National Safe Boating Council

Essentials ofClose-Quarters Boat Control

Single/ Twin Outboard and Stern Drive

STUDENT / TRAINING MANUALFirst Edition – 2010

A Message from the Executive Director

While much has been written about concepts of boat handling, the mark of skilled boaters can best be defined by how they handle the craft in close quarters. Docking, coming along side, backing, or turning in a narrow space can be done very competently by the operator who understands the concepts involved in boat handling. A task as simple as stopping your craft is not easy if you don’t practice the skills involved so that you are able to put them together at the right time.

This training program focuses on what to do and when to do it. It is skills-based, using factors such as the wind and current to assist you in putting your boat where you want it to be. Although practice is a critical part of being able to handle your craft proficiently, proper practice is what this program is all about. This course is designed for professional/occupational boat operators such as marine enforcement officers, public safety personnel, andothers who operate a boat in the performance of their duties. However, the straight-forward and skill development approach of the program is basic enough for any recreational boater to learn how to properly operate and control a power boat.

We believe that you will find this training to be systematic, leading to safe and effective boat control for the participants.

Virgil ChambersExecutive DirectorNational Safe Boating Council

Why do I need a Close-Quarters Boat-Handling Course?

Knowledge of your boat, including how it reacts in different situations, is crucial to safe boat handling. A skilled operator is not only familiar with the specific characteristics of his boat’s responses, he knows his boat’s limitations in varying weather and water conditions, and can predict how his boat will respond. Skilled, experienced operators are highly aware of the risks and dangers involved when they get underway in less thanideal conditions. Their skill level and knowledge allows them to get underway with confidence in their ability tohandle their boat in tight conditions.

While there is no substitute for the knowledge gained from actual hands-on experience, instruction and study provide background and valuable boat-handling theory. Remember: practice makes permanent; only perfect practice makes perfect.

Nothing replaces first-hand experience and practice with a specific boat. The art of boat handling may be defined as the application of knowledge and skill acquired by study, observation, and experience. Not all boats handle the same way and most boaters do not know the nautical rules of the road or demonstrate knowledge of them.The average boater will achieve less than 100 hours of boating experience in his/her lifetime, and 98% of that will be involved in straight-away steerage in forward gear. Therefore, the burdens of expertise rest with you, the professional. The professional boater needs to demonstrate proper boating etiquette and the rules of the road as a role model for the recreational boater.

This skills-based course focuses on knowing what to do, and when to do it, using factors like the wind and current to assist you in putting your boat where you want it to be. While practice is a critical part of being able to handle your craft proficiently, proper practice is what this program is about. This manual provides details needed to properly demonstrate a variety of close-quarters maneuvers. Proper practice of these skills enables the boat operator to do what is necessary to place the craft in the correct position. All skills are accomplished at idle speed and under control, and the safety of the operator and crew is the highest priority with wearing properly fitted and fastened life jackets, and all navigation rules and safety practices being followed.

TABLE OF CONTENTS

Introduction to Close-Quarters Boat Control 2 Steering Control

3 Shifting Gears 5 Stopping Under

Control 6 Basic Maneuvering Scenarios 9 Boat

Handling In Wind 16 Boat Handling In Current 28 Splitting

Engines To Maneuver 30 Appendix A – Knots To Know 37 Appendix B –

Glossary of Boating Terms and Phrases 39 Appendix C – Slip Docking

and Departing Worksheet 41

Acknowledgements

This Close-Quarters Boat Control booklet is the result of the efforts of a number of people and organizations. For example, Captain James Battye of member organization Boat Handler, was the spark for the booklet. His original close- quarters boat handling material encouraged me to identify that there is a better way to teach boat control. He made me realize that a course of instruction can take a person through proper steps to develop understanding in a simple effective way. Thanks Jim.

Just as importantly, we needed experienced educators to take Jim’s detailed approach and craft it into a program of universal training in proper docking and close-quarters boat control. The training development skills and attention to detail of Doug Golding and Emily King (NSBC Training Director) were essential. Also critical was the input of boat handling trainers and education experts Captain Ed Huntsman, Captain Jeff Gunn and (again) Captain Jim Battye. Additionally, the material was reviewed and refined at a workshop attended by a team of individuals who have been teaching and presenting hands-on programs for years. These individuals are: Pamela Dillon, Ohio DNR Division of Watercraft; Chris Edmonston, BoatU.S. Foundation; Herman Green, U.S. Power Squadrons; Dick Allsopp, U.S. Sailing; Glenn Moates, Tennessee Wildlife Resources Agency; Mark Amaral, Association of Marina Industries; Samuel Crispin, U.S. Army Corps of Engineers; Tom Knighten, American Sailing Association; Mike Fields, Kentucky Department of Fish & Wildlife; Ron Sarver, National Association of State Boating Law Administrators, and NSBC staff members Fred Messmann andSheila Chappell who continue to move the program and this booklet forward. I would also like to acknowledge U.S. Coast Guard Grant Manager, Mike Baron, who has been supportive in both the management of this project and his knowledgeable input.

Finally, much appreciation goes to several organizations that used the Close-Quarters Boat Control program within their agencies. Their early adoption of this program helped to clarify and advanced the training concepts during the program’s developmental stages. These are: Lower Colorado River Authority (LCRA), Tennessee Wildlife Resources Agency, Arizona Game and Fish Department, Ohio Department of Natural Resources - Division of Watercraft, and Explorer’s Guide, LLC.

Virgil ChambersExecutive DirectorNational Safe Boating Council

PurposeThis course is intended to train a boat operator to control a boat in tight spaces (close quarters). The course provides instruction of basic boat control skills, primarily through hands-on training on the water with a certified instructor. These skills are then reinforced with on-water practice.

The goal of this book is to introduce basic concepts and supplement the on-water boat-handling work. The boater can study this information before actual instruction, and use the contents to review skills that were just learned on the water. This book is not intended to teach skills without the assistance of an instructor.

This course will provide step-by-step skill training. It develops basic boat control skills, and then applies them to actual maneuvers; first in open water, and then around piers and slips. Maneuvers in calm conditions, as well as with wind, and current are addressed.

Student Pre-RequisitesStudents must have completed a NASBLA-approved basic boating safety course as well as meet the legal requirements of the state where the course is being held.

Students must have a good theoretical knowledge of basic boating practices. Previous boat-handling experience is desirable.

EquipmentBoats to be used in this course must be wheel-steered, stern-drive (I/O) or outboard powered, with either single or twin engines, and ideally of center-console design. The boat should be in the range of 18-26 feet in length.

Gear shifting and throttle functions should be combined in one lever for each engine. All of the boat’s mechanical systems must be working properly. Trim tabs must beup and engine(s) must be in the down position for close- quarters maneuvering.This course excludes all small, light, outboard-powered jon boats, prams, utility boats, skiffs, and the like, because of the lack of freeboard (clearance above the surface of the water), especially at the stern. Also excluded are jet-drive boats and inboard boats with a rudder and fixed prop.

TerminologyDescriptions of the techniques in this course utilize a high degree of accuracy in terminology. Some terms may not have the meaning you might expect. To prevent confusion, the student must have a complete understanding of the terminology used throughout the text and on the water.

Before You Begin The glossary provides many definitions of terms usedthroughout the manual. The following terms will be used to describe the gear that the boat is in, not necessarily the movement or direction of movement for the boat.

Forward - in forward gear. Reverse - in reverse gear. Neutral - out of gear.Headway - moving ahead through the water.Sternway - moving backward through the water.It is important to realize that a boat making headway or sternway could be in forward, reverse, or neutral. This is possible because a boat has considerable momentum once it begins to move. When making headway in forward gear, the momentum is maintained by the engine. Shifting into neutral and then reverse gear does not bring the boat toan immediate stop; the boat’s momentum causes the boat to continue drifting ahead. Headway stops only when the boat drifts far enough for momentum to be depleted, or by increasing throttle in reverse gear to speed the process.

Arrows in graphicsPropulsion Arrows in GraphicsArrow(s) touching the stern of the boat

show(s) the direction in which the propulsion and steering wheel are acting on the stern. An arrow pointing aft indicates reverse gear; if pointing forward, forward gear. Arrows do not indicate the direction the boat is moving because engine(s) can be in reverse while a boat is making

headway. Absence of an arrow means neutral.

Wind Arrows in GraphicsArrows representing the wind

direction are labeled as such and show the direction of the wind’s travel. The arrows always point downwind, to leeward.

Current Arrows in Graphics Arrows representing the direction of the current in the water.

1

INTRODUCTION TO CLOSE- QUARTERS BOAT CONTROL

Operating in Close QuartersBasic boat handling skills include the ability to steer straight, stop the boat under control, and turn around in tight spaces. Close quarters do not offer time or space for trial and error. Complete control of the boat may seem unnecessary in open water but it is critical in close quarters to prevent damage or injury. In close quarters, neither a lot of throttle nor a lot of speed are desirable. The idea is to maneuver, dock, and depart softly, gently, and unhurriedly. Before practicing maneuvers presented in this course the operator (student) must first master four basic skills.

Four Basic SkillsThe following skills must be practiced and mastered inopen water before attempting maneuvers in close quarters.

1. Steering Wheel Control – This skill involves a constant awareness of whether the wheel is straight or turned, and if turned, which direction and how far. There is no room for guessing and making corrections if the boat does not turn the direction anticipated when shifting into gear. A technique referred to as “centering the wheel” will be taught and used throughout the course. Steering wheel control also includes the timing and knowing when (and when not) to turn the wheel. Over-steering and over-correcting are common issues a novice must overcome.

2. Shifting Gears – This skill is about shifting gears cleanly, decisively, and reliably with confidence. Smooth control of shifting levers is important to avoid lurching or causing too much momentum. The maneuvers in the course include frequent shifting but seldom involve more than idle speed. Suddenor excessive throttle must be avoided. The student must learn to use the levers to shift into gear without exceeding idle rpm. Skills include learning the correct timing for shifting gears.

3. Boater’s Eye – This is a general term for an ability to visually recognize and continually assess boat motion (momentum) or lack of motion. “Assess” is a term used often in this course and refers to utilizing boater’s eye to determine the effect of recent actions.The operator must be aware of boat speed, rate of turning, and progress toward or away from the objects nearby that are restricting operating room.Boater’s eye is critical for assessing when the boat

is stopped (completely stopped), which is the boat’s condition when most maneuvers begin and end.To assess boat motion an operator must visually utilize fixed objects to determine if a boat is stopped, is making headway or sternway, is turning, and at what speed. We do this easily when driving a car on a solid surface, but ripples or waves on the water’s surface can be deceptive to the untrained eye.The boater’s eye uses a nearby fixed object and distant background and recognizes that the alignment of the object and background is an indicator of boat motion. If the alignment is changing the boat is in motion. If the alignment is unchanging, the boat is stopped. (See diagram below.)

Distant Background Distant Background

4. Wind and Current Awareness – A skilled operator must be alert to wind direction and speed at all times as the wind will have a substantial effect on a boat, especially the bow. It is important to perform

Looking through nearby object, alignment of

background is unchanging and becomes

like a photo.Boat is stopped.

Looking through nearby object, alignment of

background is changing, like a movie.

Boat is NOT stopped.

▲ ▲▲▲

Nearby Piling

Nearby Piling

2

Introduction of room on the outside of your turns or you will knock merchandise off the shelves. The same thing will happen with a boat and a pier.

