We start the journey by looking at the Vogue Archive. This documents thousands of Vogue images, from late 1800’s. I began by typing in garments in to the search bar; this gave me a huge time scale to choose from. I narrowed down the time scale to 1940’s to 1970’s as I found these eras the most interesting.

I ended choosing images from the 1960’s. I chose these because the silhouettes are appealing to me, they are wearable and in fashion today. I liked the boxy jackets and short A-line skirts. Modernism and minimalism can be seen within the garments’ shapes. This is balanced with feminine characters, bold prints and worldly influences. If I were to recycle an era’s fashion, it would be 60’s.

These are my favourite images from my research; the models are wearing classic 60’s jackets, featuring straight lines and a bold central button stand. Typical round necklines move the shapes to the upper body, giving women a confident look. I especially like the Indian influences that appeared. This trend was mainly followed in London and America.

What’s the difference between recycling and up cycling?

Recycling is a process to change waste materials into new materials; it gives the material a purpose again. If we recycle, it saves us from having to make materials from new, which often involves using harmful processes and a result in it being sent to landfill. By recycling we help reducing unnecessary waste.

Up cycling also gives old waste, a new purpose. The difference is, it creates a product of a higher quality or value of the original.

http://ecowatch.com/2014/04/07/22-facts-plastic-pollution-10-things-can-do-about-it/

https://www.pinterest.com/pin/98727416804002373/

Where will I get inspiration?

I wanted a theme or a message to work from, so I used Pinterest for a source of inspiration. I started a board called “recycling & up-cycling”, of which you can see, on-line by scanning the bar code.

During my research on Pinterest I came across projects involving things found on the beach. I found this idea very interesting.I would like to use this beach theme in my project. I can use objects, I find on the beach as embellishments, also I can create beach inspired shapes (from shells, seaweed etc.) in my garments. This led to me creating a “beach project” board. (See this via scanning the barcode)

re & up cycling

beach proj

How can we dye fabrics using natural processes?

If not done properly, dyeing fabrics in industry can cause harm to the environment. Dyes are sometimes disposed of illegally; this only happens in poorer countries in unregulated parts of the industry, especially in India, which is one of the largest textile producers in the world.

http://nwfabricshow.com/what-makes-a-company-sustainable/#.VIy7c1oolUQ

So how can we dye in a sustainable way, without causing harm to the environment?

Vegetable dyeing

We can dye fabrics using the pigments that occur in vegetables, fruits and spices. The process is simple and causes next-to no harm to the environment. This process involves: mashing/ liquefying the fruit or veg, boiling it in a vinegar and salt solution and draining away excess to only leave the new ‘dye’. Add the fabric to the dye (cotton, muslin or wool work best), remove the fabric and wash; the salt should act as a fixative.

The best results usually come from: turmeric, berries, beetroot, coffee and saffron. There are of course many other fruit, vegetables and spices that can be used.

http://www.craftsy.com/blog/2013/07/natural-fabric-dyes/

http://oko-organic-clothing.blogspot.co.uk/2008/09/nature-diy-part-1-poke-berry-paint-and.html

http://www.scoutiegirl.com/acute-how-to-all-natural-fabric-dyes/

Rust Dyeing

This is when the chemical reaction of rust transfers its’ colour pigments to fabric. Basically, the fabric is soaked in vinegar (again best results come from cotton and other natural fibre fabrics), and then a metal object is placed on top of, or underneath your piece of fabric. The vinegar will encourage the rust to transfer to the fabric, creating interesting shapes and shades of orange and brown. The pattern and intensity of colour will depend on how the solution is used, the metal object, the fabric and method used.

http://artcraftdesignreferencesite.blogspot.co.uk/2013/03/rust-dyeing-fabric.html

Designer research

This is Central Saint Martins’ graduate, Helen Lawrence’s A/W 12 collection. She has used recycled felt and plastic, which she has cut and fused together, when you look closer the black zigzags are actually made from black plastic glue, giving the collection a ‘hand drawn’ arty effect. I really liked the simple concept of this collection. I would also like to convey a subject simply and effectively when I design my collection, and make my garments.

http://www.fashionising.com/runway/b--helen-lawrence-aw-12-20184.html

These collections feature in A/W 2012’S Central Saint Martins’ graduate show. The first images are from Luke Brooks, although the materials are not totally recycled, I like how he shows how recycled materials can be used in an ‘arty’ sense.

