Saaj, Vastra and Shree Mastak Shrungaar

Introduction

Saaj, Vastra and Shrungaar play a very important part in daily seva. Shrungaar and Vastra is one of the three pillars of Pushti Marg. Others being Raag and Bhog. This presentation will cover the significance of Saaj, Vastra and Shrungaar is daily and Utsav

seva. Various Vastra and Shrungaar are offered to Thakurji, with different Bhaav and Bhavna. The entire Seva routine defined by Shri Mahaprabhuji and Shree Gusaiji is based on Shrimad

Bhagwat Mahapuran, which is why Shrungar are also based on different leelas done by Shree Krishna in Saraswat Kalp.

Most of the interpretations and the Bhavs which we read in Pustaks have been explained by Shree Gokulnathji and Shri Hariray Mahaprabhu.

Many Vastra and Shrungaar have multiple Bhaav, and methods would depend on the different ‘Guru Ghar.’

Why Know This?

• To give ‘Sukh’ to Thakurji and make sure that Thakurji is not given ‘Shram.’ • Although we are not able to include this in daily or home seva, when we go to do Darshan at

a Tirth Sthal or Haveli, we could identify with what Bhav, the Saaj, Vastra and Shrungaar has been offered.

• Helps us identify the Seva Kram designed by previous Vallabh Kul Balaks.

Saaj Introduction

• Saaj is the set of Pichwai, Chandarva, Sinhasan, Seedi and Khandpaat Vastra • The Saaj is changed according to the seasons and the Utsav. • The Saaj has been thought of, accordingly to the comfort and royalty of Shri Thakurji.

Bhaav of the Various Saaj

• Chandarvo – Shri Chandravaliji’s ‘Chayaroop.’ • Pichwai – Shri Swaminiji’s ‘Chayaroop.’ • Sinhasan – Shri Yashodaji’s Lap.

o Gadi – Shri Swaminiji o Middle Pillow (Pithika) – Shri Chandravaliji o Side Pillows – Shri Lalitaji & Shri Vishakhaji o Malmal White Spread – Shri Swaminiji’s ‘Prembhaav.’

Saaj During Utsavs

• On Utsavs like Janmashtami, Annakut, Mahaprabhujino Utsav, Gusaijino Utsav etc, Saaj is prepared with special materials, such as Zari, Zardozi, Gold and Silver threads.

• On some Utsavs, printed Pichwais depicting Vraj Leela are offered to Thakurji. Examples of such Utsav are Sharad Poonam (Raas Pichwai), Gopashtmi (Pichwai with Cows) and Daan Leela (Pichwai depicting Daan Leela).

Vastra

Introduction

• During Shri Mahaprabhuji’s time, only Dhoti and Uparna were offered to Shri Thakurji. • Later, Shri Gusaiji’s expanded the wardrobe according to the medieval India. • These were mostly inspired by the Mughals as we know from history that Shri Gusaiji was

Birajmaan during the years of the Mughals. Vastra for Laalan

• In Pushti Marg, round frock Vastra are not offered to Laalan, but Odhani and Vaaga if offered.

• Vaaga is not offered from Akhshay Trutiya, to the day before Nav Vilas Prarambh. Though it is offered on big Utsavs. If offered on the Utsav, it is not offered on the day after.

Vastra for Thadu Swaroop

• Thada Swaroop is any swaroop which is standing. • These swaroops could be Shri Govardhannathji, Shri Dwarkadhishji, Shri Mathuranathji, Shri

Vitthalnathji, Shri Madanmohanji, Shri Gokulchandramaji, Shri Gokulnathji, Shri Kalyanraiji, Shri Natwarlalji etc.

• Various Vastra are offered according to the time of the year.

Thadu Vastra

• Thadu Vastra is the Vastra which is offered on the Pithika of Thakurji. • Swaroops which have Pithika (Shri Govardhannathji, Shri

Dwarkadhishji, Shri Mathuranathji, Shri Kalyanraiji.) • It is not offered between Ashadh Sud 7 to Ashadh Sud 3. It is not

offered on Ashadh 7, 10 and 12.

