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    #P10-10 Mantle ClockHeres a fun clock project that looks fancy, yetis very easy to make. Youll be amazed! 18H

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    GENERAL SCROLLSAW TIPS & TECHNIQUESThe following scrollsaw tips and techniques are intended to get you started and on your way to scrollsaw success.

    Not only will you find these techniques helpful in completing the this project, you will also find that they can be applied

    to many other scrollsaw projects as well.

    HARDWOODS VS PLYWOODS Selecting the type of material you will use is very important for the final outcome of your project. This project has

    been designed so that hardwoods, plywoods, or a combination can be used to create your work of art.

    Hardwoods have their advantages as well as their disadvantages. They come in a variety of species, colors and grain

    patterns, yet they are more time consuming requiring more sanding, are more likely to warp and are more expensive

    to use.

    Plywoods, on the other hand, are less expensive, require less sanding, and come in a variety of standard thicknesses.

    They also are less likely to develop cracks or warp. We do, however, recommend that you use a top grade plywood

    without voids, such as the Baltic and Finnish birches.

    SANDING For most projects, it is best to sand the work piece prior to applying the paper pattern and cutting the design. Once

    youve cut the design, and removed the paper pattern, it may be necessary to lightly sand any glue residue remaining,along with any fuzz on the bottom side.

    BLADE SELECTION There are many opinions pertaining to which blade to use with which type and thickness of material, as well as,

    with how intricate the design in the project is. The more time

    you put into scrolling, the more your choice of which blade to

    use will become personal preference. For the beginning

    scroller we make the following recommendations to get

    you started:

    USING THE PATTERNS Downloadable patterns give you the advantage of printing the patterns on your own printer at your own convenience.

    Be sure to download all of the file and save it to a disk or your harddrive according to your computer softwares

    instructions.

    Once you have printed the number of pattern pieces that you will need to complete your projects, you are ready

    to apply the pattern to your work pieces.

    Apply the repositionable spray adhesive as directed in the next section. If your project requires piecing 2 or more

    sheets of paper together to make the full-size pattern piece, simply follow the instructions below for accurate alignment.

    Blade Size Recommended

    #2/0 or #2

    #5 or #7

    #7 or #9

    Material Thickness

    1/16 - 1/4

    1/4 - 1/2

    1/2 - 3/4 or thicker

    Step 1Using a straightedge and a craft knife, cut on the dashed

    Pattern Overlap Lines to remove the excess paper.

    Step 2Next, align the sections and secure together with clear tape.Now, apply the repositionable spray adhesive to the backsideof the paper pattern as instructed in the next section.

    Cut onsolidlineforFrameonly.

    Frame &BackStock:1/8-1/4,cut1eachLeft pattern piece.

    Cut ondashed linefor Back

    Pattern

    overlap

    line Clear

    tape

    Craft knife

    Ruler

    Patternoverlapline

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    REPOSITIONABLE SPRAY ADHESIVEUsing a repositionable spray adhesive is the easiest and quickest way to transfer a pattern to your work piece after

    photo copying it. In a well ventilated area, lightly spray the backside of the paper pattern. Allow it to dry only until tacky

    - approximately 20 - 30 seconds. Then apply it to the work piece, smoothing any wrinkles if necessary.

    Two common problems that sometimes occur when using repositionable spray adhesive for the first time is applying

    the right amount onto the back of the pattern. Spraying too little may result in the pattern lifting off of the project before

    you have finished cutting. If this occurs, clear scotch tape can be used to secure the pattern back into position. On the

    other hand, spraying too much will make it difficult to remove the pattern, If this occurs, simply use a hand held hairdryer to heat the glue, which will loosen the pattern allowing it to be easily

    removed.

    DRILLING STARTER HOLES When drilling starter holes it is best to drill close to a corner, rather

    than in the middle of the waste areas, as it will take less time for the blade

    to reach the pattern line.

    STACK CUTTING Stack cutting is fairly simple to do and can save you a lot of time when

    you have 2 or more identical pieces to cut for a project. If you are fairly

    new to scrollsawing and stack cutting, we recommend cutting no more

    than a total thickness

    of 1/2 for best

    results.

    On projects with

    fairly simple shapes to cut out, 2 or 3 layers could be held together

    by double-sided tape, or by using spray glue on paper to sandwich

    between the work pieces.

    On more intricate projects we suggest using #18 wire nails or

    brads slightly longer than the total thickness of the stack you are

    cutting. Tack the nails into the waste areas you will cut out, along

    with a few around the outside of the project. If the nail has gone

    through the bottom of the work piece, use a hammer to tap it flush,

    or use coarse sandpaper to sand the points flush with the bottom

    of the work piece.

    If you are stack cutting hardwoods, do not tack the nail too close

    to the pattern line or it may cause the wood to split. Another option would be to predrill for the nails with a slightly

    smaller drill bit so the nail will fit snugly and hold the layers together securely.

    SAWING THIN WOODS Occasionally you may find it difficult to control your workpiece when cutting in thin hardwoods or plywoods. The

    following suggestions should help to eliminate or reduce this problem.

    1. If you have a variable speed saw, reduce the speed to 1/2 to 3/4 of high speed.

    2. If you do not have a variable speed saw, it will help to stack cut 2 or more layers of your material to keep better

    control of the workpiece.

    3. For cutting any thickness of material it is very beneficial to keep at least one hand, if not both, partially touching the

    table with your fingers for better control.

    4. Using a smaller blade with more teeth per inch helps to slow down how fast the blade is cutting. But keep in mind

    that if the blade is leaving burn marks you will need to slow the speed down or use a blade with less teeth per inch.

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    VEINING Veining is a simple technique that will bring a lifelike

    appearance to your project. The veins of a leaf or the folds

    of clothing will look more realistic when this technique is

    incorporated. To vein, simply saw all solid black lines as

    indicated on the pattern. Some areas of the pattern you will

    be able to vein by sawing inward from the outside edge, whilein other areas you will need to drill a tiny starter hole for the

    blade.

    AUXILIARY TABLE Most scrollsaws on the market today have an opening in

    the table around the blade that is much larger than what you

    really need. This often causes small and delicate fretwork to

    break off on the downward stroke of the blade. An easy solution

    is to add a wooden auxiliary table to the top of the metal table

    on your saw.

    To make an auxiliary table, choose a piece of 1/4 - 3/8 plywood

    similar to the size of your current saws table. If you choose, you can

    cut this plywood to the same shape as the metal table on your saw, or

    any shape or size you prefer. However, we do recommend that you make

    the table larger than what you think you will need for the size of the

    projects you will make in the future.

    Next, set the auxiliary table on top of the metal table. From the

    underside of the metal table, use a pencil to mark the location where

    the blade will feed through. Then turn the auxiliary table over and drill

    a 1/16 - 1/8 diameter hole, or slightly larger than the blade you willbe using.

    Finally, apply a couple of strips of double-sided carpet tape to the

    metal table on each side of the blade. Then, firmly press the auxiliary

    table onto the double-sided carpet tape, making sure that the blade is

    centered in the hole.

    FINISHING TECHNIQUES If youve made your project from hardwood, we recommend dipping your project in a dishpan type of container

    that contains a penetrating oil such as Watco, Tung, or others. After dipping, allow the excess oil to drain back into

    the pan and then follow the manufacturers instructions.

    If you have chosen to use plywood, such as Baltic Birch, you can use any of the wide variety of wood stains

    available on the market. We do, however, recommend sanding the surface thoroughly, in order for the plywood to

    accept the stain more evenly.

    As a final finish step, we highly recommend using a clear varathane type spray for a protective coating.

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    #P10-10

    The Berry Basket Copyright 2002 All Rights Reserved

    www.greatamericanscrollsaw.com a division of The Berry Basket

    GREAT AMERICAN

    DOWNLOADABLE PATTERNS TM

    #P10-10 Assembly Instructions1. Select your material from a variety of hardwoods or solid core plywood.

    2. Measure each pattern piece and cut the work pieces to size accordingly.

    Sand as necessary.

    3. Make all pattern pieces by adhering the paper patterns to the work pieces

    with a repositionable spray adhesive. Cut the outer shapes and any interior

    designs. And drill where indicated.

    4. Remove all paper patterns. Sand where needed. The edges can be rounded

    by sanding or using a small roundover router bit if desired.

    5.Assemble by first attaching the Sides and Spacer to the Front. Then, attachthe Back. Now, attach the Base and the Edging. Next, attach the SideBrackets and the Fences. Proceed to attach the Roof and Crest, and the Dial.Finish as desired. Insert the clock movement, attach the hands, and hang thePendulum.

    #P10-10 Mantle Clock

    AC

    B

    E

    F

    G

    H

    I

    J

    K

    D

    J

    Pendulum (K)Stock 1/8

    Hook

    Clockmovement

    Front

    Insert the remaining 1/4side through the

    pendulum hook on theClock Movement.

