Preston’s Wire Sculpted Pendant Setting - Variation 101 Free Premium Pattern… · Wire Jewelry Tutorial #101 • Design by Preston Reuther We have made every effort to ensure the

Wire Jewelry Tutorial #101 • Design by Preston Reuther

We have made every effort to ensure the accuracy and completeness of these instructions. We cannot, however, be responsible for human error, typographical mistakes or variations in individual work. © 2009 Preston Reuther All rights reserved. This publication may not be reproduced in part of in whole without written permission from the author.

Tools:• Pin Vise or Automatic Wire Twister• Metal Marking Pen (Sharpie™)• Flat Nose Pliers• Chain Nose Pliers• Round Nose Pliers• Flush Cutters• 6” Steel Ruler• Polishing Cloth• Safety Glasses (optional)

Supplies:• Oval cabochon (40mm x 30mm)• 4 pcs 18” long (21-gauge square dead soft gold-filled wire)• 1 pc, 4” long Bail wrap wire (18-gauge half round gold-filled wire)• 1 pc 8” long (21-gauge square dead soft gold-filled wire)

Preston’s Wire Sculpted PendantSetting - Variation 101

(Skill Level: Advanced)

A NOTE FROM PRESTON: Gold and silver wire is relatively expensive, so to keep your costs down, practice this piece in 21 gauge, dead soft, square copper or brass wire until you get your sculpted jewelry looking good and ready for market. REMEMBER: this is free-form wire sculpture and, much like your handwriting, everyone’s techniques will be different and the results will be amazingly unique!

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Wire Sculpted Pendant Setting - #101

PREP STEPSStep 1Cut four pieces of 21-gauge square wire, 18 inches long. These four pieces of wire are going to be known as the main body of wire or the sculpting wires.

Step 2Cut another piece of 21-gauge square dead soft wire, 10 inches long, and twist the whole wire, end to end. You may use an automatic wire twister or use a pin vise to twist (Fig. 1). This wire will be known as the cross bar wire. Set aside temporarily.

To twist wire with automatic wire twister:1) Put wire in chuck piece and tighten chuck on wire.2) Hold the other end of the wire with chain or flat nose pliers.3) Push button on automatic wire twister, which rotates the chuck in either direction.

Step 3: Prepare your wireHold all four smooth wires in one hand and with a polishing cloth (any kind, impregnated with red rouge polish) rub your wire out to give it a little bit of strength (much like a potter prepares his clay). The wire is too soft to sculpt as is. The heat from your hand and the pressure of the cloth moving across the wire changes the molecular structure of the wire. Be careful, you can overdo it and the wire will become too hard to work. (Fig. 2) Usually when you pull these wires out together, they’ll stay together and become a consistent hardness that’s comfortable for you. (At first, you won’t know what that consistency is, but as you work on three or four or five pieces, you’ll start knowing what’s comfortable for you.)

Fig. 1

Fig. 2





3


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Step 4: Measure for crossbarlocation Measure down 6” from the top of your sculpting wire with the metal marking pen (all four wires together) to mark where the crossbar should go. This section of wire will become the top of the setting and the bail. Put the marked wires down and pick up the twisted 10 inch wire. (Fig. 3)

Step 5: Twisted crossbarA: Take the wire you twisted and bend it over the tip of your flat nose pliers to make a small opening and bend at the mid point of the wire. (Fig. 4)

B: Hold the twisted wire with your right hand and insert the sculpting wire into the twisted wire opening at the pen mark. The wire should fit snugly. The four pieces of wire are held parallel (all four in a row and not stacked two on two). Wires should be side by side. Pinch with the flat nose pliers so they don’t stick on the main wire.

C: Take your right hand and gently bend the twisted wire over the sculpting wires above the first bend. This is actually the back.