Chaakdaar

• This is Chakdaar. • It means the Vastra with Four corners. • It is offered with Suthan, Bandi and sometimes Patuka. • Offered frequently throughout the year, but not in

Ushnakaal or Varshakaal. • Offered on most of the big Utsavs.

Khullebandh

• This is Khullebandh. • It is like an overcoat. • It could be offered with Kachni, Suthan, Dhoti or

Mallkaach. • Mostly made of Chaapa material. • Offered during the begining of Chaitra and during

Nav Vilas.

Gherdaar

• This is Gherdaar. • It means the Vastra with one single ‘Gher’. • It is offered with Suthan, Bandi and sometimes Patuka. • Offered mostly between Dashera and Vasantkaal. • Offered on most of the ‘Ghata Darshan’.

Dhoti Uparna

• This is Dhoti Uparna. • It is one of the traditional clothes of historic India. • It is offered mostly in Ushnakaal and Varshakaal.

Kaachni

• Kaachni is the Vastra which has a ‘Gher.’ This shows that when more than one feathers formed together forms a ‘Gher.’ Similarly more than one Bhaktas together get together to fulfil the manorath of Shri Thakurji. Thakurji wears the Kaachni with the representation of the several Vraj Bhakto’s Bhaav.

• It is offered with Suthan and Pitambar. • Bandi is offered when it is cold. • Mukut is offered with Kaachni.

Pichoda

• This is Pichoda. • There are various types of Pichoda. • It is offered mostly in Ushnakaal and

Varshakaal.

Paradni

• This is Paradni. • It is in the shape of shorts. • It is offered alone. • Offered frequently in Ushnakaal.

Mallkaach

• This is Mallkaach. • Mallkaach is also known as the wrestler’s clothes. • It is offered mostly in Ushnakaal and Varshakaal.

Aadbandh

• This is Aadbandh. • Mostly offered in Magala and Shayan Darshan. • It is offered mostly in Ushnakaal.

Suthan Patuka

• This is Suthan Patuka. • Suthan could also be reffered as a

trouser or Pyjama. • It is either offered with Chakdaar or

Gherdaar in Sheetkaal. • In Ushnakaal and Varshakaal, it could be

offered alone as well.

Bandi

• This is Bandi. • Bandi is the top. • It could also be reffered as Choli or Kothavastra. • It is offered when Kachni, Gherdaar or Chaakdaar is offered. • It is never offered alone.

Vastra According to the Seasons

• Akshay Trutiya to Kasumba Chatth – Light Colours, Without Borders, Kesar/Chandan printed, Malmal, Net

• From Kasumba Chath – Dark Coloured Malmal (Red, Blue, Purple etc,) with borders • From Hindola – Colourful, Chundadi, Malmal, Leheriya, with borders • Navaratri to Sharad Poornima – Chaapa • Aaso Vad Saatam to Prabodhini – Jari • After Prabodhini – Jari, Saatin, Kinkhaab • Posh Amaas – Day before Vasant Panchami – Jari • Vasant Panchami to Dolotsav – Vasanti (cloth with gulaal dots,) White Sootrau, Jaamdaani • Dwitiya Paat + 5 days – Jari • Fagun Vad 7 – Chaitra Sud 2 – Chaapa

• Treej to Saatam – Chundadi • Afterwhich – Leheriya and Malmal

Various Materials and Designs in Thakurji’s Vastra

Shrungaar

Shrungaar Introduced by Shri Vallabh and Shri Vitthal

Shree Mahaprabhuji offered only 2 types of Shrungars to Shree Prabhu: Mukut and Paag.

Shree Gusaiji expanded the Shrungars to many i.e. Kulhe, Goti Kulhe, Paga, Tipara, Turra, Fenta, Dumala etc.

