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I N D O O R G A R D E N I N G
USA
FREE
USA
FREE
monitor recordadjust
bringing precisionto the grow room
GardeninGexpo
indoor
2010montrealQuebec, canada June
5-6
MA
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YIE
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- February 2010m
aximum
yield.com
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From the Editor
Letters to the Editor
MaximumYield.com
Ask Erik
MAX Facts
Product Spotlight
Beginner’s Corner
Tips and Tricks
You Tell Us
Green Thumb Gardening
Do You Know?
Talking Shop
Avant-Gardening
Max Mart
Coming up in March
Distributors
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FEATURES
DEPARTMENTS
february 2010CONTENTS
Moisture Mattersby Dr. Lynette Morgan
Monitor, Record, Adjust: Conductivity in Hydroponics (Part I)by Andrew Taylor
Successful Cymbidium Growing for the Amateur Enthusiast by Scott Barrie
Next Generation of LEDs Part I: The Diodes Strike Backby Erik Biksa
10 Steps to Gardening with Nature Part IIby Dr. Carole Ann Rollins and Dr. Elaine Ingham
Worm Power! From Waste to Worthwhile by Emma Cooper
Precise and Stable: CO2 Concentration in the Gardenby Isabelle Lemay, agr. and Mélissa Léveillé
Plants Have No Teeth...or Do They? A Few Points about Carbon Fertilizationby Peter Vakomies
Grow Your Own Wheat Grass Indoorsby Matt LeBannister
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10 MAXIMUM YIELD USA - February 2010
FROM THEeditor jessica raymond
contributors
Dr. Elaine Ingham is president of Soil Foodweb Inc., an international laboratory system that assesses beneficial balance in materials. The major emphasis of her work is to return health to soil, so that natural nutrient cycling and disease suppression mechanisms are present. Contact 1-541-752-5066, [email protected], www.soilfoodweb.com
Dr. Carole Ann Rollins co-owns Nature Technologies International LLC, producers of organic alternatives. She co-authored Adding Biology for Soil and Hydroponic Systems and has compiled and edited The Field Guide I and II for Actively Aerated Compost Tea. Contact 1-415-898-5895, [email protected], www.nature-technologies.com
Jessica Raymond, [email protected]
Isabelle Lemay is in charge of the technical support, customer service and research and development at Nova Biomatique Inc. (www.igrowing.com), makers of the PLUG’N’GROW climate controllers. She is an agronomist and holds a master’s degree in soil and environment studies, with a specialization in greenhouse production.
Mélissa Léveillé holds a license in communication, writing and multimedia. She is the newest member of the Nova Biomatique Inc. Team (www.igrowing.com), makers of the PLUG’N’GROW climate controllers. She is responsible for Nova Biomatique Inc.’s communications.
Peter Vakomies, BSc, has 17 years experience as a professional silviculture grower, vegetable grower and horticulturist. He graduated from Simon Fraser University where he studied photosynthesis in nursery and field settings. Living and working in British Columbia, Canada, Peter participated in growing over 550 million tree seedlings for reforestation programs.
Andrew Taylor is the manager of Flairform (www.flairform.com) – an Australian-based manufacturing company. As an analytical chemist with qualifications in plant function and nutrition, he has over 13 years experience in product research and development, and also writes extensively on hydroponic growing techniques.
Matt LeBannister developed a green thumb as a child, having been born into a family of experienced gardeners. During his career, he has managed a hydroponic retail store and represented leading companies at the Indoor Gardening Expos. Matt has been writing articles for Maximum Yield since 2007. His articles are published around the world.
Dr. Lynette Morgan holds a B. Hort. Tech. degree and a PhD in hydroponic greenhouse production from Massey University, New Zealand. Lynette is a partner with SUNTEC International Hydroponic Consultants and has authored five hydroponic technical books. Visit www.suntec.co.nz/consultants.htm and www.suntec.co.nz/books.htm for more information.
Erik Biksa holds a diploma in agriculture with majors in fertilizer sciences and crop production. Erik has amassed over 18 years of indoor gardening experience and intensive research. Since first appearing in Maximum Yield in 1999, the “Ask Erik” column and numerous articles have reached growers throughout the world.
Become a Maximum Yield contributor and have your articles read by 250,000 readers throughout USA, Canada, UK and Australia. Maximum Yield is the largest free-to-consumer indoor gardening magazine in the world. Every issue is available on maximumyield.com, which has thousands of unique visitors monthly.
Glory Lennon’s four acre lot includes an arboretum, a thriving koy pond with water lilies, two greenhouses and an orchard. She writes a garden column for a local paper and contributes to several on-line gardening websites and now Maximum Yield. Visit www.helium.com, www.greenthumbarticles.com and www.myspace.com/glorygarden
Scott Barrie co-owns Barrita Orchids, a specialist orchid nursery located in New South Wales, Australia. As well as producing thousands of plant and flowers each year, Scott is a highly successful show producer, orchid lecturer and author of articles designed to introduce the public to the world of orchids.
From the newest technologies in LEDs to the basics of “worm power,” this issue has it all to boost your indoor garden power. Some of our favorite writing experts delve into the importance of moisture control and the need to monitor, record and adjust conductivity in the grow room. Add this to
the 25+ new products, and you have the tools to make it grow. Upon reading this information-packed issue, be sure to visit
facebook.com/MaximumYield and follow along with the discussions about growing, share your thoughts or just say hi.
As your plants thrive and bloom, take the time to snap a few photos and send them to Maximum Yield to be entered in our photo cover contest, “Behind the Lens,” (details on pg. 111). Five images will be chosen for publication on the covers of Maximum
Yield USA, Canada, French Canada, UK and Australia, and one of them could be yours.
Only two weeks remain in the current Win Big, Grow Big contest. Enter as often as you
wish for your chance to win one of four amazing prizes. See page 121 for prizes and contest details. You could be one of our next happy winners.
12 MAXIMUM YIELD USA - February 2010
Simply GlowingI just wanted to start off by saying how much I appreciate Maximum Yield’s generosity.
I’m totally excited to check out the Ushio bulbs I won in the Win Big…Grow Big contest, and my students will be too. I am an agriculture instructor at Blaker Kinser Junior High in Ceres, California, and twice a month we hold free hydroponic classes, open to the public, on everything from nutrients to building complete hydro set-ups.
This week the students are attempting to build a DIY ebb-n-grow set-up for our indoor grow room. The room so far only has one 1000 watt HPS light and a simple flood and drain table due to budget cuts within our district. If I don’t pay for it then no one gets to have hands on experience.
Again thank you from the bottom of our hearts. The students and I are deeply appreciative.
David Tigner
Ceres Ca
Review and PraiseMy name is JC Gray and I live in St. Augustine, Florida. I recently picked up an issue of MY at a local shop. At first glance I assumed it was a catalogue or just a magazine filled with products for sale. I soon discovered that everything in your publication is very educational and informative.
I found Bob Taylor’s “Ventilation Basics” very helpful. The tips he provides are an excellent blueprint for anybody working with any system to start from. I just wanted to say thanks for providing a resource filled with good nuggets!
Thank you for your time, and again, excellent mag. Hope all is well at the MY headquarters.
Much respect
JC Gray
LETTERS TOthe editor
Maximum Yield reserves the right to edit for brevity.
We want to hear from you!Write us at:Maximum Yield Publications Inc.2339A Delinea Place, Nanaimo, BC V9T 5L9or Email us at: [email protected]
"Everything in your publication is very educational and
informative."
Click and Share ItI noticed with the past several issues of Maximum Yield a funky new look to your covers and the graphics used inside the magazine. I have some great shots from my indoor gardens that would work well on the cover or in your magazine and would be interested in submitting them for publication.
Fred Dunn
We encourage you to submit your high quality photographs for our first ever, reader-submitted cover contest – Behind the Lens. This contest is open to everyone until June 1, 2010. Five winning photos will be chosen and published on the covers of Maximum Yield USA, Canada, French Canada, UK and Australia. Please see our ad on page 111 for more information or visit maximumyield.com for full contest rules regulations.
Lighting The FutureI just wanted to get some feedback on LED grow lights. Please e-mail me back any links or information. I want to know if what believers’ claim is true.
Josh Adams
You’ve come to the right place for answers. As LEDs are constantly evolving, we asked our resident expert Erik Biksa to detail this hyped up technology in his latest article, Next Generation LEDs: The Diodes Strike Back, on page 74. His three-part series examines first-generation LEDs and upgrades in technology available in this lighting option today. You may also wish to stop by Facebook.com/MaximumYield and join in on the LED Debate with hundreds of other MY fans.
Giant AmbitionsPhil Hunt here, past president of the Giant Vegetable Growers of Ontario (GVGO). I’m a fan of MY and use it to find information that other growers don’t know about. I really enjoyed reading Brian Mack’s article, Beneficial Soil Microbes (USA December ‘09). I feel it could help us reach our goal of growing a new WR giant pumpkin. What I would like to do is reprint this for our club’s newsletter in February? Would this be possible?
My wife Jane and I are the Canadian record holders of giant pumpkins, just missing the WR by less than 50. We hope to see that happen next year. We also grow giant cabbages and held the Canadian record for watermelons a couple years back.
We look forward to hearing from you. We wish you all the
best in 2010.
Take care and thanks again.
Philip and Jane Hunt
ON
I N D O O R G A R D E N I N G
"I’m totally excited and my students will be too."
14 MAXIMUM YIELD USA - February 2010
PRESIDENT/PUBLISHER - Jim Jesson
GENERAL MANAGER - Don Moores
BUSINESS MANAGER - Linda Jesson
SALES DIRECTOR - Lisa Lambersek
EDITOR - Jessica Raymond [email protected]
ADVERTISING SALES 250.729.2677
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ACCOUNTING - Lee Anne [email protected]
USA DISTRIBUTIONAurora Innovations
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I N D O O R G A R D E N I N G
VOLUME 10 – NUMBER 11 February 2010
Maximum Yield is published monthly byMaximum Yield Publications Inc.
2339A Delinea Place, Nanaimo, BC V9T 5L9Phone: 250.729.2677; Fax 250.729.2687
No part of this magazine may be reproducedwithout permission from the publisher.
If undeliverable please return to the address above.
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Tell us what you think at [email protected]. We’d love to hear from you.
Coming upon the Web
online extrasIn addition to the helpful articles from our world-renowned contributors, Maximum Yield provides even more tips and advice on maximumyield.com. Click Inside MY.com for online extras, exclusive to MY readers.
hot neW produCtsEvery week maximumyield.com updates the Featured Products section to reflect our ever-expanding industry. Discover the products that will help your indoor garden grow, and visit often for new products all month long.
ContestsPrizes and prestige could be yours with Maximum Yield contests. Enter our Win Big…Grow Big online reader contest for your chance to win four new prizes every second month. Plus, get your photograph displayed on the cover of Maximum Yield by entering “Behind the Lens.” No purchase necessary. The next winner could be you, so enter online today.
Maximum Yield magazine is available for free online at maximumyield.com. February featured topics include conductivity, organic gardening, LEDs, CO2 and more. Check it out!
FeATuReS
18 MAXIMUM YIELD USA - February 2010
Do you have a question for Erik? Forward it to [email protected] with the words “Ask Erik” in the subject line, and your answer will be printed in an upcoming edition.
ASKerik
MY
In Australian winter, you stand a much better chance of harvesting some nice fruits, provided the roots of the crop don’t get too cold. It’s usually much easier and less expensive to heat nutrient solutions versus cooling them. When temperatures in the reservoir get over 90°F, cropping trouble usually isn’t too far behind.Although tomatoes can be grown successfully in NFT
(Nutrient Film Technique), the shallow troughs are better suited for crops with smaller root systems and fast cropping times, like lettuce for example. If you are a die-hard fan of NFT, you might continue using the system with a few modifications, including the bio-filter, provided the system and bio-filter are inoculated with beneficial microbes such as trichoderma and bacillus species. The goal here is to colonize the system with beneficial microbes, leaving no room for pythium to thrive.During the summer months, a reservoir chiller or titanium/
stainless steel cooling coils in the nutrient solution are recommended to help moderate reservoir temperatures. However, because there is not a lot of solution typically around the roots in NFT, the high temperatures will still have negative effects because the thin film of chilled solution will not be able to buffer temperatures sufficiently.Insulating the troughs and chilling the solution would help
keep root temperatures more reasonable. I don’t recommend cycling the nutrient. The nutrient solution in most NFT systems is relatively static. It should be kept moving constantly to keep it aerated and to keep the roots protected, as the film of
solution is the only thing standing between naked plant roots and environmental extremes.
In very large commercial NFT systems, when the pump stops, the reservoir
can overfill because so much
Good Day Erik,I just read your article about pythium, a problem I have been struggling with. My tomato crop
for the last three years was wiped out and I have not had enough tomatoes to make sauce. This year, I threw out all my perlite troughs and switched to NFT. In desperation I am trying a bio-filter. I have been using the NFT for a few weeks now on a timer system of 15 minutes (on) and 45 minutes (off). Also, last summer we had 15 days of over 100°F in a row, (I reside in Adelaide, South Australia), which did not help, and the temperature of the nutrient was over 90°F, far from ideal.
RegardsLaurie
solution is being circulated and contained in so many lengths of NFT troughs relative to the holding capacity of the reservoir.If you are willing to try something new, I would recommend
growing in a “DFT” system. This Deep Flow Technique works similarly to NFT, except there is a much larger chamber for roots and the depth of the solution is much greater, effectively buffering bare rooted hydroponic plants for extremes in nutrients or the environment. Essentially, for each large plant, there is about two gallons of nutrient solution. A popular brand of hydroponics system uses this principle with NFT type tubes; however, there is an adjustable overflow in each of the tubes, allowing for larger amounts of nutrient solution to surround the plant roots. For your applications, something along these lines may work out better than the thin film of nutrients that NFT systems provide. DFT systems use much higher flow and circulation rates than NFT systems, helping to saturate DO (dissolved oxygen) levels in the nutrient solution, reducing the incidence of pythium. You can construct your own DFT system out of any large sized troughs that are opaque and chemically inert, so long as you can include an adjustable overflow (to control the depth of the solution) and have a nutrient injection manifold running the length of the troughs to keep the roots and solution will aerated. If you build your own, you can insulate the troughs to keep the roots warmer in the winter and cooler in the summer.Another suggestion is to only select tomato cultivars that are
documented to have a natural resistance to root pathogens such as pythium. Note that some varieties of tomato seeds will be much better suited to hydroponic cultivation versus others. Check with reputable commercial seed suppliers. Inoculating young plants with beneficial microbial solutions will also help to prevent the incidence of root diseases, and should be re-applied several times throughout the life of the crop to ensure optimal populations of beneficial root life and maintain a healthy life balance in your bio-filter.I hope this helps you out, and send us some pictures of your
winter tomatoes.
Cheers, Erik Biksa
22 MAXIMUM YIELD USA - February 2010
hydroponic news, tips and triviaMAXfacts
On behalf of our valued wholesalers for 2009, Technaflora Plant Products Ltd. was proud to make a charitable donation to the Dr. Jay Charitable Foundation. The Dr. Jay Charitable Foundation's mission is to respond to the needs of children living with cancer and to help families fight cancer with dignity and determination. The Foundation provides ongoing funding for pediatric palliative care. You can learn about the Foundation by visiting their website at www.drjayfoundation.com
We would like to thank the following wholesalers for their dedication and continued support:
Canadian Distributors: Eddi’s Wholesale Garden Supplies, Megawatt HydroCulture and Stellar Wholesale Inc.
American Distributors: BGWS, Hydrofarm Inc., Micro Hydroponics, Sunlight Supply, Inc. and R & M Supply
International Distributors: Pachamama Indoor Farming Culture and Planeta Organico
Dr. Jay Charitable FoundationMachines May Replace Humans to Inspect and Sort Strawberry Plants
Researchers at Michigan State University studied green roofs and found that one plot had the capacity to store 375 grams of CO2 per three square feet. Although this number is not particularly high, green roofs transform traditional roofs, essentially wastelands with no carbon storage, into carbon-sequestration sites.Through the University's Green Roof Research Program,
10 existing green roofs plus 20 three-foot square plots planted by the team were studied over a two year period. On average the plants’ leafy parts stored 168 grams of carbon per three foot squared; the roots and the soil respectively stored 160 and 300 grams.They calculated that if all of the roofs in Detroit were
green instead of black, it would offset the carbon dioxide emitted by 10,000 SUVs.(Source: www.miller-mccune.com)
Green Roofs Suck CO2
Firehall in Whistler, BC Canada
A plant-sorting machine that uses computer vision and machine learning has been developed to inspect and grade harvested strawberry plants and then mechanically sort them by quality. Until now, these tasks could only be done manually.In field tests, the machine classified and sorted harvested
plants more consistently and faster than workers could, with a comparable error rate. During the fall harvest season, strawberry plant nursery farms use manual labor to sort several hundred million strawberry plants into good and bad categories, a tedious and costly process.The machine will help farms improve quality, streamline
production and deliver better plants to berry growers. The machine was tested under realistic conditions, where rain and frost change plants’ appearance, and roots may contain mud and debris. On average it sorted 5,000 plants per hour, several times faster than human sorting. The final system could be able to achieve sorting rates of 20,000-30,000 plants per hour.(Source: www.sciencedaily.com)
The 2010 Montreal Indoor Gardening is set for June 5-6 at the funky and fabulous Palais des congrès de Montréal. With the industry still talking about the 2008 event in Montreal, we know you will enjoy all we have to offer. Ongoing updates will be made to indoorgardenexpo.com so stay tuned for exhibitor listings, venue directions and more.And don’t forget about the 7th Annual San Francisco
Indoor Gardening Expo set for July 24-25, 2010. Mark your calendars now for the biggest and best industry event, seven years running. As always, we look forward to seeing you there.
2010 North American Indoor Gardening expo Tour
24 MAXIMUM YIELD USA - February 2010
hydroponic news, tips and triviaMAXfacts
Vermicomposting with Pig Manure?
Progress Earth, wholesalers/distributors of biodynamic and cutting edge products, recently attended the ACRES Conference in St. Paul, Minnesota. Here are some of the highlights, according to them, from that conference:
• There are 8.6 million cases of food poisoning in the US every year.
• $800 billion of the $2.5 trillion that the US spends on health care each year is attributable to junk food and chemical farming.
• 80 per cent of cancers are attributable to diet and environmental toxins.
• $90-100 billion each year is given by our government as subsidies to Big Ag and chemical farming.
• 85 per cent of available fresh water is used by industrial agriculture.
Progress Earth (www.progressearth.com) works with selected retailers and farmers in gardening and wellness divisions that seek to deliver a message of balance in human endeavors. Visit www.acresusa.com for more information about the ACRES organization.
2009 ACReS Conference Highlights
Researchers recently experimenting with pine bark amended with vermicompost derived from pig manure found that this organic alternative could produce healthy hibiscus. Reported benefits include greater plant growth and flower production, improved water use efficiency and sufficient levels of some plant-available nutrients.The purpose of the study was to determine if
conventional nursery crop inputs could be replaced by commercially available vermicompost for hibiscus production.The research established that the vermicompost
treatment did not supply potassium equivalent to conventional controlled release fertilizers.All treatments used equivalent volumes of water.
The study suggests that dolomitic lime, sulfated micronutrients and phosphorous can be eliminated as substrate additives for hibiscus production.
(Source: www.sciencedaily.com)
26 MAXIMUM YIELD USA - February 2010
Third “International Conference & exhibition on Soilless Culture” (Singapore)
hydroponic news, tips and triviaMAXfacts
The Third “International Conference & Exhibition on Soilless Culture – 2010” (ICESC-2010), will take place in Singapore March 8-13, 2010, with plans to host 500-800 researchers, growers and crop advisors from more than 60 countries. Also invited are serious health-conscious consumers, educators, suppliers, food processors, environmentalists, policy makers, property developers of eco-homes, potential investors and all environment-conscious people involved in “sustainable” food networks in one way or another.The theme of this event is “Futuristic Environment-Friendly
& Sustainable Farming Technologies for Growing Any Plants Anywhere” through hydroponics, organics and aquaponics.The aim of this event is to create awareness, exchange
information and foster collaboration amongst the participants on the importance of soilless culture (hydroponics and organic farming techniques) in growing plants for food, ornamental, medicinal and industrial purposes. Please visit www.icesc-2010.com to learn more. This event is sponsored by the International Society for Horticultural Science (ISHS).
Monique Capanelli, an artist from Austin, Texas, has found a way to combine her love of plants and the arts into a sustainable landscape outfit, Articulture Designs. Monique started Articulture one year ago and she is constantly surprised by the inspiration plants provide.Monique houses different plants in
unique frames, ‘painting’ patterns and scenes by using different plant sizes, colors and textures. She generally chooses hardy succulents in her work, which do well in the extreme weather found in Austin.Her pieces are built to live and grow, so
long as the light and water requirements are met. Having been raised growing an organic garden, Monique has been a lover of plants since she was a child. The vegetables her family grew supplied food for their Sonoma Valley restaurant.Her living works of art are easily cared for and can be
placed inside or out.(Source: http://planetgreen.discovery.com)
Living Art
ISHS
28 MAXIMUM YIELD USA - February 2010
hydroponic news, tips and triviaMAXfacts
GM Protection for Soybeans
Time Magazine has named Valcent one of the top 50 Best Innovators of 2009 for their vertical farming technology, VertiCrop. Vertical farming is part of a new era of urban agriculture that involves upward growing instead of outward, allowing for the expansion of food supplies without using more land.Developed in Valcent’s El Paso, Texas research facility, the VertiCrop system has plants on a
rotational device, which gives them the precise amount of light and nutrients they need, while using less water than conventional farming systems. VertiCrop can support vegetable, herb, fruit and flower producers.VertiCrop is being employed in controlled glasshouses, polytunnels and warehouses,
increasing production volume for field crops up to 20 times over. VertiCrop provides nutritionally superior products grown locally that are healthier for people and animals.(Source: www.cityfarmer.info)
Vertical Growing for the Future
Due to what has become an annual outbreak of soybean aphids in Iowa, researchers are examining a new insecticide-free method of control. An in-plant protection courtesy of genetic modification will prevent aphids from damaging the soybeans.Estimated losses of soybeans due to aphid outbreaks could exceed $250 million in Iowa, according to previous
research. The annual cost to prevent the yield loss with insecticides can reach $64 million for Iowa soybean growers.The gene researchers are planning on introducing into soybeans is harmless to mammals,
but creates toxin that is lethal to aphids that feed on soybean plants.(Source: www.sciencedaily.com)
Vertical Growing for the Future
30 MAXIMUM YIELD USA - February 2010
hydroponic news, tips and triviaMAXfacts
MY
By replicating the effects of climate change, scientists are hoping they can discover what the future holds for soybeans, wheat and the soils where they grow. Studies show that increased levels of carbon dioxide
Replicating Climate Change to Forecast its effects
assist with plant growth by giving plants more food. However, those same plants are damaged and stunted by elevated levels of ozone. Levels of both gases are expected to rise as the climate warms.
