APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2004 08 2---_-'-ir / February / Corch *C04Volume 13, Number 2

03..FE.Contents:• The Tucson 2004 Gem Show: a full report by Lois Berger. PEARL• The emphasis on environmental protection in the Philippines.• Excerpts from PEARL BUYING GUIDE by Rende Newman, GG. WORLD• Burma: home of the world's biggest pearl (and graft).

The Jitteriiaticilial Pearli,tg.Joilrital· Special enclosure: Philippine Jazz CD with laminated insert.

TUCSON 2004

PEARLS HOLDING STRONG AND STEADY

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l i t i lThe 2004 Tucson Pearl Researchers: (from left, back row) Fuji Voll, Ren*e Newman, PhilipSchneider, Sarabeth Koeth, Barry Hartmann, Stuart Robertson; (from left, front row) SarahCanizarro, Gina Latendresse, Lois Berger, Eve Alfi116, Fred Ward, Maurice Alfill 6. Missing inaction: Gary Roskin, K.C. Bell. Photo © 2004 Fred Ward

e weren't able to attend mal, curmudgeonly self within a bird's-eye view of the continuingthe Tucson Gem Show reasonable amount of time. changes and nuances which arethis year as our intrepid Reports on pearling matters at taking place in the cultured pearl

editor had had to undergo open the Tucson venue from different industry... and which augur well forheart surgery in December (for sources have come our way, and the pearl's future.replacement of the aortic valve), we shall try to add them together We begin, as usual, with Loisand is- to this day- still recovering within appropriate pearl classifica- Berger's detailed annual overviewsomewhat slowly due to some tions. The rich variety of differing of cultured pearl availability at thepost-operative difficulties. Not to viewpoints should provide interest- Tucson event.fear: he should be back to his nor- ing reading, as well as an excellent "Tucson" to page 7

The International Pearting Journal

COMMENTARY Piracy in the South Atlanticishermen and other com- and lay their eggs. Turtles have

ur July/AugusUSeptember 2003 Fmunity members on tiny been entangled in the hooks andspecial edition issue featured a Ascension Island, one of lines and have come up the beachlengthy piece on "What's hap- the most important marine tur- to nest with hooks in their flesh.

pening to our oceans?", a report by the tle nesting sites in the Atlantic, Local volunteers patrol thePew Commission on the declining have been fighting to keep away beaches to locate and assistocean environment worldwide and itspotential effects on those who make pirate high-seas fishermen. affected animals.their livelihoods by working in or on our They are desperately trying Despite having no coastseas, rivers and lakes. to protect both their fishery guard or marine protection force,

And this issue contains a short resources and the giant green local fishermen, conservationistsarticle as a followup to our last issue's turtles, which swim 2,000 km and other community membersDVD on what Philippine pearl farmers from Brazil to lay their eggs. took to the sea to remove the ille-are doing to preserve their environ- At least two vessels, as yet gal gear.ment... plus an article on the govern-ment of Myanmar (Burma), its graft unidentified, moved into the Tara George, Conservationand its impact on- among other coastal waters of Ascension Officer for Ascension Islandthings- pearling. Island (a UK. Overseas Government, said «We could not

Finally, when we were in the Territory) in February 2004 ille- believe it when we wereMarshalls, we could not help but notice gally deploying mile upon mile of informed by local fishermen thatthe sellout by the local government long-lines with baited hooks these vessels were actually fish-allowing another country to essentially aimed at a profitable tuna catch. ing within a mile of the shore. Atake over the reins in Majuro and let itplunder a once-rich ocean bounty. They have been laying lines briefinspection ofone ofthe lines

Thus, it was no surprise that we as close as 100 meters from the confirmed our worst fears. In justhave taken to peeking in via the inter- shoreline, in the heart of the sec- one hundred meter stretch of thenet from time to time on matters that ond largest green turtle nesting line, there were three turtlescome out of a site called The Sma# colony in the Atlantic. entangled; one of them appeared/s/ands Voice, and we bring the follow- Besides the devastating on the brink of exhaustion. Weing article to your attention.

Please forgive us getting on the effect on wildlife, it is illegal to knew we had to take directsoapbox once again. Pearlers or not, carry out such fishing within 200 action."we must be constantly aware of what nautical miles of the land, unless Under the supervision ofdamage to our future these continuing licensed. Licensed fishing is only local police and with the backuppredations to our oceans are causing. allowed between the 12 and 200 of a radio-linked network of look-

nautical mile limit; these pirates outs from the Royal Air Forceare clearly operating illegally. posted around the island, small

It is now the peak of the vessels manned by local fisher-marine turtle nesting season men and other community mem-with thousands of adult green bers took to the sea to remove

Editor turtles having arrived to mate more than 10 miles of hooks and3>1 line, and releasing turtles, someof which had become severelyentangled in long portions oflines.