Various Shrungaar offered on Mukharvind

Alkankaar

• Alankaar/Nain offered to Thakurji are always facing downwards in Pushti Marg, to show Shri Thakurji is looking towards his feet.

• This is because during Govardhan Leela, Thakurji promised Vrajvasis to protect them in all good and bad, if they come under Thakurji’s refuge. Hence Vrajvasis and Vaishnavs are at the Shri Charanarvind of Shri Thakurji.

• Thakurji has promised to always protect those who reside in his feet, which is why the downwards eyes represent Thakurji always looking at Vaishnavs.

Karnafool

• Karnafool are offered on the lower part of Shri Thakurji’s ear. Sometimes, four Karnafool’s could be offered; two on the upper part of Thakurji’s ear, and two on the lower.

• Mostly offered on a daily basis, when Fenta, Paag or Topi are offered. • Rarely offered on Utsavs. Offered on Vasant Panchami and Dolotsav.

Kundal • There are three types of Kundals which are offered. Makarakrut – shape of a crocodile (left),

Mayurakrut - shape of a peacock (centre) and Matsyakrut – shape of a fish (right.) • Kundals are mostly offered on big Utsavs. These are mostly offered when Mukut, Tipara,

Sehra, Kirit Mukut, Kulhe and Dumala are offered. • When offered the tail faces upwards. • The first is Mayurakruta Kundal. This is with the Bhaav that Shri Thakorji adorns this to fulfil

the Manorath of ‘Parkiya’ Bhakto. Parkiya Bhakto means ‘belonging to other’ or ‘anothers.’ • The second is Makarakruta Kundal. This is to fulfil the Manorath of ‘Swakiya’ Bhakto. The

other Bhaav is that Shri Thakorji is Aloukik Kamdev (Hindu God of Love,) and wears them to notify every one of that.

• The third is Matsyakruta Kundal. This is with the Bhaav that Shri Swaminiji wins over him, and keeps the Kundal in her Charan Chinh, which is why Shri Swaminiji has a Matsya as her Charan Chinh, and is the reason why Thakorji wears the Matysakruta Kundal. The Bhaav is that Shri Swaminji won Shri Thakorji with her love filled eyes, or even known as ‘Kataksh.’ She then took the Kundal and offered is to her Charan.

Tilak and Alkavali

• Tilak is the Bhaav of Shri Swaminiji’s Charankrut. There are different types of Tilaks which are explained by Shri Harirayji.

• Kesri Tilak – Shri Swaminiji’s Bhaav • Kanku Tilak – ‘Virahtaap Nivaaranarth’ – To

reduce the agony of the separation. • Kasturi Tilak – Shri Yamunaji’s Bhaav • Ratnajatid Tilak – Shrutiroopa Mukhya

Chandravaliji’s Bhaav • Gorachan Tilak – 16000 Agnikumarika’s Bhaav

Nakvesar

• Nakvesar is the nose ornament. • The Bhaav behind this is that when Shri Thakorji does Shrungaar in the

Nikunj, Shri Thakorji adorns some of Shri Swaminiji’s Shrungaar. This is when with Shri Swaminiji’s request Shri Thakorji wears the favourite Moti Nakvesar of Shri Swaminji.

• The other Bhaav of the Nakvesar is that a Parrot – ‘Shuk’ is seated on Shri Thakurji’s nose.

Chibuk • Chibuk is a white diamond, which is offered between the lower lip and chin, which is known

as ‘Hadpachi.’ • To have the moons characteristics within him, Shri Thakorji adores the Chibuuk. • It has the Bhaav of Shri Chandravaliji, and as the colour of Shri Chandravali is white, the

colour of the Chibuk is white.

Shree Mastak Shrungaar General

In Pushti Marg the Shrungaar of Shree Mastak is always offered at an angle of about 300 or 400 on the right side of Shree Thakurji.

On the left side, Sheeshfool and/or Katra is offered.

