1

Oak Quercus species

Propagation

Seed

Oaks have traditionally been propagated by seed. Gather acorns in the fall and place in

water to avoid desiccation and to separate viable seeds. Non-viable acorns and trash will

float and can be poured off. If the acorns are collected from the ground and the ground is

very dry, the seeds should be left in water overnight before separating to allow sound

acorns to absorb enough water to sink. If the ground is very wet, dry the acorns for a few

hours before putting in water so that unsound acorns will not sink. Water flotation is

never 100% successful, but will increase the germination percentage.

There are two groups of oaks, white and black, that determine seed treatments. White oak

types, such as Quercus virginiana (Live Oak, Virginia Live Oak, Southern Live Oak),

Quercus stellata (Post Oak, Iron Oak), and Quercus alba (White Oak) do not require

stratification for germination and can be sown immediately. Black oak types such as

Quercus falcata (Southern Red Oak, Spanish Oak, Red Oak, Spanish Red Oak), Quercus

velutina (Black Oak, Smooth Bark Oak, Yellow Oak, Yellow-Barked Oak, Quercitron)

Quercus laurifolia (Laurel Oak, Darlington oak, diamond-leaf oak), Quercus phellos

(Willow Oak), Quercus shumardii (Shumard Oak), and Quercus nigra (Water Oak,

Possum Oak) require stratification for 2-3 months at 400 F, or they can be set out in the

fall for natural stratification and germination in the spring.

The latest research indicates the acorns should be oriented with the cap side up and half

exposed in the germination media. Coir media has been effective. Cover the flats with

wire screens to protect against rodents.

Once the seedlings have emerged the root system can be undercut to stimulate a fibrous

root system rather than taproot. A sharp narrow blade is run horizontally under the

seedling bed soon after emergence to sever the taproot. Take care to not disturb the

seedling other than removing the tip of the taproot. Undercutting can be repeated two or

three times during the growing season while the plant is in active growth by increasing

the depth of cutting by about 2 inches for each successive cut. Undercutting should end

when a well-developed terminal bud forms.

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Cuttings

Oaks may be propagated by pencil size semi-hardwood tip cuttings taken in the summer

when the wood is gray for live oak, still greenish colored for other oaks, or red for Nuttall

oak. Strip off the lower leaves and lightly wound the base and then dip in hormones.

Growers report best success with 10,000 ppm IBA and 8,000 ppm NAA for live oak,

lower amounts for other oaks. Rooting should occur in 10-12 weeks in intermittent mist

and soil temperatures of 70-800 F. A media of 80% perlite and 20% peat is favored by

growers.

Grafting

Oaks can be grafted by side-veneer in late winter to a rootstock of the type of oak, black

or white, that the scion is from. Scions should be pencil size.

Nursery Practices

Oak production requires frequent watering, proper spacing, fertilization and stepping up

to a larger container before the seedlings become root-bound. If continuous growth is

maintained, then 5-foot trees can be grown from 6-inch seedlings in 9-10 months.

Stepping Up

Recently germinated seedlings that are less than 4-5 inches in height should be

transplanted into one gallon containers and then stepped up into 3 or 7 gallon containers

in about 4 months. To optimize growth, transplant the seedlings into 1 or 3 gallon

containers in late February. Vigorous seedlings taller than 6 inches can be placed directly

into 3 gallon containers and then stepped up into 15 gallon containers in 9-10 months,

planted or sold.

Rooted oak cuttings and seedlings should be carefully selected for quality and stepped up

as soon as enough roots have formed to hold most of the root-ball together when gently

removed from the container. The top inch of media should be removed carefully to check

for root defects such as kinks and "j" roots. Circling roots should cut or straightened at

any potting. Defective liners should be discarded. A 20% cull rate at the 1 gal stage is not

uncommon. The point where the top-most roots emerge from the trunk should be planted

near the top of the media.

