April / May / June 2007 0Volume 16, Number 2

Contents:• Golay Pearl Overview of pearl production by volume, value• Unusuol abalone pearls •The world's largest melo melo PEARL• Identifying Japan's Kasumigaura pearls• An incredible quahog pearl find • GIA Symposium redux WORLD• A pearl farmer's entreprenurial adventure• Tucson 2007 pearl report The 1 12 terlitifi<,11{11 Pearling .Joitrni,1

The Sunrise melo melo.See page 14.

From dream

9eto reality: the f

_, adventure- of building a

pearl farm.See page 15. ; 1.,

e

Quahogpearls.

See page 12.

Kasumigaura pearls. See page 25. Unusual abalone pearls. See page 4.

The International PeartinN Journal

GIA SYMPOSIUM REDUX oy! Did we get an eyeful from ence, which your «source" deemed who are willing to «look outside

one reader over the article on to be "O.K.- even fine" was more the box".the GIA Symposium inthelast scientific, and quite frankly as of There is more to being in the

issue. Here is his letter number one: no use or interest to me, therefore jewelry business than just jewel-I didn't attend them. This cer- ry. Had you attended any of these

 have just finished reading tainly does not mean that they lectures I am sure you would agreeyour January, February, and were not worthwhile lectures, that there was something for ev-March issue of Pearl World just topics that would not benefit eryone to benefit from, regardless

and felt I must tell you how dis- my company, or the way that I do of your «role" in the industry.appointed I was in your review of business. Therefore, I chose not to In addition, you and yourthe GIA Symposium that recently attend this portion of the event, «source" also voice complaintstook place in San Diego. It was without license to throw stabbing about Madeline Albright, theextremely one sided, bordering on remarks to those who did benefit former US. Secretary of State,ignorant, especially coming from from this educational experience. speaking at the opening session.someone who DID NOT attend On the, contrary, the Interna- What better person to open athe conference. I believe this to be tional Gemological Symposium session for the jewelry industryirresponsible journalism on your had a surplus of topics that were than someone with the practicalpart to write and publish an arti- of interest to me as well us to knowledge to address the chal-cle about such an important event many others who attended this lenges of globalization and for-in our industry, on the opinion of conference. There were a variety eign relations?one individual, who obviously had of speakers and topics, from Re- She did not present any politi-his own agenda for participating inventing Your Business, Luxury calagenda. Shesharedhertravelsin this venue. Retailing, and an expert's outlook and experiences with trade nego-

Your review did not in any on the changes in the diamond tiations and foreign relations, anway reflect the actual event. From industry to listening to a world area in which the entire industrythe first line to the last line of the renowned doctor address some can benefit from her knowledgepiece you wrote, you paint a very philosophical aspects of life. in this rapidly changing world.negative picture of an experience What a fabulous opportunity There is more to life in the jew-which benefited the many differ- it was to listen to these world elry business than just gems!ent sects within the jewelry in- famous experts and executives The event took place at adustry. share their expertise and knowl- very nice location, but it is not

Not every speaker or topic edge with us. I think the sessions my recollection that anyone waspresented was effective for every were actually very well planned required to stay there, or partici-person in attendance, nor should and organized by separating the pate in any event they chose notit be. In fact, the first two days, ultra scientific seminars from the to. In a city the size of San Diego,the Gemological Research Confer- non-scientific semnars, for those I am quite sure it would he fairly

simple to locate accommodationsthat fit the profile anyone was

O'm:50 K. Obuchi • President looking for, both financially as419.1. well as socially.

PEARL R. Torrey • Editor Personally I was quite satis-fied; not only with the host hotel,WORLD P. Grella • Production Supervisor but with the many meals and re-

DK AW·m#MA retirrii,i  3*0*0 P. Brutcher • Production Manager freshments that were providedfree of charge to the event attend-

PEARL WORLD is published quarterly by Pearl World LLC. ADDRESS: 302 WEST KAI£R DRIVE /PHOENIX ARIZONA 85021-724302 / USA. Telephone: XXX-(602) 678-5799. Facsimile: XXX- (602) 678-6799. ees. In fact, a minimal amount ofFrmail address. trd 1010@qwest.net © 2007 PEARL WORLD LLC. Al! rights reserved. Any reproduction or use, money was spent other than thein whole or part, of editorial or graphic content in any manner is prohibited without written permission. Oneyear subscription: US$130 for North America, US$150 elsewhere. For comments or opinions, please writz, call or cost of the room itself!fax PEARL WORLD, attention Editor. "Pearl World, The International Pearling Journal" is registered in theU.S. Patent and Trademark Office. On a final note, I cannot be-

The International Pearling Journal <

lieve you had the tenacity to even of time and money in their per- imparted wisdom of the pearlsuggest that the line up [sic] of sonal opinions, in addition to being segment lectures at the GIAthe speakers was in any way in- "pretty flagrant self promotion" for Symposium, let us reproducefluenced by monetary donations. the sponsoring organization (as some extracts from the pearl pre-To my native language, you have one put it). sentations at the symposium asa lot of'chutzpa" to insult the in- The "one individual" you referred reported in the January issue oftegrity ofthose who spoke; as well to does not and never has had an Jewellery News Asia... and youas those who were there to listen anti-GIA agenda. In fact, this indi- (presumably, primarily interestedto our fellow colleagues and learn vidual expended considerable time in pearls) may judge for yourselffrom their experiences. and money to attend from over- whether it was would have been

In addition, I think you owe seas, and I personally felt he or she worth the $1,700 it cost to signan apology to every jeweler in the had the right to express his or her up to attend the conference. Thatcountry for your callous remarks feelings which mirrored those of is why the letter writer was rightmade about the «... jewelers who many others. As for Mrs. Albright, on one thing (about me not at-had an average level of knowl- many felt that hers was more of a tending, nor even wanting to).edge and were probably just hap- book signing and selling promotionpy to be in a big hotel" were not than of any other great value.only rude but insulting and com- As I said, most of the remarks Gemological Symposium,

t the *th International

pletely unnecessary. Your source you attributed to me were not mine, organized by the Gem-must view himself as a very "im- and therefore I do not feel any ological Institute of America inportant" person with a «better apology to anyone is merited. In August 2006, the pearl speak-than average" level of knowledge, ·the interest of fair and open report- ers were: Nicholas Paspaley,to speak ofour brethren in the in- ing, I intend to reproduce your let- Executiue Chairman of Pas-dustry with such condescending ter in the next issue, while assuring paley Pearling Co. Pty. Ltd. ingibberish. you that your strongly expressed Darwin, Australia; Robert Wan,

He implies that the «averagf views are the first (and so far only) Chairman of Tahiti Perles injeweler" is some kind of second to defend this confab; not one other Papeete, French Polynesia; Joelclass citizen who just came from contact seems to have agreed with Schechter, President and Chieftheir tent in the woods to stay in your stance. Executiue Officer of Honora In-a hotel for the first time! In ad- dustries in New York; Meyer

' dition he implies the 'jeweler" is his incurred yet another Ho/7>nan, Executive Vice Presi-not smart enough to benefit from |blast from the same source. dent and Chief Operating Officerthe program, but just came there We shan't reproduce the fol- ofMikimoto (America) Co. Ltd. into socialize. lowup letter as it was even more New York; and Kenneth Scarrat,

Before printing remarks such vitriolic (You continue to shirk re- Director of GIA Research (Thai-as these in the future, you might sponsibility /br the negatiuity and land) in Bangkok.think about who it is that sub- 0/Tcolor remarks and then direct- The following are extracts ofscribes to your newsletten Prob- ly continues to accuse me of being their GIA symposium reports car-ably not the brightest idea to bite so nasty and derogatory). ried in the Fail 2006 edition ofthe hand that feeds you! Over the years we have re- Gems & Gemology.

ceived our share ofirate responsey reply to this diatribe was from readers, some of it earned... Nicholas Paspaleypretty blunt: 7 must tell as we endeavor to «tell it the wayyou that virtually none of it is" in Pearl World (and not the

the reportage was generated by wayvestedinterestsprefertohear the cultured pearl in-me (other than the suggestion that it). This is exactly why quite a few dustry has undergone

ver the last 50 years,

the GIA could well replicate Pear/s subscribers have appreciated the a significant transformation.'94 on page 2: after all, it's been blunt stance we have maintained It has moved from a period whenten years and the pearl segment over almost 17 years... and why Japanese and, later, South Seaof the jewelry market is far bigger we intend to continue doing so. cultured pearls were effectivelyand more important than it was a One must remind oneself that the only cultured pearls in thedecade ago). To almost a person, many in the pearl business have marketplace to the situationeveryone we spoke to thought the their own particular agendas.symposium a monumental waste As to the worth, value and "GIA Symposium" to page 30

The Internationat Pearling Journat.

UNUSUAL ABALONE PEARLSby Dn Grahame Brown many years seem to have caused blister pearls and less commonlyAlbany Creek, Queensland the abalone to distort in very in- in the gonad, body and mantle of

teresting ways. Mainly the shell this gastropod. References suchhas become excessively large and as http:/ /www.sfheart. com/aba-

ABSTRACT heavy. When broken open the lonepearl.html suggests that a'pearls' are enclosed within." fine large pearl over 15 mm is

Individual small solid na- He also revealed that all found in a low estimate ofone percreous pearls and aggregates shells had been found in a con- five hundred thousand to a moreof small nacreous pearls recov- centrated area on a rocky Wel- probable estimate ofone pearl perered from the thickened parasite lington, New Zealand beach. The nine hundred thousand animals.channelled shells of Haliotis iris, area probably spans about 100- Reasons for rarity are that largethe New Zealand paua shell, are 200 meters. All of the unusual pearls require approximatelydescribed and their structural shells were found sometime dur- eight to ten years to form. Sincefeatures and relationships to the ing and after June along this animals are fished commerciallyshells in which they formed are stretch- after a big storm blew for meat when they are four orcharacterized by X-radiography. through. Ninety per cent of sam- five years old, sufficient time hasA tentative hypothesis for the for- ples were found washed up on not allowed pearl formation.mation of these unique pearls is land; but some were been foundproposed. Expert informed com- in the shallows. He was sure that THE HOST CONCRETIONSment on the ·possible mode of for- there are more in this small area;mation of these pearls would be but having searched surrounding Figure 1 illustrates a typi-welcomed. beaches with not a single find, cal 'nest' of selection of nacreous

he was unsure as to the cause of pear14ike concretions that areINTRODUCTION these unusual pearl containing located within the shell of their

concretions. host abalone.Courtesy of Mr. Lou Hill of Abalone pearls are considered Individual pearls are hand-

Wellington, New Zealand, the au- to be rare, occurring commonly as removed from these 'nests' andthor has had the opportunity ofexamining some small, solid aba-

9...lone pearls that were manuallyextracted from masses within theshells of Hatiotos iris, the New

In describing the occurrenceZealand paua shell.

of these pearls, Mn Hill stated:"This formation [aggregate of < - , - -,-,»., . J - - ir

pearls] was found within the actu-41114 , I =>, .0152 - . , ,al wall of the abalone shell. Even 2 2. 4 . ...r *r - -4' r

though it contains some amaz- - 4$, /ljing colors (pinks, greens, blues, ..i. :4 9, Apurples etc) which are difficult to r L  T*I 1 see in these photos, there is a fine 48 ' : h ' ' ...i .N:'11,layer of semi-transparent brown[conchiolin] which still requires +9*removal to expose the "pearl" for- Y  #t :.mation below.

