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Fall 2014 issue of Pairings
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FALL 2014
PairingsA COMPANION PUBLICATION TO HEART OF OHIO MAGAZINE
Setting the sunon another great
summer
ContentsFALL 2014
01 | Sharing the Bounty Hosting a Wine Tasting Party
13 | Tradition on Tap Phoenix Brewing Company
05 | Degrees of Excellence Viticulture & Enology at Kent State
10 | Magic & Charm on Lake Erie Mon Ami Restaurant & Historic Winery
03 | It's Only a Paper Moon A Private Tasting with Paper Moon Winery
15 | Gentile on Your Wine Roger Gentile
17 | Wine SpeakOenophobia — the fear of wine 07 | Some Cues for Pool
Table Restoration
photograph by Jason Joseph Photographysee below
JASON M. JOSEPH has been producing commercial,
editorial, wedding and portrait photography for over 14
years. His work has been featured on Good Morning
America and the Oprah Winfrey Network, and has been
published in The Wall Street Journal.
Jason's photo's are featured in the article, "It's Only a
Paper Moon" in this issue of Pairings.
Jason Joseph Photography is located in Dublin, Ohio.
To discuss your project, call 614-315-4045, or visit on the
web at jasonjosephphotography.net and on Facebook.
If you attended some of Ohio’s
summer wine festivals, you
probably brought home a bottle
or two in the process. Now, with the
heat of the summer behind us, the
cooler evenings offer a perfect time
to plan a wine tasting party! Here
are some suggestions as you prepare
your get together.
To expand your collection, you
could invite your guest to BYOB. In
any case, it is best to select four or
five wines of a single varietal (grape
type) or color so comparisons will be
easier for the newbies in your group.
If you choose a flight of whites, each
bottle should be chilled for several
hours before serving. Reds should
be served at about 60 degrees (i.e.,
cellar temperature, not actual room
temperature), so put them on ice for
a half hour or so. If you choose to
mix colors, varieties, vintage dates or
sweetness levels, plan to serve whites
before reds, lighter-bodied vintages
before heavier ones; pour dry before
sweet, young wines before older ones.
Glasses are important. Choose
plain, stemmed ones with a thin rim
or “bead”. Colored bowls, intricate
decorations and a thick bead detract
from the experience. A stem allows the
wine to be easily swirled, and keeps it
at an optimum temperature. If a red is
too cold, the bowl can be “cupped” to
warm the wine ever so slightly.
If you can, taller tulip-shaped
glasses work best for whites and large
open “bowls” are recommended for
reds. The various shapes of the glass
deliver wine to different parts of the
mouth where the tongue has sweet,
salt, tart, protein and bitter sensors
clustered on its surface. If only one
glass style is available, tulip-shaped
glasses are generally the best choice.
Spread a plain white tablecloth. A
simple background will allow tasters
to evaluate color and intensity. Supply
notepaper so guests can compare
notes and discuss favorites.
Pour only 2-3 ounces of wine so
it can be swirled to release all of the
aromatics and no one over-imbibes.
During the tasting, serve simple
breads and relatively neutral cheeses
to clear the palate between varieties.
Provide some tasting tips and
techniques for your guests:
OBSERVE THE COLOR by
tilting the glass against the simple
background. The wine should be clear
without foreign matter. White wines
range from nearly colorless to golden
in hue. Younger wines may have a
greenish cast; more mature wines take
on the color of straw. Oak-aged whites
are darker than those made in stainless
tanks. Young reds should show hints
of purple and violet. As reds mature,
they become cherry-like in color, and,
as they age, will exhibit shades of
brick. Blush or rosé wines will display
soft pink colors or pale red undertones.
SWIRL THE WINE. Sweet wines
and more full bodied ones will cling to
the side, forming ‘”legs”, while lighter,
drier wines usually have no legs.
SMELL THE WINE to observe the
“nose”. Young wines emit fresh and
fruity aromas. The bouquet of older
wines is more complex. Depending
on the variety and age, white wines
release citrus, apricot, melon, honey
or pineapple aromas. Older reds may
remind the taster of toast, coffee, tea,
tobacco, cloves or bell peppers. Wines
aged in oak often acquire vanilla-like
characteristics.
SMELL THE WINE BEFORE AND
AFTER SWIRLING. The contrast and
intensity levels are usually dramatic,
as the aeration releases aromas.
Only then should everyone TASTE
THE WINE by sloshing it around in
their mouths to expose all the taste
buds to the entire sample. Flavors
should be balanced, with the fruit, acids
and sweetness working in harmony.
Astringent wine is unpleasant; cloying
syrupiness is equally offensive.
Finally, the wine should leave
a lasting, overall impression called
“finish”. This rather nebulous term
describes the length of time aromas
and flavors linger in the mind and on
the palate. A long finish is desirable
and usually connotes a better wine.