There are many types of containers to choose from. Pots that reduce root circling, such as

ones with air holes for “air root pruning” and those treated with copper hydroxide to

discourage root growth against the surface, have been shown to produce a good fibrous

root system with fewer circling roots. Black plastic pots may become hot enough in our

weather conditions to discourage root growth, especially on the southern and western

sides. Any technique to insulate the pots may aid in growth. Pot-in-pot is a technique in

which holes are dug into the ground and a large pot put inside the hole. The potted tree is

then put down into the pot in the ground. This creates a cooler root environment and

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keeps the pots from blowing over. Trees may also be field grown in the ground or in

fabric “pots” above or below ground. Trees grown in fabric containers are easier to lift

than the same size tree balled-in-burlap because they are smaller and the roots are more

confined. However, they must be handled very carefully because unlike a rigid plastic

container, there is little structure or rigidity to the root ball. Roots are easily broken inside

the root ball. Field grown trees typically have fewer fibrous roots than container grown

trees, but have been shown to fare as well as container-grown plants in the landscape,

especially if they are hardened off after digging.

Fertilizer

Fertilize using a low to medium application rate of Osmocote (8 to 12 grams per 1 gallon

container or 30-40 grams for a 3 gallon of 18-6-12) or similar rates for Nutricote. After

four months, top-dress with similar amounts of 18-6-12 again if using Osmocote.

Increase this amount by 2-3 times after stepping up to a 15 gallon container.

In field nursery production, concentrating the fertilizer over the soil that will become the

root ball increases the number of fine roots in the root ball.

Irrigation

Prevent the plants from undergoing any water stress to achieve the best results. Minimize

the time spent in 1 gallon containers to reduce the odds the trees will incur growth-

stopping water stress. When transplanted into 3 gallon containers or larger, continuous

growth can be maintained by using cyclic (pulse) irrigation, e.g. watering twice to three

times per day with micro-irrigation. Micro-irrigation is exempt from water restrictions

because irrigation is placed directly in the container with little waste. Spray stakes

should be used instead of drippers to apply the water more uniformly over the substrate

surface. Optimum growth occurs when the last irrigation occurs close to sunset. When

irrigated twice, irrigations should start around noon and 7pm. When irrigated trice,

irrigation should start around 10am, 2:30pm and 8pm.

Volumes irrigated should be based on tree water usage. Each cycle should only apply

enough water to have a little draining from the bottom of pot. Thus the amount applied

each cycle should be increased as the tree grows. Trees should be checked monthly to

make sure sufficient water is being supplied. Extended excessive irrigation will leach out

the nutrients released by the fertilizer, inhibiting growth.

In field nursery production, concentrating the irrigation over the soil that eventually will

become the root ball increases root density in the root ball. Likewise, asymmetrically

placed irrigation can lead to poorly distributed roots.

Root Pruning

Growers prune roots of field grown plants to increase root density inside the root ball and

to ease harvesting. An alternative practice used in conjunction with root pruning is to

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place landscape cloth under the liner at planting to discourage deep roots and encourage

more shallow fibrous roots that will be easier to harvest at digging.

Roots should be pruned during the growing season with a blade like a square tipped

balling shovel inside of where roots will be dug at harvest. Roots are pruned eight inches

from the trunk on two opposite 1/8 circumference segments approximately every two

months until the whole root system has been circled. The cutting blade is at an angle

similar to that of a mechanical tree spade so that roots growing directly down under the

trunk are not cut. The following year the procedure can be repeated with the cuts made

approximately 14 inches from the trunk. New roots grow mostly from the point just

behind the cut.

Staking

Staking is used to keep the plants upright and to develop a straight trunk. There are many

ways to stake the trees, and all can be effective. Try to minimize staking by not using

more than two ties on the central leader at a time and only where necessary. Make sure

the ties will not girdle the trunk as the tree grows. By not crowding the seedlings and

allowing for some wind shaking, the need to stake will be reduced.

Pruning and Training

Prune to a central leader, if necessary, every 1-2 months. Remove any lateral branches

larger than 1/3 the diameter of the trunk at the point of contact. Leave small diameter

branches along the length of the trunk as long as possible to contribute to growth and

trunk caliper. With proper spacing, little pruning to maintain a central leader will have to

be done.

Fig. 1. General Guidelines for pruning to a central leader.

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Fig. 2. Types of pruning cuts. The two cuts on the left are reducing cuts. The collar of the

branch being removed should be left. Flush cuts heal more quickly, but are less strong in

the long term than cuts that retain the collar or wrinkled bark area around the crotch. The

two right hand cuts are heading cuts, and will stimulate branching below the cut, but the

branches are more likely to have poor crotch angles.

Fig. 3. Maintaining a dominant leader in years 2-6.