Researchers are exposing wheat and soybeans to the levels of carbon dioxide and ozone that may be reached by 2050. By that time, carbon dioxide levels may be about 1.5 times greater than the current 380 parts per million, and daytime ozone levels in the summer, now at about 50 to 55 parts per billion, may rise 20 per cent. The goal of the study is to assess the effects of climate change on growth rates, crop yields and soil chemistry.Preliminary results show just slightly
higher levels of soil carbon. Elevating carbon dioxide also reduced flour protein levels in wheat by seven to 11 per cent, but soybean protein concentrations were maintained because of soybeans' ability to acquire nitrogen from the air.(Source: www.ars.usda.gov)
Soybean farm
34 MAXIMUM YIELD USA - February 2010
Vital earth’s® Glacial Rock DustGlacial Rock Dust is a natural mineral product produced over thousands of years. The rocks are pulverized by the expansion/contraction action of the glacier leaving behind deposits of “glacial moraine.” These deposits are mined, dried and screened for re-mineralization.
Vital Earth’s® Glacial Rock Dust can replace key elements in the soil, increasing soil vitality and helping to produce healthier plants. Our Glacial Dust lets the soil recreate the colloids (minerals and humus), which are needed to improve soil structure, moisture holding properties, nutrient availability and bacterial action.
Advantages:• increases phosphorus availability• provides an excellent source of calcium, iron, magnesium and potassium, plus trace elements and micronutrients
• increases moisture holding properties in the soil• improves the cation exchange capacity• improves soil structure and drainage
For more information on Glacial Rock Dust visit an indoor grow shop near you.
House & Garden MultiZymeHouse & Garden MultiZyme is an extremely useful growth stimulator that accelerates and simplifies the growth process and strengthens the plant’s immunity. The enzymes convert the nutrient into ready-to-use bits making it easy to assimilate by the plant.MultiZyme is a collective term for a wide range of useful enzymes, which are very
important for plant processes and processes in the environment. They are small catalysts that trigger these processes and keep them running. There are enzymes that help to convert the plant’s nutrients, strengthen plants’ immune systems and help to dispose of residuals in the substrate.Use MultiZyme during the first three weeks of flowering. MultiZyme is available now
at your local hydro shop.
PRODUCTspotlightSee it. Want it. Find it. at your local indoor gardening store.
The BioExtractor Bag™ is a simple, effective and economical tool for growers of all levels of experience that produces Instant Compost Tea and liquid fertilizer using any clean container. When using high quality compost to make Instant Compost Tea, a brewer is not required. Simply fill the bag with your favorite dry soil ingredients, extract them through the bag, apply and produce!
Features:• mesh size optimized for microbial extraction• durable nylon construction and stitching• easy-to-use roll top enclosure design• clip-in loop and buckle for easy handling• laminated instruction and recipe card
Benefits of Instant Compost Tea:• increases yield, fruit and flower quality• fixes and prevents nutrient salt build-up• protects from foliar and root diseases• reduces water and fertilizer consumption• Never any risk of making a “bad tea”
Grow more, pay less – naturally. Learn more at your local hydroponic retail store.
BioLogic Systems Presents the Bioextractor Bag™
36 MAXIMUM YIELD USA - February 2010
Vital earth’s® All Purpose Organic Potting SoilFor use in containers, raised beds, landscaping and gardens. Vital Earth’s Organic Potting Soil is alive with microbial organisms crucial for optimum nutrient uptake. Vital Earth’s Potting Soil is comprised of sphagnum peat moss, earthworm bedding (vertimulch), Vital Earth’s Compost (OMRI), which is 39 per cent humus, 1.4-.08-1.2 NPK, Mega Worm 100 per cent worm castings (NOP), Vital Earth’s High Phos Bat Guano, Glacial Rock powder (NOP) and endo/ectomycorrhical (OMRI). Ideal for planting of fruit and flowering trees, shrubs and vegetables. Available in one cubic foot bag and two yard totes. For more information on Organic Potting Soil visit your nearest indoor gardening shop.
Straightforward and Simple - Sunleaves BallastsIf you’re looking for reliable results from your HID lighting, look no further than the new Sunleaves Ballasts! The straightforward name highlights their easy operation, with headache-eliminating features like the common outlet and 120/240 dual-voltage capabilities. Choose from 400 and 1000 watt two-way (high pressure sodium and metal halide functionality in one ballast) and 600 and 1000 watt HPS options, all of which include a 120 volt power cord and a five-year manufacturer’s warranty. Ask for Sunleaves Ballasts today at your local indoor gardening retail store.
PRODUCTspotlight at your favorite indoor gardening store.See it. Want it. Find it.
38 MAXIMUM YIELD USA - February 2010
Non-Dangerous pH up and Down by Flairform - Now AvailablepH Up and Down have traditionally been the most dangerous chemicals in the hydroponic industry. Flairform’s non-corrosive pH Up and Down provide the first and most effective alternative to this problem.
• Equivalent working strength to most corrosive formulations.• Safer to use.• Easier to use: overdosing won’t drive pH to extremes; great for novice growers!• More environmentally friendly.• Simplifies freight and storage - transport by air, road or sea is unregulated.
Why trust a backyard chemist? Flairform: Analytical Chemists and Horticultural Consultants Since 1966. Contact your local hydro store to learn more about this revolutionary product.
Introducing the CSA Certified THP207When your greenhouse has a power outage, hours can mean the difference between a healthy crop and one that does not make it to harvest. To be alerted to a power outage, the THP207 is your answer. When the power fails, the THP207 will emit a pulsating 86dB alarm and illuminate three LEDs to provide safety lighting. The THP207 can be removed from the 120 volt electrical outlet and used as a flashlight. A three position switch turns off the alarm and turns on the LEDs. The internal NiMh battery will maintain the LEDs for up to eight hours. To alert you, just plug the THP207 into a nearby receptacle while you are sleeping. Anywhere you have an electrical outlet and power failure is a concern, you should consider having a THP207 plugged in. It is CSA certified and economically priced. Ask your local indoor gardening store to carry the THP207.
PRODUCTspotlight at your favorite indoor gardening store.See it. Want it. Find it.
40 MAXIMUM YIELD USA - February 2010
Two Foot Grow Light FixtureThis two foot grow light fixture from Hydrofarm features light and durable all steel housing with an instant start and energy savings. Mounting chain and “S” hook is included.
Features:• thermally protected and corrosion resistant• compatible with all Jump Start systems• fully assembled• accepts two T12 or T8, 24 inch 34 to 40 watt bulbs• two bulb fixture
Ask for it now at an authorized retailer near you.
Sunburst Digital BallastHydrofarm’s new Sunburst Digital Ballast delivers 10 per cent more lumens than magnetic ballasts in a compact, light-weight unit. The Sunburst E, available in both 250 and 400 watt models, is 30 per cent lighter than magnetic ballasts, meaning hanging is a breeze.
Sunburst provides:• high intensity grow light with built-in digital ballast• virtually silent operation• automatically converts from sodium to halide• energy efficient• air-cooling options available• low profile, lightweight• completely pre-wired• includes instructions, hangers and lighting
recommendationsAsk for the Sunburst Digital
Ballast at an authorized retailer near you.
Continued on page 112
PRODUCTspotlightSee it. Want it. Find it.
by Dr. Lynette Morgan
Moisture Matters
The frequency, amount, timing and duration of nutrient application to a hydroponic substrate are some of the most commonly discussed concerns by new growers. Even those with some experience can be caught out when switching from one substrate to another without realizing that the physical properties can vary considerably between growing media. More hydroponic plants are lost through over saturation in the root zone and the risks that occur with root suffocation and opportunist pathogen attack, then end up suffering through a drought. And while commercial growers can make use of computerized moisture sensors and complex formulas to determine the rate of irrigation, smaller growers need to be in tune with the growing environment, crop water uptake and media moisture levels.
44 MAXIMUM YIELD USA - February 2010
WHY MEDIA MOISTURE MATTERSHydroponics is often seen as a foolproof way of growing plants
under automatic control, so every aspect of plant growth is optimized. However, the majority of hydroponic systems still use some form of substrate or growing media to support the plant and retain a reserve of moisture and nutrients around the root zone between nutrient applications. Even many solution culture systems rely on a small amount of some substrate or material to hold the plant in position, while seeds and cuttings also need support during the propagation stages.Plants require water, nutrients and oxygen in the root zone
to both survive and obtain maximum growth and yields. In a hydroponic substrate these requirements are determined by the physical and chemical properties of the media, such as the water holding capacity, cation exchange capacity, pore size distribution and porosity. The substrate has to retain water and nutrients and at the same time must have enough oxygen and remove sufficient carbon dioxide for the plant to thrive. This water retention versus aeration within a growing media is a delicate balance as over watering reduces the amount of oxygen in the media for root respiration, leading to anaerobic conditions.
45MAXIMUM YIELD USA - February 2010
Cuttings require both moisture and high levels of aeration for callus formation; too much moisture will cause rotting of the cut stem.
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Moisture Matters
Drainage can be a problem in some hydroponic systems – the water held in the growing container is effectively a balance between the gravitational pull on the water, the tendency for water to adhere to particles by surface tension and also the tendency for water to be retained in the fine pores of the substrate by capillary action. ‘Container capacity’ refers to the amount of water held in a container of a given depth after drainage is complete and most cropping plants will perform best in a substrate with a high percentage of air filled pores when at container capacity. To achieve this high rate of both air filled porosity and water holding capacity a particular type of structure is required and this is seen in many good hydroponic substrates.Although it may appear that a
hydroponic substrate has better aeration and drainage than field soil, this may not always be the case; the bottom of
the growing container, or bed, creates a barrier to downward drainage. Once the medium’s pores at the container base become saturated with water, the moisture moves out of the container’s drainage holes. The rate at which nutrient moves through a hydroponic substrate and the amount which is left behind after irrigation are vital properties of a substrate, which are dependant on a number of physical properties of the media.Over watering is a more common
problem in hydroponic substrates that have a high moisture holding capacity.
These include the finer grades of coconut
fiber, peat, some grades of rockwool slabs,
decomposed sawdust and vermiculite.
Cool growing conditions, high humidity and low rates of growth also predispose heavier media to over irrigation as moisture is not taken up as rapidly by the plants. Under slow growth and cooler conditions, a lighter growing media with a higher degree of aeration and more rapid drainage is often a better choice, with more moisture retentive media of greater use under warm, faster growing conditions.
Some crops are very intolerant of high levels of moisture and prefer a coarse and very free draining medium.
Some plant species prefer a heavier and damper media with little tolerance for drying out.
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Over watering can cause problems such as fungus gnats and rapid growth of thick algae on the media surface.
“Cool growingconditions, high humidity and low rates of growth
predispose heavier media to over irrigation.”
OVER SATURATION – SIGNS AND SYMPTOMSEarly signs of over saturation of a
growing media may be as simple as the presence of shore flies and fungus gnats, which are attracted to the overly damp surface of a substrate. Fungus gnats are a particular problem as they can persist in hydroponic systems, which are continually over wet and where there is also organic matter such as compost.
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Moisture Matters
Rockwool is a substrate manufactured to have both high aeration and a moisture retentive gradient from the base to the surface of the material.
Cacti and succulents such as these hydroponic dragon fruit, prefer course, free draining media with infrequent irrigation.
The adult gnat fly lays eggs in the wet substrate, which hatch into small larvae and can chew into the root system causing
damage and creating wounds for root rot pathogens to enter. The best form of prevention of gnat problems is to keep the surface of all growing media slightly dry to prevent the gnats from laying eggs. Large amounts of algae may also grow on the surface of the media if over watering has been occurring. In seedling trays, high levels of moisture often lead to problems with damping off caused by opportunist pathogens such as pythium and rhizoctonia who prey on young plants stressed by over saturation and lack of oxygen. Cuttings and clones may suffer from stem rot and die back as over saturation cuts out much of the oxygen required for callus and root formation.While most plants can handle a short
stint of over watering, if the saturated conditions continue, further damage is inflicted and root respiration rates begin to decline through a lack of oxygen. Reduced root respiration often displays itself in a few different ways, some of
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Moisture Matters
which are species dependant. Some plants may, despite the high amount of moisture in the root zone, wilt during the warmest part of the day. This is a response to suffocation and hypoxic conditions in the root zone, as without a high degree of respiration the plant can’t take up sufficient water and nutrients. Longer
term nutrient deficiencies may show on the waterlogged plant, including
chlorosis (yellowing) or paleness in the new foliage. In more mature plants, flower and fruitlet drop is
common in waterlogged crops and older leaves may also yellow and abscise. One of the more extreme symptoms of waterlogged roots
is ‘epinasty’ where ethylene gas builds up within the plant causing
the upper side of the leaf petiole cells to elongate whereas those on the lower side do not. The result is a severe bending downwards of the leaves in response to long term water logged conditions that cut out sufficient oxygenation in the root zone. Epinasty in response to saturated root zone conditions are often mistaken for wilting caused by a lack of
Perlite is a good choice for beginners as it is difficult to overwater, while holding some moisture between irrigations. Warm season crops with large leaf areas are well
suited to highly moisture retentive substrates.
moisture, so growers need to carefully check whether wilted plants are actually suffering from a lack of irrigation or not. Some plants such as tomatoes may also respond to over saturation of the root zone with the production of adventitious roots up on the stems. These root initials can be numerous and can even erupt
“Strawberries have no tolerance for a saturated substrate and
many crop losses have resulted from over watering.”
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Moisture Matters
as large bumps and slits which may be mistaken for a pest or disease attack.Some plant species are highly prone to problems with over
watering, while others are quite tolerant. Strawberries, for instance, have no tolerance for a saturated substrate and many strawberry crop losses have resulted from over watering the crown leading to root. Many cacti and succulents will also rot when over irrigated and prefer a coarse and very free draining substrate such as perlite or coarse sand. Other plants – more notably those that are grown under warm conditions - have large leaves and a rapid rate of growth are better suited to highly moisture retentive media that will hold sufficient water between irrigations. Cucumbers, tomatoes, squash and similar crops perform well in a media that has a high water holding capacity and also a good rate of air filled porosity.
NUTRIENT APPLICATION PROGRAMSNutrient application rate, frequency and timing needs to
be carefully matched to the crop, stage of growth, type of hydroponic system and the water holding capacity and drainage
Rapid seed germination needs careful control of moisture as seeds will rot in over saturated conditions.
Even NFT systems can become over saturated if the flow of nutrient deepens and slows.
ability of the substrate. A crop growing in coarse perlite or expanded clay would be expected to have a different irrigation program to the same crop growing in fine coconut fiber or rockwool slabs. The coarser media would be expected to have a higher frequency of smaller volumes of irrigation, while the more moisture retentive media would have less frequent irrigation of a greater volume.Determining how often to irrigate a particular substrate
to avoid over saturation in the root zone can be difficult for newer growers. With experience growers soon develop an instinct of knowing how often to water certain media and how to adjust this for growing conditions and plant size. To start out inexperienced growers may want to chose one of the more free draining substrates such as coarse grade perlite and monitor how much drainage solution occurs after each nutrient application as a guide to irrigation amounts. However, more moisture retentive substrates such as coconut fiber are more forgiving of a lack of watering and probably a better choice in systems that can’t be monitored through the day. The moisture status of coconut fiber and similar substrates can be determined by poking a finger into the top of the substrate – this should be almost dry on top, but moist underneath the surface, with some nutrient run off at each irrigation.
Moisture Matters
Wilted plants should be checked to see if a lack of irrigation is actually the problem as over watering can cause similar symptoms.
Different hydroponic substrates vary in both their air filled porosity and water holding capacity.
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Systems such as ebb and flow, NFT and anywhere that a small volume of media is being used to support a plant in a larger system are also prone to over watering problems. While the nutrient solution may carry some dissolved oxygen, this is only a very small amount (six to 13 ppm on average) compared to that contained in moist air surrounding roots, so aeration is still a priority. NFT relies on a thin film (two to three millimeters deep) of nutrient solution flowing over the base of a growing channel; if the flow becomes slower and deeper, especially under warm growing conditions, problems can arise with insufficient oxygenation and root death. The requirement for both oxygen and moisture in the root zone is a trade off that needs to be considered in any type of hydroponic system as both are essential for optimal plant functioning.
MOISTURE METERSMoisture meters are not a substitute for experience when it
comes to plant irrigation and management; however, they are a useful tool for some hydroponic substrates. Most moisture meters have been developed for use in field soils; however, there are some models which can be used for soilless substrates. These should always be selected as they give a more accurate result with hydroponic mediums. Moisture meters range from the relatively inexpensive type sold for home gardeners to professional sensors
for larger scale greenhouse growers. The inexpensive type only gives a rough approximation of moisture levels but is useful for houseplants and small container systems. MY
Substrates may be combined to create a mix which has more suitable water holding qualities for the crop being grown.
Moisture Matters
Dr. Lynette Morgan shares her wisdom on water quality, tip top roots, dwarf flowers, hydroponic
transplants and more on maximumyield.com
by Andrew Taylor: Chemist for Flairform
Conductivity in Hydroponics (Part I)Monitor, Record, Adjust:
Because hydroponic nutrient mixtures are usually composed completely of salts, their approximate concentrations can be determined via conductivity values. However, because each individual nutrient has its own specific conductivity value, and the concentration ratios between nutrients are continuously changing, conductivity readings need careful interpretation. Only significant differences in day-to-day conductivity values may be important.Nevertheless, when intelligently used, conductivity values
are a valuable monitoring aid. Further, it is far preferable to quote conductivity values rather than TDS to monitor changes in hydroponic nutrient concentrations. Converting conductivity values to TDS is unnecessary and prone to large interpretation errors.
What is Conductivity (EC)?Conductivity represents the ease with which a solution
conducts electricity. Numerically it is measured in units called siemens. Solid substances known as salts (e.g. sodium chloride, potassium nitrate), yield ions when dissolved in water. Ions permit the flow of electricity through the solution. Increasing the concentration of ions improves the ease with which the solution carries a current and, therefore, causes a higher conductivity.
Liquids such as petrol and pure water are essentially non-conductors of electricity. Further, many water-soluble substances do not conduct electricity when dissolved in water. This occurs because these liquids/solutions contain very few ions.
How EC is measured?A conductivity meter or EC meter (also known as mS, cF or
TDS meter) is a device used to help monitor the concentration of nutrient solutions.
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Figure 1: Popular styles of conductivity meters: Availability ranges from the more expensive laboratory grade (left), to the cheaper, pocket-sized (right).
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61MAXIMUM YIELD USA - February 2010
A conductivity meter is essentially an “amp meter.” Two plates made of inert metal (palladium-coated platinum) are placed in the sample; an alternating current voltage of around 1,000 cycles per second is applied across them and the current is measured (Figure two ‘a’).
Conductivity (G) is the inverse of resistivity (R) and is determined from the voltage (E) and current (I) values according to Ohm's law: G = 1/R = I/E.Since the charge on the ions in a solution permits the
conductance of electrical current, for most solution types the conductivity will increase with concentration. Thus, an EC meter can be used to detect the presence of salts and their approximate concentration in a solution.
Units of measure for ECEC meters, nutrient labels and general literature represent
conductivity values in several ways. The more common units are:• mS/cm (often abbreviated as “mS”). Pronounced “milli-
siemens per centimeter.”• µS/cm (often abbreviated as “µS”). Pronounced “micro-
siemens per centimeter.”• cF (conductivity factor).• ppm* (parts per million) or mg/L (milligrams per liter).
These both have the same numeric value. These are the units for “total dissolved salts” (TDS). Meters that provide these units have internal software that mathematically converts conductivity readings into a TDS estimate. However, this estimate is prone to many errors and therefore its use should be avoided.To utilize conductivity recommendations you must first
know what units your meter operates in. This will be displayed on either the digital display or stamped on the body of the meter. Some brands offer multiple options (e.g. cF, mS and uS). If this is the case, choose the option that matches that used on the nutrient label – or the recommendation you were given. For example, if a nutrient label specifies “mS” then switch the meter to read “mS.”
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Figure 2a: Basic illustration of conductivity meter.Figure 2b: Laboratory electrode - arrows highlight the palladium coated platinum electrodes.
“Because liquids contain very few ions, many water-soluble substances will not conduct
electricity when dissolved in water.”
If your meter is incapable of producing units that match the conductivity recommendation, then manually convert the values to match (see Table one). For example, if the label gives a recommendation of 2.0 mS but your meter only works in cF, then convert the recommendation to cF by multiplying it by 10 (2.0 mS x 10 = cF 20).