When the wine rack is empty, it’s
time to plan a trip to another Ohio
winery! $
For additional information:
by Donniella WinchellSHARING THE BOUNTY
heartofohiomagazine.com/pairings pairings 1
PublisherSunGraphics, Inc.
Diane K. Brown, President
EditorDiana L. Coon
Sales & MarketingMike Greene
Diane Brown
Contributing WritersDiana L. Coon
Mike Greene
Donniella Winchell
Siera Marth
Graphic DesignerTom Hofacre
CirculationMichelle Fredmonsky-Harvey
Becky Herrick
Pairings is printed and published
biannually by SunGraphics, Inc.
41 Longview Ave. E., Mansfield, Ohio 44903
Copyright 2014, Heart of Ohio Magazine,
LLC. ISSN 2158-8732. All rights reserved.
Reproduction or use of editorial or pictorial
content in any manner is prohibited
without written permission. SunGraphics,
Inc. and Heart of Ohio Magazine, LLC
accept no responsibility for unsolicited
material. While ensuring that all published
information is accurate, the publisher
cannot be held responsible for mistakes
and/or omissions. Distributed through local
retailers, advertisers and by subscription.
“Wine makes every meal an occasion, every table more elegant, every day more
civilized.” – Andre Simon
In this fall issue of Pairings, we want to introduce you to Roger Gentile, wine critic,
teacher, wine seller and author. He sat down not too long ago to discuss his career, his love
of wine and to share his knowledge… you are the lucky recipient of that interview.
“Degrees of Excellence” is our first article from Siera Marth. I know you’ll enjoy it, and
we can all look forward to more articles from this talented young woman.
Mansfield’s newest brewery is now open in one of the city’s oldest buildings… read
“Tradition on Tap” to learn about this new business venture in middle of the downtown.
The Lake Erie wine country is well represented in this issue. We visited Mon Ami
Restaurant and Winery in Port Clinton, and accepted an invitation to a wine tasting get
together in that same town.
Please take the time to sit back, relax and savor this fall edition of Pairings just as you do
your favorite wine.
Diana L. Coon, Editor
From the Editor
Preserve the fruits of your labor with an insurance program designed speci cally to
address exposures inherent in the wine industry.
800.755.7363 – Ask for Nancy Them44 Sturges Avenue | Mansfi eld, OH 44902
www.rfmeins.com
is your business
Winee
2 pairings heartofohiomagazine.com/pairings
Paper MoonPhotography by
Jason Joseph Photography
It’s only a
Nothing says “good times” like a gathering of friends around your table.That’s the kind of evening Karen
and Jim Ruth created at their
retreat in Port Clinton when they
invited their friend, Cheryl Cawrse
to conduct a private wine tasting
for their group. Cheryl is President
and owner of Paper Moon Winery in
Vermilion, Ohio.
As the group was seated, Cheryl
explained this would be a clock
tasting. The plates before them
were arranged, beginning at twelve
o’clock, with four different types
of tasty items to pair with four
different wines. In the center of the
plate, a cookie waited to be enjoyed
with the dessert wine. Between
each course, a plain cracker served
as a palate cleanser.
The first tasting was a marinated
mushroom and black olive that was
paired with Lighthouse, a wine made
from Cayuga grapes grown in the
Lake Erie Appalachian region.
Course number two, Colby
cheese, was served with Silver
Lining, a wine made with locally
grown Riesling grapes and
finished dry.
Course number three, salami,
was paired with Message in a
Bottle. Similar to a merlot, this wine
is made from Carbineer grapes
imported from South America.
The fourth course, paired
deliciously with first jack cheese,
was Paper Moon’s best-selling
wine, American Harvest Blend.
Cheryl poured as she explained,
“When we first started the winery
in 2008 we had bottled everything,
but we still had several partial
a member of the board of the Ohio
Wine Producers Association, I’ve heard so
many stories about the losses the industry
has suffered. The Ohio State University
Vita Culture department is conducting
research to try to get the state to declare
an agricultural disaster. That would help
make funding available to growers so they
can begin to rebuild their vineyards. Many
will never recover.”
Jim and Karen Ruth created an
enjoyable evening for their friends and
family, and we appreciate them for inviting
Pairings to join them.
You will find Paper Moon Vineyards at
2008 State Route 60 in Vermilion, or visit the
website, papermoonvineyards.com. $ DC
barrels of wines left. My son suggested
we might just mix them together to see
what that would produce. I made them
wait till I got a notebook to mark down the
exact amounts of everything we mixed
because I had a suspicion we might
just end up with something good. I was
right!” All the guests concurred as they
enjoyed their sampling.
Finally, that shortbread cookie with
a light chocolate center was served with
something unusual and delicious. As
Sheryl poured the sampling of Honeymoon
Mead for each guest, she told them the
legend about the term. “In ancient Celtic
times the only drink was mead. When
a couple married they were to be given
enough mead to last from their wedding
night to the next moon; hence the term
‘honeymoon’.” Paper Moon’s Honeymoon
Mead is created from locally harvested
honey, fermented and then back
sweetened to perfection.
