, SI; Sigitas Stanys, Kaunas University of Technology, LT; Zoran Stjepanovič, University of Maribor, SI; Jozef Šestak, VUTCH-CHEMITEX, SK; Torsten Textor, Deutsches Textilforschungszentrum Nord-West gGmbH, Krefeld, DE; Anna Ujhelyiová, STU, Bratislava, SK; Victoriia Vlasenko, Kiev National University of Technologies and Design, UA; Jakub Wiener, Technical University of Liberec, CZ; Edita Vujasinović, University of Zagreb, HR Organizing Committee President: Tanja Pušić, University of Zagreb, HR Members: Lea Botteri, Ružica Brunšek, Tihana Dekanić, Željko Penava, Anita Tarbuk, Agata Vinčić, Edita Vujasinović

International Review Committee Sandra Bischof (HR), Mirela Blaga (RO), Jan Broda (PL), Ružica Brunšek (HR), Antonela Curteza (RO), Goran Čubrić (HR), Tihana Dekanić (HR), Krste Dimitrovski (SI), Suzana Đorđević (RS), Vedran Đurašević (UK), Sanja Ercegović Ražić (HR), Edin Fatkić (BIH), Sandra Flinčec Grgac (HR), Anica Hursa Šajatović (HR), Martinia Ira Glogar (HR), Ana Marija Grancarić (HR), Lubos Hes (CZ), Simona Jevšnik (SI), Igor Jordanov (MK), Blerina Kolgjini (AL), Vladan Končar (FR), Jasminka Končić (HR), Karlo Lelas (HR), Thomas Luxbacher (AT), Alenka Majcen le Marechal (SI), Anton Marcincin (SK), Branko Neral (SI), Željko Penava (HR), Tanja Pušić (HR), Livio Racane (HR), Maja Radetić (RS), Tatjana Rijavec (SI), Giuseppe Rosace (IT), Rene Rossi (CH), Ivana Salopek Čubrić (HR), Nina Katarina Simončič (HR), Majda Sfiligoj Smole (SI), Maja Somogyi Škoc (HR), Zoran Stjepanovič (SI), Maja Stracenski Kalauz (HR), Ana Sutlović (HR), Olivera Šauperl (SI), Jozef Šestak (SK), Diana Šimić Penava (HR), Željko Šomođi (HR), Anita Tarbuk (HR), Torsten Textor (DE), Antoneta Tomljenović (HR), Victoriia Vlasenko (UA), Branka Vojnović (HR), Bojana Vončina (SI), Edita Vujasinović (HR)



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Welcome Dear 8th CEC Participants, On behalf of the Organizing Committee we wish you very welcome to 8th Central European Conference on Fibre Grade Polymers, Chemical Fibres and Special Textiles (CEC 2015) which will be held from 16th to 18th September 2015 in Zagreb, at the University of Zagreb, Faculty of Textile Technology, Prilaz baruna Filipovića 28a (street). Our thanks are addressed to authors and reviewers for their great contribution to this Conference which offers original research papers for both oral and poster presentations, and being meeting place for academic and other researchers to discuss the latest European and world trends, technological advancements and innovations in the field of textile fibers, materials, technologies and design with the emphasis on fiber-grade polymers, chemical fibers and special textiles. Additionally, the conference discusses their impact on business opportunities taking into consideration the economic and ecological requirements. The 37 original research papers from 14 countries are collected in the Book of Proceedings of the 8th Central European Conference on Fiber-Grade Polymers, Chemical Fibers and Special Textiles (CEC 2015), and will be presented in one of theses sections:

1. Advanced Fibers 2. Fiber and Textile Composites 3. Technical Textiles 4. Smart Textiles 5. Textile Modification 6. Textile Dyeing and Finishing 7. Testing and Quality Control 8. Textile Recycling 9. Ecology in Textiles 10. Textile and Fashion Design

Our gratitude to the persons, sponsors and co-organizing institutions, the Croatian Association of Textile Engineers (HIST) and Almae Matris Croaticae Alumni – Technologiae Textilis Facultatis (AMCA TTF) that helped organization and contributed to the success of the 8th Central European Conference on Fiber Grade Polymers, Chemical Fibers and Special Textiles (CEC 2015). Experience Zagreb we often say «White Zagreb», as beautiful and special city. Wishing you a pleasant stay in Zagreb!

Prof. emerita Ana Marija Grancarić, PhD Prof. Tanja Pušić, PhD President of the Scientific Committee President of the Organizing Committee



CEC Meeting at Prilaz baruna Filipovića 28a, Zagreb – ČRNOMEREC:

· 16th Sept 2015, 17:00 – 20:00 – Welcome party · 17th Sept 2015, 8:00 – 17:00 – Conference lectures and posters

CEC Dinner – Restaurant “Kaptolska klet”, Kaptol 5, Zagreb

· 17th Sept 2015, 20:00 – 24:00 CEC Tour – meeting at the Ban Jelačić square (main square)

· 18th Sept 2015, 10:00 – 12:00 - Old City Tour with professional guide



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Final programme

Wednesday 16th September 2015

17:00 – 18:00 Registration University of Zagreb, Faculty of Textile Technology (TTF), Prilaz baruna Filipovića

28a, Zagreb (Building A, 4th floor)

18:00 – 20:00 Welcome party (A-302)

Thursday 17th September 2015

08:00 – 09:00 Registration University of Zagreb, Faculty of Textile Technology (TTF), Prilaz baruna Filipovića

28a, Zagreb (Building A, 4th floor)

09:00 – 09:15 Opening ceremony (B-316) 09:15 – 10:00 Plenary lecture (B-316) Chairperson: A. M. Grancarić 09:15 – 10:00 T. Textor (Deutsches Textilforschungszentrum Nord-West GmbH, Krefeld, DE):

Sol-gel-based finishing of textiles

10:00 – 10:40 Lectures (B-316) Chairperson: V. Končar 10:00 – 10:20 M. Kurečič, S. Hribernik, N. Virant, A. Ojstršek, M. Sfiligoj Smole, K. Stana

Kleinschek (University of Maribor, Faculty of Mechanical Engineering, SI): Polysaccharide based nanofibers with pH-sensitive function

10:20 – 10:40 B. Kolgjini, G. Schoukens, I. Kola, E. Shehi, P. Kiekens (Polytechnic University of Tirana, AL): Third phase structure of heat treatment monofilaments and bending behavior

10:40 – 11:20 Coffee break (A-302)

11:20 – 12:40 Lectures (B-316) Chairperson: J. Broda

11:20 – 11:40 M. I. Glogar; I. Žiljak Stanimirović, Đ. Parac-Osterman (University of Zagreb, HR): Some aspects of smart elements in contemporary military uniforms

11:40 – 12:00 M. Puchalski, E. Skrzetuska, Z. Draczyński, I. Krucińska, L. Lipińska, J. Jagiełło, M. Aksienionek, W. Stupiński, P. Dąbrowski, Z. Sieradzki, I. Własny, M. Rogala, Z. Klusek (Lodz University of Technology, PL): Graphene printing for textronic devices



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12:00 – 12:20 A. M. Grancarić; I. Jerković; C. Dufour; F. Boussu; X. Legrand, V. Končar (ENSAIT, FR): Glass/polypropylene sensor yarns integration during weaving of 2D structure

12:20 – 12:40

J. Diswat, L. Hes, K. Bal (Technical University of Liberec, Faculty of Textile Engineering, CZ): Influence of pressure on thermal comfort properties of cut pile hand tufted Nylon and PAN carpets

12:40 – 14:00 Lunch (B-301)

14:00 – 15:20 Lectures (B-316)

Chairperson: A. Majcen le Marechal

14:00 – 14:20 K. Jaksik, G. Seide, T. Gries (Institute for Textile Technology of the RWTH University, DE): Melt-spun polyamide-filaments with TiO2-nanoparticles: influence on thermal conductivity and tensile strength

14:20 – 14:40 M. Petková, M. Hýlová, A. Ujhelyiová, J. Ryba (Slovak University of Technology in Bratislava, SK): Physical modification of polypropylene fibres for silicate composites

14:40 – 15:00 G. Rosace, J. Alongi, C. Colleoni, E. Guido, G. Malucelli (University of Bergamo, IT): Halogen‐free phosphorus-based hybrid silica coatings for conferring flame retardancy to cellulosic fabrics

15:00 – 15:20

J. Broda, M. Rom, J. Grzybowska-Pietras, S. Przybylo, R. Laszczak (Institute of Textile Engineering and Polymer Materials, University of Bielsko-Biala, PL): Application of textile wastes for the production of innovative geotextiles designed for erosion control

15:20 – 16:00 Coffee break (A-302) 15:30 – 16:30 POSTER Session* (B- 4th floor)

*Posters are posted from 8:00 till 17:00. During the poster session authors should be by the poster for open discussion.