    3

    RecommendedPendulum Movement - #C131Hands - #C137 or #C138

    A

    B

    C

    D

    E

    F

    G

    H

    I

    J

    K

    1 ea

    1

    2

    1

    2

    1

    2

    1

    1

    2

    1

    Front & Back

    Crest

    Side

    Edging

    Side Bracket

    Base

    Roof

    Spacer

    Dial

    Fence

    Pendulum

    Description Item Qty

    #P10-10 Mantle Clock

    1/4T x 6W x 13 3/4L

    1/8 - 1/4T x 6 3/8W x 11L

    1/4T x 3 3/16W x 11 3/16L

    1/4T x 5 3/4W x 9 3/4L

    1/4T x 2W x 10 3/4L

    1/4 - 1/2T x 5 3/4W x 9 3/4L

    1/4T x 4 1/4W x 4 7/16L

    1/4 - 1/2T x 3 3/16W x 5 7/16L

    1/8T x 5 3/4W x 5 3/4L

    1/4T x 2W x 8 1/4L

    1/8T x 1 5/8W x 5L

    Side view of PendulumClock Movement Assembly

    Clockmovement

    Hook

    Pendulum

    Front

    Side view of PendulumClock Movement Assembly

    Diagram for Attaching Pendulumto Clock Movement

    Secure one 1/4 sideof the hanger to thetop front of thePendulum withcontact cement orsuper glue.

    2Pendulum

    Hook

    Form a hanger by bending a thinpiece of sheet metal 3/8W x 5/8Linto the following shape

    1

    1/41/4

    1/8

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    Spacer (H)

    Edging (D)

    Front & Back (A)Stock: 1/4, 1 eachCut design in front only.Bottom pattern piece.

    Attach Sides and Spacer with glue and#18 x 5/8wire brads.

    Bore 5/16 hole forclock shaft.

    Pattern overlap line

    #P10-10

    The Berry Basket Copyright 2002

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    Roof

    (G)

    Roof(G)

    1/4 diameter x 3 5/8 Ldowel. Secure with glue.

    Front & Back (A)Stock: 1/4, 1 eachTop pattern piece.

    Dashed line indicates placementof Dial (I).

    Bore 5/16 hole for clockshaft in front only.

    Note - Cut a 4 hole in the Back forchanging batteries and setting time.

    Pattern overlap line#P10-10

    Front

    Top

    Roof (G)Stock: 1/4, cut 2

    Front(A)

    Back(A)

    The Berry Basket Copyright 2002

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    Crest(B)

    Stock:1/8-1/4

    Rightpatternpiece.

    Pattern overlap line

    Crest(B)

    Stock:1/8-1/4

    Leftpatternpiece.

    AttachCresttoRoofw

    ithglue

    and#18x5/8wirebra

    ds.

    Pattern overlap line

    #P10-10

    The Berry Basket Copyright 2002

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    Side (C)Stock: 1/4, cut 2Bottom pattern piece.

    Spacer (H)

    Pattern overlap line

    Side Bracket (E)Stock: 1/4, cut 2. Cut eachin half and fit above andbelow Edging (D).Top pattern piece.

    Pattern overlap line

    Side (C)Stock: 1/4, cut 2Top pattern piece.

    Pattern overlap line

    #P10-10

    Side Bracket (E)Stock: 1/4, cut 2. Cut each in

    half and fit above andbelow Edging (D)

    Bottom pattern piece.

    Pattern overlap line

    The Berry Basket Copyright 2002

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    #P10-10

    Edging

    (D)

    Stock:1/4

    Front(A)

    Front(A)

    Side(C)

    Side(C)

    Back(A)

    Side

    Bracket(E)

    Front

    Fence(J)

    The Berry Basket Copyright 2002

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    #P10-10

    Base(F)

    Stock:1/4-1/2

    Front(A)

    Front(A)

    Side(C)

    Side(C)

    Back(A)

    Spacer(H)goeshere.

    Front

    Fence(J)

    The Berry Basket Copyright 2002

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    #P10-10

    Fence(J)

    Stock:1/4,cut2

    Dial (I)Stock: 1/8Drill 5 1/6 hole for clock shaft.

    Spacer (H)Stock: 1/4 - 1/2

    The Berry Basket Copyright 2002

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    #P488 - Black Forest ClockCapture old world charm with our popularBlack Forest Clock. 16 tall.

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    GENERAL SCROLLSAW TIPS & TECHNIQUESThe following scrollsaw tips and techniques are intended to get you started and on your way to scrollsaw success.

    Not only will you find these techniques helpful in completing the this project, you will also find that they can be applied

    to many other scrollsaw projects as well.

    HARDWOODS VS PLYWOODS Selecting the type of material you will use is very important for the final outcome of your project. This project has

    been designed so that hardwoods, plywoods, or a combination can be used to create your work of art.

    Hardwoods have their advantages as well as their disadvantages. They come in a variety of species, colors and grain

    patterns, yet they are more time consuming requiring more sanding, are more likely to warp and are more expensive

    to use.

    Plywoods, on the other hand, are less expensive, require less sanding, and come in a variety of standard thicknesses.

    They also are less likely to develop cracks or warp. We do, however, recommend that you use a top grade plywood

    without voids, such as the Baltic and Finnish birches.

    SANDING For most projects, it is best to sand the work piece prior to applying the paper pattern and cutting the design. Once

    youve cut the design, and removed the paper pattern, it may be necessary to lightly sand any glue residue remaining,along with any fuzz on the bottom side.

    BLADE SELECTION There are many opinions pertaining to which blade to use with which type and thickness of material, as well as,

    with how intricate the design in the project is. The more time

    you put into scrolling, the more your choice of which blade to

    use will become personal preference. For the beginning

    scroller we make the following recommendations to get

    you started:

    USING THE PATTERNS Downloadable patterns give you the advantage of printing the patterns on your own printer at your own convenience.

    Be sure to download all of the file and save it to a disk or your harddrive according to your computer softwares

    instructions.

    Once you have printed the number of pattern pieces that you will need to complete your projects, you are ready

    to apply the pattern to your work pieces.

    Apply the repositionable spray adhesive as directed in the next section. If your project requires piecing 2 or more

    sheets of paper together to make the full-size pattern piece, simply follow the instructions below for accurate alignment.

    Blade Size Recommended

    #2/0 or #2

    #5 or #7

    #7 or #9

    Material Thickness

    1/16 - 1/4

    1/4 - 1/2

    1/2 - 3/4 or thicker

    Step 1Using a straightedge and a craft knife, cut on the dashed

    Pattern Overlap Lines to remove the excess paper.

    Step 2Next, align the sections and secure together with clear tape.Now, apply the repositionable spray adhesive to the backsideof the paper pattern as instructed in the next section.

    Cut onsolidlineforFrameonly.

    Frame &BackStock:1/8-1/4,cut1eachLeft pattern piece.

    Cut ondashed linefor Back

    Pattern

    overlap

    line Clear

    tape

    Craft knife

    Ruler

    Patternoverlapline

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    REPOSITIONABLE SPRAY ADHESIVEUsing a repositionable spray adhesive is the easiest and quickest way to transfer a pattern to your work piece after

    photo copying it. In a well ventilated area, lightly spray the backside of the paper pattern. Allow it to dry only until tacky

    - approximately 20 - 30 seconds. Then apply it to the work piece, smoothing any wrinkles if necessary.

    Two common problems that sometimes occur when using repositionable spray adhesive for the first time is applying

    the right amount onto the back of the pattern. Spraying too little may result in the pattern lifting off of the project before

    you have finished cutting. If this occurs, clear scotch tape can be used to secure the pattern back into position. On the

    other hand, spraying too much will make it difficult to remove the pattern, If this occurs, simply use a hand held hairdryer to heat the glue, which will loosen the pattern allowing it to be easily

    removed.

    DRILLING STARTER HOLES When drilling starter holes it is best to drill close to a corner, rather

    than in the middle of the waste areas, as it will take less time for the blade

    to reach the pattern line.

    STACK CUTTING Stack cutting is fairly simple to do and can save you a lot of time when

    you have 2 or more identical pieces to cut for a project. If you are fairly

    new to scrollsawing and stack cutting, we recommend cutting no more

    than a total thickness

    of 1/2 for best

    results.

    On projects with

    fairly simple shapes to cut out, 2 or 3 layers could be held together

    by double-sided tape, or by using spray glue on paper to sandwich

    between the work pieces.

    On more intricate projects we suggest using #18 wire nails or

    brads slightly longer than the total thickness of the stack you are

    cutting. Tack the nails into the waste areas you will cut out, along

    with a few around the outside of the project. If the nail has gone

    through the bottom of the work piece, use a hammer to tap it flush,

    or use coarse sandpaper to sand the points flush with the bottom

    of the work piece.

    If you are stack cutting hardwoods, do not tack the nail too close

    to the pattern line or it may cause the wood to split. Another option would be to predrill for the nails with a slightly

    smaller drill bit so the nail will fit snugly and hold the layers together securely.