As the conversation — and the wine
— flowed, Sheryl explained the impact last
winter’s crippling temperatures has had on
the wine growers in Ohio. “Many wineries
are facing losses of one third to one half of
their vines. The northeast was hit worse
than the Lake Erie shores region, but, as
4 pairings heartofohiomagazine.com/pairings
by Siera MarthDegrees of EXCELLENCE
the program is evenly split between
traditional and nontraditional students.
It is a hybrid format program, having
online classes and in-person sessions
several times a semester. Students are
expected to complete practicums and
internships as part of their coursework.
Such experiences help ensure students
have been educated as well as trained in
the field they will be entering. Individuals
pursuing viticulture degrees can dig their
hands in the dirt right away by working
in the nearby research vineyard owned by
The Ohio State University; this research
vineyard is in North Kingsville, Ohio. Kent
State Ashtabula students have been able
to work with a small block of concord
grapes in the vineyard not currently being
used for research purposes by Ohio State.
“We cover things from winter pruning
through harvest, and from a crush all the
way through bottling.” Although there is
access to a vineyard for teaching purposes,
creating a teaching winery is still in the
works for Kent State. “We don’t have a
Galileo said, “Wine is sunshine held together by water.”While it takes both sunlight and water to
grow grapes destined to become wine,
it is under the care of steady hands
and sturdy minds that grapes find their
purpose. Such individuals find their
solitude in the madness of vines and long
rows, as well as the chemistry involved in
the fermentation process. These people
are the grape growers and wine makers.
As Ohio’s wine industry continues to
grow, it becomes more important to find
those destined for a career in viticulture
and enology. Kent State University has
created the perfect atmosphere for it all at
their Ashtabula campus.
Ohio’s only wine degree comes from a
program built for excellence in education
and technology. Its design boasts of
convenience for all students types. Hands-
on experience, networking and easily
accessible online classes are just a few of
the benefits of the program. Furthermore, it
is a member of the Viticulture and Enology
Science and Technology Alliance (VESTA),
as well as a National Science Foundation
National Center of Excellence.
The program itself is still young,
having only just begun in 2011. Still, it
has successfully attracted the attention of
around 90 students, including some Kent
State alumni. Jodi Creasap Gee, Ph.D.,
serves as head of the program, as well as the
state coordinator for VESTA. She estimates
teaching winery so we are relying on
internships and practicum experience
right now. We are trying to partner with
a few places to make sure students are
making wine before they graduate,”
Creasap said.
“We like to get them in the vineyard
and winery for as much hands-on
experience as possible,” Creasap said.
She believes it is the accessibility of the
classes and the opportunity for networking
that makes the program so approachable
to students and those looking to make a
career in the wine industry.
Core classes for the viticulture degree
include botanical viticulture, molecular
principles of grape and wine, pest
management, soil for viticulture and
regional vineyard management. Similarly,
core classes for the enology program
include wine microorganisms, winery
sanitation, winery equipment operation
and sensory evaluation.
Tonya Fields is a nontraditional student
working on her post-undergraduate
V&E Instructor Eric Cotton demonstrates lab techniques to
Jeff Cline (Alum) and JP Rousseau (current student) during the Wine
and Must Analysis class.
heartofohiomagazine.com/pairings pairings 5
degree in viticulture. After earning a
degree in teaching from Bowling Green
State University and teaching high school
English for four years, her love of being
outside lead her to seek a new path in life.
So far, that path has led her to Kent State
and to a vineyard assistant position at
Gervasi Vineyard in Canton, Ohio. “I’m not
even done with my program yet and I am
getting practical hands-on experience,”
Fields said. As a vineyard assistant, she
helps care for the vines on the five-and-
a-half acre vineyard, including pruning
beginning in March. Fields considered
adding the enology degree to her list of
accomplishments as well, but eventually
decided against it, saying, “Vineyards are
where it all begins.”
Having been involved in the Grape
and Wine Conference in Dublin, Ohio,
she had ability to network with others
involved in the industry. At the Ohio
Wine competition, she had the unique
experience to see how wines are judged.
In July, she headed to Columbus for the
Ohio Wine Festival, where she gave a
sensory evaluation presentation and
answered questions about the program
at Kent State. “I am getting all of these
opportunities because I am a student at
Kent,” Fields said.
What is Fields’ favorite class so far? The
one she took on ice wine. Ice wine is made
when the grapes harden like marbles in the
cold winter air. Because they are still frozen,
they have a different water content, which,
in turn, influences the flavor the grapes
will produce. What Fields learned was that
making ice wine is labor-intensive and
risky. Post-completion, she looks forward to
working at a vineyard as a head vineyard
manager or even in a research position at a
test vineyard. “I’m just wired for this, being
outside with the birds, bugs, and grapes. As
long as I get to spend some time with my
hands in the dirt, I will be happy.”