Advanced Fibers

1-A R. Brunšek, A. Tarbuk, J. Butorac: Bio-Innovative Flax Retting

1-B M. Hricova, V. Hrabovska, A. Ujhelyiova: Preparation of the Polypropylene Fibres with Content of Photochromic Pigments

Fiber and Textile Composites

2-A J. Ryba, A. Ujhelyiová, T. Mackuľak: Tensile properties of polypropylene/halloysite composite fibres

2-B E. Vujasinović, M. Pavunc Samaržija: Aramid sails

2-C S. Stanković, D. Popović, A. Kocić, G. Poparić: UV protection properties of hemp/tactel hybrid yarn knitted fabrics

2-D A. Tomljenović, T. Rijavec, D. Kocjan Ačko; M. Međugorac, R. Vučica: Evaluation of fibres from seed and fibre flax varieties (Linum usitatissimum L.) as a potential reinforcement of polymer composites



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Technical Textiles

3-A Ž. Penava, D. Šimić Penava, Ž. Knezić: Influence of testing methods on the shear properties of e-glass woven fabrics

Textile Modification

5-A J. Mitić, G. Amin; M. Kodrić, M. Šmelcerović, D. Đorđević: Polyester fibres structure modification using some organic solutions

5-B J. Mitić, M. Kodrić, G. Amin; D. Đorđević, M. Šmelcerović: Biomodification of polyester fabric enhanced by ultrasound

5-C A. Tarbuk, A. M. Grancarić, I. Čorak: Cutinase hydrolisis of poly(ethylene-terephtalate) fabric

5-D K. Višić, K. Grgić, A. Tarbuk, T. Pušić: Ionic surfactant adsorption on cationized lyocell fibers

Textile Dyeing and Finishing

6-A L. Botteri, A. M. Grancarić, I. Filipčić, A. Tarbuk: The influence of aluminosilicate on thermal properties of cotton fabric

6-B S. Flinčec Grgac, A. Katović, I. Kljajić: Influence of alkaline ultrasound pre-treatment on the crosslinking environmentally friendly flame retardant agent with cellulosic material

6-C I. Matijević, S. Bischof, A. Sutlović, T. Pušić: Determination of α-tocopherol in cosmetotextiles – UV/Vis spectrophotometric method

6-D T. Rijavec, S. Jevšnik, I. Soljačić, K. Višić, A. Tomljenović, T. Pušić: Modification of fine cotton fabric with floated yarns in washing and wet cleaning

6-E J. Šesták, Ľ. Balogová, P. Michlík, Š. Krivoš, V. Zimány: Properties of textiles from PP fibres modified with multifunctional additives

6-F E. Toshikj, I. Jordanov, B. Mangovska: Low-, middle- and high-level of oxidized cellulose obtained by different oxidation systems

6-G A. Vojtovic, M. Cerny, L. Burgert, J. Palarcik, M. Vlcek: The application of microencapsulated acid dyes and electrolytes to dyeing polyamide

Testing and Quality Control

7-A

V. Vlasenko, A. Arabuli: Design of layered textile composites with high stability structure

7-B V. Vlasenko, L. Martinkova, S. Arabuli: Application of moisture management tester for design of multilayer textile composites

Textile Recycling

8-A A. Majcen le Marechal, A. P. Aneja, A. Lobnik, B. Vončina, J. Volmajer Valh, S. Vajnhandl: RESYNTEX: A new circular economy concept: from textile waste towards chemical and textile industries feedstock (presentation of EU project)

Ecology in Textiles

9-A T. Dekanić, T. Pušić, I. Soljačić: Herbal extracts – washing agents for coloured fabrics?



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Textile and Fashion Design

10-A D. Begović, N. Bošnjak, J. Domjanić: Design and pattern making of functional unisex rainwear

10-B V. Hajsan Dolinar, M. I. Glogar, Đ. Parac-Osterman: The effect of colour frequency in every day clothing on learning and behaviour of primary school pupils

10-C S. Kutnjak-Mravlinčić, S. Bischof, A. Sutlović: Application of additive technology in footwear design

10-D S. Renko, A. Grilec Kaurić, M. Lešina: The effect of fashion design on impulse buying

16:30-17:00 Closing remarks

20:00-24:00 8th CEC Dinner

Restaurant „Kaptolska klet“, Kaptol 5, Zagreb

Friday 18th September 2015

10:00-12:00 Old City Tour

Meeting at Ban Jelačić Square (in Croatian: Trg bana Josipa Jelačića) at 10:00



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PLENARY LECTURE

SOL-GEL-BASED FINISHING OF TEXTILES

Torsten TEXTOR

Deutsches Textilforschungszentrum Nord-West gGmbH, Nanotechnology and Colloid Chemistry Adlerstraße 1, 47798 Krefeld, Germany

[email protected]

Abstract: Increasing demands for specialised textiles, above all technical textiles as high performance products can be observed world-wide. Therefore intensive research work is done for finding new methods that lead to well-aimed modification or functionalisation techniques for (synthetic) fibre surfaces yielding in improved or even new properties. An innovative method for textile finishing is the coating of fibre material with inorganic- organic hybrid polymers following the sol-gel process to create certain surface properties. Coatings based on nanosols and inorganic-organic hybrid polymers, derived by the sol-gel process have an immense potential for creative modifications of surface properties with a comparatively low technical effort and at moderate temperatures. The coatings often combine properties of organic polymers with those of ceramic materials. Therefore those hybrid polymers are of an enormous interest for textile coatings especially for technical textiles. These basic materials offer the opportunity to produce very hard but flexible coatings, especially by filling or modifying the networks with nano-particles. Approaches to modify such coatings by various inorganic or organic substances achieve a huge number of additional functionalities, asked in textile industries. Coatings of a thickness of less then one micron can act as effective barriers against chemical attacks, super-repellent surfaces can be created, or the wear-resistance of textile materials can be improved. Certain coatings protect sensitive polymers against decomposition due to ultraviolet radiation using nanoparticles as employed in sun creams. Ballistic body wear based on fabrics protect against guns but it does not properly protect against knives, thin coatings based on inorganic-organic hybrid polymer filled with alumina nanoparticles achieved good stab-resistance for such products. Further approaches deal, e.g., with photo-catalytic effects, flame-retardancy, antibacterial action or with low-ε coatings reflecting heat. Keywords: nanotechnology, sol-gel, hybrid polymers, multifunctional finishing



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ADVANCED FIBERS

POLYSACCHARIDE BASED NANOFIBERS WITH pH-SENSITIVE FUNCTION

Manja KUREČIČ1,2, Silvo HRIBERNIK1, Natalija VIRANT1, Alenka OJSTRŠEK1, Majda SFILIGOJ SMOLE1, Karin STANA KLEINSCHEK1

1Universtity of Maribor, Faculty of Mechanical Engineering, Smetanova 17, 2000 Maribor, Slovenia

2CE Polimat, Tehnološki park 24, 1000 Ljubljana, Slovenia [email protected]