There are various unique en-vironmental conditions at the site 919@where this formation was foundand a combination of these over Fig. 1. Section of a Hiris shell that contains a 'nest' of small abalone pearls.

The Internationat Pearting Journal  

they were then tumble-polished Once these pearls were sub- SEEKING AN EXPLANATIONto remove adherent layers of ject to direct X-ray examinationbrownish organic conchiolin (Fig. 4) it was soon revealed that Attempts at obtaining expertfrom their external surfaces. they were solid pearls that were opinions with respect to how andThen, they closely resemble formed from concentric lamel- why these pearls formed withinsmall rounded to baroque aba- lae of nacre. These pearls did not the shell of the abalone havelone pearls (Fig. 2) have a central cavity as is typi- been mostly unsuccessful. The

cal of pearls recovered general consensus ofopinion sug-either from within the gests that the likely culprit could

 7 mantle of damage its soft tissue body.

gonad or be an unspecified shell boringfrom the polychaete worm that enters theperipheral shell of the abalone but does not

the abalo- With respect to the Newne. Inter- Zealand H. iris, http: / /www.an-estingly, nelida.net / nz /Polychaeta / Shell-one of the sPoly/ NZShellsPolychaeta.him

suggests: «Polychaete shell bor-ers mostly are Boccardia, Poly-dora, and Dipolydora species of

Fig. 2. Mixture of darker (LHS) and lighter

the family Spionioice, belongingto the Polydora-group of species,

color abalone pearls (RHS) recovered often referred to as the poly-from 'nests' within H iris shell. dorids. The commonest shell bor-

er is the native Boccardia knoxi,The pearls are only small     which bores deep into shell, also

in size, weighing from 0.02 to 1 protecting itself in a thin parch-gram; but they do display the ment-like tube lining. Paradoxi-typical range ofcolors ofthis spe- cally, it seems well adapted tocies of abalone. Contamination of larger pearls illustrated in fig- New Zealand molluscs, would notthe nacreous external surfaces of ure 2 LHS was formed from the normally penetrate the inner sur-these pearls by brownish conchi- intergrowth of several smallerolin was relatively common and pearls, as illustrated (arrowed) "NZ abalone" to page 6on some pearls this contamina- in figure 4.tion was quite extensive. Largerpearls appeared to be formed bythe intergrowth of numbers ofsmaller pearls (Fig. 3).

- 14 .

1Fig. 3. A large intergrown pearl Fig. 4. X-radiographs of some of the abalone pearls

from the shell of H Ms. illustrated in figure 2.

The Internationcd Pearling Journal

"NZ abalone" from page 5 cultured abalone at several sea- contain 'nests' of pearls withinbased facilities in southern Tas- their shells.

face of shells, and is probably by mania, Australia (Leonart et al. A paired set of photographicitself harmless in thickened mol- 2003b)." and X-radiographic images theluscs such as Haliotis and Ostrea Supporting evidence for a same shell fragment (Figs 6)species". possible role of some shell-bor- clearly reveals a close relation-

Another possible clue to the ing parasite in this unique pearl- ship between the radiolucent lin-possible mode of formation of producing process was obtained ear channels bored into the shellthese pearl-containing aggrega- by examining the in situ pearls by the unknown polychaete andtions was found on http: / /www. within the shell (Fig. 5) and also the radiopaque pearls that are 10-pac.dfo-mpo.gc.ca / sci / shelldis / by X-radiography of shells that cated within the shell fragment.pages / sbbab_e.htm: "Most in-festations are innocuous and are 41.- 16usually of low intensity with poly-chaete burrows being confined tothe shell. However, in southern »istJapan, the flesh weight of H. di-uersicolor aquatilis decreased .1,

significantly when infested with     _-  , d Emore than ten Polydora sp. per ULF.619shell (]Kojima and Imajima, SPY./JI.11982).

In South Africa, Polydora C-i &.4 NT<.spp. occur in high numbers on h >1  4, \ I.some farms and cause severe

  -, 11&   4shell damage and stress to someH. midae by penetrating the Ill'liltjF .AVIA'VI....M .mantle cavity (Ruck and Cook, i1999). In one inlet in British Co- 7 1lumbia (Port Neville), the shells 9.  0:0of H hamtschalkana were exten- 4- f jf vsively riddled with a labyrinth of

Fig. 5. Photomicrograph of the internal surface of a section of H. ins shell showingPolydora (possibly P. limicota, P.the close relationship between dark channels bored by invading polychaete wormsligni and/or R websteri) burrows and the pearls that surround them (arrowed).resulting in fragile shells that

cracked easily.The shells also

had internal de-formities such asnacre-covered nod-ules and patchesof dark discolor-ation. Two otherspecies of spionidpolychaetes (mud- -.1worms), Boccardiaknoxi and Polydo- ,ra hoplura, wereassociated withsevere blistering Fig. 6. A thickened shell fragment of H. iris that has pearls (arrowed black) visible on its external sur-in the shell and face (LHS). Note the corresponding rounded radiopacities (arrowed white) that reveal the presence50% or greater of these pearls in the shell (RHS). Also note the general left to right orientation of the radiolucentmortality among images of the channels bored by the invading polychaete worm.

The International Pearting Journal  

The complex structure of one external mantle cells of the aba- ACKNOWLEDGEMENTof these 'nests' of pearls of vari- lone that secrete nacre.ous size is revealed in figure 7. How and why this occurred The author wishes to express

remains a mystery; but the small his thanks to  u Hill and his sonCONCLUDING pearls that can be harvested from Jason for the loan of specimens for

THOUGHTS these deformed shells do have study. Other specimens of theseconsiderable academic and gem- unique pearls can be viewed on the

What was the initiating fac- mological interest. website http:/ /www.abalonepearls.tor/s for this formation of these If any reader can offer an ex- co. nz. *unusual aggregates of solid na- planation for the unusual occur-creous pearls that formed within rence of these abalone pearls, this Ed.: Our thanks to Dr. Grahame Brown

the shell of their host H iris? information would be most wel- for allowing us to reproduce this articleWhile likely associated in corne. from h\s Australian Gemmologist.

some manner witha shell-boring poly-chaete worm, it isunlikely that the 2 /« fr' -- l' Htrapped body of the /-1,-,vi' tri V ENCT'j V' 4 \ *'polychaete initiated .49.74.1the subsequent pearlforn UIr.

seerns Illilll lll,9221 Zillf:*2.,ii : 4 li*<? 4/. p ..'.u .4 0,- ,/,/f&   -Mt.f/3 4, - = -

some chemical prod- 2'1/Al-qi,I,£2,4113 1-.da- 4--*_2-  Fuct of the polyche- I.**&.093£--14  1£-&/1241'h -4 9--/ --*'.,=,=aete's shell boring  4£471.41WZ2'J '1    r * ,*-process actuallystimulated pearl for- Fig. 7. Shell of H iris sectioned through one of the aggregates of pearls,mation, somewhat revealing their solid concentric lamellar structure and the complexity of the multipleremotely from the aggregates that form one of the larger pearls (arrowed).

PLEASE NOTEWhile we were in Tucson, the mailbox facility we have

been using for umpty-ump years abruptly closed its doorsand went out of business without informing any clients ofits plans. This left a great many souls unhappy... besides  

missing valuable shipped documents, and without any ,means whatsoever of retrieving mail or packages.

New address: 302 West Kaler DrivePhoenix, Arizona 85021-724302 / USA.

The International Pearlin# Journal

GOLAY PEARL OVERVIEWMARKET OVERVIEW Categories and qualities record harvests in 2005

in strong demandfter the lean years of 2002 . South Sea pearls took a lion'sto 2004, the pearl industry • White South Sea pearls (8mm share of 37% of the total produc-recovered in 2005, and last to 12mm) in commercial to fine tion value

year further confirmed' the upward quality • Tahitian pearl production cametrend. • South Sea baroques of all under control: volume was down;

Entering the year 2006, produc- export value surgedsizesers reported stronger sales at farmsand in auctions. Wholesalers also • Golden South Sea pearls of vari- • Akoya's 2005 production regis-

tered a slight decline in volumereported improved sales to retailers ous qualities, and champagneand in valueduring major trade fairs and day- South Sea pearls ofhigh luster

to-day transactions. After a row of. • Round and drop-shaped Tahitian • Freshwater pearl production in-years cutting back on stock, most pearls from 7mm up creased in volume and proper-wholesalers were in the process of tionally in valuerebuilding stock in view of the firm- • Large size Tahitian pearls 12mming of pearl prices and the higher up of good quality (15mm up are

in acutely short supply) While the market demand recov-turnoven ered in 2005/2006, the production of

• Tahitian keshi pearls and Tahi- some categories of pearls came downPearl prices up tian baroques in 2005/2006 compared with the years

• Tahitian pearls in treated choco- of 2002,2003 and 2004... namely, theAfter bottoming out in 2004, late color exports of Tahitian cultured pearls

pearl prices started to climb in the and the production of akoya culturedlast quarter of 2004 through 2006, • Akoya pearls of good nacre and pearls. The production of South Sealuster 7mm to 9mmand further increases have contin- cultured pearls, however, saw a re-ued this year. . • Round to near round freshwater cord increase, while the production of

The various major pearl auc- pearls of all sizes freshwater cultured pearls in Chinations on South Sea pearls and Ta- • Freshwater pearls in baroque stood at high levels.hitian pearls from March through shapes and large sizes from 8mmSeptember of 2006 showed price South Sea productionUPincreases varying from 10% to 40% volume reaches record highcompared with 2005 levels. These • Freshwater pearls in fancyincreases are particularly remark- shapes: petals, coins, sticks,

2005 marked a historic year forable in the commercial qualities. spikes, crosses, tubes the development of the South SeaPrices of akoya pearls, notably • Multicolor necklaces with large pearl industry. It was in 2005 whenin the first grade pearls, also reg- baroque pearls 12mm up: mixing the production of South Sea pearlsistered a rise between 5% and 10% South Sea, Tahitian and fresh- registered a spectacular expansion,during the hamaage (raw pearls) water pearls about a 25% increase in volume. Forauctions in Japan in early 2006. Me-dium to good quality akoya pearls at • Long pearl sautoirs (80cm, the 'first time in the history of cul-

120cm, 150cm or more) of fresh- tured pearls, the annual harvest of9mm and above commanded higherwater pearls (white or multicolor) South Sea pearls surpassed the sup-

prices than previous years.Chinese freshwater pearls, af- or small Tahitian pearls of mixed ply of black pearls.

ter years of drastic price drops and shades of silver grey and black The total production of SouthSea pearls in 2005 was estimated at

fluctuations, also showing a bottom- between 9 tons (conservative esti-ing-out for the lower qualities, and Production overview

mate) and 10 tons (less conservativea firming-up for prices of higher estimate), with an estimated value ofqualities. Some categories of fresh- • World pearl production value in-

US$236 million.water pearls, such as top-quality creased 7% in value in 2005 ver-rounds and near rounds of all sizes, sus 2004 Australia and Indonesia re-

mained the top two producing coun-nice baroques from 8mm upward, • World pearl production value in tries, although the Philippines alsoand nice quality pearls above 10mm 2005 returned to the 2001 level, contributed to the significant increasein all shapes, experienced a signifi- at US$640 millioncant price hike. • South Sea production registered "Golay" to page 10