When Creasap graduated from college
in 2000, there were 65 to 75 wineries in
Ohio. Now she says there are upwards
of 180 to 200. There is no doubt that the
wine industry in Ohio is growing, and with
that kind of data it appears the students
pursuing an Associate of Applied Science
degree in viticulture or enology have the
right idea.
Grapes are growing, ripening and
being harvested all over Ohio to be
crushed in order to become the perfect
addition to your dinner. The next time you
open a bottle of wine, I hope you consider
the people with a passion for providing you
with that very special bottle. $
KSUA Enology Alum Nancy Evans and current student Ron Taylor prune grapevines at the KSUA
teaching vineyard at the Ashtabula Agricultural Research Station.
Warm sunshine on your face, a glass of crisp white wine in hand, relaxing with best friends and family.
Take Homethe Experience...
Ohio Wine Producers Association
800-227-6972www.OhioWines.org
Fall is the perfect time to explore the variety of the Ohio grape and
wine community. Rolling hills, fragrant ripening fruit, picturesque
vineyards, and the hustle and bustle of the Crush. Fall is the most exciting time in Ohio Wine Country.
It is the time when IT all begins. Visit a nearby winery, sip, savor, and take home a bottle of Ohio wine to
remind you of an idyllic day.
6 pairings
Rod Stober began his working
career as an assistant golf pro
at the Inverness Club in Toledo,
one of the most prestigious golf clubs in
the midwest. After four years of teaching
the game and helping to run the retail part
of the golf business out of the Inverness
pro shop, Rod decided to come home to
Richland County and help his parents run
the family business, Spring Mill Furniture
Barn on the north edge of Mansfield.
The Barn celebrated its 50th anniversary
in business last year, and while it has been
homes, it made sense that pool tables
might be an obvious and popular addition
to the Barn’s inventory.
In 2003, Rod called the Connelly
Billiards, which was then in Arizona but
has since moved their operations to Texas,
and said that he would like to carry their
products in his furniture store. They told
him that they had never sold pool tables
in a furniture store, to which businessman
Stober quickly said, “Good.” He filled out
the paperwork the company sent him and
a deal was struck. Both are pleased to
known for its traditional furnishings, about
a dozen years ago, Stober decided that it
was time to add another piece of furniture
to his inventory — pool tables.
It used to be the case that you seldom
found billiard tables or carom tables with
no pockets in personal residences. They
were mostly found in bars, private clubs or
pool halls — places most self-respecting
young men would never want their parents
know they visited. However, since family
rooms, finished basements and man
caves have become prominent in so many
for Pool Table Restoration
CuesSome
heartofohiomagazine.com/pairings pairings 7
could extract the table. Eventually, with a
little planning and some expert carpentry
work, Rod got the table out and the room
and staircase were as good or better than
they were before.
If you visit Spring Mill Furniture Barn,
you will see an impressive display of pool
and billiard tables, some new and others
in various stages of restoration. Rod
Stober isn’t interested in just any old pool
table, he looks for collectibles and those
that have good bones. When he does
complete a restoration, it’s something that
is probably of interest to buyers looking
to spend a little bit more to have a special
piece of furniture; in this case, a pool table.
Now, you may be saying to yourself,
“This is a magazine about wine, so what’s
the common thread with pool tables?”
Let me try to make the connection by
suggesting that wine and pool tables
are both usually enjoyed in a relaxing
environment, in particular when they
accompany one another in the comfortable
surroundings of one’s own home. Sipping
a good Cabernet or Pinot noir while
waiting your turn during a game of 9-ball
only enhances the enjoyment of both.
report that it has been a very successful
relationship for the past 11 years.
Carrying and selling new pool tables
was fine, but Rod had always been a
tinkerer. He soon found out from calls he
was receiving that there were a lot of tables
— stately, four legged pieces of furniture —
in dire need of some TLC. People would call
and ask Rod if he was interested in their old
table. Most were hoping to find someone
willing to get the 1500-pound monster out
of their house as much as they hoped to
make a few bucks on it.
Over the years, Rod learned a thing or
two about getting large pieces of furniture
in and out of houses through his delivery
adventures for the family business.
Disassembling a pool table in order to fit
it into a family room was not an unusual
happening. However, disassembling a
part of a home in order to get a table out
of the area in which it was located was
something else.
A few years ago, Stober received a
call from a customer who was interested
in knowing if Rod would like to buy his
table. It was going to be put in among
some auction items, and Rod said that if it
didn’t sell, he would give the owner $400
for the table. Well, he wound up owning it.
When he went to the house to pick it up,
he found that the opening at the top of the
stairway was a few inches too narrow due
to some remodeling that had been done
after the owner purchased the table.
The owner almost went into cardiac
arrest when Stober told him that he would
have to remove the staircase before he
Rod Stober
8 pairings heartofohiomagazine.com/pairings
around 1913 to the end of the depression.