On the right side, two larh (lines) of moti are offered under the Shrungar, whilst on the left side, only one larh of moti is offered.

Various Shree Mastak Shrungaar

Paag • Paag is offered with the Bhaav of Shri Yamunaji. • There are various types of Paag –

– Saadi – Only Plain Material – Chajjedaar – Plain Material with Golden or Silver Lace – Gol – Round Shaped – Khidki – Made of Two different coloured Plain Materials (Offered mostly during days

of Khel) – Cheera – Made of only Zari Lace. (Offered mostly between Dashera and Devpodhi

Ekadashi)

Kulhe • Kulhe is offered with Shri Chandravaliji’s Bhaav. • As Shri Gusaiji is Chandravaliji’s Swaroop, Kulhe also has the Bhaav of Shri Gusaiji. • Shri Gusaiji taught us the Shrungaar for Utsavs and Kulhe is offered on Utsavs. (Jayanti’s,

Patotsav, etc) • Kulhe also has the Bhaav of Baal Leela, which is why it is offered on Jayanti’s. • Because of Baal Bhaav, Kulhe is not offered during the days of Khel (Vasant Panchami – Dol

Utsav,) as Khel is done with the Bhaav of Kishor Leela. • During Ushnakaal or Varshakaal, when Kulhe is offered Pichoda is offered. • On Vaman Jayanti and Gopinathji’s Utsav, Dhoti – Uparna are offered. • During Sheetkaal, when Kulhe is offered, Suthan–Bandi–Chakdaar is offered.

Mukut

• The Bhaav behind the Mukut is the Raas Leela. • It has the Bhaav of the four Yuthadipati (the four Swaminiji’s) and

Vrajangana’s who accompanied Shri Thakurji in Raas. • It is also the ‘Sarvopari Shrungar’ which is why it also has the Bhaav of

Shri Swaminiji. • As Shri Mahaprabhuji is the Swaroop of Shri Swaminiji, he himself

created a Mukut of peapock feathers and offered it to Shri Thakurji. • It is mostly offered with Suthan-Kaachni-Bandi-Peetamber. • It is offered on top of a Paag.

Mukut and Kaachni – Yamunaji’s Shrungaar

Mukut and Kachni are also known as Shri Yamunaji’s Shrungar. It is said that when Yamunaji resides in her own Kunj, she wears Chaniya and Choli, but when

in Shri Thakurji’s Kunj she wears Mukut and Kachni. There are two prasangs related to this. Prasang 1: When Shri Thakurji and Shri Swaminiji were doing Maan Leela, Shri Thakurji easily

persuaded Shri Swaminiji, but Shri Swaminiji was not able to persuade Shri Thakurji. All Sakhi’s tried their best to persuade Shri Thakurji, but their attempts went futile. This is when Shri Swaminiji asked Shri Yamunaji to wear Shri Thakurji’s Mukut and Kachni, so she would look like Shri Thakurji as both are Shyaam Swaroop. When Shru Yamunaji went up to Shri Thakurji, Shri Thakurji got pleased at looking at Shri Yamunaji and asked her to always wear Mukut Kachni when coming to his Kunj.

Prasang 2: When Shri Thakurji was leaving Mathura and leaving for Dwarka, he realised the ‘Virah’ the Gopis would have to bear. This is when Shri Thakurji gave his Mukut and Kachni to Shri Yamunaji and told her to wear it. This is so that when the Gopi’s and Shri Swaminiji goes to Shri Yamunaji for bathing or filling water, when they do the darshan of Shri Yamunaji, they see the Swaroop of Shri Thakurji and their ‘Virah’ decreases.

When Vaishnav’s asked Shree Gokulnathji on how does Shree Yamunaji’s Adhyatmik swaroop looks like, he sketched an image, which is the image we see today in paintings.