Monitor, Record, Adjust: Conductivity in Hydroponics (Part I)
liter.A consequence of this linearity feature is that simple arithmetic
can be used to calculate the approximate conductivities, which would result from mixing different solutions of known conductivities. For example, if a 2.0 mS/cm water is diluted with an equal amount of distilled water (zero mS/cm), the result would be approximately 1.0 mS/cm. Similarly, if 100 milliliters of a 4.8 mS/cm nutrient solution is diluted with 900 milliliters of 0.40 mS/cm water (i.e. one plus nine), the expected result would be about 0.84 mS/cm (i.e. 100/1,000 x 4.8 + 900/1,000 x 0.40).
ii. Temperature effectThe effect of solution temperature on conductivity is such
that its value rises by about two per cent (compounded) for each one degree increase. However, most meters automatically apply a correction factor to the determined value such that the displayed value is as if the solution temperature was at 77oF.
iii. Effect of salt typeThe conductivity of different salts varies widely and is
determined by such factors as the size of the ions, and the charge density on these particles whilst in solution. For example, the conductivities at 77oF of 500 ppm aqueous solutions of sodium chloride, potassium chloride and potassium phosphate are 1.02 mS/cm, 0.95 mS/cm and 0.40 mS/cm respectively (Chart one).
Factors affecting the EC valueThe actual conductivity value of an aqueous solution
containing a single salt is determined by the concentration of that salt, the solution temperature and the nature of the particular salt.
i. Concentration effectWith relatively dilute solutions of
soluble salts up to 100 ppm or so, if the concentration is doubled, its conductivity usually also doubles. At higher concentrations, however, this strict proportionality deteriorates (see Table two). Note there is a better linear relationship between concentration and conductivity from one to two grams per liter compared to 10 and 20 grams per
Notably, the potassium phosphate solution has less than half the conductivity of a sodium chloride solution of equal concentration. Further, notice how potassium when combined with chloride (as potassium chloride) has a lower conductivity than what sodium does when combined with chloride (as sodium chloride). This is mainly because a 500 ppm solution of potassium chloride has about 30 per cent fewer ions to carry the current than a 500 ppm solution of sodium chloride – due to the fact that the combined mass of potassium and chloride is 30 per cent heavier than sodium chloride. Similarly, a 500 ppm solution of potassium phosphate has only 40 per cent of the number of ions than in the sodium chloride solution.
62 MAXIMUM YIELD USA - February 2010
“If the concentration of dilute solutions of soluble salts
is doubled, its conductivity usually also doubles.”
“500 ppm solution of potassium chloride has about 30 per cent fewer ions to carry the current
than a 500 ppm solution of sodium chloride.”
64 MAXIMUM YIELD USA - February 2010
Monitor, Record, Adjust: Conductivity in Hydroponics (Part I)
MY
Read more of Andrew Taylor’s insights on nutrients, pH, ventilation and lighting by searching the author archive on maximumyield.com
The impact of salt type upon the EC value is further emphasized when the EC of typical uncontaminated waters is compared with that of an inorganic nutrient solution of equal concentration. For example, an uncontaminated bore water containing 1,000 ppm of salt will typically yield an EC of 1.8mS/cm. However, an inorganic nutrient solution of the same EC will in fact contain 1,600 ppm of salt. The reason for this is inorganic nutrient mixtures have much higher concentrations of the heavier
low conductivity. Consequently you need to be aware that their addition will produce less increase in conductivity than a normal inorganic nutrient mixture. Also, note that additives that claim to be 100 per cent organic should contain no salts and their addition would produce no increase in conductivity.It should be emphasized that
conductivity measurements determine total dissolved salts only - not total dissolved solids. This is because the presence of solids and substances such as organics, clay, tannins, algae particles, precipitates, color etc., will not affect the measured conductivity. Total dissolved solids can only be determined by evaporation methods.
substances like potassium and phosphate. Bore waters, however, typically contain numerically more ions of lighter salts like sodium and chloride. The important point here is that the electrical mobility of these ions in water is not that different; it is the total number present that determines the conductivity.Hence, when following EC
recommendations in hydroponics, consider the composition of all additives. Flowering additives that contain a large proportion of phosphate yield a relatively
“Additives that claim to be 100 per cent organic should contain no salts and their addition would
produce no increase in conductivity.”
66 MAXIMUM YIELD USA - February 2010
Successful Cymbidium Growing for the Amateur Enthusiast
Successful Cymbidium Growing for the Amateur Enthusiast
by Scott Barrie
The genus Cymbidium mainly comes from the mid-range altitude of central Asia. Over the years, cymbidiums have been propagated and developed by dedicated growers to achieve the spectacular range of size and color that can be seen today and they are the genera that gardeners traditionally think of when orchids are mentioned. While cultivation in the home garden is generally easy, there are a few key considerations that can greatly improve the amateur grower’s success. This article is intended to provide an outline of some of the topics that should be considered.
Growing CymbidiumsMost cymbidiums are purchased as flowering plants which
have already formed a clump of what are called pseudo bulbs. These pseudo bulbs are dependent on each other for the sharing of nutrients and moisture. The older pseudo bulbs, which are generally leafless, are referred to as ‘back bulbs’ and are the plant’s reserve stores of moisture. It is worth remembering that if these are removed for either propagation or division, extra care must be paid to maintain the plants moisture levels.Cymbidiums are stage developmental growers. This means the
plant has different requirements as it moves through a seasonal growing cycle. The new growth or lead has a high water requirement, and usually emerges as the flowers are finishing. By this stage, the plant is already developing the next season’s flowers so a low nitrogen fertilizer should be used to promote flower initiation. As the lead starts to become a bulb, usually five or six months later, high nitrogen fertilizer is used to produce a large bulb and boost the plant pre-flowering.
The Growing EnvironmentCymbidiums will grow very well for the average enthusiast on
a patio or in the garden, although care should be taken to give plants protection from extremes such as frost or temperatures over 104°F. They are very keen on ventilation, so choose an open, airy position. Many gardeners have had success growing cymbidiums in the ground by placing them in a very free draining garden bed. The position of your cymbidium is also crucial if the plant is to be grown in the ground, as high light is required to give the best flowering results. Foliage color is a good indicator of light intensity, with dark green often meaning too little light, and pale green to white meaning the foliage is about to burn. From the point of view that we grow cymbidium for flowers, I would rather see burnt leaves and lots of spikes than broad dark green leaves and no flowers.
Feeding and Watering Although Cymbidiums
have evolved to overcome prolonged dry spells, they are more than happy to avoid them. Access to frequent watering without water-logging will allow plants to take as required.
A stem of cymbidium “Forest Green”. Green is traditionally one of the most popular colors.
68 MAXIMUM YIELD USA - February 2010
It is unnecessary to dry plants between watering and plants in pots will have higher water requirements, particularly in the warmer months. Fertilizing plants is the icing on the cake, the final part of the process. Management of watering is much more important, though it is fertilizing that is at the forefront of most
people’s minds. Cymbidiums are capable of growing in the garden with little attention in this area, though a regular application of a balanced fertilizer will give an increase in growth. Experienced growers will reduce the ratio of nitrogen to other elements in the fertilizer as the plant is initiating flower spikes. This is often done by using flower booster varieties of fertilizer.
Media Selection for PottingAs cymbidium growing is a long term project, the growing
media selected must have long lasting properties. When growing in pots, having to re-pot your plant repeatedly due to water logging caused by degrading mixes can have a significant negative impact on your plants. Because of this, inert, long lasting materials are the best choice. A horticultural rockwool and perlite mix is one excellent media choice and because inert media does not contain any nutrients, a soluble fertilizer is recommended.
Re-pottingDeveloping a healthy clump of pseudo bulbs is crucial in
getting the best from your cymbidium, and re-potting is a major part of this. Using methods that reduce the incidence of division are the key, as once a plant is divided it will set back the growth of the plant and severely impact the potential of the plant to produce flowers in the following season.
When plants are young, use slip potting. Simply remove the outgrown pot and select a pot approximately two inches larger and the fill the gap with new media. Not disturbing the roots will keep the plant growing. This should be done as soon after flowering as practical. As plants mature and develop a clump it may be necessary to remove some of the leaves from the older bulbs. This process is known as ‘stripping’ and allows the new growths access to the light, encouraging them to grow back into the centre of the plant and creating ‘stacking’ of the bulbs. Using stacking greatly reduces the need for division.
Pest and Disease ManagementCymbidiums are subject to a number of pests and diseases. It
is important to be able to identify these problems to protect flowers and foliage. Swift treatment with an appropriate, commercially available product is advisable.
Pests of the Plant FoliageCymbidium Scale is often seen in older plants. It shows as
a yellow discoloration on the leaf. As the pest increases in numbers they may be seen around the back bulbs.Two spotted mite is a very small pest often known as red
spider. These pests are active usually during the warmer months. They cause a silvering of the underside of the leaf. Severe attacks will also show up on the flowers and this will cause a distortion of the bloom.
Pests of the FlowersThrips are prevalent on the warm spring winds and will be
attracted to pale bright colored flowers. This pest will leave small clear spots on the flower.Snails and slugs are lurking at the base of the plant until the
flower you have been waiting on for a year is about to open. They will devour a flower over night. Signs are the slimy silvery trail left by the pest.Aphids will appear in large numbers on the underside of the
flower bud just prior to opening. Their attack will leave the flower distorted.
DiseasesFungal diseases often occur during the autumn and spring, and
may affect the foliage. This will be seen first as small black areas on the leaf. In the worst case, plants will blacken and die.Botrytis may affect the flowers if they are wet for prolonged
periods. This will show up as fine black spots which will cover the flower. Usually this will be a problem in pale colors, although all colors may be affected.By following a few easy steps and being vigilant of your plant’s
health, you should experience great satisfaction with growing your cymbidium and enjoy many years of beautiful flowers. Good luck and happy growing! MY
Visit www.maximumyield.com and allow the images of all the beautiful
varieties of orchids to add some color to your day.
Successful Cymbidium Growing for the Amateur Enthusiast
A large seven year old cymbidium plant in a 10 inch pot. Back bulbs in the foreground. This plant is developing a stack as the new or leads grow back into the center of the plant. Stacking helps to limit the requirement for division.
A stem of cymbidium Khan Flame ‘Barrita’. Bright colors are in high demand as cut flowers.
70 MAXIMUM YIELD USA - February 2010
BEGINNER'Scorner
For many gardeners, especially those who live in cold-weather climates, the looming weather can make gardening a bit of a challenge. The cold temperatures, short supply of sunlight and hard, frozen soil add up to a difficult hobby—unless, of course, you do it indoors and your crop of choice is shamrocks.The name shamrock is derived from the Irish “seamrog”
meaning “summer plant.” It is Ireland’s most famous symbol and represents the Cross and the Blessed Trinity. Its trefoil-shaped leaves meant it was a sacred plant of the ancient Druids of Ireland and of other ancient civilizations around the world. The shamrock is forever connected to the teachings of the Three in One Trinity by St. Patrick in the fifth century and his banishment of serpents from Ireland.But not only Ireland stakes a claim; Montreal, Canada’s flag
has a shamrock located in the lower right quadrant, proudly representing its Irish heritage. In addition, not many people realize that the shamrock is also a revered plant in the Muslim world.
The Auld Sod Company is offering the perfect gift for
indoor gardeners. The Auld Sod Box Set is an all-in-one
pack that lets the recipient grow authentic Irish Shamrocks
in a beautifully crafted Belleek bowl with Official Irish
Shamrock seeds. The box set includes: an exclusive
handmade Belleek fine china bowl, official Irish shamrock
seeds approved by the Irish Government and a one pound
pouch of official Irish soil. Visit www.auldsodgifts.com
Your How-To Guide to Growing Irish Shamrocks
MY
Your How-To Guide to Growing Irish Shamrocks
So how do you get started?• First, purchase some Irish shamrock seeds and place them in
the refrigerator (not the freezer) for at least 24 hours. This tricks the seeds into thinking they have gone through a winter so they will germinate more quickly.
• Select a pot or bowl to grow your shamrocks in and add your medium of choice - for real Irish shamrocks use authentic Irish soil - into the pot to about an inch below the rim.
• Dampen the soil with water but do not overdo it (the extent of watering will depend on whether the pot or bowl has a drainage hole or not. For pots with no drainage hole you should water more sparingly; frequent misting is often best.
• After 24 hours remove the seeds from the refrigerator, tear open and sprinkle evenly on the top of the damp soil. Real Irish shamrock seeds are actually coated in lime to add weight and to make them easier to see (without the lime coating they are virtually weightless and will be blown away by your breath).
• Use as many of the seeds as you see fit. When you have done this, cover the seeds with a thin layer of soil and gently press down with the base of a glass or with your fingers. Moisten again and place in a bright location within the house but not in direct sunlight.
• The seeds will germinate in a few days and seedlings will appear. They will grow quite quickly provided the soil is kept moist. We recommend frequent misting with occasional watering as the best method of maintaining the damp soil. This simulates rain, which shamrocks are well accustomed to in Ireland!
• As the seedlings grow, you will notice that two leaves will appear. Have patience and faith, the third leaf of the trefoil will appear a few days after. The shamrock plants will turn toward the light source so try turning the pot the other way and watch the shamrocks twist. They actually move quite quickly.
• The shamrocks will also fold their leaves up and go to sleep at night. The plants will continue growing for many weeks and will produce a yellow flower after about six to eight weeks.
• When the plants become overgrown, cut them back with scissors, and if you keep the soil moist they will continue to grow.
Call it the luck of the Irish, but the winter months represent the ideal time for the indoor growing of shamrocks. With St. Patrick’s Day in March, a shamrock seed planted now will be at its peak just in time for picking and wearing with pride for the celebration. MY
Next Generation LEDs Part I:THE DIoDEs sTRIkE BACk
The last time we discussed LED (light emitting diode) technology for plant growth together, we looked at dual band (red/blue) light spectrum outputs in the 0.5 to one watt diode range. The overall output of the panels ranged from 45 to 90 watts. LED technology for plant growth is being developed at an accelerated rate, with much change in the technology occurring within a relatively short time frame.In a previous article, I concluded that LEDs were a viable
technology for providing artificial light energy to fuel the photosynthetic response (plant
growth). However, there were some limitations. The dual band spectrum
provided only red and blue light wavelengths. While these bands are
where most of the photosynthetic response occurs, making LEDs very efficient, there is some
other activity that occurs in other spectrums of the visible light bandwidth.Imagine this: blue and red wavelengths of light are like the
macronutrients, in terms of fertilizers, while other bandwidths are more like micronutrients. Micronutrients are just as important
as macronutrients; the big difference is that they are used in much smaller quantities than macronutrients. So, it’s about
supplying the correct and exact ratios of each. HPS and MH lighting produce huge quantities of their output in spectra that the plant uses very little of, making them much less efficient although effective because they are full spectrum.
by Erik Biksa
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75MAXIMUM YIELD USA - February 2010
Furthermore, the exact spectral output of the diodes, measured in nanometers (nm), has been fine tuned in next generation LED lighting so that the output occurs where the most light energy intensive reactions occur. In order to provide a complete, although not very intense, full spectrum light source with first generation LED grow lighting, the LEDs were supplemented with full spectrum CFL or T5 fluorescent lighting to meet the needs of the photosynthetic response on all the necessary wavelengths.The result using the first generation LED lighting
was a source of light for plant growth that used a minimal amount of electricity and delivered the required wavelengths of light to sustain healthy plant growth. It was also noted that different types of plants seemed to require different wavelengths of light at different times. The earlier LEDs were capable of producing healthy growth for rooting cuttings, young plants, seedlings and vegetative growth. The growth was exceptionally healthy and “hard” and supported relatively rapid development.
The first generation LED units provided an exceptionally cool running growing
environment, which allowed for the use of supplemental CO
2 enrichment to be applied
very easily and cost effectively; further accelerating growth rates, plant health and yield potential. In our early test model, we were able to maintain CO
2 levels of
between 1200-2800 ppm in the growing environment by the use of fermentation in a sealed hydrohut (grow tent). Noticeably
faster growth rates occurred, and the by-product of the fermentation, beer, was an
added bonus. Not only was this set-up low in energy requirements, it was very economical and
very quiet, an important consideration for those urban growers who live within close proximity to their gardens.
“EARLIER LEDs wERE CAPABLE of PRoDuCING HEALTHy GRowTH foR RooTING CuTTINGs, youNG PLANTs,
sEEDLINGs AND vEGETATIvE GRowTH.”
“IT APPEARs THAT LEDs ARE READy To GIvE youR CRoP EvERyTHING IT NEEDs
foR HIGH yIELDs AND vIGoRous PRoDuCTIoN IN BLooM.”
76 MAXIMUM YIELD USA - February 2010
Next Generation LEDs Part I
The earlier LED set-ups delivered good results relative to the amount of electricity they consumed, although HPS and MH High Intensity Discharge lamps seemed to win in terms of yield in the bloom phase. They also produced a lot more noise, heat and at least triple the electrical consumption when factoring all of the peripheral equipment required to manage the heat levels the HID lamps produced. To be fair though, if the earlier dual band lower wattage systems went watt to watt with the HIDS, they were capable of surpassing yields and crop quality in many types of plants. One drawback was that certain types of plants that had a definite “finish” in their life cycle sometimes took prolonged periods of time to ripen; this was attributed to limitations created by the dual band spectrum, although supplemental full spectrum fluorescent light alongside of the LED panels helped to improve upon this issue.Due to their relatively lower intensity, and therefore
limited ability to deliver high levels of light energy over distance travelled from the source of the light (diodes), it was recommended that those interested in gardening with such LEDs select auto-flowering plant varieties that mature under longer photoperiods and finish relatively shorter in stature, for example, less than 18 inches tall. This way, the plants were able to receive significant light levels from top to
Quad Band LED Spectral Output (327 Watts)When compared against the known photosynthetic response curve, quad band LEDs maximize the areas of highest photosynthetic activity in their output.
bottom, providing more consistent quality in all fruits and flowers harvested from the crop.So, here we are today, with the next generation of LED units
for plant growth in hand. It truly is amazing to see how much the technology has improved and evolved in such a short time span. I was amazed at how bright the first generation units were relative to the amount of power they consumed. I was nearly blinded by the intensity that the next generation LED panels produced; and this is coming from someone who has spent far too much time around bright HID lighting!In fact, the model tested for this article draws approximately
586 watts of power, yet produces 30 per cent more initial light intensity than the sun, and has double the output of a 1000 watt HPS lamp at equal distances from the light source. These intensities have been carefully measured in the 610-680 nm range using a highly specialized light meter; this is where most of the photosynthetic response for reproductive (bloom phase) in a variety of crops occurs. Consult Chart 1-A in this article to compare the relative spectral output of this new quad-band LED growth technology to a horticultural HPS lamp, while also comparing to the known photosynthetic response curve.
High Output LEDs Not only are there more individual chips in this generation of LEDs, they are of higher wattages for incredible output.
1A-HPS VS Quad Band for Photosynthesis Looking at this chart, we can see that quad band LEDs appear to be better tailored to the known photosynthetic response curve VS HPS lighting.
Next Generation LEDs Part I
in cooling equipment required and the relatively high level of electricity required operating energy intensive appliances such as ACs, chillers and industrial fans.Not only are there more diodes in this unit versus the first
generation of LEDs discussed, they are of higher wattages. The diodes themselves are approximately two watts each, although
the power they are driven to is dependent on the individual spectral outputs engineered into each of the different LED chips on the lighting board.These cutting edge LED chips are
driven at much higher frequencies than previously with earlier
diode technologies used for plant growth. The difference is significant. Now the chips can be driven at hundreds of milliamps instead of tens of milliamps; this fuels the process at which electrical current is passed through the chip and energy, called electro luminescence, is released. In laymen’s terms: bigger LED chip + more milliamps = very bright light versus first generation LED crop lighting. While more milliamps are being passed through the individual LED chips, the overall amount of power consumed is still relatively very low to the intensity of the light produced, making the next generation of LED crop lighting technologies very efficient.Now with all of this output, surely there must be a lot more
heat? The answer is no, not really. Even at more than 10X the light energy output versus the earlier 45 watt dual band, smaller wattage diode panels, these higher wattage LED systems run incredibly cool relative to their light output, retaining all of the benefits from the first generation of LEDs while delivering a broader and more intense source of light for bigger yields and faster finishes.As with the smaller wattage first generation LED units, the very
small amount of heat that is produced by LED lighting originates mostly from the electronic driver that regulates the amperage (milliamps) being directed to the individual diodes in the arrangement on the light board. One difference, however, is that the high output second generation light system is heavier. The internal circuitry is cooled with several small computer-type fans.
Not only is this lighting technology incredibly bright, it has been engineered as a quad-band spectral output to ensure that all of the necessary wavelengths for all types of plants are being delivered, allowing plants to complete their natural life cycle similar to HPS and MH illuminated gardens. This is an especially important consideration for the ripening phase for crops in the bloom cycle. The unit featured here produces light in the following ranges: 455-475 nm (blue), 620-630 nm (red), 660 nm (far red) and bright white (full spectrum, 2700K).There was never any question as to
whether LEDs were effective for vegetative growth. It now appears that LEDs are ready to give the crop everything it needs for high yields and vigorous production in bloom: intense light levels in balanced spectral ratios while eliminating what the crop does not need - excessive heat. All of this with about half the power consumption in lighting alone, and significantly reduced costs
“EvEN AT MoRE THAN 10X THE LIGHT ENERGy ouTPuT vERsus THE EARLIER
45 wATT DuAL BAND, sMALLER wATTAGE DIoDE PANELs, THEsE
HIGHER wATTAGE LED sysTEMs RuN INCREDIBLy CooL.”
78 MAXIMUM YIELD USA - February 2010
HPS Lamp Spectral Output (1000 watts) HPS lamps produce a lot of yellow and orange in their spectrum, falling short in the red and far red wavelengths relative to the overall output.
Looks can be deceiving...When not powered, the individual diodes appear rather tame; however, when powered on, they are blinding.
All lit up Here we can see that different diodes are giving off different light wavelengths; they are installed in exacting patterns and ratios for optimal plant lighting.