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Fig. 4. Summary of pruning in year one.

Fig. 5. Summary of pruning in year two.

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Fig. 6. Clear a short section of trunk to delineate bottom of permanent nursery canopy.

Do not completely remove lower branches because they contribute to tree growth, but

keep in control so they do not dominate the central leader.

Fig. 7. Good branch arrangement for Florida Fancy grade requires branches to be spaced

around the trunk, 6 inches apart, and none more than 2/3 the diameter of the trunk at the

point of connection.

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Pests and Diseases

The current Insect Management Guide for Commercial Foliage and Woody Ornamentals

can be found at http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/IG012. The current Professional Disease

Management Guide for Ornamental Plants can be found at http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/PP123.

Borers

There are a number of different borers that affect oaks, including: Flathead borers,

Roundhead borers, Ambrosia beetles, Clearwing moths and Carpenter worms. Borers,

although not usually visible, can be detected by symptoms such as foliage discoloration,

wilting, branch dieback, and small holes in the trunk of the tree. Further examination of

the trunk may reveal sap staining and sawdust or pellets on bark or at the base of the tree.

By carefully removing the bark around the borer holes, you may see the tunneling caused

by the larval stages of the beetles or by caterpillars, and may find the insects themselves.

However, the symptoms remain even after the insects pupate and adults exit from the

tree.

Trees affected are generally weakened or wounded by some other predisposing factor

such as root rot, soil disturbance, drought, flooding, senescence or physical injuries to

trunk or branches.

To avoid infestations, keep trees healthy. Remove and destroy severely infested trees, or

prune out dead and dying branches. Once infested, little can be done. Temporarily protect

other nearby trees with approved insecticides applied to the trunk from spring to fall.

Caterpillars

There are a number of different caterpillars that attack oaks, including: eastern tent, forest

tent, yellow neck, fall webworm, tussock moth, and leaf rollers. Look for caterpillars

hanging from silk strands, grouped in webs, or crawling up tree trunks, or on other plant

material under the oaks shortly after leaf emergence in the spring. Pellets of frass on

surfaces underneath trees may be conspicuous. Caterpillars feed on the foliage, causing

holes or jagged edges in leaves. Large numbers of caterpillars may cause complete

defoliation. Eastern tent caterpillars make webs in the crotches of branches. Other types

of caterpillars may be identified by color patterns and by unique tufts of hairs. Many

types have one generation per year; others may have two to four.

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Levels of infestation vary from year to year. Natural enemies and unfavorable weather

conditions usually keep populations low. Outbreaks do occur, but usually subside after

one to two years. Use an approved insecticide for high populations. Remove and destroy

tents of eastern tent caterpillars when first noticed.

Eastern Tent Caterpillars

Fall Webworm

Tussock Moth Caterpillar

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Insect-Induced Galls

Galls occur in many forms, colors and shapes. They may be hair-like projections,

spheres, rosettes or woody swellings and can occur on leaves or twigs or branches. The

malformed plant tissue, or gall, forms in response to egg-laying or feeding by wasps,

midges, mites, moths, aphids or beetles. The young insects develop inside, but cause little

or no damage to the tree. Small exit holes on the outside of the gall indicate that the

insects have already emerged, but the gall remains. Some beneficial organisms live in

abandoned galls. Infested trees will continue to support populations of gall insects. To

control galls, select gall-free plants. Stem and branch galls can be pruned out and

destroyed if not on main trunks or branches. Galls on stems and main branches may have

a girdling effect and will result in weak points and possible limb breakage if not removed.

Leaf galls are harmless, but unsightly.

Stem galls inside and out.

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Twig Girdler

Twig girdler damage is seen in the fall in wilted or dead twigs hanging in trees or on the

ground. The severed ends of the twigs appear to have been whittled to a dull point. The

beetle which causes this damage is seldom seen. It is about ¾ inch long, has a gray-

brown body and long antennae. To control this pest, collect and destroy twigs from the

ground which contain the immature twig girdlers. Insecticidal control is usually not

effective because it must be directed at the adults.

Twig Girdler damage.

Twig Girdler adult.