Tiparo • The Bhaav behind the Tiparo is the Gau Charan Leela. • It is also offered with the Bhaav of doing the Mardan of the Maan of Taamsi Bhakt. • It is the Shrungaar with three pointed corners. • During Ushnakaal or Varshakaal, when tiparo is offered, Mallkaach or Pichoda is offered. • During Sheetkaal, when Tiparo is offered, Suthan – Bandi – Chakdaar is offered. • Offered on top of Paag.

Sehero

• The Bhaav behind the Sehero is the Vivah Khel Leela. • It is with the Bhav of Shri Kumarika as they performed Katyayani Vrat to

attain Shri Thakurji, and offered Sehero to Shri Thakurji. • It is offered during Vivah Khel Manoraths. • In Ushnakaal or Varshakaal, when Sehero is offered, Pichoda or Dhoti

Uparna is offered. • In Sheetkaal, when Sehero is offered, Suthan–Bandi–Chakdaar/Gherdaar

is offered. • Offered mostly on top of Dumalo. • When Sehero is offered, Choti comes on the right side, instead of the left

side. Kirit

• It is one sort of a crown. • It comes particularly on Dwitiya Patotsav. • During Ushnakaal or Varshakaal, when Kirit is offered, Pichoda or Dhoti

Uparna is offered. • During Sheetkaal, when Kirit is offered, Suthan–Bandi–Chakdaar is

offered.

Various Topi’s and Paags • Topi – The Bhaav of Shree Yashodaji • Gwaal Paag – The Bhaavna of Gwaal Baal • Dumalo – The Bhaav of Raajsi Bhakt • Fenta – The Bhaav of Saatvik Bhakt

Chandrika’s • Chandrika’s are Shrungaar added to Paag’s or Kulhe: • Saadi Chandrika – Only one peacock motif. Offered on Paag • Tran, Panch, Saat, Navni Jod – Selection of mofits of these numbers. Offered with Kulhe on

Utsavs. • Chamakni Chandrika – Chandrika made of a different material (gold, silver, sequins, beads,

etc.) • Gol/Soorajmukhi Chandrika – Chandrika with a round shape.

Gokarna

• Represents the ears of a cow. Gou means cow and Karn means ears.

• Offered during Govardhan Pooja, Annakut, Akshay Navmi and when Chappan Bhog is offered to Thakorji.

• Offered with Kulhe.

Katra

• Katra is offered on the various Paags. • Left Katra is with the Bhaav of Shri Swaminiji. • Right Katra is with the Bhaav of Shri Chandravaliji. • Naagfeni Katra is Katra which is the shape of a

snakes hood. (Right) • Made of various materials. Ei. Morshikha, Moti,

Suvarva, Resham.

Choti

• Choti is offered on special occasions. • Generally of the Left side of Shri Thakurji, but when Sehera is

offered, the Choti is offered on the right side of Shri Thakurji. • It is said that in Saraswat Kalp, Shri Thakurji never made his Choti

on the days of Daan Leela, with the fear of Gopi’s pulling his Choti.

Ghero/Kaamni Jod

• Offered with Kulhe or Kirit Mukut. • Utsavs when Ghero is offered is when Chappan Bhog is offered

to Thakorji, Samvatsar and Yamunaji’s Utsav.

Ready Made Shree Mastak Shrungar

Now in the market, we get ready made Shree Mastak Shrungaar.

These are effortless and are just ready to be offered.

Though these may not always be appropriate. An example is the third image below, It shows Ghero/Kaamni Jod with Paag, but Ghero or Kaamni Jod is always offered with Kulhe or Kirit, according to Seva Bhaavna.

Shrungaar according to the Seasons

Sheetkaal (Winter) All kind of Shrungaar (Heera, Manek, Panna, Piroja, Neelam, Gold, Meenakaari, Moti, Milma, Jadau)

Vasant Gold and Meenakaari Ushnakaal (Summer) Sukhad, Chheep, Moti

On big Utsavs, all kind of Shrungaar are offered Mukut is not offered during very cold and very hot conditions