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MY
Years of experience and research have made Erik an expert on growing indoors and hydroponically. Read his work
on CO2, LEDs and Controlled Environment Agriculture by visiting maximumyield.com
They run so quiet that they are barely audible, making second generation LED lighting systems much quieter than conventional core and coil ballasted HID lighting systems, as well as quieter than some models of electronically ballasted HID lighting systems. High power LED systems run cool for the amount of light they produce, so it is possible to construct a garden in a wider range of locations, because noisy fans and extensive duct work for cooling purposes are minimized or eliminated.The space for growing crops does not require as much vertical
clearance, or conversely, taller plants can be grown in rooms with height limitations. The high powered LED fixtures can be placed very close to the ceiling and the LEDs run cool enough that, if necessary, plants can grow very close the LED light source. Conventional HID lamps require significant clearances from the top of the plants to prevent overheating, and require significant clearance distances from ceilings for safety reasons. The additional clearance requirements for HID lamps can limit the vertical space for crop growth in tighter spaces as a result.It would seem things are looking very promising for this latest
generation of high-powered, quad-band LED crop lighting systems. In the next couple of installments, we will put the technology through its paces, and take some comparative measurements versus traditional indoor crop lighting systems such as HPS, MH and high output fluorescent lighting.LED lighting for crop growth may very well revolutionize the
way we grow plants indoors, and allow for just about anybody, in any type of space to be able to set-up a highly efficient and productive indoor garden so that anybody with an affinity for all things leafy and green may enjoy fresh healthy harvests of their favorite plants any time of year. Stay tuned for part two in the series to learn more about this rapidly evolving technology.
“THE HIGH PowERED LED fIXTuREs CAN BE PLACED vERy CLosE To THE CEILING AND THE LEDs RuN CooL ENouGH THAT, If NECEssARy, PLANTs CAN GRow vERy
CLosE THE LED LIGHT souRCE.”
80 MAXIMUM YIELD USA - February 2010
TIPS &tricks
by Matt LeBannister
Safety is a very important aspect of our lives. From hard hats on job sites to seat belts in cars, safety is always a priority. The grow room is no different. It is filled with hidden dangers and hazards. With proper advice and know-how one can easily avoid these dangers and enjoy the wonderful experience that is indoor gardening.Let us discuss bulb safety first. Bulbs can be dangerous if
not handled carefully. One must remember that H.I.D. (High Intensity Discharge) bulbs get extremely hot when turned on. In fact you can see them actually glow with heat when turned off in the dark. This requires that bulbs be left for about half an hour to cool when turned off before handling.
H.I.D. bulbs can also be dangerous if they get a crack in the outer arc tube. The outer arc tube is designed to virtually contain all of the ultraviolet
light produced by the bulbs. Ultraviolet light is a form of radiation and can burn skin and eyes. This is
produced by the sun and is why we get sunburns and why we cannot stare into the sun. If you detect a crack in any of
your H.I.D. bulbs, immediately unplug the ballast so that the light turns off. The light is now ruined, totally unsafe and must
in theGrow Room
be replaced. Most quality bulb manufacturers have a one year warranty on their bulbs. If it was more than a year old, the bulb needs to be replaced anyway because they will have dropped significantly in lumen production.Ballasts are also a source of danger if not used properly. There
are high levels of current going through H.I.D. ballasts. Keep all ballasts off the grow room floor. This ensures that the risk of electric shock is minimized. It also keeps ballasts from becoming damaged.Metal core ballasts can get quite hot. They should never be
close to anything that might catch fire. Ballasts should always have their covers on and should never be hung in strands. If one wire touches a hot part of the ballast the wire insulation will burn off leaving the wire exposed. This is a serious fire hazard and should never be allowed to happen.Remember that all
electronic equipment, such as H.I.D. ballasts, should only be modified and/or repaired by qualified professionals.
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Another hidden danger in the grow room is the chemical nutrients and pesticides used. Precautions must be taken when applying these potentially dangerous substances. Acids and bases that are used to adjust pH can be very corrosive to the human skin and eyes. Powdered nutrients can easily be inhaled. If chemicals are mixed together outside of water, reactions can occur with deadly gases being released. Pesticides are poisonous not only to the insects but to the gardener applying it. One should always have on eye protection, rubber protective gloves and a mask when using one or more of the aforementioned products.Do not let this article scare you from
enjoying your garden. It can be as risk-free as reading a book if the right precautions are taken. Simply let it to be a guide for a safer, more productive gardening experience.
“While there are several potentially dangerous elements to indoor
gardening, taking proper precautions can mean a safer, more
productive experience.”
PART II
Healthy habitats burst with color while beneficial organisms ensure a thriving root system underground.
a
Steps to GardeninG
with natureby Dr. Carole Ann Rollins and Dr. Elaine Ingham
How healthy are the flowers, shrubs and trees in your yard?
Answer: a) During the growing season, healthy plants are green and growing, not yellow or brown. They have the desired shape and are not leggy or spindly. Healthy plants set fruit or seed and develop according to the expected timeline. Healthy plants are free of virus or disease symptoms, do not attract pests and are not attacked by root-feeding insects or nematodes.Healthy plants contain properly balanced nutrient levels.
Disease, pests and weeds occur in growing systems that lack nutritional balance. Plants must contain all the nutrients for balanced growth, which encourage active, healthy, beneficial organisms on and around the plant and its connecting parts. A healthy habitat, maintained by beneficial organisms, ensures disease and pests have no way to gain a foothold in the system.If plants are deteriorating, make five or six holes in a circle
around the plant, usually about halfway between the drip line and the stem of the plant. Angle each hole slightly toward the plant, if possible, in the ground about eight to 10 inches deep and one to two inches in diameter. Fill the holes with a mix of compost and sand (pea gravel works too). Use a mix of compost tea and the right kind of mycorrhizal fungal spores to coat the sides and bottom of the holes before filling them with the compost-sand mix.
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Prematurely yellowed, veined, spotted or wilted plants indicate a lack of activity by certain sets of organisms in the plant’s root system, specifically protozoa, beneficial nematodes and microarthropods. Make certain the full diversity of plant-surface protective organisms is present and functioning.Initially, organisms will need to be added to get
them established, but after mixing the organisms throughout the soil, water or hydroponics medium, thermal or worm compost can be placed on the surface or in the liquid used for watering. Just remember that a thick layer of compost should not be placed on the stem of a plant as this will restrict air flow.When potting plants, the initial compost application is
dependent on the potting material being used. Generally, mix compost into the sterile potting material at rates between one and 10 per cent by weight of the final material. If excellent compost is used, it can stand alone. Once the plants are potted, place 1⁄4 to 1⁄2 inch of compost on the surface of the solid
medium, or add liquid compost (compost tea) to the watering reservoir to maintain the needed diversity of organisms.An initial assessment of the system must be made to determine
whether organisms need to be mixed into the soil, or whether the biology in the soil is good enough that surface applications will be adequate to re-establish health.
Kessner Photography
A green plant is a healthy plant. Wilted, yellowing or brown plants require plenty of nutrient rich compost so they may function properly again.
84 MAXIMUM YIELD USA - February 2010
Beware of compost made with feedlot manure. When animals are fed materials containing a great deal of salt, antibiotics or preservatives, these substances can come through in the manure and cause problems. Some feedlot manures have documented levels of 1,000 ppm or more of salt, which will prevent most good sets of organisms from growing. When in doubt about compost quality, call the manufacturer and ask for test results on salt levels (EC), or ask for documentation on the sets of micro-organisms most sensitive to high salt levels. Protozoa, beneficial fungi and earthworms can serve as your canary in the coal mine; if the material lacks these organisms, be suspicious.
Even if chemical fertilizers are being used, the growing conditions for plants, and therefore their health, can be improved. Organic matter, specifically humic acids, can tie-up salt from chemical fertilizers. The addition of organic matter, or humic acid, must occur before adding any microbes. If soil contains organic matter at levels above three per cent, then medium to low salt concentration impacts will be reduced. In general, for every three per cent of organic matter in the soil, another two pound bag of inorganic chemical fertilizer could be used with little initial detectable impact on the organisms.Remember, however, that for organic matter to be useful, it
must be aerobic. Thus high organic matter in swamps where the soil is water-logged and anaerobic may not prove beneficial to microbial life. If soil is compacted, and water and oxygen cannot move into the medium, the organic matter will not have the ability to hold salt the way it can in aerobic conditions.
Steps to Gardening with Nature Part II
When adding organic matter, remember it must be aerobic to be useful. Water-logged or oxygen-starved soil will not support important, microbial life.
Be cautious of feedlot manures; some have documented levels of 1,000 ppm or more of salt, which will prevent most good sets of organisms from growing.
85MAXIMUM YIELD USA - February 2010
a
a
Answer: b) If trees are not doing well, perform the same tasks directed in 4a, drilling the holes as deep as possible, preferably below any compaction layer you might encounter. More than one ring of holes should be made; put one ring of five to six holes halfway between the drip line and the trunk, and another set of six to 10 holes at the drip line, if the tree is big enough to have that extensive a root system.
Answer: c) Start using gardening products that work with nature to feed beneficial organisms, which will release the nutrients your plants’ need, when and where they need them. By creating an environment that sustains aerobic microbial life, those microbes will, in turn, provide food and nutrients for your plants. Bacteria and fungi hold minerals in the medium, while protozoa, beneficial nematodes and microarthropods change nutrients from unavailable forms into plant-available forms. Without the full set of microbes in your growing system, you could use the best organic products available on the market but not achieve all the benefits you want. This is the reason many people switching to organic are not successful. The addition of the full set of beneficial microbes to the system is critical.
Both growing conditions and additives play important roles in determining the success of your plantings
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a
a
Steps to Gardening with Nature Part II
“CReATING AN eNVIRONMeNT THAT SuSTAINS AeROBIC
MICROBIAL LIFe eNSuReS FOOD AND NuTRIeNTS
ReACH THe PLANT.”
5. How do I prepare my soil for new plantings?
Answer: The goal is to achieve a soil composition with a minimum of three to five per cent organic matter, with a good set of organisms, and to allow those organisms to build excellent structure. With this amount of organic matter, adequate water will be held through most seasons, and the diversity of nutrients will be adequate to maintain a healthy set of highly diverse micro-organisms. As these organisms grow, they build airways and passageways to allow good root growth. Correctly made, aerobic compost with the full diversity of organisms will provide the source of foods, nutrients and organisms. Testing using direct microscope methods is recommended to check microbial diversity periodically to ensure that nothing has been lost through seasonal changes or outside influences on your system.
6. How do I plant new flowers, shrubs and trees?
Answer: a) When planting in a hole or a pot, gradually mix about a 50/50 ratio of the soil that was taken out with high-quality compost. Vary the compost concentration so that nearly straight soil is near the edges of the hole and increase the amount of compost until the root ball or roots sit in a 50/50 mix, or maybe a little higher in compost.This way, the roots will be encouraged to grow deeper into the
soil and not be root bound where the sides are like a clay pot. Roots don’t want to grow into hard, compacted, low-oxygen soil. A gradual adjustment to the site soil, which may not have good organic matter, will be made easier if the change is not abrupt.While the plant is recovering from transplanting, it would
be a good idea to add a handful of food to the mix, helping beneficial fungi grow and establish around the root system of the plant. The amount isn’t absolute, although if you know what is lacking, you can be more precise. In general, add about
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a
a
a handful of organic microbe food, such as dried fish, kelp, fish flakes, ground oatmeal, bran, barley or other grain material, to every five gallons of potting mix.Make certain that you disturb the planting medium as little
as possible, as mixing and tilling will slice and crush many of the best organisms. Tillage certainly disrupts the ability of oxygen and water to move through the soil normally. Since the organisms build the hallways and passageways that allow air and water to move normally, any disruption that destroys the organisms will cause problems down the line with plant health.
Answer: b) Roll seeds in a mixture of mycorrhizal fungal spores and compost tea before planting. Dip bare roots in a mixture of mycorrhizal fungal spores and compost tea just before planting. You can also put the mycorrhizal fungal spores out in your planting rows and drench the soil with compost tea and other organic nutrients.
7. How often should I spray nutrients and microbes on plants?
Answer: a) If microbial life has been established in the soil, and the plants are not free of disease, the transition has not occurred. Until the balance of micro-organisms is established, compost - in solid or liquid form - should be applied once a week. Once the balance of micro-organisms has been established, and the plants are showing a return to health, the soil becomes open and soft again. Then applications can be reduced to twice a month for a few months, and then to once a month. Eventually, applications should decrease to three or four times per season. Possibly, in situations where little disturbance occurs, applications can decrease to once or twice a year.But watch your plants. If the beginnings of any problems are
seen, then apply microbes every few days, until the problem goes away; afterward, resume the regular schedule.
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aa
a
a
8. How often should I put nutrients in the planting medium?
Answer: Whenever the biology in the soil has been harmed and is not functioning correctly, inorganic fertilizers may be required. Plants may need to be fed directly if the organisms are not present or working properly.However, if the diversity of organisms has not been harmed, if
organic matter is present and if sand, silt, clay or other mineral nutrients are present in non-toxic forms, there is little reason to add inorganic nutrients.People will often become convinced that their planting
materials have no nutrients at all, based on the soil test they have done. Be aware that you are only getting a miniscule amount of information about your soil from that test. So-called soil tests, or chemical analyses of the soluble pool of nutrients, give information usually less than 0.1 to one per cent of the total nutrients in soil. Soil tests only tell you about the tiny amount of any nutrient that is in the soluble pool of nutrients, that is, only the nutrients that are dissolved in water. Most of the nutrients present in any planting mix are not dissolved in the water, but rather, are present in solid forms - in the rocks, sand, silt and clay, in organic matter and in micro-organisms.Micro-organisms transform nutrients from unavailable forms
into plant-available forms. Different nutrients are transformed by different species of microbes. Different conditions will select for the growth of different organisms. We don’t need to know the specific name of each organism present; we just need to know that there are adequate amounts of each type of organism so that the jobs get done, no matter what the environmental conditions.So how much inorganic nutrient should you add to your soil?
If the correct set of organisms are present, three per cent organic matter or more will allow the organisms to have the food they need to function. More is better. When nothing is protecting the roots, that’s when disease, pests and lack of fertility will occur. When these problems are evident, it’s time to add compost or liquid compost tea.
If 70 to 100 per cent of your plant surface is covered with beneficial microbes, then non-beneficial microbes (disease organisms) will be outcompeted for food and space. Don’t forget to spray microbes on your plant stems too!
Answer: b) If you have established microbial life in your soil; you have improved organic matter concentrations to five per cent; and no environmental disturbance has occurred (pesticide drift, high salts or heavy metals in water), then your plants will obtain all the nutrients they need from the soil, resulting in healthy plant growth.In our modern world, however, there are many
insults and injuries to the environment that are out of our control. Most people need to jump-start Mother Nature with the addition of microbes to get natural nutrient cycling processes going again. Re-establishment of the normal populations of organisms to plant surfaces is necessary, as well.Given ongoing air pollution, it may be necessary to plan on
a compost application to the soil surface once or twice a year, depending on disturbances and air pollution contamination. Once again, depending on pesticide drift, air pollution and other factors, it may be necessary to apply compost tea three to four times in the growing season to maintain the beneficial organisms on the leaves, stems and fruit of the plants.
Answer: c) When you use organic nutrients in conjunction with compost teas, you can usually reduce the recommended amount of inorganic fertilizers by at least 1⁄3 to 1⁄2 in the first year, and then by another 1⁄3 to 1⁄2 in the second year.As the microbes become established, inorganic nutrient
additions are no longer needed because, as in any natural
system, those nutrients are cycling from the soil and
from the sand, silt, clay, rocks, pebbles and
organic matter.
Answer: d) Use five gallons of top-
notch, properly made, aerobic, highly microbial compost tea per acre for every five feet of tree height of the canopy.
“WHeN yOu uSe ORGANIC NuTRIeNTS WITH COMPOST
TeAS, yOu CAN uSuALLy ReDuCe INORGANIC
FeRTILIZeRS By AT LeAST 1/3 TO 1/2 IN THe FIRST yeAR, AND THeN By ANOTHeR 1/3 TO 1/2
IN THe SeCOND yeAR.”
Steps to Gardening with Nature Part II
Increase the amount of compost around the roots so they sit in a 50/50 mix. This encourages the roots to grow deeper and not be root bound.
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a
Enough compost or liquid compost should be used to re-establish the organisms that are needed and to get them active and functioning. Some testing using direct microscopy is recommended to determine what is lacking and when the problem is fixed.Another approach is to add nutrients and microbes into mulch,
compost or worm castings that have dried out or have been sitting for a long time without adequate moisture. This will allow nutrient availability to increase through microbial action. Test using direct microscope methods to ascertain when the dormant bacteria have become active again. For example, if the plan was to apply 100 pounds of humic acid directly to your soil, you could reduce that amount to 10 pounds if a good diversity of micro-organisms was previously applied to a humic acid–compost mix. Once the organisms have woken up and are functioning, apply humic acid to the soil surface or lightly mix it into the soil that needs resuscitation.
9. What should I do in the fall to prepare for winter?
Answer: Use 20 gallons of good-quality compost tea per acre as a soil drench each fall. If there were disease problems in the plants during the summer, the organisms growing on that diseased plant material have to be outcompeted, consumed or otherwise prevented from having a place to live. Decomposition of the dead plant material will destroy the habitat that would otherwise let those disease organisms multiply through the winter.
10. What should I do in the spring to prepare for summer?
Answer: Use 20 gallons of good-quality compost tea per acre as a soil drench in the spring. Monitoring of the organisms should be done to make certain the needed set of organisms is present. If any group is low or missing, then additional applications are needed. If the amounts and balances of organisms are adequate, then no further additions are required.
Enjoy Your Garden! MY
A printable list of the Top 10 Steps to Gardening with Nature is available on
www.maximumyield.com
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From Waste to Worthwhile
Worm Power!
Vermicomposting - composting with worms - is an ideal way
to turn kitchen waste into nutritious compost for the garden.
And you can vermicompost even if you don't have a garden!
A worm bin can be kept indoors, or on the patio, and the
compost and liquid produced are ideal for feeding houseplants.
step 1:Firstly you need a container to keep your composting worms in. You
can buy ready-made wormeries, and many of these are very good. Or you can find instructions on the Internet to make your own. The things you need to remember when choosing or building a wormery are that worms are living creatures and have certain requirements. Your worm bin will need drainage and air holes, but you also need to ensure that the worms can't escape and that they're kept in the dark.
by Emma Cooper
91MAXIMUM YIELD USA - February 2010
step 2:Source your worms. You need proper composting worms -
also called red wigglers or brandlings. You can buy them mail order, or get them from fishing tackle stores as they are also used as bait.Composting worms are used to living in a composting
environment, and eat their way through their own bodyweight in waste every day. Regular earthworms don't like being kept in composters - they like to build burrows underground and remain undisturbed.
step 3:When you've got a suitable wormery, and your worms, you
can set up the bin. Add the worms into the bin, with some suitable bedding. If you bought your worms mail order then they may have come with a coir block that you can soak in water and break up. Otherwise you can use shredded paper or something similar, but make sure that it's damp. Use something organic, so the worms feel at home. It will compost down with the rest of the waste, but that doesn't matter.Once you've settled the worms, close the lid on the wormery
and leave them to get used to their new home for a few days. Resist the temptation to keep lifting the lid - they don't like the light and you will disturb them. Once they feel at home they are less likely to try and escape from the bin.
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step 4:You can start to add your kitchen waste a little bit at a
time. The worm population will gradually increase to match the available food supply, but at the beginning it's important not to add more food than they can handle. Too much food will start to rot and smell bad - if that happens, stop adding new waste and let them catch up.Worms love vegetable foods - peelings, tea bags, coffee
grounds, even kitchen paper and coffee filters. They don't like meat, dairy products and fish. They're also not fond of spicy foods and too many acidic foods, so don't add too many onion skins or citrus peels.
step 5:Once your wormery is up and running and you're adding
your kitchen waste, you need to make sure to drain the resulting liquid off on a regular basis so that the worms don't drown! The liquid run-off is very nutritious, and when diluted (to the color of weak tea) with water, it makes a great liquid feed for houseplants or garden plants. You'll get much more liquid feed from your wormery than compost.
Worm Power: From Waste to Worthwhile
Kitchen waste should be added slowly to allow the worms sufficient time to eat through it.
93MAXIMUM YIELD USA - February 2010
step 6:It will be months before you need to worry about
removing finished compost from your wormery. The worms will tend to move out of the finished compost and into the newer waste, and you can separate them out when you remove the compost, and then re-start the bin. You don't have to remove all of the worms from the finished compost - they're native species and will help improve the soil if they get loose in the garden. The population in the wormery will soon recover.
MY
About the author: Emma Cooper is the voice of the Alternative Kitchen Garden podcast and writes about kitchen gardening and environmental issues. An edible plant geek, she tries to grow her own food sustainably with the help of a reluctant husband and two pet chickens. Visit http://coopette.com for more information.
Vermicomposting is a very easy and efficient process. Once you've set up the bin and settled the worms, very little maintenance is required. You should check on the worms at least every couple of weeks to make sure they're happy in their environment. You may find that the pH sinks too low (the bin becomes too acidic) and the worms try to escape. A handful or two of garden lime, or some crushed eggshells, will help to keep them happy.If you get little flies in your wormery, try wrapping your
kitchen waste in newspaper before you add it, or place a layer of newspaper over the surface of the waste in the wormery.Make sure there's enough moisture in the waste, and that
the drainage is working properly and the water level in the bin is not rising. And keep your worms at a comfortable temperature; they can overheat in summer and freeze in winter, just like us!
Crushed eggshells added to your wormery will balance the pH and keep the worms happy.
by Isabelle Lemay, agr. and Mélissa Léveillé
Precise and Stable: CO2 Concentration
in the Garden
Of course, this is only a theory, but it clearly exposes the importance of CO
2 for the optimal growth of the plants.
Fortunately, there are ways to provide the needed CO2 to plants
that are more precise and practical! The following article will allow you to better understand the causes of the variable CO
2
concentration in the garden as well as the different ways to control it.
