1
U(D54G1D)y+"!#!@!$!= Pierre Cardin, the visionary de- signer who clothed the elite but also transformed the business of fashion, reaching the masses by affixing his name to an outpouring of merchandise ranging from off- the-rack apparel to bath towels, died on Tuesday in Neuilly-sur- Seine, just outside Paris. He was 98. His death, at the American Hos- pital there, was confirmed by the French Academy of Fine Arts. No cause was given. “Fashion is not enough,” Mr. Cardin once told Eugenia Shep- pard, the American newspaper columnist and fashion critic. “I don’t want to be just a designer.” He was never just that. He dressed the famous — artists, po- litical luminaries, tastemakers and members of the haute bour- geoisie — but he was also a licens- ing pioneer, a merchant to the gen- eral public with his name on a cor- nucopia of products, none too ex- alted or too humble to escape his avid eye. There were bubble dresses and aviator jumpsuits, fragrances and automobiles, ashtrays and even pickle jars. Planting his flag on the Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré in Paris, he proceeded to turn the country’s fashion establishment on its head, reproducing fashions for mass, ready-to-wear con- sumption and dealing a blow to the elitism that had governed the Parisian couture. In a career of more than three- quarters of a century, Mr. Cardin remained a futurist. “He had this Futuristic Designer for the Famous, and a Merchant to the Masses By RUTH LA FERLA PIERRE CARDIN, 1922-2020 Pierre Cardin, in 1979, had a global empire. “I was born an artiste, but I am a businessman,” he said. KEYSTONE, VIA GETTY IMAGES Continued on Page A18 WASHINGTON — President- elect Joseph R. Biden Jr. on Tues- day criticized the speed of vaccine distribution under the Trump ad- ministration and promised to step up the pace when he takes office, while delivering a sober warning about the toll of the coronavirus pandemic. Mr. Biden offered a bleak as- sessment of the months ahead, saying they would be “a very tough period for our nation,” and he exhorted Americans to make the sacrifices necessary to over- come the devastation of the virus. “It’s going to take all the grit and determination we have as Americans to get it done,” he said. He warned that if the current pace of administering vaccines under President Trump contin- ued, “it’s going to take years, not months,” to vaccinate the nation. And he said he had directed his team to prepare a more ag- gressive effort once he takes office in three weeks, pledging “to move heaven and earth to get us going in the right direction.” “This is going to be the greatest operational challenge we’ve ever faced as a nation,” Mr. Biden said Biden Rebukes Trump on Pace Of Inoculation By THOMAS KAPLAN and REBECCA ROBBINS Continued on Page A16 A Black New Jersey man is suing the authorities after being falsely accused of crimes and spending 10 days in jail because of a flawed match. PAGE B1 BUSINESS B1-6 A Facial Recognition Failure In the grip of the pandemic, the city had huge increases in homicides and shoot- ings while some other types of crime plummeted. PAGE A13 NATIONAL A12-17 A Violent Year in New York Our critics look back at 26 restaurants that ceased operations during 2020. Above, delicacies at Mission Chinese Food in Manhattan. PAGE D5 FOOD D1-12 The Kitchen Is Closed Being Black kept K. C. Jones from being fully appreciated as an N.B.A. coach, Harvey Araton writes. PAGE B7 SPORTSWEDNESDAY B7-10 Two Titles and Little Credit Mexico’s brutal traffickers were knocked sideways by the pandemic. But then they got creative. PAGE A9 INTERNATIONAL A9-11 How Drug Cartels Adapted Online classes can be especially chal- lenging for the 142,000 children in New York City who are learning English as a new language. PAGE A12 The Loss of a Language Deep in the recent relief measure is long-sought national regulation of horse racing, Joe Drape writes. PAGE B8 Heeding Call for Racing Reform Jeff Koons has entered the classroom at 65, signing on as a MasterClass instruc- tor. An art critic tuned in to glean some of the master’s magic. PAGE C1 ARTS C1-6 The Artist as Teacher WASHINGTON Senator Mitch McConnell blocked an at- tempt by Democrats on Tuesday to hold an immediate vote on in- creasing stimulus checks to $2,000 from $600, leaving the fate of the measure unclear as Presi- dent Trump continued to demand the larger payouts and more Re- publicans publicly endorsed the idea. Instead, Mr. McConnell, Repub- lican of Kentucky and the majority leader, provided vague assur- ances that the Senate would “be- gin the process” of discussing $2,000 checks and two other is- sues that Mr. Trump has de- manded lawmakers address: election security and removing le- gal protections for social media platforms. Mr. McConnell would not say whether he planned separate votes on the three issues or if he would bring them for a vote on the Senate floor at all. But in a sign of how he might approach them, the majority leader introduced new legislation on Tuesday afternoon combining the $2,000 checks, election security and social media provisions into one bill, which would most likely doom the effort. The sudden talk of election se- curity complicates matters, given that Mr. Trump continues to claim, without evidence, that voter fraud cost him re-election. Democrats would undoubtedly resist any- thing that could be seen as trying to undermine the outcome of the election. Mr. McConnell, who has pri- vately urged his conference mem- bers not to object to the election results when Congress meets on Jan. 6 to ratify them, portrayed the president’s request as “explor- ing further ways to protect the sanctity of American ballots.” The bill that Mr. McConnell is putting together would create a biparti- san commission to study election practices that “strengthened” and that “undermined the integrity of the election,” like the use of mail- in ballots and vote-by-mail