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Fall 2015 Issue of Pairings
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FALL 2015
PairingsA COMPANION PUBLICATION TO HEART OF OHIO MAGAZINE
FlavorFrom first sip to last bite
170 Summerset Dr. | Ashland, Ohio 44805 | 419.281.1187 | watersedgeashland.com
WEDDINGS • BUSINESS MEETINGS • PARTIES • HOLIDAYS • SOCIAL GATHERINGS
We offer Boxed Lunches for Pick-Up or Delivery.A meal prepared to perfection with a variety of Bella Bleu’s specialty items. Family recipes make Bella’s meals all that more special with � avors to satisfy and keep you coming back for more!
Check out our complete lunch menu at bellableus.com.
Water’s Edge is Also available for
Fine Dining & More
@
Enjoy a lakeside experience with outdoor seating when weather permits, while our Hearthside Room is comfortable during the colder seasons with the ambiance of a warm � replace. Our Bistro Room is great for special small parties or watching games with TV access beside the bar area.
Contents 03 | Navigating a Fine Dining
Wine List
07 | Wine on the Way to the Lake
13 | Wine SpeakA Toast...Hear, Hear!
04 | Ashland's Bella Bleu's
10 | The Wine Wranglers RideAgain...and Again
FALL 2015
PublisherSunGraphics, Inc.
Diane K. Brown, President
EditorAdelyn Belsterling
Sales & MarketingMike Greene
Diane Brown
Contributing WritersAdelyn Belsterling
Diana L. Coon
Mike Greene
Donniella Winchell
Graphic DesignerBarbie Waters
CirculationMichelle Fredmonsky-Harvey
Becky Herrick
Pairings is printed and published
biannually by SunGraphics, Inc.
41 Longview Ave. E., Mansfield, Ohio 44903
Copyright 2015, Heart of Ohio Magazine,
LLC. ISSN 2158-8732. All rights reserved.
Reproduction or use of editorial or pictorial
content in any manner is prohibited
without written permission. SunGraphics,
Inc. and Heart of Ohio Magazine, LLC
accept no responsibility for unsolicited
material. While ensuring that all published
information is accurate, the publisher
cannot be held responsible for mistakes
and/or omissions. Distributed through local
retailers, advertisers and by subscription.
There are few things that go so well with Heart of Ohio as Pairings magazine. So, back
by popular demand, we bring you the sixth issue of Pairings. In these pages you will find
an assortment of pairings which prove that Ohio has great flavor — from the first sip, to the
last bite.
As the wine industry grows in our region, so do restaurants’ already dauntingly long
wine lists. Doniella will help you tackle those wine lists, and their often confusing terms, to
find the perfect vino to suit your tastes, and your entrée.
Mike takes us to Bella Bleu’s of Ashland, where “Gourmet Everyday” cuisine pairs oh so
well with a great selection of regional wine. In his story, “Wine Wranglers”, Mike will also
show us that wine’s best pairing of all is good friends.
I’ll be sharing a pair of wine destinations ripe for an afternoon of fall fun in “Wine Off the
Lake”, and our issue ends, not with dessert, but with a toast. Last, but never least, Diana
shares the history of toasts in her column “Winespeak”.
And here’s one more pairing for you: this magazine pairs great with a glass of wine!
From the Editor
Adelyn Belsterling, Editor
Visit: heartofohiomagazine.comto give us your contact information.
Let's keep in touch
2 pairings heartofohiomagazine.com/pairings
FINE DINING WINE LISTWhile the growing wine culture in Ohio
makes of us comfortable with wine as a
beverage, often we are still intimidated
by the pages of wines offered in upscale
restaurants whose wine lists are more like
tomes than lists. So here are a couple of
hints to help you the next time you find
yourself in that situation.
Find a grape variety you know:
Rieslings, Gewürztraminers and Pinot
Grigios will likely have a hint of sweetness
and be fresh and fruity. Pinot Gris, on the
other hand, will probably be a little drier and
perhaps have a hint of oak. Chardonnays
will usually be identified as oaked or
unoaked. If you like a fresher style, opt for
the latter. Pinot Noirs and Cabernets will
likely be dry, the former with more fruit, the
later with more complexity.
Find keywords in the descriptions.
“Mellow” likely connotes considerable
sweetness. “Soft” indicates low tannins.