The pirate ships have main-K. Obuchi • President tained radio silence and have

R. Tbrrey • Editorevaded identification. Although

P. Grella • Production Supervisor

they have not deployed any morelines very close to land, they areundoubtedly still in the area

P. Brutcher • Production Manager stealing the resources.Paul Davis of the South

PEARL WORLD is published quarterly by Haggis House. ]Dc Ofrice: 5501 North Seventh Avenue, PMB331/ Phoenix, Arizona 85013-1775/USA.'Irlephone: XXX-(602) 678-5799. Facsimile: XXX- (602}678-6799. E·mai] Atlantic Section, Overseasaddress: priwrideaol,com. © 2004 PEARL WORLD LLC. Al rights reserved. Any reproduction or use, in whole Territories Department, Foreignor part. of editorial or graphic content in an, manner is prohibited without wrritten permission. One year sub-Acription: US$110 for North America, US$130 elsewhere For comments or opinions p!ease write, call or faxPEARL WORLD, attention Editor. -Pearl World. The International Pearling Journal- ia registered in the USPatent and Trademark Office **Turtles" to page 5

The International Pearling Journal -The problem with Burma

WEAPONS OF MASS DONATIONThe theme in Burma press dissent amongst the peo- Found in a Pinctada maxima

(Myanmar) is big - bigger - ple, as well as conscripting oyster on the seabed northwestbiggest. Biggest gems, forced labor to carry out the of Zadetgyi Island, the world's

biggest donations. work of the state. This includes largest donated nacreous pearlBurma's claim to the discov- portering for the army, building weighs 845 carats. The world

eries of the world's largest pearl, roads, military installations, famous 19th Century Hope pearlruby, sapphire, peridot and jade mining, and just about any weighs a mere 450 carats byhave become eye-boggling reali- forced labor needed. comparison. Both are blisterties, yet each of these spectacular When not consumed with pearls.gem finds was voluntarily donat- these principal tasks, the army Two days after the Burmeseed to the state. wages genocide against the coun- pearl's discovery, it was donated

Voluntarily? Leaders in try's ethnic minorities. to the state in a formal ceremonydemocracy should sit up and Accordingly, several interna- at the Ministry of Defense intake notice. tional governments imposed Rangoon. General Than Shwe

By late 1988, the Burmese sanctions, even encouraging personally attended to inspectmilitary junta was virtually their resident corporations to the pearl, saying: "In addition tobankrupt. Hungering after for- cease operations in Burma. the pearl's size, it is also a rare,eign currency to maintain their Pepsi and others went away; significant and quality gem, theillegitimate grip on power, Unocal may be next. Leaders in find of which is auspicious newsSLORC sold huge logging, fish- democracy should certainly fol- to the State and the people."ing, mining and other conces- low up on this. Here is more auspicioussions to multinational corpora- With a remarkably poor news for the state and the peo-tions, and even other countries, sense of timing, the junta then ple: at 329 carats, the world'sthus creating a lucrative income elected to whack the wholly- largest donated peridot is of out-stream. owned foreign companies operat- standing gem quality; the world's

The junta entered into a ing in Burma by revoking their largest donated ruby, a stagger-plenitude of joint ventures with import and export licenses. ing 21,450 carats in weight, ismany of these external interests, Even joint-venture partners, quite magnificent. And theopening the unbridled exploita- like those in Mandalay Brewery, world's largest donated sapphiretion of the natural resources of found themselves out in the cold. is a 63,000-carat colossus.Burma, amongst the richest in This subsequently chilled the While the value of thesethe world. enthusiasm of foreign investors. gems is significant, there is

Many of the ventures include As one might expect, these and more. At 3,000 tons, the world'sa state partner tantalizingly other actions once again largest donated jade dike is morecalled Union of Myanmar returned the country to the edge a monolith than gem.Economic Holdings. Burma's of bankruptcy, leaving the junta Covered with glitteringDirectorate of Defense in a desperate search for new green and violet colored serpen-Procurement, the importers of sources of revenue. tine crystal, the gem qualitymilitary weaponry for the army, Looking again to natural jadeite measures seventy feetholds forty percent. resources, General Than Shwe, long, sixteen feet wide, and thirty

Members of the armed Chairman of the State Peace and feet high. Imagine having thisforces, who coincidentally use the Development Council (SPDC ned puppy crated and delivered toweaponry, hold the other sixty SLORC), twisted a few arms- the state!percent. and even the spirit of donation in Calculating at a floor value

Major profits from these ven- Theraveda Buddhism- merely to of US$20 per kilo of jade, thetures pay for enlarging the army, finance his political survival. find is worth in excess of fiftythe lifeblood of the junta. They Fielding Hall noted in his million dollars.also pay for weapons from China, 1902 book The Soul ofthe People: The Dragon Jade and GemsPakistan, and North Korea. "The Burmese give in charity far Company Ltd. discovered theMinor profits line the pockets of more in proportion to their jade dike. The company is ownedgenerals in Rangoon. wealth than any other people." by the Pa-0 Peace Group (PPG,)

Burma has no external ene- Over a hundred years later, previously known as the Pa-0mies. Instead, the ever-increas- the wealth of Burmese gem char-ing military force is used to sup- ity has become simply awesome. "Burma" to page 4

The International Pearling Journal

"Burma" from page 3 the dissident Pa-0 Peoples bask in the light of the full moon.Liberation Organization (PPLO,) It was, after all, taken during the

National Organization (PNO.) noted: "We know what kind of night of the full moon of Waso.The PNO entered into a lucrative donation this is. The enemy is They were surprised by theceasefire deal with the junta in destroying our revolution with fact that the conch shell was1991 and now controls Special the economic opportunities." right turning, and that the ani-Region 6 in the southern Shan The spectacular jade dike mal weighed two hundred andState. was discovered forty feet under- eighty three pounds. The shell

After hearing of the jade ground on a site that was previ- was crame white in color withdike's discovery, PPG leader U ously explored. Massive tunnel- bright yellow markings. The fish-Aung Kham Hti declared: "It ing techniques executed by ermen estimated the age of theshould be donated to the state, forced labor were used to locate conch to be many hundreds ofand that the state, the whole peo- the gem. Now cut into slabs and years.

