F O OT W E A R N E W S .C O M / F E B R U A R Y 2 2 , 2 0 1 6 / @ F O OT W E A R N E W S

NYC’S FINESTThe 20 best looks from the fallfashion runways

HARDYFAREPierre Hardy turns up the volume with punk pieces

NEXT0F KINHow footwear’s new generation is making its mark

BEST OF SHOWS

In a fast-changing market, Charlotte Olympia Dellal continues to ignite excitement. Her latest act? A high-profi le turn on the London catwalk.

THECLEVER ONE

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INSIDER

7 Runs In The Family Three

next-gen footwear leaders talk about

trying to make their mark.

10 FN Faces Which designers, retail-

ers and execs hit the town in Vegas?

12 FN Spy Kanye West’s Yeezy

Season 3 and Rihanna’s Puma line

take center stage at NYFW.

13 GDS Trade Show: Buyer Sound-Off Slow consumer

sales force retailers to readjust their

buying strategies.

FEATURES

14 Olympian Heights Charlotte

Olympia Dellal continues to forge

ahead with her distinct approach.

18 Women’s Top 20 The most

newsworthy shoes from the fall

collections in New York.

MARKETPLACE

23 Shoe Of The Week Alaïa’s

first sneaker silhouette signals a

sporty direction for the label.

24 Inspiration Point Pierre Hardy

taps into retro fashion, music and

architecture trends for his fall line.

25 Shore Thing How Dune London

is building its U.S. business with a

wave of new doors.

26 Brave It In Boots Street

style at NYFW merged practicality

and pizzazz.

28 Good Taste Maria Cornejo

dishes on the hobbies and habits

that help her relax.

29 Closet Case Find out which

kicks are coveted by jewelry

designer Jennifer Meyer.

30 Hot Iron Fall’s coziest slippers

look chic in shades of gray.

32 Leader Board SG Cos. chief

Bernie Leifer on big business

decisions and his succession plan.

FN PICK

34 A Lively Affair Michael Kors’

NYFW show drew a high-wattage

crowd, including Blake Lively.

3

18Rodarte’s ruffled pumps on conical heel

ON THE COVER

Photographed by

PAUL STUART

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7

INSIDER

How three next-generation shoe business executives are forging their own paths to success.

By Neil Weilheimer

Runs In The

Family

hen Jori Miller wanted to join

her family business, she was

initially rejected. Determined to

work alongside her father and

grandfather at the Minnetonka Moccasin

Co., she broached the subject a second time.

Again, she was turned down. Sensing she

wouldn’t take no for an answer, her father

and other executives drew up specific plans

for allowing their children to enter the

Minneapolis-based company.

“I had to jump through hoops,” Miller,

now VP of product development at Min-

netonka, said during a panel discussion on

family businesses, held at FN Platform.

Miller’s father, third-generation Min-

netonka CEO David Miller, was so intent

on having his daughter learn the ropes on

her own that he avoided managing her

during her early years with the company.

“Jori finding her own way was a

priority, so for those first five years, she

did not report to me,” Miller said. “Each

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Jesse Edelman,Jori Miller,

Seth Campbell

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circumstance and decision is

situational. We have a positive,

healthy relationship, and we

feed off each other’s experience

and perspective.”

The footwear industry is

filled with pioneering families

that have multiple generations

working side by side.

But for all their feel-good

stories, there are plenty of

challenges that come with

successful family legacies. In

fact, they are often fraught with strained relation-

ships stemming from conflicts over power, loyalty

and future direction.

Often, it’s not easy determining what outside

experience newer generations should have, their

starting salaries and level. And all of that has to be

balanced with making sure the next generation

has enough leeway to test new ideas.

Most young leaders on the panel acknowledged

that growing up around the business — and

witnessing firsthand both the perks and the hard,

daily grind — yielded some of their most valuable

lessons.

“I learned a lot from my dad,” Seth Campbell,

VP of international sales at BBC International,

told the audience in Las Vegas. “But the one thing

that sticks out the most is his hard work. He is

78 years old and just got back from a 14-day trip

to China.”

The younger Campbell, who, like his father,

traveled more than 100 days in the last year, said

that he is helping to push the company into new

territory.

For instance, he added the athletic label Feiyue

to BBC’s roster of owned and licensed brands and

has sharpened the firm’s messaging.

“For years, our focus at BBC was product and

price, product and price,” he

said. “I changed that mix to

product, price and market-

ing. The need for it in this

competitive environment is

more important than ever.

That’s one piece of business

I try to push.”

But sometimes, even the

best minds clash.

Healthy debate is good,

said the panelists, but what’s far more crucial is

not letting it hinder the brand. In fact, respect for

one another’s differences can be a critical element

to the company’s success, they noted.

“[My father and I] are both strong-willed. We

believe in what we believe in,” said Campbell,

who first worked in the business at a factory

in China when he was just 13 years old. “But,

ultimately, I listen, since he’s the more experi-

enced one.”

While he has always been a supportive father,

BBC founder and CEO Bob Campbell said he has

not made working in the family business an easy

endeavor for his son.

“Seth has had to learn how we do things. I

didn’t give him any sense of having a silver spoon.

He started at the bottom,” Bob Campbell said.

“He has learned a lot about our international

business and our branded business. I don’t

encourage him to try new things, but he brings

me new ideas every day. He’s a very creative

person.”

For his part, Jesse Edelman, national brand

manager for the Caleres-owned brands Circus

by Sam Edelman and Sam & Libby, said it is

important for both parents and their children

to know when to compromise.

“Being able to provide input and

receive criticism is part of the

process,” he said. “At the end of the

day, we are all trying to create

successful brands and messaging.”

According to father Sam Edelman,

a sound business model with

appropriate checks and balances

has also made his son’s work with

the company more fruitful.

“Having layers and structure

within the organization provides

Jesse with the freedom to make his

own decisions while knowing we are always

available for guidance along the way,” the elder

Edelman said.

Still, working in a family business can be a

balancing act. That’s certainly true when it comes

to establishing boundaries for discussing work.

Most panelists, however, said they enjoy the

constant discussion with their parents.

“We have a good mix. We don’t talk about it

all the time but we do talk about it a lot,” said

Jori Miller. “Sometimes I’ll say to my father,

‘Take your CEO hat off and put your dad hat on.’”

“We talk about business 24/7,” added Jesse

Edelman. “Sometimes we have to take a break

[from it], but the exciting part is you have access

to them and can always ask a question.”

Experts said unseasonable weather and ongoing market turbulence may continue to weigh on shoe retailers in 2016.8

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I N S I D E R

HANDLING BUSINESS

Retailers at FN Platform weigh in on

techniques for tackling economic challenges

By Barbara Schneider-Levy

What is your strategy for

counteracting a soft business

climate and macroeconomic

uncertainty?

SHELISSA SPEEDMANAGER, BRILL’S SHOES, SAN BERNARDINO, CALIF.“If you give great customer service, consumers are will-ing to spend more money. It’s also about positive word of mouth. It’s all about under-promising and overdelivering. And while traffic has been down, we have seen multiple-purchase sales.”