    SAWING THIN WOODS Occasionally you may find it difficult to control your workpiece when cutting in thin hardwoods or plywoods. The

    following suggestions should help to eliminate or reduce this problem.

    1. If you have a variable speed saw, reduce the speed to 1/2 to 3/4 of high speed.

    2. If you do not have a variable speed saw, it will help to stack cut 2 or more layers of your material to keep better

    control of the workpiece.

    3. For cutting any thickness of material it is very beneficial to keep at least one hand, if not both, partially touching the

    table with your fingers for better control.

    4. Using a smaller blade with more teeth per inch helps to slow down how fast the blade is cutting. But keep in mind

    that if the blade is leaving burn marks you will need to slow the speed down or use a blade with less teeth per inch.

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    VEINING Veining is a simple technique that will bring a lifelike

    appearance to your project. The veins of a leaf or the folds

    of clothing will look more realistic when this technique is

    incorporated. To vein, simply saw all solid black lines as

    indicated on the pattern. Some areas of the pattern you will

    be able to vein by sawing inward from the outside edge, whilein other areas you will need to drill a tiny starter hole for the

    blade.

    AUXILIARY TABLE Most scrollsaws on the market today have an opening in

    the table around the blade that is much larger than what you

    really need. This often causes small and delicate fretwork to

    break off on the downward stroke of the blade. An easy solution

    is to add a wooden auxiliary table to the top of the metal table

    on your saw.

    To make an auxiliary table, choose a piece of 1/4 - 3/8 plywood

    similar to the size of your current saws table. If you choose, you can

    cut this plywood to the same shape as the metal table on your saw, or

    any shape or size you prefer. However, we do recommend that you make

    the table larger than what you think you will need for the size of the

    projects you will make in the future.

    Next, set the auxiliary table on top of the metal table. From the

    underside of the metal table, use a pencil to mark the location where

    the blade will feed through. Then turn the auxiliary table over and drill

    a 1/16 - 1/8 diameter hole, or slightly larger than the blade you willbe using.

    Finally, apply a couple of strips of double-sided carpet tape to the

    metal table on each side of the blade. Then, firmly press the auxiliary

    table onto the double-sided carpet tape, making sure that the blade is

    centered in the hole.

    FINISHING TECHNIQUES If youve made your project from hardwood, we recommend dipping your project in a dishpan type of container

    that contains a penetrating oil such as Watco, Tung, or others. After dipping, allow the excess oil to drain back into

    the pan and then follow the manufacturers instructions.

    If you have chosen to use plywood, such as Baltic Birch, you can use any of the wide variety of wood stains

    available on the market. We do, however, recommend sanding the surface thoroughly, in order for the plywood to

    accept the stain more evenly.

    As a final finish step, we highly recommend using a clear varathane type spray for a protective coating.

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    #P488

    The Berry Basket Copyright 2002 All Rights Reserved

    www.greatamericanscrollsaw.com a division of The Berry Basket

    GREAT AMERICAN

    DOWNLOADABLE PATTERNS TM

    1. Select your material from a variety of hardwoods or solid core

    plywood.

    2. Measure each pattern piece and cut the work pieces to size

    accordingly. Sand as necessary.

    3. Make all pattern pieces by adhering the paper patterns to the

    work pieces with a repositionable spray adhesive. Cut the outer

    shapes and any interior designs. And drill where indicated.

    4. Remove all paper patterns. Sand where needed. The edges can

    be rounded by sanding or using a small roundover router bit if

    desired.

    5. Assemble by first attaching the Pendulum to the Back. Next

    attach the Frame to the Back with glue and finishing nails. Then

    attach the Crest, Leaves, Bird, Door Frame, and Door. Finally,attach brass eye screws to the bottom of the clock assembly and

    to the top of the Pinecones. Use chain to hang the Pinecones.

    Finish as desired and insert the clock insert.

    #P488 Black Forest Clock Instructions

    Note: For a more realistic appearance,cut along all solid black lines on theBird and Leaf patterns. Shape eachsection by sanding the interior edges.Glue back together.

    1

    2

    3

    4

    5

    678

    9

    10

    1112

    B

    A

    C

    C

    C

    D

    EF

    G

    HH

    I

    C

    Intarsia Leaf (C)Stock: 1/2 - 3/4, cut 5

    Pinecone(H)

    Stock:3/8-1/2

    ,cut2

    #P488 - Black Forest ClockDescription Item Qty

    A

    B

    C

    D

    E

    F

    G

    HI

    Back

    Frame

    Intarsia Leaf

    Intarsia Bird

    Door

    Door Frame

    Crest

    PineconePendulum

    1

    1

    5

    1

    1

    1

    1

    21

    Size

    3/4T x 4 3/4W x 7L

    3/4T x 7 1/2W x 9 3/4L

    1/2 - 3/4T x 3 1/4W x 4L

    1/2 - 3/4T x 3 1/4W x 4 3/4L

    1/4T x 1 1/4W x 1 1/4L

    1/4T x 2W x 2 1/2L

    3/4T x 3 3/4W x 8L

    3/8 - 1/2T x 1 1/4W x 4 3/4L3/4T x 1W x 10 1/2L

    #P488 - Black Forest Clock

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    #P488

    Door Frame (F)Stock: 1/4

    Door (E)Stock: 1/4

    Carve orscrollsaw linesinto Door

    Note: To scroll saw the lines into theDoor after cutting the outer shape,hold the work piece vertically on yourscroll saw table and gently press thework piece into the blade.

    Bore a 2 3/8 holefor clock insert

    Use chain and eyescrews to hangPinecone from

    bottom of Back(A). Center eyescrew from front toback.

    Back (A)Stock: 3/4

    Slot forPendulum

    Dashed-dot linesindicate Doorand Door Frameplacement

    Dashed linesindicatePinecones

    The Berry Basket Copyright 2002

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    #P488

    Roundoveredges with arouter bit orby sanding.

    Dashed lineindicatesBack (A)

    Small dashedline indicatesCrest (G)

    Frame (B)Stock: 3/4

    The Berry Basket Copyright 2002

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    #P488

    IntarsiaBir

    d(D)

    Stock:1/2-3/

    4

    Pendulum (I)Stock: 3/4, front view

    Side view ofPendulum (I)top

    Front

    Side view ofPendulum (I)bottom

    Roun

    doveredges

    with

    arouterbitorby

    sanding.

    Crest(G)

    Stock:3/4

    The Berry Basket Copyright 2002

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    #P650 - Pendulum Clock10 1/2H. Order Movement #C132 &Hands #C139 or #C140

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    GENERAL SCROLLSAW TIPS & TECHNIQUESThe following scrollsaw tips and techniques are intended to get you started and on your way to scrollsaw success.

    Not only will you find these techniques helpful in completing the this project, you will also find that they can be applied

    to many other scrollsaw projects as well.

    HARDWOODS VS PLYWOODS Selecting the type of material you will use is very important for the final outcome of your project. This project has

    been designed so that hardwoods, plywoods, or a combination can be used to create your work of art.

    Hardwoods have their advantages as well as their disadvantages. They come in a variety of species, colors and grain

    patterns, yet they are more time consuming requiring more sanding, are more likely to warp and are more expensive

    to use.

    Plywoods, on the other hand, are less expensive, require less sanding, and come in a variety of standard thicknesses.

    They also are less likely to develop cracks or warp. We do, however, recommend that you use a top grade plywood

    without voids, such as the Baltic and Finnish birches.

    SANDING For most projects, it is best to sand the work piece prior to applying the paper pattern and cutting the design. Once

    youve cut the design, and removed the paper pattern, it may be necessary to lightly sand any glue residue remaining,along with any fuzz on the bottom side.

    BLADE SELECTION There are many opinions pertaining to which blade to use with which type and thickness of material, as well as,

    with how intricate the design in the project is. The more time

    you put into scrolling, the more your choice of which blade to

    use will become personal preference. For the beginning

    scroller we make the following recommendations to get

    you started:

    USING THE PATTERNS Downloadable patterns give you the advantage of printing the patterns on your own printer at your own convenience.

    Be sure to download all of the file and save it to a disk or your harddrive according to your computer softwares

    instructions.

    Once you have printed the number of pattern pieces that you will need to complete your projects, you are ready

    to apply the pattern to your work pieces.

    Apply the repositionable spray adhesive as directed in the next section. If your project requires piecing 2 or more

    sheets of paper together to make the full-size pattern piece, simply follow the instructions below for accurate alignment.

    Blade Size Recommended

    #2/0 or #2

    #5 or #7

    #7 or #9

    Material Thickness

    1/16 - 1/4

    1/4 - 1/2

    1/2 - 3/4 or thicker

    Step 1Using a straightedge and a craft knife, cut on the dashed

    Pattern Overlap Lines to remove the excess paper.

    Step 2Next, align the sections and secure together with clear tape.Now, apply the repositionable spray adhesive to the backsideof the paper pattern as instructed in the next section.

    Cut onsolidlineforFrameonly.