Some believe that talking to plants helps them grow better. This theory is based on the power of waves and positive thoughts, but there is certainly an explanation that is more mundane to this phenomenon. When one knows that a human exhales at a CO
2 concentration between 30,000 and 40,000
ppm, it is easy to assume that gossiping with the plants provides them with a high quantity of CO
2 essential to photosynthesis.
94 MAXIMUM YIELD USA - February 2010
The influence of human activityAs the exterior air generally influences the garden’s
atmosphere, it is important to understand the exterior CO2
concentration variations. Many factors affect the composition of the air, but one in particular has a noticeable impact: human activity. According to the measurements of an air sampling global network (NOAA/ESRL's Global Monitoring Division), the average international CO
2 concentration in November
2009 was near 390 parts per million (ppm). Such a low level is often observed in limited human activity zones, but rarely in the city where industries, vehicles and numerous other CO
2
sources (often combined to the effects of smog) will increase the concentration to variable levels.The diagram below shows the CO
2 concentration variation
in an urban region over a 48 hour period. We observe that the concentration varies on a range of approximately 150 ppm in the same day, so about 400 ppm to 550 ppm. The maximal concentration is reached between 8:00 and 10:00 in the morning, probably due to rush hour. Then, it tumbles down in the afternoon, perhaps caused by the surrounding vegetation. It is difficult to identify the exact causes of CO
2
level variations but certainly, it is real and it has to be taken in consideration in the garden!
CO2 concentration variations in the gardenIn the microclimate created within the sheltered garden,
numerous causes explain the variation of CO2 concentration,
such as the plant’s photosynthesis and respiration processes, but also the exchange with exterior air. Each of these causes must be taken into consideration and be well understood to conserve an ideal CO
2 concentration.
Co2 measurements in salt lake City (murray) over 48 hours
reference: http://co2.utah.edu/ (2009-11-17 09:00)
“A human exhales at a Co2 concentration between 30,000 and
40,000 ppm.”
96 MAXIMUM YIELD USA - February 2010
Precise and Stable CO2 Concentration in the Garden
Photosynthesis and RespirationThe vegetal growth depends on photosynthesis, a process that
happens in the presence of light and during which the plant absorbs CO
2 to transform it in cells and tissues. To reach the
maximal photosynthesis level, most of the plants need a CO2
concentration between 700 and 1000 ppm. It is important to know that in the absence of CO
2 enrichment or ventilation,
fast grown plants may easily consume all the available CO2 in
the garden, and this, within a few hours only (depending on the plant’s density). For example, a CO
2 concentration between 400
and 1000 ppm can easily go down to 340 ppm within an hour or two in the presence of light, and even down to 150 ppm if the luminosity is important. With such results, it is obvious that the garden needs CO
2 enrichment, for example, with combustion
CO2 generators or again, with regulated CO
2 bottles. For lack
of CO2 enrichment, the air in the garden should minimally be
exchanged with exterior air, although this method does not generally allow an optimal concentration for growth.In dark periods, the CO
2 concentration naturally increases
in the garden. Why? Because in the absence of light, photosynthesis stops; the plant does not consume CO
2 anymore,
but continues with the respiration process, meaning the plant consumes the oxygen and rejects the CO
2. It is then unnecessary
to enrich the air with CO2 during the dark period. At the end
of a period without light, the CO2 concentration may reach
between 400 to 1000 ppm, depending on a plant’s density, environmental conditions and how airtight the garden is.
“To reach the maximal photosynthesis level,
most plants need a Co2 concentration between 700
and 1,000 ppm.”
97MAXIMUM YIELD USA - February 2010
Exchange with exterior airIt is important to consider the exchanges with exterior
air. If one chooses not to enrich the garden with CO2, the
ventilation has to be sufficient to provide the plant with a maximum of CO
2. If one chooses to enrich the garden with
CO2, it is important to minimize the exchanges with outside
air; in this particular case, leaks of air and ventilation will contribute to the drop of CO
2 concentration in the garden.
Minimal ventilation is still recommended. Even if it makes the CO
2 level slightly drop in the garden, it allows the plants
to benefit from oxygen and also ensures the gardener’s safety. CO
2 concentration over 1200 ppm can degrade lucidity
and lead to various discomforts; exceeding 6000 ppm, the gardener may even pass out.
“In the case of too high concentrations, the excess of Co2 is wasted and can even be harmful to the plants and
persons working in the garden.”
98 MAXIMUM YIELD USA - February 2010
Precise and Stable CO2 Concentration in the Garden
CO2 managementIn a garden enriched with CO
2, a controller is an essential
tool to maintain an optimal CO2 concentration for the plants.
Unfortunately, some choose to use a timer to periodically activate the enrichment equipment. Although it is less expensive than a controller, a timer is an inaccurate method that does not
allow the desired CO2 concentration in
the garden to be reached and maintained. The adjustment of the timer is usually an estimate calculated according to the volume size of the garden and type of enrichment equipment. But this estimate
cannot include all other factors that influence the
CO2 concentration, such as
the plant’s consumption, air leaks or the ventilation. This way, unknown and approximated CO
2 concentrations
are obtained, which are rarely the ones plants’ need. In the case of too high concentrations, the excess of CO
2 is wasted and
can even be harmful to the plants and persons working in the garden. Sad conclusion: the sums invested to enrich will probably not bring the expected results in return.The controller is much better than the timer. With a built-in
infrared sensor, which permanently measures the CO2 with
high precision, the controller activates and stops the enrichment equipment to maintain the concentration as close as possible to the value selected by the user. CO
2 is added only when the
concentration goes below the set point and the controller stops the equipment when the concentration exceeds the set point. This way, we obtain an ideal concentration, stable, without waste or worries for the plants!To be really effective, the controller must be installed to a
location that represents the cultural environment. For example, it is recommended to avoid placing the controller too close to the ventilation system or the CO
2 source. The superior part of the
plants is usually the best location to measure the CO2 level since
it is at this location that the photosynthetic activity is maximal.
99MAXIMUM YIELD USA - February 2010
To summarize, the best way to maintain the ideal CO2
concentration in the garden is to use a controller, combined with CO
2 enrichment equipment such as a combustion
CO2 generator or a regulated CO
2 bottle. It is also important
to maintain good management of the ventilation, meaning sufficiently venting the garden to provide the plants with the needed oxygen, while minimizing CO
2 waste. In addition,
enriching the garden with CO2 during dark periods should be
avoided since plants only absorb it in the presence of light. For the ones that choose not to enrich with CO
2, it is essential to
provide frequent ventilation with exterior air to maintain an acceptable CO
2 level to the plants. In this case, having frequent
chats with the plants will certainly help!
Light Sensor
Automatic Differential
Combined Controller
Interesting features to consider whenpurchasing a CO2 controller
Since adding CO2 is useless in dark periods, even harmful, it mightbe interesting to opt for a controller equipped with a light sensor thatcan be set to enrich in the presence of light only. No more need tosynchronize the enrichment with the lamps or with the sunrise andsunset.
The differential represents the CO2 concentration variation aroundthe set point. We can also say that it is the different range betweenthe value at which the controller deactivates the enrichmentequipment and the one where the controller activates the equipment.In the case of an automatic differential (optimized), the controllerautomatically modifies the differential’s value in order to narrow therange around the desired set point. This feature allows the growerto obtain a more stable and precise concentration.
It is common to want to enrich a cultural environment with CO2 that ispartially vented. In order to avoid waisting CO2, it is better to avoidenriching while the venting equipment is running. Some controllers,called combined controllers, allow you to intelligently manage morethan one piece of equipment at once, for example by avoidingopposite actions, such as the enrichment and ventilation, to besimutaneously activated.
For additional articles on climate controllers, visit maximumyield.com and search
Isabelle Lemay, agr. and Mélissa Léveillé in our author archive.
MY
"Enriching the garden with Co2 during dark periods
should be avoided."
100 MAXIMUM YIELD USA - February 2010
YOU TELL US
Maximum Yield (MY): It’s been noted that LEDs are great as supplemental lighting only. What is your response to this?
Stealth Grow (SG) LEDs should be used as a primary lighting source. SG LED panels function great all on their own. The key is that Stealth Grow lights have the necessary power along with quad-band spectrum, meaning we build our lights using four different types of LED chips to achieve a broad and complete light spectrum. Many LED grow lights use only two LED chips, a red and a blue, and thus do not support the entirety of the light requirements of the plant.While red and blue spectrum light is most necessary for plant growth and flowering, they are not the only colors that a plant needs. Stealth Grow incorporates full spectrum light of the color temperature 2,700 degrees Kelvin, (the same as a T-5 fluorescent bloom light), and we also use high band red LEDs. This quad-band approach provides the plants exactly what they need to flourish without wasting energy as heat.
Jordan Scott (right) of Stealth Grow demystifies LED technology in this exclusive interview with Maximum Yield.
Jordan Scott
MY: What proof do you have that LEDs can out-compete the myriad lighting options available to indoor gardeners? How do they compare?
We have a ton of science, theories, charts and graphs to back up our claims, but the real proof is in the plants. Ask any grower who has used Stealth Grow LEDs and they will tell you we are the real deal. Used in indoor gardening settings, our lights have consistently produced results equal to that of a 1000 watt HPS. Stealth Grow set out to create a replacement for the 1000 watt HPS bulb and that is exactly what we did.
MY: What visible and measurable results have you found with the StealthGrow LEDs?
The Stealth Grow product line has gone through significant testing and changes. We have carefully monitored the effects that various combinations of spectrums and intensities have on plant growth and those results are represented in our current lights. We have found that our newest model SG 602 consistently performs within five per cent of the yield of a 1000 watt HPS. Also, the quality and the density of the flowers have been as good if not better. These results have been seen through our own testing and the responses we have heard from the many growers who are using Stealth Grow products.We are working on putting together a grower’s journal for
our website. We will provide case studies that we have done and
101MAXIMUM YIELD USA - February 2010
The SG 1202 is essentially two 602s on one, elongated panel. The most significant advantage of the SG 1202 is its penetrating power. The SG 1202 maintains its high intensity even at a distance of six feet away from foliage. This means that flowers on the bottoms of tall plants are receiving enough light to form density and mass.Both the SG 602 and 1202 perform excellently in the vegetative
stage of growth. However, growers who run a continuous cycle and have a vegetative light on at all times should consider our SG 602 Veg. This light has done phenomenally well outperforming a 1000 watt MH in all instances.
If you would like to have your product featured in "You Tell Us," please contact
[email protected] or give us a call at 250 729 2677
MY
are encouraging all our customers to send us their own results along with any pictures. We are also currently doing a time-lapse growth comparison between an SG 602 and a 1000 watt HPS. All this is still in the works but look for it on the website in a month or two. MY: What are the environmental advantages to LEDs?
The most obvious environmental advantage to LEDs is that they are extremely energy efficient, using only two to 10 watts of electricity. LEDs last for years, saving the user energy in maintenance and replacement costs. Not only that, but LEDs also reduce the need for cooling equipment in the grow room because they do not cause heat build-up, producing just 3.4 BTU’s per hour. Lastly, LEDs are mercury free, and recyclable!
MY: Tell me about the product options available from StealthGrow. How might a grower choose between them?
Stealth Grow LED has three core products: the SG 602, SG 1202 and the SG 602 Veg. The SG 602 is our flagship product and the one best suited as a replacement for a 1000 watt HPS.
Carbon is the number one element required to grow plant tissue, and it is ‘inhaled’ by plants from the air in the form of CO
2 gas.
The entire process of assimilating carbon from CO2 into plant
tissue while plants are exposed to light is called photosynthesis.Think of plants as hungry for CO
2; they are constantly hoard-
ing carbon at a level that is over 10,000 times the amount found in the air (350 ppm or 0.0035 per cent). Plants grow by assimi-lating, reducing or fixing CO
2 into carbohydrates, but in all that
carbon-hoarding and photosynthetic-processing, where are the teeth located?
RuBisCOThe enzyme known as Ribulose Bisphosphate Carboxylase,
or RuBisCO, may be the closest thing plants have to teeth. This enzyme grabs CO
2 gas molecules and attaches them to a five
carbon sugar molecule, thereby, assimilating more carbon atoms into the Calvin Cycle (see figure one). It fixes a molecule of CO
2 to another five carbon sugar (ribulose) making a new six
by Peter Vakomies
Figure 1. The Calvin Cycle - where the teeth of photosynthesis are. RuBisCO is the place where carbon enters the food chain. Note the wasteful process called photorespiration occurring when too much oxygen reaches RuBisCO.
A Few Points about Carbon Fertilization
It seems obvious enough that plants don't have teeth; but plants must perform the same processes that animals do to grow – they must get carbon, and lots of it. Like all life on Earth, plants are carbon-based. In fact, carbon constitutes the majority of all dried plant biomass, about 45 per cent. We chew food to extract carbon from its source while plants assimilate carbon from the air.
Plants Have No Teeth...or Do They?
102 MAXIMUM YIELD USA - February 2010
103MAXIMUM YIELD USA - February 2010
carbon sugar every time it cycles through its enzymatic func-tion. Considering the super low CO
2 concentration of 0.0035
per cent present on Earth today, RuBisCO has essentially chewed most of the carbon out of the atmosphere and fixed it into plants.By grabbing a single CO
2 molecule out of the air every 0.3
seconds, every RuBisCO enzyme is at the heart of the pho-tosynthesis machinery. This is a ‘chewing rate’ of around three molecules of CO
2 per second, which is quite slow compared
to most other enzymes. Because of its abundance and essential role in life, the RuBisCO enzyme also happens to be the most abundant protein on earth. If you could extract the whole biosphere's protein to make a giant Earth-smoothie-protein-shake, RuBisCO alone would make up over 50 per cent of the total protein.
RuBisCO is a large complex molecule (figure two), which in more advanced plants is built from 16 separate sub-units form-ing an amazingly complex protein structure. It is located in the chlorophyll-containing organelles (chloroplasts) found inside every green plant and algae cell. RuBisCO is a miracle of nature that has been evolving since life began - a true protein nano-machine that drives all life on Earth.The enzyme does not restrict its diet to CO
2 alone; it will also
'chew' on oxygen molecules, which slows photosynthetic yields. There are eight locations for CO
2 to bind to in each RuBisCO
enzyme, and these are also able to bind oxygen molecules. For this reason, RuBisCO is located in an oxygen-reduced environment inside plant cells and tucked away inside chloro-plasts. Chloroplasts contain dense accumulations of the large enzyme in patches; in some algae there are super complexes of RuBisCO accumulated into structures called pyrenoids.
Figure 2. A model for the structure of RuBisCO in chloroplasts from higher plants. RuBisCO consists of eight large (L) and eight small (S) subunits arranged as four dimers. Small subunits are shown in red (only four of the small subunits are seen); large subunits are shown in blue and green, in order to show the boundaries of the dimers.
104 MAXIMUM YIELD USA - February 2010
When light shines on green chlo-rophyll pigments, the energy of PAR photons is captured by plants in a way that is similar to charging a battery; after chlorophyll molecules trap photons of PAR, light energy is stored in high-energy mol-ecules called ATP and NADPH. We need to mention phytochemistry since the teeth of photo-synthesis cannot chew at all without being fuelled by ATP and NADPH. The part of photosynthe-sis involving chlorophyll is called photochemistry, the light-dependant reactions of photosynthesis. But our focus here is on the light-indepen-dent part of photosynthesis, also known as the Calvin Cycle, involving RuBisCO - the sup-posed plant teeth (figure three). The products of photochem-istry are a charge of 'reducing power' used up by RuBisCO
sealed greenhouse or grow room will be assimilated starting the moment after dawn when light becomes bright enough. From a typical concentration of 350 ppm CO
2 in the air, CO
2 can drop
to 160 ppm in under two hours. This will stop plant growth by starving their cells' RuBisCO enzymes of their favorite thing to chew on. At this point oxygen can even out-compete the reduced levels of CO
2 and cause photorespiration
(figure one) - a wasteful use of captured light energy, sending the plant's teeth to chatter and chew on junk food.
The Mouth and Teeth Working TogetherRuBisCO runs on the energy captured from light in the growing environ-ment. In a discussion about feeding plants CO
2, we must remember how
photochemistry first makes power for RuBisCO to operate. In addition to needing bright light, photosynthesis requires water, correct temperature, adequate mineral nutrition and proper humidity. If any of these environmental variables change, photochemistry and CO
2 assimilation are affected, and like-
wise, growth rates.
Discoveries with unicellular algae have shown just how localized the teeth can be; in efforts to concentrate CO
2 around
RuBisCO when CO2 becomes depleted,
some algal plants will make RuBisCO only on one side of the chloroplast - meaning only one half has teeth and can actually grab CO
2, while the other
half actually has no teeth and acts as a reservoir of Calvin Cycle intermediates, shunting the required substrates to the side with teeth. This is a mechanism to compensate for depleted CO
2 when O2
becomes a competing substrate, unique to some algae.But back in the greenhouse, imagine
starving a crop of CO2. CO
2 in a well
Plants Have No Teeth - Or Do They?
Figure 3. Photosynthesis has two parts - the teeth are in the Calvin Cycle.
Figure 4. Anatomy of Stomata - The brown colored parts are the guard cells. Notice the abundant and flaky wax deposits (grey-green).
Figure 4 at the microscopic level. Alternate/second picture of 'mouth-like' stomata.
105MAXIMUM YIELD USA - February 2010
to drive CO2 fixa-
tion. So without a fully charged battery from being in bright light, a plant does not have enough ATP
or NADPH to oper-ate RuBisCO and CO
2
uptake grinds to a tiny fraction of what is possible.Imagine clonal lines of
plants growing with ample light in an ideal state of
fertigation, temperature and humidity; let's say they have
moist, fertigated soil, it is noon on a sunny day at 72°F soil and
an air temperature with 67 per cent relative humidity. On this
perfect day, what is going on that enables plants to uptake CO
2 for
growth? We've got the image of photosynthetic teeth chewing CO
2
out of the air, but we must not forget how there is a 'mouth' that also affects photosynthetic rates in plants - this would be the stomata that are all over green tissues on plants (figure four).On this perfect, sunny day, at the ana-
tomically minute scale of the plant-cell,
Figure 5. Measuring Stomatal Conductance with an Infrared Gas Analyzer (IRGA) and porometer. When combined into one machine, this kind of device can accurately measure the millimoles of water vapor and CO2 gas leaving and entering a leaf per second. The amount of water vapor detected leaving the leaf is divided by an estimate of stomatal aperture or by leaf area, to give the measurement called stomatal conductance.
imagine wandering through a stomata and drifting deep inside the leaves, where we'd find it is sopping wet, and that plants are always trying to keep them-selves inflated with water pressure (plant turgor). Leaves are organs that need to remain open to exchange gasses with the
106 MAXIMUM YIELD USA - February 2010
atmosphere, but they must also maintain a saturated, 100 per cent relative humid-ity inside themselves. This happens using tiny pores called stomata that open and close by action of guard cells (figure four). And, since most of the surface of mature leaves is coated with a wax that seals the leaf from outside air, the main way in and out of a leaf is through the stomata, and plants keep turgid by regulating the stomatal water loss. Water vapor leaving the plant can be conserved by closing the stomata, which happens under drought conditions to prevent wilting - the 'mouths' close and carbon feeding also ceases.
In these ideal sunny conditions when the plants are not stressed, the stomata are wide open and CO
2 can enter the leaf.
This happens by diffusion through the air - while water vapor is pouring out of
the plant by transpiring, CO2 is entering
through the same stomata. This process is also known as stomatal conductance, measuring how much water vapor, CO
2
and O2 can pass through the pores on
the leaf surface (figure five). Once CO2
gas has diffused into a leaf through sto-mata, and into a plant cell, the enzyme RuBisCO immediately fixes it into car-bohydrates (CH
2Os), and this clears the
way for more CO2 to diffuse in.
As nature would have it, light is criti-cal for keeping stomata open, and plants close their stomata in darkness. Anthro-pomorphizing this image of 'chewing plants' just a little further, stomata in the grow room might be considered billions of tiny mouths that open up immediately, as soon as the lights turn on, allow-ing carbon to flow into the leaf. Under conditions of high temperature, drought or water stress, stomata will close more and more, gradually starving the plant of carbon. There are evolutionary reasons for these responses by stomata; however, any closure will limit the CO
2 that plants
can feed off of. Certain plant species have adapted methods of gulping big mouthfuls of CO
2 before the heat of the
day causes them to close their stomata.
Plants Have No Teeth - Or Do They?
Figure 6a (top). Diagram to show how C4 and CAM plants can 'gulp' CO2 and concentrate this for RuBisCO (RuBp Carboxylase' to chew with less interference from oxygen.Figure 6b (above). Scanning electron microscopy (left panel) and immunological localization of RuBisCO (right panel) in a photosynthetic cell of the single cell C4 species Suaeda aralocaspica (aka sweep weed and seablights) showing the RuBisCO-containing chloroplasts (orange) are restricted to the proximal end of cell (right panel). (Images by Elena Voznesenskaya and Vince Franceschi)
These are the C4 and CAM type plants with specialized leaf anatomies and they also have specialized cellular metabolism allowing them to stash CO
2, and in some
species their teeth are concentrated into specific inner areas of the leaf (see figures six and seven).After considering how the stomata and
RuBisCO work to get CO2 into a plant
to become CH2Os, we can find out
what CO2 level is optimal to increase
plant growth, but it takes some tweak-ing of all growing inputs. As mentioned, any condition that closes stomata inhibits growth; so in fact all our growth inputs of high temperatures, excessive CO
2 levels,
drought and light intensity will all inhibit plant growth just by closing stomata.Optimal CO
2 fertilization requires that
a warm meal be delivered with gravy - an increase in mineral fertilization. Like too much food of any kind, excessive CO
2 is also a problem to the mouth and
teeth of photosynthesis. In plants, a large imbalance in growth occurs from feeding too much CO
2 which happens since the
molecular shape of the plant hormone called abscissic acid (ABA) and the CO
2
“Stomata in the grow room might be considered billions of tiny mouths that
open up immediately, as soon as the lights turn on,
allowing carbon to flow into the leaf.”
