Oceans Process

Coastal Processes

NAUSET BEACH, CAPE COD

DO NOW: LIST 5 THINGS YOU KNOW

ABOUT OCEANS...

HOW DO OCEANS AFFECT EARTH’S SURFACE?

• Over 71% of earth’s surface is covered with ocean water

• Average oceanic depth is around 4km(that’s higher than Mt. Everest)

• Most of the sediment on land will erode into the oceans

• Sodium chloride is the most common salt found in the ocean-others include Mg, Ca, and K)

• If ocean water evaporates, the salt concentration will rise and precipitate out of solution (sedimentary rock)

Salt Pillars

• Longshore Transport: transport along shoreline due to waves-erodes shoreline

• Waves: caused by wind

How does the ocean water transport sediment?

Waves

• Wind pushes water into a wave (oscillates)

• The wave flattens out with decreasing depth

• Breaks when the top of wave is too far ahead of bottom

• Jetty: these are man made structures used to prevent beach erosion

Beach Structures due to Geologic Activity

• Barrier Islands-carved out by waves

• Sand Bar-deposit of sediments due to wave action

• Terraces: raised beach due to crustal uplift

• Baymouth Bar-formed by Longshore current closes off bay

• Spit: formed by longshore current -opened

• Wave Cut Cliff