ple, and the generations to come transported to jewelry makers in Inside the conch was a roundshould own it as a historic gem." Rangoon, junta blood has begun cream colored pearl weighing

Later, he delightfully donat- to flow again. over one hundred carats. Thised it on behalf of the Pa-0 Peace Beyond these exploration, conch pearl is more than doubleGroup, saying: "Our group mining, and donation cycles, the weight of the previous recordbelieves that the world's largest rumors abound that the junta is holder, a 45-carat pink queenjade find is due to the goodwill secretly searching for a leg- conch pearl, now part of a jewel-and immense cetana ('will' or endary «magic" ruby, one that ry ensemble by Harry Winston.'volition') of state leaders. It is to always brings war victory to its Non-nacreous conch pearlsbe attributed to the correct eco- owners. are exceedingly rare, the averagenomic objectives of the state and One can imagine why. being one for every fifty thou-the achievement of national In the meantime, the state sand conches. World conch stocksreconsolidation." holds legal title over all land in are depleted due to over fishing,

He confidently added: "We Burma, along with its minerals, and several countries now con-have traditionally believed that oil, natural gas deposits, and trol fishing quotas or ban thedonation of a precious stone standing forests... except where taking of conch outright.brings good luck to the donor as it has relinquished that right. Some marine scientists con-well as the receiver. We assumed But if a «world's largest" is sider the conch familythat it is better to hand over the discovered anywhere in Burma, Strombidae to be functionallymassive jade dike to the state, you can be sure it's donation extinct. That's humanity for you.which already possesses the time. This Burmese pearl may be theworld's largest ruby, the world's The leadership in Rangoon last of the biggest.largest sapphire, the world's insists that the contributions are The fishermen quietly sentlargest peridot and the world's on a purely voluntary basis as the world's largest conch pearllargest pearl." part of Buddhist merit making. out of the country. Now it sits

At the donation ceremony, After all, everyone historical- securely in a vault, awaiting salejunta Lieutenant General Khin ly donates in Burma - don't they? by auction, never to become aNyunt presented U Aung Kham Well no, not everyone. One of weapon of mass donation.Hti with a certificate and a little Burma's world biggest gems True, the sale of the pearlhonorary medal. He then dutiful- finds escaped donation to the will affect the lives of only a fewly pointed out: "Everybody state. There is some good news fAmilies from a poor fishing vil-should be proud of the act of here after all. lage, but it won't be sold by dic-donation to the state (and) the When local fishermen trawl- tatorial tyrants to continue theirbenefits gained through working ing off the southern Burmese reign of terror against the peoplehard on the allotted plot of the coast reeled in their net, they of Burma.gems land." found a gigantic conch trapped Which reminds me, where

Some ethnic leaders believe inside. are the leaders in democracythe jade dike was donated by the The fact that a seabed when you really need them? +Pa-0 so that the junta will give dwelling conch was caught in athem sizable new business con- net that was far above the bot-tracts. The Pa-0 already has tom came as no surprise to theinterests outside mining, includ- fishermen, who are of Chinese Sources:ing agriculture and hotel con- ancestry. They believe an old REPost, plus www.myanmar.com;struction. Chinese legend about pearl-mak- www.irrawaddy.org; and www. myan-

Hkun Okker, Chairman of ers traveling to the surface to margemsiewelry.com.mm

The International Pearling Journal -"Turtles" from page 2 important areas. pirates.and Commonwealth Office, said Johnny Hobson, a member of "We may be able to deal with"Once we have details of the Ascension Island Council, said them when they are up close, butship's name, port of registry and «We are working towards a once they are more than just aphotograph, we shall pursue the brighter, sustainable future on few miles offshore, they are ablematter with the flag nation. this beautiful island. to act as they like." *

"We recognize that illegal «Environmentally sensitivefishing is a growing problem in tourism is growing. We simply Source: Ascension Island Pressthe South Atlantic and are in dis- cannot stand around idly and Re/ease, February 8th, 2004.cussion with other government allow these outside forces todepartments and non-govern- come in and steal our resources. Ed: If this isn't a carbon copy ofmental organizations about how «As seen by the events of the what is happening to other sitesto tackle it." recent weeks, the people of (particularly in the Pacific Ocean),

Ascension Island has a grow- Ascension are prepared to act then we'll be hornswoggled. Greeding economy in which eco- but need the support of UK and short-sightedness march on,tourism and sport fishing are two Government to deal with these unimpeded unless we bark.

SCANNING THE PEARL WORLD

JAPAN 38.63 million grams in 2002. the continued shrinking demandThe significant decline in in Japan for pearls, particularly

Demand for higher-end volume was attributable to a freshwater pearls cultivated inpearls went up in Japan in 2003; sharp decrease in imports from China.imports from China and French China, which follows Hong Kong Instability in prices was citedPolynesia went down while those as the second largest pearl sup- as one ofthe main reasons for thefrom Hong Kong and Australia plier by weight to the Japan mar- lack of interest among the pearlincreased. ket- accounting for over one trade in Japan. In value, China's

The estimated value of quarter of Japan's total pearl exports to Japan were down

Japan's pearl imports up to imports by weight. 16.6% to ¥559.27 million fromNovember 2003 was China's pearl exports to ¥670.3 million.similar to that recorded Meanwhile, Japan'sfor the corresponding JAPAN'S PEARL IMPORTS Polynesia declined in

imports from Frenchperiod in the previousyear. However the 1998 - JAN-NOV 2003 weight by over 10% todeclining volume indi- 6.32 million from 7.04