D: Turn it over to the front. You’ll notice that one bar is higher than the other... This is our twisted crossbar. (Fig. 5)

Fig. 3

Fig. 4

Fig. 5









PRESTON’S TIP:Make the effort to get the stone as

centered as possible, because most mistakes are going to be made early on. If you make a a mistake (stone too far left or right) in the early stages, you’ll struggle through all the way trying to correct it. If this centering is done properly, creating your

pendant is easier to do.

Step 6: Shaping the harnessA: You want to turn the cross into an “X”. Hold the crossbar between your right thumb and forefinger, while bringing the right crossbar wire down and bring the left one up. (Fig. 6)

B: Now you have an “X”. This is going to be your harness, the resting place for your stone. (Fig. 7)

Step 7: Attaching the stoneCenter your stone on the “X”. The more centered the stone is into the “X”, the better your placement will be. Hold the stone firmly on the wire. (Fig. 8)

Fig. 6

Fig. 7

Fig. 8







5



Step 8: Form the top of the harnessA: Hold the stone in place with your left hand. Using your right thumb at the back of the sculpting wires (work the four pieces together) push the wires smoothly across the top of the stone to secure the top of the harness. (Fig. 9)

B: Gently push the wires all the way around to the back. (Fig. 10)

Step 9: Lock the wiresFrom the front, straighten your stone so you can lock wires in place by pushing the twisted wire straight down along the side of stone. (Fig. 11)

FRONT BACK

Fig. 9

Fig. 10

Fig. 11


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Step 10: Form the bottom harnessTurn your stone upside down in your left hand. Now, repeat steps 7 & 8. You are just repeating what you did (on top) again on the bottom of the stone. (Fig. 12 and 13)

Step 11: Bring up the bail wiresHold the back of the stone and while you are doing that, bring the bail wires up (use your thumb to apply appropriate pressure while bringing the curl up). Now, look at the back. The little curve is what keeps the wire from coming out from the side (see arrows on photo). Straighten up the stone. Hold the back of it, and make the same kind of curve at the bottom (pull the wires down). (Fig. 14)

FRONT BACK

Back view of curves

Fig. 12

Fig. 13

Fig. 14

PRESTON’S TIP:When you sculpt, use the tips

of your fingers (any tips of any fingers) as long as it’s comfortable to you. I sculpt with the tips of

my thumb and the tips of my first finger. It’s a personal choice... nothing is written in stone!








7



Step 12: Make the bezelA: Bring the twisted wire up on the right side and down on the left side to form a bezel.

B: Turn the stone upside down. Hold your finger like a gun. Grab the twisted wire at the bottom of your stone and make a half fancy curl. These curls are done in two parts, and you just did the first part. (Fig. 15)

C: To form the second part, grab the twisted wire at its source or end and let the wire make the turn. If you grab the piece in the curl, you will see the grab/finger mark in the body of the wire. (Fig. 16)

D: Bring the wire up to and in front of the bail wires, where you will secure it into the bail.(Fig. 17)

Fig. 15

Fig. 16

Fig. 17

PRESTON’S TIP:Use your artistic eye: Put the

bail wire in place and see how it looks, it may be brought to the front or to the back... whichever

looks better to you on your particular piece.









Step 12 continuedA: Wrap the twisted wire around the bail wires one complete turn. Pinch the wrap tight with your flat nose pliers and squeeze. (Fig. 18)

B: Trim closely with your flush cutter in front. Flatten the cut wire down using your flat-nose or chain-nose pliers so there are no sharp edges. (Fig. 19)

Step 13: Finishing the bezelA: Curl in a circular motion the left-twisted wire down on the side of the stone. Hold your finger like a pistol with the point where you’re going to create your curl. You don’t want to bring your wire up too high or down too low because you want to make it look like this is all connected. If you leave a lot of space, it doesn’t look connected. So begin your little curl... (Fig. 20)

Fig. 18

Fig. 19

Fig. 20

PRESTON’S TIP:Wraps... be creative!

I put three here at the bottom. Feel free to experiment. The more wraps you put at the bottom, the

longer the setting becomes.