The International Pearting Journal  

- 1

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the Fair, are specifically fromthe pearl, bringing the widestrange of pearls, and finishedpearl jewellery of every quality

And nearly 9,000 out of a total of*==-_ HONG KONG 40,000 visitors come to the Fair

to make new trade contacts andJEWELLERY & WATCH FAIR to source new pearls and pearl

jewellery.For the global pearl trade, thisis the event you can't affordOne Fair • Two Venues • One Great Cityto miss....And it is only part of23-28 September 2007 Asia's biggest jewellery event,

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The International Pearling Journal

"Golay" from page 8 THE PEARL INDUSTRY:in South Sea harvests. The fully exploited usage of hatch- LOOKING FORWARDery oysters and the solid financial base of establishedproducers in producing countries -- namely Australia, In- ompared with two decades ago, cultured pearls havedonesia, the Philippines, Myanmar -- turned South Sea  become much more accessible due to the increasedpearls into the leading cultured pearl category, taking a supply and the relatively affordable prices. Pearlslion share of 37% of the total pearl market value in 2005. are now a major ingredient in jewelry, with a highly elastic

consumer price range from US$50 to US$50,000 coveringTahitian pearl value rebounded various jewelry segments, from fashion accessories, basic

designs for the mass market, to designer jewelry, fine jew-The supply of Tahitian pearls came down after the elry brands and haute couture masterpieces.

peak annual production of over 10 tons in the years 2002 The awareness of pearls has significantly increasedand 2003. Annual exports dropped to 8.5 tons in 2004 and among consumers in various countries and cultures. Thefurther down to 8.1 tons in 2005. The reduced supply in image of pearls has dramatically evolved, from the previ-quantity was the fruit of a series of government regula- ously conventional image of classic pearl necklaces reservedtory measures imposed on upholding the quality and mar- for mature women to take on a fresh, contemporary imageket value of the Tahitian pearl. This reform yielded posi-tive results: export values rebounded to US$115 million Production share by pearl category - 2005in 2004, followed by a consecutive rise to US$126 million Production share Production valuein 2005 (compared with US$95 million in 2003 when pro- in value 2005duction peaked). In 2006, the value continued to climb for White South Sea cultured pearlsTahitian pearl exports. The black pearl industry (Tahitian (Pinctada maximal 37% US$236 millionpearls as well as black pearls cultivated in other regions) Freshwater cultured pearlshad an overall estimated value of US$125 million, which (Hyriopsis cumingi) 23.5 % US$150 millionrepresented around 20% of the total pearl market value. Akoya cultured pearls

(Pindada fucata) 20 % US$128 millionSlight decline in akoya pearls Tahitian cultured pearls

(Pinclada margaritiferal 19.5% US$125 millionThe akoya pearl production dropped in both Japan

and China, and farming attempts inVietnam and Eastern Total 100 % US$639 millionAustralia even today are yet to yield commercial quanti-ties. In Japan, production dropped slightly to between 22and 24 tons in 2005, from over 25 tons in 2004. The an-nual Chinese akoya production dropped from 15 tons to Cultured pearl categories by production value

in 200510 tons. Nonetheless, the akoya pearl industry remaineda major pearl category, with a 2005 production value of 23.5%US$128 million, taking another 20% of the total pearlmarket in value. LI Je.9% evvhile South Sea

Ialad< a.iured pearlsStrong supplies of freshwater pearlscultured pearls

20n96 OAkoya cultured peallsSupply of freshwater pearls from China peaked in the 19.6%

years 2004 and 2005, characterized by an increased avail-OF,ushvater cutturedability of bigger sizes and innovative shapes. An estimated pearls1,500 tons of Chinese freshwater pearls were put into the

market in 2005. The drastic price crash in 2001/2002 andthe closures of some farms in 2002/2003 led to a reduced Pearl Prodution 2005scale ofinvestment during the years 2002-2004. Some pre- Volume Valuedicted a plausible decline in the freshwater pearl supply 2005 2005for the year 2007 (due to the cultivation cycle of 4 years).Meanwhile, the sizeable freshwater pearl industry repre- White South Sea pearls 10 tons US$236 millionsented over 23% of the total pearl market value, with an Black South Sea pearls 8.5 tons US$125 millionestimated production ofUS$150 million in 2005. (8.3 tons French Polynesia)

Akoya (Japan) 24 tons US$120 million• The value is calculated at pearl farm level, before all processesof value addition (sorting, stringing, setting into jewelry.) Produc- Akoya (China) 10 tons US$8 milliontion value can only be interpreted as actual market value under Freshwater pearls (China) 1,500 tons US$150 millionthe assumption that ALL production has been sold.• Sources: Golay Group, mglor pearl producers and wholesalers, Total 1,552.5 tons US$639 millionJeweliery News Asia,Pearl World.

The International Pearling Jok#rnal .Bm'of cutting edge chic for a wider age groups. This year, the brand bags, brand shoes, brand watches or holiday/vaca-pearl sautoir (see photo below) has become the most popular tion packages?and the indispensable accessory. For years, pearl organizations and companies have

Pearl producers have faced up to heavy challenges in the injected significant funds into education, product devel-past 20 years - farm management, hatchery oyster develop- opment and genetic and institutional communicationsments, oyster genetic researches, financial maneuvers, cost on pearls. Still, the overall pearl jewelry world is laggingcontrols to achieve economy of scale, environmental issues, behind when compared to leading car brands, prominentand striving their best to achieve feasible and profitable op- watch brands, fashion brands, leather accessory brandserations amid drastic economic changes as well as political and cosmetic brands. The pearl industry has a lot to learn

from other segments of consumer goods to bring pearlsales to a matching level of sophistication.Pearl Production While it is regrettable that the pearl industry/trade

Volume 2005 Volume 2004 fails to set up a unique and unified international organi-zation to promote the global awareness of pearls, many

White South Sea pearls 10 tons 7 tons industry members are realizing the importance of coop-Black pearls 8.5 tons 9 tons eration. The first ever joint initiative to promote Tahitian

(8.3 tonsTahitian pearts) (8.5 tons Tahitian pearts) pearls and white South Sea pearls in the United StatesAkoya (Japan) 22.5 tons 25 tons in the autumn of 2006 was a good example of trying toAkoya (China) 10 tons 15 tons achieve synergy. The record membership ofthe Hong Kong

Pearl Association, which groups over 80 freshwater pearlFreshwater pearls (China) 1,500 tons 1,200 tonssuppliers in Hong Kong, also points to the unified goal ofraising the image of Chinese freshwater pearls through

Total 1,551 tons 1,256 tons collective efforts.The challenges ahead the pearl world are multiple

and complex, but the competitive environment will be in-Pearl Production strumental in further propelling the pearl industry for-

Value 2005 Value 2004 ward in its evolution. Those who show proof of agility andWhite South Sea pearls US$236 million US$220 million the ability to meet up with fast changing consumer needs

will grow and succeed. *Black pearls US$125 million US$120 millionAkoya (Japan and China) US$128 million US$135 million Ed.: Our. thanks to Brigitte Sheung of Golay for providingFreshwater pearls (China) US$150 million US$120 million these periodical overviews of global pearl production. One

must note that these statistics do not cover production for theTotal US$639 million US$595 million year prior as data often takes a year or more to acquire.

and social instabilities in some pearl producing countries.However, while the industry advances towards sophis-

tication in terms of quality and supply, the consumer mar-ket has also evolved into a highly complex and competitiveworld in which there are a profusion of products for an in-creasingly discerning and demanding clientele. Indeed, theadvantageous quality/price ratio and attractive designs re-main crucial factors conducive to sales. But shoppers areshowing a switch in preference to favor an emotional shop-ping experience, requiring sophistication in shop designsand an internationally recognized brand often backed up bya celebrity endorsement.

The pearl world, like other industries ofconsumer goods,finds itself in a frantic race for communication and visibility.How many consumers think of pearIs when they look for agift for themselves and for those they love? How many con-sumers can tell the difference between good quality pearlsfrom low quality pearls? How many understand the variouscategories of pearls and their price logics? The latest studyfrom the Jewelry Consumer Opinion Council in the UnitedStates reveals that 49% of the respondents to a pearl surveydo not know what kind of pearls they own, and 54% do notknow which type of pearls is most desirable for them.

How many consumers can name a pearl jewelrybrand? How well can brand pearl jewelry compete with

The International Pearling Journal

THE INTRIGUING QUAHOG PEARLfrom 'The Purple Pearl" ability to posses One jewelry dur- eventually forms a pearl.by Robert Genis ing that period of New England Cultured pearls are created

history." by the same process as naturalpearls, but occur because of a dif-Alan Golash of Newport,

Rhode Island, enjoys looking for ' 6- -  *T-xmcf/$,- -- Et. ferent stimulant. Pearl harvestersand restoring antique jewelry for · :7-  '**•-••· -- open the oyster shell, cut a smalla living. He was browsing in anantique shop in 2000 searching ,%*,2/,I, 40,4.rli&*41-

slit in the mantle tissue, and theninsert small irritants to begin theprocess.for anything interesting.

His eyes quickly caught. apiece ofjewelry sitting in a basket 13ow Q,tahogs foitinwith other pieces that had neverbeen given anything but a quick The quahog pearl is not tech-glance. The owner of' the store nically a pearl since it does notsaid she bought the jewelry from 1.t ' come from an oyster. The qua-an estate of an old ship captain. hog is a thick-shelled member of

Golash paid $14 for a piece of the clam family and are simplycalled "hard clams" or "hard-shellwhat was believed to be costumeclams."jewelry. It turns out what he

bought was a circle pin featuring Quahogs can be found alonga rare quahog (pronounced KO- the North American Atlantichog) pearl. According to Golash, coast from Canada's Gulf of Saint"When the story Orst broke, CNN -13.c, : 1?ea,i·ls a,it foi·ined particularly abundant between

Lawrence to Florida. They areand every radio and tv station

Cape Cod and New Jersey.around the world camped out in As an oyster grows, its shell Golash states, "Quahogs thatNewport. 1 believe the story wastransmitted in 28 languages and grows, too. The mantle produces produce purple are only found in

I did over 100 radio interviews for the oyster's shell by using min- New England. You can search fortwo weeks." erals from the oyster's food. The quahogs in New Jersey but they

material created by the mantle are not purple."r.13]e. 1?iece is the nacre which lines

the inside of the shell.The brooch is believed to be a Many people think that

Victorian piece. It is made of 18- a small grain of sand iskarat gold and enamel with three responsible for the for-small rose-cut diamonds, featur- mation of a pearl, but

this is a misconception.ing two natural quahog pearls.The formation ofThe largest pearl is 14 mm

and weighs approximately 13 1/2 a natural pearl beginscarats. The shape of the pearl is when a parasite or for-

a button and looks like a purple eign substance gets intoM&M. the oyster between the

The smaller one is a 4 carat mantle and the shell.teardrop. Both are similar in col- This irritates the man-

or. According to Golash, "I believe tle. The oyster's naturalthe piece is at least 150 - 200 years reaction is to cover up that irri- Quahogs are similar to pearlsold. I speculate it was probably tant to protect itself. The mantle in that the pearl is started by aowned by the wife of a Captain covers the irritant with layers of parasite. Golash continues, "Theof a clipper ship or whaling ship. the same nacre substance that difference is that the purple stainThey were the ones with Onancial is used to create the shell. This of the quahog colors the pearl, not

The International Pearting Journal  

the nacre. This is the same man- ¥alirie auction the piece in Hong Kongner in which a conch pearl is cre- because the Far East is the pri-ated. Interestingly, anything that What is the value of the pur- mary market for pearls. I havemakes a shell can theoretically ple pearl? been quoted from $250,000-$1make a pearl under the right con- Some in the trade scoff at the million as the value of the piece."ditions." projected value of this stone at $1 Golash hopes someone from

In the past, quahogs were million and state it is simply mar- New England will buy and keepused by the American Indians as keting hype. the piece because of its historicalmoney or wampum. They would According to Wes Rankin, importance.carve tubular purple beads to use President, Paci[]c Coast Pearls,for trading. Petaluma, California, "A natural

round 14 mm Pearl would weigh S11111111:31·j;40-50 carats and would sell for atleast $80,000-$100,000. You can- In order for any gemstone tonot really compare this to the pur- be valuable it must be beautiful,

-,Ek.11. ple pearl because it is a button. A rare and desirable. Just because

natural button pearl is only worth a gem is rare does not necessarilya couple of thousand dollars. I make it valuable.