Prop Wash and Rudder EffectTwo forces steer the boat while making headway in forwardgear; the wash or thrust from the spinning prop(s), and the rudder effect of the drive(s) slicing through the water.Moving ahead (headway) in forward gear, prop wash and rudder effect work together. Shifting into neutral subtracts prop wash but the boat’s headway through the water allows the drive(s) to keep acting as rudder(s), so some steering control is retained. Making sternway in reverse gear, prop wash and rudder effect also work together.

WHACK!!

Boat making headway with engine in forward gear.

RUDDER EFFECTWater flowing around lower unit turns stern

to port.

PROP WASHForce of prop wash turns stern to port.

PROP WASH

FORWARD THRUST

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maneuvers while “working with the wind” which is the ability to anticipate the wind’s effect and use it to an advantage rather than fighting against it. Likewise, the operator must work with any current that is present. Current tends to have a greater affect at the stern.

STEERING CONTROL

Boat Steering (How Boats Steer)Cars steer from the front. Boats steer from the stern. Boats pivot, while cars do not. When you steer a car, the front tires turn the front of the car, and the rest of the car follows. Take a corner too tight and the inside rear wheel hits the curb. When you steer a boat, the outdriveor outboard swivels at the stern and directs prop wash (or thrust), which pushes the stern in the opposite direction. When making headway, a boat’s pivot point is much closer to the bow than the stern. When steering in gear with prop wash, the stern swings in an arc around the pivot point. As a result, a boat needs room on the outside of a turn whilea car needs room on the inside of a turn. This difference in boat steering is barely noticeable on open water but is critical in close quarters.

To learn how a boat turns in tight spaces go to a store and select a shopping cart. Imagine the cart is a “boat” where the cart handle is the “bow.” Hold the “stern” (the end opposite the handle) and walk forward, pushing the cart backwards. It steers from the “stern” like a boat. To turn right, move your hands (stern) to the left. To turn left, move your hands to the right. Notice that while turning sharply the stern rotates around the bow. Keep plenty

3

Steering Control

4

While making headway in reverse gear, or making sternway in forward gear, prop wash and rudder effect work against each other. For example, if a boat is making headway and the operator shifts into reverse gear to slow down or stop, these two steering forces (prop wash and rudder effect) begin working against each other.

In various situations, either prop wash or rudder effect will be more dominant. Increasing throttle in gear increases the steering force of prop wash. The faster the boat is moving through the water, the greater the steering force of rudder effect. Most boats have better slow-speed steering if the prop is turning. Understanding this distinction will become important for anticipating the response of the boat and maintaining maximum control of the bow.This is an example of why timing is important when steering and shifting. Shift too soon or turn the wheel too late (or vice versa) and control may be lost. The instructions for the maneuvers in this course provide very specific timing regarding when to turn the wheel and when to shift.

Prop WalkProp walk is a sideways force at the stern caused by the spin of the propeller. The spin gives the boat a tendency to turn slightly, instead of going straight.

Prop walk is more noticeable in reverse gear than in forward gear. Prop walk is much more pronounced on a boat with an inboard engine turning a fixed propeller and

steering with a rudder. Prop walk is less of an issue on a stern-drive or outboard powered boat because, while it still exists, steering with directed thrust easily overcomes effects of prop walk.

The direction prop walk moves the boat’s stern depends on which way the propeller spins. Viewed from astern, a right-hand propeller spins clockwise in forward gear, and a left-hand propeller spins counter-clockwise in forward gear.

A right-hand propeller “walks” the stern:

To port in reverse gear

To starboard in forward gear

A left-hand propeller “walks” the stern:

To starboard in reverse gear

To port in forward gear

Using this knowledge, prop walk can be put to good use when docking. For example, when possible, it is an advantage to approach the dock on the side where theplanned maneuver will “walk” the stern to the dock. If it is not possible to dock on the side with this advantage, prop walk may need to be factored into the plan. Again, this is easy with a stern-drive or outboard when using the directed thrust to steer. Simply turn the wheel a bit more and/or use a little more throttle, to compensate for the effect of prop walk.

Centering the WheelVarious maneuvers utilize a technique referred to as “centering the wheel.” To do this you must first find the range of the wheel. Turn the wheel all the way to the right side, hard right. Now turn the wheel to hard left while counting the number of complete turns from hard right to hard left. Divide the number of turns in half and memorize that number. To center the wheel: Turn the wheel hard right or hard left;

Turn the wheel back half way by using the number ofturns as your memorized number;

Now that the wheel is centered, keep your left hand in one place on the wheel so you know when the wheel is off center.

Boat making headway with engine in reverse gear.

RUDDER EFFECTWater flowing

around lower unit turns stern

to port.

PROP WASHForce of the prop wash

pulls the stern to starboard.

PROP WASH

REVERSE THRUST

Steering Control Steering StraightOperating in a narrow fairway requires control, including accuracy in steering straight. To practice steering straight: Center the wheel; Shift into forward gear, idle speed; Aim for a distant object, watch the bow; When the bow drifts to one side, make quick, short

“jabs” with the wheel the other way.(A short, quick jab means turning the wheel briefly, then quickly back to center.)

While using the wheel to keep the boat straight, steer mostly with your left hand. Keep your right hand free to shift gears. Keep your left hand in one place on the wheel, so you know how far to turn the wheel back to center, to straighten out. While steering straight, keep your eyes mainly on your distant object and the bow, while taking only brief glances elsewhere, such as the depth gauge.

Continue practicing by aiming for different distant objects. While practicing, occasionally take the boat intentionally off course by turning the wheel a half turn, and then straighten out again on your target. After a while, raisethe throttle(s) to 1,000 rpm and continue practicing. With practice, any tendency to over-steer will diminish.

Setting the WheelWhile performing many maneuvers in close quarters, it is advantageous to “set the wheel” before shifting into gear. Setting the wheel means making sure the wheel is in the desired direction and position before shifting into forward or reverse gear. The advantage is that turning is immediate and maximized, while not wasting any space ahead or astern. For example, if the desire is to turn to starboard, but the wheel is centered when shifting into gear, the boat begins making headway straight ahead, losing precious space while the wheel is being turned. Generally, setting the wheel will be to hard right, hard left, or in some cases, centered depending on the maneuver.

SHIFTING GEARS

Shifting ControlExcellent control is needed when shifting gears and applying throttle. Again, there is a distinction in terminology. Forward and reverse refer to shifting into the respective gear while keeping the engine(s) at idle speed. Throttle refers to increasing the engine(s) rpm above idle

and must be clearly understood. A command of “forward” will direct you to shift into forward gear, and will not mean make the boat go forward (cause headway).

Idle – engine(s) at idle rpm, also referred to as throttledown

Forward – throttle down, shift into forward gear

Neutral – throttle down, shift out of gear

Reverse – throttle down, shift into reverse gear

Go ahead – shift to forward to begin making headway

Go astern – shift to reverse to begin making sternway

Raising Throttle – increasing throttle to a set level (e.g.; 1,500 rpm) and holding it there for a set period of time, or until a maneuver is complete.

Chopping Throttle – tapping the lever(s) back to idle rpm

Pulsing a Throttle – a brief increase in throttle and quickly back to idle rpm. This is done smoothly, like you use your foot to tap on the gas pedal of your car.Shifting SmoothlyIt is important to shift gears and operate the throttle smoothly and with confidence. The student must learn to shift gears cleanly, decisively, and reliably. In close quarters, being in gear when you think you’re in neutralis not acceptable. Shifting into and out of gear should be quick and at idle. Shift too slowly or tentatively and the gears grind. Shift too far and the boat lurches. Raising and chopping throttle should be smooth.Reliable gear shifting has two main aspects: The exact distance the lever must travel to make the

shift into gear. Not far enough and the gears grind, too far and the added throttle lurches the boat and maybe causes the engine to stall.

The amount of effort required to quickly move the lever the correct distance, so that the engine clicks into gear.

Shifting from forward gear to reverse gear, or vice-versa, must always include an adequate pause in neutral between gears. Never slam the shifter directly from forward to reverse, or vice-versa. Shifting between gears too quickly may cause the engine to stall and may cause internal damage to the engine and gears.

The shifters on your boat (one per engine) combine thespeed. These terms are used during on-water instruction shifting and throttle functions into one lever. Equipment5

Shifting Gears can vary from one boat to the next. Many shifters have a trigger of sorts built into the lever. To shift into gear,squeeze and hold the trigger, and then shift. To shift into neutral, leave the trigger alone, and move the lever to neutral. The trigger will click into neutral, keeping you from going past it. Some shifters have a toggle switch sticking out the side that controls drive trim. Watch that you don’t inadvertently hit the toggle while shifting.Gear shifting also includes: Finding the levers by hand, without

looking; Having one hand on the steering wheel; Using all senses during shifting:• Ears: When shifting into gear, hear the “thunk”

of the transmission and the change in the sound of the engines. Shifting into neutral, hear the engines “sigh.” The ugly sound of grinding gears is obvious and an indicator of inaccurate shifting.

• Eyes: Look for the response of the boat’s movement when shifting into gear. Use Boater’s Eye to gauge how quickly the boat begins to move.

• Feel: When shifting into gear, feel the click of the lever, and feel the boat move. Shifting into neutral, jiggle the lever around neutral to learn just where neutral is.

This course and text use certain techniques to keep the novice safe while skill and experience are gained. Again, practice with the boat in open water until shifting is mastered. Utilize the “Training Wheels” techniques below while practicing.

“Training Wheels” TechniquesIt is important to avoid over committing, by staying in gear too long or by applying too much throttle. In close quarters these actions may cause too much momentum, creatinga need to correct. For example, too much forward may require reverse to correct, and a series of over corrections may begin. Instead, a little forward, then a little more forward if needed, and we have better control of our momentum.The point of these “training wheels” techniques is to usethe engine(s) to start the boat moving with a short burstof power to thrust the stern in the desired direction. Then, shift into neutral, to let the boat’s momentum continue, while you assess, and decide what to do next. If you need to repeat the shift, do so, and assess. Short shifts buy you the time to decide what you need to do next.

Examples of “training wheels” techniques: Engage forward gear at idle speed for one second

only, return to neutral, assess. Engage reverse gear at idle speed for two or three

seconds only, return to neutral, assess. Pause several seconds in neutral, to assess,

when shifting between forward and reverse. When engaging forward or reverse gear, do not

raise throttle. Remain at idle rpm. When shifting into reverse:

• Face the way you want the stern to go;• Set the wheel hard over that way; and• Shift into reverse, two or three seconds only,

shiftinto neutral and assess.

Novices who stay in gear too long lose boat control. As skills and timing are honed, shifting patterns will naturally adapt. With all the variables addressed in this book, the one constant is safety.

Combined Steering and ShiftingTiming is important when steering and/or shifting for maximum boat control. This timing is important primarily due to situations when prop wash and rudder effect are causing opposed steering as previously discussed.

For example, depending on the maneuver, it may be necessary to set the wheel or center the wheel before shifting into gear. Since outboard and stern-drive boats have a major advantage of directing propeller thrust, coordinated steering and shifting can offer excellent control. In some instances, the idea is to set the wheel first, then shift quickly into and back out of gear, for a short burst of prop wash. This coordination will cause the stern to turn as desired without adding as much headway or sternway.

The descriptions of maneuvers found throughout this bookwill discuss this timing in greater detail.