“Bright” or “fresh” indicate considerable
fruitiness. Ditto for “fruit-forward”. “Full
bodied” means it is likely complex.
“Complex” again refers to reds more than
whites (except perhaps for Chardonnay).
“Dry” does not mean sour, but it does
indicate a lack of any sweetness. “Intense”
probably means lots of complexity.
Determine your entrée choice. Match
light meals with white or rosé wines,
heavier dishes with reds. Rich sauces
call for wines with a little more acid (like
Rieslings) or intensity (like Cabernets).
Desserts match with wines that are either
somewhat sweet (like cheesecake and ice
wine) or quite opposite (Cabernets with
chocolates).
Ask your waitstaff. Share what you
usually drink and they can guide you to
something that matches your palate and
expectations. You might not want to ask
them for their favorites. Their potential “dry
palate” preference might steer you away
from a wine that works for you if your palate
is “sweeter”.
After considering all of the above,
select something in a middle price range.
Often restaurants will mark up the low end
wines proportionally higher than those in
the mid- to high-price categories. Often, a
wine priced just above the average of all on
the list will be a better bargain in terms of
quality and style than those in the lowest
categories.
In any case, once the wine arrives, pour
a little, swirl your glass to release the various
aromas, take just a little sip, and savor it as
you wait for the arrival of your entrée.
Find keywords in the descriptions. "Bright" "Full Bodied" "Mellow" "Intense"
Navigating a
by Donniella Winchell
heartofohiomagazine.com/pairings pairings 3
Her interests have always centered
around food preparation and presentation.
Rita began her culinary career in the
catering business. She told me she was sort
of a one-woman show. While catering is still
a significant part of what she does, much of
her time for the last year and a half has been
consumed with Bella Bleu’s, located just
north of Ashland off of State Route 58.
Why the name? Well, Bella pays homage
to Grandma Isabelle (everyone called her
Rita Edwards loves to work. The
owner and executive chef of one
of North Central Ohio’s newer
establishments for fine dining was raised
that way. Rita was born and has lived her
entire life in Ashland. Parents John and
Peg Edwards and grandparents Isabelle
and John Nardini were the examples she
followed whens it came to developing that
strong work ethic.
Belle) and to Rita’s Labrador Retriever,
who died a year ago. Bleu is a reference to
the water which is so much a part of the
ambiance of the place. It is, after all, at the
Water’s Edge. Why is Bleu spelled with
the “e” before the “u”? Simply so that you
would ask the questions. It’s a conversation
starter.
The location is in an area that was
once a swimming destination for many
Ashlanders: Lake Silverstone. Since
Photos curtesy of DRM Productions and Todd Whitmer Creative Services
4 pairings heartofohiomagazine.com/pairings
paddling under the water.” The staff that
works with Rita at Bella Bleu’s paddles, at
times quite rapidly, but they are all heading
in the same direction.
The menu at Bella Bleu’s is what Rita
describes as American cuisine which is
given additional flair with special items.
Unique family recipes are the secret to many
of her dishes. You will find many specialty
soups, salads and sandwiches for lunch,
and several dinner favorites such as Asian
salmon en papillote, chicken marsala and
beef brisket, along with delectable desserts
that melt in your mouth. The newest
addition to their menu is gourmet pizza.
This is most definitely a different style of
pizza with a unique blend of flavors. Its
creator is a restaurant veteran who calls
himself “California Jim”. He once lived and
worked in the Ashland area, left for a few
years, and came back. But he does more
than just prepare pizzas. In fact, Rita says
his experience in the food industry gives
him the versatility that is an important factor
to Bella Bleu's success.
Rita told me that when she is
interviewing potential staff members, she
she was going to be pleased if 20 visitors a
day came through the doors, because that
would pay the bills. Well, this new dining
destination did a lot more than that. In the
first few weeks they were open, Bella Bleu’s
at the Water’s Edge welcomed 60, 70 and
sometimes 100 guests a day. They showed
up to try out the new kid on the block.
Rita’s extensive experience in the food
service industry has allowed her to prepare
and prep for the larger groups, as well as the
couples who have learned about this new
culinary destination. They often stop by to
see if what their friends told them is true.
Bella Bleu’s officially opened in early 2014,
and they have built a steady following from
the locals, as well as from others who come
from all around this part of Ohio.