Malene List Thomsen up-cycles un-used and discarded rubber rings and plastic security tags from the manufacturing industry. This was my favourite collection from this show. I like how she uses and embraces the shape of the objects and how the garment is constructed around them. I could use my found objects as embellishments and also use them to shape my garments.

http://1granary.wordpress.com/2012/02/19/central-saint-martins-aw-2012-ma-show/

Luke Brooks

Malene List Thomsen

Mia Nisbet

http://www.africafashionguide.com/2012/08/mia-nisbet-brings-upcycled-fashion-to-a-catwalk-in-spitalsfield-london/

Mia Nesbit up-cycles fabrics and creates garments/collections that are inspired by the way Malawian citizens mix the imported clothes with their traditional dress and printed textiles. Unwanted, left over, western imports, no one buys goes into her collections; this saves it from going to landfill. I really like the idea of using recycled fabric that will otherwise go to landfill. I will do this in my collection.

http://www.africafashionguide.com/2012/08/mia-nisbet-brings-upcycled-fashion-to-a-catwalk-in-spitalsfield-london/

Good One

Goodone is a small company in London who create high-end, fashion-forward collections, reinventing the potential of what up-cycled garments can be.By using 100% reclaimed materials as much as thy possibly can, in every part of the design process from designing and making to packaging.“We create desirable, assertive and feminine pieces that work day to evening. We aim not to stand apart from the mainstream fashion industry, but rather to achieve positive change from within.”I especially likes the up cycled old jumpers, made into coats and the waterproof jackets made out of old tents.

http://www.goodone.co.uk

Moe Nagata

I discovered Moe Nagata after I had collected my crab claws, I didn’t realise that they had been used within accessories and fashion before. He creates pieces of stunning statement jewellery from crab claws and shells, which are coated in enamel paints and linked onto chains and jewellery rope.

“Traditional tribes hunted animals for food then used every last piece of the animal to make products. This project aims to explore the use of

natural materials discarded from the food industry, including fish bones, fish skins, fish shells and crustaceans, to create contemporary wearable

objects.”

I loved how he makes use of the natural beauty creatures have. I love the idea of painting my claws. This could enhance them beautifully.

moe-nagata.com

Vivienne Westwood

http://fashion.telegraph.co.uk/article/TMG10586947/Vivienne-Westwoods-Ethical-Africa-bags-launch-at-Asos.html

http://www.ecouterre.com/category/designers/vivienne-westwood/

https://iammicrominimod.wordpress.com/2011/05/19/

”If people like my clothes, it’s good if they don’t buy things for six months, then they’ll be able to afford them,”

“The first thing I’ve been doing is promoting the idea of ‘do it yourself’. Make your own T-shirt by putting a picture in a plastic sleeve and pinning it on. Whatever!”

Beach Combing

I have decided to definitely base my collection on the beach. I went to Eyemouth beach and did some ‘beach combing’. I also took pictures on the beach for shape inspiration; I can use these shapes in my garments. I will also be looking for a colour pallet to work from.These are the pictures I took and objects I found…

The items I collected and will use were:

Eroded limpet shells- I could use these as embellishments, the holes in them could make it easy for me to sew these on to garments.Sea glass- these are bits of smashed glass that has been eroded by the sea and can be used as embellishments.Crab back and claws- these will have to be washed thoroughly in bleach over a few weeks. Can be used as a statement jewellery piece or feature on garment.Fishermen’s net and rope- can be used within a garment

From these photos I have also created my colour pallet, it will consist of: black, white, blue, green, orange and yellow. The yellow comes from fishermen’s traditional yellow oilskins. Oilskin proved too hard to find so I could use yellow PVC to represent this.