STOPPING UNDER CONTROL

Stopping the BoatThe ability to control the boat when stopping headway from slow/idle speed in calm conditions must be absolute. The following techniques are for keeping the boat straight while stopping. This skill requires use of reverse gear.Make sure reverse gear is working properly.

6

Stopping Under Control

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Remember, when shifting into reverse gear while making headway, prop wash and rudder effect begin working against each other. More headway favors rudder effect; less headway/speed favors prop wash. Thus, to maintain steering control, when shifting from forward to reverse, pause between gears in neutral to coast long enoughfor headway to diminish. This allows the boat to slow down enough to allow prop wash, and not rudder effect, to control the bow when shifting into reverse to finish the stop. Too much headway when shifting into reverse and the rudder effect is enough to counteract prop wash, the boat does not turn as expected, perhaps opposite as expected, and control is lost.

Stopping RuleIn order to keep the boat straight when stopping, once in reverse, whichever way the bow starts to go, turn the wheel the same way to straighten the bow: If the bow drifts right, turn the wheel right If the bow drifts left, turn the wheel left

Turn the wheel as soon as the bow starts to wander, and use as much wheel as needed to straighten the bow. If it doesn’t work, either the wheel isn’t turned far enough, or the boat is going ahead too fast and is responding more to the rudder effect of the drive(s).

Practice first in open water, on a calm day, with lots ofroom on both sides.

Standard StopThe Standard Stop is for stopping straight and is shown inthe graphic to the right.Steps are:A. Making headway in forward gear at idle speed, shift

into neutral.B. Continue coasting in neutral, still making headway,

steering with rudder effect only. Keep the bow straight as the boat slows down.

C. When headway is minimal, center the wheel, shiftinto reverse gear at idle rpm to finish the stop. Keep watching the bow and hold it straight (bow right, wheel right; bow left, wheel left).

D. Still in reverse, use “Boater’s Eye” to determine when the boat is stopped. The instant headway stops, shift from reverse into neutral. If you stay in reverse any longer, the boat will begin to make sternway.

Urgency StopThe Urgency Stop is for stopping straight more quickly than the Standard Stop allows. The Standard Stop requires a lot of time and room. It is important to also learn howto stop in less distance and shorter time, if needed. Many things may create this need, most involve surprises. The Urgency Stop should become second nature, so that when needed (and it will be needed), it will be an automatic response. In the Urgency Stop, the boat coasts less far in neutral, and some throttle is used once in reverse gear.Since headway has not diminished as in the Standard Stop, raising the throttle is necessary so steering ability from prop wash is greater than rudder effect of the drive(s).

Steps for stopping straight using an Urgency Stop when making headway in forward gear at idle speed:

A. Center the wheel, shift into neutral;

B. Coasting in neutral while still making headway, steerstraight with rudder effect only, count 1-2-3-4-5;

C. Shift into reverse;

Raise throttle above idle rpm. Keep right hand on the lever(s);

Steer the bow until headway stops (Boater’s Eye);

D. Shift into neutral. Assess.Practice in open water. At first, use minimal throttle in reverse. Try to raise the throttle to a predetermined rpm. Try to keep rpm below 1200. As control is gained with each attempt, gradually increase the predetermined level of rpm.

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Stopping Under Control

BASIC MANEUVERING SCENARIOSThe following scenarios depict basic ways to handle a boat in calm conditions, as well as in wind. Conditions not specifically mentioned in a scenario don’t exist. For example, if wind is not specified then the scenario is in calm conditions.

To a degree, the following scenarios are subjective, due in part to the wide range of factors influencing boat handling. Boat design is a major factor. Discovering how a specific boat performs can only be accomplished on the water.Therefore, a disclaimer is warranted. This content cannot guarantee a positive outcome, thus, it carries no warranty, expressed or implied.For safety reasons, these scenarios utilize the “Training Wheels” Techniques discussed earlier. Review that section before getting underway.

In the procedures described in this book, twin-engine (both outboard and stern-drive) prop-driven boats are specified. For single-engine boats, ignore references to the starboard or port engine, drives, props, etc.

Getting UnderwayPrior to casting off, make all needed safety preparations, including putting on lifejackets, performing a bilge and engine check, operating bilge blowers, attaching the engine stop-switch lanyard, etc. You have a responsibility to utilize, and not overlook, all basic safety practices learned in your pre-requisite safe boating course. For the scenarios, set all lines and fenders ahead of time to avoid the distraction of scrambling to do so at the last minute.Scenario TermsStarting Position – Dead in the water (completely stopped), engines warmed up and in neutral, wheel is centered.

Assess – Look all around the boat. See how much room you have. See how fast, and where, the boat is drifting.

Secure the Gear – Retrieve and stow fenders anddocklines.

Secure the Boat – Set and adjust fenders and docklines.Center the wheel and cut the engines.

Close Quarters 180° Turn-AroundThis is an exercise about mastering control of turning the boat efficiently. The same technique is used whether turning the boat 180° or 45°, 90°, 120°, etc. Thetechnique for a 180° turn in tight quarters is basic, yet can overwhelm a novice who is rightly concerned about hitting something. Timing (Boater’s Eye) is key, as is the abilityto stop the boat dead in the water, under full control. Use your “training wheels” and practice first in open water.The graphics on the following pages depict the process, and the critical difference between “no wind” and “light wind.” This difference broadens the close-quarters boat handling picture.

Basic Maneuvering Rules for 180° TurnsDuring the turn in this example:

• Always set the wheel before shifting into gear;

• Don’t turn the wheel until just before shifting into gear;

• Turn the wheel all the way, hard over;

• Wheel right, use port engine; wheel left, use starboardengine.

Notes

9

10

Basic Maneuvering Scenarios 180° Turn-Around – Calm ConditionsThe series of six graphics (on facing page) will supplement and reinforce the on-water skills the student learned with the trainer.

Narration of the Graphic (on facing page)

• STEP 1• A) Starting Position: The scenario begins in

the Starting Position. Boat is stopped, engines in neutral, wheel is centered.

• Decide which way to turn: Once the boat is stopped, reverse gear is used first to begin the turn. This will normally be the case. Notice the position of the boat once stopped. In this case the boat is in the middle of the fairway, but that may not always be the case. The question to ask at this point is, “To begin, which way do I pull the stern?” With no wind, the answer is, “In the direction with the most room to back up.” Here, the room on each side is equal, so either way is fine. For this scenario stern left/bow right has been chosen.

• STEP 2• A) Stern Left: Look toward the stern over your

left shoulder (face left) and set the wheel hard left. Shift starboard engine into reverse gear for 2seconds only. Shift into neutral. Assess. Repeat the shift if needed, and there is room. Assess. Coast until the boat reaches the position in 2B.

• B) The boat has coasted backward in neutral to the position shown in the graphic.

• STEP 3• B) Bow Right: Set the wheel hard right. Shift

port engine into forward gear for 1 ½ seconds only. Shift into neutral. Assess. Coast to 3C where there is enough room to back up again.

• C) The boat has coasted ahead in neutral to the position shown. Now there is enough room to back up again.

• STEP 4• C) Stern Left: Look toward the stern over your

left shoulder (face left) and set the wheel hard left. Shift starboard engine into reverse gear for 2seconds only. Shift into neutral. Assess. Repeat the shift if needed, and there is room. Assess. Coast until the boat reaches the position in 4D.

• D) The boat has coasted backward in neutral to the position shown in the graphic.

• STEP 5• D) Bow Right: Set the wheel hard right. Shift

port engine into forward gear for 1 ½ seconds only. Shift into neutral. Assess. Coast to 5E where there is enough room to back up again.

• E) The boat has coasted ahead in neutral to the position shown. Now there is enough room to back up again.

• STEP 6• E) Stern Left: Look toward the stern over your

left shoulder (face left) and set the wheel hard left. Shift starboard engine into reverse gear for 2seconds only. Shift into neutral. Assess. Repeat the shift if needed, and there is room. Assess. Coast until the boat reaches the position in 6F.

• F) The boat has coasted backward in neutral to the position shown and the turn is complete.Straighten (center) the wheel. Shift both engines into forward gear. Stay in gear and wheel steer straight out the fairway.

Some boats may need more sets of reverse and forward shifts to complete the 180° Turn-Around, but this is the pattern.

No throttle is used in this exercise since all of the maneuvers are done at idle speed using only wheel steering and gear shifts. Repeat a shift, if needed. Use the available room, especially astern, before shifting into gear.

In calm conditions, the more time spent in neutral, the more effective the turn will be. This will not be the case in the next scenario, which is the same turn, only in light wind.

Details about the 180°-Turn Graphics These graphics contain six steps to detail the full maneuver. Each step in the 180°-Turn graphics has two parts:

• Underneath is the boat as it begins and/or finished in the prior step;

• On top is where the boat ends up.

Arrow(s) touching the stern of the boat show the direction in which the engine(s) and steering wheelare acting on the stern. An arrow pointing aft indicatesreverse gear; and if pointing forward, forward gear.

180° Turn-Around – Calm Conditions This six step graphic depicts the complete sequence for a single maneuver of a 180° turn.

1AStarting Position.Decide which way to turn. Decide stern left/bow right.

2AStern Left:Face left. Set wheel hard left.Starboard engine reverse (2 sec.).Neutral. Assess.2BThe boat coasts to here.

3BBow Right:Set wheel hard right.Port engine forward (1½ sec.) Neutral. Assess.3CThe boat coasts to here.

4CStern Left:Face left. Set wheel hard left.Starboard engine reverse (2 sec.).Neutral. Assess.4DThe boat coasts to here.

5DBow Right:Set wheel hard right.Port engine forward (1½ sec.) Neutral. Assess.5EThe boat coasts to here.

6EStern Left:Face left. Set wheel hard left. Starboard engine reverse to finish the turn.Neutral. Assess.6FThe boat coasts to here. Ready to depart.Wheel straight, both engines forward gear.Stay in gear and steer out.

A A

B

B

C CD

D

E E

11

F

STEP 1 STEP 2

STEP 3 STEP 4

STEP 5 STEP 6

12

Basic Maneuvering Scenarios • Decide which way to turn: Reverse gear is used first180° Turn-Around – Less Than 5 Knot

CrosswindThe series of six graphics on the facing page work justlike the ones on the previous page, but conditions have changed slightly. A five knot breeze is blowing across the channel and the technique has been adapted subtly. Five knots of breeze is a slight change in conditions but requires changes in the maneuvering techniques. This turn (180°Turn-Around) will still work in a light breeze but it willfail in strong wind.

Light WindThe amount of force from the wind (windage) dependson numerous factors of boat design. Five knots of wind is not seven. With wind blowing against the side of a small powerboat, seven knots of wind is about twice as strong as a five knot wind, and ten knots is about four times as strong.Before attempting this technique in a light breeze it will be helpful to understand some of the basic physics of wind.Take a moment to read ahead, especially the sections aboutLeeway, Lee Shore, and the Weathervane Effect.

Basic Maneuvering Rules for 180° TurnsDuring the turn in this example:

• Set the wheel before shifting into gear;• Don’t turn the wheel until just before shifting;• Turn the wheel all the way, hard over;• Wheel right, use port engine; wheel left, use

starboardengine.When shifting into reverse:

• Face the way you want the stern to go;• Turn the wheel hard over that way;• Shift the outside engine into reverse; and• Shift into reverse for 2 or 3 seconds

only.Narration of the Graphic (on facing page) This maneuver uses no throttle; only gear shifts are made. Compared to this same maneuver in no wind, this maneuver will require slightly more time in reverse gear and shorter time in forward gear and neutral. Being inneutral too long gives control of the boat to the wind. Being in forward gear too long will send the boat toward the lee shore. Use forward gear only to gain enough room asternto back up again. In reverse gear, use all the available room astern. If there is room, do not fear repeating a reverse shift to pull the stern farther upwind. The lengths of time in gear are estimates, so adapt them to your boat.In close quarters, stay away from the lee shore. Make your approach in the upwind side of the fairway, stop, and immediately back the stern into the wind.