AMY COYKENDALLOWNER, DESERT BIRKENSTOCK,HENDERSON, NEV.“We’ve added more colors, new brands and eye-catch-ing displays. We’re always in contact with our customers through our website, emails and postcards. Remember-ing names and keeping records of purchase history is also a big focus.”

GREG STOVALLOWNER, SHOE FITTERS,ALBUQUERQUE, N.M.“We’re looking for new ven-dors as well as closeout to drive our existing business. We’re also sharpening up our e-commerce business, Shoolu.com, which has taken off.”

DOROTHY SCOTTOWNER, SOLE MATES,BAINBRIDGE ISLAND, WASH.“We started selling on Amazon.com about a year ago. They have the power of all the search engines behind them. We can move out odds and ends. We can also sell full-price [product] there to a huge audience.”

“Having layers and structure

within the organization

provides Jesse with freedom.”

Sam EdelmanSam and Libby Edelman

Bob Campbell

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10 I N S I D E R

XxxxxxxXxxxxxxxxxxx

Joel Oblonsky,Joe Ouaknine

Show Time

Rupert Sanderson,Kristina Blahnik

Matt Priest,Ron Fromm

Donna Mattick, Clay Jenkins,Buddy Teaster,Nancy Youssef

Debbie Hill, Steve Hill Carrie Rubin

Xxxxxx Xxxxxx

André Assous

Lori MonacoGabriel Morales,Sari Ratsula

Don FelderMatt Bernson, Rick Cytrynbaum

Michael Greenberg,Robert Greenberg

Sandi Mines,Tarek Hassan,

Isack Fadlon

Steve MaddenKenneth Cole David Kahan

D’Wayne Edwards,Christopher Dixon,John McIsaac

Ron WhiteGreg Tunney

Buyers and sellers on the

FN Platform show floor

Dave Grange

Footwear’s elite convened in Las Vegas for FN Platform last week. Former Eagles band member Don Felder gave the show a rock ’n’ roll start with a red-hot performance on opening night. The good times rolled on with FN’s cocktail party at the Bellagio on Wednesday evening. Sam Poser, Bob Goldman,

Bob Campbell, Leslie Gallin

Faces Sonny Shar,Diane Sullivan,

Jay Penske

Olga Grib,Jury Artola

Beneficiary of “FFANY SHOES ON SALE”

SINCE 2003

Salutes

and Thanks

CELEBRATING ITS

5TH ANNIVERSARY

AS A SPECIAL

PINK BENEFACTOR

FFANY extends special appreciation to

for its longstanding commitment to

expanding outreach through QVC Presents

“FFANY Shoes on Sale” and help to generate

over $50 million for first-step research to

find a cure for breast cancer.

The Breast Cancer Research Founda-

tion’s fight against its namesake disease

has been a case of the shoe fitting very

comfortably and wearing well as far as its

partnership with the Fashion Footwear

Association of New York.

QVC Presents “FFANY Shoes on Sale” has contributed

more than $4 million since 2003 that BCRF has invested

in cancer research. Since its founding in 1993 by Evelyn H.

Lauder, BCRF has raised more than half a billion dollars

to fight breast cancer. It is the highest-rated breast cancer

organization in the U.S., and the largest private funder of

breast cancer research worldwide. This year, BCRF has

awarded grants of $54 million to 240 scientists working

in 13 nations. BCRF’s collaboration with FFANY kicks off

this yearlong series of Footwear News tributes to FFANY’s

cancer-research partners.

“The footwear industry has rallied around this cause

with passion and dedication that is second to none,” says

Myra J. Biblowit, who will mark 15 years in April as pres-

ident of BCRF and friend to the late Evelyn, daughter-in-

law of cosmetics magnate Estée Lauder. “Evelyn had what

she called the ‘shoe gene,’ and she truly supported the

footwear industry. She admired and appreciated FFANY,

which continues to reciprocate the honor.”

“The footwear industry has been a powerful partner

to BCRF in funding critical breast cancer research, and

DOCTORS & SHOE BIZ FIGHT CANCERThe two forces plan to kick off a yearlong public awareness campaign with powerful tributes.

ADVERTORIAL

FFANY has been at the forefront of that drive,” says

Leonard A. Lauder, chairman emeritus of The Estée

Lauder Companies, Inc. “When, and not if, we eradi-

cate breast cancer, it will be thanks… to dedicated part-

ners like FFANY.”

Dr. Larry Norton, BCRF’s scientific director and med-

ical director of the Evelyn H. Lauder Breast Center at

Memorial Sloan Kettering Cancer Center in New York,

emphasized the FFANY influence on new types of can-

cer research. “FFANY’s BCRF grant is called the First

Step Award because it is designed to support true med-

ical innovation, ideas that despite being brilliant are new

and hence untested,” Norton says. “It promotes the kind

of work that leads to major advances.”

For a specific anticancer gain, Dr. Rachel Hazan, BCRF

grantee and professor of pathology at Albert Einstein Col-

lege of Medicine in New York, says that she was “grate-

ful” to QVC Presents “FFANY Shoes on Sale,” because “it

has allowed my lab to make major advances in research

related to a type of breast cancer—called HER2+—that

accounts for nearly 25% of all cases” as well as contribu-

tions to better understand metastasis, the traveling of can-

cer cells from one organ to another.

“The study of metastasis is a key focus of BCRF’s work,”

says Marc Hurlbert, PhD, BCRF’s chief mission officer, “as

are other critical areas including prevention programs,

new treatments and quality of life issues to meet the needs

of the patients.”

“Supporting breast cancer research is an important

cause for our company,” said Alex Del Cielo, chairman

and CEO of the Greenwich, CT-based Camuto Group,

an important donor

through FFANY. “We

have always been

committed to issues

facing today’s women,

and breast cancer has

touched the lives of

each and every one

of us.” Added Louise

Camuto, chief creative

officer: “As a woman,

I know so many indi-

viduals who have

suffered and it is up

to us to continue to

partner as an indus-

try to help support

the goal of eradicat-

ing breast cancer.”

THE BREAST CANCER RESEARCH FOUNDATION

“The footwear industry has been a powerful partner to BCRF in fund-ing critical breast cancer research, and FFANY has been at the fore-front of that drive,” —Leonard A. Lauder, chairman emeritus of The Estée Lauder Companies, Inc.

This year BCRF is supporting

240 renowned scientists around

the world.

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12 I N S I D E R Puma confi rmed a shoe deal with Kanye West’s sister-in-law Kylie Jenner last week.