pro- cedures, which Mr. Trump has baselessly complained encour- aged voter fraud. Mr. McConnell’s move came as he faced growing pressure from Republicans to increase stimulus payments to struggling Ameri- cans. SENATE’S LEADER OBSTRUCTS A VOTE ON $2,000 CHECKS G.O.P. PRESSURE BUILDS Fate of Proposal Remains Unclear as McConnell Offers Own Bill By CATIE EDMONDSON Senator Mitch McConnell, the majority leader, on Tuesday. Republicans who oppose $2,000 checks risk President Trump’s fury. AL DRAGO FOR THE NEW YORK TIMES Continued on Page A7 THE VARIANT Colorado confirmed a case of the virus mutation that has alarmed Britain. PAGE A7 Hospitals all over China have al- most everything necessary for a mass vaccination drive: Millions of doses. Refrigerators to store them. Health care workers trained to administer them. Everything, that is, except proof that any of their vaccines work. Unlike their Western competi- tors, the Chinese companies have not disclosed data from late-stage clinical trials that would show whether their vaccines are effec- tive, and regulators in China have not officially approved them. That has not deterred local gov- ernments across the country, which have begun an ambitious vaccination campaign. The goal is to inoculate 50 million people — roughly the population of Co- lombia — by the middle of Febru- ary, before the Lunar New Year holiday, when hundreds of mil- lions are expected to travel. China, where the virus first emerged a year ago, is going to great — and scientifically unor- thodox — lengths to prevent a re- surgence of the outbreak. While Beijing has not officially an- nounced the vaccine target, the government has signaled the roll- out will be managed in much the same way as the outbreak, through a top-down approach that can mobilize thousands of work- ers to produce, ship and adminis- ter the shots. Local officials were told that the drive was a “political mission.” The campaign will focus on what China calls “key priority groups,” including doctors, hotel employees, border inspection per- Chinese Goal: Quick Vaccine For 50 Million Questions of Safety in a ‘Political Mission’ By SUI-LEE WEE Continued on Page A8 The routine things in Chris Long’s life used to include biking 30 miles three times a week and taking courses toward a Ph.D. in eight-week sessions. But since getting sick with the coronavirus in March, Mr. Long, 54, has fallen into a distressing new cycle — one that so far has landed him in the hospital seven times. Periodically since his initial five-day hospitalization, his lungs begin filling again; he starts coughing uncontrollably and runs a low fever. Roughly 18 days later, he spews up greenish-yellow flu- id, signaling yet another bout of pneumonia. Soon, his oxygen levels drop and his heart rate accelerates to compensate, sending him to a hos- pital near his home in Clarkston, Mich., for several days, some- times in intensive care. “This will never go away,” he said, describing his worst fear. “This will be my going-forward for the foreseeable future.” Nearly a year into the pan- demic, it’s clear that recovering from Covid-19’s initial onslaught can be an arduous, uneven jour- ney. Now, studies reveal that a sig- nificant subset of patients are hav- ing to return to hospitals, some- times repeatedly, with complica- tions triggered by the disease or by the body’s efforts to defeat the virus. Even as vaccines give hope for stopping the spread of the virus, the surge of new cases portends repeated hospitalizations for more patients, taxing medical re- sources and turning some peo- ple’s path to recovery into a Sisy- phean odyssey that upends their lives. In the Hospital for Covid, for the Seventh Time By PAM BELLUCK Fighting to Recover and Fearing ‘This Will Never Go Away’ Continued on Page A8 Michelle Cottle PAGE A20 EDITORIAL, OP-ED A20-21 The Louisville police officer who fired the shot that killed Bre- onna Taylor, a Black emergency room technician whose death set off a wave of protests on American streets, was told on Tuesday that the department was moving to oust him from the force, as was a second officer who obtained a judge’s approval for the poorly planned nighttime raid on her home. The move is the most signifi- cant acknowledgment by the de- partment that its officers had committed serious violations when they burst through Ms. Tay- lor’s door late one night in March, encountered gunfire, and then fired a volley of shots at her and her boyfriend. The terminations mark an effort by the city’s inter- im police chief, Yvette Gentry, to achieve the reckoning she prom- ised when she came out of retire- ment to lead the troubled depart- ment into the beginning of the new year. Lawyers for Detective Myles Cosgrove, one of the officers who shot Ms. Taylor, and Detective Joshua Jaynes, who prepared the search warrant for the raid, said each had received notices of ter- mination. Both have been on ad- ministrative reassignment as the investigations have been under- way. Until now, the only officer held accountable in the case had been Brett Hankison, a detective, who was fired in June for violating the department’s deadly force policy by shooting off 10 rounds from out- side the apartment through two of Louisville to Fire Two Detectives Over the Raid That Killed Taylor By NICHOLAS BOGEL-BURROUGHS Continued on Page A17 The Nashville blast disrupted 911 call centers, hospital communications and cell service in several states, highlight- ing a structural weakness. PAGE A13 Vulnerable Connections The prime minister has vowed to re- place the E.U. program, but alumni say the move is shortsighted. PAGE A11 U.K. Exits Student Exchange Late Edition VOL. CLXX . . . No. 58,923 © 2020 The New York Times Company NEW YORK, WEDNESDAY, DECEMBER 30, 2020 Today, partly sunny, seasonably chilly, high 40. Tonight, increasing clouds, showers late, low 37. Tomor- row, morning rain, cloudy, milder, high 48. Weather map, Page B10. $3.00