Back then, Brunswick was the major
manufacturer of tables in this country.
How big was the industry? Consider this:
Brunswick built their tables in Muskegon,
Michigan in a factory that covered
1,700,000 square feet. Today, Brunswick
still sells pool tables, but they don’t build
any of them.
Rod Stober does rebuild pool tables
right here in the heart of Ohio. At Spring
Mill Furniture Barn he also has new tables
from Connelly, and he sells slot machines
as well. So, make just one visit to the Barn
and you might just be able to turn the wine
cellar/family room in your home into a
lower level casino. $ MG
do the work themselves, and from start to
finish will have spent hundreds of hours
turning a 100-year-old, worn out table
into a masterpiece.
The best pool table is nothing more
than something very pleasing to the eye
without the needed accessories, cues
and pool balls in particular. You’ll find a
wide variety of the tools of the table at the
Spring Mill Furniture Barn, too. Pool cues
can also be a bit pricey. Stober said that
not long ago, a devoted pool player from
this area sold four cues for $23,000. But,
don’t worry, we’re not talking about the
sticks you’ll want for your in-home table.
The “golden years” for pool here in
the states are generally said to be from
The price of a bottle of wine varies
from single digits to thousands, even tens
of thousands of dollars. The price of the
average new pool table found at the Barn
would begin at around $2,500 and go up
from there. Rod said that his average sale
for a completely outfitted table runs right
around $4,000.
A restored table (a collectible, if
you will) might run as high as $25,000.
In fact, one of the tables that Rod is
currently working on will probably
fall into that price range. Prospective
purchasers for such a work of art are few
and far between. I mentioned that Rod
calls himself a tinkerer, but he is much
more than that. He and his son Steven
collectibles and those that have good bones.”
“Rod Stober isn’t interested in just any old pool table, he looks for
Our vineyard is nestled in fi fty acres of wooded property
where we offer a wide selection of award-winning wines in our tasting room,
covered porch, or courtyard. Enjoy paninis, pizza, small
plates, or salads after shopping in downtown Vermilion.
2008 State Road, Vermilion440- 967-2500
PAPERMOONVINEYARDS.COM
LIVE MUSIC
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need another headache. Meier’s still
owned the winery and restaurant and
were extremely serious about wanting
to sell both. After some back-and-forth
negotiating, Kronberg owned both
businesses. As John looks back, he said
if he had known what was going to be
There are many destination points
on Lake Erie, especially in the
summer and early fall. One of
the most popular was originally called the
Catawba Island Wine Company. Today
you know it as the Mon Ami Restaurant
and Historic Winery. The building that
houses Mon Ami was built in the mid-
1800s, and during the Civil War, the stone
structure housed confederate prisoners in
the basement.
The winery was constructed around
1872 and remains one of the largest in
the Lake Erie islands area. If we fast
forward to the year 1937 we’ll find the Mon
Ami Champagne Company, founded in
Sandusky, acquiring the facility.
Mon Ami, the restaurant, was added
in 1945, and 11 years later, both restaurant
and winery were sold to Norman Mantey,
who came from a family that had been in
the winemaking business since 1880. The
next owners were Meier’s Wine Cellars,
Inc., and the present owner, John Kronberg,
acquired the facility 14 years ago. Today,
Meier’s is still in existence, and is the oldest
winery in Ohio. Mon Ami and Firelands
(which is owned by Mon Ami) are the
second and third
oldest, depending
on whom you ask.
Mr. Kronberg,
while having a food
service background,
went to college
to become an
engineer. When
he was approached
about buying the
business, he already
had several dining
properties and didn’t
MaΩic & C¬armon Lake Erie
John Kronberg
Mon Ami Owner
10 pairings heartofohiomagazine.com/pairings
bowels of the structure, which extends
nearly 40 feet down. There are rooms
used for special gatherings, and beyond
a stone wall you’ll find huge wine storage
kegs. You’ll see some of the special
equipment which was used to produce
the champagne in the post-prohibition
days. And rest assured, all the confederate
prisoners who once resided in the
basement area have been released to this
life or the next.
As you should be able to surmise,
Mon Ami is a big business. In season,
March through October, it takes 200 to 250
employees to keep the place running. In
his earlier food service experience, John
Kronberg owned and operated 12 Burger
Kings and several Little Caesar’s Pizza
stores. He told me that those businesses
almost ran themselves. Operating Mon
Ami is like running a small city... or 30
involved to get the property where he
wanted it, he probably wouldn’t have
agreed to the deal. As we all know,
hindsight is 20/20.
Despite his legitimate concerns,
Kronberg said that he could see the
enormous potential of the facility. Yes, there
were some mismanagement issues, but
Mon Ami was still showing a profit. John
Kronberg had purchased it and needed
to get to work to fix what was wrong and
improve the areas that were doing well.
