1 2 3 4

The anchor buoys were made from Sculpey. Youcould however, carve them from wood but I want-ed to continue my experimentation with thismaterial. A buoy from this time period wouldhave ranged from 2’ to 4’ long depending on thesize of the ship. I decided on the smallest sizesince the Sultana was a small schooner. TheSculpey was shaped into small beads 3/8” long.See the photos above for details. Six were madewith the intention of picking the best from the “lit-ter”. An eye bolt was shaped and inserted intoeach end of the buoy. The eye bolts were notinserted fully (1/32” remained between the buoyand eye).

Photo #2 shows how I prepared a harness foreach buoy. Two will be needed for each. Threelines were knotted along another length riggingline. It took a little time to space them properlyso there was an equal distance between them.The harness was wrapped around the buoy andfused with super glue as described earlier. Thethree knotted strands are seized at the eye boltas shown in photo #3. The space between thesethree lines should be tested before the harness isglued around the buoy permanently. The sameprocess was repeated on the other side of thebuoy to complete them. Only this time the threelines of the 2nd harness were run under theexisting harness before being seized to the eyebolt on the opposite side. (018 black rigginglines were used for each harness)

When the buoys were finished I weathered themwith some brown acrylic paint so they wouldn’tlook so new and clean. The photo below shows

how I rigged the buoy to the shrouds first. ThenI set up another length of tan (.008) rigging lineto the anchor as shown in the line drawing onthe previous page. The end was tied to theshroud at the same place where the line for thebuoy was fastened. To finish it up I lashed arope coil to the shroud in that same location. Imust mention that I also placed the anchor cableon the ring of the anchor before I placed it ontothe model. A generous length of .045 tan riggingline was used. The other end was run beneaththe head rails and through the hawse hole. I

Place arope coil

here

wrapped it three times around the windlassdrum. Then I pushed the end of the cable intothe corner hole of the hatch directly aft of thewindlass. I was careful not to pull any of theselines taught. I painstakingly worked them untilthey hung loosely and natural. This was not asimple thing to achieve to my satisfaction butwas well worth the time spent. Finally, eachanchor was lashed to a timberhead as shown inthe same photo.

Boom and Gaffs...

I had to replace all of the dowels provided withthe kit for the boom, gaffs and yards. Most werebadly warped and open grained. I could have

asked Model Shipways for replacements but Ibought some beech dowels at a local hobby shopinstead. The boom was assembled first and wasvery simple. The appropriate sized dowel waschosen by measuring the diameter against theplans. The dowel was tapered by hand as shownin the photo above. The jaws for the boom weretraced from the plans and shaped from a basswood sheet 1/32” thick. Small holes were drilledthrough the jaw ends so I could string the parralbeads. Drill these holes before you cut the jawsfrom the sheet. They will be much too fragileafterwards and the wood will split. These beadsallowed the boom to move with less friction onthe main mast. They are not supplied with the kit

Eye bolt

Iron bandsParral beads CleatsSheaves

Topping lift (.018)

Tackle for topping lift(.008)

3mm singleblock

Tackle for topping lift

belayed herewith rope

coil.

Foot ropes(.008)

Boom Sheet(.008 rigging) 4mmdouble blocks

and were purchased separately. They are soldseveral 100 to each package.

The boom will be left natural and not painted.Eye bolts and cleats were attached as shown onthe plans. I also added some black pinstripetape to simulate iron bands around the jaws.This detail is not shown on the plans. Twosheaves were also simulated at the end of theboom as shown in the 2nd photo above. Itshows the boom completed and ready to berigged on the model. The sheaves are createdby drilling two small holes about 1/32” apart.The space between them was recessed with thetip of a pin vise.