107MAXIMUM YIELD USA - February 2010
molecule's shape are similar. The plant hormone called abscissic acid is the one that controls stomatal closing under chang-ing environmental conditions. Excessive CO
2 fools the guard
cell into sensing ABA is present and plants close their stomatal openings when CO
2 exceeds tolerable amounts. Therefore, fer-
tilizing with too much CO2 can reduce photosynthesis directly
by closing the plants' mouths. But there is another response to over-feeding with CO
2 that affects the teeth directly- plants
make less RuBisCO enzymes as they adapt to long term, exces-sive CO
2 in the grow room. So when growing under too much
CO2, plants shut their mouths and actually make fewer photo-
synthetic teeth to chew and grow with.
Figure 7. C4 and Cam plants pictures and diagrams
MY
Plants cool their tissues by opening their stomata wide, and by allowing more water to evaporate and transpire, which lowers the leaf's temperature. This happens until too much drought occurs, and it becomes a priority to conserve water. However, if raising the temperature to 77°F from 72°F is just enough to cause the plants to keep their stomata open and increase cooling, then this also allows for the most CO
2 possible to enter inside the leaf cells
where RuBisCO is already assimilating CO2 at its maximum
rate. Under these ideal conditions, truly monstrous growth rates can occur - all mouths are agape, hanging wide and the teeth of photosynthesis are churning all available CO
2 into carbohydrates
at maximum speed, only the atmosphere is the limit!
ReferencesThe Regulation of RuBisCO Activity in Response to Varia-tion in Temperature and Atmospheric CO2 Partial Pressure in Sweet Potato, Plant Physiology 139:979-990 (2005). The Intracellular Localization of Ribulose-1,5-Bisphosphate Carboxylase/Oxygenase in Chlamydomonas reinhardtii, Plant Physiology 116: 1585-1591 (1998).
Handbook of Photosynthesis, By Mohammad Pessarakli. Published by Marcel Dekker, 1996.
108 MAXIMUM YIELD USA - February 2010
Healthy eating is a major concern for most people. Some people claim that wheat grass should be included in a healthy diet. Wheat grass refers to the young grass of the common wheat plant and can be pressed into juice for immediate consumption or dried into powder tablets that can last indefinitely if frozen.There are ongoing debates as to the
nutritional properties of wheat grass. Neither Maximum Yield nor myself endorse the consumption of wheat grass in juice or tablet form for the treatment to any diseases or disorders. Ann Wigman, one of the early pioneers of wheat grass, made claims that drinking wheat grass could cure AIDS and was later sued as a result. Ann Wigman originally claimed in the 1940s that she had cured herself of cancer by drinking the juices of different weeds she found in vacant lots in Boston.
She has founded the former Hippocrates Institute and the Ann Wigmore foundation and has also written books on how to grow wheat grass and the health benefits of sprouts.Some of the more realistic health claims
about wheat grass are as follows:• gives you more energy• improves sleep• improves the digestive system• detoxifies heavy metals from the blood
stream• promotes general well-being• strengthens immune systemFor these results it
is said that one must harvest at the time when the wheat grass is at its nutritional peek. It is also claimed that the wheat grass will lose its potency if the juices are
not consumed within three hours of its harvest.As far as nutrition is
concerned, wheat grass has a multitude of different components that are beneficial to humans. Wheat grass contains many amino acids. Some are vital to muscle and brain function such as Alanine. Alanine also improves the immune system, because it is
by Matt LeBannister
Grow Your Own Wheat GrassIndoors
used to make the antibodies, which fight off disease and infection in our bodies. Another essential amino acid found in wheat grass is Asparic acid. Asperic acid removes ammonia from the blood stream and can increase endurance.Wheat grass juice is known to contain a
number of different vitamins. Vitamin C is found in wheat grass and is generally believed to bolster the immune system and promote general well being. Pregnant women are encouraged to increase their daily intake of vitamin C to increase the baby’s immune response. It is also a
known antioxidant.Vitamin E is
also found in wheat grass and is another antioxidant.
Antioxidants protect our cells against “free radicals,” which damage our DNA. These “free radicals” are believed to cause the aging process in humans.Vitamin B9 is found in wheat grass as
well as folic acid, used for the production and maintenance of new cells. Folic acid is also recommended for women during pregnancy to prevent birth defects.There are a variety of trace minerals
present in wheat grass. Boron can be found which improves brain function. Calcium is available and is used in the making and maintaining of healthy,
Your wheat grass planting kit can include grow mediums such as rockwool, coir, potting soil or even a cotton seedling mat, shown here.
“Claims suggest wheat grass will lose its potency if the
juices are not consumed within three hours of harvest.”
109MAXIMUM YIELD USA - February 2010
strong teeth and bones. Iron is present and is a major component of oxygen carrying red-blood cells. Zinc is another trace element found in wheat grass and supports a healthy immune system.One major reason people consume
wheat grass is for the high levels of chlorophyll found in it. There are many claims about what chlorophyll can do for the human body. Many people believe that it has healing qualities and is high in antioxidants. However, others claim that chlorophyll cannot be properly absorbed by our stomachs and is therefore useless to consume.Now that the nutrition behind wheat
grass is better understood, one can make the decision as to whether wheat grass will be a good addition to their healthy diet. People wishing to add wheat grass to their diet will be able to grow it easily and affordably at home. To do this, all one needs is a supply of wheat grass seeds, a tray with holes and one without for drainage, some growing medium and some fluorescent lights or a sunny window sill.
Growing Wheat GrassThe first step is to soak the wheat grass seeds in water for two to eight hours prior to planting. This allows the seeds to take up some water and will speed up the germination process. The seeds should be placed in the dark while they are being soaked.During this time one should prepare
the preferred medium for planting. If you have chosen to use a seedling pad made of
cotton, rockwool or coco coir, it is good to soak the medium for two to eight hours prior to planting. This allows the medium to safely adjust its pH levels, because some mediums can be acidic or alkaline. Soil or potting mix can be used and is actually more forgiving when it comes to pH levels than other available mediums.Now that the medium and seeds are
ready for planting, one can sow the seeds. The soaked seeds should be spread evenly over the surface of the medium so that
the seeds are touching each other, but not so much that they are overlapping one another. If you choose
to use soil or a loose potting mix, some of the medium should be spread over the seeds to keep the light off of them. Seeds germinate poorly when exposed to the light. If choosing to use a cotton seedling pad or other hydroponic medium, the tray containing the seeds could be lightly dusted with vermiculite or simply kept in the dark for the first couple days.The first couple days after germination
there won’t be much to do in terms of caring for your wheat grass. The gardener must watch the temperature if using a heating mat to speed up germination. If temperature goes above 32°C the seeds can become dormant. Misting the medium once a day should provide enough moisture to promote healthy growth. Too much moisture combined with heat and darkness can be an instant recipe for mould. To combat this, any cover should be removed at least once a day to allow fresh air to reach the seedlings.
Affordable and easily grown at home, the growth progression of wheat grass is quite quick. Expect to see seeds germinating in a couple of days (left). Within three days following germination, shoots are growing and the grass is craving sunlight (centre). Approximately seven to 10 days after planting, the wheat grass will reach its nutritional peak and is ready to harvest (right).
A couple days after planting the wheat grass shoots will have appeared and will be craving sunlight. At this time, the seeds no longer need the darkness. Putting the tray under some fluorescent lights or on a sunny windowsill will work just fine. The wheat grass will increase production of chlorophyll and nutrients steadily over the next five to seven days of growth until reaching the nutritional peak. This important moment in the wheat grass’s life happens approximately seven to 10 days after planting or when the wheat grass is 17 to 27 centimetres tall. This is the ideal time to harvest. It is commonly believed that for wheat grass to be effective it must be consumed within three hours of harvest. To harvest the wheat grass simply trim the grass three to five centimetres above the medium. The wheat grass will grow back if done properly allowing for a second harvest in a week’s time.Growing wheat grass for the first time
can be a little tricky for any gardener. All plants need love and care to survive. With experience, even the beginner gardener will find that keeping a continuous supply of wheat grass in their home can be easy and affordable.
Additional benefits and uses of wheat
grass can be found at maximumyield.com
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“Trace amounts of boron, calcium, iron and zinc are all found in wheat grass, which
improve overall health.”
ReferencesKoha, Loretta Harmony. Ann Wigmore Wheat Grass Pioneer, Living Food Educator.
110 MAXIMUM YIELD USA - February 2010
GREEN THUMBgardening
Urban Renewal Through Agriculture
The term Urban Agriculture is largely associated with community farms and gardens that are operated for small-scale production, recreational and social purposes. While this type of urban agriculture is extremely beneficial to local communities through community building, food education and youth development, rising global trends require that we expand this momentum to include a commercial urban agricultural movement.
requiring world food production to double by 2050 according to the UN. Our current food system is already unsustainable with one in six people going hungry today, and will be even less capable of supporting the world’s demand in coming years.Urban agriculture has the potential to fundamentally change
our food system from the large scale, centralized, rural production it is today, to a distributed network of local production using innovative technological solutions.Technologies such as hydroponics exist today and can be
readily used in urban buildings, creating local jobs and often rehabilitating areas of urban blight. Some hydroponic methods require sunlight, and so necessitate greenhouse or rooftop locations. However, a growing number of products use even more controlled environments and artificial lighting, and can therefore fill the interiors of buildings, creating much more reliable and large scale production opportunities. Some of these
With over 75 per cent of the US population living in urban centers, and the rest of the world following a similar path of urbanization, our traditional food system of centralized, rural production with long transportation distances is no longer a sustainable model. Rising fuel costs and impending carbon legislation will result in increased transportation costs, which will be compounded by end-markets moving further away from the point of production. Centralized production represents a threat to food security, as a single disease or storm can destroy an entire crop or farm. This same concept applies to food safety, in which centralized production increases the risk of spreading disease. These are just a few of the problems the supply side of the food chain faces, and these problems will only worsen with time.On the demand side, consumers are getting smarter. They want
to buy local, fresh and pesticide-free foods, and they want to buy it all year round. The number of consumers is rapidly rising,
by Ed Harwood and Jessica Bloomgarden
technologies boast yield efficiencies of up to 100 times that of conventional growing methods. Each technology fills a niche that could provide a broad array of produce year round in urban settings. With lower transportation costs, integrated pest management and increased yield from these technologies, urban farmers can operate much more profitable farms while more fully satisfying consumer preferences.Early adopters are starting to emerge with plans to transform
cities from Detroit to Brockton, MA, into commercial urban farms. They believe in the possibility of urban renewal through agriculture by creating jobs for local residents, supplying fresh and safe produce for local families and transforming urban blight and decay into productive and clean environments. Other cities and entrepreneurs would do well to evaluate their
own urban agriculture opportunities. This industry is ready for its future leaders to come forward and usher in this much needed movement.
About the AuthorsDr. Ed Harwood is founder and chief executive officer of AeroFarms. Ed previously served as associate director of Cornell Cooperative Extension for Agriculture. Prior to that, Ed served as CEO of Topline Waikato, Inc.
Jessica Bloomgarden is the chief marketing officer of AeroFarms. Jessica previously served as principal at 21Ventures, a clean technology venture capital fund, and prior to that worked at JPMorgan in the Technology Invest-ment Banking Group, where she helped build the firm’s Cleantech practice.
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112 MAXIMUM YIELD USA - February 2010
Introducing Cobra from Cash CropCash Crop Cobra is a combination of many different beneficial bacteria and fungi species, which assist a plant’s growth by stimulating a massive root mass. Cobra also helps the plant tolerate temperature extremes, nutrient imbalances and drought.Cobra contains 60 different strains of
micro-organisms, 29 carefully selected beneficial fungi, nine endomycorrhizal, 11 ectomycorrhizal fungi and 19 strains of trichoderma bacteria. These micro-organisms colonize the plant’s roots and stimulate the roots to grow into the surrounding medium, greatly enhancing the absorptive surface area of the root system and forming an essential link between plant and medium. Also included is a specially formulated root bio-stimulant, vitamins C and B1, kelp and humates. The plant will enjoy improved nutrient and water uptake and enhanced disease resistance.Cobra is the most effective high quality product in the
marketplace today, creating an optimum growing medium and plant growth conditions. Ask for Cobra at your local indoor gardening store.
House & Garden Drip CleanHouse & Garden Drip Clean is an extremely useful agent for anyone working with a drip or aeroponic system. Drip Clean works like a magnet, removing dirt particles so that the piping remains clean. It gives plants a boost, improving their greenness and vitality.Drip Clean is a 100 per cent safe agent
for your plants provided it is used in the correct proportion. It contains potassium and phosphorus compounds, two very powerful and useful elements in the nutritional plan of the plant.Drip Clean can be added to the nutrient
container during the entire life of the garden, and should be added from the
very first day of growth. Drip Clean will not work with a drip system that is already clogged. Drip Clean is available now from your local retail hydro dealer.
PRODUCTspotlight at your favorite indoor gardening store.See it. Want it. Find it.
Flame DefenderThere are many electrical devices in today’s indoor growing environments. Power strips, CO2 generators, heat mats, lights, light movers, reservoir heaters, fans, pumps, etc.; and all of these devices can malfunction and cause a fire. Protect yourself, your growing environment and your home. Install a Flame Defender™ today!• Self contained – no plumbing or wiring required.• Simply install by attaching vertically to the wall or ceiling.• Automatic – extinguishing agent is automatically
dispensed if the temperature probe on the unit reaches 155°F.
• Multi-purpose dry chemical extinguisher.• Rated for A, B and C.• Suitable for electrical fires.• Discharges a hemispherical spray pattern in area under
sprinkler.• Available in three sizes to fit a variety of applications.
For more information on the Flame Defender, visit your local indoor gardening retailer.
Continued from page 40
113MAXIMUM YIELD USA - February 2010
Alaska Pure by Nutrifield®Alaska Pure is a complete flowering enhancer containing rich sources of potassium, natural plant growth hormones and 17 amino acids. It’s your ultimate organic potash. Potassium directly affects the production of chlorophyll while regulating stomata opening. This improves the plant's ability to breath. Potassium is also an essential for the storage and movement of carbohydrates in plants. Carbohydrates are essential to produce higher brix (sugar) levels as to maximize the weight of your yield.Alaska Pure is an exceptional source of auxins, cytokinins
and gibberellins. These all–natural hormones promote rapid cell division allowing the plant to uptake larger amounts of nutrient while improving its resistance to disease and pest infestation. Alaska Pure contains over 60 minerals with exceptionally high chelating ability. The unique formula also provides frost resistance and is able to deliver stress relief to unhealthy plants. Alaska Pure can be added to your reservoir with your nutrient solution or can be used as a foliar spray. For more information, please visit your local indoor gardening shop.
Fulife by Nutrifield®Fulife maximizes yields by improving your plants’ metabolic processes. It is derived from organic carbon allowing for faster growth due to improved photosynthesis. Fulife conditions soils and will improve stomata openings allowing for better plant respiration and transpiration, while helping the growth of beneficial micro-organisms. Fulife does not increase the salt index of your system. Therefore, there is little effect on osmotic potential (salt build-up) allowing the plant’s water uptake to remain unaffected. Fulife enables you to run significantly lower electrical conductivity (EC) without affecting nutrient absorption.Fulife is an organic electrolyte. Electrolytes are soluble
particles that can effectively conduct an electrical current in liquid and plant substrates. The electrical activity serves to convert silica and metallic elements into easily absorbable plant food, while at the same time increasing the nutrient’s chelating speed. Plants respond by being able to take up previously unavailable elements leading to nutritionally satisfied healthy plants. For more information, please visit your local hydroponics retailer.
Plug’N’Grow Presents the Heavy Duty Liquid CO2 Regulator The iGS-Regulator enriches your garden with CO2 without generating heat.
• CO2 flows up to 50 SCFH; 2.5 to three times the maximum flow offered by competing products.
• Ideal for grow rooms from 650 to 7500 cubic feet.• Features a heater to avoid regulator and valve freezing at
high CO2 flow.• Includes an industrial solenoid valve from ASCOTM,
North American-made continuous duty and a life expectancy of 20,000,000 cycles.
• Works with any CO2 controller with a standard 110 to 120 volts, three-pronged outlet.
• Standard connection for CO2 bottle and possibility to connect to multiple bottles.
• Reliable and long lasting, covered by Plug’N’Grow’s three years warranty.
For more details, please visit an indoor gardening store near you.
114 MAXIMUM YIELD USA - February 2010
Introducing ORCA Grow FilmORCA Grow Film brings the latest reflective microfiber technology to the hydroponic market. ORCA’s patent pending white plastic microfiber
structure effectively scatters light from highly reflective crystalline structures within the substrate. The same principal is found in snowflakes, where the geometry of ice crystals reflects light. ORCA’s microfiber structure is naturally diffuse, a characteristic that is recognized by its highly reflective, ultra-matte surface. Diffuse reflection is important to hydroponic growers because it eliminates hot spots and creates an even, efficient distribution of light. In addition, ORCA’s reflective performance is consistent over the full spectrum of light.ORCA Film is color neutral and has no color shift or iridescence; this means the light reflected from its surface maintains the original color spectrum/wavelength. Hydroponic growers now can be assured the reflected light their plants are absorbing is the intended light spectrum being produced from their grow lamps.ORCA Grow film is light tight, 12 millimeters thick, waterproof, recyclable and
eco friendly, containing no halogens, plasticizers or VOCs. To learn more visit a hydroponics retailer near you.
House & Garden Algen extractAlgen Extract is a concentrated solution of Norwegian Sea Kelp (Ascophyllum nodosum). Plants in all phases love kelp for the many benefits it provides. Micro nutrients, micro-biology and macro-nutrients are all present in Algen Extract. Algen Extract growth stimulator is a product designed for use with sprouts that have rooted well. It ensures better leaf color and stimulates the formation of root hair, leading to increased uptake of various trace elements. Great as a foliar spray and for root applications. It can also be used as a leaf wash in case of chemical pest control and dusting. Algen Extract is available now at your local hydroponics shop.
The Rock That Doesn’t Roll - Sunleaves RocksSunleaves Rocks are a reusable growing medium with serious H20 holding power for use in any kind of garden, and now you can choose from two different sizes of this versatile growing medium! Both the small (0.25 to 0.5 inch) and large (0.5 to 1.5 inch) varieties are made by superheating shale to temperatures up to 2,000°F, rendering them pH-neutral and chemically inert. Make your life a little easier while you take care of your plants and the planet. Grow with the rock that doesn’t roll! Mined and manufactured in the United States. Ask for Sunleaves Rocks today at your local indoor gardening store.
yield Master 8” and 10”The new Yield Master is airtight! With a heavy-duty gasket and tempered glass that is held firmly in place by retention bars, the Yield Master is completely sealed. This reflector is manufactured with a highly reflective European aluminum interior for excellent output and uniformity. Durable, white powder-coated finish provides maximum air-cooling with built-in eight inch and 10 inch fittings and has a built-in socket and 15 foot lamp cord. In addition the EZ-Breeze™ aerodynamic junction box improves airflow and cooling of this airtight reflector making Yield Master an excellent choice for the serious grower. Ask for it now at your local hydro shop.
PRODUCTspotlight at your favorite indoor gardening store.See it. Want it. Find it.
115MAXIMUM YIELD USA - February 2010
Triple Action Technological Breakthrough - Xtreme Nutrients Rhino Drive
Rhino Drive maximizes flower weight, oil and resin production like never before. The plant is provided with a unique combination of vitamins and organic compounds required for optimum flower development. Warning - maximum potency!Rhino Drive uses anti-senescing agents that interrupt
the normal hormonal signals, which tell the plant that it is nearing the end of its life. In addition to the blockers, Rhino Drive also has two more modes of action. The specialized organic action of Rhino Drive ensures that cell permeability of the roots is enhanced and maintained at an optimal level.
Rhino Drive packs on weight. The inclusion of chelated potassium and silicate compounds and two unique plant amino acids adds weight and strength to the flowers and stems.When you use Rhino Drive, you are using the very latest technology in the area
of plant maturity control. Visit your local indoor gardening store to learn more.
Rope Rachet – Perfect for All your Hanging NeedsRope Rachet is a unique, compact system that lets you quickly secure a variety of items, including reflectors, fans and other gardening accessories. Adjust as needed - no knots or chains to mess with plus 150 pounds of holding power. Perfect for hanging reflectors, fans and any other garden accessories that needs to be secure.
• ¼ inch metal hooks• eight foot solid braided polypropylene rope
(1⁄4 inch diameter)• packaged in a convenient ClamShell pack
(one per pack)
Visit an authorized retailer near you to learn more.
ecosystem 2 – Versatile Vertical GrowingOnce you try vertical, you’ll find it hard to imagine growing any other way! The Ecosystem 2 is the long-awaited sequel to the world’s most popular vertical growing system.
Important improvements:• Fits 24 rockwool slabs instead of 20
in original Ecosystem. Compression fitting ensures leak-proof operation.
• Improved dripper system.
Separate reservoir for ease-of-use and cleaning.Multiple Ecosystem 2 can be fed
from the same reservoir.Turn-key air cooling system.Can house pots too using any growth
media.More accessible growing area makes
unit easy to maintain. Unit opens up all the way or partially for easy plant maintenance.Vastly increased airflow through
the grow space thanks to 16 inch gap between the bottom of the unit and the floor.No Velcro required to hold slabs in
place.Simplified preparation. Hose
attachment to pump for easy pre-soaking of rockwool slabs in the machine itself. Visit your local indoor gardening store to learn more.
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Galaxy Select-a-WattThis state-of-the-art ballast provides today’s serious grower with maximum flexibility and performance. The Galaxy Select-a-Watt is different than any other “dimmable” electronic ballast on the market by providing three ways to use the select-a-watt feature:
• It will properly drive a 400, 600 or 1000 watt lamp to ANSI specifications. For example - set the switch to 400 watts, insert a 400 watt lamp into your socket and the ballast will operate the 400 watt lamp. The ballast will similarly operate 600 or 1000 watt lamps.