How have other designers used a beach or sea theme in their work?

This is from Christopher Kane’s A/W 11 collection. I love how he has made these unusual and strange materials, wearable. I have to remember that if I use unusual objects, this has to stay wearable and for a high-end market.

The other designer’s collections I have looked at are from Versace, Chanel and Alexander McQueen. I especially liked the simple applique details from Versace and how properties of the fabric have been used to create the shapes. I like how Christopher Kane has created ‘wave’ effects with gathers and wavy layered chiffon.

http://styleesascloset.blogspot.co.uk/2011/07/hot-buy-christopher-kane-liquid-filled.html

http://swishsuits.com/womens-aquatic-fashion-most-iconic-moments/

http://myhellobella.blogspot.co.uk/2012/02/

mermaid-trend-for-nyfw-2012.html

http://s-amuse.com/tag/waves/

My fabrics

Usually, I would buy my fabrics after designing but for this project, I wanted my fabrics at an early stage. This is because recycled/reclaimed fabrics are harder to find.Shiny fabrics will take inspiration from the glistening sea. I also wanted a fabric representing rust. To find these, I ventured on-line. Here I could find lots of different websites selling old fabric stock, re-claimed fabric and end of line/roll fabric. I found a website called “off-set warehouse”, this sold meters of re-claimed and end of line fabrics that were otherwise being sent to landfill.I came across re-claimed upholstery fabric where I found a few meters of bronze cotton backed satin. This was a great find as I could up-cycle this and makes a garment. The second fabric I bought was from a local fabric shop. This was fabric that was left over on the end of a roll, so I got it at a discounted rate.

http://www.abakhan.co.uk/fabric/dressmaking/satin/satin-backed-dupion-black-112cm.html

http://ukfabricsonline.com/gold-cotton-backed-furnishing-satin

Creating shapes from the beach

I will be incorporating my beach finds into my garment, also shapes within my garment will be inspired by the beach and by my Vogue Archive 60’s research. I can use:Scalloped shapes and twisted lines from shellsVoluptuous textures and wavy lines from the seaChoppy lines and fringes from seaweedSplatters of colour from the lichen on the rocksStrong sculptured 3d effects and architectural-like lines from crab shells.

http://nocamels.com/2012/04/cleantech-co-produces-low-cost-electricity-from-waves/

https://croftgarden.wordpress.com/tag/laminaria-hyperborea/

http://highlanderimages.blogspot.co.uk/2011_06_01_archive.html

https://www.flickr.com/photos/14508691@N08/3171414414/

http://www.bbc.co.uk/blogs/legacy/natureuk/2010/08/friday-flickr-favourites-natio.shtml

The line up

So from all of this research, I went on to developing designs. Here is my final lineup after narrowing these down and choosing my outfits to make my six outfits.

These were all inspired by; shapes from my 60’s vogue archive research and beach influences such as- shape, embellishment and colour. I had my reclaimed and end of roll fabric and beach objects and I was ready to start making. Making my Final Outfit

Making the Jacket

The main features of my jacket were, the colour (rust) the shape of the scalloped panels (shells) and the classic, boxy 60’s shape to it.

Basically, the jacket was shortened, the waist was taken in and scalloped panels were made. These would fit into smaller half-circle shapes on the jacket itself. The idea was that the panels would ease in like a sleeve would to an armhole. This would create a 3D effect.This technique was tested whilst toiling, of course using a similarly stiff fabric. It was a success. Panels at the side were made slightly bigger so the scalloped shapes would stay consistent all around the jacket.I lined this in a way a normal jacket would be lined. Making the dress

My initial ideas were to flat pattern cut the skirt and drape the top. I successful made the skirt with ease; the waist length was extended so I could add pleats when fitting to the waistband. I wanted to drape the top, because then it would seem as if the crab claws were picking up a draped piece of fabric. I tried the draping technique twice but failed, the shape I created would not stay and decided to try flat pattern cutting instead.This was a success. The darts (from the block) were moved into gathers/large pleats and this was a success when made.

The dress had a complete facing, waistband and invisible zip.