9



Step 13: continuedB: Then do the exact same thing on the other side. It’s easier if you hold it upside down so you can get your right finger in there. Remember your finger looks like a pistol grip because you’re using the tip of your finger to make that curl.

C: Holding the curl the wire in your left hand, take the end of the twisted wire and curl it to fit the side of the stone. (Fig. 21)

D: Now, secure it at the bottom by wrapping your twisted wire around the sculpting wire, just like you did at the top. Make at least three wraps and cut the twisted wire in the rear. Pinch the wraps as you make them. (Fig. 22 and 23)

FRONT

BACK

PRESTON’S TIP:You want to make the wires look like it’s all connected... creating

the illusion of using only one wire and placement of curls is critical

to preserve this illusion.

Fig. 21

Fig. 22

Fig. 23









Step 14: Shape your sculpting wire againNow, because you’ve been manipulating the sculpting wires, you want to straighten them out. Use your polishing cloth and bring all four wires together and stroke them a couple of times to smooth it out. (Fig. 24)

Step 15: First curl at bottom with sculpting wireA: This is easiest to do if you hold your stone upside down. Use your pistol grip finger to curl all the wires together. This is the same type of curl you’ve already made with the twisted wire - you are just using more wires.(Fig. 25)

B: Continue to bring the curl around towards the front. All these curls are going to come out differently depending on who’s doing it, much like a signature. (Fig. 26)

Fig. 24

Fig. 25

Fig. 26

PRESTON’S TIP:Your curls won’t look like mine and my curls won’t look like

yours. It’s much like hand-writing. Try to make them as symmetrical

as you can, though.







11



Step 16: First outside loopA: For this project, you’re going to bring the sculpting wires to the top of the pendant and wrap tightly around the bail wires. Hold the end of the wires and let the wire make a graceful turn. (Fig. 27)

B: Wrap the four wires around the bail wire one complete wrap. (fig. 28)

Step 17: Additional curlsA: Now you’re going to cover up the junction where the wires cross with a couple of curls. You will make a tight curl and bring it down. You’ve got the same curls going on, but it’s a very tight curl. Use your thumb to apply pressure to the wire to form the curl.

B: Then make another tight curl right over the first curl. The four pieces of wire should move together. (Remember you brushed or polished the wires together to help them stay in place.) The more the wires stay together, the better your pendant will look. Again, hold the ends of your wire to gently create the outside loop. (Fig. 29)

Fig. 27

Fig. 28

Fig. 29









Step 18: Cut wires evenlyYou want to weave these wires into the bottom post. To keep them even, you may need to go to the end of your sculpting wires and trim them evenly. (Fig. 30)

Step 19: Weave wiresA: Next, you want to wrap these working wires around the bottom wires. To mark your location, place your wires next to the lower part of the stone and gently use your pliers to bend them, marking the bend location. (Fig. 31)

B: Thread the wires through your opening and around the lower wires, being gentle so you have no additional crimps beside the one you marked. Weave them by wrapping the wires around the bottom post of the stone. Wrap the wires totally around the post one complete turn. (Fig. 32 Front & Back)

FRONT BACK

Fig. 30

Fig. 31

Fig. 32








13



Step 20: Twist four remaining wiresA: Twist all four of these wires individually. You may use either a pin vise or an automatic wire twister. (Fig. 33)

PRESTON’S TIP:To avoid half-twisting one wire

and fully twisting another, I recommend counting the turns

in each wire as you twist it. As you gain experience, you may

instinctively see when your twisted wires match.

B: Front view showing all four twisted wires. (Fig. 34)

Step 21: Last curl with newly twisted wiresA: Using your right thumb, take the four twisted wires and start your last curl. Your curl goes over or near the existing one, NOT under. This final curl is a bit harder because the wire is twisted. Flare your twisted wire pieces out with even spacing between and bring to the back. (Fig. 35)

Fig. 33

Fig. 34

Fig. 35









Step 22: Bend twisted wires to backHold the first of the twisted wires where you want it. Tightly bend it back. Then hold each of the remaining wires where you want them and bend them back individually until all four wires are bent back and curve decoratively around your cameo. (Fig. 37)

Step 21 continuedB: This final curl is a bit harder because the wire is twisted. Flare your twisted wire pieces out with even spacing between and bring to the back. (Fig. 36)

Fig. 36

PRESTON’S TIP:Remember, you’re sculpting a handmade piece of art. Your curls will never come out the

same. Let the wire do its thing; it’s always different.

