The Big Apple casts a large shadow, and Philadelphia and New Jersey can suffer identity crises because of it. Despite once being the more important American city, Philly now plays second fiddle while New York calls the tune. And Jersey remains, as Ben Franklin once noted, a “barrel tapped at both ends”: in north Jersey, residents lis-ten to WPLJ and root for the Yankees and the Giants; in south Jersey, they listen to WMMR and root for the Phillies and the Eagles.

Yet, these states have a lot to offer on their own terms, as these trips show. Jersey will always have its fabulous shore, as well as its quirky diners and famous musical sons and daughters. Jersey also has the overlooked Pine Barrens, a vast, vital wilderness in the midst of this huge urban corridor. Walkable, historic Philadelphia is one of the friendliest cities you’ll ever meet, and it’s coming into its own as a restaurant town. Relaxing getaways in Pennsylvania include artsy New Hope and Lambertville on the Delaware River and the radically antimodern charms of Dutch Country. What’s the biggest surprise? Pittsburgh, that once-dirty steel-town, is now a beautiful, avant-garde delight. Really, go check it out for yourself.

NEW JERSEY & PENNSYLVANIA’S BEST TRIPSBEST TRIPS

TRIP

23 Slow Food & Sloe Gin in Philly p183 31 Warhola Without the A p225

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NEW JERSEY & PENNSYLVANIA TRIPS

For classic rock, tune to WPLJ (95.5FM) and

WMMR (93.3FM). The public radio station WXPN (88.5FM) broadcasts from UPenn. For more music, see the Jersey Rocks trip playlist.

· “Sherry,” Frankie Valli

· “One O’clock Jump,” Count Basie

· “Wee Willie,” The Hooligans

· “All of Me,” Sarah Vaughan

· “4th of July, Asbury Park (Sandy),” Bruce Springsteen

· “Jersey Girl,” Tom Waits

· “Philadelphia Freedom,” Elton John

· “That’s Life,” Frank Sinatra

PLAYLIST

© Lonely Planet Publications

23 Slow Food & Sloe Gin in Philly opposite 28 Cape May: Seaside Idyll p213

27 Down by the Boardwalk p205 29 Bogs, Barrens & the Jersey Devil p217

24 Impressions of the Delaware River p189 26 Jersey Rocks p199 30 Dutch Country Timewarp p221 31 Warhola Without the A p225

25 OPEN 24 HRS p193

NEW JERSEY & PENNSYLVANIA TRIPS

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OCEANATLANTIC

DelawareBay

Virginia

New York

Pennsylvania

New

Delaware

Maryland

Jersey

West Virginia

CityOcean

City

City

Newburgh

NewYork

Jersey

Binghamton

Stroudsburg

Elmira

Syracuse

Scranton

UticaHamilton

Buffalo

Erie

Youngstown

Jamestown

NiagaraFalls

Corning

Rochester

Williamsport

Camden

Reading

Wilmington

DOVER

York

Baltimore

Frederick

ANNAPOLIS

Easton

Allentown

Philadelphia

Lancaster

Fredericksburg

Altoona

Cumberland

Pittsburgh

Frostburg

Staunton

Harrisonburg

HARRISBURG

Arlington

Culpeper

WASHINGTON DC

Easton

Atlantic

WildwoodCape May

Newark

TRENTON

New Brunswick

Schenectady

NewPaltz

Washington

Bridgeport

Morgantown

Preserve

AlleghenyNationalForest

ShenandoahNational Park

MonongahelaNational Forest

CatskillForest

Allegh

eny

Mou

ntai

ns

LakeOneida

Lake Erie

AssateagueIsland

CANADA

2625

31

30

29

28

2724

23

95

79

80

80

95

66

70

68

76

79

70

68

7670

70

78

78

8183

76

78

81

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78

8484

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78

90

270

180380

390

490

0

0 60 km

40 mi