Rita loves her work and she is extremely
competitive, which drives her to make sure
the dining experience at her place is exactly
what the guests expect. She expanded on
that point as we sat looking out on the lake,
saying, “A restaurant that is floundering
looks like the ducks on the lake outside.
They look smooth on top of the water but
you can’t imagine how fast their feet are
the structure, which was once a private
residence, sat next to the lake,
Rita decided to formally name the
complex Bella Bleu’s at the Water’s Edge
Event Center. I told you earlier that catering
was going to remain a big part of Rita’s
business plan, and it is. They do weddings,
parties, social events and more. But we’re
going to focus on the restaurant part of the
operation for the purposes of this article.
Rita collaborated on the design, or
redesign, of the building with the contractor
and a local interior designer to make Bella
Bleu’s a memorable destination venue.
Basically, what Rita wanted was for those
who visited to come away saying “Wow, I
feel like I was at home.” In fact, she calls
that the biggest compliment anyone who
dines at Bella Blue’s can give her.
As you’ll read in one of the Bella Bleu’s
brochures, Rita’s approach is what she calls
“Gourmet Everyday”, a style which she has
perfected over the course of the 40 years
that she has been in the food preparation
business. The rapid growth in the number
of those dining at Bella Bleu’s has surprised
even the owner. Rita said that early on
One of the reasons Rita and her staff are so enthusiastic ...is that when they talk about fresh foods, they mean it.
heartofohiomagazine.com/pairings pairings 5
be sure to read the “Wine Wranglers” story
in this very edition of Pairings.
One of the reasons Rita and her staff are
so enthusiastic about their workplace is that
when they talk about fresh foods, they mean
it. Just outside the front door and around
the corner, Bella Bleu’s garden grows. When
they harvest it to prepare your meal, they
can select from their own herbs, spices and
vegetables. Rita is especially proud of the
tomatoes which are used in so many items
on the menu.
Bella Bleu’s is a unique lakeside
experience, which allows them to offer
is always looking for someone who is better
at the food business than she is. If they
come close to bringing that cooking flair
with them, Rita knows they will also bring
their own food ideas with them, whether it’s
soups, sauces or a new twist on an entree
already on the menu.
With the success of lunch, Bella Bleu’s
has expanded into evening dining, as well
as Sunday brunch. With that comes an
entirely different menu and an extensive
selection of fine wines to complement
the dinner meals. If you’re interested in
knowing a bit more about Bella Bleu’s wines,
visit bellableus.com for hours, menu, directions and more information
unique outdoor seating when the weather
permits. There’s still time to enjoy that
lakeside dining even though they’re closing
in on those fall days where you may prefer
the coziness and comfort of the Hearthside
Room, the centerpiece of which is a working
fireplace. For hours, menu, directions and
more information, visit bellableus.com.
Once you read about it, your taste buds will
demand that your next dining destination
be Bella Bleu’s at the Water’s Edge. Don’t
trust me, trust Rita Edwards and her staff.
$ MG
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and Gammie, and a partnership
was born. Quarry Hill Winery purchased
the property from the orchard and vines
were planted across four acres of land.
The business started off to a great
success with Quarry Hill wines flying off
the shelves in the storefront at Quarry Hill
Orchard. In that time, the Ohio’s wine
tourism grew, and after five years in the
business, people were clamoring to visit
the winery as a destination.
To meet the discerning tastes of
traveling wine connoisseurs, Quarry Hill
Winery built a 4,000-square-foot building to
house both its wine production and a wine
bar to accommodate the daily visitors.
Being that the vineyard sits 100 feet above
the surrounding area, the wine bar boasts
existing operation such as a vineyard or
orchard, and form a partnership from there.
As luck would have it, McLelland
found Quarry Hill Orchards, a family farm
that sat high above the surrounding area.
The vineyard’s peak is 834 feet above sea
level. The elevation and sandy soil, due to
its proximity to Lake Erie, made the land
ideal for growing grapes and other fruit. It
seemed like a perfect fit to both McLelland
Quarry Hill Winery
The first vineyard to stop at
to get in the spirit of fall is Quarry
Hill Winery in Berlin Heights, Ohio.
The vineyard, established in 2005, was a
collaboration between local vintner, Mac
McLelland, and Bill Gammie, owner of
Quarry Hill Orchards.
