Why Go? Paris may be the city of love, but Auckland is the city of many lovers, according to its Maori name, Tamaki Makau-rau. Those lovers so desired this place that they fought over it for centuries.

It’s hard to imagine a more geographically blessed city. Its two harbours frame a narrow isthmus punctuated by vol-canic cones and surrounded by fertile farmland. From any of its numerous vantage points you’ll be astounded by how close the Tasman Sea and Pacifi c Ocean come to kissing and forming a new island.

As a result, water’s never far away – whether it’s the rug-gedly beautiful west-coast surf beaches or the glistening Hauraki Gulf with its myriad islands. And within an hour’s drive from the high-rise heart of the city there are dense tracts of rainforest, thermal springs, wineries and wildlife reserves. No wonder Auckland’s rated as off ering the third- best quality of life of any major city.

When to Go Auckland has a mild climate, with the occasional frost in winter and high humidity in summer. Summer months have an average of eight days of rain, but the weather is famously fi ckle, with ‘four seasons in one day’ possible at any time of the year. If you’re after a big-city buzz, don’t come between Christmas and New Year, when Aucklanders desert the city for the beach en masse. The sights remain open but many cafes and restaurants close, some not surfacing again until well into January.

Auckland POPULATION: 1.4 MILLION

Auckland ........................ 62Sights ............................. 62Activities ......................... 75Tours ............................... 79Festivals & Events ..........80Sleeping.......................... 82Eating ............................. 88Drinking .......................... 92Entertainment ................ 94Shopping ........................ 96Hauraki Gulf Islands ......100West Auckland ............... 113North Auckland ............. 118Goat Island Marine Reserve ..........................123

Best Places to Eat » Grove (p 88 ) » La Cigale market (p 91 ) » Depot (p 88 ) » Clooney (p 89 ) » MooChowChow (p 89 )

Best Places to Stay » Hotel de Brett (p 83 ) » Auckland Takapuna Oaks

(p 87 ) » Verandahs (p 84 ) » 23 Hepburn (p 84 ) » Waldorf Celestion (p 83 )

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

61AUCKLAN

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Barrier IslandsTo Great & Little

HarbourManukau

S E A

HarbourMahurangi

BayLong

HarbourWaitemata

HarbourKaipara

Hauraki Gulf

Tamaki Strait

T A S M A N

River

Wai

kato

BeachMuriwai

Matakana

AUCKLAND

Port Albert

Orere

Matingarahi

Hunua

Kawakawa BayWhitford

Sandspit

Leigh

Pakiri

Clevedon

Maraetai

Paparimu

Kaiaua

Maramarua

MirandaMangatangi

PukekohePatumahoe Bombay

Tuakau

Glenbrook

Pokeno

Mercer

Drury

Whatipu

HelensvilleParakai

Woodhill

Waimauku

Huia

WaitakereSwanson

KumeuHuapai

Awhitu

Riverhead

Wellsford

Titirangi

Grahams Beach

Warkworth

Te Hana

Puhoi

Waiwera

Orewa

(Bethells Beach)Te Henga

Papakura

ParkRegionalRanges

Waitakere

Regional ParkShakespear

Forest ParkMangatawhiri

Regional ParkHunua Ranges

ForestWoodhill

IslandTiritiri Matangi

Motuora Island

IslandMotuihe

IslandMotutapu

IslandRangitoto

IslandPonui

Rotoroa IslandPakatoa Island

Kawau Island

Cape Colville

AerodromeNorth Shore

AirfieldMercer

BeachAnawhata

Omaha Beach

ParkRegional

Mahurangi

Regional ParkTawharanui

Regional ParkScandrett

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122

16

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Marine ReserveGoat Island

IslandWaiheke

GulfHauraki

Springs ParkWestern

Ponsonby

Museum

Volcanic Field

Piha

Karekare

0 20 km0 12 miles

�1 Going with the fl ows, exploring Auckland’s fascinating volcanic fi eld (p 71 )

�2 Getting back to nature on the island sanctuaries of the beautiful Hauraki Gulf (p 100 )

�3 Being awed by the Maori taonga (treasures) of the Auckland Museum (p 67 )

�4 Going west to the mystical and treacherous black sands of Karekare and Piha (p 115 )

�5 Swimming with the fi shes at Goat Island Marine Reserve (p 123 )

�6 Schlepping around world-class wineries and beaches on Waiheke Island (p 103 )

�7 Buzzing around the cafes, restaurants and bars of Ponsonby (p 89 )

�8 Soaking up the Polynesian vibe at the Pasifi ka Festival (p 81 ), held in March at Western Springs Park

Auckland Highlights