Yen in millions million grams. Thecated an improved 40,000 value also went downdemand for higher-endpearls. 36.513 14% to ¥8,457.45 mil-

35,198 lion from ¥9,840.93 mil-According to statis- 33A7135,000 - lion.tics compiled byJewelry Trade Center 30.973 "Imports ofIncorporated in Tokyo, 30,000

29,072 Tahitian pearls regis-Japan's overall pearl 27,825 tered a decrease as theimports from January trade showed concernto November 2003 were 25,000 l i l i, 1

over continued declin-estimated to be ¥27,828 1998 1999 2000 2001 2002 Jan-Nov the situation with

ing prices, similar tomillion. This represent- 2003ed a slight decline com- SoufcD. JTC incorporated Chinese freshwaterpared with the same pearls" an industryperiod in the previous year. Japan up to November 2003 source said.

In volume, the overall went down 17.7% to 8.82 million French Polynesia is theimports in this period were esti- grams from 10.71 million in largest pearl supplier to Japan,

mated to have decreased 13.6% 2002. An industry source saidto 33.37 million grams from the decline was attributable to "Scanning" to prige 6

The InternationalPearling Journal

"Scanning" from page 5 Hong Kong went up signifi- «Freshwater pearls are goodcantly by 21% to Y3,138.89 mil- materials for jewelry, giving

accounting for over 30% of the lion from ¥2,596.74 million. designers greater scope for creat-latter's total pearl imports. Volume, however, declined 8.6% ing different designs with the

For the whole of 2002, to 9.53 million grams from 10.43 wide range of colors and shapesimports of more pearls ofinferior million grams. This indicates available.quality from China were record- that Hong Kong's supply to «As the competition in fresh-ed. This was reflected by the fig- Japan for most of 2003 consisted water pearl jewelry in Japan isures: volume increased 20% to of better-quality categories com- not intense when compared to11.65 million grams while value pared with the previous year. other types of pearls, and we sawdropped over 50% to Y697.26 mil- After marked increases in more consumers appreciatinglion. both value and volume in 2002, freshwater pearl jewelry due to

In the case of French the Philippines declined sharply promotions mounted by well-Polynesia, both volume and by over 50% to Yl,004.02 million known brands, we decided to pro-value went up in 2002. Imports from ¥2,017.05 million. Volume duce jewelry as well," Mr.of Tahitian pearls increased dropped 77.2% to 658,730 grams Yakushi said.27.7% to Yll,260.86 million and from 2.89 million grams. The decision to shift itsvolume grew 14% to 8.04 million attention to jewelry manufactur-grams. -*- ing enabled the company to

The value of Japan's total attract a group of retailers aspearl imports from January to High-end freshwater pearl new customers.November 2003 when calculated jewelry supplierYakushi Pearl in In response to these retailers'in US. dollars went up 5.6% to Osaka, Japan, has been able to increasing need for unique jewel-US$237.81 million from expand sales in the domestic ry designs, Yakushi Pearl hasUS$225.13 million. market by broadening its prod- recently launched a scheme to

Japan's trading of pearls uct range and initiating a set of help develop tailor-made designs.with three of its top suppliers- new marketing strategies. The According to Mr. Yakushi, theAustralia, Indonesia and Hong company's proactive approach company prepares sketches ofKong- remained active for most has enabled the company to sus- jewelry settings and lets retailersof 2003. tain sales growth in the challeng- select the sizes and colors of

For the whole of 2002, ing market situation in Japan. pearls in accordance with theirexports from Hong Kong and 'The Japanese market has preferences.Indonesia remained stable in been changing a lot amid the "With this service retailersvalue compared with the previ- sluggish economy and intensify- do not need to buy huge quanti-ous year while Australia record- ing competition from overseas ties of pearls to create designs,ed a 7.3% decline. However, companies. Domestic companies thereby solving the problem ofimports from Hong Kong by no longer enjoy any advantages stocking and reducing their risk."weight increased sharply-by in the local market," said presi- To increase the popularity of42%- while the value remained dent Koji Yakushi. freshwater pearl jewelry amongsimilar... reflecting that Japan «While sorne companies Japanese consumers, the compa-imported more lower-end goods choose to compete by reducing ny established a jewelry brandfrom Hong Kong. prices, we focus on consolidating called "en-no-hana", featuring

Australia's exports of South our strength by innovating on designs in both classic and mod-Sea pearls to Japan in the first and diversifying the range of our ern styles, to present to cus-11 months of 2003 increased products to add value and by tomers the beauty of freshwater2.9% to Y7,524.88 million from introducing additional services pearls.Y7,312.24 million. Volume to better cater to customers' «The brisk sales resultsremained similar at 3.18 million needs." achieved by overseas jewelrygrams. Australia accounted for With a factory in Guangzhou brands have proven that a well-27% of Japan's total pearl in Guangdong Province in the known brand plus a well-orga-imports in value and 9.5% by southern part of China, the com- nized marketing strategy canweight. pany offers both loose freshwater still stimulate consumers to buy

Indonesia also registered a pearls and freshwater pearl jew- luxury items even during an eco-healthy growth for 2003. This elry. A majority of its loose pearls nomic downturn. That fact drovesupplier grew 25% in value to are supplied to leading jewelry us to set up a brand to promoteY5,922.86 million from Y4,738.33 brands all over the world, while our freshwater pearl jewelry col-million, and volume increased the company has allocated more lections," Mr. Yakushi said.31.7% to 3.16 million grams from resources to developing jewelry2.4 million grams. production in recent years. "Scanning" to page 13