I secured the boom to the main mast so it sat onthe boom rest. The mast hoops should sit ontop of the boom jaws. Then I rigged the toppinglift first. A 3mm single block was seized to theend of a generous length of .018 black riggingline. The other end was seized to the eye bolton the aft side of the cap. See the photo on theprevious page for details. I carefully adjustedthe length of the topping lift so the single blockwas approximately 1 ½” from the end of theboom. You will have to hold the boom tip abovethe transom in order to check that the distancelooks correct. Check the plans to obtain theexact angle and distances. The tackle for thetopping lift was rigged using .008 tan riggingline. After running the loose end through the aft-most sheave of the boom it was belayed to thecleat on the Starboard side of the boom. It wasfinished off with a rope coil.

The boom sheet was rigged as shown in figure34 of the kit-supplied instructions. It is an accu-rate diagram however it shows the traveller ondeck which is incorrect. A 4mm double blockwas seized around the boom for this tackle.See the detailed photo provided on the previouspage. The running end was belayed to the pinon the double block (seized to the traveler). Asmall rope coil was hung on this pin afterwards.I used .008 tan rigging line for the boom sheet.Knotted footropes (.008) were added to theboom to complete the boom rigging. The knotswere placed the same distance apart as thosefor bowsprit foot ropes.

The main and fore gaffs are constructed using thesame methods described for the boom. In thiscase they were both painted black before attach-ing the blocks and eye bolts. Please note that themain gaff should have an eye bolt glued into theunderside of the jaws. This detail is not shown onthe plans. It will be used for the throat downhaul.The fore gaff will not have this feature. See thephoto above for details. After they were complet-ed to the stage shown in the photo I placed themonto the model. They were secured around themast with black parral beads strung through theirjaws. I rigged the main gaff first.

The rigging for the main gaff was completed inthe order shown below. See the accompany-ing photos for details. Also examine figure 33in the kit-supplied instruction manual.

-Peak Halliard- It will be set up with a tackle onthe starboard side and belayed to a shroud cleat.I seized a 2.5 mm (S) block onto the end of a gen-erous length of .008 tan rigging line. The otherend was run through the double block on the masthead. I pulled it through the starboard sheaveuntil the single block was positioned at a pleasingheight off of the deck. Then I glued the peak hal-liard in the double block to maintain that position.It will make it easier to set up the tackle whichwas completed next. The other end of the tacklewill be a 2.5 mm (S) block that has a hook drilledinto it. This block will be hooked into an eye bolton deck. The position for the eye bolt was takenfrom the plans. The hook and eye bolt wasshaped out of 28 gauge black wire. I seizedanother length of .008 rigging line to this block touse for the tackle. This line was run through the

Main and fore gaff construction

(.008)

2.5mm (s)

2.5mm (s)

cleats)

eye bolt on maingaff only

4mm (s)

single block on the end of the peak halliard andback down through the hooked block on deck.The running end was belayed to the shroudcleat and finished off with a rope coil. The otherend of the peak halliard was run through the sin-gle block rigged to the gaff. Then it was takenback up through the double block and seized tothe tip of the gaff as shown in the photo.

-Peak Downhaul (port) Flag Halliard (Starboard)I used .008 tan rigging line for both. They weretied to the boom cleats as shown and then runthrough the single blocks seized to the tip of thegaff. Their loose ends were then belayed tothose same cleats and finished off with somerope coils.

-Throat Halliard – Some tan rigging line (.008)was seized to the single block attached to thegaff jaws. This was a little tricky. After a fewattempts I was successful. The running endwas taken through the double block on trestletree. Then it was finally brought down to thedeck where it was set up in a tackle on the portside of the model. This tackle is identical to theone we created for the peak halliard. Only thistime we will need to seize the 2.5 mm (S) blockonto the running end of this halliard while it is onthe model. I was careful to make sure it waspositioned at the same height above the deck as

the block for the peak halliard. See the photo pro-vided.

-Throat Downhaul - The throat downhaul wasseized to the eye bolt on the underside of thegaff’s jaws. It was brought down to the boom cleatshown in the photos provided. Finish it off with arope coil. I used .008 tan rigging line for the throatdownhaul.