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Oak Leaf Blister

Oak Leaf Blister, Taphrina caerulescens, is a fungal pathogen that causes raised or

wrinkled blisters on new leaves during mild, rainy spring weather. Initially pale green,

the blisters turn brown and necrotic later in the season. Severe infections cause distortion

of newly expanding leaves. It is a surface blemish influenced by weather but fungicides

may be used. Rake fallen leaves to reduce inoculum for the following year.

Root and Butt Rots

Above ground symptoms of root and/or butt rots include various degrees of crown

dieback, loss or discoloration of foliage and a generally unhealthy appearance. Internally,

roots may show discoloration. Fruiting bodies (shelf fungi or mushrooms) at or near base

of tree are signs of specific fungi, but are not always present. Trees which have been

injured are susceptible to these diseases. Poor soil conditions (compaction, excessive

moisture, etc.) also favor disease. Discourage rots by keeping plants healthy with proper

planting and establishment. Avoid wounds to trunk and roots and do not plant too deeply.

Remove affected trees in the nursery to reduce spread from spores to other wounds.

Consider soil replacement or fumigation if replanting in the same site.

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Tubakia Leaf Spot

Tubakia leaf spot causes small brown leaf spots that may coalesce and cause leaf

distortion on new growth. Frequent overhead irrigation or abundant rainfall favor disease

development. Laurel and Shumard oaks are susceptible; live oak is not. Avoid overhead

irrigation of susceptible species to control this fungus. Apply registered fungicides if

infection is severe.

Mistletoe

Mistletoe is an evergreen parasitic plant that is usually noticed when oaks lose their

leaves in early spring. It is attached to the host plant with haustoria (root-like structures)

that take nutrients from the host. The sticky seeds are typically spread by birds from tree

to tree. Other tree hosts include pecan, hickories, and other hardwoods. To control the

spread, prune at least 1 foot below where the mistletoe is attached.

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Psocids

Psocids (tree cattle or bark lice) are small insects that actively move as herds on tree

trunks or branches. They may be covered with a fine webbing, which is often the first

sign noticed. The individuals are quite small (about ¼ inch), and the adults have wings.

Psocids are a curiosity, causing no harm to plants. They feed on debris such as lichens,

fungi, spores, and pollen.

Lace Bugs

Lace bug damage can be mistaken for mite damage. Small white spots are seen on the top

of the leaf while the insects and their exudates (minute black droplets) can be seen on the

back of the leaf. This damage may not be

severe enough in the landscape to require

chemical control, however growers

should refer to Commercial Foliage and

Woody Ornamental Arthropod Pest

Management at

http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/IG012, for the

latest control measures.

Wooly Aphids

Wooly oak aphids are small yellowish piercing sucking

insects that cause leaf yellowing and distortion. Their

waxy secretions look like cottony fibers on the leaves

and twigs. Natural enemies may not always keep them

under control. Insecticidal soaps, horticultural oils and

acephate or other systemic insecticides may be used to

control.

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Powdery Mildew

Powdery mildew will cause a white growth

on the leaves and distorted new growth.

Symptoms are worst under cool moist

conditions. Affected growth may be pruned

out or control measures can be found in

Commercial Foliage and Woody

Ornamental Arthropod Pest Management at

http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/IG012.

Spanish Moss

Spanish moss is an epiphyte, not a parasite. It obtains its nutrients from water and air and

is not harmful to the tree. In the nursery it should be removed from the tree to avoid

reducing tree growth by shading. Copper sprays may be used to help kill the moss, but

caution should be exercised to avoid damage to other plants.

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Grades and Standards Florida Department of Plant Industry developed grades and standards to ensure good

quality trees are sold. These grades are based on several criteria including: single

dominant trunk, quality of branch arrangement, natural form of the tree, caliper of the

trunk, spread of the tree, structural uniformity of the crown, and root-ball size.

Quality of Trunk Structure

Florida Fancy-There is one trunk, more or less in the center of the tree as shown above. It

may be straight or have a very slight bow less than 5°. The tip of the leader on the main

trunk must be intact and its terminal bud must be the highest part of the tree. No trunk or

branch can have a diameter greater than 2/3 the trunk diameter measured directly above

the branch crotch.

Florida #l- If the trunk branches (forks) into two nearly equal-diameter trunks in the

upper 1/2 of the tree, or there is one trunk, but it has a 5° to 15° bow the tree is graded

Florida #1. A noticeable but small void will be left in the crown after removing the top

portion of one of the trunks to create a single trunk. The tip of the leader on the main

trunk must be intact and its terminal bud must be the highest part of the tree.