Renovation began immediately on the
structure itself, including a total replacement
of the electrical system. With a building as
old as is Mon Ami, the maintenance work
never ends. Despite his initial misgivings,
the results have slowly but surely convinced
Mon Ami’s owner that he made the right
decision back in the year 2000.
There have been additions to the
facility, too. The Chalet was constructed
in 2005, as well as a gift shop, which is a
very popular visiting place. Along with
logo-imprinted clothing, there is a huge
selection of Mon Ami’s wines and other
local offerings. And you don’t want to
pass up the imported Italian wines, which
have been specially selected for Mon Ami.
How busy is the wine shop? Well, in a
good week in the summer, they’ll sell some
10,000 bottles of wine.
One of Mon Ami’s marketing slogans
says, “We sell magic and charm.” I
asked the owner to tell me what that
means. John had a quick reply: “We
make memories with, among other
things, weddings. Our brides and grooms
keep coming back to celebrate their
anniversaries and to see how Mon Ami
has changed.” Since it is located in a
popular tourist destination, 80% to 90%
of Mon Ami’s guests come from outside
the general Lake Erie area. Occasionally
you’ll spot a celebrity in the Chalet or other
dining areas. One such sighting was Brian
Wilson of The Beach Boys, who spent an
evening at Mon Ami not too long ago.
There are multiple areas for dining,
drinking and entertainment at Mon Ami.
One of the most popular gathering spots
is their 60-seat, piano-shaped bar which
is flanked by indoor and outdoor seating.
There is a stage from which a wide array
of talent performs throughout Mon Ami’s
high season.
I mentioned earlier that Mon Ami
is much more than just a building with
several restaurants and a gift shop. One
of the most interesting parts of my visit to
the facility was a tour of what lies in the
Left to Right:The beautiful dining room at Mon Ami, a charming reception to take place beneath the winery, and the stone exterior of the gift shop
heartofohiomagazine.com/pairings pairings 11
Burger Kings. You’re dealing with the
multiple personalities of the workforce,
all with different skill levels. While he
has a capable staff, Kronberg likes to stay
on top of things. Given that he lives in
Fort Myers, Florida and commutes to his
Lake Erie-based business from Thursday
through Sunday, that’s a big challenge.
The owner tries to be there for every
Sunday brunch, a Mon Ami specialty at
which they usually serve between 1000
and 1200 meals. It must be delicious,
because people will literally drive a
couple hours to pay $35 for this brunch
to remember. John said that he wouldn’t
have the patience to wait that long, but
he’s very pleased that others do.
Mon Ami does not have lodging of
its own, but there are plenty of hotel and
motel rooms within minutes of this iconic
landmark. Remember, it’s more than a
restaurant. It’s a place where you can shop
for yourself in a wine and gift emporium
like few others in the area. It’s also the
place for a wine tasting experience as you
sample the Mon Ami labels, which include
Firelands, Lonz and others.
If you’re reading this in Ohio, say from
Columbus north, you’re just a “one tank trip”
(as the late Neil Zurcher used to call those
short journeys to places of interest) from
experiencing the joys of Mon Ami. If you
need more information before committing to
the drive, go to www.monamiwinery.com.
Then get to Port Clinton for the magic and
the charm.. $ MG
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the first ‘fire proof’ building in Mansfield.
Today it would only be considered fire
retardant, but it’s an amazing structure.”
To gain access for equipment and
supplies, it was necessary to dig down
about five feet to expose an area outside
the basement wall. “We had to hire a
special company to come in and cut the
opening for a door into this basement wall.
It was so thick and difficult not just any
construction company could do the job,”
Duncan said.
The Phoenix Brewing Company
occupies the former Charles Schroer and
Sons Mortuary. In 1857, Mansfielder
Charles Schroer owned a furniture and
casket-making business; the mortuary
was built in 1914. Bodies were taken
to the high-ceilinged basement for
preparation, and then raised to the first
Sometimes sitting down over a
beer with someone can settle a
disagreement, help find solutions to
nagging problems, or flesh out an idea. This
story is about how the latter came to fruition
while enjoying a cold one with friends.
Duncan Macfarlane, Steve Zigmund
and Josh Beard have raised more than a
few glasses together over the years. As
their love of craft beers grew, they began
to talk about the idea of making their own.
“It started out as a joke at first,
something we talked about for years.
Then we saw the pricing for licensing
come down. A couple of us took some
classes in starting a small business, and
my background in biology and chemistry
and fifteen years of home brewing made
me the perfect candidate for brewmaster.
Things started falling into place, but we
weren’t sure about the whole thing till we
found this building. I think this was only
the third place we looked at, but we knew
it was perfect for us,” Duncan said.
Steve Zigmund remembered walking
into the basement, “The ceilings are very
high, something unusual in a building
of this age. That was necessary to
accommodate the five-barrel brewing
system. All the walls are a foot thick; the
building is a hundred years old and it was
TRADITION ON TAP
Photo by Devin Hull
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seasonal beers and guest beers from other
Ohio crafters on tap.