Fig. 37

Step 23: Trim twisted wires and tuckA: Look at the back of your setting to determine where you should tuck these four wires. Trim your four wires if they are too long, but make sure there is enough wire for tucking first! (Fig. 38) Fig. 38







15



Step 23B: The easiest way to tuck your wires is to pick up any wire on the back with your chain-nose pliers and stick the twisted wires underneath this wire. Bring each wire under and around.

C: Hold the wire tight with the chain-nose pliers and wrap it around your chosen wire. Then take the tip of your chain-nose pliers and roll the cut end under to make a whole wrap -- nice and tight where no one can see or feel the cut end.

D: Repeat steps B & C on the other three twisted wires. Remember: you want to keep the illusion alive that this is one long piece of wire. (Fig. 39)

Fig. 39

Step 24: Tweak wires on backIf the decorative wire wraps around the stone seem to be a bit loose, you can adjust them by gently bending the wires on the back of the stone as shown. This will take up all the slack in the wires. (Fig. 40)

This completes the sculpting process!

Fig. 40

Step 25: Creating the bailTrim bail wires evenly. (Fig. 41)

Fig. 41









Step 26: Make hook & start the wrap on pendant bailA: Cut a wrap wire 4 inches long out of half round wire, 18 gauge. Start a little hook with the tip of your pliers. The opening should be the thickness of the wire. (If the hook is too big, it’s going to flop around; if it’s too tight, the wire won’t fit around the four wires coming out of the top of the pendant - Fig 42.) Place hook facing you on the bail wires.

B: Start the wrapping process. Use your thumb to wrap the wire around the bail wire. When you’re wrapping wire, you want to work close to the pendant. (If you work up high, the pendant will flop around.) Bring the wrap in close and press it down. Wrap the bail wire 5 times. (Fig. 43)

C: Cut the beginning and the ending wrap wire on the underside of your bail wire. Squeeze and press the cut ends down so they do not show or stick up. (Fig. 44)

Fig. 42 Fig. 43

Fig. 44

BACK OF BAIL

Step 27: Bending the bailA: Next, you will take the four bail wire ends and with the fat end of your round nose pliers, bend the bail wires down behind the stone. (Fig. 45)

Fig. 45

SIDE VIEW OF BAIL

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17



BAIL WIRES TUCKED

UNDER REAR WIRE

Step 27 continuedB: Use your chain-nose pliers and gently bend any rear wire up slightly. This will make it easier to tuck the wires under the other wire.

C: Stick the ends of the four bail wires through the little opening you just made. (It may be a tight squeeze - Fig 46.)

D: With the tip of your chain-nose pliers, pull the wires through. Now, one wire at a time, grab the tip of the wire with the tip of your pliers and roll the wire right around these other wires. (Any wire will do as long as the bail is secured.)

E: This is how the completed back looks. This is where you can make sure your bail is hanging straight and balanced in the middle so that your pendant will hang straight. (Fig. 47)

Fig. 46

Fig. 47

FRONT BACK


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We have made every effort to ensure the accuracy and completeness of these instructions. We cannot, however, be responsible for human error, typographical

mistakes or variations in individual work. © 2010 Preston Reuther All rights reserved. This publication may not be reproduced in part or in whole without written permission from the author.

A NOTE FROM PRESTON: Gold and silver wire is relatively expensive, so to keep your costs down, practice this piece in 21 or 22 gauge half hard square brass wire until you get the hang of it. REMEMBER: This setting is used for faceted gems and the size of the wire used is usually based on the size of the gem. So for larger gemstones 20 gauge square half hard wire should be used.