Main Gaff Rigging

Peak halliard (.008)

Flaghalliard (.008)

Throathalliard

(.008)

Throatdownhaul(.008)

PORT

A

D

D

B

B CC

A

E

E

STARBOARD

A= Throat downhaul B= Peak downhaul C= Flag halliard D= Tackle for throat halliard E= Tackle for peak halliard

The fore gaff was rigged in the same manner.It was secured to the mast with parral beads.Rigging for the fore gaff was completed in the fol-lowing order.

-Peak Halliard – Was completed as described forthe main gaff, only this time the tackle was set upon the port side of the hull. See the photo to theright for details.

-Peak Downhaul- The downhaul (.008) wasrigged by tying a generous length of line to themast cleat shown in the same photo. It was runthrough the 2.5 mm single block seized to the tipof the gaff. Then I brought it back down to thesame cleat and finished it off with a rope coil.

-Throat Halliard- Rigged as described for themain gaff, only this time the tackle is set up onthe starboard side of the model.

-Vangs- I will hold off on rigging the vangs untilafter the yards are completed. They will just getin the way and make rigging the yards more diffi-cult. I will describe it in detail afterwards whilefinally completing the back stays as well.

The Topsail Yards...

The topsail yards were cut to length and taperedby hand. The measurements were taken fromthe plans. If you examine the plans, you willnotice that the yard on the fore mast is longerand slightly thicker in diameter than the yard forthe main mast. I took this into considerationwhen I was constructing them. The tips of theyard arms were carefully shaped with a #11 bladein my hobby knife. I scored each end of the yardby rolling it under my blade. Be sure not to applymuch pressure because you don’t want to cut thedowel straight through. I only wanted to create ashallow cut all the way around the yard. Then Iwhittled small shavings of wood back to this line.

Two small cleats were shaped from a strip ofwood 1/16” x 1/16’ thick. See the photo on thenext page for details. After they were assembledI painted both yards black. To finish them off Iseized 2.5 mm single blocks to both ends of theyards for their braces.

Peak halliard

Throathalliard

Peak downhaul

Details of the fore gaff rigging

The halliard was rigged to the topsail yard usingthe “sheet bend” shown in figure 31 of the kit-supplied manual. I would like to note that the rig-ging plans for this kit are outstanding comparedto most available commercially. It is a testamentto the Model Shipways brand. The illustrationclearly shows how to rig the halliard to the centerof the topsail yard. After a generous length of(.008) tan rigging line was secured to the yard asshown, I rigged them to the model. I willdescribe in detail how I completed the rigging onthe topsail yards. Each line was rigged in theorder presented below.

- Halliard for the topsail yards - The loose end ofthe halliard was run through the sheave createdin the topmast. I adjusted the position of theyard and then glued the halliard into the sheaveso that position could be maintained. The topsailyards will be placed in their lowered positionabout ½” above the cap. Then it was runthrough a whip block on deck. This block is a

2.5 mm single block hooked into an eyebolt ondeck. A hook was shaped from 28 gauge wireand glued into a pre-drilled hole in the block.There is no tackle used for this halliard. Afterrunning the line through this block it should bebelayed to the aft-most shroud cleat. The hal-liard for the main topsail yard was set up on theport side with a whip block while the fore topsailyard was belayed to starboard. They were fin-ished off with a rope coil.

- Truss – Once again the drawing for the topsailyard truss is shown in figure 31 of the instruc-tions. I created an eye on the end of some .008tan rigging line. The truss was rigged as shownin that diagram and it would be difficult todescribe it better than it is displayed there. Thetruss will hold the yard securely against the topmast.

- Braces – The braces were also rigged using.008 tan rigging lines. I seized the end of these

Topsail YardRigging (.008 tan riggingline used for all)

2.5mm (S) blocks Cleats

Halliard for thetopsail yards arerun through awhip block -hooked to an eyebolt on deck andbelayed to ashroud cleat.