STEP 1• A) Starting Position: The boat has entered slightly

upwind of center fairway (to avoid the lee shore) and stopped.

to pull the stern into the wind, so when entering the fairway you should have already chosen stern left/bow right. If the wind were from the opposite direction, the stern would be pulled the other way.

STEP 2• A) Immediately begin the turn. This is the easy part

of the turn because of help from the wind with the weathervane effect. Face left, set the wheel hard left. Shift starboard engine into reverse gear for 2 seconds. Shift into neutral. Assess. Repeat the shift if needed, and there is room astern, until the boat reaches 2B.

• B) The boat has coasted to the position shown.Promptly continue the turn.

STEP 3• B) Set the wheel hard right. Shift port engine into

forward gear for 1 second only, just enough to create room astern to back up again. Shift into neutral. Assess.

• C) The boat has coasted to the position shown, with room astern. Promptly continue the turn since leeway limits your time to delay.

STEP 4• C) Face left, set the wheel hard left. Shift starboard

engine into reverse gear for 2 seconds. Shift into neutral. Assess. Repeat the shift if needed, and there is room astern, until the boat reaches 4D.

• D) The boat has coasted to the position shown.Promptly continue the turn.

STEP 5The turn is not complete. It looks so easy to just go straight ahead out the fairway. The boat’s inertia in forward gear, along with even light wind, will send the boat dangerously near the lee shore. Use only enough forward gear to give you room to back up, then back the stern to port without delay. This is the hardest part of the turn because you are working against the weathervane effect.• D) Set the wheel hard right. Shift port engine into

forward gear for ½ second only. Shift into neutral. Assess quickly and...

• E) Face left, set the wheel hard left. Shift starboard engine into reverse gear long enough to finish the turn. A pulse of the throttle may be needed.

STEP 6• E) Continue in reverse gear until the boat is facing

out and slightly to the windward (upwind) side of the fairway. Shift into neutral.

• F) Straighten (center) the wheel. Shift both engines into forward gear. The turn is done so stay in gear and wheel steer, aiming slightly upwind to offset leeway and keep safely clear of the lee shore.

Pulsing: After having mastered the exercise at idle speed, pulse the throttle during each shift in reverse gear. Use one short, easy pulse only.

180° Turn-Around – Less Than 5 Knot Crosswind This six step graphic depicts the complete sequence for a single maneuver of a 180° turn.

1AStarting Position.Decide which way to turn. Decide to pull the stern into the wind. (stern left/bow right)Do not delay.

2AFace left. Set wheel hard left.Starboard engine reverse (2 sec.).Neutral. Assess.Repeat shift if there is room astern.2BThe boat coasts to here.

3BSet wheel hard right.Port engine forward (1 sec.) Neutral. Assess.Coast only until you can back up.3CThe boat coasts to here. Do not delay.

4CFace left. Set wheel hard left.Starboard engine reverse (2 sec.).Neutral. Assess.Repeat shift if there is room astern.4DThe boat coasts to here.5DSet wheel hard right.Port engine forward (½ sec.) Neutral. Assess.Coast only until you can back up.5EThe boat has drifted to here. Do not delay.Face left. Set wheel hard left. Starboard engine reverse long enough to finish the turn. A throttle pulse may be needed.

6EContinue in reverse until facing out and slightly to the windward side of the fairway.Neutral.6FThe boat coasts to here and the turn is complete.Ready to depart.Wheel straight, both engines forward gear.

A A

B

B

C CD

D

E

E

F

STEP 1

13

STEP 2

Stay in gear and wheel steer out, aiming slightly upwind to offset leeway.

STEP 3 STEP 4

STEP 5 STEP 6

Docking & Departing – Calm Conditions Docking Scenario 1 Departing Scenario 1

14

E

D

C

B

AA) Approach in forward gear at idle speed. Approach at a slight angle, nearly parallel. With the boat going straight, aim for a spot along the pier (say,the third piling, shown dark). Shift into neutral. Coast in neutral aiming at the target piling, steering with rudder effect only.

B) Hold the boat straight. Coast in neutral aiming at the target piling, steering with rudder effect only.

C) When bow is close to pier and headway nearly stopped, shift port engine into reverse and set the wheel a turn or so toward the pier. Stern swings to pier as headway slows.

D) When stopped and boat is parallel with pier, shift into neutral. Boat is stopped.

E) Secure the boat. A

B

C

D

A) Starting Position. Cast off lines.

B) Shift starboard engine into reverse.Set wheel left, ½ turn. Stern swings away from pier as boat begins to back up.

Forward will not work, so don’t try.

C) Center the wheel. Shift both engines into reverse gear.

D) Secure the gear when clear of pier.

E

D

C

B

B

A

B

C

D

Docking & Departing – Calm Conditions Docking Scenario 2Departing Scenario 2

A) Starting Position. Cast off lines.

A) Approach in forward gear at idle speed. Approach at a slight angle, nearly parallel. With the boat going straight, aim for a spot along the pier (say,the third piling, shown dark). Shift into neutral. Coast in neutral aiming at the target piling, steering with rudder effect only.

B) Hold the boat straight. Coast in neutral aiming at the target piling, steering with rudder effect only.

C) When bow is close to pier and headway nearly stopped, shift starboard engine into reverse and set the wheel a turnor so toward the pier. Stern swings to pier as headway slows.

D) When stopped and boat is parallel with pier, shift into neutral. Boat is stopped.

B) Shift port engine into reverse.Set wheel right,½ turn. Stern swings away from pier as boat begins to back up.

Forward will not work, so don’t try.

C) Center the wheel. Shift both engines into reverse gear.

D) Secure the gear when clear of pier.

E) Secure the boat.

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Boat Handling in Wind Wind AwarenessA skilled operator must be alert to wind direction and speed at all times because wind will have a substantial effect on a boat. The stronger the wind is blowing,the greater the effect it will have on close-quarters maneuvering. It is critical to gain an ongoing, constant awareness, and innate sense of wind direction and strength.About WindWind is moving air and is caused by various conditions. Weather forecasts describe wind by its speed and the direction of its source. For example, a northerly wind comes from the north; an easterly wind is from the east, etc. Wind speed is typically described in knots, although some weather forecasts in inland areas (non-coastal) may describe wind speed in miles per hour. A speed of 1 knot is equal to approximately 1.15 mph.

In some geographical areas the wind can be fairly steady in speed and direction. In other areas, the wind canshift direction rather dramatically. Also, wind speed canabruptly increase (gust) or decrease (lull).

Wind is somewhat like water flowing down a stream. Flowing water pushes an object downstream while it takes effort to go upstream against current. Wind blowing across water pushes a floating object downwind (leeward).

Most localized areas have features that affect the wind direction. Hills, buildings, and trees are examples of features that can block or deflect the wind locally. Like water flowing down a stream, wind will flow over or around an obstruction and swirl back (eddy) behindthe obstruction. The wind direction can be different ina specific area (behind a building) than the wind in the larger surrounding area. Thus, it is important for the boat operator to be able to sense the wind in the immediate area. The operator must be able to accurately determine wind direction and estimate wind speed.

Wind TermsWindward – Upwind. Toward or into the wind.Leeward – Downwind. Away from or off the wind. Leeway – Downwind drift of a boat. The wind’s effect on a boat’s direction of travel.Lee Shore – Land, fixed object, or shallow water directly down wind. Where the wind will blow a drifting boat if the engines quit.Windage – Wind resistance on the area and shape of the boat exposed to the wind. Greater windage causes greater leeway.

Finding the WindImagine a huge fan far away making the wind. Upwind, or to windward, is toward the fan. To find the wind, feel iton your face. Look toward the fan and turn your head back and forth until the wind feels the same on both cheeks or on both ears. As you turn your face back and forth, at the moment the wind feels equal you are facing directly to windward, toward the wind. Turn around 180 degrees and you are facing directly to leeward, or downwind.Clues to Wind DirectionOn land: Flags flutter downwind; thus, the flagpole is upwind of the flag. Smoke from a grill or chimney will drift downwind; thus, the grill or chimney is upwind. Often, birds stand facing the wind and take off into the wind.On water: The wavelets on the surface are made by wind, and travel in the same direction. An anchored boat will swing downwind of the anchor, and the bow aims into the wind.

Clues to Wind StrengthOn land: How straight does a flag fly and how fast does it flap? How much are tree limbs disturbed, and how much do branches sway? Practice guessing wind speed based upon what you see.On water: How large are the wavelets? Are they smooth or do they have edges? Does white water curl on their tops?

TelltalesA telltale is a wind indicator placed on a boat to obtain quick and accurate information on wind direction. Telltales are typically a small flag or piece of cloth, string, orribbon, commonly used on sailboats. Placing a telltale on a power boat may be very helpful, especially for the novice. Be sure to place the telltale high enough, such as on an antenna, where the wind flow is unaffected by the boat or occupants.

Boat Handling in Wind the windward side of the fairway when possible. NegateLeeway

Leeway is the downwind drift of a boat from the effect of the wind. Wind speed, and the boat’s design, both above and below the water, will affect the rate of leeway. The amount of windage from a boat’s design is a major factor. When motoring slowly ahead, and steering a course across the wind, a boat will move sideways, somewhat crablike. If the wind is on your starboard beam, your leeway (sideways movement) will be to port. While leewaymay be barely detectable in open water, it is critical to consider in a narrow fairway or channel, where planning for leeway is essential. To compensate for leeway, stay on

leeway by steering the boat slightly upwind of the course you wish to “make good.”

Lee ShoreSince a boat has no ground to stand on, it is at the mercy of the wind, to some extent. The wind will blow a drifting boat to leeward until something (shallow water, a pier, etc.) stops it. Whatever that something may be, it’s called a lee shore. The stronger the wind is, and the more surface area (windage) a boat has, the more leeway it will make.You must be aware of your leeway, so that you can offset it by steering a course that will keep you well upwind of the lee shore. Always know where the lee shore is, and stay well clear of it. Running aground on a lee shore teaches a powerful, but bitter, lesson.

Weathervane EffectWind pushes a drifting boat’s bow faster than the stern. The bow of a drifting boat will swing downwind while the stern will lie closer to the wind. This is called the “weathervane effect.”

As a boat drifts downwind, the boat’s drag through the water slows it down. At the stern, the drag of the engine (outdrive, prop) may cause the stern to drift more slowly than the bow. Also, the stern is heavier than the bow and sits lower in the water. The bow has less to drag through the water and, depending on hull design, may also have greater windage. The wind therefore blows the bow more quickly than the stern.

Because of the weathervane effect, for most boats in close quarters, it is more controllable and safer to keep the wind astern, rather than ahead or abeam. Thus, for control, many of the close-quarters techniques in this course put the wind astern. When putting the stern to the wind the weathervane effect assists. When putting the bow to the wind you must work against the weathervane effect.