Does the purple pearl havewholesale purple Scallop pearlsfor a thousand dollars per carat.„ value or is it a curious oddity?

According to Stuart Robert- The true value of any gem-Recent tl·a,vels son, Research Director/Gemstone stone is what a knowledgeable

Editor of Gemworld Internation- buyer and seller agree upon. His-The purple pearl made its de- al, Northbrook, IL, "The value of a torical precedence is practically

but at the Tucson Gem Show 2005 museum quality round South Sea nonexistent in pricing quahogand has plans to be exhibited in 14 mm cultured pearl this size pearls. Only time will tell the trueother shows and museums. The would be approximately $8,000- value of the purple pearl if andSmithsonian Institution is consid- 10,000." when it sells at auction.

If it seLls for what some peopleering including it in its "Natural In other words, the premiumPearls" exhibit. the purple pearl is asking is over are projecting, many elam diggers

25-100 times the price of a round will be especially attentive whenSouth Sea cultured pearl and an they open their clams this sum-

Not so 1·are astronomical premium over a nat- mer. Whatever the outcome, theural button pearl. whole episode and the surround-

Golash stated, "Since the sto- ing publicity has probably helpedry broke, people have been coming the pearl business in general.out of the woodwork with other A uction Whatever the outcome, thequahog pearls. About 200 hava whole episode and the surround-surfaced and this has become a According to Golash, "I have ing publicity has probably helpedmajor issue on the internet among sent the piece to both Sotheby's the pearl business in general.the antique crowd. Most are ugly and Christie's. We will probablyand may be interesting for col- Thankslectors only, but not for jewelry.Probably only 10 of the 200 havea pretty lavender purple color." Our thanks go to the indefati-

Quahog is the only elam, or r ·1; 4 gable Diane AlCi116 for pointing us- toward this article. For more infor-bi-valve, that produces a purple

mation on quahogs, go to http: / /stain. Sometimes the color is a   www.preciousgemstones.com/gfsum-light purple, but occasionally the 1--, ; mer05.html or http:/ /WWW.projo.purple gets too dark and becomes com/news/content/projo_20030507_nearly black. purpearl.4dce#.htm or http:/ /www.

pearls.com/news:/quohog_pearl.htm. There are many, many morequahog sites on the internet. *

The International Pearling Journal

A VERY RARE MELO MELO

.\--

Diameter: 37.97 - 37.58 mm Cultivation : Hundreds of yearsWeight: 397.52 cts. Shininess : BrilliantColor: Orange Character : Of the non-nacreous varietySurface: Smooth Certificate : AIGS on December 26, 1996Sphe icity: Loose, near round Given by Dr. Ken Scarrett

This pearl does not come from oys- Melo. The Indian Volute (htip:/ /www.gas-ters, but from the snail called the tropods.com /6/Shell_1106.html)... anothermelo melo. Much more than this, name for the Melo... is a very rare find for aThe Sunrise Pearl is the biggest pearl.

and roundest natural melo melo pearl found "Originally, the former Yugoslavian Prince,in the world! ! the vice president, Mr. Domitri Karageorge of

This particular melo melo is nearly the size Sotheby's, suggested not to sell it by auctionof a golf ball! Its colors normally range from and he offered about US$ 5 million for it attan to dark brown, with orange being the most Taiwan Sotheby's a few years back. Then, hedesirable hue. Also like the conch pearl, the offered about US$ 7 million after he got backcolorisbelievedtobesubjecttofadingovertime. to the USA from Taiwan. Nevertheless, theFor more info, visit: http: / / www.pearls.com / owner still didn't accept it.news2/mysterious_orange_melo_pearl. htm. "Anyway, it is very possible that the owner

When the seller's representative was con- will accept if you bid a little more. How muchtacted, he was asked; «How much?"His answer would you offer for the No.1 natural Melowas as follows: "In response to your question, Pearl? As a middle man, I would do my best toplease be advised that the Melo Pearl is the achieve this as soon as possible." •>biggest and roundest natural Melo Pearl inthe world and it is impossible to find another Ed.: No kidding, Dick Tracy. Wonder what yourone like this. That's because it will take sev- commission would be were it to sell for seveneral millions years to form a pearl in the Melo million dollars or more?

The International Pearling Journal .TilA PEARL FARMER'S

ENTREPRENEURIAL ADVENTUREby Manuel M. CojuangcoPresidentJewelmer International Corporation

This article is an excerpt from thebook "Taking Aim: Asian ManagementBreakthroughs" (© 2006, TripletopAIM, Inc.)

The experience has been col- 9/,al* 1-orful and exciting-even an ad-venture. But not unlike a dra-matic canvas of a breathtak-ing Philippine sunset where the -----blaze of reds, magenta and pinkis made more fiery against abackdrop of brooding rain clouds, The distance and isolation of the ideal site are just two of the problemsour «success" has likewise been, we have to face early on in the establishing of a pearl farm.for us, that much more satisfy-ing against our own backdrop of poses to which we are called. Mike The degree with which wemyriad challenges. Murdock in his book entitled possess the ingredient of passion

Some were inherent in the «The Law of Recognition" (1999, or conviction determines hownature of the business and were Wisdom International) says that much "fuel" we have to keep ustherefore of a technical-biological each of us is here on some as- going in our pursuit.origin. Others were of an exter- signment or another, whether we One has to embark on an as-nal source with their roots from know it or not, and that there are sessment of the relevant resourc-a socio-political and economic many solutions to problems for a es at one's disposal-financial,background. All these challeng- person or a place. Many opportu- human, as well as others that arees are common to most all insti- nities to «do something" abound. vitally needed in exploiting thetutions. However, the common- In my case, I am a believ- targeted opportunity. But with-ality rests only in that none are er in what I would call «passive out a strong pull toward a spe-exempt from them. The unique- awareness" which I would liken cific opportunity, one could pre-ness comes from the particular to someone maintaining as broad maturely misjudge an entrepre-way each organization responds a vision as possible and being neurial venture as a serious mis-to them. aware and sensitive to those op- adventure.

What follows is a recounting portunities that "speak" to us. In my case, I had been inof what has been our particular What determines which particu- charge of a coconut hybridizationexperience and it is hoped that lar venture we embark on is in- program on a remote island init will yield a modicum of insight extricably linked to that which Palawan in 1974. I have alwaysinto this still-unfolding journey ignites a spark of passion in us, loved the sea and this love gave

which in turn is linked to the rise to a curiosity as to what elseTHE OPPORTUNITY particular "assignment" to which could be done in this pristine en-

we are called. Spotting an oppor- vironment that could make senseI believe that opportunity tunity is, after all, only the first both financially and logistically.

. comes our way and the nature of step. Who can know how long or One can easily imagine thethis opportunity is closely linked arduous the process toward the logistics problems and the start-to the particular purpose or pur- desired objective can take? "Pearl Farm" to page 16

The International Pearting Journal

"Pearl Farm" from page 15 operations. mind for the pearl farm would beSix months later, a French- suitable.

up costs involved in undertak- man from Tahiti, Jacques Branel- Subsequently, we sat downing a project located in the dis- lec (who eventually became our for two or three weeks to cometant southeastern boundary of business partner), came along up with a project study and tothe Philippines. The idea of pro- proposing a project along the look in detail at the elements es-ducing pearls came to mind (who same lines. sential to the project. After a few

months, we were on our start-up.

The project initially envi-sioned a first harvest after threeor four years as we were to usemature operable pearl oystersfrom Jolo at the southernmost

, tip of the archipelago. This meantthat, consequently, we did notneed a long «grow out" period for

: the oysters to be productive.

THE RISKS

There are a few inherentcharacteristics of this project

as an entrepreneur.'One was thethat stood out from my viewpoint

A pearl farm facility similar to what we built fairly long gestation period. An-when we started Jewelmer 28 years ago. other was the lack of technical

information as well as personnelknows from whence these sud- Serendipity or destiny? Rea- in this «esoteric" field. And final-den thoughts come?) and on my son or intuition? Who really ly, there was the difficulty in ob-own, I ventured on a first cursory knows? But that's the way our taining the raw material, i.e. thestudy of it. South Sea pearl adventure start- live pearl oysters.

Intuitively, it made initial ed to unfold. Jacques Branellec These are what I considersense to me. I knew a fair bit about and I discussed his proposal af- «inherent" risks of the venturethe sea, having acquired some ter which we decided to proceed and they can either be consider-knowledge trough scuba diving. to the island where we both made ed disadvantages or advantagesIt was clear that any project in an underwater inspection dive depending on one's point of viewthis remote location would have to see whether the site I had in as well as on one's capacity toto be able to share the deal with them.physical and logisti- ' >,«- . » -  * dr* 4 '  -- <4t ,t*t'954  ObviouslL thecal infrastructure that , *,Adminte + .4 - *5;I-*E i'·.0 & longer the gestationwe had already estab- - . *_ »z=':942 ,2 11.147<  4              period, the higherlished for the coconut . W#v =.1 -- the inherent riskproject. Most impor- -/-6.-1-;.-1T Trf- owing to several fac-tantly, the prospective tors, such as extend-product would have ed exposure to theto be non-perishable, vagaries of weather,owing to our distance changes in the bio-from any market. It logical condition ofalso had to be of such . ,   , the marine environ-high value as to absorb We personally did the underwater inspection dive to find out ment, and even pro-.what I already knew to if the site was suitable for a pearl farm. Here, you can find lines longed exposure tobe a fairly high cost of of buoys with oyster baskets hanging underneath. changes in the exist-

The International Pearting Journal .milalong the way.

How to reasonably mitigatethose inherent risks? As a start,we would need «friendly" financ-ing-mostly from our own per-sonal sources and from those whowould not impose a stringent re-payment scheme.