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KANYE WESTThe music All Kanye, all from his new album, “The Life of Pablo.” Yeezy Season 3 was a demonstration of his multimedium creative prowess rather than a typical fashion show.The shoes His much-sought-after Yeezy Boost 350 received a color update, and his Yeezy Boost 1050 – now featuring Gore-Tex – was also on prominent display on West himself. But many of the models were in Adidas Originals classics, including the Stan Smith and Superstars.The clothes Warmed-up neutral tones dominated. Tattered sweaters, oversize down jackets and trench coats accompanied joggers, knit leggings and loose-fitting sweats.The venue West turned Madison Square Garden, “The Mecca of Basketball,” into the mecca of hip-hop style for one evening. The home of the New York Knicks was taken over by fashion and West enthusiasts, many of whom wore their Yeezys with pride.The celebs The Kardashians, the Jenners, Pusha T, Kid Cudi, Tyga, 50 Cent, Young Thug, Travis Scott, Wale, Lamar Odom, Jaden Smith, Miguel, Carine Roitfeld, Anna Wintour, Caitlyn Jenner, Kris Jenner, Olivier Rousteing, Big Sean, Gigi Hadid, 2 Chainz, A$AP Rocky, Karlie Kloss, Von Miller and Nick Young.The drama West isn’t a fan of Nike, and apparently neither are his fans. An anti-Nike chant broke out toward the show’s end, prompting West to play “Facts,” his song dissing the brand.

Fashion Face-OffTwo of hip-hop’s biggest stars — Rihanna and Kanye — generaged serious headlines during NYFW. Here, Spy compares the top hits from their buzzed-about shows.

Top Chef When Paul Mayer isn’t cooking at home, he is at one of his favorite restaurants in New York City — Joe Allen. The old-school theater restaurant is perfect before or after seeing a Broadway show like “Hamilton,” Mayer told Spy. His go-to dishes include the steak tartare and the meatloaf. “They pour a real drink, too,” the designer added. The restaurant is a hangout for theater types and stars, and Liza Minnelli is often spotted there, said Mayer.

PaulMayer

Field of Dreams Carolina Panthers cornerback Cortland iFinnegan may play a tough guy on the football field, but as the president of new women’s comfort brand Christopher Coy, he’s revealing his softer side. “I hate to see a woman at midnight holding her shoes walking down the street because they hurt,” said Finnegan. Since the business is women’s-only, Finnegan said his favorite shoe in his closet is a pair of high-top sneakers from Christian Louboutin.

By Kristen Henning

With contributions from FN Staff

Launch Party A new player is here. Artola Brooklyn is launching a women’s collection for fall ’16, featuring feminine touches like rose-gold linings and a signature coffee-washed leather on a variety of boots and menswear-inspired styles. “We are keeping with our beautiful leathers we use for men’s,” said cofounder Olga Grib at FN Platform. “Most people launch women’s first and then men’s. We are doing the opposite.” As for a future celebrity fan, Grib said Taylor iSwift fits the overall vibe well: “She’s amazing and also a very creative person.”

Music Man Before he hit FN Platform bright and early Tuesday morning, BBC chief Bob ICampbell and his wife had an unforgettable night at the Grammy Awards, courtesy of their friends at Gucci. “I loved

iLady Gaga’s David Bowie itribute, the Lionel Richie

tribute and Adele’s performance,”

Campbell said. “And we even walked the red carpet!”

Cortland Finnegan

RIHANNAThe music No Rihanna tunes in sight (though we wished she would have busted out a single from her new album, “Anti”). Electro beats accompanied models down the runway instead. The shoes Boxer-inspired booties in yellow and black had stiletto heels and pointed toes. The creeper sneaker reached new heights with extra-thick flatform soles. Leather wedge boots cut mid-calf were a departure from the collection’s otherwise sporty aesthetic. The clothes All black (and white) everything. Deconstructed jogger pants and anoraks teamed up with more fashion-focused pieces like fur coats and punky face jewelry. The venue A behemoth space on Wall Street. Large, ominous chrome tree trunks lined the runway, which later filled with fog.The celebs Chris Rock, Naomi Campbell, Ne-Yo and Bella and Gigi Hadid (who both walked the runway). The drama Arriving late in typical

supermodel fashion, Naomi Campbell booted a showgoer from their front-row

seat. Paparazzi madness ensued.

TaylorSwift

Lady Gaga

KanyeWest

Rihanna

ith a tough year behind them, buyers at the February GDS trade fair in Germany said they are reviewing

their strategies in hopes of improv-ing sales in 2016.

“Morale is rotten,” said retailer Anja Nehrke, who runs the Avanti chain of shoe stores in Lower Sax-

ony. “Last year was really difficult. So this year we’re ordering less and re-structuring to include more textiles.”

The German Footwear Retailers Association reported that shoe sales were down 1.5 percent in 2015, de-spite the fact that positive consumer sentiment drove up overall retail sales by 3 percent.

A mild winter, with record highs

in November and December, meant shoes simply didn’t take priority on consumers’ shopping lists, said GDS director Kirsten Deutelmoser.

“None of the retailers really had a good season. There was no winter at all,” she said.

Other factors included increased competition from fashion retailers carrying more shoes and changing consumer preferences, Deutelmoser added.

Despite the tough market, exhibi-tors at the GDS show said Germany remains essential to their business.

“We are dependent on the Ger-man and Swiss markets because they are the most robust,” said William Rich, European sales direc-tor for classic U.S. bootmaker Frye. “Most of Europe used to be healthy, but in 2013, France and Italy dropped off the map.”

Exhibitors also said they appreci-ate the German mar-ket’s dependability, though retailers are less prone to taking risks on trends.

“The German buy-ers are conservative. They go for comfort-able, classic styles,” said Adam Toma, account manager for Italian brand agency Massimo Bonini. “But Germany is the best market for Europe because it’s so big and Germans are willing to spend more on shoes.”

This relative strength of the German market drew an impressive number of new exhibitors to the

show despite the 2015 slump. “We’re trying to break into the

German market,” said first-time attendee Sanoe Nank, international sales director at Megumi Ochi. “Ger-man clients are loyal and pay their bills on time.”

But Deutelmoser said a cautious approach among German retailers may be part of why sales dipped last year. “I hope that retailers have learned from this,” she said. “They have to change and create more stories and emotionality around the shoes to attract people.”

That approach has worked well for retailer Jonas Ariaens, who had his most successful year yet in 2015 by stocking trendy high-end styles from companies like United Nude at his eponymous shop in Lüne-burg. Next season, Ariaens said, his strategy will involve keeping order numbers static but increasing

price points. “What we’ve learned is that if people love a shoe, the price matters less,” he said.

Deutelmoser said changes in apparel trends could create an opportunity for retail-ers to recover from last year. “People need different shoes to keep up with these

trends,” she said.Glitter, both delicate and tough

studs, subtle animal prints, plaids, suede patchwork, fur embellish-ments, large bows and thickening soles were among the standout trends at the show.

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The GDS trade fair in Germany

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GDS Trade Show: Buyer Sound Off

Retailers in Germany are testing new strategies after several factors affected their 2015 sales. By Kristen Allen

“What we’ve learned is that if people love a shoe, the price matters less.” Jonas Ariaens, retailer in

Lüneburg, Germany

Although exhibitors at The Micam trade fair in Milan last week said they felt the effects of troubled Russian and Asian markets, they remain optimistic for 2016 and plan to penetrate new markets, including the U.S., Indonesia and Japan.