    Frame &BackStock:1/8-1/4,cut1eachLeft pattern piece.

    Cut ondashed linefor Back

    Pattern

    overlap

    line Clear

    tape

    Craft knife

    Ruler

    Patternoverlapline

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    REPOSITIONABLE SPRAY ADHESIVEUsing a repositionable spray adhesive is the easiest and quickest way to transfer a pattern to your work piece after

    photo copying it. In a well ventilated area, lightly spray the backside of the paper pattern. Allow it to dry only until tacky

    - approximately 20 - 30 seconds. Then apply it to the work piece, smoothing any wrinkles if necessary.

    Two common problems that sometimes occur when using repositionable spray adhesive for the first time is applying

    the right amount onto the back of the pattern. Spraying too little may result in the pattern lifting off of the project before

    you have finished cutting. If this occurs, clear scotch tape can be used to secure the pattern back into position. On the

    other hand, spraying too much will make it difficult to remove the pattern, If this occurs, simply use a hand held hairdryer to heat the glue, which will loosen the pattern allowing it to be easily

    removed.

    DRILLING STARTER HOLES When drilling starter holes it is best to drill close to a corner, rather

    than in the middle of the waste areas, as it will take less time for the blade

    to reach the pattern line.

    STACK CUTTING Stack cutting is fairly simple to do and can save you a lot of time when

    you have 2 or more identical pieces to cut for a project. If you are fairly

    new to scrollsawing and stack cutting, we recommend cutting no more

    than a total thickness

    of 1/2 for best

    results.

    On projects with

    fairly simple shapes to cut out, 2 or 3 layers could be held together

    by double-sided tape, or by using spray glue on paper to sandwich

    between the work pieces.

    On more intricate projects we suggest using #18 wire nails or

    brads slightly longer than the total thickness of the stack you are

    cutting. Tack the nails into the waste areas you will cut out, along

    with a few around the outside of the project. If the nail has gone

    through the bottom of the work piece, use a hammer to tap it flush,

    or use coarse sandpaper to sand the points flush with the bottom

    of the work piece.

    If you are stack cutting hardwoods, do not tack the nail too close

    to the pattern line or it may cause the wood to split. Another option would be to predrill for the nails with a slightly

    smaller drill bit so the nail will fit snugly and hold the layers together securely.

    SAWING THIN WOODS Occasionally you may find it difficult to control your workpiece when cutting in thin hardwoods or plywoods. The

    following suggestions should help to eliminate or reduce this problem.

    1. If you have a variable speed saw, reduce the speed to 1/2 to 3/4 of high speed.

    2. If you do not have a variable speed saw, it will help to stack cut 2 or more layers of your material to keep better

    control of the workpiece.

    3. For cutting any thickness of material it is very beneficial to keep at least one hand, if not both, partially touching the

    table with your fingers for better control.

    4. Using a smaller blade with more teeth per inch helps to slow down how fast the blade is cutting. But keep in mind

    that if the blade is leaving burn marks you will need to slow the speed down or use a blade with less teeth per inch.

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    VEINING Veining is a simple technique that will bring a lifelike

    appearance to your project. The veins of a leaf or the folds

    of clothing will look more realistic when this technique is

    incorporated. To vein, simply saw all solid black lines as

    indicated on the pattern. Some areas of the pattern you will

    be able to vein by sawing inward from the outside edge, whilein other areas you will need to drill a tiny starter hole for the

    blade.

    AUXILIARY TABLE Most scrollsaws on the market today have an opening in

    the table around the blade that is much larger than what you

    really need. This often causes small and delicate fretwork to

    break off on the downward stroke of the blade. An easy solution

    is to add a wooden auxiliary table to the top of the metal table

    on your saw.

    To make an auxiliary table, choose a piece of 1/4 - 3/8 plywood

    similar to the size of your current saws table. If you choose, you can

    cut this plywood to the same shape as the metal table on your saw, or

    any shape or size you prefer. However, we do recommend that you make

    the table larger than what you think you will need for the size of the

    projects you will make in the future.

    Next, set the auxiliary table on top of the metal table. From the

    underside of the metal table, use a pencil to mark the location where

    the blade will feed through. Then turn the auxiliary table over and drill

    a 1/16 - 1/8 diameter hole, or slightly larger than the blade you willbe using.

    Finally, apply a couple of strips of double-sided carpet tape to the

    metal table on each side of the blade. Then, firmly press the auxiliary

    table onto the double-sided carpet tape, making sure that the blade is

    centered in the hole.

    FINISHING TECHNIQUES If youve made your project from hardwood, we recommend dipping your project in a dishpan type of container

    that contains a penetrating oil such as Watco, Tung, or others. After dipping, allow the excess oil to drain back into

    the pan and then follow the manufacturers instructions.

    If you have chosen to use plywood, such as Baltic Birch, you can use any of the wide variety of wood stains

    available on the market. We do, however, recommend sanding the surface thoroughly, in order for the plywood to

    accept the stain more evenly.

    As a final finish step, we highly recommend using a clear varathane type spray for a protective coating.

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    #P650 -Wildlife Pendulum Plate Clock

    Dial

    Rim

    Top Figure

    Overlay

    Bottom Overlay

    Pendulum Overlay

    Pendulum

    Back

    Clock Support

    Overlay

    Description

    A

    B

    C

    D

    E

    F

    G

    H

    I

    J

    item

    1

    1

    1

    4

    1

    1

    1

    1

    1

    1

    Qty Size

    1/4T x 8 1/4W x 8 1/4L

    1/8T x 10 3/4W x 10 1/2L

    1/16 - 1/8T x 2 1/2W x 5 1/2L

    1/16 - 1/8T x 1 1/4W x 3L

    1/16 - 1/8T x 2 1/4W x 5 3/4L

    1/16 - 1/8T x 3 3/4W x 3 3/4L

    1/16 -1/8T x 2W x 8 5/8L

    1/8T x 8 1/4W x 8 1/4L

    1T x 3 1/2W x 3 3/4L

    1/8T x 4W x 4 1/2L

    #P650

    A

    H

    I

    Backside view of Clock

    #P650 -Wildlife Pendulum Plate Clock

    A

    B

    C

    D

    E

    F

    G

    J

    #P650 - Assembly Instructions1. Select your material from a variety of hardwoods or solid core

    plywood.

    2. Measure each pattern piece and cut the work pieces to size

    accordingly. Sand as necessary.

    3. Make all pattern pieces by adhering the paper patterns to the work

    pieces with a repositionable spray adhesive. Cut the outer shapes and

    any interior designs. And drill where indicated.4. Remove all paper patterns. Sand where needed. The edges can be

    rounded by sanding or using a small roundover router bit if desired.

    5.Assemble by first attaching the Back to the backside of the Dial.

    Then attach the Rim, securing it to the Dial with glue. Now attach the

    Overlays securing with glue. Insert the hand shaft of the clock

    movement through the rubber washer, and then insert the shaft through

    the backside of the clock assembly. Slide the brass washer onto the

    shaft an secure the clock movement into place with the brass hex nut,

    making sure the clock movement is positioned correctly. Next, attach

    the Clock Support into place. Also, attach the Pendulum Overlay to the

    Pendulum. Then secure the sheet metal hanger onto the pendulum, and

    insert into the hook on the clock movement. Finish as desired andattach the hands.

    Patte

    rn

    overlap

    line

    The Berry Basket Copyright 2001 All Rights Reserved

    www.greatamericanscrollsaw.com a division of The Berry Basket

    GREAT AMERICAN

    DOWNLOADABLE PATTERNS TM

    Dial (A) and Back (H)Dial (A) Stock: 1/4, cut interior design in (A) only. Left pattern piece.Back (H) Stock: 1/8, cut on outside solid line only. Left pattern piece.

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    #P650

    Overlay (D)Stock: 1/16 - 1/8, cut 4Spacers: 1/4, cut 8

    Drill 5/16 holefor clock shaft.

    Pattern

    overlap

    line

    Dial (A) and Back (H)Dial (A) Stock: 1/4, cut interior design in (A) only. Right pattern piece.Back (H) Stock: 1/8, cut on outside solid line only. Right pattern piece.

    The Berry Basket Copyright 2001

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    Rim (B)Stock: 1/8. Left pattern piece.

    Pattern

    overlap

    line

    #P650

    Top Figure (C)Stock: 1/16 - 1/8

    Spacers: 1/4, cut 2

    Bottom Overlay (E)Stock: 1/16 - 1/8

    Spacers: 1/4, cut 3

    The Berry Basket Copyright 2001

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    Pattern

    overlap

    line

    Side view of PendulumClock Movement Assembly

    Clockmovement

    Hook

    Pendulum

    Front

    Pendulum Overlay (F)Stock: 1/16 - 1/8

    Pendulum (G)Stock: 1/16 - 1/8

    PendulumOverlay (F)

    Recommended PendulumMovement - #C132Hands - #C139 or #C140

    Diagram for Attaching Pendulumto Clock Movement

    Secure one 1/4 sideof the hanger to thetop front of the

    Pendulum withcontact cement orsuper glue.

