AMAZING ROAD TRIPS34

BEST TRIPSIRELAND’S

This edition written and researched by

Fionn Davenport, Belinda DixonCatherine Le Nevez, Oda O’Carroll

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

MAP LEGEND

SYMBOLS IN THIS BOOK

% Telephone Number

h Opening Hours

p Parking

n Nonsmoking

a Air-Conditioning

i Internet Access

W Wi-Fi Access

v Vegetarian Selection

s Swimming Pool

E English-Language Menu

c Family-Friendly

# Pet-Friendly

Tips from Locals

Top Tips

Link Your Trips

Trip Detour

5 Eating

Family

History & Culture

Food & Drink

Outdoors

Essential Photo

Walking Tour

4 Sleeping

PLAN YOUR TRIP

Welcome to Ireland.......................... 7

Ireland Classic Trips........................ 8

Ireland Highlights............................12

If You Like....................................... 22

Need to Know...................................24

City Guide........................................ 26

Ireland by Region........................... 32

ON THE ROAD

DUBLIN & EASTERN IRELAND............................35

1 Ireland’s Highlights................7 Days 39

2 The Long Way Round.....................14 Days 55

3 A Week Around Dublin.......................3 Days 69

4 East to West.........................7 Days 77

5 The Boyne Valley...........2 Days 85

6 Ancient Ireland.....................4 Days 93

7 Monasteries, Mountains & Mansions.............3 Days 101

8 Wicklow Mountains...............3 Days 109

Walk Track/Path

River/CreekIntermittent RiverSwamp/MangroveCanalWaterDry/Salt/Intermittent LakeGlacier

BeachCemetery(Christian)Cemetery (Other)ParkForest

Sportsground

International

Cliff

Capital (National)Capital(State/Province)City/Large TownTown/Village

State/Province

StepsPlaza/Mall

PedestrianOverpass

Tunnel

Walk RouteLinked TripTrip DetourTrip Route

Airport

UndergroundTrain Station

Train/Railway

Cable Car/Funicular

Transport

US Interstate Hwy US National Hwy

California State Hwy

ReservationUrban Area

Trip Stop

Tram

Trip Numbers

2

#9

Walking tour

Trip Detour

Hydrography

Areas

Boundaries

Population

Routes

Highway Route Markers

[Ù97

VUÓ5dk44

Trips

Parking

1

LaneTertiary

TollwayFreewayPrimarySecondary

Unsealed Road

place-holdermap

Walk Track/Path

River/CreekIntermittent RiverSwamp/MangroveCanalWaterDry/Salt/Intermittent LakeGlacier

BeachCemetery(Christian)Cemetery (Other)ParkForest

Sportsground

International

Cliff

Capital (National)Capital(State/Province)City/Large TownTown/Village

State/Province

StepsPlaza/Mall

PedestrianOverpass

Tunnel

Walk RouteLinked TripTrip DetourTrip Route

Airport

UndergroundTrain Station

Train/Railway

Cable Car/Funicular

TransportUrban Area

Trip Stop

Tram

Trip Numbers

2

#9

Walking Tour

Trip Detour

Hydrography

Areas

Boundaries

Population

Routes

Route Markers

Trips

Parking

1

LaneTertiary

TollwayFreewayPrimarySecondary

Unsealed Road

Wall

E-Road NetworkNational Network

E44

M100

CONTENTSCONTENTS

9 Carlow Back Roads.............3 Days 117

a Kilkenny’s Treasures................3 Days 125

b Wexford & Waterford................5 Days 135

c Blackwater Valley Drive.............2 Days 143

d Family Fun...........................3 Days 151

CORK & SOUTHWEST IRELAND..........................159

e Ring of Kerry........................4 Days 163

f Dingle Peninsula........... 3–4 Days 175

g Southwest Blitz..........................4 Days 185

h Southwestern Pantry......................5 Days 199

i West Cork Villages...................7 Days 207

j Shannon River Route.............4 Days 215

Cork &Southwest

Irelandp159

Galway &the West of

Irelandp231

Belfast &the North of

Irelandp299

Dublin &Eastern Ireland

p35

3

Contents cont.