Abstract: The aim of the present study was to prepare a polysaccharide based nanofibrous sensor for detection of pH change in the wound environment. In order to prepare cellulose acetate (CA) nanofibers, acetic acid was used as a solvent, and fabrication of fibers was performed on the needle-less electrospinning apparatus. Long uniform CA nanofibers, with diameters ranging from 250 to 300 nm, were electrospun from 15wt% CA and 85% acetic acid, with addition of halochromic dye (Bromocrezol Green). The addition of Bromocrezol Green in the spinning formulation did not affect the fiber formation. Prepared nanofibrous sensors were characterized using CIE color space analysis in order to evaluate the color due to pH change. Nanofibrous sensors exhibit yellow color when exposed to pH4 and lower, simulating the wound environment beneficial to the wound healing, and blue color when exposed to pH9 and higher, simulating the environment that hampers wound healing (chronic, infected wounds). Keywords: electrospinning, polysaccharide nanofibers, pH-sensitive dyes, sensors

THIRD PHASE STRUCTURE OF HEAT TREATMENT MONOFILAMENTS AND BENDING BEHAVIOUR

Blerina KOLGJINI1,2, Gustaaf SCHOUKENS2, Ilda KOLA1, Ermira SHEHI1, Paul KIEKENS2

1 Department of Fashion and Textile, Polytechnic University of Tirana, Sheshi “Nënë Tereza”, no 4, Tirana,

Albania 2Department of Textiles, Ghent University, Technologiepark 907, 9052 Gent, Belgium

[email protected] Abstract: In this paper a detailed analysis of morphological structure of monofilaments of LLDPE, after heat treatment, is presented. The most discussed property for long standing is resilience of monofilaments. Therefore the paper it will be focused on the behaviour of monofilaments. The production line of monofilaments was similar to the industrial one. For a detailed structural analysis are employed three different methods of morphological investigation: DSC, X-ray and Raman. For long term behaviour of monofilaments the dynamic bending test is performed. Based on the obtained results the behaviour of heat treatment samples was improved. This was explained by the increase of the amount of Gauche and Trans structure on the third phase. Keywords: Third phase structure, Raman, DSC, X-Ray, resilience



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Smart textiles

SOME ASPECTS OF SMART ELEMENTS IN CONTEMPORARY MILITARY UNIFORMS

Martinia Ira GLOGAR1; Ivana ŽILJAK STANIMIROVIĆ2 & Đurđica PARAC-OSTERMAN1

University of Zagreb; 1 Faculty of Textile Technology; 2 Faculty of Graphic Arts

[email protected] Abstract: In this paper, a part of the current research will be presented, performed with aim of defining spectral colour characteristics in VIS and NIR spectral area with retrospect on the role of design and new methodology based on macro/micro elements ratio in military camouflage pattern (versus currently adopted methodology of digital design). Also, the analyses of a spectral remission characteristics of a specific green dyes have been performed and were compared over VIS and NIR spectrum in order to define them in a concept of camouflage effect achieving. In this paper, also, a new technology INFRAREDESIGN® has been presented, which is based on resolving and controlling specific colorimetric characteristics and dyes properties in infrared spectrum. The technology processes hidden text, image or graphic, which is not visible by the eye in VIS spectrum but can be detected by using a new Z RGB camera only in NIR waveband. This technology is based on “Twin Dyes” preparation which have equal RGB values in VIS area but different Z values in NIR spectrum. The analyses of “Twin Dyes” performance in VIS and NIR spectrum has been performed. Keywords: Camouflage, patterns, NIR, VIS, smart elements, INFRAREDESIGN® technology

GRAPHENE PRINTING FOR TEXTRONIC DEVICES

Michał PUCHALSKI1, Ewa SKRZETUSKA1, Zbigniew DRACZYŃSKI1, Izabella KRUCIŃSKA1,

Ludwika. LIPIŃSKA2, Joanna JAGIEŁŁO2, Magdalena AKSIENIONEK2, Włodzimierz STUPIŃSKI2, Paweł DĄBROWSKI2, Zbigniew Sieradzki3, Igor WŁASNY4, Maciej ROGALA4, Zbigniew KLUSEK4

1. Department of Material and Commodity Sciences and Textile Metrology,

Lodz University of Technology, Centre of Advanced Technologies of Human-Friendly Textiles ‘Pro Humano tex’, Żeromskiego 116, 90-924 Lodz, Poland

2. Institute of Electronic Materials Technology, Wolczynska 133, 01-919 Warsaw, Poland 3. Electrotechnological Company QWERTY Ltd., Siewna 21, 94-250 Lodz, Poland

4. Department of Solid State Physics, Faculty of Physics and Applied Informatics, University of Lodz, Pomorska 149/153, 90-236 Lodz, Poland

[email protected] Abstract: Graphene has been proved to be an excellent nanomaterial for modern electronic applications such as biosensors, transistors or heaters. The natural point of view is to use this new nanomaterial for the development of unique textronic devices. The current state of the art of the materials science shows design possibilities of the smart textiles with graphene. The authors show the results of implementation of 2D carbon structure into the textronic devices. The development inks and pastes give interesting properties of textile such as electro conductivity and sensitive to the volatile organic compounds. Keywords: Graphene, textronic, ink-jet printing, screen printing



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GLASS/POLYPROPYLENE SENSOR YARNS INTEGRATION DURING WEAVING

OF 2D STRUCTURE

Ana Marija GRANCARIC1; Ivona JERKOVIC1; Clement DUFOUR2; Francois BOUSSU2; Xavier LEGRAND2 and Vladan KONCAR2

1University of Zagreb Faculty of Textile Technology

2Ecole Nationale Supérieure des Arts et Industries Textiles [email protected]

Abstract: Monitoring the structure of composites inside or on its surface and crash tests are difficult to obtain in the same time. Pretest was made by insertion of four developed sensor yarns in weft and four sensor yarns in warp direction during weaving of 2D structures at the ARM loom. The weaving step of 2D fabrics due to checking the thermo-forming consolidation of sensor yarns inserted is considered as important factor for several future applications. Therefore, sensor yarns of one meter total length were made from E-glass/polypropylene (GF/PP) commingled yarn by roll to roll mechanism with plexiglass bath to obtain even coating thickness and uniform distribution. Mostly developed sensors work after its production and integration in 2D structures before consolidation, while its validation after 2D fabric consolidation has to be improved. Keywords: roll to roll coating, sensor yarns, 2D weaving fabric, composites, validation

Testing and quality control INFLUENCE OF PRESSURE ON THERMAL COMFORT PROPERTIES OF CUT

PILE HAND TUFTED NYLON AND PAN CARPETS

Jaruwan DISWAT, Lubos HES, Kausik BAL

Department of Textile Evaluation, Faculty of Textile Engineering, Technical University of Liberec, Czech Republic

[email protected]

Abstract: Tufted carpets, widely used floor coverings consist of surface pile (which can be cut), pile, loop pile and backings. The prominent function of carpets is to provide warmth and comfort including thermal contact comfort to the person walking on it. However, literature on this aspect is rare. This paper deals with thermal insulation and thermal contact properties of hand tufted cut pile carpets. Its main objective is to investigate the influence of the pressure obtained from ALAMBETA instrument on thermal resistance (R) and thermal absorptivity (b) of hand tufted cut pile carpets with varying pile material, tuft density and pile height. The results indicated that thermal absorptivity and thermal resistance of carpets measured at the pressure 300 and 1000 Pascal are significantly different (Student’s t test, p<0.05), and that thermal resistance increases with the carpet thickness. However, thermal absorptivity, a parameter describing the warm-cool feeling seems to be independent of total thickness of carpet.