When finishing my shell jacket, i encountered a major problem. This was

when my scallped edge facing was sewn to my scalloped edged outer shell. The fabric did match upbut didnt lie flat, whatever I did. i was very

dissapointed with this but everything else for this jacket was ok.

I like my dress the best. It features a sparkly set of crab claws that are positioned to look like they are holding up the top bit of the dress. The net was initially added to layers of stretch fabric, i had to use fabric glue to do this as it was too hard to hand sew in to place or use the sewing machine. Its glued in to a sandwich of fabric then added to the lining layer of the dress.

References

Vogue Archive

Vreeland, Diana. (1968). weatherbee coats. Available: http://ezproxy1.hw.ac.uk:2415/vogue/docview/897858165/27283C4E8B704DFEPQ/17?accountid=16064. Last accessed 14/12.14.

Vreeland, Diana. (1963). Fashion: The hat to change your mind about hats. Available: http://ezproxy1.hw.ac.uk:2415/docview/904290574/2B937CBFD76F45B7PQ/16?accountid=16064. Last accessed 14/12.14.

recycing and upcycling

lynn Hasselberger. (2014). 22 Facts About Plastic Pollution (And 10 Things We Can Do About It). Available: http://ecowatch.com/2014/04/07/22-facts-plastic-pollution-10-things-can-do-about-it/. Last accessed 14/12/14.

lynn Hasselberger. (2014). Cut Vinyl Clocks. Available: https://www.pinterest.com/pin/98727416804002373/. Last accessed 14/12/14.

Pinterest

https://www.pinterest.com/vickybarron92/recycling-up-cycling/

https://www.pinterest.com/vickybarron92/beach-project/

Veg/Rust Dyeing

Katrina Gad. (2014). Textile Industry Impact on Waste-water, Are We Doing Enough?. Available: http://nwfabricshow.com/what-makes-a-company-sustainable/#.VI6CEloolUR. Last accessed 14/12/14.

Angella Mitchell. (2013). Dyeing Fabric Natures Way. Available: http://www.craftsy.com/blog/2013/07/natural-fabric-dyes/. Last accessed 14/12/14.

Designer Research

Miss voodoo. (2008). Nature DIY Part 1. Available: http://oko-organic-clothing.blogspot.co.uk/2008/09/nature-diy-part-1-poke-berry-paint-and.html. Last accessed 14/12/14.

Esme. (2013). Rust Dyeing Fabric. Available: http://artcraftdesignreferencesite.blogspot.co.uk/2013/03/rust-dyeing-fabric.html. Last accessed 14/12/14.

imaxtree. (2012). helen lawrence. Available: http://www.fashionising.com/runway/b--helen-lawrence-aw-12-20184.html. Last accessed 14/12/14.

Greg French. (2012). central saint martins 2012 ma show. Available: http://1granary.wordpress.com/2012/02/19/central-saint-martins-aw-2012-ma-show/. Last accessed 14/12/14.

jaquelene shaw. (2010). africa fashion guide. Available: http://www.africafashionguide.com/2012/08/mia-nisbet-brings-upcycled-fashion-to-a-catwalk-in-spitalsfield-london/. Last accessed 14/12/14.

Olivia Bergin. (2008). Vivienne Westwood bags. Available: http://fashion.telegraph.co.uk/article/TMG10586947/Vivienne-Westwoods-Ethical-Africa-bags-launch-at-Asos.html. Last accessed 14/12/14.

Eco Couture. (2007). ecocouture. Available: http://www.ecouterre.com/category/designers/vivienne-westwood/. Last accessed 14/12/14.

victoria Berg. (2010). Womens aquatic fashion. Available: http://swishsuits.com/womens-aquatic-fashion-most-iconic-moments/. Last accessed 14/12/14.

Sam use. (2010). Waves. Available: http://s-amuse.com/tag/waves/. Last accessed 14/12/14.

christeine Johnson. (2010). croft garden. Available: https://croftgarden.wordpress.com/tag/laminaria-hyperborea/. Last accessed 14/12/14.