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8/18/2019 Pigmenti kdkkfjPerlescenti
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Perlescent Pigments for Cosmetic Application:
Special Effects!
Elena Nunno
Account Manager Cosmetic
Merck KGAA
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Perlescent Pigments for Cosmetic Application: Special Effects!
Perlescent Pigments: daily used….
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Perlescent Pigments for Cosmetic Application: Special Effects!
Perlescent Pigments: daily used….
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Cosmetic Colorants
Dyes (Colorants)Soluble in the application medium;
transparent
Color PigmentsInsoluble in the application medium;
opaque
D&CRed#21
D&CRed#27
D&COrange#5
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Color Pigments
Pearl pigments
Color PigmentsInsoluble in the application medium;
opaque
Al/Ba/Ca LakesFD&C Yellow 5 Al Lake (CI 19140:1)D&C Red 27 Al Lake (CI 45410:2)
D&C Orange 5 Al Lake (CI 45370:2)
D&C Red 6 Ba Lake (CI 15858:2)
D&C Red 7 Ca Lake (CI 15850:1)
Colorants
D&C Red 36 (CI 12085)
D&C Orange #17 (CI 12075)
D&C RED#30 (CI73360)
Inorganics Pigments
Colored WhiteIron Oxides Titanium DioxideChromium Dioxide Zinc Oxide
UltramarinesManganese VioletFerric Ferrocyanide
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optical effects
Perlescent Pigments pearl effect results from:
reflection, refraction,
interference, transmission
Metallic Colors: silver E174gold E175
metallic gloss (mirror effect)caused by total reflection
of light in a certain angle
Absorption Colors:
titanium dioxide E171
iron oxide E172
carbon black E153
insoluble color lakes
light absorption and
undirected reflection
Merck KGaA PM PC Candurin®
Color Pigments: Interactions with Light
Perlescent Pigments for Cosmetic Application: Special Effects!
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Perlescent Pigments: Composition andCharacteristics
Composition
Particle size
Thickness
- transparent and inert color carrier
- metal oxides like titanium dioxide and/or ironoxides
- e.g. plus organic/inorganic colorants
- 5 - 200 µm diameter
- approx. 0.1 - 0.5 µm (crude silicate)
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Perlescent Pigments for Cosmetic Application: Special Effects!
Layer-substrate pigments = even platelets
Substrate: Mica (SiO2-Flakes, Ca-Al-Borosilicate-Flakes, Al2O3-Flakes,
Synthetic Mica)
Inorganic coating: Titanium Dioxide
Iron Oxides
Chromium Oxide
Organic coating: Carmine
Ferric Ferrocyanide
Metal oxide
substrate
Characteristics of Pearl Pigments
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Perlescent Pigments for Cosmetic Application: Special Effects!
Pearlescent Luster in Nature (I)
Reflection path through CaCO3 and proteins
layers of a natural pearl
CaCO3
Proteins
Incident Light
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Perlescent Pigments for Cosmetic Application: Special Effects!
To obtain the pearl effect:
- Semi transparent material
- Smooth and plane surface
- Refractive index different from the medium
- Light!
Pearlescent Luster in Nature (II)
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Perlescent Pigments for Cosmetic Application: Special Effects!
soap bubble
air: n = 1
air: n = 1
water „layer“, stabilized by tensides
n = 1.3
Pearlescent Luster in Nature (III)
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Perlescent Pigments for Cosmetic Application: Special Effects!
Pearlescent Luster
Multiple reflection
Pearl like effect
Incident light
Transmitted light
Metal oxide layer Substrate
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Perlescent Pigments for Cosmetic Application: Special Effects!
SEM Picture of Mica Based Pigments
potassium aluminium silicate/
mica (E555)
titanium dioxide (E171)
and/or iron oxide (E172)
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Perlescent Pigments for Cosmetic Application: Special Effects!
Substrates
Mica Silica Alumina Glass
Classic/wide use
Hiding power Sparkle
Performance
Color
TravelTransparency
Gloss
Natural Synthetic
Transparency
Synthetic
Mica
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Perlescent Pigments for Cosmetic Application: Special Effects!