Key Words: tufted carpet, warm cool feeling, thermal resistance, modelling



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Fiber and textile composites

MELT-SPUN POLYAMIDE-FILAMENTS WITH TIO2-NANOPARTICLES: INFLUENCE ON THERMAL CONDUCTIVITY AND TENSILE STRENGTH

Karolina JAKSIK1; Gunnar SEIDE1 and Thomas GRIES1

1 Institute for Textile Technology of the RWTH University (ITA)

[email protected]

Abstract: One solution for increasing the thermal conductivity of thermoplastics is adding nanoparticles to the polymer. Various titanium dioxide particle types are tested, which differ in their surface area. Also the amount of TiO2 is varied between 0 wt-% and 20 wt-%, because a compromise is needed between increased thermal conductivity and reduced strength and rigidity caused by increasing the concentration of particles. Furthermore, the way of compounding and the influence of dispersant on the particle dispersion in the polymer matrix are examined. Inter alia it could be determined that an amount of 20 wt-% TiO2 in polyamide 6 leads to an increase of thermal conductivity of 26 %. It can be shown that polyamide 6-filaments with 5 wt-% TiO2 can be melt spun. The mechanical properties of these modified filaments are still high enough for further textile treatment. Keywords: Titanium dioxide, polyamide 6, thermal conductivity, filaments, melt spinning process

PHYSICAL MODIFICATION OF POLYPROPYLENE FIBRES FOR SILICATE COMPOSITES

Mária PETKOVÁ; Miroslava HÝLOVÁ; Anna UJHELYIOVÁ; Jozef RYBA

Slovak University of Technology in Bratislava, Faculty of Chemical and Food Technology, Institute of Natural and Synthetic Polymers, Department of Fibres and Textile Chemistry

Radlinského 9, 812 37 Bratislava, Slovak Republic [email protected]

Abstract: PP fibres are used as reinforcement in concretes. Low affinity is characteristic between fibres and cement matrix, which results from non-polar, hydrophobic, physical and chemical inactive polyolefinic character of this polymer, inhibits achieving expected results of reinforced concrete. Therefore increase adhesion of PP fibres to matrix could be achieved by physical modification of PP fibres with inorganic additives. The selection of additive was based on importance of additive for the construction industry of silicate composites. The most importance additive into concrete is silica fume. The aim of our paper is the presentation of properties of PP fibres modified by the nanoadditive. Hereby, there are presented the influence of modification on properties of PP fibres. There will be evaluated the optimization of composition (contents of nanoadditive and dispersant) of prepared PP fibres based on the mechanical and thermomechanical properties, the sorption moisture as well as on the macromorphological structure of PP surface. Keywords: polypropylene, modification, nanoadditive of silica fume, silicate composite



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Textile dyeing and finishing

HALOGEN‐FREE PHOSPHORUS-BASED HYBRID SILICA COATINGS FOR CONFERRING FLAME RETARDANCY TO CELLULOSIC FABRICS

Giuseppe ROSACE1, Jenny ALONGI2, Claudio COLLEONI1, Emanuela GUIDO1 and Giulio

MALUCELLI2

1Department of Engineering and Applied Sciences, University of Bergamo, Bergamo, Italy 2Department of Applied Science and Technology, Politecnico di Torino, Alessandria, Italy

[email protected] Abstract: The present study involves the use of hybrid sol-gel coatings based on silica and phosphorous compounds to develop flame retarded cotton fabrics. To this aim, diethylphosphatoethyltriethoxysilane (DPTS) precursor has been used for the synthesis of several sols in combination with different chemical additives. The DPTS sols were reacted with azo-based compounds to investigate the effect of the concurrent presence of Si, P and N and applied in consecutive depositions on textile samples. Flammability tests were performed to evaluate the flame retardancy of treated cellulosic fabrics. The obtained results have shown that phosphorus-silica network is able to promote the formation of char that acts as insulator barrier. An additive P-N effect of the ceramic oxide matrix in terms of increased residue and decreased heat release rate and total burning time has been observed.

Keywords: Thermal Stability; Cellulosic fabric; Sol-gel; Diethylphosphatoethyltriethoxysilane; Hybrid Material

Textile recycling

APPLICATION OF TEXTILE WASTES FOR THE PRODUCTION OF INNOVATIVE GEOTEXTILES DESIGNED FOR EROSION CONTROL

Jan BRODA, Monika ROM, Joanna GRZYBOWSKA-PIETRAS, Stanislawa PRZYBYLO and

Ryszard LASZCZAK

Institute of Textile Engineering and Polymer Materials, University of Bielsko-Biala, Willowa 2, 43-309 Bielsko-Biala, Poland

[email protected] Abstract: The coarse ropes designed for production of innovative protective geotextiles were obtained. For the production of ropes textile wastes were used. The ropes made from different materials were buried in the soil for six months. The mechanical parameters of materials forming the sheath and cover of the ropes before and after ground disposal were measured and morphology of the ropes were analysed. It was revealed that jute fabrics used as rope covers as well as sisal and cotton twine used for the formation of outer sheath degrade quickly. Cellulosic materials do not ensure the mechanical integrity of the ropes after ground disposal and are not suitable for the production thereof. On contrary, the wool nonwoven and nonwoven produced from recycled fibres biodegrade much slower. Despite of the degradation of outer sheath the ropes keep their integrity and may maintain their protective function in the ground for several months. Keywords: geotextiles, erosion protection, Kemafil rope, textile waste, biodegradation



11

POSTERS

ADVANCED FIBERS

BIO-INNOVATIVE FLAX RETTING

Ružica BRUNŠEK1; Anita TARBUK1 and Jasminka BUTORAC2

1 University of Zagreb, Faculty of Textile Technology 2 University of Zagreb, Faculty of Agriculture

[email protected] Abstract: Flax (Linum usitatissimum L.) is an important commercial crop that supplies both linseed and bast fibres for multiple applications. Retting, which is a microbial process, separates industrially useful bast fibres from non-fibre stem tissues. While several methods (i.e., water- and dew-retting) are used to ret flax, more recently enzymes have been evaluated to replace currently used methods. The enzymes remove the non-cellulosic compounds from the technical fibres, and at the same time are biodegradable and non-toxic, with no dependence on the weather conditions. Therefore, in this paper an enzymatic retting was researched, and its influence to the flax quality. Comparing the properties of enzyme-retted flax fibres the properties of water-retted ones, it can be found that enzymatic retted fibres are coarser, but much stronger. The results have shown that the strongest fibre was achieved with bath having enzyme concentration 0.2 % with similar fineness compared with other bath concentration. Therefore, this concentration can be considered as optimal one. The use of enzymes to extract fibres provides an environmentally friendly method toward developing reliable and sustainable agriculture using bio-based fibres of enhance quality. Keywords: Flax fibres, enzymatic retting, fineness, tenacity

PREPARATION OF THE POLYPROPYLENE FIBRES WITH CONTENT OF PHOTOCHROMIC PIGMENTS

Marcela HRICOVA; Veronika HRABOVSKA and Anna UJHELYIOVA

Department of Fibre and Textile Chemistry, Institute of Natural and Synthetic Polymers

Faculty of Chemical and Food Technology, Slovak University of Technology in Bratislava [email protected]

Abstract: In this paper, the effect of photochromic pigments on spinnability, drawability and properties of pigmented polypropylene (PP) fibers is presented. The commercial types of PP and photochromic pigment (Photopia® Purple) were used in experimental work. Mechanical properties (tenacity and elongation at break as well as Young’s modulus), thermo-mechanical properties and factor of average orientation of composite fibers were evaluated and discussed. The surface and cross-section of these fibres were monitored using the light microscope. The obtained results indicate the possibility of preparation of the fibres with photochromic pigments in mass. Keywords: Polypropylene fibres, photochromic pigment, mechanical properties, UV radiation.