ON $2,000 CHECKS OBSTRUCTS A VOTE SENATE S LEADERDec 30, 2020  · C M Y K x,2020-12-30,A,001,Bsx Nx -4C,E2 U(D54G1D)y+"!#!@!$!= Pierre Cardin, the visionary de-signer who clothed

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  • C M Y K Nxxx,2020-12-30,A,001,Bs-4C,E2

    U(D54G1D)y+"!#!@!$!=

    Pierre Cardin, the visionary de-signer who clothed the elite butalso transformed the business offashion, reaching the masses byaffixing his name to an outpouringof merchandise ranging from off-the-rack apparel to bath towels,died on Tuesday in Neuilly-sur-Seine, just outside Paris. He was98.

    His death, at the American Hos-pital there, was confirmed by theFrench Academy of Fine Arts. Nocause was given.

    “Fashion is not enough,” Mr.Cardin once told Eugenia Shep-pard, the American newspapercolumnist and fashion critic. “Idon’t want to be just a designer.”

    He was never just that. Hedressed the famous — artists, po-litical luminaries, tastemakersand members of the haute bour-geoisie — but he was also a licens-ing pioneer, a merchant to the gen-eral public with his name on a cor-nucopia of products, none too ex-alted or too humble to escape hisavid eye.

    There were bubble dresses andaviator jumpsuits, fragrances andautomobiles, ashtrays and evenpickle jars. Planting his flag on theRue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré inParis, he proceeded to turn thecountry’s fashion establishmenton its head, reproducing fashionsfor mass, ready-to-wear con-sumption and dealing a blow tothe elitism that had governed theParisian couture.

    In a career of more than three-quarters of a century, Mr. Cardinremained a futurist. “He had this

    Futuristic Designer for the Famous, and a Merchant to the MassesBy RUTH LA FERLA

    PIERRE CARDIN, 1922-2020

    Pierre Cardin, in 1979, had a global empire. “I was born an artiste, but I am a businessman,” he said.KEYSTONE, VIA GETTY IMAGES

    Continued on Page A18

    WASHINGTON — President-elect Joseph R. Biden Jr. on Tues-day criticized the speed of vaccinedistribution under the Trump ad-ministration and promised to stepup the pace when he takes office,while delivering a sober warningabout the toll of the coronaviruspandemic.

    Mr. Biden offered a bleak as-sessment of the months ahead,saying they would be “a verytough period for our nation,” andhe exhorted Americans to makethe sacrifices necessary to over-come the devastation of the virus.

    “It’s going to take all the gritand determination we have asAmericans to get it done,” he said.

    He warned that if the currentpace of administering vaccinesunder President Trump contin-ued, “it’s going to take years, notmonths,” to vaccinate the nation.And he said he had directed histeam to prepare a more ag-gressive effort once he takes officein three weeks, pledging “to moveheaven and earth to get us goingin the right direction.”