The International Pearling Journal -Rende Newman's Fourth Edition

PEARL BUYING GUIDE ot long ago, we were delight- Oriental Pearls: Natural pearls on the color of its shell lip.

ed to receive in the mail found in oysters of the Persian South Sea pearls tend toRende Newman's new edition Gulf or those that look like pearls range from 9-19 mm, whereas

of her famous Pearl Buying Guide: found there (according to the USA akoya pearls usually range fromHow to evaluate, identify and select Federal Trade Commission). 1- 10 mm.pearls and pearl jewelry. *1\th sev- Sometimes this term is used toenty-seven new photos and a great designate either any natural salt- Black Pearls: Pearls of naturaldeal of content updating to reflect water pearl or else more specifi- color (not dyed) from the black-lipthe intricacies of today's modern cally, any natural saltwater pearl (Pinctada margaritifera) oyster inpearl market, this guide is a superb found in the West Asia Area, e.g. in the Western to Central Pacificintroduction to pearls in general for the Red Sea, the Persian Gulf or Ocean or from the La Paz pearlnewcomers to the pearl world, and the Gulf of Mannar off the west oyster (Pinctada mazatlanica) ora valuable reference tool for more coast of Sri Lanka. rainbow-lipped oyster (Pteria ster-advanced practitioners of the art. A more precise definition of na) in the Eastern Pacific between

It was a particularly opportune "Oriental pearl" is given by the Baja California and Peru.time to have received this new and respected pearl researcher, Koji Some people use the termimproved edition, as there are sev- Wada, in Pearls of th€ World (pg. -black pearl" to refer to any darkeral pearling controversies swirling 69): unatural pearls from one kind colored pearl, dyed or naturalabout (as you may have read about of sea-water pearl oyster called color.earlier in this issue)... and we shall the wing shell."extract relevant portions of Rende's Biwa Pearls: Freshwater pearlsopus for further enlightenment on Akoya Pearls: Saltwater pearls cultivated in Lake Biwa, Japan'sselect subjects. from the akoya oyster (Pinctada largest lake.

We begin with a section of her fucata martensii), which are usu- Sometimes other freshwaterbook that defines pearl types and ally cultured. These pearls are cultured pearls are called Biwasterminology. typically roundish, and their nat- in order to impress buyers. Lake

ural body colors normally range Biwa was one of the first freshwa-from light pink, to white, to yel- ter cult:uring sites and it has been

PEARL TERMINOLOGY lowish. noted for its high quality pearls.Even though they are often Because of pollution, production

called Japanese pearls, they can has come to a standstill.Technically the term «pearl" also be found in oysters outside

should only refer to a natural Japan. In fact, China has become Kasumiga tm Pearls: namedpearl. Nevertheless, cultured the major producer of akoya after Lake Kasumigara, north ofpearls are so common now and pearls less than 7 mm in size. Tokyo, where they are cultured innatural ones so rare that «pearl" Korea, Hong Kong and Sri Hyriopsis schlegetii x Hyriopsisnormally refers to a cultured Lanka are already culturing cumingii hybrid mussels.pearl (one exception is in certain pearls using the akoya oyster. Kasumiga pearls, which haveArab countries where cultured Currently, most Akoya pearls over also been generically calledpearls tend to be frowned upon. 7 mm are cultured in Japan. Kasumi pearls, were introduced toPearls there are generally consid- the market in the mid-1990's andered a special gift from God that South Sea Pearls: used some- are only available in limited quan-should be entirely a product of times as a general term signifying tities. These nucleated freshwaternature). any saltwater pearl found in the pearls range in size from 11-16

When shopping for pearls, you area extending from the Philip- mm and in color from purple tomay come across the term semi- pines and Indonesia down to pink to white to gold.cultured. It refers to imitation Australia and across to Frenchpearls. Many members of the Polynesia. More often than not, it BIue Pearls: Dark-colored pearlstrade consider it a deceptive term refers specifically to large white or found in oysters such as the akoyadesigned to trick buyers into yellow pearls cultured in the or silver-lip oysters. The color isthinking they are getting cultured Pinctada maxima oyster- a large due to foreign contaminants inpearls when they aren't. oyster found in the South Seas, the nacre or between the nacre

Pearls are further classified also called the silver-lip or yellow-into categories: lip (also gold-lip) oyster depending "Newman" to page 20

The International Pearling Journal

*'Newman"from page 19 The blister pearl is cultured mal term used by some dealers toby gluing against the inside ofthe designate maba pearls with a rim,

and shell bead nucleus unlike shell a half-bead nucleus (often of making them resemble a friedblack pearls whose color is an plastic or soapstone). After the egg. The term "blister mab6" isinherent characteristic of the mollusk has secreted nacre over also used.pearl nacre. (Hisada and the bead, the blister pearl is cut Technically, though, allKomatsu, Pearls of the World, from the shell; and the bead is assembled mab6 pearls originatepage 88 and Robert Webster, removed so the pearl can be as blister pearls and after theyGems, page 506). cleaned to prevent deterioration. are assembled, they are mab6

The remaining hole is filled pearls with a rim.Half Pearls: "Whole pearls that with a paste or wax (and some-have been ground or sawed on one times also a bead) and then cov- 'Rainbow pearls": A trade nameside, usually to remove blemishes" ered with a mother-of-pearl back- for pearls from the Western(as defined in The GIA Jeweter's ing. winged (rainbow-lipped) pearlManual). If the sawed pearl looks Mabd pearls are not as not as oyster (Pteria sterna), which istoo large to be a half pearl, it's durable as solid blister pearls. noted for its high luster and rain-called a three-quarter pearl. It can be hard to distinguish bow-like colors.