    2Pendulum

    Hook

    Form a hanger by bending a thinpiece of sheet metal 3/8W x 5/8Linto the following shape

    1

    1/41/4

    1/8

    Hook

    Clockmovement

    FrontInsert the remaining 1/4side through the

    pendulum hook on theClock Movement.

    3

    Rim (B)Stock: 1/8. Right pattern piece.

    #P650

    The Berry Basket Copyright 2001

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    #P650

    Clock Support (I)Stock: 1. Secure to backsideof Back (H) with glue and wirebrads.

    Drill for hanging or attachhanger of your choice.

    Drill 5/16 holefor clock shaft.

    Overlay (J)Stock: 1/8

    The Berry Basket Copyright 2001

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    #P651 - Pendulum Clock18H. Order Movement #C132 &Hands #C137 or #C138

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    GENERAL SCROLLSAW TIPS & TECHNIQUESThe following scrollsaw tips and techniques are intended to get you started and on your way to scrollsaw success.

    Not only will you find these techniques helpful in completing the this project, you will also find that they can be applied

    to many other scrollsaw projects as well.

    HARDWOODS VS PLYWOODS Selecting the type of material you will use is very important for the final outcome of your project. This project has

    been designed so that hardwoods, plywoods, or a combination can be used to create your work of art.

    Hardwoods have their advantages as well as their disadvantages. They come in a variety of species, colors and grain

    patterns, yet they are more time consuming requiring more sanding, are more likely to warp and are more expensive

    to use.

    Plywoods, on the other hand, are less expensive, require less sanding, and come in a variety of standard thicknesses.

    They also are less likely to develop cracks or warp. We do, however, recommend that you use a top grade plywood

    without voids, such as the Baltic and Finnish birches.

    SANDING For most projects, it is best to sand the work piece prior to applying the paper pattern and cutting the design. Once

    youve cut the design, and removed the paper pattern, it may be necessary to lightly sand any glue residue remaining,along with any fuzz on the bottom side.

    BLADE SELECTION There are many opinions pertaining to which blade to use with which type and thickness of material, as well as,

    with how intricate the design in the project is. The more time

    you put into scrolling, the more your choice of which blade to

    use will become personal preference. For the beginning

    scroller we make the following recommendations to get

    you started:

    USING THE PATTERNS Downloadable patterns give you the advantage of printing the patterns on your own printer at your own convenience.

    Be sure to download all of the file and save it to a disk or your harddrive according to your computer softwares

    instructions.

    Once you have printed the number of pattern pieces that you will need to complete your projects, you are ready

    to apply the pattern to your work pieces.

    Apply the repositionable spray adhesive as directed in the next section. If your project requires piecing 2 or more

    sheets of paper together to make the full-size pattern piece, simply follow the instructions below for accurate alignment.

    Blade Size Recommended

    #2/0 or #2

    #5 or #7

    #7 or #9

    Material Thickness

    1/16 - 1/4

    1/4 - 1/2

    1/2 - 3/4 or thicker

    Step 1Using a straightedge and a craft knife, cut on the dashed

    Pattern Overlap Lines to remove the excess paper.

    Step 2Next, align the sections and secure together with clear tape.Now, apply the repositionable spray adhesive to the backsideof the paper pattern as instructed in the next section.

    Cut onsolidlineforFrameonly.

    Frame &BackStock:1/8-1/4,cut1eachLeft pattern piece.

    Cut ondashed linefor Back

    Pattern

    overlap

    line Clear

    tape

    Craft knife

    Ruler

    Patternoverlapline

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    REPOSITIONABLE SPRAY ADHESIVEUsing a repositionable spray adhesive is the easiest and quickest way to transfer a pattern to your work piece after

    photo copying it. In a well ventilated area, lightly spray the backside of the paper pattern. Allow it to dry only until tacky

    - approximately 20 - 30 seconds. Then apply it to the work piece, smoothing any wrinkles if necessary.

    Two common problems that sometimes occur when using repositionable spray adhesive for the first time is applying

    the right amount onto the back of the pattern. Spraying too little may result in the pattern lifting off of the project before

    you have finished cutting. If this occurs, clear scotch tape can be used to secure the pattern back into position. On the

    other hand, spraying too much will make it difficult to remove the pattern, If this occurs, simply use a hand held hairdryer to heat the glue, which will loosen the pattern allowing it to be easily

    removed.

    DRILLING STARTER HOLES When drilling starter holes it is best to drill close to a corner, rather

    than in the middle of the waste areas, as it will take less time for the blade

    to reach the pattern line.

    STACK CUTTING Stack cutting is fairly simple to do and can save you a lot of time when

    you have 2 or more identical pieces to cut for a project. If you are fairly

    new to scrollsawing and stack cutting, we recommend cutting no more

    than a total thickness

    of 1/2 for best

    results.

    On projects with

    fairly simple shapes to cut out, 2 or 3 layers could be held together

    by double-sided tape, or by using spray glue on paper to sandwich

    between the work pieces.

    On more intricate projects we suggest using #18 wire nails or

    brads slightly longer than the total thickness of the stack you are

    cutting. Tack the nails into the waste areas you will cut out, along

    with a few around the outside of the project. If the nail has gone

    through the bottom of the work piece, use a hammer to tap it flush,

    or use coarse sandpaper to sand the points flush with the bottom

    of the work piece.

    If you are stack cutting hardwoods, do not tack the nail too close

    to the pattern line or it may cause the wood to split. Another option would be to predrill for the nails with a slightly

    smaller drill bit so the nail will fit snugly and hold the layers together securely.

    SAWING THIN WOODS Occasionally you may find it difficult to control your workpiece when cutting in thin hardwoods or plywoods. The

    following suggestions should help to eliminate or reduce this problem.

    1. If you have a variable speed saw, reduce the speed to 1/2 to 3/4 of high speed.

    2. If you do not have a variable speed saw, it will help to stack cut 2 or more layers of your material to keep better

    control of the workpiece.

    3. For cutting any thickness of material it is very beneficial to keep at least one hand, if not both, partially touching the

    table with your fingers for better control.

    4. Using a smaller blade with more teeth per inch helps to slow down how fast the blade is cutting. But keep in mind

    that if the blade is leaving burn marks you will need to slow the speed down or use a blade with less teeth per inch.

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    VEINING Veining is a simple technique that will bring a lifelike

    appearance to your project. The veins of a leaf or the folds

    of clothing will look more realistic when this technique is

    incorporated. To vein, simply saw all solid black lines as

    indicated on the pattern. Some areas of the pattern you will

    be able to vein by sawing inward from the outside edge, whilein other areas you will need to drill a tiny starter hole for the

    blade.

    AUXILIARY TABLE Most scrollsaws on the market today have an opening in

    the table around the blade that is much larger than what you

    really need. This often causes small and delicate fretwork to

    break off on the downward stroke of the blade. An easy solution

    is to add a wooden auxiliary table to the top of the metal table

    on your saw.

    To make an auxiliary table, choose a piece of 1/4 - 3/8 plywood

    similar to the size of your current saws table. If you choose, you can

    cut this plywood to the same shape as the metal table on your saw, or

    any shape or size you prefer. However, we do recommend that you make

    the table larger than what you think you will need for the size of the

    projects you will make in the future.

    Next, set the auxiliary table on top of the metal table. From the

    underside of the metal table, use a pencil to mark the location where

    the blade will feed through. Then turn the auxiliary table over and drill

    a 1/16 - 1/8 diameter hole, or slightly larger than the blade you willbe using.

    Finally, apply a couple of strips of double-sided carpet tape to the

    metal table on each side of the blade. Then, firmly press the auxiliary

    table onto the double-sided carpet tape, making sure that the blade is

    centered in the hole.

    FINISHING TECHNIQUES If youve made your project from hardwood, we recommend dipping your project in a dishpan type of container

    that contains a penetrating oil such as Watco, Tung, or others. After dipping, allow the excess oil to drain back into

    the pan and then follow the manufacturers instructions.

    If you have chosen to use plywood, such as Baltic Birch, you can use any of the wide variety of wood stains

    available on the market. We do, however, recommend sanding the surface thoroughly, in order for the plywood to

    accept the stain more evenly.

    As a final finish step, we highly recommend using a clear varathane type spray for a protective coating.

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    #P651

    #P651 - Mantel Clock

    Front & Back Support

    Front & Back

    Side

    Crest

    Roof

    Dial Underlay

    Dial

    Flower Overlay

    Flower Overlay

    Pendulum Bob

    Pendulum Rod

    Description

    A

    B

    C

    D

    E

    F

    G

    H

    I

    J

    K

    Item

    4

    1 ea

    2

    1

    2

    1

    1

    1

    1

    1

    1

    Qty Size

    1/4T x 6 5/8W x 10 5/8L

    1/4T x 7 3/8W x 10 1/4L

    1/4T x 6 1/8W x 9 7/8L

    1/4T x 6W x 12 1/4L

    1/4T x 4 1/2W x 4 7/8L

    1/8T x 5 3/4W x 5 3/4L

    1/8T x 5 1/4W x 5 1/4L1/16-1/8T x 1 1/4W x 1 1/4L

    1/16-1/8T x 1 1/2W x 1 3/4L

    1/16-1/8T x 1 3/4W x 1 3/4L

    1/16-1/8T x 3/16W x 5 1/2L

    #P651 - Assembly Instructions1. Select your material from a variety of hardwoods or solid core

    plywood.