Muscovite Mica
Pearl Luster Pigments Manufacturing
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natural silicate,
mica (E555)
classification
TiO2 /Fe2O3
precipitation washing/filtration
drying
milling
high temperatures
calcination
→ particle size:
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Perlescent Pigments for Cosmetic Application: Special Effects!
Effect versus Particle Size
M F N S L
Particle Size Effect Example
M 1-15 µm satin gloss
F 5-20 µm silky glossTimiron Supersheen MP-1001
N 10-50 µm brilliant shine Timiron Starluster MP-115
S 10-130 µm sparkle effectL 40-200 µm glittering Timiron Diamond Cluster MP-149
Selecting the right particle size
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Selecting the right particle size
small (25 µm)
medium (60 µm)
large (150 µm)
Color coverageParticle size
satiny very good
brilliant good
glittering low
Pearl effect
Merck KGaA PM PC Candurin®Perlescent Pigments for Cosmetic Application: Special Effects!
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Perlescent Pigments for Cosmetic Application: Special Effects!
Effect versus Particle Size
Small particles (
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Perlescent Pigments for Cosmetic Application: Special Effects!
40-60 nm 60-80 nm 80-100 nm 100-140 nm 120-160 nm
Silver
mica
TiO2
Gold
mica
TiO2
Green
mica
TiO2
Blue
mica
TiO2
Red
mica
TiO2
Name Particle sizeGloss effect and coverage
in formulation and applicationInterference color
Gamme Timiron Silk 5 - 25 µmsilky luster
medium hiding power Gold, Red, Blue, Green
Timiron Splendid Blue;Gold
10 - 60 µmpearl luster
medium hiding power Gold, Copper, Red, Violet, Blue, Green
Gamme Timiron Starlight 10 - 125 µmshimmering luster
low hiding power Gold, Red, Blue, Green
Interference Pigments (I)
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Silver Red Green
mica
TiO2-
coating
d2
d1
d2 > d1
• variation of the „optical path
length “ (d ·n2)
• change of the reflected wavelength
• different interference pearl colors
Merck KGaA PM PC Candurin®
Yellow Blu
Perlescent Pigments for Cosmetic Application: Special Effects!
Interference Pigments (II)
f ( )
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Perlescent Pigments for Cosmetic Application: Special Effects!
„silver“ gold red blue green II green III
„white light“
TiO2
reaction time
Interference Pigments (III)
M t lli Pi t
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Perlescent Pigments for Cosmetic Application: Special Effects!
Metallic Pigments
MicaMicaMicaMicaMica
Fe2O3Fe2O3
Fe2O3 Fe2O3
Metallic Color Luster PigmentsBronze Copper Red Red-VioletRed-Green
Fe2O3
Specific color due to coating material & coating thickness
Colorona Copper
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Perlescent Pigments for Cosmetic Application: Special Effects!
Color Pigments
Mica
TiO2Fe2O3
Mica
TiO2
Carmine
Mica
TiO2
Iron Blue
TiO2
Cr 2O3
Mica
Color Luster Pigments
Colorona Precious
GoldColorona Carmine Red Colorona Dark Blue Colorona Majestic Green
S b t t
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Perlescent Pigments for Cosmetic Application: Special Effects!
Substrates
Mica Silica Alumina Glass BiOCl
Classic/wide use
Hiding power Sparkle
Performance
Color
Travel TransparencyGloss Skin feelCompressibility
natural synthetic
Transparency
Synthetic
Mica
S t ti S b t t
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Perlescent Pigments for Cosmetic Application: Special Effects!
Syntetic Substrates
Al2O3 flakes
Ca-Al-Borosilicate flakes
SiO2 flakes
Synthetic Fluorphogopite
Benefits:
Substrate is produced synthetically
Precise control of the substrate properties
Substrate
Metal oxide
Al2O3 Substrate + Pigments
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Perlescent Pigments for Cosmetic Application: Special Effects!