Supplies: • One 18x13mm oval faceted smoky quartz gemstone • 10 wires - 21 gauge square half hard gold-filled wire – each 4 inches long • 2 wrap wires – 21 gauge square half hard gold-filled wire – each 4 inches long

Tools: • Pin Vise or Automatic Wire Twister • Round Nose Pliers • Flat Nose Pliers • Chain Nose Pliers • Flush Cutters • 6” Steel Ruler • Metal Marking Pen (Sharpie™) • Ring Mandrel * Plastic Ring Sizer * Small Rawhide Hammer • Safety Glasses *Tumbler (optional)

Pharaoh’s Ring SettiPharaoh’s Ring SettiPharaoh’s Ring SettiPharaoh’s Ring Setting forng forng forng for Faceted Gemstones Faceted Gemstones Faceted Gemstones Faceted Gemstones ---- #200#200#200#200

18 STEPS 18 STEPS 18 STEPS 18 STEPS –––– 20 PHOTOS 20 PHOTOS 20 PHOTOS 20 PHOTOS ---- 2 2 2 2 TIPS TIPS TIPS TIPS By Preston ReutherBy Preston ReutherBy Preston ReutherBy Preston Reuther

(Skill Level: Advanced)

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Pharaoh's Ring Setting for Faceted Gemstones - #200

www.wirejewelrybootcamp.com © 2010 Preston Reuther All rights reserved. 2

Fig. 1

Fig. 2

Fig. 3

Step 1 Cut 21 gauge square half hard wire into 10 pieces 4 inches in length. Wrap the bundle of 10 wires with 2 wrap wires 1-1/4 inch apart. Your measurement should start from the center with your cut ends on the inside of the horseshoe and the uncut ends on the outside.

Step 2 With your thumb firmly in the middle of the bundle form the wires into a horseshoe with the wraps directly across from each other. You can do this by wrapping the bundle around a steel ring mandrel on a size 4.

PRESTON’S TIP #1 21 Gauge wire is fine for a

small or medium size faceted

gemstone (18x13mm or below)

but for larger stones and for

real strength use 20 gauge

half hard wire. You will find

that by using 20 gauge half

hard wire it will be much

easier to hold the stones in

place.

Step 3 Your completed horseshoe should look like Fig. 3 with wraps across from each other. If it is crooked now is the time to fix it.



Fig. 4

Fig. 5

Step 4 Bring up the outside wires straight up as seen in Fig. 4 with the nail on your thumb or a dull kitchen knife bale. Your project should look like FIG 4 at this time. If the setting or wires are crooked adjust it again so they are all even.

Step 5 With your black metal marking pen (extra thick point) draw a thick line right under your wrap wires. See Fig 5. This will help you to estimate how much you need to adjust your wires when you bring up your second and third wires. It’s not a true science as the bottom culets of the gemstones are all different but it’s a good place to start. See the arrows in Fig, 5

Step 6 Pull up the second wire and create a small space (about 4mm) on the top of your ring where the edges of your faceted gem will be placed. One wire will be on top of the edge of the stone and the other will be on the bottom. Notice the arrow. By marking this area you can judge how much you pull that wire up. Also make sure to pull the second wire in your bundle, not the first, as the first is not moveable, See Fig. 6.



Fig. 6

Fig. 7

Tip #2

Step 7 After the second wire is pulled and pushed up to the top as the first, you will see you have created a small space for the end of your faceted stone to fit into. This is how your project should look after the second wire is brought up. If that space is too small or too large for the edge of your gemstone, now is the time to fix it by pulling out more wire or pushing some in. This is an advanced project. You may have to do this a few times before getting the hang of it.

Step 7 After the second wire is pulled and pushed up to the top as the first, you will see you have created a small space for both edges of your faceted stone to fit into. This is how your project should look after the second wire is brought up. If that space is too small or too large for the edges of your gemstone, now is the time to fix it by pulling out more wire or pushing some in. This is an advanced project. You may have to do this a few times before getting the hang of it.