12

Fiber and textile composites

TENSILE PROPERTIES OF POLYPROPYLENE/HALLOYSITE COMPOSITE FIBRES

Jozef RYBA1; Anna UJHELYIOVÁ1, Tomáš MACKUĽAK2

Slovak University of Technology in Bratislava, Faculty of Chemical and Food Technology, 1Department of Fibres and Textile Chemistry; 2Department of Environmental Engineering

Radlinského 9, 812 37 Bratislava, Slovak Republic [email protected]

Abstract: Polypropylene (PP) is an important commercial polymer widely used to produce technical and textile composite fibres due to its well-balanced physical and mechanical properties and easy processability at a relatively low cost. The application of PP in various industrial sectors can be further expanded once its mechanical performances have been highly upgraded. Halloysite nanotubes (HNTs) have recently become the subject of research attention as a new type of additive for enhancing the mechanical, thermal and fire-retardant performance of polymers. Common halloysites can be found in form of fine, tubular structures with a length of 300~1500 nm and with inner and outer diameters of 15–100 nm and 40–120 nm respectively. Compared with other nanofillers, HNTs are more easily dispersed in polymer matrix by shearing due to their rod-like geometry and limited intertubular contact area. The aim of this paper is the presentation of properties of PP fibres modified by HNTs. Therefore results of modification of polypropylene fibres are presented. Content of nanoadditive HNTs and reactive modifier DBMI in fibres has no negative influence on spinning process. Fineness and breaking elongation of all types of prepared fibres decreased with increasing of drawing ratio. Tenacity and Young´s modulus of modified PP fibres with content of 0.5 wt.% of HNTs was higher in comparison with nonmodified PP fibres . Expected positive influence of reactive modifier DBMI onto tensile properties of composite PP/HNTs fibres wasn’t proofed. Keywords: polypropylene, halloysite nanotubes, composite fibres

ARAMID SAILS

Edita VUJASINOVIĆ and Marijana PAVUNC SAMARŽIJA

University of Zagreb, Faculty of Textile Technology [email protected]

Abstract: Although aramid fibres belong to the group of high performance fibres, and laminated sailcloth to the most wanted racing sails, sometimes it is not sufficient for winning the race, and a question arises - why? Since maximum sail performance or usage can be achieved only with optimal aerodynamic shape of sails, stability of the initial sail shape, its air impermeability and smooth surface, it becomes clear that sailcloth, beside sail’s design, presents key factor for winning a race. The quality of laminated sailcloth made of aramid fibres was investigated and some recommendations on its usability are given. Keywords: aramid fibres, sailcloth, laminated sails, sail's quality.



13

UV PROTECTION PROPERTIES OF HEMP/TACTEL HYBRID YARN KNITTED FABRICS

Snežana STANKOVIĆ1; Dušan POPOVIĆ2; Ana KOCIĆ1; Goran POPARIĆ2

1 University of Belgrade, Faculty of Technology and Metallurgy

2 University of Belgrade, Faculty of Physics [email protected]

Abstract: For this research the idea was to produce specially blended knitted fabrics from hemp/polyamide textured filament (Tactel®) hybrid yarns in order to provide clothing materials with effective UV protection properties, keeping satisfied comfort properties as well. To obtain the novel designed hybrid yarns, folding technique was used. The Ultraviolet Protection Factor (UPF), as a quantitative measure of the effectiveness of the material to protect human skin against UV radiation, was determined by in vitro test method according to European standard. The physical properties of the knitted fabrics related to their UV protection properties: bulk density, porosity and air permeability were also determined. The hemp/tactel knitted fabrics were compared with pure hemp knit in terms of UV protection. Even though the pure hemp knitted fabric was placed in the “excellent UV protection category” due to lignin in hemp fibres which acts as UV absorber, the hemp/filament knitted fabrics exhibited even higher UPF. In addition, some thermophysiological comfort parameters can be improved as well.

Keywords: UPF, hemp, Tactel, hybrid yarn, rib knitted fabric, air permeability.

EVALUATION OF FIBRES FROM SEED AND FIBRE FLAX VARIETIES (Linum usitatissimum L.) AS A POTENTIAL REINFORCEMENT OF POLYMER

COMPOSITES

Antoneta TOMLJENOVIĆ1; Tatjana RIJAVEC2; Darja KOCJAN AČKO3; Matea MEĐUGORAC1 and Rebeka VUČICA1

1 University of Zagreb, Faculty of Textile Technology, Department of Materials, Fibres and Textile Testing,

Zagreb, Croatia 2 University of Ljubljana, Faculty of Natural Sciences and Engineering, Department of Textiles, Graphics

Arts and Design, Ljubljana, Slovenia 3University of Ljubljana, Biotechnical faculty, Department of Agriculture, Ljubljana, Slovenia

[email protected]

Abstract: For investigation, technical fibres extracted from flax Linum usitatissimum L. fibre variety planted in Croatia and from Slovenian autochthonous variety from Bela Krajina were used. Flax steams of fibre variety were subjected to water retting for 72 hours, but flax steams of seed variety was dew retted for 4 weeks. Dried retted stems were passed through a mechanical process of breaking and scotching, which were followed by heckling and combing, where the fibres were separated in four length groups. Moisture regain, length, fineness and tensile properties were determined for each length group of both varieties. The properties of investigated flax varieties were different but comparable, as well as the properties of individual fibre’s length groups within the same variety. It was concluded that flax fibres from seed and fibre varieties have adequate morphological and mechanical properties for reinforcing polymer matrix composites. Keywords: Linum usitatissimum L., fibre flax variety, seed flax variety, fibre reinforcement, composites



14

TECHNICAL TEXTILES

INFLUENCE OF TESTING METHODS ON THE SHEAR PROPERTIES OF E-GLASS WOVEN FABRICS

Željko PENAVA1; Diana ŠIMIĆ PENAVA2 and Željko KNEZIĆ1

University of Zagreb, 1Faculty of Textile Technology; 2Faculty of Civil Engineering

[email protected] Abstract: Shear behaviour is one of the most important mechanical characteristics that contribute to the performance and appearance of woven fabrics. During shear deformation, the fabric yarns experience large angular variation between warp and weft yarns. In this paper, plain weave E-Glass woven fabrics were investigated to describe their shear behaviour in terms of shear forces, shear angles and shear stresses, using the direct shear force measurement and picture frame test methods. Tests were conducted on specimens that were fastened in two parallel clamps of the tensile tester and specimens that were clamped in a picture frame. Specialized rig and clamps for shearing fabrics were designed and manufactured. Shear force acts on specimens that are cut in the warp and weft direction. The initial shear modulus of woven fabrics was also determined. Results show that both methods are valid and produce comparable results of shear forces, shear angles and shear stresses. Keywords: picture frame test, pure shear, direct shear force measurement, E-glass woven fabric, shear force, initial shear modulus.

Textile modification

POLYESTER FIBRES STRUCTURE MODIFICATION USING SOME ORGANIC SOLUTIONS

Jelena MITIĆ1; Goran AMIN2; Marija KODRIĆ2; Miodrag ŠMELCEROVIĆ1 and Dragan

ĐORĐEVIĆ2

1 Higher Professional Shool, Vilema Pušmana 17, Leskovac, Serbia 2 Faculty of Technology, Bulevar oslobođenja 124, Leskovac, Serbia

[email protected]

Abstract: The treatment causes only minor decrease in fibre, i.e. yarn strength, while breaking elongation increases significantly, almost up to 150 % in comparison to the untreated sample. Organic solvents, i.e. plasticizer solutions in the organic solvents mixture influence fibre properties in a very favorable way, i.e. they can enable better dyeing, better moisture absorption, easier treatment in further phases of textile products manufacture and generally better usability. X-ray structural analysis was used to examine the influence of the treatment of polyester fibres in the form of filament yarn, fineness 75/26 dtex, with solutions 0.3, 0.6 and 0.9 % hydroquinone and α-naphtole in the solvent mixture which contained chlorophorm and methanol (solubility parameter δ=11.7) on changing of crystalline degree and crystallite size. It was found that treated fibres showed sharper reflexion on diffractograms than untreated ones, i.e. they showed higher crystalline degree but smaller crystallite size.

Keywords: polyester yarns, modification, organic solutions, crystalline degree, strength, elongation.