    2. Measure each pattern piece and cut the work pieces to size accordingly.

    Sand as necessary.

    3. Make all pattern pieces by adhering the paper patterns to the work

    pieces with a repositionable spray adhesive. Cut the outer shapes and any

    interior designs. And drill where indicated.4. Remove all paper patterns. Sand where needed. The edges can be

    rounded by sanding or using a small roundover router bit if desired.

    5.Assemble by first attaching the Front and Back into the slots in the

    Sides, securing with glue. Next, slide the Front and Back Supports into

    place and secure with glue. Then, glue the Overlays into position. Now

    place the rubber washer onto the clock shaft and insert the pendulum

    clock movement into place behind the Front. Next, slide the Dial

    Underlay and Dial onto the clock shaft and secure in place with the brass

    washer and hex nut. Then attach the Roof, dowel, and Crest. Now glue

    the Pendulum Bob to the Pendulum Rod, and attach the sheet metal

    hanger as shown in the diagram. Finish as desired and insert the hands.

    3

    6

    12

    9

    A

    A

    AA

    B

    C

    C

    F

    G

    HI

    #P651 - Mantel Clock

    BED

    K

    J

    The Berry Basket Copyright 2001 All Rights Reserved

    www.greatamericanscrollsaw.com a division of The Berry Basket

    GREAT AMERICAN

    DOWNLOADABLE PATTERNS TM

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    #P651

    Flower Overlay (H)Stock 1/16 - 1/8 Overlay (I)

    Stock: 1/16 - 1/8

    Pendulum Bob (J)Stock 1/16 - 1/8

    Front & BackSupport (A)Stock: 1/4, cut 4

    Dashed line indicatesplacement of FlowerOverlay (H).

    Dashed line indicatesplacement of FlowerOverlay (I).

    The Berry Basket Copyright 2001

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    #P651

    Front & Back (B)Stock: 1/4, cut 1 each

    Small dashed linesindicate placement ofDial Overlay

    Note: Cut a 4 diameter holein the Back. This will allowyou to change the battery andset the time.

    Drill 5/16 hole forclock shaft.

    The Berry Basket Copyright 2001

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    #P651

    Side (C)Stock: 1/4, cut 2

    Front

    (A)(A)

    (B)(B)

    The Berry Basket Copyright 2001

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    #P651

    Diagram for Attaching Pendulum to Clock Movement

    Secure one 1/4 sideof the hanger to thetop front of thePendulum withcontact cement orsuper glue.

    2Pendulum

    Hook

    Form a hanger by bending a thinpiece of sheet metal 3/8W x 5/8Linto the following shape

    1

    1/41/4

    1/8

    Side view of PendulumClock Movement Assembly

    Clockmovement

    Hook

    Pendulum

    Front

    Insert the remaining1/4 side through

    the pendulum hookon the Clock

    Movement.

    3

    Hook

    Clockmovement

    Front

    Pendulum Rod (K)Stock: 1/16 - 1/8

    Recommended PendulumMovement - #C132Hands - #C137 or #C138

    Crest (D)Stock: 1/4. Left pattern piece.

    Roof(E

    )

    R

    3/8 diameter x 4 1/2long dowel

    Attach with glue and#18 x 5/8 wire brads.

    Pattern

    overlap

    line

    The Berry Basket Copyright 2001

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    Roof (E)Stock: 1/4, cut 2

    Front

    Top

    Back(A)

    Front(A)

    Attach withglue and#18 x 5/8wire brads.

    Roof(E)

    Pattern

    overlap

    line

    Crest (D)Stock: 1/4. Right pattern piece.

    #P651

    The Berry Basket Copyright 2001

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    #P651

    Dial (G)Stock 1/8Drill 5/16 hole for clock shaft.

    Dial Underlay (F)

    Stock 1/8

    Dashed line indicatesplacement of Dial (G).

    Drill 5/16 hole forclock shaft.

    The Berry Basket Copyright 2001

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    #P654 - Pendulum Clock13H. Order Movement #C130 &Hands #C139

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    GENERAL SCROLLSAW TIPS & TECHNIQUESThe following scrollsaw tips and techniques are intended to get you started and on your way to scrollsaw success.

    Not only will you find these techniques helpful in completing the this project, you will also find that they can be applied

    to many other scrollsaw projects as well.

    HARDWOODS VS PLYWOODS Selecting the type of material you will use is very important for the final outcome of your project. This project has

    been designed so that hardwoods, plywoods, or a combination can be used to create your work of art.

    Hardwoods have their advantages as well as their disadvantages. They come in a variety of species, colors and grain

    patterns, yet they are more time consuming requiring more sanding, are more likely to warp and are more expensive

    to use.

    Plywoods, on the other hand, are less expensive, require less sanding, and come in a variety of standard thicknesses.

    They also are less likely to develop cracks or warp. We do, however, recommend that you use a top grade plywood

    without voids, such as the Baltic and Finnish birches.

    SANDING For most projects, it is best to sand the work piece prior to applying the paper pattern and cutting the design. Once

    youve cut the design, and removed the paper pattern, it may be necessary to lightly sand any glue residue remaining,along with any fuzz on the bottom side.

    BLADE SELECTION There are many opinions pertaining to which blade to use with which type and thickness of material, as well as,

    with how intricate the design in the project is. The more time

    you put into scrolling, the more your choice of which blade to

    use will become personal preference. For the beginning

    scroller we make the following recommendations to get

    you started:

    USING THE PATTERNS Downloadable patterns give you the advantage of printing the patterns on your own printer at your own convenience.

    Be sure to download all of the file and save it to a disk or your harddrive according to your computer softwares

    instructions.

    Once you have printed the number of pattern pieces that you will need to complete your projects, you are ready

    to apply the pattern to your work pieces.

    Apply the repositionable spray adhesive as directed in the next section. If your project requires piecing 2 or more

    sheets of paper together to make the full-size pattern piece, simply follow the instructions below for accurate alignment.

    Blade Size Recommended

    #2/0 or #2

    #5 or #7

    #7 or #9

    Material Thickness

    1/16 - 1/4

    1/4 - 1/2

    1/2 - 3/4 or thicker

    Step 1Using a straightedge and a craft knife, cut on the dashed

    Pattern Overlap Lines to remove the excess paper.

    Step 2Next, align the sections and secure together with clear tape.Now, apply the repositionable spray adhesive to the backsideof the paper pattern as instructed in the next section.

    Cut onsolidlineforFrameonly.

    Frame &BackStock:1/8-1/4,cut1eachLeft pattern piece.

    Cut ondashed linefor Back

    Pattern

    overlap

    line Clear

    tape

    Craft knife

    Ruler

    Patternoverlapline

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    REPOSITIONABLE SPRAY ADHESIVEUsing a repositionable spray adhesive is the easiest and quickest way to transfer a pattern to your work piece after

    photo copying it. In a well ventilated area, lightly spray the backside of the paper pattern. Allow it to dry only until tacky

    - approximately 20 - 30 seconds. Then apply it to the work piece, smoothing any wrinkles if necessary.

    Two common problems that sometimes occur when using repositionable spray adhesive for the first time is applying

    the right amount onto the back of the pattern. Spraying too little may result in the pattern lifting off of the project before

    you have finished cutting. If this occurs, clear scotch tape can be used to secure the pattern back into position. On the

    other hand, spraying too much will make it difficult to remove the pattern, If this occurs, simply use a hand held hairdryer to heat the glue, which will loosen the pattern allowing it to be easily

    removed.

    DRILLING STARTER HOLES When drilling starter holes it is best to drill close to a corner, rather

    than in the middle of the waste areas, as it will take less time for the blade

    to reach the pattern line.

    STACK CUTTING Stack cutting is fairly simple to do and can save you a lot of time when

    you have 2 or more identical pieces to cut for a project. If you are fairly

    new to scrollsawing and stack cutting, we recommend cutting no more

    than a total thickness

    of 1/2 for best

    results.

    On projects with

    fairly simple shapes to cut out, 2 or 3 layers could be held together

    by double-sided tape, or by using spray glue on paper to sandwich

    between the work pieces.

    On more intricate projects we suggest using #18 wire nails or

    brads slightly longer than the total thickness of the stack you are

    cutting. Tack the nails into the waste areas you will cut out, along

    with a few around the outside of the project. If the nail has gone

    through the bottom of the work piece, use a hammer to tap it flush,

    or use coarse sandpaper to sand the points flush with the bottom

    of the work piece.