I figured that subsequent-ly, should the need have arisen,we could have possible access to

' t some form of venture capital orpossibly invite others to invest inwhat I thought was a potentiallylucrative enterprise. In the proj-ect study we made, we saw to itthat "adequate" allowances weremade to deal with delays in pro-

We had to build, from scratch, the entire physical duction or the income stream.and logistical infrastructure for a pearl farm like this. Another essential element in

our preparation was the marketing socio-political environment. lytical in our approach. study. Due to a terrible lack of

An entrepreneur, necessarily, To think logically, that is, to information on pearl establish-has to be comfortable with these deduce and infer from data and ments and markets, we had torisk factors and ultimately confi- empirical observation, would resort to personally meeting asdent enough of his resources and have to become a religious ac- many people as we could havecapability to be able to turn these tivity in our daily way of life. Of access to, who were active in theto his advantage. course, we tried our best to re- wholesale as well as retail end of

I figured that no amount of cruit the best technicians that the market.money invested in such a project we could identify and afford at This approach eventually al-could appreciably accelerate the that time. Needless to say, the lowed us to flesh out a market-necessary biological processes technicians' skills and exper- ing plan and strategy. One prob-pearl oysters need to go through ience in caring for and prepar- able outright conclusion we drewto be productive. ing the pearl oysters for both the as a result of our meetings with

Regarding the paucity of pre-operation and post-opera- potential buyers was that whentechnical personnel as well as tion phases were key factors in it comes to luxury products, oneinformation, I evaluated them our eventual success. cannot «pre-sell." The only timecarefully. I was convinced that As for the live oysters, we one can sell in this field is whenmy French partner would be able found the most reliable supplier one has the goods on hand andto provide the necessary "basics" based in Jolo with whom we were hence can physically vie for theto ensure reasonable success but able to forge a good relationship buyers' interest.intuitively, I felt that this was but the price of the oysters defi- Buyers have amazing memo-going to be most critical in de- nitely reflected a burgeoning sell- ries ofpearl lots that have passedtermining whether our success er's market and would stay that through their hands, remember-would be moderate or notable. way as we went along. ing shapes, quality, color and siz-

The fact that there were no On the whole, there was no es of lots they had bought from«recipe books" to guide us in our way I could safely conclude at various producers in the past.adventure into the strange and the point of start-up that success With this information in mind,unknown alchemy of sea, marine was ensured. Any endeavor that the financing scheme became alllife, as well as human interven- dealt with living organisms in the more critical. The higher thetion, all were serious challenges an environment impossible to in- risk, the more conservative oneto our collective ability to be most fluence, much less control, couldobservant, methodical, and ana- mean delays or "mini-failures" "Pearl Farm" to page 18

The International Pearling Journal

"Pearl Farm" from page 17 Another very important skill vices with the limited materialsneeded in the execution phase of and equipment on hand in order

needed to be in sourcing financ- a project such as ours was inno- to forestall being set way behinding, even if it eventually meant vation and creativity in «on-the- schedule. Reflecting on in thisrelinquishing a substantial por- spot" problem solving. incident brings to mind a say-tion ofthe ownership structure. I still recall the very first ship- ing that adversity and problems

Considering all of these, I ment of live oysters we received will always abound, but it is notlooked at one important "what-if" in the farm. It was an «all-hands- those per se that can destroy usscenario, just to make sure that on-deck" situation where every- but>-rather-our attitude in deal-I was not playing a kind of all- one from the president down to ing with them.or-nothing game I was not ready the cook had to pitch in to get the I now know that this firstfor, nor willing to play At some oysters quickly enough into the 'setback" which we were deter-point, I had to be convinced that sea in order to cut down adverse mined to solve saved us a greatI would be left with "something" exposure to the atmosphere. We deal of money over time. (Weof value which I could still parlay all felt quite satisfied with our still use the very same devicesinto some other gainful endeavor concerted effort and I felt the as a routine precaution up to thisshould the unthinkable occun budding of the kind of company very day) It is equally gratifying

identity and camaraderie that I that these skills have been honedwas hoping to establish. in our people through the myriad

EXECUTION Everyone settled down in our situations they face everyday.makeshift accommodations after But whatever techniques we

How an entrepreneur exe- a long and warm day, and early find essential and applicable tocutes his plan of action is, I dare morning the next day, we all anx- our particular endeavor, the real-say, as diverse as all our individ- iously checked on the condition of ity is that these will only be asual characters. But there are a our previous wards, only to find good and as effective as the peo-few thoughts that come to mind that almost half of our oysters ple that execute them.that I feel are vital to the execu-tion phase, most especially, in - -#ALan entrepreneurial undertaking. ..

One is «attention to detail". 4

; -

While "attention to detail" can '6, . s.'arguably be a delegated task, thisdoes not detract from the innatetask of seeing to the execution ofdetails which at first blush mightseem insignificant but could beimportant pegs in a whole round ahdp '., 7 41 +of essentially intertwined activi-ties. What I've found useful here 7 0 p it ,9 ,is a simulation process not unlike -.the process of making a decision . '23 .1!p .3 .'.. 2.- V<tree, bringing to light necessary ov g k.

steps that one needs to take, aswell as the logical order in which Whatever techniques we find essential and applicable to our endeavors arethey should unfold. only as good and effective as the people that execute them. The author,

This process helps to high- Mr. Cojuangco (6th from left) with some of the pearl farm employees.light potential "bottlenecks"which need closer monitoring or had been eaten by the many cor- Itgoeswithoutsayingthatweanticipation. I feel that it also al fish that thrived in the waters all try to match the particular po-helps to develop insight into the we had placed them in. sitions to the persons most quali-approaches one needs to use in We had to instantly apply our fied to occupy them. This processexecuting important phases of collective energies and talents implies a judgment, not only onthe project. into fashioning protective de- the technical qualifications ofthe

The International Pearling Journal ./gl

hiree, but also on his or of the directions towardher character and mo- which we would like thetivation within which company to move.those capabilities are In orienting newcouched. hirees, I often remind

I believe in the say- them that we are noting that our gifts only hiring workers who con-last as long as our char- sider the company as aacter can hold them. source of regular incomeOne might be outstand- but that we are, in effect,ing in technical and aca- placing a mutual bet ondemic qualifications but one anothenthese very sarne assets Their stake is theircould be a person's un- time, effort and loyalty.doing if his or her indi- Against that, they arevidual character cannot betting that we, at thechannel or direct them helm, will be able to doappropriately. our job well enough to

It is because of this ensure a good future forthat my business part- In the course of our endeavors, we have been transformed them and their families.ner and I still conduct from entrepreneur to community faciliator and mover; We are betting onthe final interview for trom businessman to "father," to "brother and even ·to them that they will beeach and every appli- "marriage counselor." Here, Mr. Branellec and Mr. Cojuangco responsible and self-mo-cant, regardless of rank enjoy a fun moment with pearl farm employees. tivating, bringing withor position. Of course, them all the good Fili-one might justifiably regard this school students with curriculum pino values inculcatedas excessive micro- managing. using the individualized instruc- in their upbringing: values suchBut in our case, one needs to re- tion approach. as pagmamalasakit (deep caringmember that not only are we try- Any employee, no matter and empathy) and kusang loobing to find people to match a posi- where located, can opt to send (initiative).tion but, also, that we are in the his or her children to this school Our people have more thanprocess of seeking those who can in lieu of the public school near admirably risen to the demandsbelong to our corporate «commu- their farms. of their respective posts, espe-nity." In addition to this, there cially when they realize that the

After all, our farms are 10- are other diverse activities we competition we face is not simplycated in very remote, hard-to- encourage and initiate in our of a local but of a global nature.access areas, as these are usu- "communities" which relate to Our trust in them has notally the more pristine and envi- the socio-cultural and religious been misplaced as this has paidronmentally suited for our busi- life of our employees. I felt that dividends in uncommon willing-ness. As a result, we find that our these are -essential to keeping ness and persistence to do thetask metamorphoses from one of our «communities" vibrant and job right.building a functioning, harmoni- thriving. They have also displayedous organization to one of build- We also take every oppor- deep devotion and loyalty noting a viable, thriving community tunity to touch base with all just to the company but also to ain the fullest sense of the term. the members of each farm as of- community composed of persons

Thus, wherever and when- ten as possible. of like minds and spirit.ever possible, we try to settle the We dialogue with them to The most difficult part of thefamilies of our workers in the re- keep abreast.of what progress is execution phase was not to comespective farms they work in. being made in the other farms up with our first harvest but,

In one farm for example, as well the head office. We also rather, to increase the quantityowing to its bigger land area, share with them important is- of harvest in order to enable uswe have been able to establish a sues that confront the organiza-school for elementary and high tion as a whole and apprise them "Pearl Farm" to page 20

The International Pearling Journal

"Pearl Farm" from page 19 pared with those of other prove- tackle the technical and biologi-nances. We would also point out cal problem of oyster reproduc-

to attract large foreign wholesale the key determinants of quality tion and grow-out.buyers. It was of primary impor- and price as well as the elements The break-through took ustance for us to be able to increase that constituted quality and the seven years to complete, and tothe size of our harvest ifwe were difTerence between hand-made thebestofourknowledge, weweregoing to have any headway in jewelry vis-A-vis "commercial" considerably ahead of any compe-penetrating the foreign whole- ones. tition. Thanks to the patience andsale market for pearls, which was We were fortunate enough skill of our local and foreignour initial target mar- marine biologists, weket. 9 could now embark on

Our problem was a much needed andtwo-pronged. One was A key marketing approach was long-delayed expansiontechnical and the oth- combining the elegance of Philippine program.er market-related. pearls with French expertise e We endeavored to

Technically, the in goldsmithing and  minimize the risks in-haute couture jewelrylimiting factor was design. herent in our kind of

the supply of oysters enterprise by devisingand their escalating a conservative finan-price. I had foreseen cial and marketing ap-this at the outset as proach in our expan-a potential problem ./, sion. Our initial years

 noki hgadforso deone  6 '  · ··1' us that our targetedof operation had shown

who could help us wholesale market wasstart a breeding pro- , .t really more like an ex-gram to reproduce our  , , elusive country clubown pearl oysters. - difficult to penetrate

The challenge .18, , and equally difficult to  was what to do dur- 4/3« OJ? ' read.ing the time we could I remember one

not market our pearls «friendly club member"internationally as orig- taking me aside andinally envisioned. saying: «Manuel, I like '

On the market you and your partnerside, a major factor *.- so I will tell you that,was in starting an although your prod-income system of ut- uct quality is good, oth- Lmost urgency to keep up with op- that in a few months, with very ers will not buy from you becauseerational expenses. This was how little media advertising- albe- they perceive your group as 'toowe embarked on maximizing the it with much word-of-mouth en- stron* (whatever that meant) sovalue of our pearl harvest by con- dorsements from satisfied cli- that they feel they cannot get averting the raw pearls into high- ents- our jewelry line took off good bargain."end, one-of-a-kind jewelry It is beyond expectations. As a result, With that «inside info" provi-an understatement to say that it we had to hire a French master dentially proffered by a "friendlyhelped that we knew some talent- goldsmith to train high school club member," my partner and Ied local and foreign goldsmiths. graduates from among the chil- agreed on an appropriate course

We devised a marketing ap- dren of our farm workers in the ofaction.proach quite novel at the time in fine art of goldsmithing and Our strategy was to find onethe local scene. We would invite stone-setting. of the bigger, better-establishedgroups of interested ladies to a This «diversionary" market- pearl wholesalers who wouldlecture on pearl production and ing scheme bought for us the welcome a price advantage. Thehow our Philippine pearls com- time and resources we needed to market situation was such that

The International Pearting Journal  

club". From start-up But I find, in retrospect, thatto this juncture, the this satisfaction does not ema-adventure had taken nate from reaching a target or ob-

This story of our from the human interaction andus more than 12 years. jective. Rather, it springs mainly

ment would be most through shared adversity as wellcompany's develop- relationships built and forged

incomplete without as shared success.briefly touching on This journey has probablyanother important been more significant than theelement that formed destination.