15

BIOMODIFICATION OF POLYESTER FABRIC ENHANCED BY ULTRASOUND

Jelena MITIĆ1; Marija KODRIĆ2; Goran AMIN2; Dragan ĐORĐEVIĆ2 and Miodrag

ŠMELCEROVIĆ1

1 Higher Professional School, Vilema Pušmana 17, Leskovac, Serbia 2 Faculty of Technology, Bulevar oslobođenja 124, Leskovac, Serbia

[email protected]

Abstract: The influence of ultrosound and the three commercial lipases form Biocatalysis to surface modification of polyester fabric was researched in this paper. Treatments, i.e. interactions of enzymes and the fabric are done in aqueous buffer solutions. It was selected the inorganic phosphate buffer and used it throughout this study. The effects of ultrasound to hydrolysis of polyester fabric by varying the conditions of treatment it was investigated. The frequency of the applied ultrasonic oscillations is 480 kHz, and the power used 50 W. Two of the tree lipases help of ultrasound energy to improve the water wetting and absorpton properties of regular a polyester fabric more than alkaline hydrolysis. The process probably does not cause major damages of the fibre surface or major reorganisation of the surface layers of the polyester fibres. Biopreparation of polyester with ultrasound and enzymes has a significant influence on sorption characteristics and initial migration of dye into the surface layers. Keywords: polyester fabric, biomodification, enzymes, lipases, ultrasound, dyeing.

CUTINASE HYDROLISIS OF POLY(ETHYLENE TEREPHTALATE) FABRIC

Anita TARBUK, Ana Marija GRANCARIĆ and Ivana ČORAK

University of Zagreb, Faculty of Textile Technology, Zagreb, CROATIA [email protected]

Abstract: The surface of polyester fabric made of poly(ethylene-terephthalate) (PET) needs to be modified for better comfort and other properties. The conventional modifications as e.g. aminolysis with EDA and hydrolysis with NaOH, are not environmentally friendly. Therefore, the alternative methods of PET hydrolysis are researched to reduce water consumption, increase energy-efficiency and cut emissions of hazardous chemicals. One of alternative is enzymatic surface modification. The present paper deals with the cutinase modification of polyester fabric surface for achieving better hydrophilicity, and potential silk-like fabric. Cutinases were applied in two concentrations for 80, 100 and 120°C. The characterization of surface and chemical composition of such treated polyester fabrics is performed by scanning electron microscopy (SEM) on FEI Quanta 200 Scanning Electron Microscope with magnification 2500x; and Fourier Transform Infrared - Attenuated Total Reflectance (FTIR-ATR) spectroscopy on Perkin-Elmer Spectrum 100 FT-IR. Keywords: PET, surface modification, hydrolysis, cutinase, SEM, FTIR



16

IONIC SURFACTANT ADSORPTION ON CATIONIZED LYOCELL FIBERS

Ksenija VIŠIĆ; Katia GRGIĆ; Anita TARBUK and Tanja PUŠIĆ

University of Zagreb, Faculty of Textile Technology, Zagreb, CROATIA [email protected]

Abstract: The most important phase in textile finishing processes is adsorption of chemical compounds and substances on textile materials surface. Lyocell fibers, like most textile fibers, are negatively charged in neutral and alkali aqueous solutions. Therefore, the adsorption of anionic textile auxiliaries, dyestuffs, optical brighteners and finishing agents is difficult due to repulsive forces. Therefore, in this paper Lyocell fibers were cationized with three different compounds - short chain quaternary ammonium compounds, 3-chloro-2-hydroxypropyl-trimethyl ammonium chloride (CHPTAC), and long chain commercial products for the same purpose – cationic reactive polyammonium compounds Rewin OS (CHT/Bezema), and Rewin DWR (CHT/Bezema). Surfactants are essential for wet treatment of textiles. Its adsorption highly depends on ionogenity, particle size, and length of hydrophobic part as well as treatment conditions applied. For that reason, the ionic surfactant adsorption below and above critical micellar concentration (CMC) were investigated, as well as electrokinetic potential and specific amount of surface charge of such cationized Lyocell fibers. Keywords: Lyocell, Cationization, Electrokinetic Phenomena, Surfactant Adsorption.

Textile dyeing and finishing

THE INFLUENCE OF ALUMINOSILICATE ON THERMAL PROPERTIES OF

COTTON FABRIC

Lea BOTTERI1; Ana Marija GRANCARIĆ1; Ivana FILIPČIĆ2 and Anita TARBUK1

1 University of Zagreb, Faculty of Textile Technology, Zagreb, CROATIA

2 Splendor tekstil d.o.o., Petrovaradinska 1 a, Zagreb, CROATIA [email protected]

Abstract: Cotton fabric and blends is the most commonly used textile material in design and production of protective clothing, accounting for more than 60% of the world annual consumption. However, as mainly consisting of cellulose, cotton textiles are the most flammable materials it is necessary to improve its flame retardancy. For this purpose dyed cotton fabric has been treated with zeolite added to the bath with flame retardant. Natural zeolite (clinoptilolite) was applied in three different concentrations, whilst the traditional flame retardant based on organophosphonate, and crosslinking agent based on melamine resin were applied in full and a half concentration. Such finished cotton fabrics were characterized by FTIR; thermal properties were determined by using Micro Combustion Calorimeter (MCC) and Thermogravimetric analysis (TGA); and burning behavior vertically oriented specimens was determined by the bottom edge ignition according ASTM D6413-13, and the candle-like ignition according to ISO 4589:1996 in Limiting Oxygen Index (LOI) Chamber (Dynisco). The aluminosilicates added to the bath contributed to flame retardancy of fabrics. Furthermore, treated cotton fabrics show high protective properties after 3 washing cycles. Keywords: cotton, flame retardancy, aluminosilicate, FTIR, TGA, MCC, LOI



17

INFLUENCE OF ALKALINE ULTRASOUND PRE-TREATMENT ON THE

CROSSLINKING ENVIRONMENTALLY FRIENDLY FLAME RETARDANT AGENT WITH CELLULOSIC MATERIAL

Sandra FLINČEC GRGAC 1 Andrea KATOVIĆ2 and Ivana KLJAJIĆ1

1Univesity of Zagreb Faculty of Textile Technology, Prilaz baruna Filipovića 28 a, 10000 Zagreb

2 University of Calabria, Department of Environmental and Chemical Engineering, Via P. Bucci 44A, 87030 Rende (CS), Italy [email protected]

Abstract: The use of ultrasounds in the textile wet processing has been found to have great utility since they alter the fibre structure increasing their absorption as well as raising the diffusion coefficient of chemical molecules. Starting from these premises, the aim of this study was to investigate the effects of alkaline ultrasound pre-treatment on the cross linking of non-halogenated hydroxyl functional organophosphorus (Non-halogenide HFOP) flame retardant agent and citric acid (CA) as a bonding agent on the cellulose material. Flame retardance was tested using Limiting oxygen index (LOI) technique according to ISO 4589-2. The thermal and physico chemical properties of the so obtained flame retardant samples were characterized by thermogravimetric analysis, coupled thermal gravimetric - Fourier transforms infrared technique (TG-FTIR) and Fourier transforms infrared spectroscopy (FTIR). The results indicate that a more stable bonding between cellulose and flame retardant agents was achieved in the sample which was pre-treated in an ultrasound alkaline bath. Keywords: alkaline ultrasound pre-treatment, flame retardance finishing, cotton, FTIR spectroscopy, TG-FT-IR, tensile properties of fabrics.