    If you are stack cutting hardwoods, do not tack the nail too close

    to the pattern line or it may cause the wood to split. Another option would be to predrill for the nails with a slightly

    smaller drill bit so the nail will fit snugly and hold the layers together securely.

    SAWING THIN WOODS Occasionally you may find it difficult to control your workpiece when cutting in thin hardwoods or plywoods. The

    following suggestions should help to eliminate or reduce this problem.

    1. If you have a variable speed saw, reduce the speed to 1/2 to 3/4 of high speed.

    2. If you do not have a variable speed saw, it will help to stack cut 2 or more layers of your material to keep better

    control of the workpiece.

    3. For cutting any thickness of material it is very beneficial to keep at least one hand, if not both, partially touching the

    table with your fingers for better control.

    4. Using a smaller blade with more teeth per inch helps to slow down how fast the blade is cutting. But keep in mind

    that if the blade is leaving burn marks you will need to slow the speed down or use a blade with less teeth per inch.

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    VEINING Veining is a simple technique that will bring a lifelike

    appearance to your project. The veins of a leaf or the folds

    of clothing will look more realistic when this technique is

    incorporated. To vein, simply saw all solid black lines as

    indicated on the pattern. Some areas of the pattern you will

    be able to vein by sawing inward from the outside edge, whilein other areas you will need to drill a tiny starter hole for the

    blade.

    AUXILIARY TABLE Most scrollsaws on the market today have an opening in

    the table around the blade that is much larger than what you

    really need. This often causes small and delicate fretwork to

    break off on the downward stroke of the blade. An easy solution

    is to add a wooden auxiliary table to the top of the metal table

    on your saw.

    To make an auxiliary table, choose a piece of 1/4 - 3/8 plywood

    similar to the size of your current saws table. If you choose, you can

    cut this plywood to the same shape as the metal table on your saw, or

    any shape or size you prefer. However, we do recommend that you make

    the table larger than what you think you will need for the size of the

    projects you will make in the future.

    Next, set the auxiliary table on top of the metal table. From the

    underside of the metal table, use a pencil to mark the location where

    the blade will feed through. Then turn the auxiliary table over and drill

    a 1/16 - 1/8 diameter hole, or slightly larger than the blade you willbe using.

    Finally, apply a couple of strips of double-sided carpet tape to the

    metal table on each side of the blade. Then, firmly press the auxiliary

    table onto the double-sided carpet tape, making sure that the blade is

    centered in the hole.

    FINISHING TECHNIQUES If youve made your project from hardwood, we recommend dipping your project in a dishpan type of container

    that contains a penetrating oil such as Watco, Tung, or others. After dipping, allow the excess oil to drain back into

    the pan and then follow the manufacturers instructions.

    If you have chosen to use plywood, such as Baltic Birch, you can use any of the wide variety of wood stains

    available on the market. We do, however, recommend sanding the surface thoroughly, in order for the plywood to

    accept the stain more evenly.

    As a final finish step, we highly recommend using a clear varathane type spray for a protective coating.

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    #P654

    Description item Qty SizeFrame

    Back

    Spacer

    Left Cloud

    Right Cloud

    Dial

    Leaves

    Cattails

    PendulumLeft Mountain

    Right Mountain

    A

    B

    C

    D

    E

    F

    G

    H

    IJ

    K

    1

    1

    2

    1

    1

    1

    2

    1

    11

    1

    1/8T x 10 5/8W x 13 3/4L

    1/4T x 9 3/4W x 11L

    1T x 5W x 11 1/8L

    1/16-1/8T x 1W x 2 1/2L

    1/16-1/8T x 1 1/8W x 2 1/2L

    1/16T x 6 1/4W x 6 1/4L

    1/16-1/8T x 3 3/8W x 3 3/8L

    1/16-1/8T x 4 1/4W x 9 1/4L

    1/4T x 3 3/8W x 5 3/4L1/16-1/8T x 3W x 5 5/8L

    1/16-1/8T x 2 5/8W x 5 3/8L

    #P654 - Fishermans Clock

    #P654 - Assembly Instructions1. Select your material from a variety of hardwoods or solid core

    plywood.

    2. Measure each pattern piece and cut the work pieces to size

    accordingly. Sand as necessary.

    3. Make all pattern pieces by adhering the paper patterns to the workpieces with a repositionable spray adhesive. Cut the outer shapes and

    any interior designs. And drill where indicated.

    4. Remove all paper patterns. Sand where needed. The edges can be

    rounded by sanding or using a small roundover router bit if desired.

    5.Assemble by first attaching the 2 Spacer halves to the Back with

    glue and #18 x 3/4 wire brads. Then attach the Frame. Now, attach

    any Figures into position on the Back. Next, attach the Dial and any

    Overlays to the Frame. Insert the pendulum movement and secure in

    place. And attach the Pendulum, and finish as desired.

    #P654 - Fishermans Clock

    DA

    B

    C

    E

    F

    G

    G

    H

    I

    J

    K

    The Berry Basket Copyright 2001 All Rights Reserved

    www.greatamericanscrollsaw.com a division of The Berry Basket

    GREAT AMERICAN

    DOWNLOADABLE PATTERNS TM

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    Dashedline

    indicates

    Spacer(C).

    Cutonoutsideand

    insidesolidlinesfor

    Frame(A)only.

    Fram

    e(A)&Back(B)

    Cut1each

    StockFrame(A):1/8

    StockBack(B):1/4

    Toppa

    tternpiece

    Cut

    onthissolidline

    forBack(B)only.

    Drill5/16holefor

    clockshaft.

    Patternoverlapline

    #P654

    The Berry Basket Copyright 2001

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    #P654

    Fram

    e(A)&Back(B)

    Cut1each

    StockFrame(A):1/8

    StockBack(B):1/4

    Bottom

    patternpiece

    Patternoverlapline

    The Berry Basket Copyright 2001

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    #P654

    Right Cloud (E)Stock: 1/16 - 1/8Spacer: 1/4, cut 1

    Left Cloud (D)Stock: 1/16 - 1/8

    Sp

    acer(C)

    Stock:1,cut2

    Dial (F)Stock: 1/16Drill 5/16 hole forclock shaft.

    The Berry Basket Copyright 2001

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    #P654

    Leaves (G)Stock: 1/16 - 1/8, cut 2Spacers: 1/8, cut 6

    Cattails(H)

    Stock:1/16-1/8

    The Berry Basket Copyright 2001

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    #P654

    Right Mountain (K)Stock: 1/16 - 1/8Spacers: 1/4, cut 2

    Left Mountain (J)Stock: 1/16 - 1/8Spacer: 1/4, cut 1

    Pendulum (I)Stock: 1/16 - 1/8

    Side view of PendulumClock Movement Assembly

    Clockmovement

    Hook

    Pendulum

    FrontDiagram for Attaching Pendulum toClock Movement

    Secure one 1/4 sideof the hanger to the

    top front of thePendulum withcontact cement orsuper glue.

    2Pendulum

    Hook

    Form a hanger by bending a thinpiece of sheet metal 3/8W x 5/8Linto the following shape

    1

    1/41/4

    1/8

    Hook

    Clockmovement

    FrontInsert the remaining 1/4side through the

    pendulum hook on theClock Movement.

    3

    RecommendedPendulum Movement - #C131Hands - #C139

    The Berry Basket Copyright 2001

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    #P785 - Duck Pendulum ClockBring nature indoors with our tranquil DuckPendulum Clock. Use contrasting woods foradded effect. Nearly 11 in diameter.

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    GENERAL SCROLLSAW TIPS & TECHNIQUESThe following scrollsaw tips and techniques are intended to get you started and on your way to scrollsaw success.

    Not only will you find these techniques helpful in completing the this project, you will also find that they can be applied

    to many other scrollsaw projects as well.

    HARDWOODS VS PLYWOODS Selecting the type of material you will use is very important for the final outcome of your project. This project has

    been designed so that hardwoods, plywoods, or a combination can be used to create your work of art.

    Hardwoods have their advantages as well as their disadvantages. They come in a variety of species, colors and grain

    patterns, yet they are more time consuming requiring more sanding, are more likely to warp and are more expensive

    to use.

    Plywoods, on the other hand, are less expensive, require less sanding, and come in a variety of standard thicknesses.

    They also are less likely to develop cracks or warp. We do, however, recommend that you use a top grade plywood

    without voids, such as the Baltic and Finnish birches.

    SANDING For most projects, it is best to sand the work piece prior to applying the paper pattern and cutting the design. Once

    youve cut the design, and removed the paper pattern, it may be necessary to lightly sand any glue residue remaining,along with any fuzz on the bottom side.

    BLADE SELECTION There are many opinions pertaining to which blade to use with which type and thickness of material, as well as,

    with how intricate the design in the project is. The more time

    you put into scrolling, the more your choice of which blade to

    use will become personal preference. For the beginning

    scroller we make the following recommendations to get

    you started:

    USING THE PATTERNS Downloadable patterns give you the advantage of printing the patterns on your own printer at your own convenience.