A part of our manage- In the course of this adven-4 ment philosophy. ture, we have been thankfully" As an entrepren- transformed from entrepreneur

11- * ' 9 eur, I must give credit to community facilitator and mov-to two core courses I er; from businessman to "father",

*, took at the Asian In- to "brother", to "spiritual adviser"stitute of Management: and even to "marriage counselor."Human Behavior and Not all attempts are "success"

  Environmental Analy- stories but one has to be careful

these courses greatly success with.sis. Suffice it to say, that about the yardstick one measures

helped me in approach- For after all, we are in the life  ing the many exigen- ofbusiness... or are we in the busi-

cies both «intramural" ness of life?Strong demand for natural colored Philippine South and "extramural" in Or, as I like to term it:

Sea pearls continues to be our driving force. this entrepreneurial 6'Our choice determines ouradventure. And they measure." *

a lot of the pearl producers were have provided the frameworkresorting to auctioning their goods for establishing ourselves as aso that we could detect a "disrup- relevant and beneficial membertion" in the normal marketing of the different communities inchannels. It is at that time that which we are located.we tied up with the biggest pearldealers. MOVING FORWARD

This arrangement afforded usa «worry-free" period to concen- The process of identifyingtrate on improving quantity and opportunity, assessing risk, andquality of production without be- execution does not end withing distracted by the need to ag- successfully building a com-

- gressively market and travel to pany from the ground up. It issell our product. a process inherent in moving

This also afforded us the nec- a company forward, which inessary time to establish our rep- turn is absolutely necessary ifutation as the Philippine source we are able to accommodate theof quality, natural-color golden individual and collective profes-South Sea pearls as well as mak- sional as well as personal aspi-ers ofexquisitely designed and ex- rations of the members of one'secuted hand-made jewelry. organization.

This one major move result- Having built up a success-ed in attracting other strong and ful company in a pioneering Manuel Cojuangco atestablished buyers and this was field has blessed us with much Jewelmer's U/#mate Orient 2006how we broke into this "exclusive satisfaction. show in Hong Kong.

The International Pearling Journal

TUCSON PEARL REPORT 2007by Lois H. Berger, G.G., NAJA will include white round JapaneseWhite, Natural Pink/ Mauve, akoya cultured pearls at currentSemi-Round CFWCPs    he world of pearls is pricing, although all ofthese sizes

amazing! Many of the 4x 4.5mm $24 are not readily available. Themost prominent people on 4.5x5mm $28 listed prices are grade A and 16"

the national scene wear pearls, 5x 5.5mm $29 length.a real tribute to our industry. 5.5x6mm $35Nancy Pelosi, Speaker of the 6x 6.5mm $43 White Round Japanese AkoyaHouse, Condi Rice, Secretary 6.5x7mm $60 (saltwater} Cultured Pearlsof State and Senator Hillary 7x7.5mm $80Clinton wear Tahitian, golden 7.5x 8mm $125 5.5x6mm $250and white South Sea cultured 8x8.5mm $190 6x6.5mm $314pearls. This makes a meaningful 8.5x 9mm $250 6.5x7mm $400statement for the pearlindustry. 9xlOmrn $250-$500 7x7.5mm $575Viva Za perla! 10xllmrn $500-$1,000 7.5x8mm $775

This year's Chinese fresh- 8x8.5mm $1,400water cultured pearl production Many Chinese freshwater 8.5x9mm $2,500reveals a number of new petal pearls are coming down in 9x9.5mm $4,000standout items. Our familiar price or at least maintaining the 9.5)10mm $6,500favorite, Chinese freshwater same price as last year. In somecultivated petal pearls, remain instances, dealers had a 25%a great seller, although they mark down. Moving last year's White Round Chinese Akoya

(saltwater) Cultured Pearlsare not quite as hot as they inventory is always a problem.have been in the past couple of The range in sizes and prices 5x 5.5mm $164years. for Chinese freshwater cultured 6x 6.5mm $180

We saw much larger Chinese petal pearls is as follows: 6.5x 7mm $270freshwater cultured pearls this 7x7.5mm $400year They make a distinct Chinese Freshwater Cultured 7.5x 8mm $600fashion statement. These keshi Petal Pearls 8x8.5mm $1,200Chinese freshwater cultured 8.5x9mm $2,000pearls are a delight with their 8x9 mm White $70 9x9.5mm $3,000extraordinary orient and shape. 9x10 mm White $90 9.5xl Omm $4,500They mimic an impasto painting 10-11 mm Pastel $200-250technique with thick lines of 11 x12 mm White $150

11 x12 mm White $125nacre being drawn across the For several years we have seenpearl's canvas. These eye- 11-12mm Pastel $350-400 beautiful round, natural color,

12-14mm White $450catching keshi shapes are really high luster Chinese freshwater15x16 mm White Silver $131.25 cultivated, tissue activated pearls.«avant-garde"free form.

Chinese freshwater cultured The quality is excellent and thepearls have come a long way. White round Chinese akoya rarity of these pearls puts themTheyhaveexcellentluster,clean, cultured pearls are desirable in a special niche. The growthoff-round, matched, white rosd since Japanese akoya cultured factor is 3-10 years in the waterand are available in all sizes. pearls are very hard to come by in and many years of sorting.Prices have remained steady both small and large sizes. I did These high-end Chinese ,since last year. Treatments and see some very beautiful Japanese freshwater cultured pearls areprocessing have provided a very akoya · cultured pearls at one used in mixed-origin strands withmarketable product. All strands dealer's booth. He had fantastic Tahitian, golden South Sea andlisted below are 16". Pricing is quality goods. In today's market, white South Sea cultured pearls.as follows: you don't see this very often. I

The International Pearling Journal . 4

CFWCPs Tissue Activated, Round Tahitian South Sea Cultured Baroques

9.5x10.5mm Metallic Peach $3,200 8x14.8mm Baroque Mixed $8009.5x10.5mm Peacock Rainbow $9,800 8x10.8mm Drop Baroque Grey medium to dark $4509.75xl 1.75mm Multicolor Pink Purple $5,300 8.lxll.lmm Drop Baroque Black Green overtone $5009.8x 10.8mm Platinum Rosd $5,800 8.lx11.5mm Baroque Black Green Aubergine $7009.8x10.8mm Metallic Cream $2,850 oveMone10xllmm Rainbow Metallic $4,800 10xllmm Drop Baroque Dark Grey $1,00010)10.5mm Orange Lavender $4,250 10.2x12.7mm Baroque Very light Grey Silver $1,800

12x15.3mm Baroque Mixed Blacks $6,00012.2x14.4mm Baroque Med Grey $2,400

The keshi Chinese freshwater cultivated pearls 12.3x14.4mm Baroque Black $10,000were outstanding. These pearls are a «hot ticket" 15x16.5mm Baroque Black with Blue Silver $14,000item! Their free-form shapes and surfaces exhibit Greydelightful orient. What surprises will China produce 15x17.2mm Drop Semi Black $8,500next? Probably even larger size pearls with even 15.9x13.lmm Baroque Med Black $8,800thicker nacre. 16.8(15mm Baroque Med Black Peacock $16,000

17x15mm Baroque Med Black-strong Green $4,800Keshi CFWCPs overtone

6x7mm Keshi Golden $258mm Keshi Off White $458x9mm Keshi Silver Blue $220 Tahitian South Sea Cultured Rounds

11 x15mm Keshi White $101.258x10mm Slight Off Mixed $2,50012*13x35mm Keshi Multi-Metallic $180 singles

Round12x15x30mm Keshi Double Multi - Lavender $1,500 8.2x9.9mm Round Black Green overtone $5,200Cream Peach 9x8.3mm Round Black $1,900

18x13mm Keshi Silver White $250 9xllmm Round Aubergine, Lt Gold, $3,50020x23x18mm Keshi Metallic Lavender $2,500 U Grey, Pistachio,

Gold Orange Bluish Green22x13mm Keshi Golden Lavender $200 9x12.2mm Round Black Green overtone $2,650

White 10xllmm Round Multi-color $2,50010x13.lmm Round Lt Grey $2,60022x30-40mm Keshi Waves White and Pastel $220 each

22x32mm Keshi Flower White $1,500 10x13.3mm Round Lt Grey, Bluish $5,000Green, Brown,Golden, GreenishGold

11 x12.7mm Roundto Black Lt Grey, $4,000Huge efforts have been expended to produceOff Round Green Bronzea round, bead-nucleated Chinese freshwater 11x13.lmm Round Black Green overtone $5,000

cultured pearl. At this time, we are seeing a full 11*13.4mm Round Green Bronze, $9,200production of bead nucleated Chinese freshwater Pistachios, Lt Blue,cultured pearls that have a baroque shape with Lt Grey

11 x14.5mm Slight Off Lt Grey, Bluish $6,500Round Black, Green, Brown,

Baroque CFWCPs Golden, Bronze11.2x10.2mm Round Black multi-colors $3,000

9xlomm Baroque Light Lavender $135 12*14.5mm Round Fancy color $7,00010xllmm Baroque Light Pastel $125 13x16.lmm Round Bluish Green, $16,00010x18mm Baroque Mixed Lavender White $100 Lt Grey, Bronze

15x16.5mm Round to Black $16,00011x12mm Baroque Pastel Metallic Tails' $600 Off Round11x14mm Baroque Peach $110 16.3x14.95mm Round Grey Silver $21,00012+ mm Baroque Pastel Metallic "Tails" $1,40013x20mm Baroque White $7015x14mm Baroque nuggets Very Light Apricot $33515*8mm Baroque Gold White $7016x12mm Baroque Multi-Metallic $15020x25mm Baroque White Lavender Cream $1,250 "Tucson" to page 28

The International Pearling Journal

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The International Pearting Journal

IDENTIFYING KASUMIGAURA PEARLSby Dr. D. E. Jacob, U Wehrmeis- around 7 me-ten Dn T Hager, Prof Dr W. Hof- ters.meister: Institute for Gemstone The farms  Research, Johannes Gutenberg owned by the

1 University, Mainz, Germany. culturing ex-p,

pertYanase areTranslated, adapted and reprint> behind a damed courtesy of Goldschmiede Zei- in the south-tung from pp. 53-55 of its Novem- ern region of  ber 2005 issue the lake,· in

the connectingABSTRACT. branches ofthe    ·-  "J

rivers and in -/A new analytical technique, artificial ponds

utilizing laser ablated Inductive that are fedCoupled Plasma-Mass-Spectrom- with lake wa- Fig, 1. The Kasumigaura musset, a cross-breed betweenetry or ICP-MS, has been used to ter. the Japanese Hyn'opsis sch/ege# and the Chinese Hyriopsisdemonstrate discriminatory dif- The first cuming# mussels. Photograph: Boris Dmenturger.ferences between Kasumigaura freshwater cul-bead nucleated cultured freshwa- tured pearlster pearls and Chinese cultured from Lake Kasumigaura were Hyriopsis schlegeli and the Chi-freshwater pearls. The measured marketed in Europe around the nese Hyriopsis cumingii. ThisBarium and Strontium concentra- mid-nineties. new mussel (Fig. 1) is now usedtions clearly distinguish Kasum- Even the first harvests yield- to culture pearls in Lake Kasum-igaura cultured pearls by their ed up to 20 mm, almost round igauralow values from Chinese fresh- pearls. This meant that the pearls Kasumigaura pearls arewater cultured pearls that have were comparable with the cul- mainly cultured with bead nu-higher and more variable Ba/Sr- tured pearls from the South Seas clei made ofAmerican freshwaterratios. and Tahiti, also in terms of price. mother of, pearl. A conspicuous