It is important to note that in open water with waves, putting the stern to the wind may cause waves to wash over the stern, swamping the boat. The amount of wind and waves a boat can safely take on the stern will vary by boat design. Most close-quarters situations are in protected, calmer waters.

Ferrying and Ferry AngleFerrying is a technique that uses the wind (or current) asan advantage to help move a boat sideways. Understanding the forces involved in ferrying is important to avoid fighting against these forces.

17

Boat Handling in Wind

18

Positioning a boat at an angle to the wind causes the wind to hit the side of the boat. The resulting wind pressure (windage) on the side of the boat pushes the boat sideways. Wind on the port side pushes the boat to starboard and wind on the starboard side pushes the boat to port. Engines are used to hold position (prevent leeway) and maintainan effective ferry angle. The angle of the boat is very important. Too little angle causes the technique to be ineffective. Too much angle causes loss of steering control.Ferrying will work with either the bow or stern toward the wind. Stern to wind offers much more control due to the weathervane effect, and it is easier to recover if control is lost. Remember, if the wind is blowing, theseforces affect the boat, whether you’re trying to use it or are inadvertently fighting against it.

Waves in Close QuartersWind rubs the water’s surface causing ripples that move in the same direction. As the wind strengthens, the ripples grow into waves. The larger the open area (fetch) the wind is blowing across, the taller and more powerful these waves can grow. Land will block waves causingprotected, calmer waters downwind of the land, in the “lee of the land.” Marinas are typically constructed to provide protected water in the lee of the land in a natural harbor or from a breakwater. Do not utilize stern to wind techniques in open water with large waves.

Close-Quarters Wind Scenarios

Basic Rules of Boat Handling in WindFew statements are as universal as these four basic rules:

Rule 1: Wind on the port side blows (ferries) a boat tostarboard.

Rule 2: Wind on the starboard side blows (ferries) a boatto port.

Rule 3: To hold position in close quarters, lie stern-to- wind.

Rule 4: In close quarters, do NOT try to turn the bow intothe wind.

See graphics on facing page.

Stern-to-Wind: Is it Safe?Most of the techniques in this course prescribe putting the stern into the wind for better control. The reasons for this have been discussed. Since stern-to-windmay be contrary to what you learned in a basic safety course, you may be wondering if this is safe.

Most basic safety courses suggest keeping the bow into the wind when docking and performing other maneuvers. Those basic safety courses are generally written to apply to all boats, including small, open boats with low freeboard at the stern, that are specifically excluded from this course (See page 1). These small boats may be easily swamped or capsized when putting the stern to the wind and waves. Also, these small boats may have considerably less windage at the bow and thus are not as susceptible to control problems in wind. Since the goal of a safety course is to prevent accidents, bow-to-wind is taught to prevent small boat swamping accidents. One safety rule is basically outranking another.

Further, basic safety courses tend to address wind and current together. Current affects a boat differently than wind. Most boats, regardless of size, are more easily controlled bow-to-current.

This course presumes a larger boat with adequate freeboard astern, and operating in protected waters where most close-quarters maneuvering will take place. However, it is important for any size boat to know the limits of the size of waves that can safely be taken on the stern. Any amount of water coming aboard from waves splashing over the transom must be avoided. If this is occurring, then the conditions of wind and waves are too great or the water is too open and not protected enough for the maneuver. Do not operate stern-to-wind if waves from astern will endanger the boat at all.

So, the answer to the question “Is it safe?” relies on your ability to recognize the existing conditions, their effect on the boat, and the limitations of the boat.

Carbon MonoxideAnother consideration of lying stern to wind is the potential for exhaust fumes to blow back into the boat. The more enclosed the boat, the greater the risk of carbon monoxide accumulating in the boat. Keep this in mind and avoid long periods of exposure to carbon monoxide. Installing a marine-approved carbon monoxide detector in the boat can alert you to dangerous levels of this highly toxic gas.

WIND PRESSURE

To ferry the boat slowly to port, put the wind slightly on the starboard side. Begin stern-to-wind, then acquire the desired ferry angle by using some wheel to the left and shift the starboard engine into reverse. Maintain the wind angle and hold your distance off the lee shore using thewheel and shifting between reverse and neutral. To end the sideways drift, pull the stern back into the wind using some wheel to the right and shift the port engine into reverse.

With the stern to the wind, the lee shore is dead ahead. Hold your position using the wheel to keep the wind dead astern and shift between reverse and neutral to prevent drifting ahead. The weathervane effect will assist you in this maneuver.

The wind and resulting weathervane effect will keep the boat from turning upwind. The boat in this illustration is attempting to use the starboard engine to turn into the wind and is fighting against the wind. In a 15-knot wind, leeway will be substantial and will push the boat quickly to the lee shore.

Basic Rules of Boat Handling in a 15-Knot Wind

Rule 1 Wind on port ferries a boat to starboard Rule 2 Wind on starboard ferries a boat to port.

WIND PRESSURE

WIND PRESSURE

To ferry the boat slowly to starboard, put the wind slightly on the port side. Begin stern-to-wind, then acquire the desired ferry angle by using some wheel to the right and shift the port engine into reverse. Maintain the wind angle and hold your distance off the lee shore using the wheel and shifting between reverse and neutral. To end the sideways drift, pull the stern back into the wind using some wheel to the left and shift the starboard engine into reverse.

Rule 4 DO NOT try to turn the bow into the wind.Rule 3 To hold position, lie stern-to-wind.

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Docking and Departing in Wind Stern line: Attached to a rear (after) boat cleat and runsPilings and Pier Corners

Pilings and the corners of piers can be useful tools when maneuvering in close quarters. Not everyone agreeswith the idea of using these tactics, believing that any boat contact with pilings and piers is bad and must be completely avoided. This course acknowledges that hitting a pier or piling is indeed bad, but to gently lay against, pivot around, or slide along them adds controland, thus safety. If a skipper has adequate skill to use other techniques and safely avoids this gentle contact, then fine, but here it is assumed that level of skill does not yet exist. So, it is better to gently use a pier or piling than to slam into one. Being stern-to-wind allows sturdy, solid pilings and pier corners to be used as tools, whose proper use is a part of basic close-quarters boat handling. The use of large, well-placed fenders between the side of the boat and the piling ensures that contact will be soft.Docklines, Knots, Uses, and TermsEffective use of docklines is critical in close quarters, especially in the following scenarios depicting docking and departing in wind. Any crew assisting with these techniques must be skilled with knots and their use, coiling and stowing lines, hanging fenders, rigging docklinesfor arrival, and other line related skills. In addition, well- placed cleats on the boat are necessary for these tactics to work safely.

Types of DocklinesOften, inexperienced skippers are unaware of the various dock lines and their uses, referring to all lines as bow or stern line, based on where the line is attached to the boat. However, there are several lines that can be secured to the bow or stern and, depending on their direction and use, are given other names.

Bow line: Attached to a forward boat cleat and runs well forward along the pier to prevent the boat from moving astern.

well astern along the pier to prevent the boat from goingahead.For securing a small craft, bow and stern lines are often the only ones required. If these lines are long enough, they can allow for rise and fall of the tide.

Spring line: Spring lines are used to keep a boat in position where there is significant rise and fall of tide. Although only two spring lines generally are used at one time, there may be as many as four: forward bow spring, after bow spring, forward quarter spring, and after quarter spring. Bow springs are attached to the boat at or near the bow; quarter springs are attached to the boat at or near the stern. Forward springs lead well forward from the boat attachment to the pier, and prevent the boat from moving astern. After springs lead well aft from the boat attachment to the pier, and prevent the boat from going ahead.

Breast line: Secured to a boat cleat and run to the pier at nearly a right angle to both the boat and pier. Used to keep a boat close to the pier, such as when boarding. Where tide exists, do not leave a breast line secured to a fixed pier.

Knots to KnowThe following is a minimum list of knots and hitches thatyou should have proficiency tying.

• Cleat Hitch• Bowline• Round Turn and two Half-Hitches• Clove Hitch (with two Half-Hitches)• Sheet Bend

Much practice is needed to master a knot or hitch. Once you learn a knot, tie it numerous times a day for a couple of weeks, until you can tie it quickly with your eyes closed.

Use the Proper KnotA knot or hitch is a solution to a specific task, thus has a specific purpose. Use the best knot for the task at hand.See Appendix A for more on knots and proper use.

1. Bow line

2. Forward spring

20

3

12 4 5 6

7

8

3. Forward (bow) breast

4. After bow spring

5. Forward quarter spring

6. After (quarter) breast

7. After quarter spring

8. Stern line

Docking – 15-Knot Wind Across Pier, Scenario 1

A B

C D

A) Starting Position. Stern-to-wind, four feet off your pre- chosen target piling (darkened). Position the boat and fender so the fender is lined up with the target piling.

B) Shift starboard engine into reverse. Use some wheel toward the pier to set a ferry angle so the wind is enough to starboard to ferry the boat to port. Use the engine and wheel to maintain ferry angle and keep the fender lined up with the target piling, while the boat ferries to port.

C) Reaching the pier, use the engine to keep the fender on the target piling. Have the crew hitch the stern line and spring line to that piling. With lines set up taut, shift into neutral. The wind will finish the work, swinging the bow to the pier.

D) Secure the boat.

Basic Rules of Wind AppliedRule 2: Wind on starboard ferries a boat to port.

Rule 3: Put the stern into the wind for control.

STEP 1 STEP 2

STEP 3 STEP 4

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D

Departing – 15-Knot Wind Across the Pier, Scenario 1

A) Starting Position, stern-to-wind.

Basic Rules of Wind AppliedRule 1: Wind on port ferries a boat to starboard.

Rule 3: Put the stern into the wind for control.

B) Rig out-and-back stern line and after-bow lines for easy retrieval. Cast off the other lines. The boat will lie as shown.

C) Cast off and retrieve the stern line and retrieve the aft fender. The wind will blow the stern away from the pier. In several seconds, the boat will lie as shown. Cast off and retrieve the spring line and retrieve the fender.

D) In several seconds, the wind and resulting leeway and ferry angle will carry the boat clear of the pier, as shown. Secure the gear.

A B

C

STEP 1 STEP 2

STEP 3 STEP 4

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Docking – 15-Knot Wind Across Pier, Scenario 2 Look for an available pier with an open corner around which to pivot. Before approaching, rig docklines and fenders while still in open water. Set the horizontal fender on the wide, forward part of the boat. The end of the pier in the diagram puts you starboard-side-to. Stop the boat with the corner of the pier alongside, about amidships. Should a sudden wind shift ruin your approach, just back away from the pier, and plan an adjustment for your next approach.

Basic Rules of Wind AppliedRule 1: Wind on port ferries a boat to starboard.

Rule 3: Put the stern into the wind for control.

AA) Starting Position, stern-to-wind. Select a target piling to land (darkened). Position the boat several feet away with the fender lined up on the target piling.

B

CD

E

B) Shift port engine into reverse. Use some wheel toward the pier to set a ferry angle so the wind is enough to port to ferry the boat to starboard. Use the engine and wheel to maintain the ferry angle and keep the fender lined up with the target piling, while the boat ferries to starboard.

C) In reverse, land your fender on the target piling. Use enough reverse gear, neutral, wheel, and throttle to hold the boat (and fender) in place during the pivot turn.

D) While using shifts as needed between reverse and neutral to keep the fender on the piling, set the other fenders.

E) Use reverse and neutral until the boat is flush with the pier. Shift into neutral. Secure the boat.