Florida #2- The trunk branches into two nearly equal trunks along the lower ½ of the tree

as shown on the left; or, the trunk branches into three or more nearly equal-diameter

trunks in the upper ½ of the tree as shown on the right. The tree would not be

downgraded if competing trunks are 2/3 or less the diameter of one main trunk measured

above the crotch. Pruning to create only one trunk will leave a large void in the crown. If

there is one trunk, but it has a bow greater than 15° or a dogleg it would be graded

Florida #2.

Cull- The trunk branches into three or more nearly equal-diameter trunks along the lower

1/2 of the trunk.

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Quality of Branch Arrangement

Florida Fancy- Several branches are larger in diameter (and obviously more dominant)

than others. These (indicated by arrows) should be spaced at least 6" apart along the

trunk. No branches are greater than 2/3 the diameter of the trunk measured directly above

the branch. No major branches are oriented nearly vertical with the trunk. There may be

temporary branches on the lower trunk, but these should be no larger than 1/5 the

diameter of the trunk.

Florida #1- All branches are more or less equally dominant as shown in the left

illustration; or, as shown in the illustration on the right, there are several dominant major

branches but two are nearly equal diameter and less than 4" apart (see arrow at bottom).

Other branches of nearly equal diameter are at least 4" apart. One branch in the upper half

of the tree can be greater than 2/3 the diameter of the trunk measured directly above the

branch. No branch tips are taller than the trunk (see arrow).

Florida #2- Most major branches are oriented vertically; and/or nearly equal-diameter

major branches are located within 4" of each other at two or more positions on the trunk

(see arrows); and/or one or more branches in the lower half of the tree are larger than 2/3

the diameter of the trunk measured directly above the branch.

Cull- All branches are growing vertically, and they are forming narrow angles with the

trunk; or most major branches are growing from the same point on the trunk. Culls may

have only a few large branches as in the illustration on the right. Some are less than 4'

from the ground. Several branches of nearly equal diameter are opposite each other on

the trunk.

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For spreading and rounded shapes such as: laurel oak, live oak, sand live oak,

water oak, and white oak.

Caliper Min.

Tree

Height

Max.

Tree

Height

FL.

Fancy

Minimum

Crown

Spread

Diam.

#1

Min.

Crown

Spread

Diam.

#2

Min.

Crown

Spread

Diam.

Min.

B&B

Root-

Ball

Diam.

Min.

Grow

Bag

Root-

Ball

Diam.

Min.

Container

Volume

¼” 18” 30” 10” 8” 6” 6” - 4” sleeve

½” 24” 6’ 14” 12” 8” 8” - 1 Gal.

¾” 4’ 8’ 30” 24” 18” 14” - 3 Gal.

1” 5’ 10’ 36” 30” 24” 16” 12” 5 Gal.

1 ¼” 6’ 11’ 42” 36” 30” 18” 14” 7 Gal.

1 ½” 7’ 12’ 48” 42” 34” 20” 16” 15 Gal.

2” 8’ 15’ 54” 48” 42” 24” 18” 15 Gal.

2 ½” 9’ 16’ 60” 54” 48” 28” 18” 25 Gal.

3” 10’ 18’ 66” 60” 54” 32” 20” 45 Gal.

3 ½” 11’ 18’ 6’ 5 ½’ 5’ 36” 24” 65 Gal.

4” 12’ 22’ 7’ 6 ½’ 6’ 40” 30” 95 Gal.

4 ½” 14’ 24’ 8’ 7 ½’ 7’ 44” 36” 95 Gal.

5” 16’ 26’ 10’ 9’ 8’ 48” 36” 95 Gal.

5 ½” 17’ 28’ 11’ 10’ 9’ 50” - 200 Gal. Notes:

1. Any liner less than ¼” caliper shall be a minimum of 12” in height, well-rooted in its container which

shall not be less than 2” in diameter. Bare-root trees shall be so noted.

2. Ball depth on B&B stock shall be at least 2/3 of the root-ball diameter shown. For trees larger than 5 ½”

caliper, root-ball diameter shall be 8.5” for each inch of tree caliper. Trees grown in soils with a high water

table can have shallower root balls provided the root-ball diameter is increased to the next larger tree size in

the table.