Annarita Pilotti, president of Italian footwear manufacturers association Assocalzaturifici and CEO of luxury shoe brand Loriblu, said the Micam show remains im-

portant to exhibitors and buyers, despite economic challenges.

According to Pilotti, the depreciation of the ruble has led to a reduction in exports from Italy to Russia — a problem the Italian industry grappled with last year and still faces in 2016.

Gimmi Baldinini, CEO of Italian brand Baldinini, shared Pilotti’s concerns, but remained hopeful about the Russian market. Baldi-nini’s company has 100 franchised stores in Russia and plans to open a 10,763-sq.-ft. subsidiary in Moscow by the end of the year.

“Russia has always been one of our key markets,” Baldinini said. “The opening of a headquarters is the natural evolution of a 30-year

presence in the area, where we are protagonists of footwear and accessories made in Italy.”

Stefano Cioccoloni, CEO of Italian shoe manufacturer Aldo Bruè, said the brand is also looking to increase its presence in Russia with a new store, but remains cautious. “We are worried about the problems, but our position is not bad because our sell-out is strong,” said Cioccoloni.

He added that Korea, China and Indonesia are on the agenda in the future, as well as the U.S., where the company has a showroom.

Jerry Giannini, CEO of Italian brand Doucal’s, said his business registered 15 percent gains in revenue in 2015, with significant

growth in Italy and Central Europe. For 2016, Giannini sees poten-

tial in Europe and the U.S., but said that the brand is currently shying away from Asia. “I don’t believe that the Asian market could be interesting for us in the next two to three years,” he said.

For premium sneaker brand D.A.T.E., 2015 was also a solid year, as the brand opened in Korean and Russian markets. It expects 10 percent revenue growth in 2016. “Opening [in] the U.S. market is a hard story, because we need a lot of investments,” said D.A.T.E. founder and CEO Tommaso San-toni, who noted that he also wants to enter the Emirates and Japan.

Also pumped to penetrate the

U.S. are Giovanni Fabiani, Serafini and comfort brand Igi & Co., which recently signed a distribution deal for the U.S. and Canada.

“We made an agreement with Eastman Footwear Group Inc.,” said Gabriele Ferretti, sales man-ager of Igi & Co.’s parent company, Imac Spa Group. “They are already very strong in the distribution of a lot of brands and decided to up-grade their offerings by importing some European labels.”

Giovanni Fabiani said his namesake brand saw an 11 percent sales increase in 2015, but he predicts even greater growth potential in the U.S. The company will open a showroom in New York this year. — By Lucie Janik

Global Agenda Attendees at Milan’s Micam trade fair eye international markets for the year ahead.

14

Charlotte Olympia Dellal, photographed for Footwear News on Feb. 4 at her Brompton Cross store in London

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As she makes her boldest fashion statement yet for fall ’16, Charlotte Olympia Dellal talks about her journey so far and the big opportunities that are still ahead. By Katie Abel

Photographed by Paul Stuart

ourteen days before her London Fashion Week runway debut, Charlotte Olympia Dellal vividly recalled the high-energy catwalk shows she experienced at a

young age.“It was always so impressive and exciting

to see something that was live and real. I remember the girls had so much personal-ity, and they didn’t all look exactly the same. They were a little more free,” observed the designer, who held her first show last Friday. “It just felt like the right moment.”

Dellal has had a knack for good timing ever since she made her grand entrance onto the footwear stage in 2007. She instantly invigorated the market with her unique style and vision for a brand that was equal parts glamour and fun. Today, she continues to forge ahead with her distinct approach, even as the luxury market faces major changes and fresh challenges.

What stands out most about Dellal is her intense focus on details — whether she’s launching an imaginative collection, throw-ing an unforgettable dinner party or dream-ing up an intricate presentation. “Charlotte is the queen of clever,” said Lauren Santo Domingo, cofounder of Moda Operandi.

For the designer’s fans — and Dellal her-self — stepping onto the runway seemed like a natural move.

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15

“I’m excited to see the shoes walk. As much as

they’re objects, they look extra good walking.”

— Charlotte Olympia Dellal, here with her sister Alice Dellal at the British Fashion Awards in November

Charlotte On…Her breakout celeb moment: “One of the fi rst celebrities to wear my shoes was Sarah Jessica Parker at her ‘Sex and the City 2’ premiere [in 2010]. In terms of a character, she is someone who is known for loving shoes, so there couldn’t have been a better person to wear them.”

Person she would most like to see in her shoes: “Rita Hayworth, dancing in my shoes with Fred Astaire. That would have been good. It’s one thing to see my shoes walking, but I love to see them dancing.”

What motherhood has taught her:“It teaches you how to prioritize things better. It puts things into perspective. As much as I love what I do, it’s not the be-all, end-all. Life is with my family and my kids. I’m lucky that I have my own business and that my offi ce is next to my home. Motherhood and my profes-sional career took off at the same time, so it’s not like I had to choose to have a baby at the right time. I don’t know any diff erent.”

Other designers she admires:“I love Schiaparelli as a brand and what Elsa Schiaparelli did as a person and a creative. I admire Miuccia Prada, who has a fantastic brand, vision and aesthetic.”

Her love of Brazil:“Since I’m half Brazilian and my mom grew up there, I say it’s my home away from home. I experience it on both levels, and it is always inspiring going back. I speak Portuguese, I like Brazilian food, my boys do jiu jitsu.”

Making Instagram personal:“I don’t have a personal account and a brand account — it’s all the same. My audience is focused

on my brand, but the fact that I’m doing it makes it more per-sonal. It doesn’t feel corporate

and it’s not just still-life imagery or product, but little insights into

what I’m seeing.”

Her next big travel destination:“I’m going to Japan soon. I love that it’s on the other side of the world from London. Everyone’s asleep at home and I’m awake. I can switch off the phone and live a bit diff erently. You feel like you have to have time to discover because it’s so far away. There are fewer things in the back of your [mind].”

Last year, the designer created a scholarship fund for her alma mater, Cordwainers at the London College of Fashion.

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The Millicentnight-blue glitterplatform withsculptural heel

always have an underlying theme for every col-

lection. In the showroom, it translates with the

fl owers I have or the music I play. Now it’s on a

diff erent level,” she explained. “Maybe my inspira-

tion will come to life a bit more. I’m excited to see

the shoes walk. As much as they’re objects, they look extra

good walking.”

Of course, staging a runway show isn’t typical for an

accessories designer. But Dellal hasn’t stuck to a traditional

playbook in her career — and she’s determined to build her

brand her own way. “My process is probably more like a

ready-to-wear designer, and I always think about what the

girls would wear even if I’m just showing shoes,” said Dellal,

who titled her new collection “The Girl Who Fell to Earth”

and was inspired by retro science fi ction movie posters and

comic books.

The designer emphasized that while her models are

wearing Charlotte Olympia creations from head to toe, the

emphasis is not on the clothes. “I’m not launching ready-

to-wear,” she said. In fact, Dellal intended for the apparel to

be understated, while the shoes and other accessories are

crafted using colors and textures to make them stand out.