McLelland was in the wine business for
seven years before he decided to set out on
his own. When he first began the process
of starting his own winery, he decided
it made most sense to find an already
To me, nothing says fall like a glass of red wine, a warm sweater, and a great view to go with it. Fall is also crush time for vineyards, where grapes are brought in from the field and the barrelling process begins. In a celebration of this exciting time in the year for winemaking, we bring you a pair of wine destinations right off the coast of Lake Erie that are surely worth the trip for the wine and the colorful display of vines in their fall color.
Photo by Chris Pudzer
Photo by Chris Pudzer
Photo by Gary Weiss
heartofohiomagazine.com/pairings pairings 7
trip to the wine bar at Quarry Hill Winery
cannot be missed this fall. For hours,
menus, directions, and further information,
visit www.quarryhillwinery.org.
Paper Moon Vineyards
About ten miles from Quarry Hill
Vineyard is the second stop on our fall
tour: Paper Moon Vineyards. Less than two
miles from Lake Erie, this scenic vineyard
sits in the woods just west of the historic
harbour town of Vermilion, Ohio.
Owner/winemaker, Adam Cawrse,
comes from a long line of family business
owners. For four generations, his family
has worked for themselves. The story
of their business began with Richard
Cawrse, Sr., who returned from WWII and
bought a dairy business with his father.
The dairy operated for 36 years with an
extensive home delivery service and four
neighborhood stores.
Red is their most popular, and a wine that
shouldn’t be missed. This red blend is well
balanced with a sweet jammie flavor. Their
Cabernet Franc will appeal to lovers of dry
reds, but their second most popular is the
Riesling. In keeping with their orchard
roots, they have a selection of fruit wines
which include an Apple Wine that’s perfect
for a cool fall afternoon.
With good food, great wine, and a
regular rotation of live entertainment, a
stunning views of the landscape with
indoor and outdoor seating for the milder
months. On a clear day, guests can even
see Lake Erie in the distance. The wine bar
features a tasting menu with light foods to
pair with their selection of wines. Guests
can also get a look at the barrel cellar and
viewing area to catch a glimpse of the
winemaking process.
Quarry Hill Winery has fifteen varietals
of wine, so there is something to be had
for every taste. The Buckeye
Paper Moon Vineyards
New this year, Paper Moon Vineyards
has created their very own hard cider.
Crafted from local apples, this beverage
with all the flavors of fall will be served in
house. But soon, even more will people be
able to enjoy the delights of Paper Moon
Vineyards. They plan to eventually can the
drink to be sold at local retailers.
In case you don’t already have enough
reason to make the trip to Paper Moon
Vineyards, they also host a variety of
events throughout the season. With live
music, wineglass painting classes, and
major events held the second Saturday of
each month, there is always something to
do. This fall, keep an eye out for their Clam
Bake, Oktoberfest, and Pig Roast.
For more information on these events,
in season hours and more, visit www.
papermoonvineyards.com.
$ AB
courtyard to get a commanding view of
the vineyard and pond. Inside the main
building, guest can enjoy a glass of wine
in the tasting room. Paper Moon serves
a variety of seasonal menu items that
pair well with their wines. Familiar items
include paninis, flatbread pizzas, bread and
dipping oil, cheese plates, and hummus.
In the spirit of fall, guests may like to try
the Silver Lining Dry Riesling. This small
lot wine is made from local hand-picked
riesling grapes, and only about 200 cases
are produced each year. It is a dry wine
with a vibrant acidity that pairs well with
the rich foods on the seasonal Oktoberfest
menu.
A favorite among red drinkers, the
Sailor’s Red is a prize winner for Paper
Moon. The wine took home a silver medal
at the 2014 Indy International Wine
Competition. It is a lightly oaked, dry red
wine blend of Chambourcin, Marquette
and Noiret grapes from their own vineyard.
Open to the public for dinner � ursday, Friday
and Saturday from 4 to 9pm; wine bar open til 10pm. Try our own Wishmaker Wine!
116 Main Street | Bellville, Ohio419.886.9463
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A relaxing getaway in Bellville, the heart of mid Ohio
From there, the dairy business evolved
into an even bigger operation. Richard
Cawrse, Jr. joined with both his father and
grandfather to form an institutional food
service corporation they called Clovervale
Foods. Clovervale Foods serviced many
school systems nationwide for many years,
but in 2006, Richard Cawrse, Jr. and his son
Adam sold the business.