    “This is going to be the greatestoperational challenge we’ve everfaced as a nation,” Mr. Biden said

    Biden RebukesTrump on PaceOf Inoculation

    By THOMAS KAPLANand REBECCA ROBBINS

    Continued on Page A16

    A Black New Jersey man is suing theauthorities after being falsely accusedof crimes and spending 10 days in jailbecause of a flawed match. PAGE B1

    BUSINESS B1-6

    A Facial Recognition FailureIn the grip of the pandemic, the city hadhuge increases in homicides and shoot-ings while some other types of crimeplummeted. PAGE A13

    NATIONAL A12-17

    A Violent Year in New York

    Our critics look back at 26 restaurantsthat ceased operations during 2020.Above, delicacies at Mission ChineseFood in Manhattan. PAGE D5

    FOOD D1-12

    The Kitchen Is ClosedBeing Black kept K. C. Jones from beingfully appreciated as an N.B.A. coach,Harvey Araton writes. PAGE B7

    SPORTSWEDNESDAY B7-10

    Two Titles and Little CreditMexico’s brutal traffickers wereknocked sideways by the pandemic. Butthen they got creative. PAGE A9

    INTERNATIONAL A9-11

    How Drug Cartels Adapted Online classes can be especially chal-lenging for the 142,000 children in NewYork City who are learning English as anew language. PAGE A12

    The Loss of a Language

    Deep in the recent relief measure islong-sought national regulation of horseracing, Joe Drape writes. PAGE B8

    Heeding Call for Racing Reform

    Jeff Koons has entered the classroom at65, signing on as a MasterClass instruc-tor. An art critic tuned in to glean someof the master’s magic. PAGE C1

    ARTS C1-6

    The Artist as Teacher

    WASHINGTON — SenatorMitch McConnell blocked an at-tempt by Democrats on Tuesdayto hold an immediate vote on in-creasing stimulus checks to$2,000 from $600, leaving the fateof the measure unclear as Presi-dent Trump continued to demandthe larger payouts and more Re-publicans publicly endorsed theidea.

    Instead, Mr. McConnell, Repub-lican of Kentucky and the majorityleader, provided vague assur-ances that the Senate would “be-gin the process” of discussing$2,000 checks and two other is-sues that Mr. Trump has de-manded lawmakers address:election security and removing le-gal protections for social mediaplatforms.

    Mr. McConnell would not saywhether he planned separatevotes on the three issues or if hewould bring them for a vote on theSenate floor at all. But in a sign ofhow he might approach them, themajority leader introduced newlegislation on Tuesday afternooncombining the $2,000 checks,election security and social mediaprovisions into one bill, whichwould most likely doom the effort.

    The sudden talk of election se-curity complicates matters, giventhat Mr. Trump continues to claim,without evidence, that voter fraudcost him re-election. Democratswould undoubtedly resist any-thing that could be seen as tryingto undermine the outcome of theelection.

    Mr. McConnell, who has pri-vately urged his conference mem-bers not to object to the electionresults when Congress meets onJan. 6 to ratify them, portrayedthe president’s request as “explor-ing further ways to protect thesanctity of American ballots.” Thebill that Mr. McConnell is puttingtogether would create a biparti-san commission to study electionpractices that “strengthened” andthat “undermined the integrity ofthe election,” like the use of mail-in ballots and vote-by-mail pro-cedures, which Mr. Trump hasbaselessly complained encour-aged voter fraud.

    Mr. McConnell’s move came ashe faced growing pressure fromRepublicans to increase stimuluspayments to struggling Ameri-cans.

    SENATE’S LEADEROBSTRUCTS A VOTEON $2,000 CHECKS

    G.O.P. PRESSURE BUILDS

    Fate of Proposal RemainsUnclear as McConnell

    Offers Own Bill

    By CATIE EDMONDSON

    Senator Mitch McConnell, the majority leader, on Tuesday. Republicans who oppose $2,000 checks risk President Trump’s fury.AL DRAGO FOR THE NEW YORK TIMES

    Continued on Page A7

    THE VARIANT Colorado confirmeda case of the virus mutation thathas alarmed Britain. PAGE A7

    Hospitals all over China have al-most everything necessary for amass vaccination drive: Millionsof doses. Refrigerators to storethem. Health care workerstrained to administer them.

    Everything, that is, exceptproof that any of their vaccineswork.

    Unlike their Western competi-tors, the Chinese companies havenot disclosed data from late-stageclinical trials that would showwhether their vaccines are effec-tive, and regulators in China havenot officially approved them.