k The Holy Glen............ 2–3 Days 223

GALWAY & THE WEST OF IRELAND..........................231

l Best of the West..................6 Days 235

m Musical Landscapes.............5 Days 247

n Mountains & Moors...................6 Days 257

o Loughs of the West............. 3–4 Days 267

p North Mayo & Sligo.....................4 Days 275

q Sligo Surrounds................5 Days 283

r County Clare........................7 Days 291

BELFAST & THE NORTH OF IRELAND..........................299

s Tip to Toe.........................10 Days 303

t The North in a Nutshell..........10 Days 317

u Delights of Donegal...................7 Days 331

v Inishowen Peninsula................3 Days 339

w Northwest on Adrenalin.................4 Days 347

x From Bangor to Derry....................4 Days 355

y The Antrim Coast...........3 Days 365

ROAD TRIP ESSENTIALS

Ireland Driving Guide....................373

Ireland Travel Guide......................378

Language....................................... 386

Index.............................................. 392

4

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The Long Way Round

14 DAYS 1300KM / 807 MILES

GREAT FOR

HBJ

BEST TIME TO GO You’ll have the best

weather (and crowds)

in June and August, but

September is ideal.

I ESSENTIAL PHOTO

Killyhoey Beach from

the top of Horn Head.

K BEST TWO DAYS

Stops 7 to 9 allow you

to experience the very

best of the wild west,

including a day trip to

the Aran Islands.

Dublin Full to the brim with art,

literature, music and nightlife

2 Why go in a straight line when you can perambulate at leisure?

This trip explores Ireland’s jagged, scenic and spectacular

edges; a captivating loop that takes in the whole island.

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Dublin

Belfast

WestportPhotogenic Georgian

town with a musical

reputation

600 km

InishmórWind-lashed, cliff-protected World

Heritage island

740 km

ArdmoreSecluded seaside

village with ancient Christian ruins

1300 km

Giant’s CausewayOne of the natural

wonders of the world

244 km

TRIP HIGHLIGHTS

55

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KILDARE

KILKENNY

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NorthSound

A T L A N T I CO C E A N

FergusBay

LoughCorrib

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Cobh

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Clonakilty

Durrow

Kilrush

Fethard

Abbeyleix

Portumna

LismoreDingle

Bunratty

Doolin Kilfenora

Kilbeggan

Roscrea

Tarbert

Dungarvan

Maynooth

Kilkee

Roundstone

Castletownshend

Baltimore

Ardmore

Schull

KilmoreQuay

Sneem

Caherdaniel

Portmagee

Kells

Castlemaine

Oughterard

Annascaul

Cahir

Dalkey

Adare

Athenry

Tramore

MiltownMalbay

Caherciveen

Newbridge

Ferns

Waterville

Gort

Loughrea

Ballybunion

Kildare

Kells

Corofin

Malahide

Listowel

Kenmare

Athlone

Ennis

Nenagh

Ballinasloe

Bantry

Carlow

Youghal

Tullamore

Glengarriff

RosslareHarbour

Dungarvan

Clonmel

Enniscorthy

Howth

Tipperary

Tralee

NewRoss

Wicklow

Clifden

Mallow

Birr

Cork

Galway

Cashel

Limerick

Wexford

Killarney

Kilkenny

Waterford

DUBLIN

BurrenVillage

KillarneyNational

Park

ConnemaraNationalPark

Gougane BarraForest Park

050 km

0 25 miles#e

1 Ireland’s Highlights The best of Ireland’s five-star

cultural and natural attractions. 7 DAYS

14 Ring of KerryPass jaw-dropping scenery as

you circumnavigate the Iveragh

Peninsula. 4 DAYS

16 Southwest BlitzThe best of the southwest

coast, countryside and cosmopolitan city life. 4 DAYS

22 Musical LandscapesA ride round County Clare’s

hottest trad music spots. 5 DAYS

28 Tip to ToeThe ultimate pan-Irish experience. 10 DAYS

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SligoBay

NorthChannel

StrangfordLough

IrishSea

LowerLoughErne

LoughRee

LoughNeagh

Carndonagh

Clones

Carrick-on-Shannon

Kells

Newport

Falcarragh

Killyleagh

Ballyliffin

Claddaghduff

Dunfanaghy

Burtonport

Gortahork

Glenties

Strokestown

TaraTrim

Ardara

Dungloe

DunlewyLimavady

Kells

BangorErris

Ballycastle

Leenane

KnockSlane

BoyleCarrickmacross

Cavan

Maghery

Ballycastle

Greencastle

Bruckless

Navan

Antrim

Newtownards

Coleraine

Newcastle

Roscommon

Holywood

Westport

Letterkenny

Portstewart

Ballymena

Ballina

Mullingar

Lisburn

Larne

Castlebar

Carrickfergus

Omagh

Bundoran

Strabane

Donegal

DLondonderry

erry/

Craigavon

Buncrana

Portadown

Sligo

ArmaghDownpatrick

Newry

Lurgan

MonaghanEnniskillen

Banbridge

Dundalk

Drogheda

Bangor

BELFASTGlencolumbcille

KilbroneyForest Park

KillykeenForest Park

CastlewellanForest Park

Lough NavarForest Park

Dún an RíForest Park

CastleCaldwell

Forest Park

CuilcaghMountain

Park

Gortin GlenForest Park

BallycroyNationalPark

GlenariffForest Park

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2 The Long Way RoundIreland’s crenellated coastlines,