• The ballast is capable of dimming a 1000 watt lamp – adjust the switch to 400 or 600 watts and the ballast will dim the 1000 watt lamp by 40 or 60 per cent.
• The turbo charge feature will increase the output of a 1000 watt lamp by approximately 10 per cent.
The Galaxy brand name carries a strong reputation of reliability and performance. Visit an indoor gardening store near you to learn more.
Xtreme Nutrients Root Tonic Root Tonic doubles root mass, which doubles your yield. It also prevents and cures wilt and all root diseases, and increases plant immunity and vigor for the highest yield potential. Commercial grade Root Tonic incorporates the newest technology from the latest research. With Root Tonic you got bigger yields every time.When you use Root Tonic, you are using a product that is
the result of years of global research. It is the only product of its kind at the cutting edge of root protection and formation technology. The results of this research are now available to you for the first time ever.Root Tonic should be used throughout the entire growing
and flowering process. Suitable for all hydroponics and soil plants. Ask for Root Tonic at your local hydro shop today.
Do you want to be included in the product spotlight? Contact the editor at 1-250-279-2677 or
email [email protected]
You can find all of our products online at www.maximumyield.com. Each month your favorite new product profiles will be featured
on our website. Get the latest information on what will make your garden grow.
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Vital earth’s® Mega Worm™Conscious Earthworks is proud to present Vital Earth’s® Mega Worm made from superior quality, 100 per cent pure castings. Mega Worm earthworm castings promote enhanced germination, root growth, plant growth, crop yield and water holding capacity in soils. It may help improve the physical structure of soil. Excellent for use in compost tea. 100 per cent earthworm castings are black and roll
when touched. Available in 1.1 cubic foot bags and two yard totes. For more information on Mega Worm visit an indoor gardening store near you.
Sunleaves Lightwave ReflectorsBuilding on the design of the original Lightwave, new Sunleaves Lightwave Reflectors are the perfect choice for anyone who’s looking to boost lighting efficiency. Their specular aluminum reflector bodies are ultra-lightweight and diffuse light evenly to eliminate hot spots. A great value for indoor gardening enthusiasts, the Lightwave Plug n’ Play is pre-wired with a fixed socket that’s compatible with the industry-standard Common Outlet, while the Lightwave CF Reflector is ideal for those who want to take advantage of the money-saving benefits of compact fluorescent technology. Just add a self-ballasted compact fluorescent lamp to create a complete, self-contained lighting system! Ask for the Sunleaves Lightwave Reflectors at your local grow shop today.
PRODUCTspotlight at your favorite indoor gardening store.See it. Want it. Find it.
117MAXIMUM YIELD USA - February 2010
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With relatively dilute solutions of soluble salts up to 100 ppm or so, if the concentration is doubled, its conductivity usually also doubles. At higher concentrations, however, this strict proportionality deteriorates.
An excellent compost will stand alone as a growing medium.
The adult fungus gnat fly lays eggs in wet substrate, which hatch into small larvae and can chew into the root system causing damage and creating wounds for root rot pathogens to enter.
Composting worms are used to living in a composting environment, and eat their way through their own bodyweight in waste every day.
Electro Luminescence is the term for the process at which electrical current is passed through LED chips and energy.
To reach the maximal photosynthesis level, most plants need a CO2 concentration between 700 and 1000 ppm.
An enzyme known as Ribulose Bisphosphate Carboxylase, or RuBisCO, may be the closest thing plants have to teeth. It is at the heart of photosynthesis machinery that we feed directly when fertilizing plants with CO2.
The internal circuitry cooled with several small computer-type fans, is the component in second-generation LED lighting systems that make them slightly heavier than first-generation systems.
The majority of the surface of mature leaves is coated with a wax that seals the leaf from outside air.
Potassium + chloride has a lower conductivity than sodium + chloride because a 500 ppm solution of potassium chloride has about 30 per cent fewer ions to carry the current than a 500 ppm solution of sodium chloride.
Epinasty is one of the more extreme symptoms of waterlogged roots, where ethylene gas builds up within the plant.
TALKING SHOP
AT A GLANCE
Company: Fifth Season Gardening Co.
Owners: Richard Quinn and Ashley Mattison
Location: 106 S. Greensboro St. (Carrboro)1616 Battleground Ave. (Greensboro)45 Banks Ave. (Asheville)5619 Hillsborough St. (Raleigh)900 Preston Ave. (Charlottesville)
Email: [email protected]
Web: fifthseasongardening.com Fifth Season Gardening Company can only be called an accidental business.
In 2001, Fifth Season co-owners Richard Quinn and Ashley Mattison had been married for just over one year, and Richard was trying to put his PhD in literature to work teaching part-time classes at the University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill. Ashley, with an advanced degree in English herself, was also working at UNC at the School of Pharmacy as the communications director.Ashley’s brother, Drew, along with a partner, had started
an indoor gardening business 200 miles from Chapel Hill in the western mountain town of Asheville, North Carolina the previous year. Though Drew lived in Denver, Colorado, he was convinced that Asheville was ripe for the concept and scraped together the initial money required to start Asheville Agricultural Systems, or Ashville Ag, as locals called it. As an avid snowboarder, Drew hoped to continue living in Colorado while his partner ran the North Carolina business.Meanwhile back in Chapel Hill, Richard became intrigued by the idea of
opening an indoor gardening store. Although lacking business knowledge and hydroponic experience, he and Ashley joined with Drew to open Carolina Hydrogardens in March 2002. Richard and Ashley kept their jobs at the university, and since Ashley worked full-time, Richard became the sole employee,
Asheville - Charlottesville crew:Mike Weeks (Asheville store manager)Clay HensleyJoey Cagle (Charlottesville store manager)Bobby Gorter (Asheville store assistant manager)
Raleigh crew:Jared Quinn (manager)Nick StanleyAdam Clements
118 MAXIMUM YIELD USA - February 2010
learning quickly with Drew’s help, and by reading every available book and listening to customers. His enthusiasm grew when he harvested his first batch of sweet basil grown aeroponically in the store’s front window.The story may have ended there if not for a series of
unfortunate events that resulted in Drew running Asheville Ag alone. His initial plan was to close shop, but with such a loyal customer base, it became clear to everyone involved that shutting down would be a mistake.Richard and Ashley bought Asheville Agricultural Systems
from Drew, forming Asheville Hydrogardens, Inc. in July 2002. Richard hired a manager to run Carolina Hydrogardens in Durham and spent many weeks in Asheville, working with a committed crew to grow the business. Despite the demands of running two businesses, Richard was still working at UNC. The business was still small and Richard kept his own books in between grading student papers on poets Walt Whitman and Emily Dickinson. Everything was manageable. Then, he and Ashley saw an opportunity to expand further and opened a second Carolina Hydrogardens in Greensboro, North Carolina in 2004.With eight employees and a stable business, Richard and Ashley
began looking for a way to expand into new areas. The little town of Carrboro adjacent to Chapel Hill had always been a hotbed for organic growing, composting, vermiculture and many other sustainable practices. In mid-2005, Richard found a 4500 square foot space in an old brick facility in downtown Carrboro.With three stores under two separate corporations, it was time
to simplify and brand. The list of potential names was long and MY
Richard founded the 4500 square foot location, perfect for handling a large selection of products.
"the greatest lesson in growing Fifth Season Gardening Company
into a successful business has been to never sit still."
after consulting with the employees, Fifth Season Gardening Company was born. The addition of an outdoor plant area, along with the purchase of 15 acres of land and the construction of a distribution warehouse came in 2007.In August 2007 Fifth Season bought GardenWorks, an indoor
gardening business in Raleigh, North Carolina. GardenWorks had long been Fifth Season’s largest and friendliest competitor run by committed, knowledgeable people with a loyal customer
base. The most recent piece of the puzzle came at the end of 2008 with the conversion of Carrboro’s old in-store stockroom into a homebrew shop. Locally grown hops sit alongside Dutch-made hand tools and the latest Humboldt Nutrients products. Beer and wine making customers mix easily with hydroponics
shoppers and seasoned organic farmers.Perhaps the greatest lesson in growing Fifth Season
Gardening Company into a successful business has been to never sit still. Despite the fact that he is no longer an owner, Drew Mattison, Ashley’s younger brother, gave the business its energy and its passion. Some of the usual adages have held true: hard work (really hard work) begets success; kindness and honesty come back in kind; face your fears; demand excellence; never take yourself too seriously. Like many of the products they sell, Fifth Season has grown organically. With no business plan and an improvisational spirit, a business came into being through a steady unfolding, a calling upon the strengths of its employees and commitment to the needs of its customers as they arise, as if by accident.
The active displays provide customers with a great view of live, growing set-ups and conditions.
119MAXIMUM YIELD USA - February 2010
AVANT-GARDENING
by Glory Lennon
Minty,Fresh Catnip
120 MAXIMUM YIELD USA - February 2010
No gardener should be without an herb garden. No gardener should be without a cat. With
these two provisos one can also state no garden is complete without a bit of
catnip. Catnip (Nepeta Cataria) is a rather pretty plant growing in bushy mounds around two
feet high with serrated, oblong, slightly fuzzy, heart-shaped leaves
of a grayish-green hue. They produce long, spiky flowers in violet and white, which attract bees by the hive-full.Catnip grows well in any good garden soil, preferring
it slightly dry and in full to partial sun. It is very easy to grow from seed and readily available at garden centers both as seeds and plants. The true gardening enthusiast won’t deem it only suitable for the herb garden. It makes a lovely addition to any perennial bed, wildflower patch or cutting garden. But there is no denying that catnip deserves a place of honor in the herb garden.It has a wonderful scent and makes a soothing tea good for
digestive problems, relaxing muscles and nerves and promoting good sleep. I prefer to use spearmint, chamomile and lemon balm for my herbal teas and leave the catnip for my cats but when insomnia hits, as it often does, I say the heck with the cats and steep some catnip for myself.
These plants, while easy to grow, can be a challenge to maintain if you let your cat wander around the yard. Cats like rolling around in it, essentially snuffing it out prematurely. Supposedly only three quarters of felines respond to its intoxicating scent. My four cats are in the majority. I have a tiny catnip plant growing on the windowsill over the winter months for the occasional kitty treat but I had to resort to covering it with an inverted heavy glass jar to keep the cats from devouring it.Cats simply can’t get enough of the stuff. As a matter of fact,
the catnip I planted in the cutting garden never grew to its potential because my cats kept knocking it down. I eventually had to place chicken wire around it to keep it safe. The cats stood vigil beside it all summer hoping it would grow beyond the protective boundary. To their chagrin I cut the whole thing down before it bloomed to provide them with a little thrill over the winter. I dried it and stored it in a jar. I let them nibble a bit every once in a while but I also use it to rub into their bedding. It can also be used as stuffing for cat toys.Just this past spring my son, a great cat lover, grew some
catmint (Nepeta Mussinii) to see what the difference was between catnip and catmint. Not very much as it turns out. Catmint has larger leaves and a milder taste but the cats went nuts for it too. Catmint grows up to 18 inches tall with purple-blue flower spikes. MY
124 MAXIMUM YIELD USA - February 2010
MAX-MART
125MAXIMUM YIELD USA - February 2010
Get your Max-Mart ad into the next issue!Call Maximum Yield at (250) 729-2677
for more information.
MAXIMIZE YOUR EXPOSURE WITH
MAX-MART
LLC
13762 Doolittle Drive, San Leandro, CA 94577
Phone: 510.903.1808 Fax: 510.764.1246
www.hydrogardendelight.com
126 MAXIMUM YIELD USA - February 2010
MAX-MART
ON
I N D O O R G A R D E N I N G
127MAXIMUM YIELD USA - February 2010
COMING UP INmarch
www.maximumyield.com
I N D O O R G A R D E N I N G March will be available March 1 for FREE at selected indoor gardening retail stores across USA and on maximumyield.com Subscriptions are available by contacting [email protected] or visiting maximumyield.com/subscriptions.php
small spaces – big yields, exclusive prizes and contests and nutrients, nutrients, nutrients.
CO2 - Safe and Effective Choose the best enrichment method and maintain healthy plants and a safe grow space.
Enhanced Growth Rates Beyond macro- and micronutrients.
LED Benefits and Limitations High wattage, high output quad band crop lighting.
Controlling Nutrient Concentrations Too high = burnt roots. Too low = deficiency.
128 MAXIMUM YIELD USA - February 2010
ALABAMAAlabama Organics3348 Bethel Road,Valley Head, AL 35989256-635-0802
ALASKABrown’s Electrical Supply365 Industrial Way,Anchorage, AK 99501907-272-2259
Far North Garden Supply300 Centaur Street,Wasilla, AK 99654907-376-7586
Far North Garden Supply2834 Boniface ParkwayAnchorage, AK 99504907-333-3141
Holmtown Nursery Inc.1301 - 30th Avenue,Fairbanks, AK 99701907-451-8733
ARIZONAACI Hydroponics1325 South Park Lane,Tempe, AZ 85282800-633-2137
Homegrown Hydroponics601 East Broadway Road,Tempe, AZ 85282480-377-9096
Homegrown Hydroponics1702 East Prince Road,Tucson, AZ 85719520-323-1212
Natural Pools & Gardens2143 North Country Suite C,Tucson, AZ 85716520-323-2627
Sea of Green Hydroponics815 W. University Drive, Suite 110,Tempe, AZ 85281800-266-4136
Sea of Green West2340 W. Bell Road, Suite 116,Phoenix, AZ 85023602-504-8842
Sea of Green Hydroponics402 North 4th Avenue,Tucson, AZ 85705520-622-6344
ARKANSASFermentables3915 Crutcher Street,N. Little Rock, AR 72118501-758-6261
Mickey’s Mercantile1303 Highway 65 South,Clinton, AR 72031501-412-0214
Old Soul Organics and More1771 Crossover Road,Fayetteville, AR 72701479-444-6955
CALIFORNIA3rd Street Hydroponics636 3rd StreetOakland, CA 94607510-452-5521
805 Hydroponics & Organics1785 E. Thousand Oaks BoulevardThousand Oaks, CA 91362805-494-1785
A+ Hydroponics & Organics1604 Babcock Street, Costa Mesa, CA 92627949-642-7776
A Fertile World (Eureka)65th Street, Eureka, CA 95501707-444-0200
A Fertile World (Fortuna)610 7th Street,Fortuna, CA 95540707-725-0700
Abundant Hydroponics LLC1611 Shop Street, #1-A,South Lake Tahoe, CA 96150530-54 HYDRO
Advanced Garden Supply2660 Lake Tahoe Boulevard,Building C, Unit 9,S. Lake Tahoe, CA 96150530-541-4769
Advanced Garden Supply3113 Alhambra Drive, Unit F,Cameron Park, CA 95682,530-676-2100
Advanced Hydroponics17808 Sierra Highway,Canyon Country, CA 91351661-299-1603
AG Natural403 Idaho Maryland Road,Grass Valley, CA 95945530-274 0990
Alameda County Hydroponics20910 Redwood Road, Suite C,Castro Valley, CA 94546
All Seasons Hydroponics17614 Chatsworth Street,Granada Hills, CA 91344818-368-4388
Alternative Hydro3870 East, Colorado Boulevard,Pasadena, CA 91107888-50-HYDRO
Always Sunny Hydroponics708 W. Swain RoadStockton, CA 95207209-473-9827
American Hydroponics286 South G Street,Arcata, CA 95521800-458-6543
Anthony’s Garden & Lighting Supply30 Ridge Road, Suites 8 & 9Sutter Creek, CA 95685209-267-5416
Anything Grows10607 W. River Street, Building 3 Suite C,Truckee, CA 96161530-582-0479
Atwater Hydroponics3350 Glendale Boulevard,Los Angeles, CA 90039323-663-8881
Auburn Organic4035 Grass Valley Highway,Auburn, CA 95602530-823-8900
B & S Gardening Supplies590 Commerce Court,Manteca, CA 95336209-239-8648
Bakersfield Hydroponics2408 Brundage Lane, Suite BBakersfield, CA 93304661-323-7333
Bare Roots Hydroponics1615 East Cypress, #5Redding, CA 96002530-244-2215
Beginning HydroponicsPO Box 1232,Corona, CA 92787951-735-4446
Berkeley Indoor Garden844 University AvenueBerkeley, CA 94710510-549-2918
Berkeley’s Secret Garden921 University Avenue,Berkeley, CA 94710510-486-0117
Best Coast Growers4417 Glacier Avenue Suite C,San Diego, CA 92120800-827-1876
Best Yield Garden Supply3503 West Temple Avenue, Unit A,Pomona, CA 91768909-839-0505
Better Grow Hydro Pasadena1271 E. Colorado Boulevard,Pasedena, CA 91106626 737 6612
Better Grow Hydro Los Angeles5554 Bandini Boulevard,Bell, CA 91106323-510-2700; 877 640 GROW
Brentwood Hydroponics & Organics560 Valdry Ct #85Brentwood, CA 94513925-634-6704
BWGS West2247 North Plaza DriveVisalia, CA 93291888-316-1306
California Hydro Garden1043 South Glendora Avenue, Suite AWest Covina, CA 91790626-813-0868
California Hydroponics310 Coral Street, Suite CSanta Cruz, CA 95060831-423-4769
Caliponics Inc.2030 Viborg Road, Unit 110Solvang, CA 93463877-PONICS9
Central Coast Hydrogarden1951 Santa Barbara Street,San Luis Obispo, CA 93401805-544-GROW
Citrus Heights Hydrogarden8043 Greenback LaneCitrus Heights, CA 95610916-728-4769
City Farmer’s Nursery4832 Home Avenue,San Diego, CA 92105619-284-6358
Clover Hydroponics & Garden Supply2626 South Main Street,Lakeport, CA 95453707-263-4000
CNG Garden Supplies22 Ricknbacker Circle,Livermore, CA 94551209-836-5550
Coca’s Central Valley Hydroponics116 West Orangeburg Avenue,Modesto, CA 95350209-567-0590
Concord Indoor Garden2771 Clayton Road,Concord, CA 94519925-671-2520
Conejo Hydroponics3481 Old Conejo Road #106Newbury Park, CA 91320805-480-9596
Conrad Hydroponics Inc.14915 Unit E, Olympic Drive,Clearlake, CA 95422707-994 3264
Constantly Growing6200 Enterprise Drive, Suite ADiamond Springs, CA 95619530-642-9710
Constantly Growing4343 Hazel Avenue,Fair Oaks, CA 95628916-962-0043
MAXIMUM YIELDdistributors
129MAXIMUM YIELD USA - February 2010
Constantly Growing - Davis123 D StreetDavis, CA 95616530-756-4774
D&S Garden Supplies17-130 Doolittle DriveSan Leandro, CA 94577510-430-8589
Dazey’s Supply3082 Redwood Drive,Redway, CA 95560707-923-3002