And for fall, she continues to push the envelope by focusing

on her signature platforms in a bigger and bolder way.

Hair and makeup also were a major focus for the design-

er, whose retro curls and red lips help defi ne her own strik-

ing style. “I think of them as accessories, too,” she explained.

s Dellal prepared for the show — which took place

at Roundhouse, a performing arts venue in Cam-

den — fashion insiders were eagerly anticipating

her turn on the catwalk. “Charlotte’s presentations

are always more of a happening than a market

appointment, so I couldn’t wait to see what she was going to

do when she had a full-fl edged show,” said longtime friend

and Vanity Fair editor Derek Blasberg, who fi rst met the de-

signer 14 years ago, when they were at university in London.

“What I think we liked in each other was a sense of fun. Not

much has changed.”

What has changed dramatically for Dellal, 34, is the

size and scope of her brand — and her family, too. “I

always [measure] key moments in the business by

thinking about which of my children had been born,”

she said. “I started when I was pregnant with my fi rst

son,” said the now mother of three. “So my kids have

grown as the business has grown.”

The company reported an average annual growth

rate of 45 percent over the last four years. It now

16 C O V E R S T O R Y

“I

A

operates 10 stores in markets around the world, includ-

ing fi ve in the U.S. and two in London. The brand also

has locations in Dubai, Hong Kong and Bangkok, and

this spring will open its newest door in Moscow. “Being

able to showcase my product in its own environment has

been so important. It gives me insight into my end con-

sumer, and I love visiting my stores,” the designer said,

adding that opening her fi rst shop in London’s Mayfair

neighborhood six years ago was a milestone.

Another turning point? When she brought in Bonnie

Takhar as president in 2011 to help take the business to

the next level. Together, the duo has been forging ahead

with a carefully crafted strategy, which must continually

evolve amid new competition, fast-changing trends and

global uncertainty.

Takhar, who previously held top posts at Jimmy

Choo and Halston, has witnessed the seismic changes

at retail fi rsthand. And she has noticed some particular

patterns in Charlotte Olympia’s own business.

“Online, we are seeing customers shopping for iconic

styles. They know what they want and what the brand

is known for,” Takhar said. Still, physical stores invite

more impulse buys, especially when shoppers have the

chance to take in the full brand experience, she added.

“So investment in stores remains relevant for us. But

will we ever develop retail at the level that mature

brands have? Probably not.”

or her part, Dellal is well aware that digital is

a critical piece of the business and will only

become more vital. “At the same time, I am old-

fashioned in that I [prefer] things to feel real.

You’re talking to someone who likes handwrit-

ten notes and not just email. There is an online experi-

ence, but nothing beats a real-life experience,” she said.

The designer’s top wholesale partners certainly agree

with that sentiment. Nordstrom has positioned Char-

lotte Olympia in some of its best markets, most recently

adding it to the mix at its Vancouver, B.C., location.

“Charlotte’s collection adds a fun dimension and whim-

sical personality for the woman who doesn’t take herself

too seriously,” said Anne Egan, Nordstrom’s VP and

national merchandise manager of designer shoes. One

example: the Zodiac-inspired Cosmic collection, which

elicited a strong response from Nordstrom consumers.

Besides Dellal’s statement shoes, Egan said the

designer’s endearing personality establishes an immedi-

ate connection with everyone she encounters. “Charlotte

would be the perfect guest at your dinner party,” Egan

noted. “She is interesting, creative, personable, worldly

and fun.”

As Dellal and Takhar continue to cautiously

grow distribution — the brand is 32 percent

penetrated in wholesale channels — the

designer also is broadening her audi-

ence through several buzzy

collaborations.

Last week,

she debuted her

playful new capsule with

Havaianas, which celebrates her roots — her mother,

Andrea Dellal, hails from Brazil. And Dellal explored a

completely diff erent side of her personality when she

teamed with lingerie specialist Agent Provocateur on a

fl irty new line. “From a personal perspective, I’ve always

loved lingerie, and our brands share the same sensibil-

ity of femininity, glamour and playfulness,” said the

designer. In addition, Dellal, who is well known for her

love of old Hollywood and silver-screen sirens, also part-

nered with MAC on a retro-glam makeup line, due out

this spring. “I love the beauty aspect of things — that’s

what got me into fashion.”

Dellal only seems to get more en-

ergized with each new project. Not

surprisingly, she has a sizable list for

expansion, but she wants to

be careful about going too fast.

“It’s not easy to build a brand,

and everyone does it a little dif-

ferently,” she said. “This whole

journey has been a high point for

me, and we’ve done quite a few things.

But I always look forward.”

17C O V E R S T O R Y

F

Charlotte Olympia’s Cosmic Vanina mini clutch box

The Supernova two-part sandalwith star appliquéand crystalembellishments

The StarmanHologram brogue

The BromptonCross boutique

in London

Sofi a Vergarain Charlotte

Olympia at theSAG Awards

A look fromCharlotte Olympia’s capsule with Agent Provocateur

The Miss Universefantasy silver peep-toe slide with rose quartz planet heel

3.1 Phillip Lim re-spun moody ’90s references such ascrushed velvet and chenille.

9

Michael Kors not only showed a stellar collection, but also embraced insta-fashion with three shoe styles for sale immediately after the show.

4

Proenza Schouler came out on top with every manner of chrome-capped-toe boots featuring block heels that were an astute and catchy remix of the ever-classic two-tone.

1

Oscar de la Rentaintroduced a new shape: the demi-platform Marie slingback with a come-hither bejeweled heel.

8

Ralph Laurenwent Edwardian rockstar, pairing dandy suiting and denim with encore-worthy polished brogues and chisel-toe boots.

5

Tory Burch revisited her riding roots with boots worthy of the equestrian set, complete with horseshoe-shaped heels.

7

Alexander Wang rebounded from his stint at Balenciaga with an array of orb-studded boots that were pure cool-kid.

3

Rodarte won points for originality with category- (and knockoff -) defying leather-ruffl ed round-toe numbers.

6

Miu Miu buckled up with delightfully bulbous-heeled loafers done in off beat color combos.

2

NEWSWORTHY SHOES FROM THE FALL ’16 COLLECTIONS

Women’s Top

Fashion Director: Mosha Lundström Halbert

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Opening Ceremony hit upon a top trend: velvet, worn head-to-toe. It was best applied to pointy cutout mules.

Victoria Beckham is standing her ground, from runway winkle- pickers to taking her bow in sneakers.

Tom Browne stuck to stalwart loafers and T-straps to offset all the experimentation.

Zero + Maria Cornejo applied the season’s all-important shearling to loafer uppers for tactile luxe.

Coach continued to stride along a new downtown path with ’70s-inspired gilt booties.

Tibi married the stretch panels of a Chelsea boot with a tall riding shape that oozed chic in fall’s key rich blush hue.

Prabal Gurungsmartly committed to a cropped boot bordered in metallic for a touch of edge.