Half and three-quarter pearls between mabd, blister or half This oyster ranges naturallyare priced lower than whole pearls when they are mounted in off the eastern Pacific Coast frompearls of the same shape and jewelry. As a consequence, these California to Peru. Some are culti-quality. three terms often end up being vated as mab6s and whole pearls

Button- and acorn-shape used interchangeably. near Guaymas, Mexico.South-Sea pearls have a flattened Despite all the work involved "Rainbow pearls," which areside which can make them look in assembling mab6 pearls, they generically called «black pearls,"like a half or three-quarter pearls are relatively inexpensive for are found in a variety of colors:when mounted. their large size. This is partly lavender, pink, red, blue, green,

The term "half pearl" is some- because several can be grown in purple, silver, gold, black andtimes used to refer to blister one oyster and because they are brown with varying shades andpearls. grown in oysters that have reject- combinations. It's not unusual to

ed a whole nucleus or that are see three or four color variationsBlister Pearls: Natural or cul- judged unsuitable for producing on one pearl.tured pearls that grow attached to whole pearls. Whole cultured rainbowthe inner surface of the oyster or Also, any type of half pearl pearls range from 7 to about 12mussel shell. When cut from the will cost far less than if it were mm in diameter and have a goodshell, one side is left flat with no whole, no matter what type of oys- nacre thickness. Their naturalpearly coating. (Some people ter it is grown in. counterparts are found in sizesapply the term "blister" only to Most large mab6 assembled from seed to 30-carat pearls andnatural pearls of this type. pearls come from the silver-lip or range in price from $100 per carat

Cultured blister pearls are black-lip oysters, but technically to $2,000 per carat wholesale.not new. As far back as the 13th the term 'maba" should only refer Cultured rainbow pearls costCentury, the Chinese were placing to pearls cultivated in mab6 oys- less, with mab6s being the leastsmall lead images of the sitting ters (Pteria penguin). expensive.Buddha inside freshwater mus- The true mab6-oyster pearlssels against their shells. The are known for having a better lus- Seed pearls: Small, naturalresulting pearly buddhas were ter, color and iridescence than pearls which measure about twoeither removed and sold as good- pearls cultured in other oysters millimeters or less. They usuallyluck charms or else left attached and are, consequently, more valu- weigh less than 0.06 carat.to the shell and used as an orna- able. Most of those harvested aremental curiosity. 1/2 or 1/4 blister pearls. Keshi: Keshi is a general term

Tennessee is a mgjor source of If a salesperson claims that used by pearl traders for pearlscultured solid blister pearls. the jewelry you are buying is that grow accidentally in the softThese American blister pearls made with a maba-oyster pearl, tissue or the adductor muscle ofcome in a variety of shapes and have him or her write this on the cultured pearl-bearing mollusks.are marketed under the name of receipt. It's helpful for insurance Chien Lin, president of InterDomt. Their nacre is thicker than and appraisal purposes. World Trading, says that the termthat of maba pearls, making them Information on the culturing "keshi" started out referring to amore durable. of mab6 oysters can be found in a type of natural pearl in Japan,

write-up by Morimitsu but over time, the term becameMab6 Pearls: Assembled cul- Muramatsu in Pearls of the World. much more broadly used interna-tured blister pearls (pronouncedMAH-bay). «Mabd Blister Pearls": An infor- "Newman" to page 22

le

The International Pearling Journat -PEARL Updated with 77 new photos

BUYING GUIDE Rende Newman's popularPearl Buying Guide has been completely revised along with:• New color photographs of pearls, pearl jewelry, clasps and neck pieces.

H»„'10 inilwh™ tnt|fynd*cleMF,vds&.Pmul jewei · • New first chapter on "Pearl Price Factors in a Nutshell"+ Fourth Edition I Additional chapter entitled "Creating Unique Pearl Jewelry with Colored Gems"

• Tips on bridal pearls• More information on keshi pearls• Additional pearl types such as melo pearls, Kasumiga™ pearls, scallop pearls,Pteria sterna pearls, and faceted pearls

• Details:-, 4

Pearl Buying Guide, How to evaluate. identify and select pearts &pearl jewelry,'lid- Fourth Editionby Rende Newman,

-- -

Renae Newman GG International Jewelry Publications$19.95, pbk, ISBN 0-929975-35-9208 color & b/w photos, 156 pages, 7" x 9", Pub date: April 2004

Prni<e for the Pearl Buying Guide Table of Contents:"If you're thinking of investing in pearls, invest $20 first in 1 Pearl Price Factors in a Nutshell

the "Pead Buying Guide by Renee Newman. Even if you 2 Curious Facts About Pearlsalready own pearls, this book has good tips on care and great 3 Pearl Types & Shapesideas on different ways to wear pearls." Pearl Types. Pearls Produced by Snails. Judging Shape

San Jose Mercury News 4 Judging Luster & Nacre Thickness5 Judging Color

"With loads of photos to illustrate her points, Newman tells How Lighting Affects Pearl Color,readers how to check a pearl's luster, nacre, color, and flaws...a Pearls the Wedding Jewelgem-dandy guide to picking right-price pearls." What color is best for you?