vibrant port cities and island

treasures. 14 DAYS

21 Best of the WestThe ultimate tour of Ireland’s

best westerly sights. 6 DAYS

29 The North in a NutshellBig cities, big-name sights,

hidden beaches, tiny islands –

an epic drive. 10 DAYS

11

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IRELAND

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1 Ireland’s Highlights Brave the elements to get to Skellig Michael, the Unesco World Heritage Site and largest of the Skellig Islands

g Southwest Blitz Plant a kiss on the famous Blarney Stone at the 15th-century Blarney Castle

t The North in a Nutshell Queen’s Quay big sh scultpure in Belfast

What is a Classic Trip? All the trips in this book show you the best of Ireland, but we’ve chosen eight as our all-time favourites. These are our Classic Trips – the ones that lead you to the best of the iconic sights, the top activities and the unique Irish experiences. Turn the page to see the map, and look out for the Classic Trip stamp throughout the book.

IRELAND

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KERRYBeen Hill(668m)

Mt Baurtregaum(850m)

Knockboy(706m)

Mt Gabriel(407m)

Barraboy Mtn(412m)

Knocknagorraveela(507m)

Carrantuohil(1039m)

Knockgour(481m) Mt Seefin

(491m)

Knocknadobar(688m)

Coomacarrea(772m)

Mt Carrauntoonhill(1040m)

Sheep'sHead

AnnaghBog

BolusHead

DoulusHead

DinglePeninsula

InchPoint

IveraghPeninsula

Sheep's HeadPeninsula

Mizen HeadPeninsula

Slieve MishMountains

Lamb'sHead

CahaMountains

Slieve MiskishMountains

DerrynasaggartMountains

ShehyMountains

DurseyHead

BearaPeninsula

Macgillycuddy'sReeks

Cod'sHead

CoulaghBay

DerrynaneBay

DunmanusBay

CastlemaineHarbour

KenmareRiver

Kells Bay

BantryBay

RossbeighStrand

BallinskelligsBay

DingleBay

LoughLeane

DerianaLough

GouganeBarraLake

LoughCurrane

Lough Caragh

LoughAllua

KillarneyNationalPark

RiverInn

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Illen

Ri

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Glencar

Aughacasla

Moll'sGap

Darreenafoyle

Kilgarvan

Castlecove

Millstreet

Castleisland

Lauragh

InchFarranfore

Rathmore

Lispole

Parknasilla

Dingle

Knightstown

Ballydavid Ballydesmond

Waterville

Lougher

Adrigole

AhakistaKilcrohane

Tuosist

Castletownbere

Ardgroom

RosscarberyLeap

SkibbereenBallydehob

Camp

Durrus

Drimoleague

DunmanwayKealkill

BallylickeyEyeries

Allihies

Tahilla

Sneem

Derrynane

Ballinskelligs

Kells

Glenbeigh

CastlemaineAnnascaul

Cloghane

Glengarriff

Killorglin

Killarney

Kenmare

Caherdaniel

Caherciveen

Bantry

Gougane BarraForest Park

Glanteenassig ForestRecreation Area

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NaglesMountains

OldHead ofKinsale

BoggeraghMountains

A T L A N T I CO C E A N

CorkHarbour

KinsaleHarbour

ClonakiltyBay

Youghal Bay

CourtmacsherryBay

InniscarraReservoirCarrigadrohid

Reservoir

RiverBlackwater

AllowRiver

River Bandon

River Blackwater

RylaneTemplemichael

Coachford

Villierstown

Cappoquin

Clashmore

Aglish

SandyCove

Tallowbridge

PassageWest

Fermoy

Castletownroche

Shanagarry

Newmarket

Ballyduff

Buttevant

Clonakilty

Kanturk

Cloyne

Lismore

Ring

Macroom

Inchydoney

Timoleague

Summercove

Liscarroll

Doneraile

Killeagh

Rathcormack

Ballycotton

Kilbrittain

Ballinhassig

Kinsale

Ringaskiddy

Crosshaven

Crookstown

InnishannonBandon

Courtmacsherry

Garrettstown

Butlerstown

Castlefreke

y

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BlarneyYoughal

MidletonBarryscourt

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1 Killarney Killarney’s biggest attraction, in every sense, is Killarney National Park (p 171 ), with magni cent Muckross Estate at its heart. If you’re not doing the classic Ring of Kerry route that brings you through the park, you should de nitely consider a detour here. Right in town, there are pedestrian entrances to the park opposite St Mary’s Cathedral (Cathedral Pl), a superb example of neo-Gothic

revival architecture, built between 1842 and 1855.