DETERMINATION OF α-TOCOPHEROL IN COSMETOTEXTILES– UV/VIS SPECTROPHOTOMETRIC METHOD

Iva MATIJEVIĆ1, Sandra BISCHOF1, Ana SUTLOVIĆ1 & Tanja PUŠIĆ1

1University of Zagreb, Faculty of Textile Technology, Zagreb, Croatia

[email protected] Abstract: Tocopherol is a chemical name for vitamin E that belongs to the group of amphipathic and lipid-soluble compounds that are easily oxidized when subjected to heat, light and alkaline conditions. Vitamin E can be used as active cosmetic substance for functionalization of textiles, acting as anti-ageing agent through gradual release on the skin. The paper deals with cosmetotextiles, carriers of Vitamin E contained in a suspension of cyclodextrine - α-tocopherol complex, applied in finishing. Research is focused on development of a method for determination of α-tocopherol in a form metal organic chelate complex using UV/VIS spectrophotometry. Keywords: cosmetotextiles, α-tocopherol, desorption, UV/VIS spectrophotometric analysis



18

MODIFICATION OF FINE COTTON FABRIC WITH FLOATED YARNS IN WASHING AND WET CLEANING

Tatjana RIJAVEC1, Simona JEVŠNIK2, Ivo SOLJAČIĆ3, Ksenija VIŠIĆ3, Antoneta

TOMLJENOVIĆ3 and Tanja PUŠIĆ3

1University of Ljubljana, Faculty of Natural Sciences and Engineering, Snežniška 5, 1000 Ljubljana,

Slovenia 2University of Maribor, Faculty of Mechanical Engineering, Smetanova 17, 2000 Maribor, Slovenia

3University of Zagreb, Faculty of Textile Technology, Prilaz baruna Filipovića 28a, 10000 Zagreb, Croatia [email protected]

Abstract: In this article the effect of washing and wet cleaning processes on the properties of the fine cotton fabrics with high yarn floatation is compared. Fabric characterization before and after durable press (DP) finishing and after one, three and ten cycles of washing and wet cleaning is made by measuring mass per unit area, water retention value, crease resistance, flexural rigidity, tensile properties and electrokinetic potential. The results show that improvements of a crease resistance and flexural rigidity attained by a DP finishing are preserved much more at wet cleaning than at washing processes. It has been found that the ability of water absorption, which is due to hydrolysis of cross-linked hydroxyl groups in the cellulose molecules, increased after 3 cycles of washing, while still at 10 cycles of wet cleaning was not observed significant changes. Keywords: fine cotton fabric, yarn flotation, washing, wet cleaning, crease recovery, durable press finishing, property testing.

PROPERTIES OF TEXTILES FROM PP FIBRES MODIFIED WITH MULTIFUNCTIONAL ADDITIVES

Jozef ŠESTÁK1, Ľudmila BALOGOVÁ1, Peter MICHLÍK2, Štefan KRIVOŠ2, Vladimír ZIMÁNY3

1Research Institute for Textile Chemistry (VÚTCH) – CHEMITEX, Ltd., Žilina, Slovak Republic 2Research Institute for Man-Made Fibres,JSC, Svit, Slovak Republic

3CHEMOSVIT-FIBROCHEM, JSC, Svit, Slovak Republic [email protected]

Abstract: Goal of the research is preparation of multifunctional concentrates offering properties of: flammability reduction (FR), enhancement of UV resistance (UV) and antimicrobial finish (AMB). Basic characteristics of the prepared multifunctional concentrates used for treatment of polypropylene fibres are presented.and their effectiveness against flame, UV radiation and microbes were tested. Obtained results of change of selected performance characteristics of the textiles in relation to their construction and possibilities of practical application are compared in discussion. The achieved results revealed positive effect of the developed concentrate (28/1676 type) containing FR component on reduction of time of spontaneous flame burning of the knitted fabrics by 20 seconds in comparison with the standard. Besides, reduction of strength of the modified knitted fabric by the influence of UV radiation only by 5 % in comparison with 95 % after exposition on a standard knitted fabric was achieved. Tests for antibacterial activity confirmed high degree of bacterial reduction (> 90%) on knitted fabrics from the modified PP fibre. This way high efficiency of the multifunctional concentrate (FR and UV and AMB) 28/1676 type was confirmed. Keywords: multifunctional concentrates, multifunctional PP fibres, reduced flammability, UV resistance, antimicrobial finish.



19

LOW-, MIDDLE- AND HIGH-LEVEL OF OXIDIZED CELLULOSE OBTAINED BY

DIFFERENT OXIDATION SYSTEMS

Emilija TOSHIKJ, Igor JORDANOV, Biljana MANGOVSKA

Faculty of Technology and Metallurgy, Department of Textiles, University Ss. Cyril and Methodius, Ruger Boskovic 16, Skopje, Republic of Macedonia

[email protected] Abstract: Referent cotton yarns, obtained by rigorous alkaline scouring and oxidative bleaching, were oxidized by K-periodate and TEMPO oxidation systrems with different concentration and treatment time to obtain low-, middle- and high-level of oxidized cotton. Oxidized cotton were treated with sodium chlorite to convert aldehyde to carboxyle groups. Introduced functional groups through conductometric titration, Ca-acetate and TTC methods and degradation through mechanical properties and solubility in sodium hydroxide were analyzed on the obtained oxycelluloses. Properly selected oxidation system and working conditions gave satisfactory results for achiving low-, middle-, and high-level of oxidized cotton with given degradation profile. For a short time higher quantity of functional groups can be achieved by K-periodate and TEMPO with sodium bromide, while by bromide-free TEMPO oxidation system for a longer time. Oxycellulose with enriched aldehyde groups have higher mechanical properties but are more soluble to sodium hydroxide solution compared to carboxyl group enriched oxycelluloses. Converison of aldehyde to carboxyl groups decrease solubility of oxidized cotton in sodium hydroxide solution. Keywords: Oxidation, cotton, aldehyde, carboxyl, degradation.

THE APPLICATION OF MICROENCAPSULATED ACID DYES AND ELECTROLYTES TO DYEING POLYAMIDE

Adam VOJTOVIC1, Michal CERNY1, Ladislav BURGERT1, Jiri PALARCIK1 and

Milan VLCEK2

1University of Pardubice, Studentska 95, 532 10 Pardubice, Czech Republic

2Joint Laboratory of Solid State Chemistry, Studentska 95, 532 10 Pardubice, Czech Republic [email protected]

Abstract: The aim of this experiment is encapsulate acid dyestuff for dyeing Polyamide 66. This modification causes slower exhaustion of acid dyestuff from the dye bath to fibre. Liposomes, containing the dyestuff, release the molecules of dye later than normally. Molecules of the encapsulate dyestuff have better migration on the textiles. The textile dyestuff and ammonium salts are encapsulated to liposome of soy lecithin separately. Spray drying method is chosen for the encapsulation process. Several types of powder with encapsulated dyestuff or electrolyte are prepared. These types of powders are mainly used for dyeing Polyamide 66 due to significant unlevelness of polyamide fibers. Keywords: Polyamide 66, soy lecithin, spray drying, microencapsulation, acid dyes, liposome.



20

Testing and quality control

DESIGN OF LAYERED TEXTILE COMPOSITES WITH HIGH STABILITY STRUCTURE

Viktoriia VLASENKO and Arsenii ARABULI

Kiev National University of Technologies and Design / Ukraine

[email protected]

Abstract: This paper focuses on an experimental investigation of the visco-elastic properties of textiles under dynamic conditions by the longitudinal resonance vibrations method. Analysis of the experimental results illustrates that the visco-elastic properties of textile composites depend on the characteristics of the individual materials. We assume that with knowledge of the visco-elastic properties of individual textile materials in various directions, we can control the anisotropy of multilayer textile properties and design the layered textile composites with high stability structure Keywords: multilayer textiles, visco-elastic properties, anisotropy, high stability structure

APPLICATION OF MOISTURE MANAGEMENT TESTER FOR DESIGN OF MULTILAYER TEXTILE COMPOSITES

Viktoriia VLASENKO1, Lenka MARTINKOVA2 and Svitlana ARABULI1

1Kiev National University of Technologies and Design / Ukraine

2INOTEX Ltd, Dvur Kralove, Czech Republic [email protected]

Abstract: This paper focuses on an experimental investigation of the moisture management properties of textiles by using the Moisture Management Tester (MMT). This method used to quantitatively measure liquid moisture transfer in one step in a fabric in multidirections, where liquid moisture spreads on both surfaces of the fabric and transfers from one surface to the opposite. Analysis of the experimental results illustrates that the moisture management properties of textile composites depend on the characteristics of the initial textiles. We assume that with knowledge of the moisture management properties of initial textiles, we can design the layered textile composites with predicted liquid moisture transport properties. Keywords: multilayer textiles, liquid moisture transfer, controlling of properties



21

Textile recycling RESYNTEX

A new circular economy concept: from textile waste towards chemical and textile industries feedstock (Presentation of EU project)

Alenka MAJCEN LE MARECHAL 1, Arun P. ANEJA 1, Aleksandra LOBNIK 1,2,

Bojana VONČINA 1, Julija VOLMAJER VALH 1 and Simona VAJNHANDL 1

1University of Maribor,Institute of Engineering Materials and Design, Laboratory for Chemistry and

Environmental Protection, 2Institute for Environmental protection and Sensors Maribor (IOS) [email protected]

Abstract: The RESYNTEX project aims at designing, developing and demonstrating a new industrial symbiosis between textile waste and the chemical industry. The new original symbiosis is based on the chemical/enzymatic transformation of textile waste in a form that facilitates the easy take up as feedstock by the chemical industry in order to produce high added value chemicals. The parallel production of various high added value products ensures competitive production costs for the chemical market. As a result, economic advantages can be provided besides prevention of industrial environmental problems. The project will consider and demonstrate the whole value chain starting from the citizen behaviour change and the textile collection of unwearable textiles, improving and automatizing the industrial sorting, demonstrating the production of the transformed textile components and the symbiosis with the obtained chemical products and finally analysing the best economic models and policy actions for a successful introduction in EU markets. Keywords: textile waste, recycling, chemical depolymerisation, enzymatic transformation, circular economy, symbiosis.