Al2O3 Substrate + Pigments
Al2O3
Metal oxide
Al2O3 flakes Al2O3 flakes coated with metal oxide
SiO2 Flake Substrate + Pigments
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Perlescent Pigments for Cosmetic Application: Special Effects!
SiO2 Flake Substrate + Pigments
Metal oxide
SiO2
SiO2 Flakes SiO2 Flake coated with metal oxide
Xirona® Caribbean Blue
Properties of SiO2 Flake Substrate
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Perlescent Pigments for Cosmetic Application: Special Effects!
A color trave l e ffec t is v is ib le only by chang ing th e
view ing an gle!
SiO 2 f lake
meta l ox ide
pand SiO2 based Pigments
SiO2 based Pigments
Improved color purity
Color travel properties (angle-dependent)
Uniform and precisely controllable substrate thickness
Smooth and regular surface
Transparent without masstone
Own interference color
Improved light reflection and refraction
Ca-Al-Borosilicate Substrate
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Perlescent Pigments for Cosmetic Application: Special Effects!
Ca Al Borosilicate Substrate
Properties of Ca-Al-Borosilicateb d Pi t
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Perlescent Pigments for Cosmetic Application: Special Effects!
based Pigments
Nice skin
feeling
Very high
Transparency
Pure and
Full colors
High brilliance
High gloss
Multi-color
effect
< 1 µm
Ca-Al-Borosilicate-flake
Protective layer
Metal oxide layer 20 – 200 µm
RONASTAR NOBLE
SPARKS
Synthetic Mica Substrate
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Perlescent Pigments for Cosmetic Application: Special Effects!
Chemical composition – Synthetic Fluorphlogopite
– TiO2
– SnO2
Particle size – 20.0 – 180.0 µm (80% in range)
Extraordinary brilliant sparkle
Clean white masstone
Balanced transparency/coverageSurprisingly good skin feel
High metallic luster
Synthetic Mica Substrate
TIMIRON ICE CRYSTAL;
TIMIRON SYNWHITE 40
Possible Combinations of Pigments
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Perlescent Pigments for Cosmetic Application: Special Effects!
Possible Combinations of Pigments
pure pigment
on a black background
pigment mixture
exception:complementary
interference pigments
plus colorants (in-org.or org. dye or pigment)
Interference pigments
Silverwhite pigments
Gold pigments
Color Luster pigments
Color Travel pigments
Color Mixing Rules
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Perlescent Pigments for Cosmetic Application: Special Effects!
Absorption pigments = subtractive color mix
yellow + blue = green
Interference pigments = additive color mix
yellow + blue = white
Color Mixing Rules ...
In case of interference pigments, consider color mixing rules (no subtractive mixing, but additive
mixing!)
Influence of Various Amounts of AbsorptionPigments on the Resulting Pearlescent Effect
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Perlescent Pigments for Cosmetic Application: Special Effects!
Pigments on the Resulting Pearlescent Effect
a m o u n t
o f a b
s o r p t i o
n p i g m
e n t s
absorption-dull effect
pearlescent-shine effect
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Influence of the Product Surface
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Perlescent Pigments for Cosmetic Application: Special Effects!
incoming lightreflected light
pigment platelets
smooth product surfacerough product surface
incoming lightreflected light
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Differences between Color and Care Cosmetics
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Perlescent Pigments for Cosmetic Application: Special Effects!
Differences between Color and Care Cosmetics
Color cosmetics Care products
Target group Limited to women & girls Male and female population
Buying intention
Additional / luxurious product /Sense of fashion
Relation between color shade
and buying intention
Necessity / personal hygiene
Styling and indulgence
Differences between Color and Care Cosmetics
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Perlescent Pigments for Cosmetic Application: Special Effects!
Differences between Color and Care Cosmetics
Smaller variety of different product categories
Limited coloring potential
Long lasting
Less dependent on fashion trends
Invisible / hardly visible on the skin
Large variety of different productcategories
Big color range in each category
Short duration (seasonal look)
Dependent on fashion trends
Long visibility after application
Care productsColor cosmetics
Pearl Luster PigmentsBasic Rules for Formulating
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Perlescent Pigments for Cosmetic Application: Special Effects!