Adam and his parents, being the
consummate workers they are, couldn’t
stay idle after the sale of the business.
In college, Adam spent a summer in
France, and the experience gave him an
appreciation for great wine and a passion
for the art and science of winemaking.
They were already making wine at home,
so the next logical step for the family was
to plant a vineyard and build a winery.
They bought the property for Paper
Moon Vineyards in 2006, and in 2008, they
had their first planting. Over 4,000 vines
were planted across five of the fifty acres of
property. They began producing award-
winning wines from carefully selected
grapes of other vineyards, and welcomed
their first vintage of estate-grown grapes
in 2012.
Part of the Cawrse family’s reason for
building a vineyard was to create a place
for adults to come relax and rejuvenate with
a glass of great wine. From the covered
patio, guests can look out over the grassy
WA friend of mine
in Ashland, Bill
Harvey, is a CPA
with a taste for
the grape; in other
words, he loves his
wine. Before I go
any further, and
in the interests of
full disclosure, I
will tell you that
Bill is a partner
at Whitcomb &
Hess and they
have been one of
the advertisers in
each and every
edition of Pairings. I write this story, not
so much as a thank you for their support,
but to show you how his passion for wine
has grown over three decades into a
continuing search for new and different
ways to enjoy it.
Bill told me that his first exposure
to wine came when he was around 30
years of age, and it happened in the form
of a television commercial for Riuniti
wine. As he told me this, he broke into
his own musical version of the jingle
“Riuniti on ice… Riuniti so nice”. I
quickly told him that I remembered
the jingle in hopes he would not sing it
again, which he didn’t. That particular
brand could be found in the cooler at a
pizza parlor he frequented. He took a
bottle home with his 14-inch pizza pie,
and the saga of the grape in the Harvey
household was born.
It wasn’t long before he had
graduated from Riuniti to a Beringer
White Zinfandel, then to a Kendall
Jackson Chardonnay. According
to Harvey, once his taste buds had
adjusted to one white wine, he would
try a different type the next time, and
eventually he tried that first red wine and
his taste buds just exploded.
In an article
on enjoying
wine, wine writer
Thomas Karman
writes, “The
enjoyment of wine
is far more than
the mere ingestion
of alcohol; it can
— and should —
be a feast for the
senses.” That is
how Bill Harvey
sees it. A dinner
or social event
built around wine
should be both
educational and fun.
Several years ago Bill organized a
group of friends who shared the same
interest in wine and food as he and
his wife, Cindy. They decided to get
together on a semi-regular basis and
enjoy a meal at one of the couples’
houses, or at an area restaurant that
featured wine on the menu. For the
purposes of this article, we will call them
The Wine Wranglers.
Some of those reading this story
may know the other members of the
group (all from Ashland), but for the rest
who don’t, I’ll share their names with
Bill Harvey (back left) and the rest of the Wine Wranglers
THE WINE WRANGLERS R I D EAGAIN… and AGAIN
10 pairings heartofohiomagazine.com/pairings
permission: Kris and Stephanie Clark,
Greg and Beth Gault, Scott and Karen
Gerwig, and Roger and
Amy Kramer. The first
of the Wine Wrangler
get-togethers took place
about four years ago.
They decided that each
dinner would have a
theme.
For example, one of
the recent dinners which
was held at the Gerwigs’
home was called “Iberian
Peninsula Night”. The Iberian
Peninsula extends into the Atlantic
Ocean from both Portugal and Spain,
and they produce
some wonderful wines
in both countries.
Interestingly enough,
the #1 wine of 2014 on
Wine Spectator’s list
was from Portugal.
In support of the
theme, the foods
and wines featured
at each meal come
from the countries
featured. Bill Harvey
did say that the rules
of the road stop just
short of requiring that all guests must
dress in the local garb of those countries
referenced in the theme. If that were not
the case, you can imagine how difficult
it would be to find outfits for “Mongolian
Merlot Night”.