There are barely any details avail- feature of the nuclei is that theyLAKE KASUMIGAURA able about pearl culturing compa- are drilled through. This is part

nies in the region right through to of the implantation method. TheLake Kasumigaura, located the nineties. It is fair to assume drill holes are needed in order to

approx. 60 km to the Northeast of that pearls from harvests in the get a better purchase on the nucleiTokyo, is Japan's second largest region were previously marketed with a needle or suitable pliers solake. The name "Kasumigaura" together with pearls from Lake as to position them correctly.includes the main river Nishiura Biwa. Kazuhisa Yanase, one of theand also the lakes Kitaura and Hyriopsis schlegeli, one of the three farmers in Lake Kasum-Sotonasakaura and their connect- "traditional" freshwater pearl igaura, uses in his farm nucleiing tributaries. mussels was not indigenous to with a diameter of 8 mm, 8.5 mm

Lake Kasumigaura was origi- Lake Kasumigaura. It appears and 9 mm. One pearl is culturednally part of a system oflakes and probable that mussels were taken in each mussel. The scale of colorrivers that emptied into the Pa- from Lake Biwa within the frame- is broad and includes white, apri-cific Ocean. These lakes were once work of a culturing project and cot, rosd, pink, mauve and violetformed by a deep marine basin released in Lake Kasumigaura. tones. In rare cases, the body tonethatwas separated from the ocean Farmers succeeded in culturing of the pearls may be complement-by sedimentation and tectonic a new mussel that was reputed ed by an additional green, bronzeprocesses in the late Tertiary. The to be more tolerant to pollutedmaximum depth at the moment is water-a cross-breeding between "Kasumigaura" to page 26

.»16'

The International Pearlin# Journal

"Kasumigaura" from page 25 THE ORIGINS OF FWPs lustrated in figure 3), indeed, themethods that can be used are be-

or golden colored upper tone, gen- In this paper the authors coming increasingly difficult toerally found in connection with a present a new, objective method apply.metallic sheen (see figure 2). for determining origins, based One can observe time and

on the chemical composition of again that the Chinese pearlsthe pearls, thus are cheaper than their Japanese

;· Fl>i; I ",·' ' 2' '*'"1'1,6'4 ·),'1,; 7 '/ ',-1, ; 13 permitting the counterparts. After all, there isI : 139:"'rl'-11*'7,+.." Frr : Off/, 1 3,) t#1 clear separation the widespread belief in the re-

offreshwater cul tail sector that a distinction can-I 6 1,1. , · : ,4 „i,.17 -, 1 ' 2'jif-(POf; 1 ,27 -7, a  4 tured pearls from not be made between freshwater 1

']i fUS; (j>,3,9, :. f :1:.0121'.1 I;,4 .' 4 China and Lakecultured pearls from China and

. 0, v ,- Kasumigaura. those from the Kasumigaura re-"'11<011,391:.i<!j?,*7,4-4, .p Freshwater gion. Indeed, it is only possible6 /2: 1 '1* ,1  ) 7, 'F/, / :} · , ' 1' pearls are mar- in a restricted sense using the

keted in a wide methods employed to date in or-range of sizes, der to analyze pearls. Meaning-forms and col- ful evidence is generally accepted

!"t:,l:,1%?2 ' · ''4 1.1 I I **'),4 * ' ·i., ors. The majority to be an X-ray radiograph (Fig.are now cultured 4), as the nuclei of the cultured

h 1'-A<'11*')-3131<*2* L ),  ., 'T   '1 ' '14? Al in China, while pearls from Kasumigaura are

p 1%,1 '"8'p<7 4-,) , 1, N / 8 {91"i,: onlya very small drilled through.proportion areproduced in the

Fig. 2. Bead-nucleated cultured pearls from Lake Kasum- traditional Japa-igaura, Japan, Photograph: Boris Dillenburger. nese freshwater

pearl culturingareas of Kasum-

CFWCPs igaura and Biwa. ,There are only very limited

In the southern, central and ways of making a visual distinc-eastern regions ofChina, there are tion between Japanese and Chi-a large number ofrivers, lakes, wa- nese freshwater cultured pearls Fig. 4. X-ray image of the drilledterways and natural zind artificial (compare the two necklaces il- nucleus in Kasumigaura beadponds available for pearl cultur- nucleated cultured peartsing. In China, the mussels mostcommonly used to culture fresh-water pearls are from the genera /Hyriopsis cumingii and Cristaria & E h Bplicata. In Chinese methods, ap-proximately 30 to 40 pearls can be  cultured for each half of the shell.Pearls are cultured with or with- - _ . 3

out, whereby modern methods ican even culture almost perfectly  round pearls without nuclei.

1AWith each harvest, one canobserve that the quality and size ,have once more been improved.The variety of colors mirrors the jnatural tones of the nacre (moth- Fig. 3. Kasumigaura cultured pearts (below) ander-of-pearl) of Chinese mussels. Chinese freshwater cultured pearls (top)

The International Pearling Journal

Conversely, freshwater cul- 120 seconds. With this method sizes. Within this framework, thetured pearls from China are now of analysis, for example, it is also selected specimens had lengthsprimarily produced without nu- possible to identify any material between 14 and 18 mm and in-clei, or the nuclei are not drilled differences in the specimen (e.g. cluded buttons, circles, round andthrough. However, there is the zoning in the composition of the oval forms in the colors of white,option of using nuclei that have trace elements) and to detect any orange, ros6 and brown. In addi-been drilled through here as well, chemical treatment of pearls. tion, care was taken that the spec-whatever the purpose may be. Ac- This means that with routine imens were taken from differentcordingly, this method is by no validation limits of significantly harvests and from different cul-means sufficient in order to make fewer than one ppm (0.0001 %), turing stations within the Yanaseclear identification. This article up to 20 trace elements can be pearl farm.

- shows it is possible to .make a validated at the same time. The Chinese products wereclear distinction between Chinese purchased from different dealersand Japanese freshwater cultured RESULTS over a longer period oftime, ensur-pearls from Lake Kasumigaura ing that the spread was as wide ason the basis of the significant In order to develop a reli- possible. In total, thirty-nine 39differentes between the composi- able validation of the origins of pearls were analyzed, ranging intions of chemical trace elements freshwater cultured pearls from size from 5 to 14 mm. The colors ofin their nacre. Lake Kasumigaura, we were the Chinese samples varied from

given thirty-nine (39) pearls for white to salmon and ros<i to vio-METHODOLOGY

In this method, a laser mi- 1000croscope is connected with an .inductive, coupled plasma-mass-spectrometer (ICPMS), which .0 0 0means that a laser beam can take 6-0.i. 0.off (ablate) specimen material in 100- •V• * 0 0situ with the aid of a gas current -(generallyAr or He). The material E .. ....:from the specimens is then trans- a. .,4ported to the ICP-MS and ana-  lyzed directly there. This means cn 10- *00that up to twenty (20) chemical .elements can be determined si-multaneously and almost withoutdestruction due to .the minimalerosion caused on the surface of

lillithe specimen. All of these 20 ele-ments are present in a trace con- 0 200 400 600 800 1000

- centration, which according to the Sr (ppm)definition, account for less thanone percent of the weight of thematerial being analyzed. Fig. 5. Kasumigaura pearls (red symbols) show lower and less variable Sr and Ba

A suitable device is available values than Chinese freshwater cultured pearls (blue symbols).at the Institute for Geosciencesin the Johannes Gutenberg Uni-versity of Mainz. The size of the analysis by Boris Dillenburger of let, while the forms encompassedlaser defects drilled in this way Perlen Yukie GmbH, Merzig. All round to drop-shaped, along within our laboratory is typically 0.1 specimens were taken from the circles and buttons.mm and can also be reduced to farm run by Kazuhisa Yanase, As a characteristic property of0.05 mm (compare fig. 4). On av- and care was taken to ensure aerage, an analysis takes around broad spread of colors, forms and "Kasumigaura" to page 28

The International Pearling Journal

"Tucson" from page 11

Tahitian Round Cultured South Sea, White South Sea Culturedmulti-origin Baroque Pearls

9xl 1 mm - Black South Sea, Golden South $8,100 8x9mm White $980White South Sea, Rosd CFWCP 9xllmm White Silver $1,600

10x12mm - Black South Sea, White South Sea, $5,000 - $9,000 9x12mm White -$1,200-$1,500Golden South Sea, Peach/Purple 10.lx5.3mm , White $2,600 QCPWCP 10.3x16.lmm White $3,000 4

lox13 mm - White South Sea; Golden - Tahitian $4,000 - $6,000 10xllmm White $1,00014.4x12mm - White South Sea, Golden South Sea $7,500 11 x14mm White $4,00016.3x13mm - Black South Sea, Golden South Sea, $18,750 11 x15mm White $2,800 - $3,800

White CFWCP 12x14.7mm White $4,50010(15.2mm Silver White $9,000

«tails". However, in time, round pearls will debut. The 12x16.2mm Silver Bluish $5,600available crop is appealing in shape, with wonderful colors 12x16.5mm White $7,700and high luster. 13.7x16.7mm White $13,500

After years of hard work, the Pearl Ministry in French 13x16mm White $20,000Polynesia has achieved a degree of stability in Tahitian pearl 13x17mm White $12,500 iproduction. This yields to a more profitable market. The 16.lx14mm Silver Grey $12,000luster and quality ofthese pearls is excellent. Tahitian South 16.6x15mm White $25,000 8Sea cultured pearls are a strong seller with prices going up k10-15%. Ed.: Our thanks go to Lois for her usual very jBaroque white South Sea cultured pearls are great! The competent coverage of the Tucson Show. Atshapes and colors bounce offthe irregular surfaces and catch press time we received jpegs of many of thethe eye with great appeal. Last year these pearls sold well pearls on display, which we shall try to include iand this year appears the same. in the next issue.

"Kasumigaura" from page 19 The reasons for the chemical mologists with a clear method ofdifferences between the pearls of determining the origins.

freshwater pearls, all of the ana- different provenance are not yetlyzed specimens have high Mn known. However, since the same Address for correspondence: )contents and can be distinguished pearl mussel is used in all three Dr. Dorrit E. Jacobfrom saltwater pearls in this way. localities, a genetic reason can be Institute for Gemstone Research IThe measured concentrations of excluded. Most likely, they mirror Becherweg 21all elements in the two popula- the regional differences in trace Johannes Gutenberg Universitytions overlap, whereby character- element composition in the water D-55099 Mainz, Germanyistically, the Chinese specimens in which the pearl mussels were

tend towards higher concentra- cultured. The water chemistry ACKNOWLEDGEMENTtions of Sr and Ba. is influenced by several factors,

A clear distinction between mainly the water quality (e.g. con- The authors thank Kazuhisa Ya-freshwater cultured pearls from tamination by waste water/sew- nase (Yanase Pearl Limited) and Boris

Lake Kasumigaura and from Chi- age, fertilizers), but also by soil Dillenburger (Perlen Yukie, GmbH,

na can be made on the basis ofthe composition and climate and more Merzig) for the specimen material gen-erously donated. This project wal fund-

measured Ba concentrations (Fig. detailed work will be necessary toed by the research fund ofthe Johannes l

5): Kasumigaura pearls have a sig- enlighten the underlying causes. Gutenberg University, Mainz. 4nificantly lower Ba concentrations However, the chemical differ-and Ba/Sr ratios than Chinese ences between freshwater cultured Ed. And our thanks to Dr. Grahamepearls, which reveal substantially pearls of different provenance are Brown for permitting us to use this ar-higher and more variable ratios. significant and, thus, provide gem- tide from The Australian Gemmologist.