STEP 1 STEP 2

STEP 3 STEP 4

STEP 5

23

Departing – 15-Knot Wind Across Pier, Scenario 2

Basic Rules of Wind AppliedRule 3: Put the stern into the wind for control.

A-BC

A)Starting Position, as shown. A horizontal fender is set on the wide, forward part of the boat, well placed on the corner piling.B)Rig an after-bow spring line around the corner piling for quick retrieval from the boat. Cast off and retrieve other lines.

E

D

C) Set the wheel toward the pier. Shift the outside engine (port in this case) into forward. Use only enough throttle to get the boat to turn. Make sure the fender remains well placed on the piling.

D) When the wind is astern, shift into neutral and center the wheel. Retrieve the spring line and seat the crew. Reverse into the wind.

E) Once you have safely reached open water, secure the gear.

STEP 1 STEP 2

STEP 3

24

Docking – 15-Knot Wind Along the Pier

A

Basic Rules of Wind AppliedRule 2: Wind on starboard ferries a boat to port.

Rule 3: Put the stern into the wind for control.

B

C D

A) Starting Position, stern-to-wind. Select a target piling (darkened) to land your quarter. Position the boat several feet away from the pier with the fender lined up on the target piling. Use reverse to prevent leeway and hold position with the fender lined up on the piling.

B) Shift the starboard engine into reverse. Use some wheel toward the pier to set a ferry angle so the wind is enough to starboard to slowly ferry the boat to port. Use the engine and wheelto maintain the ferry angle and keep the fender lined up with the target piling, while the boat ferries to port.

C) As the fender lands on the target piling, continue using the engine to keep the fender in position on the piling. Have crew hitch stern line and spring line to that piling. With lines set up taut, shift into neutral. The wind will finish the work, as the weathervane effect swings the bow to the pier.

D) Secure the boat.

STEP 1 STEP 2

STEP 3 STEP 4

25

B

D

E

Departing – 15-Knot Wind Along the Pier

A

C

A) Starting Position, stern-to- wind.

Basic Rules of Wind AppliedRule 1: Wind on port ferries a boat to starboard.

Rule 3: Put the stern into the wind for control.

B) Rig a fender on the pier-side bow. Re-lead the bow line out- and-back, then the pier-side stern line out-and-back, as shown. Cast off and retrieve other lines.

C) Cast off and retrieve the remaining stern line. The wind will blow the stern away from the pier. In several seconds, the boat will lie as shown with the wind now on the port side.

D) Center the wheel. Cast off and retrieve the bow line and seat the crew. Shift into reverse, steering straight back, pulling the boat upwind and away from the pier. The ferry angle helps move the boat to starboard, away from the pier.

STEP 1 STEP 2

STEP 3 STEP 4

26

E) Once you have safely reached open water, secure the gear.

Notes Use this area to write down or sketch your observations and questions.

27

BOAT HANDLING IN CURRENTCurrent is the flow of water. Current is strongest wherethe water is deepest, and weakens toward the shore, as the bottom rises to impede it. Near shore, weak countercurrents may flow. Current strengthens whereshorelines bottleneck (the “Venturi Effect”). Some narrows are well-known: Hell Gate for example. Current can exceed five knots, in some places.

28

Current TermsSet – the direction of a current’s flowDrift – the speed of a current’s flow

(one knot = one nautical mile per hour)

Current / Wind in Close QuartersIn close quarters, it is a big mistake to treat current and wind the same. We have seen that wind weathervanes drifting boats, so they lie somewhere between beam-to-wind and stern-to-wind; current has little predictable effect on where the drifting boat points. Think of a stick floating downstream. Current does not aim the stick in any direction; the mass of flowing water just carries it along, as does an escalator, or a conveyor belt.

Holding station in the wind means keeping the boat stationary both in the water and over the bottom, while air blows across the boat, but no water (current) flows by it.Holding station in current means to aim the bow straight into the current, and stem the current (use enough forward gear to keep from making sternway) while water flows equally along both sides of the boat. With no wind, the boat and the air stay put, while the water flows by.

Strong current...Holding station bow-to-current. Consider 5 knots of current. To hold station bow-to-current is to make 5 knots of headway straight against 5 knots of current, thus remaining stationary. That is trivial. Boathulls and props are designed to make headway easily through water.

Likewise, it is simple to ferry sideways, by aiming the boat so the current is port- or starboard-bow-to a strong current. Once the slight turn is made, hold your direction and use just enough throttle to stem the current (keep from being drifted downstream).

Strong current ... Holding station stern-to-current. But, holding station stern-to 5 knots of current is just like backing up at 5 knots with no current. Both represent 5 knots of sternway through the water, but most boats are not designed to back up that fast. When backing up, flat- transom sterns pile up the water against them, as would a flat hand been drawn sideways through the water. Going forward, bows, being sharp, slice through the water, like the same hand, moved fingertips first. Which is the path

of least resistance? Indeed, because of reduced steering control when traveling downstream, one of the Western Rivers Rules offers to vessels traveling with the current access to the right-of-way over vessels going upstream. No similar Rule exists for wind.

Lesson: For most boats, strong current (= 5 knots) and strong wind (= 20 knots) need to be treated oppositely; they are best controlled bow-to-current, or stern-to-wind.

But, that’s strong current. Stern-drive-powered boats are quite controllable while holding station, or ferrying sideways, stern-to a weak current. But, how weak isa weak current? Since ultimate answers are found on the water, actual open-water testing of a boat in current provides the only answer that matters.

Why lie stern-to-current, at all? One reason is convenience in docking. With one knot of current flowing along a pier, it is more convenient for a singlehander to come alongside stern-to-current, hitch a short stern line to hold the boat in place, and take his own good time with the other lines and fenders. So, if a boat is controllable stern-to one knot of current, why not dock that way?

Basic Rules of Boat Handling in Wind1. Wind on the port side blows a boat to starboard.2. Wind on the starboard side blows a boat to port.3. To hold position in close quarters, lie stern-to-wind.4. In close quarters, don’t try to turn your bow into

thewind.Basic Rules of Boat Handling in Current1. Current on the port side drifts a boat to starboard.2. Current on the starboard side drifts a boat to port.3. To hold position in close quarters, lie bow-to-current.4. When beam-to-current, have plenty of room

downstream.Current and Downstream BridgesWhen traveling downstream, it is crucial to stay wellaway from all downstream obstructions like drawbridges.Unwary boaters, while waiting upstream for a bridge to open, have been taken by the current into the bridgeand pinned against it, to their great distress. Hold station bow-to-current well upstream of the drawspan. When the time is right, swing around, line up early, and go straight downstream, through the middle of the opening. Use enough throttle to control the boat.Notice the Rule 3 GraphicThe boat is holding station, yet it is making a wake. In current, the flowing water will make a v-shaped wake around any stationary or anchored object (buoy, beacon, piling). And, the stronger the current is, the larger the wake will be. Look for the wake, and learn to gauge the strength of the current by the size of wake that you see.

Boat Handling in Current Rule 1 Applied Ferrying to Starboard Rule 2 Applied (Here, to

dock starboard-side-to-pier)

Stop the boat, bow-to-current.A)Steer to put the current slightly on the port bow, and hold that heading. Use just enough forward gear to stem the current, which then ferries you to starboard.B)Once at the pier, stem the current while crew step ashore and hitch a taut bow line. Finish docking.

Set a forward stern spring line, and retrieve other lines.A)When the current has pivoted you this far, retrieve the spring line and use just enough forward gear to stem the current, which ferries the boat away from the pier.B)To stop ferrying, if desired, steer the bow straight into the current.

Downstream is a drawbridge, and the operator is holding station bow-to-current, waiting for it to open. The drawspan is 100’ to port of the boat, out of the graphic. But... The boat is much too close to the bridge, because in this current there isn’t enough room downstream for the boat to

In this current, the boat is much too close to the open drawbridge to reach its opened span. The current will force the boat into the bridge, and probably pin it there. Lesson: Lie bow-to-current far enough upstream of the drawspan to let you turn the boat around and line it up. Then steer

Ferrying to Port(Here, to depart the pier)

Rule 4 Ignored The boat has too little roomdownstream

Rule 3 Applied Holding Station Bow-to-Currrent

B A B A

turn around and steer straight through the opening. straight downstream through the opening,

29

Splitting Engines to Maneuver Splitting Twin EnginesThe ability to split twin engines (using one in forward gear and one in reverse gear at the same time) has two basic purposes:

1) to pivot in place; and2) to pivot around a piling or pier end without using

aspring line.

The opposing thrust of the two split engines has the effect of providing very efficient turning ability. This efficiency is due mainly to how far the props are set apart. The farther apart the props are set, the greater the leverage of the turning forces. Twin stern-drive props are generally set farther apart than twin outboard props. Set the wheel straight to turn in place, but only in calm or light winds, since the turning forces are fairly weak. How well aspecific boat can make split engine turns is best learned bytrying it out on the water.Test: Center the wheel and measure the distance between the centers of the props. The farther apart they are, the better splitting the engines will work. In all cases, center the wheel before splitting the engines, and leave the wheel alone during the maneuver. Think of the two shifters like hands on the handle of a shopping cart.

Shopping Cart AnalogyIf the wheel is centered, the two engines act like your two hands on a shopping cart.

With both hands on the handle of the cart:• Push with just the left hand and the cart goes forward

and the front of the cart turns right.• Push with just the right hand and the cart goes

forward and the front of the cart turns left.• Push with both hands and the cart goes forward and

straight ahead.• Pull with both hands and the cart goes backward and

goes straight.• Pull with just the left hand and the cart goes

backwardand the front of the cart turns left.

• Pull with just the right hand and the cart goesbackward and the front of the cart turns right.

But, when splitting hands (engines):• Push with the left hand and pull with the right,

thecart turns clockwise, nearly in place.

• Pull with the left hand and push with the right, thecart turns counterclockwise, nearly in place.

Shopping Cart AppliedBelow are shown three types of stern left/bow right turns. The arrows show the effect on a boat of various gear shifts. Center the wheel and use no throttle.

Example 1: Port engine in forward, starboard engine in neutral. The boat makes headway as it turns stern left/ bow right.

Example 2: Starboard engine in reverse, port engine in neutral. The boat makes sternway as it turns stern left/bow right.

Example 3: Port engine in forward, starboard engine in reverse. The boat makes minimal headway, pivots nearly in place, as it turns stern left/bow right more effectively.

Describe three types of stern right/bow left turns and list the specifics of each.

Splitting Twin Stern-Drives to Turn in Place – Calm Conditions

Unequal Thrust of Split EnginesAll other things being equal, with one engine in forward and the other in reverse, the boat will drift forward slowly while turning. This is because a boat hull goes forward more easily, and props are designed to work better in forward than in reverse. So, between the forward and reverse gears of split engines, forward is stronger. In order to pivot in place dead in the water, you must match the split engine thrust of forward push and reverse pull.

The wheel must be centered when splitting twin stern- drives or outboards. The net effect of turning the wheel is negative; it hurts the turn since turning the wheel cancels out the thrust of one engine with the opposite thrust of the other.

g

30

gg

g

gg

gg

Splitting Engines to Maneuver Matching Split EnginesThe trick to staying in place during a pivot turn is to balance the unequal thrust of split engines. There are three separate methods to equalize, or match the net effect of split engines. In order of difficulty, they are described below.