In order to be a Wine Wrangler
host, you must also agree to do your
homework, because the person in
charge is expected to give a report on
the wine and a culinary history of the
geographical area or country being
saluted. I imagine it to be a sort of book
report with giggles. The domestic wine 1020 Cleveland Ave. | Ashland, OH 44805
CPAs & Financial Advisors…
a great pairing.William Harvey, CPA419.289.7007 | [email protected]
industry has also been featured. There
have been California Cab and Oregon
Pinot Noir parties, and
sometimes, according
to Bill, they have what
he termed “free for all”
nights. I didn’t ask
for the details of that
event.
As I said earlier,
some of the Wine
Wranglers celebrations
are held at restaurants
in and around Ashland.
This past July, three of the
couples ventured to Bella Bleu’s,
which is featured in this issue of
Pairings. They have
a fairly extensive
selection of wines,
and their menu offers
suggestions as to
which wines pair
well with the items
they’re featuring.
A good time was
once again had by all
who attended that
night out, and none
more than Bill. His
knowledge of wine
has certainly grown
through the years, although he still calls
himself a Connoisseur of Wannabe. He
doesn’t offer dramatic descriptions
after a wine tasting — you know, those
designed to make others think that
you’re more schooled in wine selection
than you really are. They usually go
something like this: “I get it on my nose:
leather, chocolate, earth and jam with a
hint of peanut butter,” they say as they
slowly fan the imaginary scents toward
their nostrils.
To conclude this story about
Ashland’s Wine Wranglers, I am going
to once again borrow some lines from
Thomas Karman’s article on wine basics.
This time the words are in a poetic form.
If you’re in the mood
Wine compliments food
For every dish
From rib roast to fish
Taste is important
Change is constant
So don’t be a dork
And go pop a cork
Whatever the reason
No matter what season
To really feel fine
It’s got to be wine!
$ MG
"The enjoyment of wine is far
more than the mere ingestion of alcohol: it can -and should- be a feast for
the senses."writer, Thomas Karman
heartofohiomagazine.com/pairings pairings 11
1700 55TH ST NE, CANTON, OH 44721 WWW.GERVASIVINEYARD.COM
330.497.1000
TASTE STAYDINE
Celebrate Life!A T G E R V A S I V I N E Y A R D
Coming Soon!Spring 2016
We will be launching FOCUS: a special interest, companion publication to the March/April issue of Heart of Ohio magazine.
12 pairings heartofohiomagazine.com/pairings
Wine SpeakBrush up on your wine vocabulary with this tidbit of wine-related terms.
No one enjoys their traditions more
than Americans. Whether we are
welcoming new neighbors with a plate of
fresh cookies, or preparing a huge dinner
after a funeral service, we are a nation
focused on marking our traditions with
food and drink.
Every event is different, but one thing
that seems to be a constant at most
gatherings is the toast. Where did that
particular tradition come from, and why do
we make toasts anyway?
The word ‘toast’ actually came from the
practice of putting a piece of burned bread
in a jug of wine. The charcoal actually
reduced the acidity of slightly off wines,
making them more palatable. Waste not,
want not.
limited the intake of alcohol. Toastmasters
clubs still exist today.
As much as things have changed
through the centuries, the tradition
remains. Today a toast offered at a dinner
party is usually made by the host at the
beginning of the meal. Additional toasts
may be made by guests during the dessert
course. The customary clink of glasses is
nice, but simply making eye contact and
nodding is acceptable and may be more
practical at a large gathering. The object
of the toast does not stand, nor does he/
she drink. When the toast is finished, a
simple thank you is in order.
Raising a glass in toast is as much a
part of our celebrations today as it was
hundreds of years ago, and I believe it
always will be. Here’s to your health!
$ DC
Some historians believe the clinking
of glasses during the toast was designed
to drive away demons and ghosts from
ancient celebrations. Others say the
clanking of glasses sloshed the contents
from one glass to another, thus eliminating
any fear the guests might have harbored of
being poisoned by the host.
The ancient Greeks offered libations
to appease the gods in their rituals. The
Romans believed so strongly in drinking
to health that the Senate passed a decree
stating everyone must drink to Emperor
Augustus at every meal. Today, “To your
health” is still the most common toast
worldwide.
By the seventeenth and eighteenth
centuries, toasts had become so elaborate
and intoxicating that the service of a
Toastmaster was required. This newly
created job kept guests from toasting
everyone in the room and somewhat
A Toast... Hear, Hear!
The best or nothing.
for life
Now it gets interesting.
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