Bosron Herald 6 Judging Surface Quality7 Size, Weight, & Length

" An interesting and easy-to-understand guide to buying, 8 Judging Makeevaluating, selectmg and caring forpearls and pearl jewelry. The 9 South Sea Pearls (White & Yellow)opening chapters point out common mistakes made when buying 10 Black Pearlspearls. Other chapters focus on evaluating pearl typeS and 11 Freshwater Pearlsshapes, luster. nacre thickness, color, flaws, size, and make. 12 Pearl TreatmentsAdditional chapters cite differences in South Sea, black, and 13 Imitation or Not?freshwater pearls as well as imitation, natural and cultured 14 Natural or Cultured?pearls. The closing chapters highlight the proper way to care for 15 Choosing the Clasppearls as well as creative ways to wear them. The many 16 Versatile Ways to Wear a Strand of Pearlsphotographs are valuable in illustrating the characteristics of and 17 Creating Unique Pearl Jewelry with Colored Gemsdifferences among pearls. Overall the guide is useful to all types 18 Caring for Your Pearlsof readers, from the professional jeweler to the average patron." 19 Finding a Good Buy

Library Journal

The Pearl Buying Guide isavailable at bookstores, jewelry Please rush copies of the Pearl Buying Guide to:supply stores. the GIA or by mnit. NameSend check or money order to:

AddressInternational JewelryPublications City/State/Zip

PO Box 13384 books X $22 (includes shipping) = $ total amount enclosedLos Angeles, CA 90013-0384

The International Pearling Journal

"Newman"from page 20 seed-sized to the size of a baby's Japanese akoya keshi arefist. becoming more and more difficult

To add another element of to find because of recent decreasestionally. confusion to the term «keshi", in Japanese akoya pearl produc-

Having grown up in the pearl Chinese reborn freshwater pearls tion, but some other types of keshiindustry in Kobe, Japan, Lin had (Zai Sheng Zhu in Mandarin) are becoming more available duethe opportunity to meet many old- came into the picture. A reborn to the increase in overall produc-generation pearl traders. They told pearl is grown out of the pearl tion of freshwater pearls andhim the term "keshi" was initially sack of a mussel in which a pearl black, white and yellow South Seaused to refer to natural seed pearls was carefully removed at harvest pearls.found when harvesting wild akoya so as to not kill the mussel. Akoya keshi are sent for pro-oysters. Another pearl will grow out of cessing to countries with low labor

Since the tiny natural pearls a pearl sack, after healing, with- costs because the majority ofresembled poppy seeds, they called out another implantation of a akoya keshi are very small or thinthem keshi, which means .poppy" mantle or tissue. (This tissue is and thus have smaller-than-usualin Japanese. Lin has verified this originally necessary to initiate the holes that must be drilled by handusage of the term with a specialist virgin grafting to stimulate pearl without using any power tools.at the Mikimoto Pearl Museum in nacre formation). Some people call In summary the termJapan. these "born again" pearls. «keshi has been used to refer to

After the Japanese started Freshwater reborn pearls are five different types of pearls. Theyculturing akoya pearls, the term not new to the market. This cate- are:"keshi" was also used for the by- gory of pearls had been availableproducts of akoya cultivation that from Biwa Lake pearl farms in 1. Natural seed pearls. Thedid not contain a bead nucleus. Japan when Biwa pearls were still term "keshi" was used for theseThese form from nacre secretion in production. (Actual pearl culti- pearls before cultured pearlsaround microorganisms or shell vation in Biwa Lake faded out in ever existed.particles that enter the pearl dur- the late 1980's, leaving very fewing pearl nucleation. farmers still cultivating on a 2. Pearls that form as by-

The nacre may also be secret- small scale). products of the Japaneseed around detached fragments of At that time, Biwa pearl akoya pearl oyster cultur-the mantle inserted with the pearl traders did not use the terin ing process from nacre secre-nuclei (mantle is a membranous "keshi" for reborn pearls; they tion around microorganisms ortissue that secretes nacre and simply called them «Biwa pearls", shell particles that enter thelines the inner shell surface of the general term for freshwater pearl during pearl nucleation.mollusks. It's inserted with the pearls produced at Lake Biwa. The nacre may also be secretedpearl bead nucleus to help stimu- Some traders refer to Chinese around detached fragments oflate nacre formation). reborn pearls as #natural pearls" mantle tissue inserted with the

Mantle tissue keshi have also or«Biwa pearls", but both terms pearl nuclei. The Akoya oysterbeen called "saibo (tissue) keshi", are wrongfully used. has only one grafting and onebut most traders just call them Reborn pearls are not natural harvest of cultured pearls andkeshi. Akoya keshi pearls can pearls because they are cultivat- keshi.range from small "seed-sized" to ed, and "Biwa pearl" is a generalskinny pearls as long as 14 mm. term for freshwater pearls out of 3. Pearls that form as by-

The term became more confus- Lake Biwa in Japan. products of the South Seaing when freshwater pearls and Most of the Chinese freshwa- and black pearl oyster cul-South Sea pearls from the silver- ter pearl cultivation techniques turing process. These oystersand black-lipped oysters entered came from Japanese pearl farm- can have up to two re-seedingsthe market. ers, so too the South Sea pearl cul- of nuclei, and thus produce up