Basic Rules for Formulating
Use the most transparent formulation possible
The less opacity the formulation has, the better the pearlescent effect;
therefore, lower pigment concentrations are needed. Opaque formulations
require higher pigment levels, because light scattering decreases
pearlescence.
Avoid grinding and milling of pearlescent pigments
If mechanical stress onto the pigments is too high, the pigment particles might
break or the metal oxide layer might be removed from the substrate, resultingin loss of luster and color change.
Consider color-mixing rules in case of interference pigments
Absorption pigments mix subtractively, because the visible color is the non-
absorbed portion of light. Interference pigments mix additively, because thevisible color is the reflected portion of light.
Color (decorative) Cosmetics: Main Segments
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Perlescent Pigments for Cosmetic Application: Special Effects!
Eyes (e.g. eyeshadows, eyeliners, mascara...)
Lips (e.g. lipsticks, lip gloss,...)
Nails (e.g. nail lacquers)
Hair (e.g. styling mousse, hair wax, styling gels …)
Face (e.g. foundations, concealers, blushers,…)
Personal Care: Main Segments
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Perlescent Pigments for Cosmetic Application: Special Effects!
Skin care (e.g. moisturizers, lotions, creams, oils, gels,…)
Hair care (e.g. shampoos, conditioners, styling products,coloring products ...)
Body care (e.g. soap bars, liquid soaps, bath crystals,body washes, shower gels, deodorants, ...)
Oral hygiene (e.g. tooth gels, tooth pastes, mouth washes, ...)
Men’s cosmetics (e.g. shave and after shave products, ...)
Sun care (e.g. sun lotions and creams,after sun treatments, self-tanning products,...)
g
Formulating Pearl Pigments in differentApplications
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Perlescent Pigments for Cosmetic Application: Special Effects!
Powders
add pearls after / with addition of binder
Addition of pearl pigments to formulations without problems
Applicable for all cosmetic applications
disperse in water or oil/wax phase
no side reactions with other raw materials
pH-stability (only some exceptions)
Dispersions (e.g. nail polish)
add pearls after addition of color solutions
no tendency to agglomerate
pp
Overview Formula Categories
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Perlescent Pigments for Cosmetic Application: Special Effects!
Emulsion
Face cream, body lotion, foundation, mascara, fluid-eyeliner
Stick
Lipstick, foundation & eyeshadow, pencil
Powder
Facepowder, blush, eyeshadow
Paste Blush, lip-gloss, compact-foundation, „cream“-eyeshadow
Dispersion
Nail polish
Gel
Shower gel, liquid soap, hair gel, shampoo
Emulsions
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Perlescent Pigments for Cosmetic Application: Special Effects!
Effect versus Concentration
Effect
Recommended
pigment concentration
Aesthetic
Improvement of product appearance delivers a more
elegant and/or luxurious effect for skin care and make-up formulations.No coloring of the skin. 0.05 – 0.5 %
Functional
Providing additionally a coloring effect on the skin
similar to color cosmetic products. 0.5 – 4.0 %
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Stabilization of Pearl Pigments
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Perlescent Pigments for Cosmetic Application:
Special Effects!
In highly viscous systems, pearl luster pigments are stable within the
base. Only in systems of very low viscosity pearl luster pigments have to
be stabilized against sedimentation. Pearl pigments usually do not require
additional suspension agents in foundations. The concentration of
thickeners depends on the final viscosity and can vary from 0.5 to 1.5 %.
Cream with Violet Interference PigmentCream with Blue Interference Pigment
Formulating with Pearl Pigments Emulsion:Pigment Addition before
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Perlescent Pigments for Cosmetic Application: Special Effects!
Avoid excessive homogenization!
g
water phase:addition of pearl pigment
emulsifying
cooling down
Formulating with Pearl Pigments Emulsion:Pigment Addition after
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Perlescent Pigments for Cosmetic Application: Special Effects!