From the day they walked into the
abandoned mortuary in December of
2012 until they opened their doors for
the first time in the first week of April
2014, the work never stopped. Not
just the hard work necessary for the
physical transformation of the building,
but navigating the licensing process.
“The paperwork was unbelievable as
we prepared for the state’s hands-on
inspection as well as the federal virtual
inspection. We got our license for
fermenting malt beverages in plenty of
time. Our second license that allows us to
sell beer and wine came three hours before
our grand opening,” Duncan said.
The new Phoenix Brewing Company
patio links to the brickyard, making it
easy to walk to and from other nearby
establishments. This close proximity to
other businesses made the building even
more attractive to the partners.
“We thought a brewery would be a
great addition to all those different type
places,” Zigmund said. “The downtown
area is a really neat place in Mansfield and
it’s up-and-coming. We think our business
is going to help that grow even more.”
The Phoenix Brewing Company is
resurrecting tradition one batch at a time
at 131 North Main Street in Mansfield,
Ohio, and they’re open Thursday, Friday
and Saturday nights. Visit them on
Facebook. $ DC
floor in the casket lift. The lift shaft now
accommodates plumbing and duct work
necessary for operations; wood salvaged
from the casket lift itself has been
fashioned into casket-shaped wooden
holders used as beer samplers.
The naming has been challenging,
but every beer produced at Phoenix gives
a nod to the building’s origins. John
Doe Wheat is a light beer named for
the occasional unidentified client at the
mortuary. Ferryman Oatmeal Milk Stout
refers to the ferryman who takes the
dead to the other world; 5 Guinea Extra
Special Bitter nods to the price paid to the
ferryman for the trip. Redemption India
Pale Ale, Danger City Brown Ale (a shout
out to our city’s past), and Pale Ale 419
(a reference to a dead body in our police
scanner code), round out the offerings.
You can also expect to find additional
Interior photos by Michelle Fredmonsky-Harvey
14 pairings heartofohiomagazine.com/pairings
Q: I understand you headed up Ohio State’s Creative Activities
wine program for nearly 30 years. What was or is it?
A: This was a life and leisure program offered by Ohio State. At
the time, I was guest lecturing for Dr. David Crean’s Horticulture 170
class called “Wine and Western Culture”. He was asked to begin
their classes, but he asked if I would do it. With Dr. Peter Machamer
we began a two-class program that initially had an attendance
of 25 students per class. After a year, Dr. Machamer accepted a
job at Pitt, so I carried on as I was learning. The class prep I did
helped me qualify for the National Society of Wine Educators. The
university allowed me to expand the thing to three separate classes
that ran for eight weeks each. In truth, I loved it, because it made
me learn more so I could better teach. The program was so well
known that we could get guest winery owners, winemakers and
wine personalities to come to speak to students. Next, I pursued an
MFA in Creative Writing at Ohio State. My prof suggested I write
a wine book for the class after a few quarters. I did, and that book,
Basically Wine, is what we used for my beginning classes in the
program. I have no idea how I had the energy for doing what I did.
At the time I was operating a group of wine shops, and today I still
have our flagship store. It was a grand time.
Q: Is older always better when it comes to wine? I’m talking
about the product being consumed, not the consumer.
A: Truth be known, the majority of wines should be consumed
within three years. But, for those wines with staying power, the
road to greatness is all about time. The ability to age a long while
commands top dollar upon release of the wine. So, older wines
are not always better, but a wine that can get older and improve is
always more expensive.
Q: I read that wine consumption in the U.S. now rivals that of
France. As someone who has always enjoyed and studied wine
does this surprise you?
A: Although we consume a quarter of what the French do
per person, the U.S. is the largest consumer as a country because
there are more of us. Western Europe’s wine consumption is on
the decline per capita, and the Far East consumption rate is rising
quickly. The U.S. has been on a wine explosion for the last thirty
years, but now we are in a craft beer and hard liquor explosion. It
all will be in flux, but this liquor/specialty beer/energy drink thing is
now at play in Europe, and I bet China is next.
For Roger Gentile, wine has been a lifetime passion. His
parents, Eleanor and Ralph, opened The Wine Sellers, a
retail wine store in Columbus, in 1954. Working there
from day one, he eventually joined the family business.
Roger didn’t just want to sell wine, he wanted to share
his passion for wine with those who visited the family
business. For that matter, those who had never been to The
Wine Sellers were even better receptors for Roger’s wealth of
knowledge of the grape.
His personal accomplishments as an educational advocate
for the wine industry are impressive. He has taught wine
classes to over 40,000 students, written two books on wine and
won a TV Emmy for work he did several years back on P.M.
Magazine. In 2007, Roger became the second American ever
to receive the John Daniels Award for wine education.