Matching Thrust – Method 1Do a series of shifts. Split the engines, shifting in a sequence so the engine in reverse is in gear longer than the forward engine. Practicing on the water, find the balance between time in forward and reverse that will hold the boat dead in the water as it pivots. Repeat the sequence several times, assessing headway or sternway in neutral each time, until the turn is done.

First, count five steps, starting with both engines in neutral:

1) Shift one engine into reverse;

2) Shift the other into forward;

3) Pause (do nothing) 1 second;

4) Shift the forward engine into neutral;

5) Shift the reverse engine into neutral.

That is one complete shift, with the reverse engine in gear slightly longer. After a complete shift sequence, assess (use Boater’s Eye). Is the boat making headway or sternway? If so, adjust the timing of the five steps to reduce the effect of the stronger engine, so the boat stops making way. Repeat the shift (five step sequence) and assess after each shift.

Matching Thrust – Method 2Reduce forward thrust. With engines split, leave the reverse engine in gear. Shift the other engine between forward and neutral, as needed, to hold the boat in place as it pivots. Assess as the boat pivots, to evaluate and prevent headway or sternway.Matching Thrust – Method 3Increase reverse thrust. With engines split, leave both engines in gear. While keeping the forward engine at idle, raise or pulse the reverse engine just enough to prevent headway and pivot in place.

Practice! Use Method 1 first; it’s the slowest, gentlest, and most forgiving option. Have ample room on all sides ofthe boat. If confused, shift both engines into neutral andassess. Move the boat to a more open area if necessary.Warning: In reverse, raising an engine’s throttle too far can put heavy loads on gears. Learn if there is a maximum suggested rpm for your engine when in reverse, and don’t exceed it. Consult the Owner’s Manual.

Notes

31

Splitting Twin Stern-Drives to Turn in Place Calm

Conditions, Method 1Match Thrust Method 1 (Series of shifts)Stopped dead in the water, the boat can be turned in place to point in any direction, using a series of shifts. Use a series ofcounterclockwise or clockwise shifts to turn the boat in the desired direction, then one opposing shift to stop the turn.

In this 4-step diagram, the operator wants to turn 90° to port. The boat could be turned in either direction, counterclockwise or clockwise, but which direction is a much shorter turn? Counterclockwise. So, the operator performs a series of counterclockwise Method 1 shifts, followed by a clockwise Method 1 shift at the end, if needed, to stop the boat’s turn.

Begin practicing this technique in open water, then go to gradually closer quarters, in calm conditions.

1A1B

2B

2A

3A

3B4

32

1AStarting position, facing north. Plan to turn the boat to face west.Begin by performing a counterclockwise Method 1 Shift. (See sequence below) 1BBoth engines are back in neutral. Boat has turned to approximately the positionshown. Check ahead and astern.

2AThe boat has stopped turning. Check ahead and astern. Perform another counterclockwise Method 1 Shift. (See sequence below) Adjust times of reverse and forward, if needed.2BBoth engines are back in neutral. Boat has turned to approximately the positionshown. Check ahead and astern.

3AThe boat has stopped turning. Check ahead and astern. Perform another counterclockwise Method 1 Shift. (See sequence below) Adjust times of reverse and forward, if needed.3BBoth engines are back in neutral. Boat has turned to approximately the positionshown. Check ahead and astern.

4AThe boat has finished the turn and both engines are in neutral. Check ahead and astern.4BPerform a clockwise Method 1 Shift, if needed, to stop the turn.

Method 1 Shift - Counterclockwisesequence (Adapt as needed)

1) Shift port engine into reverse;2) Shift starboard engine into forward;3) Pause 1 second;4) Shift starboard engine into neutral;5) Shift port engine into neutral;6) Assess

Method 1 Shift - Clockwise sequence(Adapt as needed)

1) Shift starboard engine into reverse;2) Shift port engine into forward;3) Pause 1 second;4) Shift port engine into neutral;5) Shift starboard engine into neutral;6) Assess

STEP 1 STEP 2

STEP 3 STEP 4

Splitting Twin Stern-Drives to Turn in Place Calm

Conditions, Method 2Match Thrust Method 2 (Reduce forward thrust)Stopped dead in the water, the boat can be turned in place to point in any desired direction. The boat can be turned counterclockwise or clockwise by splitting the engines using a Method 2 shift to turn the boat in the desired direction, then one brief opposing Method 1 shift to stop the turn.

In this 4-step diagram, the operator wants to turn 90° to starboard. The boat could be turned in either direction, counterclockwise or clockwise, but which direction is a much shorter turn? Clockwise. So, the operator performs a clockwise Method 2 shift, followed by a brief counterclockwise shift at the end, if needed, to stop the boat’s turn.

Begin practicing this technique in open water, then go to gradually closer quarters, in calm conditions.

Counterclockwise Method 1 shift tostop turn:

1) Shift port engine into reverse;2) Shift starboard engine into forward;3) Pause 1 second;4) Shift starboard engine into neutral;

This is the basic pattern for Method 2. The actual time needed in forward gear will vary boat to boat. Adjust the actual

1A 1B 2

3 4

1AStarting position, facing north. Plan to turn the boat to face east.Shift starboard engine into reverse, and keep it in gear. Shift port engine into forward, then neutral, before boat makes headway.1BThe boat begins to turn clockwise. Keep starboard engine in reverse. Shift port engine between forward and neutral, as needed, to hold position.

time spent in forward gear as needed to hold position.

5) Shift port engine into neutral;6) Assess

33

2The boat continues to turn. Assess ahead and astern. Keep starboard engine in reverse. Shift port engine between forward and neutral, as needed, to hold position. Adjust time in forward on port engine, if needed.

3The boat continues to turn. Assess ahead and astern. Keep starboard engine in reverse. Shift port engine between forward and neutral, as needed, to hold position. Adjust time in forward on port engine, if needed.

4The boat has completed the turn. Assess ahead andastern. If needed to stop the turn, shift counterclockwise (Method 1), and then shift both engines into neutral.

STEP 1 STEP 2

STEP 3 STEP 4

Splitting Twin Stern-Drives to Turn in Place Calm

Conditions, Method 3Match Thrust Method 3 (Increase reverse thrust)Stopped dead in the water, the boat can be turned in place to point in any desired direction. The boat can be turned counterclockwise or clockwise by splitting the engines using a Method 3 shift to turn the boat in the desired direction, then one brief opposing Method 1 shift to stop the turn.

In this 4-step diagram, the operator wants to turn 180°. The boat could be turned in either direction, counterclockwise or clockwise, they’re both equal. Here, the operator chooses clockwise and performs a clockwise Method 3 shift, followed by a brief counterclockwise shift at the end, if needed, to stop the boat’s turn.

Begin practicing this technique in open water, then go to gradually closer quarters, in calm conditions.

Counterclockwise Method 1 shift tostop turn:

1) Shift port engine into reverse;2) Shift starboard engine into forward;3) Pause 1 second;4) Shift starboard engine into neutral;5) Shift port engine into neutral;6) Assess

1AStarting position, facing north. Plan to turn the boat to face south.Shift starboard engine into reverse. Shift port engine into forward. Keep both engines in gear. Keep hand on reverse throttle.1BThe boat begins to turn clockwise. Raise the reverse throttle just enough to prevent headway.

2The boat continues to turn. Assess ahead and astern. Adjust reverse throttle, as needed.

3The boat continues to turn. Assess ahead and astern. Adjust reverse throttle, as needed.

4The boat has completed the turn. Assess ahead andastern. If needed to stop the turn, shift counterclockwise (Method 1), and then shift both engines into neutral.

1A1B

2

34

This is the basic pattern for Method 3. The amount of reverse throttle needed will vary boat to boat. Adjust the amount of reverse throttle as needed to hold position.

STEP 1 STEP 2

STEP 3 STEP 4

34

Splitting Twin Stern-Drives to Pivot on a Breast Line

Calm ConditionsSplitting the engines can be used to pivot the boat in place around a piling. You can either push the side of the boat against a piling (see next page), or you can pull the side of the boat away from a breast line, a dockline that goes directly sideways from the boat (see below).

In this 4-step diagram, a breast line is used to pivot the boat in place, by splitting the engines to pull on the dockline.

A

DC

B

AStarting position, the boat is parallel to the pier a few feet away. Choose a target piling (darkened) to land your quarter. Use Method 2 to split the engines (port forward, starboard reverse) to put the stern near the target piling. Shift both engines into neutral.

BRig a short, taut breast line from the stern to the piling.

CWhile the breast line holds the boat in place, use Method 2 to split the engines (port reverse, starboard forward) to pivot the bow toward the pier. Adjust the fenders forward. Shift both engines into neutral.

DSecure the boat.

STEP 1 STEP 2

STEP 3 STEP 4

35

Splitting Twin Stern Drives to Pivot in Place 15-Knot

Wind Across the Pier

In this 3-step diagram, a piling is used to pivot the boat in place, by splitting the engines to push on the piling.

BA

AStarting position, boat is secured to the end of the pier as shown. Protect the boat with a fender at the piling.

STEP 1 STEP 2

STEP 3

D

C

CWhen the wind is directly astern, shift both engines into neutral. Shift both engines into reverse to back up,stern-to-wind.

36

DUpon reaching open water, secure the gear.

BSplit the engines to make a clockwise turn (port forward, starboard reverse). Method 3 (increase reverse thrust) will probably work best for turning in place. Use only enough reverse throttle (starboard engine) to pivot the boat.Continue pivoting until the wind is directly astern.

>

>

The following is a minimum list of knots and hitches thatyou should have proficiency tying.

• Cleat Hitch• Bowline• Round Turn and Two Half-Hitches• Clove Hitch (with Two Half-Hitches)• Sheet Bend

Appendix A – Knots to Know

How to Tie a Cleat Hitch

How to Tie a Bowline

How to Tie a Sheet Bend

How to Tie a Clove Hitch

37

Learning a knot from a diagram is difficult. Learn knots from a skilled instructor and use the following diagrams to assist with knot tying practice.

Much practice is needed to master a knot or hitch. Once you learn a knot, tie it numerous times a day for a couple of weeks, until you can tie it quickly with your eyes closed.

a

b

b

• Around behind

b

a

a

• Up through from under bight

• Back under itself once

• Make a loop

B• Up through and around

back

• Back down through

• Pulled tautA

ab

C

D

• Make figure 8’s aroundthe cleat

a

b

• Around once

• Over and around again

• Under itself

A B

C

a

a

b

b

AB

C

• Flip final loop over andpull taut

Use the Proper KnotA knot or hitch is a solution to a specific task, thus has a specific purpose. Use the best knot for the task at hand.Task: Tie an end to a piling (short term) Knot: Round Turn and Two Half-Hitches Pro:

• Holds very well• Can be cast off under load

Con:• Not adjustable• May slide down the piling• Takes lot of time to tie

Other:• Add a slip in the last half hitch for quicker untying

Task: Tie an end to a piling (long term) Knot: Bowline / Running Bowline Pro:

• Holds very well• Can still be untied after much load

Con:• Can not be untied while under

loadOther:

• Must be slacked to untie from a piling or cleat

Task: Tie the ends of two lines together Knot: Sheet Bend / Double Sheet Bend Pro:

• Holds very well• Can still be untied after much load• Can be used with lines of different diameter

Other:• Do not use a Square Knot which will jam or

loosen• Tie according to relative line diameter (double)

Task: Tie to a cleat Knot: Cleat Hitch Pro:

• Holds very well• Can be cast off under load• Can be tied at any place in the line• Can be easily adjusted and re-tied• Can be used dynamically (to sweat in or pay

out)Con:• Requires a well-placed cleat of adequate

sizeOther:• Must lead fair

• When using a vertically placed cleat the locking hitchmust be on the top horn

Task: Hang a fender on rail or lifeline (long term)Knot: Clove Hitch with Two Half-HitchesPro:

• Holds very well• Can be easily adjusted and re-tied

Other:• Add a slip in the last half hitch for quicker untying

Task: Hang a fender on rail or lifeline (short term)Knot: Clove HitchPro:

• Holds very well• Can be easily adjusted and re-tied

Knots to Know How to Tie a Turn and Two Half-Hitches

b

a

• Under and over itself

• Around once

•Under and over itself again

How to Tie a Round Turn and Two Half-HitchesSame as illustration to the left except go around the objecttwice before adding half-hitches.

b

38

a

• Under and over itself

• Around twice

•Under and over itself again

39

Abeam – Beside the boat, out to one side.