Work under vacuum, stir slowly to avoid introduction of air
emulsifying / homogenizing
cooling down
addition of pearl pigment
Stick Formulations
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Perlescent Pigments for Cosmetic Application: Special Effects!
Waxes 10-25%
Oils 40-65%
may contain volatiles 0-30%
Pearlescent pigments 0-20%
Color pigments 3-15%
Functional fillers 0-8%
Additives q.s.
e.g. actives, SPF, perfume
Formulating with Pearl PigmentsOil / Wax based Products
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Perlescent Pigments for Cosmetic Application: Special Effects!
Stir during filling to avoid sedimentation!
oil / wax phase
~80°C
addition of pearl pigment
(only stirring)
cooling down
A high content of pearl pigments in lipstick formulations may cause flow
lines in the finished lipsticks. This can happen if the temperature of the
moulds is not adjusted to the temperature of the lipstick mass. The moulds
should be pre-heated to 50 - 60°C.
Due to their high density pearl luster pigments based on mica may settle down
either in the hot melted lipstick bulk or within the lipstick moulds after pouring.This can be avoided by stirring continuously during incorporation of the
pigments and by maintaining a low pouring temperature.
Recommended usage concentration of pearl lusterpigments to achieve different effects in lipsticks
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Perlescent Pigments for Cosmetic Application: Special Effects!
Desired Effect Reccomanded
Concentration
Remarks
Subtle pearl effect 1 – 5% All particle sizes
Strong pearl and luster
effect
5 – 15% All particle sizes
Highlighting, sparkling
effect
1 – 10% > 100 microns
Recommended usage concentration of pearl lusterpigments for different lip applications
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Perlescent Pigments for Cosmetic Application: Special Effects!
Finished Product Level of Use
Lipstick 1 – 20%
Lip balm 3 – 5%
Lip gloss 1 – 5%
Lip lacquer 10 – 15%
Personal CareShower Gels and Shampoos
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Perlescent Pigments for Cosmetic Application: Special Effects!
Formulation Tips for Gel Products
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Perlescent Pigments for Cosmetic Application: Special Effects!
Use the most transparent formulation possible
The less opacity the formulation has, the better is the visible effect, and the
lower is the concentration on pearls needed.
Create your colorUse a colored (water/oil soluble dyes) or non-colored base formulation and
add a small amount of pearl pigments to add shine and highlights.
Effect of particle size
Small particles create silky and satiny effects, opacify the mass and impartricher appearance. Larger sized particles will provide high luster, sparkling or
glittering effects. The formulation will stay almost transparent.
Formulating with Pearl PigmentsWater based Products
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Perlescent Pigments for Cosmetic Application: Special Effects!
Avoid excessive agitation!
water
disperse pearlescent pigment
add stabilisator / thickener
Formulating with Pearl PigmentsRules to be Considered
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Perlescent Pigments for Cosmetic Application: Special Effects!
Addition of pearl pigments to water or oil phase
Addition of thickeners after pearl pigment
No strong homogenization necessary
Avoid excessive homogenization – loss of gloss in case of big particle sized
pigments possible!
Personal CareTooth Pastes / Tooth Gels
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Perlescent Pigments for Cosmetic Application: Special Effects!
Usually manufacturers only use pearl pigments to highlight the transparent and colored (red,
blue or green) stripes.
Due to the high light scattering properties of titanium dioxide the pearlescent effect in the
white part will be minimized. Usage level: 0.1 - 0.6%
Recommended particle size D90: >50µm (as coarse as possible)
Merck’s Brands
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Perlescent Pigments for Cosmetic Application: Special Effects!
Timiron ® Silverwhite & interference pigments
Colorona ® Pearlescence plus absorption equals color (Gold, Color Luster, Metallic Color, Two-Tone, Mica Black)
Xirona ® Brilliant Color Travel pigments
Ronastar ® Pigments with high chroma, sophisticated effects
and clean mass tone