Also worth a visit in the town centre is the 1860s Franciscan Friary (Fair Hill), with an ornate Flemish-style altarpiece, some impressive tilework and, most notably,

stained-glass windows by Harry Clarke. The Dublin artist’s organic style was in uenced by art nouveau, art deco and symbolism.

Plunkett and College Sts are lined with pubs; behind leaded glass

c Blackwater Valley Drive

Youghal is the starting point for a glorious drive through the Blackwater Valley.

i West Cork Villages

Head 76km southwest of Youghal to Kinsale to wind your way around West Cork’s picturesque peninsulas.

LLLIINNNKKK YYYOOOUUURRR TTTRRRIIPP

On this drive around the country’s stunning southwest you’ll encounter soaring stone castles, dizzying sea cliffs, wide, sandy beaches, crystal-clear lakes, dense woodlands and boat-fi lled harbours. Villages spill over with brightly painted buildings, vibrant markets and cosy pubs with toe-tapping live music, perfectly poured pints and fantastic craic. It all conjures up iconic impressions of Ireland.

Southwest Blitz 16

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Look out for the Classic Trips stamp on our favourite routes in this book.

1 Ireland’s Highlights................7 Days 39

2 The Long Way Round.....................14 Days 55

e Ring of Kerry........................4 Days 163

g Southwest Blitz..........................4 Days 185

l Best of the West..................6 Days 235

m Musical Landscapes.............5 Days 247

s Tip to Toe.........................10 Days 303

t The North in a Nutshell..........10 Days 317

5

Oda O’Carroll From the far-flung reaches of Midwest Ireland, I upped sticks and moved to Dublin to study communications. After a stint as a TV researcher I went on to direct short films and TV documentaries in between travel writing for Lonely Planet and other (lesser!) publications. I’ve worked on titles like Britain, France, Corsica, Ireland and Dublin and now live in Dublin with my husband and three daughters.

My Favourite Trip l Best of the West It’s hard to beat this coastline for sheer scenic diversity: windswept beaches, great stretches of mountains and super-friendly towns.

Catherine Le Nevez My wanderlust kicked in when I road-tripped across Europe aged four. I’ve been hitting the road at every opportunity since, completing a Doctorate of Creative Arts in writing, a Masters in professional writing and post-grad qualifications in editing and publishing along the way. With Celtic connections including Irish and Breton heritage (and a love of Guinness!), I’ve travelled throughout every county in the emerald isle, and covered 20 of them for various Lonely Planet titles.

My Favourite Trip f Dingle Peninsula This trip ticks all the boxes: perfect breakers, fresh-as-it-gets seafood, phenomenal scenery and a poetic soul.

399

OUR STORYA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end –

broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.

Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Melbourne, London and Oakland, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

OUR WRITERS

Read more about Belinda at: www.lonelyplanet.com/members/belindadixon

Belinda Dixon I first visited Northern Ireland 20 years ago, when armed soldiers patrolled the streets. Witnessing the transformative power of the peace process in Belfast and Derry on this research trip has been inspiring. But what is also always appealing is getting off Ireland’s main routes onto the cliff-clinging minor roads; sometimes mud spattered, sometimes sand fringed, they’re unfailingly memorable drives.

My Favourite Trip v Inishowen Peninsula This is real back-roads Ireland: mountain passes, sweeps of golden beach and tiny, traditional communities. Plus Derry’s powerful past, too.

Fionn Davenport It’s funny how you can least know that which is most familiar to you. Irish-born, bred and raised, I’ve lived in and out of Ireland all of my life. But it was only when I began writing about it 20 years ago that I began to really get to know it – and this guide has been especially rewarding. I’ve taken to the road and focused less on where I was going and more on what I could see along the way.

My Favourite Trip c Blackwater Valley Drive It’s as far from my home in Dublin as I got, but on this short trip I finally got to understand what my Waterford mates had told me about their beloved Blackwater Valley.

Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty LtdABN 36 005 607 9831st edition – Mar 2013ISBN 978 1 74220 986 9© Lonely Planet 2013 Photographs © as indicated 201310 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in ChinaAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet

and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip. Paper in this book is certified against the

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MORE WRITERS

Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasonable care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum extent permitted, dis-claim all liability arising from its use.

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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