3. For the purposes of determining minimum root-ball size, cured trees can have a caliper up to 1” larger

than indicated in the table.

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Example of grading for live oak:

Florida Fancy- There is one trunk up through the uniform crown.

Florida #1- The crown is uniform, but the trunk divides into two nearly equal-sized

trunks in the upper half of the tree. (The foliage hides the divided trunk so you cannot see

this in the photograph.)

Florida #2- The trunk divides into two nearly equal sized trunks in the lower half of the

tree.

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For pyramidal shapes such as: Darlington oak, pin oak, and Shumard oak.

Caliper Min.

Tree

Height

Max.

Tree

Height

FL.

Fancy

Minimum

Crown

Spread

Diam.

#1

Min.

Crown

Spread

Diam.

#2

Min.

Crown

Spread

Diam.

Min.

B&B

Root-

Ball

Diam.

Min.

Grow

Bag

Root-

Ball

Diam.

Min.

Container

Volume

¼” 18” 36” 10” 8” 6” 6” - 4” sleeve

½” 18” 4’ 14” 10” 8” 8” - 1 Gal.

¾” 3’ 5’ 15” 12” 10” 14” - 3 Gal.

1” 4’ 7’ 20” 16” 12” 16” 12” 5 Gal.

1 ¼” 5’ 9’ 24” 20” 16” 18” 14” 7 Gal.

1 ½” 6’ 11’ 30” 24” 20” 20” 16” 15 Gal.

2” 6’ 14’ 42” 36” 30” 24” 18” 15 Gal.

2 ½” 8’ 16’ 48” 42” 36” 28” 18” 25 Gal.

3” 9’ 18’ 58” 48” 40” 32” 20” 45 Gal.

3 ½” 10’ 18’ 65” 54” 44’ 36” 24” 65 Gal.

4” 10’ 22’ 6’ 5’ 4’ 40” 30” 95 Gal.

4 ½” 12’ 24’ 7’ 6’ 5’ 44” 36” 95 Gal. 5”

14’ 26’ 8’ 7’ 6’ 48” 36” 95 Gal. 5 ½”

15’ 28’ 9’ 8’ 7’ 50” - 200

Gal.

Notes:

1. Any liner less than ¼” caliper shall be a minimum of 12” in height, well-rooted in its container which

shall not be less than 2” in diameter. Bare-root trees shall be so noted.

2. Ball depth on B&B stock shall be at least 2/3 of the root-ball diameter shown. For trees larger than 5 ½”

caliper, root-ball diameter shall be 8.5” for each inch of tree caliper. Trees grown in soils with a high water

table can have shallower root balls provided the root-ball diameter is increased to the next larger tree size in

the table.

3. For the purposes of determining minimum root-ball size, cured trees can have a caliper up to 1” larger

than indicated in the table.

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For oval shapes such as: blackjack oak, bluff oak, post oak, sawtooth oak,

southern red oak, swamp-chestnut oak, and willow oak.

Caliper Min.

Tree

Height

Max.

Tree

Height

FL.

Fancy

Minimum

Crown

Spread

Diam.

#1

Min.

Crown

Spread

Diam.

#2

Min.

Crown

Spread

Diam.

Min.

B&B

Root-

Ball

Diam.

Min.

Grow

Bag

Root-

Ball

Diam.

Min.

Container

Volume

¼” 12” 30” 8” 6” 4” 6” - 4” sleeve

½” 2’ 6’ 12” 9” 6” 8” - 1 Gal.

¾” 4’ 8’ 24” 18” 12” 14” - 3 Gal.

1” 5’ 10’ 28” 21” 15” 16” 12” 5 Gal.

1 ¼” 5’ 11’ 30” 24” 18” 18” 14” 7 Gal.

1 ½” 6’ 12’ 36” 30” 24” 20” 16” 15 Gal.

2” 6’ 15’ 42” 36” 30” 24” 18” 15 Gal.

2 ½” 6’ 16’ 48” 36” 30” 28” 18” 25 Gal.

3” 7’ 17’ 60” 48” 42” 32” 20” 45 Gal.

3 ½” 8’ 19’ 6’ 5’ 4’ 36” 24” 65 Gal.

4” 9’ 22’ 7’ 6’ 5’ 40” 30” 95 Gal.