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Delpozo delighted with sequin oxfords, whittled to a point and raised on a peppy flatform sole.

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Rag & Bone have the answer for winter’s eventual blizzards: sharp speed-laced boots that don’t mind the extreme cold.

18

Jason Wu gave his go-to pumps an on-point update with loafer lines and bows set askew.

12

Monique Lhuillier took a styling risk that paid off, mixing retro ankle-strap sandals with glittering sockettes for a less predictable take on evening dressing.

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FOOTNOTESFrom catwalk collaborations to designer presentations, New York Fashion Week was chock-full of noteworthy shoe moments.

BROTHER VELLIESThe designer (and FN Achievement Award winner) continued to flex her creative muscles, while still keeping production focused in Africa. Footwear categories were expanded to include tall boot shapes, and apparel was made from her material off-cuts. Waste not want not. not.

MANSUR GAVRIELAfter getting off to a shaky start with footwear last season — cofounders Rachel Mansur and Floriana Gavriel were accused of copying by designer Maryam Nassir Zadeh, which they denied — fall was a step in the right direction with an array of midcentury-modern pumps.

JEREMY SCOTTThe iconoclastic designer tag-teamed for his kooky Cowboys and Poodles–themed show. Melissa Shoes provided rubber Western boots (top), while Pollini crafted the wild, wild west versions done in leather (left).

CHLOE GOSSELINAfter scoring a slew of new retailers — from Barneys New York to Level Shoe District and Printemps — the designer was in the mood for love with her confident collection, shown on Valentine’s Day. A dreamy flower-filled interior installation by decor maven Nicole Fuller and live shoe watercolors by artist Regina Yazdi furthered the romance.

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MONSEThe buzzy label by Oscar de la Rentra alums Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia again worked with Mariela Montiel on kicky runway footwear, featuring striping, tinsel and pompom-tassel touches.

KATIE ERMILIOThe über-feminine designer found a worthy pairing in Alexandre Birman’s velvet-and-suede Clarita stilettos, a signature of the Brazilian label.

REBECCA MINKOFFThe designer took a chance on the shoppable-runway concept by re-showing her spring ’16 collection, albeit with timely updates like these strappy block slingbacks.

TOME & MARGAUXThe two labels teamed up to create a capsule of ankle-wrap flats. The pointed-toe ballerinas came in black, claret, white, lapis and zebra and were available straight off the runway on MargauxNY.com.

PAUL ANDREWFor his own collection (above), Andrew referenced the rich spice hues and ornate architectural details of old-world Istanbul. The designer also was busy this season cooking up collaborative footwear for a host of names. At left: Shimmering courts for Rosie Assoulin and bewitching pumps for Jonathan Simkhai. And at right: Corduroy mules for Tanya Taylor.

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FOR ADVERTISING INFORMATION, PLEASE CONTACT LAUREN SCHOR, ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER AT 212 256 8118 OR LSCHOR@FOOTWEARNEWS.COM

THE P OWER OF CONTENT

It’s all in the making.

AMERICAM A D E I N

ISSUE March 21 / CLOSE March 9

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Azzedine Alaïa debuted his iconic perforation pattern in 1992. 23

Alaïa’s decidedly feminine footwear collection took a sporty turn in spring ’16 with

the brand’s first pair of sneakers. Featuring a laser-cut upper decorated with the designer’s signature eyelet motif, the casual laceups will soon appear in new variations for fall.

S H O EO F T H EW E E K

MARKETPLACE

A Cut Above

here’s a glam rock vibe to some of my more spectacular models, and also an all-around sense of pop mischief,” said Pierre Hardy of his fall ’16 collection. Among his diverse infl uences are New Wave touches from the 1970s, which inspired his sexy sandals. And the designer also

incorporated Art Deco vibes reimagined with a ’70s spirit to create wing motifs and metal trim touches on key looks for the season. In addition, laced boots with bold rubber and leather soles were a throwback to the 1980s Buff alo fashion movement. Overall, Hardy was passionate about creating unexpected combinations on the shoes. “It’s about the mix of diff erent, sometimes opposite, materials that create a new feeling — matte and shiny silver snake or a rainbow-colored suede,” he said. “Otherwise, it’s about playing with optical illusions, as seen in the mirrored metal face on the graphic new Illusion heel, which is rounded at the back and triangular at the front.”

Pierre HardyThe designer is rocking out for the season, thanks to diverse inspirations including New Wave punk. By Kristen Henning

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Icons of the ’70smusic scene

INSPIRATION POINT

Hardy incorporated his new Illusion heel on several styles in the collection, including ankle-strap sandals and this striped snakeskin bootie.

M A R K E T P L A C E24 WOMEN’S

A modern interpretaion ofthe Buff alo look

Hardy said Saint-Germain and the French elegance of Paris in the 1960s inspired his Belle shoe series.

The punkrock vibe

Pierre Hardy

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he Dune Group is continuing to expand on this side of the pond. The U.K.-based

company — which opened its first U.S. store in 2014 in New York’s Soho neighborhood — recently launched a second shop, at Roosevelt Field Mall in New York. A third stateside door is expected to debut at the Westfield Trade Center in Manhattan this spring.

At the same time, Daniel Rubin, founder and executive chairman of Dune Group, said the company continues to fine-tune its Dune London and Dune Black men’s and women’s product for American consumers. “We are learning more about the customer, understanding what they like and what [product] aspects we should change. It’s an exciting period for us,” said Rubin. “A big focus for us is getting that right. If we do, we will continue to expand to other cities in the U.S.”

Rubin pointed out that there are a few differences between the U.S. and Dune’s home market in the U.K., including the importance of a more-focused selection.

“There are a lot of offerings of pumps in the U.S., so it’s all about a point of difference and being brave. There is also a trend toward casual and the sports theme,” he said. “It’s a huge market with a lot of compe-tition, so we are going to continue to develop the product, and our key initiative is about newness.”

Outside the U.S., the company is also expanding. Four stores will open in Switzerland this year, with additional locations slated for India and South America. The brand is now in 30 countries. “International and e-commerce have been our two key growth areas,” said Rubin.

The executive added that grow-ing Dune’s wholesale accounts is another key focus. Currently, wholesale makes up only 10 per-cent of revenue.

“There is a big opportunity to build that business. We are still a youngish company, and we’re look-ing for good growth,” said Rubin. “There are a lot of challenges, but we’re pretty optimistic about 2016 and improving our performance in the States by putting what we’ve learned so far into practice.”

Dune London looks to make a bigger splash in the U.S., with new stateside stores.

By Kristen Henning

Shore Thing

T

A lookbook shot from the brand

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26 WOMEN’SM A R K E T P L A C E

THEY ARE

WEARING

Brave It In Boots

Subzero temperatures, torrential rain and

even snow flurries were no match for the well-coiffed of New York Fashion Week. They were undaunted in statement-making styles such as Gucci horse-bit boots, chunky Sorel platforms and even newcomer L’F Shoes’ glitter-and-fur laceups.