    Be sure to download all of the file and save it to a disk or your harddrive according to your computer softwares

    instructions.

    Once you have printed the number of pattern pieces that you will need to complete your projects, you are ready

    to apply the pattern to your work pieces.

    Apply the repositionable spray adhesive as directed in the next section. If your project requires piecing 2 or more

    sheets of paper together to make the full-size pattern piece, simply follow the instructions below for accurate alignment.

    Blade Size Recommended

    #2/0 or #2

    #5 or #7

    #7 or #9

    Material Thickness

    1/16 - 1/4

    1/4 - 1/2

    1/2 - 3/4 or thicker

    Step 1Using a straightedge and a craft knife, cut on the dashed

    Pattern Overlap Lines to remove the excess paper.

    Step 2Next, align the sections and secure together with clear tape.Now, apply the repositionable spray adhesive to the backsideof the paper pattern as instructed in the next section.

    Cut onsolidlineforFrameonly.

    Frame &BackStock:1/8-1/4,cut1eachLeft pattern piece.

    Cut ondashed linefor Back

    Pattern

    overlap

    line Clear

    tape

    Craft knife

    Ruler

    Patternoverlapline

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    REPOSITIONABLE SPRAY ADHESIVEUsing a repositionable spray adhesive is the easiest and quickest way to transfer a pattern to your work piece after

    photo copying it. In a well ventilated area, lightly spray the backside of the paper pattern. Allow it to dry only until tacky

    - approximately 20 - 30 seconds. Then apply it to the work piece, smoothing any wrinkles if necessary.

    Two common problems that sometimes occur when using repositionable spray adhesive for the first time is applying

    the right amount onto the back of the pattern. Spraying too little may result in the pattern lifting off of the project before

    you have finished cutting. If this occurs, clear scotch tape can be used to secure the pattern back into position. On the

    other hand, spraying too much will make it difficult to remove the pattern, If this occurs, simply use a hand held hairdryer to heat the glue, which will loosen the pattern allowing it to be easily

    removed.

    DRILLING STARTER HOLES When drilling starter holes it is best to drill close to a corner, rather

    than in the middle of the waste areas, as it will take less time for the blade

    to reach the pattern line.

    STACK CUTTING Stack cutting is fairly simple to do and can save you a lot of time when

    you have 2 or more identical pieces to cut for a project. If you are fairly

    new to scrollsawing and stack cutting, we recommend cutting no more

    than a total thickness

    of 1/2 for best

    results.

    On projects with

    fairly simple shapes to cut out, 2 or 3 layers could be held together

    by double-sided tape, or by using spray glue on paper to sandwich

    between the work pieces.

    On more intricate projects we suggest using #18 wire nails or

    brads slightly longer than the total thickness of the stack you are

    cutting. Tack the nails into the waste areas you will cut out, along

    with a few around the outside of the project. If the nail has gone

    through the bottom of the work piece, use a hammer to tap it flush,

    or use coarse sandpaper to sand the points flush with the bottom

    of the work piece.

    If you are stack cutting hardwoods, do not tack the nail too close

    to the pattern line or it may cause the wood to split. Another option would be to predrill for the nails with a slightly

    smaller drill bit so the nail will fit snugly and hold the layers together securely.

    SAWING THIN WOODS Occasionally you may find it difficult to control your workpiece when cutting in thin hardwoods or plywoods. The

    following suggestions should help to eliminate or reduce this problem.

    1. If you have a variable speed saw, reduce the speed to 1/2 to 3/4 of high speed.

    2. If you do not have a variable speed saw, it will help to stack cut 2 or more layers of your material to keep better

    control of the workpiece.

    3. For cutting any thickness of material it is very beneficial to keep at least one hand, if not both, partially touching the

    table with your fingers for better control.

    4. Using a smaller blade with more teeth per inch helps to slow down how fast the blade is cutting. But keep in mind

    that if the blade is leaving burn marks you will need to slow the speed down or use a blade with less teeth per inch.

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    VEINING Veining is a simple technique that will bring a lifelike

    appearance to your project. The veins of a leaf or the folds

    of clothing will look more realistic when this technique is

    incorporated. To vein, simply saw all solid black lines as

    indicated on the pattern. Some areas of the pattern you will

    be able to vein by sawing inward from the outside edge, whilein other areas you will need to drill a tiny starter hole for the

    blade.

    AUXILIARY TABLE Most scrollsaws on the market today have an opening in

    the table around the blade that is much larger than what you

    really need. This often causes small and delicate fretwork to

    break off on the downward stroke of the blade. An easy solution

    is to add a wooden auxiliary table to the top of the metal table

    on your saw.

    To make an auxiliary table, choose a piece of 1/4 - 3/8 plywood

    similar to the size of your current saws table. If you choose, you can

    cut this plywood to the same shape as the metal table on your saw, or

    any shape or size you prefer. However, we do recommend that you make

    the table larger than what you think you will need for the size of the

    projects you will make in the future.

    Next, set the auxiliary table on top of the metal table. From the

    underside of the metal table, use a pencil to mark the location where

    the blade will feed through. Then turn the auxiliary table over and drill

    a 1/16 - 1/8 diameter hole, or slightly larger than the blade you willbe using.

    Finally, apply a couple of strips of double-sided carpet tape to the

    metal table on each side of the blade. Then, firmly press the auxiliary

    table onto the double-sided carpet tape, making sure that the blade is

    centered in the hole.

    FINISHING TECHNIQUES If youve made your project from hardwood, we recommend dipping your project in a dishpan type of container

    that contains a penetrating oil such as Watco, Tung, or others. After dipping, allow the excess oil to drain back into

    the pan and then follow the manufacturers instructions.

    If you have chosen to use plywood, such as Baltic Birch, you can use any of the wide variety of wood stains

    available on the market. We do, however, recommend sanding the surface thoroughly, in order for the plywood to

    accept the stain more evenly.

    As a final finish step, we highly recommend using a clear varathane type spray for a protective coating.

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    #P785

    The Berry Basket Copyright 2004 All Rights Reserved

    www.greatamericanscrollsaw.com a division of The Berry Basket

    GREAT AMERICAN

    DOWNLOADABLE PATTERNS TM

    #P785 - Duck Pendulum Clock

    Clock Support

    Pendulum

    Overlay

    Frame

    Description

    A

    B

    C

    D

    item

    1

    1

    1

    1

    Qty Size

    1T x 3 1/2W x 3 3/4L

    1/16T x 4 3/4W x 9 1/8L

    1/16 - 1/4T x 7 3/8W x 7 3/8L

    1/4T x 10 1/4W x 10 1/4L

    Recommended PendulumMovement - #C131Hands - #C141

    #P785 - Assembly Instructions1. Select your material from a variety of hardwoods or solid core plywood.

    2. Measure each pattern piece and cut the work pieces to size accordingly. Sand as

    necessary.

    3. Make all pattern pieces by adhering the paper patterns to the work pieces with a

    repositionable spray adhesive. Cut the outer shapes and any interior designs. And

    drill where indicated.

    4. Remove all paper patterns. Sand where needed. The edges can be rounded by

    sanding or using a small roundover router bit if desired.

    5.Assemble by first attaching the Overlay to the Frame. Then attach the with

    glue. Insert the hand shaft of the clock movement through the rubber washer, and

    then insert the shaft through the backside of the clock assembly. Slide the brass

    washer onto the shaft and secure the clock movement into place with the brass hex

    nut, making sure the clock movement is positioned correctly. Next, attach the Clock

    Support into place. Then secure the sheet metal hanger onto the Pendulum, and

    insert into the hook on the clock movement. Finish as desired and attach the hands.

    Side view of PendulumClock Movement Assembly

    Clockmovement

    Hook

    Pendulum

    Front

    Diagram for Attaching Pendulum to Clock Movement

    Secure one 1/4 sideof the hanger to thetop front of thePendulum withcontact cement orsuper glue.

    2Pendulum

    Hook

    Form a hanger by bending a thinpiece of sheet metal 3/8W x 5/8Linto the following shape

    1

    1/41/4

    1/8

    Insert the remaining1/4 side through

    the pendulum hookon the Clock

    Movement.

    3

    Hook

    Clockmovement

    Front

    D

    A

    Backside view of Clock

    B

    #P785 - DuckPendulumClock

    C

    D

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    #P785

    Clock Support (A)Stock: 1. Secure to backsideof Frame (D) with glue andwire brads.

    Drill for hanging or attachhanger of your choice.

    Pendulum (B)Stock: 1/16

    The Berry Basket Copyright 2004

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    #P785

    Overlay (C)Stock: 1/16 - 1/4

    The Berry Basket Copyright 2004

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    Pattern

    overlap

    line

    Frame (D)Stock: 1/4Left pattern piece.

    #P785

    The Berry Basket Copyright 2004

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    Pattern

    overlap

    line

    Frame (D)Stock: 1/4Right pattern piece.