Braces

Lifts

Halliard

lines to the shrouds as shown in the photoabove. Then they were run through the singleblocks on the yard arms. From here they werebrought back to the shrouds where I had seizeda 2.5 mm single block. These blocks wereplaced just below the initial starting point for thebraces. After running the line through the blockthey were belayed to a shroud cleat as shown inthe photo above. Finish it off with a rope coil.The braces are rigged identical for both the foreand main topsail yards.

- Topsail yard lifts – Once again, tan rigging line(.008) was used to rig the lifts. I seized the endof the lifts to the yard as shown in the photoabove. Then they were brought up through thesingle blocks secured to the topmast. They werebrought back down to the cleats at the base ofthe mast and belayed there. Before doing so,adjust the lifts so the topsail yard is level andpositioned correctly. Finish them off with a ropecoil. The lifts were rigged identical for both themain and fore topsail yards.

Lower Yards…

The lower yards were cut to length and taperedas previously described for the topsail yards.The lower yard for the fore mast is also slightlylonger and thicker in diameter than the one forthe main mast. The photo below shows thelower yard completed for the main mast with allof the blocks attached. Both yards should be vir-tually identical when finished. After painting themblack I rigged the blocks. Please note that black.008 rigging line was used to secure the blocks tothe yard. The brace pendants are ½” long and Iused 2.5mm single blocks seized to their ends.A 3 mm double block was lashed to the center ofthe yard as shown in figure 32 of the kit-suppliedinstructions. It will be used for the halliard.

Two single blocks were seized together andplaced on the ends of the yard arms. One ofthese blocks (2.5mm) will be used for the topsailsheet while a smaller one is for the lifts. Thesingle blocks for the lifts were sanded even

Topsail yardlifts arebelayed tomast cleats

Topsail yardbraces arebelayed toshroud cleats

Lower Yard Construction

3mm (D) block2mm (S) block2.5mm (S) block

2.5mm (S) blockBrace pendants (.008)

smaller with a finished size of only 2mm. Thisdetail is shown in the same photo. All of theblocks used were modified as discussed earlier inthis builder’s guide. They were all meticulouslysanded to a more accurate round shape. Whiledoing so, I sanded those for the lower yard liftseven smaller. Two inboard single blocks werelashed to the yard and it was finally ready to beplaced on the model. These last two (2.5mm)single blocks will be used to take the topsailsheet down to the mast cleats where they will bebelayed. When both yards were completed Irigged them to the model in the order presentedbelow.

- Truss for the Lower Yards - The lower yard forthe main mast will be fitted with a truss. The yardon the fore mast will not. The plans have a

detail drawing for this truss. It shows the looseend of the truss being carried to the trestle treeswhere it should be belayed. The only problem isthat the plans don’t indicate where or how theloose end should be tied off. Rather than guess,I decided to use the same simple truss describedfor the topsail yards.

-JEERS (Halliards and Slings) – These yardswere lowered to the deck often. The jeers (acombination of sling and halliard) were used todo this on the Sultana. The halliard will be set upwith two double blocks secured to the mast witha sling. The sling is pictured above (left). Thesling is also shown in figure 32 of the kit-suppliedinstructions but is not labeled as such. To createthe sling, seize a generous length of (.018) blackrigging around a double block. Then, an eye wascreated on both ends of the sling as shown. I willtry and save you the grief of determining howlong each leg of the sling should be. Thosemeasurements are shown in the same photo.The completed sling was secured around thetrestle tree and lashed together through the twoeyes with some tan sewing thread. It shouldn’tbe pulled tight but instead left to hang naturallybelow the trestle trees.

1-1/8”

3mm (D) block

Sling for the lower yard halliards

3/8”

Whip block for the halliardA

B

C

D

D

A= Halliard for the lower yards B= Braces C= Top sail sheet D= Lifts