Photographed by

Hannan Saleh

On the NYFW runways, designers rebooted classic winter silhouettes with über-luxe materials.

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Cornejo’s daughter, Bibi Cornejo Borthwick, and husband, Mark Borthwick, are both photographers.28 M A R K E T P L A C E WOMEN’S

New York–based designer Maria Cornejo has strict criteria for her shoes. “They have to feel as good as Birkenstocks. Otherwise I don’t want to wear them.” Apparently she is not alone. The Chilean-born, British-educated founder of the Zero + Maria Cornejo label recently expanded her formerly tight footwear off ering to a full-scale collection, which is carried at her own stores and Barneys New York, among others. “I’m glad that people have caught on that comfort doesn’t have to be ugly. It’s no longer a bad word,” Cornejo said about her assortment of architectural low heels and supportive fl ats. “We carry so much weight on our feet every day while standing. You have to have styles that are well balanced and ergonomically correct. Most female designers are very aware, because they have to wear the shoes and enjoy them,” said Cornejo, who admitted she would go to the ends of the earth in pursuit of worthy footwear. “One season, our shoes were not going to arrive in time so I sent someone to Italy to pick them up and bring them to New York.” Here are a few more things she is equally passionate about.

Maria CornejoThe fashion designer favored by Michelle Obama reveals her favorite habits and hobbies.

By Mosha Lundström Halbert

GOOD TASTE

FAVORITE HOBBY:

“I started knitting when I was 7 years old and it relaxes me. I’m making my husband an alpaca scarf right now. It’s more about the act of zoning out than being creative.”

BEST STRESS-BUSTER:

“I swear by tidying. After working weekends getting ready for the show, my house is a catastrophe. It’s very therapeutic to put your life in order after everything has been chaotic.”

GO-TO WALKING SHOE:

“My Flo flats or low-heeled boots.”

HEALTHIEST HABIT:

“I walk often from Brooklyn to my office on Bleecker Street. It takes me an hour.”

POST-RUNWAY

SHOW RITUAL:

“I sleep in till 8 a.m., go for a massage, mani-pedi, have tea in bed and check out the reviews online.”

SCENT THERAPY:

“Anything by Byredo. Their scents are all gorgeous.”

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JENNIFER MEYERAs the jewelry designer celebrates a new collaboration with Superga, she shares the secrets of her footwear closet.

By Kristen Henning

TOTAL PAIRS: “A lot. I’m not a crazy shoe buyer, but I love the shoes that I love. I buy them and wear them until they are beat out. I think to fi nd a good pair of shoes that you’re happy and comfortable in is the ultimate.”

BRAND MIX: “I love Saint Laurent. I love Isabel Marant. I love Tabitha Simmons and Superga. And Ancient Greek sandals and Birkenstocks for the summer. I buy a variety.”

FIRST DESIGNER PURCHASE: “Prada platforms. They were tan with red fl owers all over them. I still think about them.”

MOST DARING SHOES: “Probably a pair of knee-high boots. They are Brian Atwood and quite beautiful. I always feel a little short for them, but I love them.”

BEST TO WEAR WITH A STATEMENT NECKLACE: “I wear a lot of gold jewelry, so I’m partial to a gold heel. I have gold shoes from Bottega Veneta, and they are the pretti-est heels I’ve ever seen.”

LAST PAIR PURCHASED: “A pair of Saint Laurent booties with stars on them.”

GO-TO SNEAKER BRAND: “Superga. Before launching my collaboration with them this month, I had four pairs of Supergas — now there are another 14 pairs I’ve added to my collec-tion. I had to get one of each style [from the collaboration]. My kids also had to get some — it’s a whole family thing now.”

CLOSET ORGANIZATION STRATEGY: “My shoes are organized, and then my kids get

into my closet and the shoes go every-where. I keep boots in

one place, heels in another, san-dals in another and sneakers elsewhere.

I try to keep it separated.”

I’LL NEVER GET RID OF: “A pair of Adidas sneakers that I’ve had since high school. I’ve also had two pairs of combat boots since the 9th grade that I still wear. And my Supergas, some of them have holes in them.”

LOOK OF CHOICE FOR MY WEDDING

TO TOBEY MAGUIRE: “Barefoot.”

CELEBRITY CLOSET I’D LIKE TO RAID: “Jennifer Aniston has some great shoes. I’d like to go raid her closet.”

BEST RED-CARPET SHOES: “It all depends on the dress and the color. I have to be honest — you have to fi nd comfortable shoes. That’s a constant task. With red carpets, the No. 1 priority is that you can walk in them for at least a couple of hours. My go-to is Saint Laurent. My other trick is keeping two Advil in my purse.”

CLOSET CASE

A women’sstyle fromthe collab

A mommy-and-melook from the Jennifer

Meyer xo Superga collection

OCOTILLO SCUFF & CAROL MOC

LAMOFOOTWEAR.COMAtlanta Shoe Market : 829-831

FALL TREND

Slippers are having a gray moment as classic clogs and shearling scuff s warm to shades of ash, slate and charcoal.

HotIron Chinese Laundry’s cable-knit

scuff with faux-fur collar

Patricia Green’s gray fl annel style with cozy collar

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Bootie with pompom trim from Muk Luks

Lamo’s suede moc with soft shearling cuff

Foamtreads’ suede-and-knit low-cut bootie

Cable-knit scuff with fl ower trim from Hafl inger

Atlanta Shoe Market 829-831 @oomphies

A game-changing business decision:I took over [as CEO of] SG Cos. in 1985, and it was very apparent to me that we had to become an importer. We just couldn’t compete with China. So we started making some slippers overseas while still maintaining our domestic manufacturing. We wouldn’t still be in business today if we hadn’t made that transition. In addition to slippers, the company now has a very

successful apparel business, an outdoor footwear division and a pajama-and-bathrobe business. I steered all that expansion and diversification. You can’t have all your eggs in one basket.

The licenses that got away:Disney’s “Little Mermaid” — we were told we would have it, and then the following day it was given to someone

else. The other one was “Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles.” We passed on it twice, which we regret now.

Toughest day on the job:The day we closed down our U.S. factory, in 2002. It was a gut-wrenching process that took a year out of my life — literally, and who knows how much figuratively. It was a very sad day. We hired therapists for the workers, and the ones who needed it the most were me and my COO. We couldn’t stop crying. We kept apologizing to the staff, and they kept telling us how grateful they were to have been employed there all those years.

The industry’s biggest challenges:Obviously, sourcing is the big one. Also, compliance issues and testing are becoming more stringent. And while I agree with some of it, I think our elected officials tend to overswing in that area. Then you have the drastic change in consumer shopping habits and omnichannel. It’s not a new trend, but it’s growing and growing. You have to continually come up with new ways to sell your product.

Personal mentors:An important one was Charlie Gollup, who ran this company from 1945 to 1976. When I took over, he never interfered. He said, “I’ll just serve as your historian,” and he gave me some wonderful advice to have fun, do it with vigor and be yourself. I also had an uncle, Abe, who would take me to the stock market when I was a young boy. He introduced me to that whole exciting world.