Ecology in textiles

HERBAL EXTRACTS – WASHING AGENTS FOR COLOURED FABRICS?

Tihana DEKANIĆ, Tanja PUŠIĆ and Ivo SOLJAČIĆ

University of Zagreb, Faculty of Textile Technology, Zagreb, Croatia [email protected]

Abstract: Selection of saponins as natural detergents for washing of textiles contributes to the promotion of green chemistry in textile applications. Herbs such as European Ivy, wild chestnut, soapwort and soap nut shell are sources of saponins with specific hydrophilic and oleophilic character able to provide detergency properties. The objective of this research is to study the washing performance of saponins from European Ivy (Hedera helix) and soap nut shells (Sapindus mukorossi) in comparison to standard detergents and commercial products. The primary criterion is a colour preservation of pastel and dark shaded cotton and wool fabrics in washing at 40°C. The second criterion is UPF enhancement. Washing performance of applied agents was evaluated through optical and protective characteristics of fabrics based on colour difference and Ultraviolet Protection Factor (UPF). The results confirmed a multifunctional ability of saponins from herbal extracts for colour protection and enhanced UPF of washed cotton and wool fabrics.

Keywords: washing agent, saponin, colour, Ultraviolet Protection Factor (UPF), herbal extracts



22

Textile and fashion design

DESIGN AND PATTERN MAKING OF FUNCTIONAL UNISEX RAINWEAR

Damir BEGOVIĆ1, Nives BOŠNJAK1 and Jacqueline DOMJANIĆ1

1 University of Zagreb Faculty of Textile Technology, Zagreb, Croatia

[email protected]

Abstract: Nowadays, the design of clothing for specific purposes known as functional clothing involves specific demands in order to deliver protective and functional performance to the end-user. This paper consists of a structural overview and an analysis of the design, pattern making and pattern alterations based on the properties of the PU coated knitted fabric and one polyester woven fabric for the design and development of a functional unisex rainwear for personal protection. It analyses the way the garment was created, the way it looks and the way it behaves. Bundesmann Rain Shower Tester was used for evaluation of water repellency of the selected fabrics. Based on the designed garment, loose fitting pattern blocks were developed using body measurements. Keywords: pattern making, pattern adjustment, rain poncho, coated material, Bundesmann Rain Shower Tester.

THE EFFECT OF COLOUR FREQUENCY IN EVERY DAY CLOTHING ON LEARNING AND BEHAVIOUR OF PRIMARY SCHOOL PUPILS

Vesna HAJSAN DOLINAR1, Martinia Ira GLOGAR2 and Đurđica PARAC-OSTERMAN2

1The head of Primary school Žakanje

2University of Zagreb Faculty of Textile Technology [email protected]

Abstract: In this paper, the research of impact of colour frequency in everyday clothing on psycho – physical and emotional responses, has been performed on group of primary school pupils. This study is a smaller part of comprehensive research that has been performed in a frame of PhD thesis, as contribution to a project held in primary school “Žakanje”, with purpose of increasing the teacher – pupil interaction as well as increasing the ability of teaching material content acceptance. The study has been performed based on every day monitoring of personal colour preferences of a tested group of primary school pupils, and connecting those preferences to their specific behaviour and academic performances. The objective analyses of colours defined by monitoring has been performed using spectrophotometric measurement and CIE system based data processing. Some gender differences in colour preferences has been proved, but in general the results proved the significant frequency of blue, green, red, grey and black colour hue in everyday clothing of primary school pupils. Keywords: pupils, colour preferences, colour emotional impact, colour objective parameters



23

APPLICATION OF ADDITIVE TECHNOLOGY IN FOOTWEAR DESIGN

Suzana KUTNJAK-MRAVLINČIĆ, Sandra BISCHOF and Ana SUTLOVIĆ

University of Zagreb, Faculty of Textile Technology, Prilaz baruna Filipovica 28a, Zagreb, Croatia

[email protected]

Abstract: Footwear functional parts of complex shape can be made with high precision and good dimensional tolerance using 3D printing method. It also has the possibility of making very thin layers and a smooth surface of the products which makes it very valuable in the development of new technology and products. Creation of a 3D prototype is providing the 2D procedures a possibility of developing an individual segment of footwear, fifht, soles, heels, accessories or the whole model with complex geometry. Additive technology enables usage and mixture of different materials providing diversity of shapes, mechanical features and colours. It also provides wider opportunities for the designer offering easier production of functional and wanted spatial and planar shape. Further investigation of the potential of the additive technology as advanced technology in footwear design will be focus on testing the aesthetic and functional aspect within project ADVANCETEX. Keywords: additive technologies, 3D printing, footwear design, model development

THE EFFECT OF FASHION DESIGN ON IMPULSE BUYING

Sanda RENKO1, Alica GRILEC KAURIĆ2 and Mario LEŠINA3

1University of Zagreb, Faculty of Economics and Business, J.F. Kennedy 6, Zagreb, Croatia 2University of Zagreb, Faculty of Textile Technology, Prilaz baruna Filipovića 28a, Zagreb, Croatia

3PhD student candidate at the Faculty of Economics Osijek, Croatia [email protected]

Abstract: Impulse buying is spontaneous and immediate buying where buyer is not actively searching for a product and has not previously planned to buy it. It is a buying decision made by customers on the spot after seeing the merchandise. There are many factors that influence the impulse buying behaviour, but literature differs concerning the number and the scope of them. The main goal of this paper is to investigate the influence of factors within the stores on impulse buying of clothes, and particularly to discover the role of clothes fashion design among them. The quantitative study conducted on the sample of 261 Croatian consumers show that among the factors that affect impulse buying (such as lighting, colours, layout of stores, etc.) clothes design and position within the store are important ones, but that employees still have the greatest influence on impulse buying for Croatian customers. Keywords: impulse buying, clothes, fashion design



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List of sponsors

Anton Paar GmbH, Graz, AT

Etno butik Mara, Zagreb, HR

Jacquard, Zagreb, HR

Mako d.o.o., Osijek, HR

Matić d.o.o., Zagreb, HR

Turistička zajednica grada Zagreba, HR CD-ROM Book of Proceedings of the 8th Central European Conference on Fiber-grade Polymers, Chemical Fibers and Special Textiles ISBN 978-953-7105-63-1 CIP is available in digital catalogue at National and University Library in Zagreb under the No. 000912057.



General Information Date September 16th – 18th, 2015 Location University of Zagreb Faculty of Textile Technology Prilaz baruna Filipovića 28a Zagreb, Croatia Official language English

E-mail: [email protected] Phone/Fax: + (385) (1) 37 12 500

Official web site:

http://cec2015.ttf.unizg.hr

Zagreb

Documents

PROGRAMME & ABSTRACTScec2015.ttf.unizg.hr/downloads/CEC2015-Book_of_Abstracts.pdf · PROGRAMME & ABSTRACTS Organized by University of Zagreb Faculty of Textile Technology Zagreb,