Step 8 Your gemstone can be inserted now and should fit evenly in the setting. The culet at the bottom of the stone will be sticking out beyond the second wire.

PRESTON’S TIP #2 If you bring up the second wire

and your stone still won’t fit

properly, you can open the area

up by flattening the second wire

with your flat nose pliers. See

tip picture #2



Fig. 8

Fig. 9

Fig. 10

Fig. 11

Step 9 Your gemstone needs to be secured now. Pull down the two outside wires of your bundle at a 90 degree angle, See Fig. 9 Do this on both sides and turn your two wires under, trim, and lock them in. NOTE: Your ring can still be sized at this time but the next wire you lock in will keep it from being sized. So you must size your ring before you roll down the next wire.

Step 10 After you roll your wires under and lock them in, it should look like Fig. 10. Roll these two wires under with your chain nose and flatten tightly with your flat nose. The steps ahead will show you some of these techniques.

Step 11 Pull your third wire out and up toward the gemstone just like you did in Fig. 6. This will be your third wire – the wire that rests on your customer’s finger and protects it from the pointy culet of your stone. Depending on the length of your culet, you will have to pull this wire out about ½ inch or more. Then roll it up to the stone with your dull knife or fingernail as seen in Fig. 11.



Fig. 12

Fig. 13

Fig. 14

Step 13 Take a look at your ring after you have brought up the third wire and sized your ring (Fig. 13), you have two wires on each side of your stone locking in the wire underneath your stone. Now bring down your other top three wires on all four sides just as you did the first two but they will be locked in underneath the third wire. Cut, trim and lock the wires under the stone. See the next tip and step to see how it is done.

Step 12 Now is the time to size your ring. Use your plastic ring stick with the groove side underneath your stone so you do not damage the culet. If you want a size 7 ring with the shank wrapped, place it on 7-1/4 of your ring stick. NOTE: This is a tricky process because if you tighten your wires and they are too loose, your stone will not be secure. If you pull them too hard, it will distort your sizing process. So do this carefully and practice this procedure.

Step 14 When locking in your wires underneath, manipulate one wire at a time. It will be much easier. Pull them out with your chain nose pliers and push them in under your third and bottom wire and trim excess. Make sure your culet does not stick out beyond your third wire.



Fig. 15

Fig. 16

Fig. 17

Step 15 Rolling your top wires underneath the bottom two wires can be a bit tricky. To turn your wire under, push them in with chain nose pliers. Then flatten them and press tightly with small flat nose pliers. See Fig. 15

Step 16 -- Finished Ring – Front View • From this view you should not see the culet sticking beyond the bottom wire.

• There should not be wide gaps between the wires.

• The top of your stone should be level.

Step 17 -- Finished Ring – Side View • From the side all your wires should be even on both sides with no large spaces between them.

• The two top wires holding your stone in should be right at the edge of your stone as not to cover the stone nor to let it fall out,

• The top of your stone (the table) should be level.

• Your bottom shank wires should be smooth and even.

• Your three wrap wires in the center of the Fig. 17 should be straight across with no bulges.



Fig. 18

Step 18 -- Finished Ring – Top View • From this view the top and bottom wires should be curved along with the shape of the stone. There should be very little or no stone edge sticking out.

• Very Important! -- There should not be a lot of space between your setting and your stone on the right and the left hand sides. If there is, your stone will move and not be totally secure.

• Optional -- A faceted stone ring needs to be extremely strong to hold the stone securely for a long lasting ring. An additional step would be to polish and harden your ring in a rotary tumbler for two hours. This will ensure that your wire gets much harder and thus making it stronger.

Documents

Preston’s Wire Sculpted Pendant Setting - Variation 101 Free Premium Pattern… · Wire Jewelry Tutorial #101 • Design by Preston Reuther We have made every effort to ensure the