    That has not deterred local gov-ernments across the country,which have begun an ambitiousvaccination campaign. The goal isto inoculate 50 million people —roughly the population of Co-lombia — by the middle of Febru-ary, before the Lunar New Yearholiday, when hundreds of mil-lions are expected to travel.

    China, where the virus firstemerged a year ago, is going togreat — and scientifically unor-thodox — lengths to prevent a re-surgence of the outbreak. WhileBeijing has not officially an-nounced the vaccine target, thegovernment has signaled the roll-out will be managed in much thesame way as the outbreak,through a top-down approach thatcan mobilize thousands of work-ers to produce, ship and adminis-ter the shots. Local officials weretold that the drive was a “politicalmission.”

    The campaign will focus onwhat China calls “key prioritygroups,” including doctors, hotelemployees, border inspection per-

    Chinese Goal:Quick VaccineFor 50 Million

    Questions of Safety ina ‘Political Mission’

    By SUI-LEE WEE

    Continued on Page A8

    The routine things in ChrisLong’s life used to include biking30 miles three times a week andtaking courses toward a Ph.D. ineight-week sessions.

    But since getting sick with thecoronavirus in March, Mr. Long,54, has fallen into a distressingnew cycle — one that so far haslanded him in the hospital seventimes.

    Periodically since his initialfive-day hospitalization, his lungsbegin filling again; he startscoughing uncontrollably and runsa low fever. Roughly 18 days later,he spews up greenish-yellow flu-id, signaling yet another bout of

    pneumonia.Soon, his oxygen levels drop

    and his heart rate accelerates tocompensate, sending him to a hos-pital near his home in Clarkston,Mich., for several days, some-times in intensive care.

    “This will never go away,” hesaid, describing his worst fear.“This will be my going-forward forthe foreseeable future.”

    Nearly a year into the pan-

    demic, it’s clear that recoveringfrom Covid-19’s initial onslaughtcan be an arduous, uneven jour-ney. Now, studies reveal that a sig-nificant subset of patients are hav-ing to return to hospitals, some-times repeatedly, with complica-tions triggered by the disease orby the body’s efforts to defeat thevirus.

    Even as vaccines give hope forstopping the spread of the virus,the surge of new cases portendsrepeated hospitalizations formore patients, taxing medical re-sources and turning some peo-ple’s path to recovery into a Sisy-phean odyssey that upends theirlives.

    In the Hospital for Covid, for the Seventh TimeBy PAM BELLUCK Fighting to Recover and

    Fearing ‘This WillNever Go Away’

    Continued on Page A8

    Michelle Cottle PAGE A20EDITORIAL, OP-ED A20-21

    The Louisville police officerwho fired the shot that killed Bre-onna Taylor, a Black emergencyroom technician whose death setoff a wave of protests on Americanstreets, was told on Tuesday thatthe department was moving tooust him from the force, as was asecond officer who obtained ajudge’s approval for the poorlyplanned nighttime raid on herhome.

    The move is the most signifi-cant acknowledgment by the de-partment that its officers hadcommitted serious violationswhen they burst through Ms. Tay-lor’s door late one night in March,encountered gunfire, and thenfired a volley of shots at her andher boyfriend. The terminationsmark an effort by the city’s inter-im police chief, Yvette Gentry, to

    achieve the reckoning she prom-ised when she came out of retire-ment to lead the troubled depart-ment into the beginning of thenew year.

    Lawyers for Detective MylesCosgrove, one of the officers whoshot Ms. Taylor, and DetectiveJoshua Jaynes, who prepared thesearch warrant for the raid, saideach had received notices of ter-mination. Both have been on ad-ministrative reassignment as theinvestigations have been under-way.

    Until now, the only officer heldaccountable in the case had beenBrett Hankison, a detective, whowas fired in June for violating thedepartment’s deadly force policyby shooting off 10 rounds from out-side the apartment through two of

    Louisville to Fire Two DetectivesOver the Raid That Killed Taylor

    By NICHOLAS BOGEL-BURROUGHS

    Continued on Page A17

    The Nashville blast disrupted 911 callcenters, hospital communications andcell service in several states, highlight-ing a structural weakness. PAGE A13

    Vulnerable Connections

    The prime minister has vowed to re-place the E.U. program, but alumni saythe move is shortsighted. PAGE A11

    U.K. Exits Student Exchange

    Late Edition

    VOL. CLXX . . . No. 58,923 © 2020 The New York Times Company NEW YORK, WEDNESDAY, DECEMBER 30, 2020

    Today, partly sunny, seasonablychilly, high 40. Tonight, increasingclouds, showers late, low 37. Tomor-row, morning rain, cloudy, milder,high 48. Weather map, Page B10.

    $3.00