4 ½” 11’ 24’ 8’ 7’ 6’ 44” 36” 95 Gal.

5” 13’ 26’ 8’ 7’ 6’ 48” 36” 95 Gal.

5 ½” 14’ 28’ 9’ 8’ 7’ 50” - 200 Gal. Notes:

1. Any liner less than ¼” caliper shall be a minimum of 12” in height, well-rooted in its container which

shall not be less than 2” in diameter. Bare-root trees shall be so noted.

2. Ball depth on B&B stock shall be at least 2/3 of the root-ball diameter shown. For trees larger than 5 ½”

caliper, root-ball diameter shall be 8.5” for each inch of tree caliper. Trees grown in soils with a high water

table can have shallower root balls provided the root-ball diameter is increased to the next larger tree size in

the table.

3. For the purposes of determining minimum root-ball size, cured trees can have a caliper up to 1” larger

than indicated in the table.

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Example of grading for laurel oak:

Florida Fancy- Branches are well-distributed along a single trunk, and the crown is full.

The slight bend in the lower trunk is not severe enough to downgrade the tree.

Florida #l- Branches are well-distributed along a single trunk, but the crown is too

narrow. The tree would have been a Florida Fancy if the crown was slightly wider.

Florida #2- The trunk divides into three nearly equal-sized trunks in the upper half of the

tree.

Sources

1. Beeson, R.C. and Dana Venrick. Live Oak Production in Containers. 2001.

http://cfextension.ifas.ufl.edu/Nursery%20Production/Oak1pager.htm

2. Bledsoe, S. D., P. F. Harmon, and R. J. McGovern. 2004. Professional Disease

Management Guide for Ornamental Plants. University of Florida Bulletin PP202.

http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/PP123

3. Garber, M. P. and D. J. Moorhead. Production and Establishment of Wetland Trees

and Shrubs. The University of Georgia College of Agricultural & Environmental

23

Sciences & the Daniel B. Warnell School of Forest Resources Cooperative Extension

Service. http://www.ces.uga.edu/pubcd/b1082-w.html

4. Gilman, E. Producing quality shade trees. University of Florida Website.

http://hort.ifas.ufl.edu/woody/qualitytrees/index.htm

5. Grades and Standards for Nursery Plants. Florida Department of Agriculture and

Consumer Services. Division of Plant Industry.

http://www.doacs.state.fl.us/~pi/plantinsp/paaisp.html

6. Hamiliton, David F., and James T. Midcap. Seed Propagation of Woody Ornamentals.

2004. http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/EP029.

7. Neal, Cathy, Celeste White and Eleanor Foerste. Key Plant and Key Pests in Central

Florida Landscapes. University of Florida Extension slideset.

8. Osborne, Lance S., Eileen A. Buss, Catharine M. Mannion and James F. Price. 2005.

Commercial Foliage and Woody Ornamental Arthropod Pest Management. University of

Florida Bulletin ENY-311. http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/IG012

9. Woody Plant Seed Manual USDA Forest Service update on-line from Seeds of Woody

Plants in the United States (USDA Agric. Handbk. 450). http://wpsm.net

Federal and Florida laws require that all pesticides must be handled and applied in strict

accordance with the label and worker protection standards (re-entry times, protective

clothing, etc.). For complete information pertaining to use of any insecticide, follow the

label. Mention of trade names or commercial products in this article is solely for the

purpose of providing specific information and does not imply recommendation or

endorsement by the University of Florida.

Prepared by:

Juanita Popenoe, PhD, Extension Faculty, Regional Commercial Horticulture

Lake County Extension, 1951 Woodlea Rd., Tavares, FL 32778-4052

Tel.: (352) 343-4101, FAX: (352) 343-2767

June 2008

The Institute of Food and Agricultural Science (IFAS) is an Equal Opportunity Institution authorized to provide research, educational information and

other services only to individuals and institutions that function without regard to race, creed, color, religion, age, disability, sex, sexual orientation,

marital status, national origin, political opinions or affiliations. U.S. DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE, COOPERATIVE EXTENSION SERVICE,

UNIVERSITY OF FLORIDA, IFAS, FLORIDA A. & M. UNIVERSITY COOPERATIVE EXTENSION PROGRAM, AND BOARDS OF COUNTY

COMMISSIONERS COOPERATING.