.3

The International Pearting Journal .AFF.

White South Sea Cultured Golden South Sea Cultured Round PearlsRound Pearls

9x10.4mm Round to Golden $3,2009xll.8mm Round $9,000 Off Round9.lx13.2mm Round Off $8,100 9x10.9mm Round Golden Med $5,800

Round 9.3x12.5mm Round Strong Golden $8,50010xll.5mm Round $3,750 9.4x12.8mm Round Golden $7,00010*13mm Round $15,000 10x12mm Round Medium Strong $9,00010.3xll.7mm Round $5,000 Golden11 x13.4mm Round $7,000 10x13.7mm Round Lt Golden $9,00011.8x10.2mm Round $7,000 10x14mm Round Med Golden $5,00012x13.5mm Round $15,000 11 x12.7mm Round Med Golden $4,80012.7x10.2mm Round $7,000 11.lx15.lmm Round Lt Golden $3,20012.96x12mm Round $20,000 12x15mm Round Golden $16,00014x17.2mm Round $25,000 12.65x10.lmm Round Med Golden $10,00014.3xll mm Round $11,000 15.4x12.5mm. Round Strong Golden $20,000

The round South Sea cultivated pearls are a Maurice Alfille; Blanca Arnao; Stewart Robertson;classic. Generally, these pearls are not fast movers. Bo Torrey; Elisabeth Strack; Heidi Harders; SteveHowever, with so many prominent women wearing Bloom; and, Jeremy Norris.South Sea cultured pearls, sales may increase. My special thanks to the dealers who were so veryMedia coverage is good and spotting a South Sea helpful: American Pearl Company; A&Z Pearls, Inc.;pearl necklace on somebody's neck is even better! King's Ransom; Sea Hunt; Pacific Pearls; Tara & Sons,

Inc.; Freeman Gem Company; Eliko Pearl Company,Inc.; Otimo International; Shogun Trading Company;

Golden South Sea Cultured King Plutarco, Inc.; Adachi American Corp.; FrankBaroque Pearls Mastoloni & Sons, Inc.; Imperial-Deltah, Inc.; and,

My Michelle, Ltd. ->9xll.4mm $1,2009.5x13.8mm $2,600 And our thanks to Lois for her ususal diligent reporting.10.2xll.7mm $2,00012x15rnrn $4,000

We saw many golden South Sea cultured pearlsat the Tucson Show. The golden colors rangedfrom very light to a very strong deep golden. Ourawareness of possible treatments peaked. Manyof the dealers discussed color treatment and

- noted that it was on all bills of sale. If necessary,laboratory testing can be done. As mentioned bymany dealers, golden South Sea cultured pearls arenot a fast seller and prices were 10-15% down fromlast yean Some of the assembled Pearl Walk Group, from our annual

The information in this report is intended to Friday amble through the AGTA: (rear, from left to right):provide a cross-section of what is available in the Steven Bloom; Jeremy Norris; Fuji Voll; Bo Torrey;current pearl market at the wholesale level. The (front) Gina Latendresse; Sara Canizarro; Lois Berger;tables listing sizes and pricing are not intended for Heidi Harders; Eve Alfilla; Fred Ward.

grading purposes. Missing from picture: Maurice Alfilld (who took this photo);Renee Newman; Gary Roskin; Blanca Arnao;My sincere thanks to the members of our pearl

Stewart Robertson; and Elisabeth Strack.group: Fuji Voll; Sara Canizarro; Renee Newman;Gina Latendresse; FredWard; Gary Roskin; Eve and

The International Pearlinit Journal

"GIA Symposium" from page 3 ber of pearl farming operations to the market, and productiondecreased from 2,700 registered in 2006 has to date remained

today, where a large variety of in 1998 to only 800 remaining in stable.cultured pearls is available from activity at the end of 2005... halfmany different localities and of ofthem shell producers, the other Joel Schechtermany different types. halfpearl producers.

The competition for market Drastic measures had to beshare between gem producers as taken to ensure stable produc- ed "Chinese Freshwater

 even years ago, we present

well as between different pearl tion and a quality standard for Cultured Pearl Revolution"types is fierce. At the same time, the Tahitian cultured pearl. at the last GIA symposium. Inthere are significant gaps in the Consequently, the French a very controversial session, weexpertise required to grow pearl Polynesian Government estab- predicted the enormous impactoysters and conduct pearl farming lished the Pearl Culture Bureau China would have on the pearlcompared with many other fields in 2001. The aim ofthis organiza- markets.of knowledge. There are very few tion was to enforce strict quality Nearly a decade later, the en-experts today possessing a broad controls and production regula- tire industry has changed. Hugeknowledge on a comprehensive tions on the supply side of the quantities of affordable culturedrange of pearl and pearl farming equation. These included the fol- pearls are now harvested annu-issues. lowing measures: ally - by conservative estimates,

The challenge for the South more than 1,200 tons of fresh-Sea cultured pearl industry today • Limit the number of pearl water cultured pearls were har-is twofold: to produce pearls of a farming concessions vested in 2005 - putting pressuresuperior quality, on the basis of • Limit the number of produc- on other pearl-producing coun-which they can be differentiated tries. The pearl industry is nowtion and export licensesin the wider pearl market, and to in Darwinian "survival of the fit-improve the level of knowledge • Shut down pearl culturing test" mode. Rounder and brighterand understanding of pearls in activity in certain lagoons cultured pearls from China havethe marketplace. • Establish a firm classification totally altered Japan's previous

system aimed at ensuring dominance as the major pearlRobertWan that only a high-quality prod- power. Large sizes are beginning

to affect the South Sea markets.uct enters the world market

The meteoric rise in popu- Even golden and Tahitian pearlslarity of the Tahitian cul- • Impose a strict control on are not immune to China's fury,tured pearlin the 1980s minimum required nacre as improved color enhancements

triggered a veritable boom in thickness for all exported cul- allow freshwater cultured pearlsthe industry. For many years, tured pearls to mimic colors from all over thethis market demand made pearl . Destroy all rejects to prevent globe.farming a lucrative endeavor, but What does the future look liketheir commercial usethe industry reached saturation for the next decade?With 11mm topoint in the year 2000. 14mm bead-nucleated freshwater

Flagrant overproduction and All these regulations, com- pearls beginning to show up in the .lax quality control, combined bined with an effective market- marketplace, China appears to bewith a slowdown in the world ing program conducted by the taking even sharper aim at Southeconomy, meant that the Tahitian non-profit GTE Perles de Tahiti, Sea pearl producers. And whilepearl industry suffered a serious resulted in marked increases in the quantities harvested in Chinasetback. Suddenly, pearl farming the total value of Tahitian cul- continue to rise, can anything bewas no longer a viable activity. tured pearl exports of 14 percent done to support pricing? Are more

According to the official fig- in 2004 and 16 percent in 2005, affordable cultured pearls a goodures from the French Polynesian accompanied by trading price in- thing for the market as a whole?Pearl Culture Bureau, this glut creases of 30 percent from 2003 Interestingly, China's exportscaused many pearl farms to close to 2004 and 20 percent from 2004 are rising dramatically, but totaland others to consolidate. to 2005. revenues have not kept up. Fall-

In only seven years, the num- Confidence has been restored ing prices have hurt many of the

The International Pearting Journal .milgrowers badly, creating a -sell it vant as long as companies create those that are less attractive isbefore it drops further" mentality. distinct brand experiences that great. Treatments often appliedAll this continues to put financial appeal to a discerning consumen to cultured pearls include bleach-pressure on the country's market. This is not limited to the high ing, dyeing, irradiation, coatingWhile China produces 95 percent end, as it extends across all price and heating. Some of these canof the world's cultured pearls, points. be identified with standard gem-pearl associations estimate it Companies must clearly de- mological testing. For example,keeps only about 8 percent of the fine and market their brand es- in many cases, evidence of dyerevenue they ultimately generate sence, strive for differentiation, or a coating can be readily seen- an amazing statistic. and target their audience with with magnification. In others, the

To keep prices up, China precision. advanced instrumentation of-needs to tackle the issues sur- Defining one's brand essence fered by a well-equipped labora-rounding the low image of its cul- can take many forms, but it must tory, such as UV-Vs refiectancetured pearls. Better processing, remain clear and consistent over spectroscopy, may be required toimproved marketing and elimina- time. There are many examples determine the presence of dye intion of low-end products are vital of established Houses that have some "golden" cultured pearls. Into support higher values for the successfully reinvented them- addition, an array of compositesmarket. selves, such as Burberry, as well is available.

as newly created brands that are Although the treatment ofMeyer Hoffman aggressively targeting Genera- cultured pearls has not received

tions K and Y, like Abercrombie focused attention within the in-ver the years, the retail & Fitch. dustry, history shows that theselandscape has undergone Creating differentiation is treatments will eventually be de-many changes. Consum- crucial for today's retail environ- bated and pressure will be placed

ers have become savvier and ment. There are too many look- on laboratories, dealers and re-more demanding, retailers have alike products or generic copies tailers alike to identify and dis-created an "environment" or buy- that offer no added value and, close them. Indeed, the debateing experience to attract these so- consequently, are not appealing has already begun within indus-phisticated consumers, and man- to an affluent audience. In today's try organizations such as CIBJOufacturers and suppliers have highly competitive marketplace, With such a large choice indeveloped appealing "brands" to where product life cycles are get- untreated and treated culturedset themselves apart from the ting shorter, it is imperative that pearls available, it is essentialcompetition. The most promi- successful brands strive to create that the industry be able to ex-nent examples can be found in a point of difference. plain the different products to thethe apparel industry, where lead- Finally, attracting a well-de- public. Education needs to keeping fashion designers have truly fined audience will ensure that up with advanqes in culturing,captured the hearts and wallets companies achieve increasing manufacturing and treatmentof the high-end consumer with sales and sustain a profitable processes, and laboratories needstrong brand identities and dis- business model. Generational to develop reporting systems thattinct product assortments. More marketing, including psycho- properly describe this importantrecently, apparel retailers have graphic profiling, is.one aspect of product. *created their own brand sig- defining and attracting the mostnificance by setting themselves appropriate audience for your Ed: If we refuse to beat on .thisapart from the high-end fashion product. matter any more, perhaps it willworld with innovative store con- eventually go away. Many still feelcepts and individually developed Kenneth Scarratt the same (even after reading all thisproduct lines. prose): that if the GIA really wants

These examples are not, of s with other gem materi- to do something of importance incourse, unique to apparel; they A.ls, some cultured pearls the pearl world, it certainly has theextend across most industries, in- are rarer or otherwise capability to do so. And that thecluding cultured pearls. Although more desirable than others. This time is right for another convocationit has evolved over the years, this being the case, the desire to al- of pearl producers, wholesalers,industry will only remain rele- ter or improve the appearance of retailers and technical experts.

The International PearlinE Journal

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