I recently took a drive down I-71 to Roger’s wine store
in Ohio’s capital city to ask him some questions about wine
tastings, wine snobs and more:
Gen
tile
on
You
r W
ine
“There cannot be good living where there is not good drinking.”
“There cannot be good
Photo courtesy of Samantha K. Images
heartofohiomagazine.com/pairings pairings 15
Q: For those who might be creating
their own wine cellar, what are the must
have types and labels the beginner should
consider?
A: My standard beginning cellar is
60% white and 40% red, with a mix from
California, Italy, Spain, France and Ohio.
Each year, reduce the whites by 5% and
increase the reds by 5%. After three
years, ask yourself which you are enjoying
more and what you’d like more of. This
is foolproof, economical and easy to do. If
you drink six bottles a month, buy twelve
a month. After three years, you will have a
225-bottle wine cellar.
Q: Finally, how can I spot a ‘wine
snob’ in a wine bar, and what can I do to
impress him/her?
A: I cannot say how to impress a
wine snob, but it rankles me when I hear
someone in a restaurant talk about a wine
that is one of those high-priced common
wines found on so many wine lists. This
is one of the problems with image and
price; they are not necessarily in sync. I
am not going to be critical of any one label,
but there are a great many wineries in
California that make great wine, and they
make industrial wine. Too often, the latter
are what restaurants carry, and it is wines
such as these that someone expounds
upon that tells me they are speaking more
with ego than sense.
To learn more about Roger Gentile, go to
www.gentiles.com and be sure to read his
Wine Blog. Roger’s outlook on life can be
summed up in a statement from Benjamin
Franklin on the home page. It says:
“There cannot be good living where
there is not good drinking.” $ MG
Q: My impression is that Americans
consider wine something to enjoy on
special occasions, but in Europe wine is a
staple of meal time. Is that true?
A: I think you’re correct for most
people. I think not a day passes without
someone who comes into the store, points
out an expensive bottle of wine and says,
“we had that at a restaurant for a (fill in
the blank) celebration and it made the
event.” As well, they mention they paid
$50 for it, and then ask for a nice $10 wine
for tonight. Yes, having wine when out
justifies the higher prices a restaurant
charges. Special times require special
things, and wine is seen by most as a great
addition to any celebration. Just ask the
champagne makers of France.
Q: What qualities should a novice look
for if he or she wants to truly enjoy a wine
tasting event?
A: There are three things that tell
one if a wine is “special”. The depth of
the aroma, the abundance of the flavors
it presents, and the length of time the
wine’s flavor and feel stays pleasantly in
the mouth after it is swallowed. To be
sure, some may like a fruity wine or a
dry wine; others may avoid highly tannic
wines, while some look for them. But it
all comes down to how does it smell, i.e.,
what is going on here, how fragrant, is it
pleasant? Then, what do I taste? Is this
flowers, earth, red fruit, blue fruit, cassis,
berry, and on and on. Like checkers or
chess, the more you do it, the better you’ll
become at it. The aftertastes tell so much
about the wine and its saturation, the body
and acids, and the potential for a wine to
age. I say to my students that a novice
wine drinker can better gauge a wine’s
quality because there are no preconceived
notions. But learning why a wine is
impressive really separates the serious
wine student from the occasional drinker. I
love both of them.
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16 pairings heartofohiomagazine.com/pairings
Perhaps your fear is based upon a lack
of knowledge about wine. Here are some
soothing (and fun) facts that might ease
your distress:
• One vine annually produces
between four and six bottles of wine.
• It takes about 2.8 pounds of
grapes for each bottle of wine.
• 2,000 pounds (one ton) of
grapes will produce about 720
bottles of wine.
• One barrel of wine is equal to 20
cases, and that is 1,200 glasses of
pure enjoyment!
When it comes to wine, there is
nothing to fear but fear itself… enjoy! $
Oenophobia is the fear of wine.
It’s a real disorder that encompasses
the fear of wine, spilled wine, even
wine bottles. Although it may not heal
a genuine disorder, a little knowledge
can be a good thing; read on for some
soothing facts:
If you dread ruining a good table
cloth with a red wine spill, there’s help
to be had. There are many commercial
wine stain removers on the market;
pick one up and keep it on hand for the
inevitable accident. If being prepared
isn’t something that appeals to you, I
suggest immediately removing the cloth
(or clothing) before the stain sets into the
fabric, then pour boiling water through
the stain. If it’s a carpet stain, you can
try mixing dishwashing detergent into
hot water, thoroughly blot first, and then
apply the paste. A baking soda paste is
also an option.
Almost all wine grape juice is clear.
Red wines are colored by their skins,
which are included when the red wine is
fermented. White wines are fermented
only from juice and that accounts for their
lighter color.
Wine SpeakBrush up on you wine vocabulary with this glossary of wine-related terms.
The best or nothing.
for life
Now it gets interesting.
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