Other shoe companies I admire:As someone in a somewhat similar business, I really respect Bobby Campbell and what he’s done with BBC International. I’ve known Bobby for a long time — we actually made some slippers for him about 35 years ago — and he’s incredibly good at what he does.

Planning for the next generation:We’ve begun the process of looking for my successor. We are working with an executive search firm and have a candidate whom we are very close to engaging for a three- to six-month test period. I’ve agreed to stay on as chairman and will continue to be involved to the extent that the new leader would like me to be. I’m there to offer guidance, but I don’t want to overshadow the new person. IL

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Leifer joined SG Cos. in 1981 after a 20-year career in the banking world.32 M A R K E T P L A C E S LIPPERS

STRAIGHT SHOOTERThree important aspects of SG’s longtime leader.

1 MY LEADERSHIP STYLE:

“I am a very honest and open guy — you know exactly where you stand with me. I’m not a good poker player.”

2 FAVORITE BUSINESS BOOKS:

“‘Winning,’ by Jack Welch. He is one of the great lead-ers — someone with vision, courage and integrity. You can learn a lot from him. Another favorite is ‘Execution: The Discipline of Get-ting Things Done,’ by Larry Bossidy and Ram Charan.”

3MORNING RITUAL:

“I’m up at 5 a.m. every day, and for the first hour or so, I read all the news about what’s going on in the world. Al-most anything that happens in the world impacts our busi-ness in some way.”

The SG Cos. CEO sounds off on three-plus decades of change and expansion, and lessons learned along the way.By Erin E. Clack

Bernie LeiferLEADER BOARD

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AVERY SCHMEISSERThe director of Acorn talks about the evolution of the iconic slipper brand.

By Barbara Schneider-Levy

1Since slippers are considered a seasonal item, how does Acorn encourage year-round sales?We don’t look at ourselves so much as a slipper company but as an après-everything brand. Consumers today look for a comfort-able reward to their active lives. After hiking or a long day at work, they can relax in [something] comfortable. They can take off their boots and put on our slipper socks. Or

after a long walk, they can run a bath and step into a pair of our spa thongs. We make [styles] for indoors and out.

2Who is today’s slipper consumer?It’s about a mind-set — those who are adventurers at heart. While there’s a fashion aesthetic to Acorn, our comfort and durabil-ity [factors] set us apart, so we’re not in style one season and out the other. While we have a strong consumer base over 35, we’re seeing college kids picking up the slipper socks. It’s similar to Birkenstock — a brand that’s been around forever and is now getting [noticed] by kids. The current heritage move-ment has [been benefi cial], since Acorn has been around 40 years.

3What are you doing to connect with those younger consumers?We take the same approach as a small, entrepreneurial startup. We appreci-ate the importance of word-of-mouth,

with people talking about and advocating for our product. We’re also aligning ourselves with like-minded Maine brands such as the nonprofi t Maine Huts & Trails and Apogee Adventures, a [teen adventure travel group]. We’re building our brand ambassador pro-gram with Maine Huts & Trails’ leaders, who are millennials. And we’re starting talks with the nonprofi t Maine Brewers’ Guild and some Maine-based beer companies.

4Where does the brand turn for design inspiration?We subscribe to trend services, travel often and shop retail stores. Since the slipper category isn’t as fl amboyant or sexy as couture eveningwear, we look for inspiration in everyday places as much as the Paris runways. For example, I fi nd the grocery an interesting place, with its displays of fruits and vegetables that show color pairings in new ways. For instance, the black and

dark-green shades of an avocado were inspiration for the tones in our Alpine Ragg Wool style from the fall ’16 Original

Slipper Sock collection.

5 What is Acorn doing to mark its 40th anniversary this year?The Original Slipper Sock was the start of our company, worn [camp side] or on the cold wood fl oors of a Maine cabin. It’s been one of our best sellers. We’re [now] taking the iconic silhouette and blowing it out with a short ver-sion, named after the founder’s faithful dog, Shorty. We’re also extending it into a slouch boot with an indoor-outdoor sole. And we’re bringing some production to Dexter, Maine, for a made-in-America version.

5 QUESTIONS Acorn’s iconicSlipper Sock

The Novellastyle for fall ’16

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Footwear News 2016 Editorial Calendar

ISSUE DATE SPACE CLOSE EDITORIAL FEATURE

MARCH

3/7 2/24 Vans Milestone, Athletic

3/14 3/2 Must Buys Fall, Paris Runway Coverage Distribution: Children’s Club of NY

3/21 3/9 Made In America, Mens

3/28 3/16 Comfort

APRIL

4/4 3/21 Athletic, Los Angeles Times Distribution

4/11 3/30 Work Boot, Occupational Footwear, Outdoor, Material & Components

4/25 4/13 Synclaire Brands Milestone Women’s Fashion, Legwear

MAY

5/2 4/20 Under Armour Milestone, Best of Running

5/9 4/27 Made In Spain

5/16 5/4 Editorial Feature TBD

5/30 5/18 Pre–FFANY Show Distribution: FFANY

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FN IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING, LLC. COPYRIGHT ©2016 FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 72, NO. 7. February 22, 2016. FN (ISSN 0162-914X) is published weekly (except for the first week in July, second week in December, third week in January and April, fourth week in May, September and December, fifth week in February, August and October) by Fairchild Publishing, LLC, which is a division of Penske Business Media, LLC. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 475 Fifth Ave, New York, NY 10017. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO FOOTWEAR NEWS, P.O. Box 6357, Harlan, IA, 51593. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to FOOTWEAR NEWS, P.O. Box 6357, Harlan, IA, 51593, call 866-963-7335, or e-mail customer service at footwearnews@cdsfulfillment.com. Please include both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. For New York Hand Delivery Service address changes or inquiries, please contact Mitchell’s NY at 1-800-662-2275, option 7. One-year subscription price: U.S. $72, Canadian $149, foreign $295. Single-copy cost $10. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliver-able, you are ever dissatisfied with your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of a new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. We reserve the right to change the number of issues contained in a sub-scription term and/or the way the product is delivered. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to FOOTWEAR NEWS, 475 5th Ave, 2nd Fl., New York, NY 10017. For permissions and editorial requests, e-mail licensing@pmc.com. Visit us online at www.footwearnews.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild Publishing, LLC magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.wwd.com/subscriptions. FOOTWEAR NEWS IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITE ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY FOOTWEAR NEWS IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS , PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE.

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PickA Lively Affair Michael Kors gathered one of the buzziest front rows at New York Fashion Week this go-around with Bond girl Naomie Harris, actress Riley Keough and notorious shoe-lover Blake Lively, there with her mother, Elaine. Lively stole the show in a nude slip dress from Kors’ “transeason” 2016 collection and paired the look with Christian Louboutin pumps. Never one to miss a shoe-shopping opportunity, Lively was spotted at the Louboutin Meatpacking District store later that day.

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ISSUE April 11 / CLOSE March 30

Play Hard. Work Harder.

WORK BOOT