Keshi from South Sea pearl tivation techniques of the black- to three pearls during the oys-oysters are generally much larger and silver/gold-lipped pearl oys- ter's life cycle. Keshi pearls canin size than akoya pearls because ters. be found in all three harvests.of the size of the mother of pearl Chien Lin prefers to refer toand speed of the nacre formation. these reborn pearls as «keshi-type 4. Tiny seed-like pearls thatEven though South Sea keshi sel- cultured freshwater pearls" form as by-products of thedom look like poppy seeds or tiny because the nature of the reborn freshwater pearl culturingpearls, the term "keshi"is used to pearls is different from that of process from microorganismsrefer to these by-products of South other keshi pearls. Reborn pearls or particles of shell or mud.Sea oysters. are intentionally created while These are found in the first or

There is a large range of sizes keshi pearls are created by acci-for South Sea keshi- from small dent. "Newman" to page 23

The International Pearling Journal -"Newman"from page 22 No matter what their size, in the great Conch (Strombus

abalone pearls are rare. Wes gigas), a large marine snail foundRankin, a dealer who specializes throughout the Caribbean.second harvest of freshwater in abalone pearls, estimates that Gemologists consider these

pearl mussels. the odds of finding a natural pearl «pearls" to be technically a cal-of any size or shape in an abalone careous concretion because their5. Chinese reborn freshwater is one in 50,000. formation is not concentric layerspearls, which are found in the Abalone blister pearls are of nacre. They have a porcelain-second harvest. These are being successfully cultivated, but like surface.keshi-type pearls but not true there have been problems cultur- The most valued conch pearls

keshi because they're inten- ing whole abalone pearls. Abalone are symmetrical and have a dis-tionally cultivated-not formed blood does not coagulate, so when tinct flame-like pattern and aaccidentally. Nevertheless, a whole pearl nucleus is surgical- strong pink or peach colonthey're sometimes sold askeshi by dealers. ly implanted into the body of the Because of the rarity of the

abalone, it tends to bleed to death. conch pearl, even small, pale,No surgical cutting is irregular ones can retail for overBecause of the confusing use

of the term «keshi" and the fact required to produce cultured blis- $500 per carat. Better qualityter pearls. A nucleus (usually a conch pearls may sell for overthat their origin cannot be proved, half-spherical plastic bead) is sim- $2,000 per carat and tend to belabs such as The GIA Gem Trade ply cemented to the inside of the most appreciated by EuropeansLab don't identify keshi on their abalone shell, which the abalone and Arabs.lab reports. They simply call them later covers with nacre. Non-nacreous conch pearlscultured pearls. After a blister pearl is har- are exceedingly rare, the averagevested, the nucleus is removed, being one for every fifty thousandAbalone pearls: Even though the hollow area is filled with an conches. World conch stocks arethe abalone is not an oyster or artificial substance, and a hard depleted because of overfishing,mussel, the colorful nacreous backing is placed over it. It is then and several countries now controlgems it occasionally produces are sold as a cultured abalone mab6 fishing quotas or ban the taking ofconsidered to be pearls. This is

because they consist of many con- pearl. conch outright.centric layers ofnacre. Technicallythe abalone is classified as a large Scallop «Pearls": Natural Melo Pearls: These are formedsnail of the genus Haliotis. 'pearls" from the scallop inside sea snails called bailer

Abalone pearls are found in Nodipecten Subnodosus. Some shells, melon shells or boat shellsabalone off the coast of California, people call the "lion's paw pearls" (nieto melo), which are found inOregon, Alaska, Mexico, Japan, because they come from a scallop the South China Sea and offKorea, South Mrica, Australia, whose shell resembles a lion's Singapore and Malaysia.and New Zealand. (New Zealand paw. Like conch .pearls", they'reabalone mabe pearls are some- Until the year 2000, no one in non-nacreous, extremely rare and

times just called Paua mabi the gem industry had ever seen a available only as natural pearls.

pearls because they are from the natural pearl from this scallop. Melo "pearls" are usually ovalPaua abalone). Scallop «pearls", which are or round and come in orange, yel-

Abalone pearls usually have found off the coast of California, low or brownish colors with a

unique baroque shapes which are range in colors from white to deep wavy pattern.sought after by designers, and royal purple with varying shades They're typically very large,their colors may be any combina- of oranges, pinks and plums. weighing up to over 200 carats.*

tion or shade of green, blue, pink, They are non-nacreous with a ©2004 by International Jewelry Publicationspurple, silver, or on rare occasions mosaic pattern that has a flashcream white. Blue and pink colors effect similar to the flame-lakeare especially appreciated. pattern on a conch and melo Ed: We thank Rende for her

Fine-quality abalone pearls pearl. courtesy in providing us with thehave an almost metallic-like lus- These latter two «pearls", new edition of the Pearl Buyingter and may vary in price from however, are found in univalve Guide, and for allowing us to quote$200 to $2,000 and higher per snails instead of in a bivalve scal- from portions of it.

carat depending on size and qual- lop. Scallop pearls range in price This book is available at book-

ity. Their size can range from seed from $50 to $1,000 per carat stores, jewelry supply stores, the

size to - 685 carats, the world's wholesale.GIA, or by mail from InternationalJewelry Publications, RO. Boxlargest abalone pearl. It's in the 13384, Los Angeles, California,

personal collection of K.C. Bell Conch Upearls": Also called 90013-0384, USA, for $22 (U.S.and is listed in the Guinness Book "pink pearls"- though many are addresses) or $19.95 plus shippingof Records. brownish or white- they are found for other locales.

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