Ahead – In front of the boat.

Aft – Near or at the stern.

Alee – Downwind.

Amidships – The center portion of the boat.

Apparent Wind – A combination of the wind induced by boat motion and the true wind. The wind that is felt on a moving boat.

Assess – Use Boater’s Eye. Evaluate how much room is available and how fast, and where, the boat is drifting.

Astern – Behind the boat.

Backing Wind – Wind whose source is shifting direction and moves counterclockwise.

Bear Off – To steer away from the wind. To turn to leeward. Same as Head Off or Fall Off.

Boater’s Eye – Visually use the relative position of a fixed object and distant background to assess the rate and direction of boat movement, or if stopped.

Calm Conditions – No wind, no waves, and no current.

Cast Off – To loose or unfasten. To undo all mooring lines for departure.

Chop the Throttle – Tap the throttle lever to idle.

Dock – An enclosed water area adjacent to a pier or wharf where a boat can make fast. Often used incorrectly to refer to the pier itself.

Drift – 1) Movement of a boat through the water withoutpropulsion. 2) Speed of current flow.

Fairway – A channel in close quarters.

Fender – A cushioning device hung between a boat and a pier, wharf, or another boat.

Forward – 1) Shift the engine into forward gear (a command of action as used in this course). 2) The direction toward the bow.

Hard-Over – All the way to one side, as with the helm when steering.

Head Off or Fall Off – To steer away from the wind. To turn to leeward. Same as Bear Off.

Head Up - To steer toward the wind. To turn to windward.

Headway – Forward motion of a boat through the water. A boat moving ahead is making headway.

Helm – The boat’s wheel or other steering gear. A boat’ssteering station.

Appendix B – Glossary of Boating Terms and Phrases Knot – Nautical measure of speed much like mile per hour.

Lee Shore – Where the wind will send a drifting object, such as a boat if the engines quit. Land, shallow water, pier, or other solid object directly downwind of the boat’s position.

Lee of the Land – Sheltered area just downwind of a land mass where the land blocks or partially blocks the wind and waves.

Leeward – Downwind. The direction toward which the wind blows.

Leeway – The downwind drift of a boat through the water. Sideways drift of a boat caused by the wind.

Neutral – Engine(s) out of gear and at idle. In this course, used as a command to shift the boat out of gear.

Pier – A floating or fixed platform used as a landing placefor boats. Often incorrectly referred to as a dock.

Piling – A wood, concrete, or metal pole, used as a support for a pier, or for mooring.

Pulse a Throttle – A brief, controlled increase in engine rpm and back to idle to provide a momentary burst of power.

Prop Walk – A sideways force at the stern caused by the spin of the propeller.

Prop Wash – The surge of water and thrust of power from a spinning propeller.

Quarter – The side of the boat, from amidships to the stern. Used to identify a dockline such as a quarter spring line.

Raise a Throttle – Increasing throttle to a desired level of rpm (revolutions per minute) and holding it there for a set period of time, or until a maneuver is complete.

Reverse – Shift the engine into reverse gear (a command of action as used in this course).

Slip – A berth for a boat between two piers or pilings.

Starting Position – Boat is stopped dead in the water, engine(s) in neutral at idle rpm, wheel is centered.

Secure the Boat – Set and adjust fenders and docklines,center the wheel, and cut the engine(s).

Secure the Gear – Retrieve and stow fenders and docklines.

Splitting Engines – Using twin engines, one in forward gear and one in reverse gear, at the same time.

Sternway – Backward motion of a boat through the water. A boat backing up is making sternway.

40

Glossary of Boating Terms and Phrases Turning Circle – The smallest possible circle a boat can steer when the helm is hard-over.

Veering Wind - Wind whose source is shifting direction and moves clockwise.

Weathervane Effect – The tendency of the bow of a drifting boat to turn to point downwind.

Wind Shadow – Location where a physical object partially blocks the wind. The wind may swirl in the reverse direction (eddy) downwind of the object.

Windward – Upwind. The direction from which the wind blows. Toward the source of the wind.

Current Terms

Drift – The speed of current flow.

Ebb – A tidal current flowing toward the sea.

Flood – An incoming tidal current.

Set – The direction of current flow.

Slack – Short interval between ebb and flood tidal current.

Tide Terms

High Tide – The highest water level reached as a result of tidal action.

Low Tide – The lowest water level reached as a result of tidal action.

Neap Tide – A period when tidal range is less due to the alignment of the sun and moon.

Range – Height difference between high and low tides.

Spring Tide – A period when tidal range is greater due to the alignment of the sun and moon.

Stand – Short interval between rise and fall of the tide when vertical change in water level has stopped.

Wind Terms

Backing Wind – Wind whose source is shifting and moves counterclockwise.

Downwind – To leeward.

Gust – A sudden strong increase in wind speed.

Leeward – Downwind. The direction toward which the wind blows.

Lull – A decrease in wind speed.

Puff – A moderate increase in wind speed.

Upwind – To windward.

Veering Wind – Wind whose source is shifting and moves clockwise.

Wind Shadow – Location where a physical object partially blocks the wind. The wind may swirl in the reverse direction (eddy) downwind of the object.

Windward – Upwind. The direction from which the wind blows. Toward the source of the wind.

Docking Lines

Bow Line – Attached to a forward boat cleat and run well forward along the pier, to prevent the boat from moving astern.

Breast Line – Secured to a boat cleat and run to the pier at nearly a right angle to both the boat and pier. Used to keep a boat close to the pier, such as when boarding.

Out-and-Back Dockline – A short dockline leading out from the boat to a pier or piling and back to the boat.

Stern Line – Attached to a rear (after) boat cleat and run well astern along the pier, to prevent the boat from going ahead.

Spring Line – Spring lines are used to keep a boat in position where there is significant rise and fall of tide. There are four different spring lines; forward bow spring, after bow spring, forward quarter spring, and after quarter spring. Bow springs are attached to the boat at or near the bow; quarter springs are attached to the boat at or near the stern. Forward springs lead well forward from the boat attachment to the pier, and prevent the boat from moving astern. After springs lead well aft from the boat attachment to the pier, and prevent the boat from going ahead.

Appendix C – Slip Docking and Departing Worksheet

Basic Rules of Boat Handling in WindRule 1: Wind on the port side ferries a boat tostarboard.Rule 2: Wind on the starboard side ferries a boat to port.Rule 3: To hold position in close quarters, lie stern-to-wind.Rule 4: In close quarters, do NOT try to turnthe bow into the wind.

Cut these shapes out and use them in the diagram to create and enact various docking and departing scenarios.

X

CURRENT

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Basic Rules of Boat Handling in WindRule 1: Wind on the port side ferries a boat to starboard.

Rule 2: Wind on the starboard side ferries a boat to port.

Rule 3: To hold position in close quarters, lie stern-to-wind.

Rule 4: In close quarters, do NOT try to turn the bow into the wind.

Activities for Docking/Departing Worksheet DepartingPretend that yours is the boat marked with the “X,” and you’re ready to depart. How do you do it?

Calm Conditions• Starting Position. Retrieve stern lines, aft spring lines,

and fenders.

• Forward, stop when you can retrieve bow lines.

• Forward 1 second, repeat as needed, until the sternclears the bow pilings by a few feet.

• Wheel left, starboard reverse; neutral; wheel right, port forward, neutral. Repeat as needed to turn the boat tightly to face open water.

• Center the wheel, forward. You’re now on the wheel; sostay in gear, and steer out the center of the fairway.

10-Knot Wind Across the FairwayIf a 10-knot wind is blowing straight into the slip, the simplest thing to do is leave the slip, aiming so that the wind is on the side that helps you turn the boat toward open water. Once you’re clear of the slip, get into the upwind side of the fairway, storing gear, and steer with the wheel.

Review Rules 1 and 2. If the wind is blowing straight out of the slip, once you’re clear of the slip, the simplest thing is to use Rule 1 or 2, unless you’re absolutely sure you have enough room to turn the bow into the wind and go forward out the upwind side because, if you are wrong, something expensive will break, someone may get hurt, and you will learn a very hard lesson.

10-Knot Wind Along the FairwayIf a 10-knot wind is blowing along the fairway, the simplest thing to do is slide along the downwind piling as you leave the slip, reach mid-fairway, and put your stern into the wind.

If the stern is facing open water, back the boat upwind, to open water; recall Rule 4, and do not test it. If the bow is facing open water, simply go forward. Stay in gear, and steer with the wheel.

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DockingPrepare all lines and fenders in open water before reaching the fairway. When you dock in a slip, do you want your stern or your bow next to the pier? Most people prefer to be stern-to, if practical, so they can more easily get on and off the boat.

You want to dock your boat in one of the empty slips on the previous page. How do you do it? First, have fenders ready to place, with docklines cleated off and ready to go.

Calm Conditions• Coast in neutral up the middle.

• Stop the boat outside the slip.

• Using reverse first, make a tight turn outside the slip.

• Go part way into the slip, stop, and set up docklines onthe outside pilings, while they are easy to reach.

• Go the rest of the way into the slip, and stop the boat.

• Secure the boat.

10-Knot Wind Across the FairwayWith a 10-knot wind blowing across the fairway, approach on the upwind side, stop outside the slip, and pull your stern up into the wind.

If it is blowing straight into the slip, the simplest thing to do is go in forward and dock bow-in.

If it is blowing straight out of the slip, the simplest thing to do is back upwind, and dock stern-in.

10-Knot Wind Along the FairwayWind astern means that, when you stop the boat and turn,the wind will send you toward your slip. See Rules 1 and 2. Choose a slip with a finger pier on its lee side, if possible.

Going up the fairway with the wind astern, don’t even think of docking bow-in. The simplest thing to do is stop the boat outside (and a bit upwind of) the slip, turn the stern slightly toward the slip, and hold position as the wind slowly lays the boat against both outside pilings.Have fenders in place, and get a dockline on each. Have your crew hold the other ends, keeping the lines out of the water. They will become your bowlines. Now, drift downwind until your stern is clear of the upwind piling, and pivot around the downwind piling, while your crew walks forward with the docklines. (Suspend the two-second rule, when pivoting around a piling.) Once you are in far enough to be cradled among four pilings, the hard work is done, since you control the bow.Going up the fairway with the wind ahead, stop the boat upwind of the slip, and turn around in place (The wind will help you.) With the wind astern, apply the rules in the paragraph above.

Activities for Docking/Departing Worksheet

©2010 National Safe Boating Council