Direct Hydroponics Wholesale14228 Alberts Way,Chino, CA 91710909-606-5885
Dirt Cheap Hydroponics17975 H Highway 1,Fort Bragg, CA 95437707-964-4211
Discount Hydroponics4745 Hiers Avenue,Riverside, CA 92505877-476-9487
Eel River Hydroponics & Soil Supply164 Dinsmore Drive,Fortuna, CA 95540707-726-0395
El Centro Hydro & Brew Supply Inc.591 main Street, Suite N-2El Centro, CA 92243760-235-4985
Elite Horticulture Supply22330 Sherman Way, C13,Canoga Park, CA 91303818-347-5172
Emerald Garden8249 Archibald Avenue,Ranch Cucamanga, CA 91730909-466-3796
Emerald Garden13325 South Highway 101,Hopland, CA 95482707-744-8300
Emerald Garden307 East Perkins Street,Ukiah, CA 95482707-463-2510
Endless Green Hydroponics25 Enterprise Court, Suite 3Napa, CA 94558707-254-0200
Evergreen Hydroponics923 N. Central Avenue, Suite B,Upland, CA 91786909-946-7100
Everything Green Hydroponics915 Texas Street,Fairfield, CA 94533707-432-0774
Everything Green448 Georgia Street,Vallejo, CA 94590707-647-0774
Extreme Hydroponics11479 San Fernando Road C,San Fernando, CA 91340818-898-0915
EZ Green Hydroponics7017 Reseda Boulevard,Reseda, CA 91335818-776-9076
Farm Hydroponics, The1950 Lake Tahoe Boulevard #3,S. Lake Tahoe, CA 96150530-541-3276
Foothill Hydroponics10705 Burbank Boulevard,N. Hollywood, CA 91601818-760-0688
Foothills Hydrogarden3133 Penryn Road,Penryn, CA 95663916-270-2413
Four Seasons Garden Center1737 Broadway,Oakland, CA 94612510-832-2545
Full Sun Supply3535 Industrial Drive, Unit B-3Santa Rosa, CA 95403877-FULL-SUN
Funny Farms Hydroponics963 Transport Way, #12Petaluma, CA 94954707-775-3111
G & G Organics and Hydroponics901 W. Victoria Street Unit D,Compton, CA 90220310-632-0122
Garden Connection, The 2145 Park Avenue, Unit 2Chico, CA 95928530-342-7762
Garden Depot, The203 Commerce Street, Suite 101Lodi, CA 95240209-339-9950
Garden Highway Garden Supply598 Garden Highway #22Yuba City, CA 95991530-755-2877
Garden Shed, The1136 El Camino RealSan Carlos, CA650-508-8600
Garden Spout, The44800 Highway 101,Laytonville, CA 95454707-984-7260
Garden Spout, The630 S. Main Street,Willits, CA 95490707-456-0196
Garden Warehouse6355 Scarlet Court, #2,Dublin, CA 94568925-556-3319
Go Big Hydroponics4501 Van Nuys Boulevard,Sherman Oaks, CA 91403818-789-3341
Go Green Hydroponics15721 Ventura Boulevard,Encino, CA 91436818-990-1198
Golden Gecko Garden Center, The4665 Marshall Road,Garden Valley, CA 95633530-333-2394
Golden Harvest Hydroponics & Garden Supply8626 Lower Sacramento Road #48,Stockton, CA 95210209-951-3550
Gottagrow Garden Supply769 Wilson Street,Santa Rosa, CA 95404707-544-7782
Grass Roots Hydroponics31877 Corydon, Suite 150Lake Elsinore, CA 92530951-245-2390
Grass Valley Hydrogarden12506 Loma Rica Drive,Grass Valley, CA 95945530-477-2996
Green Acres Hydroponics1215 Striker Avenue, Suite 180,Sacramento, CA 95834916-419-4394
Green Coast Hydroponics3560 State Street,Santa Barbara, CA 93105805-898-9922
Green Coast Hydroponics2405 Mira Mar Avenue,Long Beach, CA 90815562-627-5636
Green Coast Hydroponics496 Meats AvenueOrange, CA 92865714-974-4769
Green Coast Hydroponics11510 Whittier BoulevardWhittier, CA 90601562-699-4201
Greenfire Sacramento3230 Auburn Boulevard,Sacramento, CA 95821916-485-8023
Green Joint Ventures61 Tarp Circle,Salinas, CA 93901831-998-8628
Green Lady Hydroponics4879 Newport Avenue,San Diego, CA 92107619-222-5011
GreenLeaf Hydroponics2212 Artesia Boulevard,Redondo Beach, CA 90278310-374-2585
Green Logic Garden Supply860 Piner Road, #38,Santa Rosa, CA 95403707-843-3156
Greenmile Hydroponic Garden Supply1480 South E. Street, Suite D,San Bernardino, CA 92408909-885-5919
Green Thumb Hydroponics35 Quinta Court, Suite B,Sacramento, CA 95823916-689-6464
Green Thumb Lighting & Garden1647 W. Sepulveda Boulevard, Unit 5,Torrance, CA 90501888-326-GROW
Greentrees Hydroponics Inc.2581 Pioneer Avenue, Unit DVista, CA 92081760-598-7551
GreenWay Hydroponics11510 Whittier Boulevard,Whittier, CA 90601562-699-4201
Grodan Inc.5152 Commerce Avenue,Moorpark, CA 93021541-646-8245
Grow A Lot Hydroponics, San Diego1591 N. Cuyamaca Street,El Cajon, CA 92020619-749-6777
Growers Choice Hydroponics1100 Carver Road,Modesto, CA 95350209-522-2727
Growers Choice Hydroponics16754 East 14th Street,San Leandro, CA 94578510-278-6200
Grow It Yourself Gardens401 Sunset Drive, Suite L,Antioch, CA 94509925-755-GROW
Grow King Hydroponics932 South San Pedro Street,Los Angeles, CA 90015213-689-8982
Grow Light Express5318 East Second Street suite 164,Long Beach, CA 90803888-318-GROW
Grow Your Own3401 Traval Street,San Francisco, CA 94116415-731-2115
Grunder Family Organics & Hydroponics12321 Magnolia Avenue, Suite C,Riverside, CA 92503877-468-7974
H20 Gardening355 West 7th Street,San Pedro, CA 90731310-514-1416
Hahn’s Lighting260 E. VA Suite 1,San Jose, CA 95112408-295-1755
Harvest Hydroponics6650 Merchandise Way Suite B,Diamond Springs, CA 95619530-622-5190
130 MAXIMUM YIELD USA - February 2010
High Desert Hydroponics13631 Pawnee Road, #7Apple Valley, CA 92308760-247-2090
Hi-Tech Gardening5327 Jacuzzi Street, #282,Richmond, CA 94804510-524-4710
Hollywood Hydroponics and Organics5109 1/2 Hollywood Boulevard,Los Angeles, CA 90027-6105323-662-1908
Home Life Hydroponics and Organics1745 East Vista Way,Vista, CA 92084760-643-2150
Hooked Up Hydroponics339 S. Golden State Boulevard,Turlock, CA 95380209-668-1300
House of Hydro224 Weller Street, #B,Petaluma, CA 94952707-762-4769
Humboldt Electronics2547 California Street,Eureka, CA 95501707-443-9408
Humboldt Hydroponics1302 Union Street,Eureka, CA 95501707-443-4304
Humboldt Hydroponics2174 Pine Street,Redding, CA 96001530-241-7454
Humboldt Hydroponics601 I Street,Arcata, CA 95521707-822-3377
Humboldt Hydroponics2010 Tunnel Road,Redway, CA 95560707-923-1402
Humboldt Nutrients65th Street,Eureka, CA 95501888-420-7770
Hydroasis2643 S. Fairfax Avenue,Los Angeles, CA 90232888-355-4769
Hydrobrew1319 South Coast Highway,Oceanside, CA 92054760-966-1885; 877-966-GROW
Hydro Depot5665 Redwood Drive, #B,Rohnert Park, CA 94928707-584-2384
Hydrogarden Delight13762 Doolittle Drive,San Leandro, CA 94577510-903-1808
Hydrogarden Mendocino County1240 North Main Street,Fort Bragg, CA 95437707-962-9252
Hydro King105 Hartnell Avenue, Suite C and D,Redding, CA 96002888-822-8941
Hydro King2540 South Whitman Place,Chico, CA 959282530-893-GROW (4769)
Hydro-Logic Purification Systems2825 Mattison Lane,Suite 103,Santa Cruz, CA 95065888 H2O LOGIC
HydroPacific - Hydroponics & Garden Supplies351 C Hastings Av.,Ukiah, CA 95482707-467-0400
Hydroponic Connection Warehouse, The1995 Evans Avenue,San Francisco, CA 94124415-824-9376
Hydroponics 4 Less41669 Winchester Avenue,Temecula, CA 92590800-A1-HYDRO
Hydroponics Plus2250 Commerce Avenue, Suite CConcord, CA 94520925-691-7615
Hydroponics Unlimited.com2728 E. PalmdaleBoulevard #121Palmdale, CA 93550661-266-3906
Hydrostar Hydroponics & Organics1307 W. Sixth Street, #211,Corona, CA 92882951-479-8069
Igrow Hydro2280 Veatch Street,Oroville, CA 95965530-534-4476
Igrow Hydro9000 Atkinson Street,Roseville, CA 95678916-773-4476
Inland Empire Hydrogarden1301-C South State Street,San Jancinto, CA 92853886-72-HYDRO
Inland Empire Hydrogarden28822 Old Town Front St. #206Temecula, CA 92590886-74-HYDRO
Innovative Growing Solutions (IGS)7922-B Miramar Road,San Diego, CA 92126858-578-IGS7
Kaweah Grower Supply1106 1/2 N. Ben Maddox Way,Visalia, CA 93293559-625-4937
Kern Hydroponics2408 Brundage Lane, Suite B,Bakersfield, CA 93304661-323-7333
Lazy Gardeners Hydroponics ‘N’ More14626 East Whittier Boulevard,Whittier, CA 90605562-945-0909
Let it Grow1228 2nd Street,Crescent City, CA 95531707-464-9086
Let it Grow160 Westwood Center,Arcata, CA 95521707-822-8733
Liquid Gardens21752 Devonshire Street,Chatsworth, CA 91311818-718-7624
Long Beach Hydroponics & Organics1772 Clark Avenue,Long Beach, CA 90815562-498-9525
Lumatek Digital Ballasts33 Commercial Boulevard, Suite BNovato, CA 94949415-233-4273
M&M Garden Supply2509 West Lane, Suite BStockton, CA 95205209-939-0664
M&M Garden Supply22540 D Foothill Boulevard, 2509 Westlane Suite BStockton, CA 95205
Marin Hydroponics1219 Grant Avenue,Novato, CA 94945415-897-2197
Medicine Man Farms1602 53rd Avenue,Oakland, CA 94601707-980-0456Mendocino Garden ShopPO Box 1301, 44720 Maint Street (at Hwy. 1),Mendocino, CA 95460707-937-3459Mendocino Greenhouse & Garden Supply900 East School Way,Redwood Valley, CA 95470707-485-0668Merced Hydroponics1809 East 21st Street,Merced, CA 95340209-726-4769M.G.S.22540 D Foothill Boulevard,Hayward, CA 94541510-582-0900Monterey Bay Horticulture Supply224B Reindollar Avenue,Marina, CA 93933831-38-HYDROMonterey Bay Hydroponics and Organics81 Hangar Way, #1,Watsonville, CA 95076831-761-9999Myron L Company2450 Impala Drive,Carlsband, CA 9210-7226760-438-2021Mystic Gardens8484 Florin Road, #110,Sacramento, CA 95828916-381-2464National Garden Wholesale/Sunlight Supply1950 C South Grove Avenue,Ontario, CA 91761888-888-3319Nature’s Secret Garden and Supply41469 Albrae Street,Fremont, CA 94577510-623-8393New Leaf Hydro34150 123rd Street,Parablossom, CA 93553 661-944-2226NorCal CreationsPO Box 28,Cedar Ridge, CA 95924Nor Cal Hydroponics4837 Geary Boulevard,San Francisco, CA 94118 415-933-8262Northcoast Horticulture Supply122 West 4th Street, Suite BEureka, CA 95501707-444-9999Northcoast Horticulture Supply1580 Nursery Way, Suite QMcKinleyville, CA 95519707-839-9998Northcoast Hydrogardens3450 North State Street,Ukiah, CA 95482707-462-7214No Stress Hydroponics7543 Santa Monica Boulevard,West Hollywood, CA 90046323-845-9874One Stop Hydroponics12822 Victory BoulevardNorth Hollywood, CA 91606818-980-5855Oracle Garden Supply5755 Oberlin Drive, Suite 100San Diego, CA 92121858-558-6006Orange County Hydroponics12687 Beach Boulevard, Unit H,Stanton, CA 90680714-893-9493Organic Bountea1919 Dennis Lane,Santa Rosa, CA 95403800-798-0765
MAXIMUM YIELDdistributors
131MAXIMUM YIELD USA - February 2010
Orsa Organix111 Willow Street,Redwood City, CA 94063650-369-1269
Pacific Beach Hydroponics1852 Garnet Avenue,San Diego, CA 92109858-274-2559
Pacific Coast Hydroponics4147 Sepulveda Boulevard,Culver City, CA 90230310-313-1354
Pacific Garden Supply128 H Carlos Drive,San Rafael, CA 94903
Palmdale Hydroponics2728 East PalmdaleBoulevard Suite 108,Palmdale, CA 93550661-266-9908
Palm Springs Hydroponics4651 Ramon Road,Palm Springs, CA 92264760-327-ROOT
Plant It Earth2279 Market Street,San Francisco, CA 94114415-626-5082
Plant Life32 Race Street,San Jose, CA 95126408-283-9191
Plant-N-Grow1602 53rd Avenue,Oakland, CA 94601707-980-0456
Precision Hydroponics132 Kennedy Avenue,Campbell, CA 95008408-866-8176
Pro Gardening Systems3715 Santa Rosa Avenue #2,Santa Rosa, CA 95407707-585-8633
Pro Gardening Systems4936 Highway 12,Santa Rosa, CA 95472707-538-8402
Pro Gardening Systems765 Petaluma Avenue,Sebastopol, CA 95472707-829-7252
Redway Feed Garden and Pet Supply290 Briceland Road,Redway, CA 95560707-923-2765
Reforestation Technologies International1341 Daton Street, Units G&ISalinas, CA 93901831-424-1494; 800-RTI-GROW
Roots Grow Supply1330 North Hulbert, #101Fresno, CA 93728559-840-0122
Sac Hydroponics9529 Folson Boulevard, Suite CSacramento, CA 95827916-369-7968
San Diego Hydroponics East County11649 Riverside Drive,Suite 141,Lakeside, CA 92040619-562-3276
San Diego Hydroponics Beach Cities4122 Napier Street,San Diego, CA 92110619-276-0657
San Diego Hydroponics North802 N. Twin Oaks Valley Road #108San Marcos, CA 92069760-510-1444
San Francisco Hydro123 Tenth Street,San Francisco, CA 94103
Santa Cruz Hydroponics & Organics - West815 Almar Avenue, Suite K,Santa Cruz, CA 95060831-466-9000
Santa Cruz Hydroponics & Organics - East4000 Cordelia Lane #4,Soquel, CA 95073831-475-9900
Santa Cruz Hydroponics & Organics - North6241 Graham Hill Road,Felton, CA 95018831-335-9990
Santee Hydroponics7973A Mission Gorge Road,Santee, CA 92071619-270-8649
Seaside Hydrogarden1070 Highway 101 North,Crescent City, CA 95531707-465-3520
Skywide Import & Export Ltd.5900 Lemon Hill Avenue,Sacramento, CA 95824916-383-2369
Socal Hydroponics1727-B Oceanside Boulevard,Oceanside, CA 92054760-439-1084
South Bay Hydroponics and Organics569 East Evelyn Avenue,Mountain View, CA 94041650-968-4070
South Bay Hydroponics and Organics - San Jose1185 South Bascom Avenue,San Jose, CA 95128408-292-4040
South County Hydroponics22511 Aspan Street, Suite ELake Forest, CA 92630949-837-8252
South Valley Hydroponics320 Kishimura Drive, #3Gilroy, CA 950201-866-848-GROW
Sparetime Supply208 E. San Francisco Avenue,Willits, CA 95490-4006707-459-6791
Specialty Garden Center1970 East Vista Way, Suite 10,Vista, CA 92084760-758-4769
Sun-In Hydroponics1257A Cleveland Avenue,Santa Rosa, CA 95401707-578-5747
Sunland Hydroponics8300 Foothill Boulevard,Sunland, CA 91040818-352-5300
Supersonic Hydroponic and Organic Garden Supply850 Shasta Avenue, Suite BMorro Bay, CA 93442805-772-5869
Supersonic Hydroponic and Organic Garden Supply3850 Ramada Drive, Unit D2Paso Robles, CA 93446805-434-2333
Sweet Leaf Hydroponics1611 Sebastobol Road,Santa Rosa, CA 95407707-575-GROW (4237)
Sylvandale Gardens1151 Evergreen Road,Redway, CA 95560707-923-3606
Tahoe Garden Supply645 Westlake Boulevard, Suite 2, PO Box 487Tahoe City, CA 96145530-581-3200
Tell 2 Friends Indoor Gardening62 Sutherland Drive,Auburn, CA 95603530-889-8171
The Green Shop66420 Mooney Boulevard, Suite 1Visalia, CA 93277559-688-4200
The Hydro Source671 E. Edna PlaceCovina, CA 91723877 HYDRO 82; 626-915-3128
The Shop6542 Front Street,Forestville, CA 95436707-887-2280
The Urban Farmer Store653 E. Blithedale Avenue,Mill Valley, CA 94941415-380-3840
The Urban Farmer Store2833 Vicente Street,San Francisco, CA 94116415-661-2204
The Urban Farmer Store2121 San Joaquin Street,Richmond, CA 94804510-524-1604
Thrive Hydroponics70 A West North Street,Healdsburg, CA 95446707-433-4068
Thunders Hydroponic Center1729 Yosemite Boulevard,Medesco, CA 95354
TNC Supply9490 Main Street, P.O. Box 763Upper Lake, CA 95485707-275-9565
Tower Garden Supply & Organic Nursery403 W. Olive Avenue,Fresno, CA 93728559-495-1140
Tradewinds Wholesale Garden Supplies1235 Striker Avenue #180,Sacramento, CA 95834888-557-8896
Tulare County Growers Supply435 W. Noble Avenue, Unit A,Farmerville, CA 93223559-732-8247
Turbo Grow1889 San Pablo Avenue,Pinole, CA 94564510-724-1291
Two Chix Garden Supply1230 Yuba Street,Marysville, CA 95901530-923-2536
Under The Sun12638 Foothill Boulevard,Clearlake Oaks, CA 95423707-998-GROW (4769)
Urban Gardens22516 Ventura Boulevard,Woodland Hills, CA 91364818-876-0222
Urban Gardens Unlimited704 Filbert Street,San Francisco, CA 94133415-421-4769
US Orchid & Hydroponic Supplies1621 South Rose Avenue,Oxnard, CA 93033805-247-0086
Valley Garden Solutions Inc.15650 Nordhoff Avenue, Suite 104,North Hills, CA 91345818-336-0041
Wai Kula Hydrogardens5297 Linda Vista Road,San Diego, CA 92110619-299-7299
Weather Top Nursery44901 Harmon Drive,Laytonville, CA 95454707-984-6385
We Grow Hydroponics3350 East Los Angeles Avenue,Simi Valley, CA 93063805-624-4566
132 MAXIMUM YIELD USA - February 2010
West Coast Growers Hydroponics13481 Colifax Highway,Grass Valley, CA 95945888-924-4769
West Coast Hydroponics, Inc.27665 Forbes Road, Unit 10Laguna Niguel, CA 92677949-348-2424
Western Auto1156 Main Street,Fortuna, CA 95540707-725-1189
COLORADOBath Nursery & Garden Center2000 E. Prospect,Fort Collins, CO 80525970-484-5022
Big Tomato, The14440 E. 6th Avenue,Aurora, CO 80011303-364-4769
Big Tomato, The3000 Main Avenue,Durango, CO 81301970-375-1238
Boulder County CaregiversPO Box 7406,Golden, CO 80403303-495-2195
Boulder Hydroponics1630 N. 63rd Street, #5,Boulder, CO 80301303-415-0045
Cultivate Hydroponics & Organics7777 W. 38th Avenue, #A120A, Wheat Ridge, CO 80033303-954-9897
Denver Hydroponic & Organic Center6810 North Broadway, Unit DDenver, CO 80221303-650-0091
Desert Bloom Hydroponics445 Pitkin Avenue,Grand Junction, CO 81501970-245-6427
Ever Green Hydroponics Inc.1131 Francis Street, Suite A,Longmont, CO 80501303-682-6435
Garden Tech737 Garden of the Gods Road,Colorado Springs, CO 80907719-278-9777
Greenhouse Tech917 East Fillmore,Colorado Springs, CO 80907719-634-0637
Grow Store South, The5050 S. Federal Boulevard, #37,Englewood, CO 80110303-738-0202
Grow Store, The8644 W. Colfax Avenue,Lakewood, CO 80215888-510-0350
GWS Hydroponics7025 Highway 82 Building 4B,Glenwood Springs, CO 81601970-384-2040
Head Start Hydroponics & Organic Gardening Emporium34500 US Highway 6, Unit B-9,North Edwards, CO 81632970-569-3139
Hydro-Grow Supply644 Peterson Road,Colorado Springs, CO 80915719-596-2600
Hydro Shack, The220 Main Street, Suite EFrisco, CO 80443970-668-0359
Indoor Paradise Hydroponics309 S. Summit View, Unit 17,Fort Collins, CO 80524-1462970-221-3751
Olympic Hydroponics Supply LLC.1530 S Nevada Avenue,Colorado Springs, CO 80906719-635-5859
Rocky Mountain Lighting and Hydroponics7100 N. Broadway, Suite 3DDenver, CO 80221303-428-5020
Way To Grow3201 E. Mulberry Street,Fort Collins, CO 80524970-484-4769
Way To Grow6395 Gunpark Drive,Boulder, CO 80301303-473-4769
CONNECTICUTHarvest Moon Hydroponics775 Silver Lane,East Hartford, CT 06118860-568-4067
LiquidSun® CT10C South Main Street,East Windsor, CT 06088860-254-5757
Organix Hydroponics749 Saybrook Road, (Tradewinds Plaza)Middletown, CT 06457860-343-1923
FLORIDA3D Hydroponics and Organics7139 US Highway #19,New Port Richey, FL 34652727-8471-3491
Absolute Growing Solutions Inc.7307 49th Street,Pinellas Park, FL 33781727-541-3333
Advanced Hydro Gardens4960 NW 165 Street, Suite B-4,Miami, FL 33014866-97-HYDRO
Atlantic Hydroponics430 Count Street,Melbourne, FL 32901321-821-1535
Blossoms Experience, The7207 NW 54th Street,Miami, FL 33166866-452-4769
Cultivating Eden Hydroponic Supplies946 18th Avenue SW,Vero Beach, FL 32962772-564-8880
East Coast Hydroponics & Organics461 Forrest Avenue, Suite 105Coca, FL 32922321-243-6800
Eden Garden Supply5044 N. Palafox Street,Pensacola, FL 32505850-439-1299
Esposito Garden Center2743 Capital Circle NE,Tallahassee, FL 32308850-386-2114
Falero Hardware & Hydroponics6758 W. Flager Street,Miami, FL 33144305-266-8878
Florida Garden Supplies2692 W 79 Street,Hialeah, FL 330161-800-931-5215
Florida Garden Supplies8020 Belvedere Road, Unit 4, West Palm Beach,FL 33411561-333-1088
Future Farms Inc., The14291 SW 120th Street, Suite 105Miami, FL 33186305-382-2757
Gardener’s Edge Gainesville5000 NW 34th Street, Suite 13,Gainesville, FL 32605352-375-2769
Gardener’s Edge Jacksonville5325 Fairmont Street,Jacksonville, FL 32207904-398-8012
Gold Coast Hydroponics1539 SW 21st Avenue,Fort Lauderdale, FL 333121-800-780-7371
Gold Coast Hydroponics4241 SW 71st Avenue,Miami, FL 331551-800-780-6805
Grace’s Hydro-Organic Garden Center8877 North 56th StreetTampa, FL 33617813-514-9376
Green Thumb Hydroponics Supplies13482 North Cleveland Avenue,Fort Meyers, FL 33903239-997-4769
GreenTouch Hydroponics Inc.5011 S State Road 7, Suite 104Davie, FL 33314954-316-8815
Grower's Choice & Hydroponics11855 North Main Street,Jackonsonville, FL 32218904-683-4517
Growing Garden Inc., The12811 SW 42nd Street,Miami, FL 33175305-559-0309
Harvest Time Hydroponics14414 N. Florida Avenue,Tampa, FL 33613813-264-7101
Healthy Gardens and Supply of Florida, Inc.196 East Nine Mile Road, Suite F,Pensacola, FL 32534850-912-4545
High Tech Garden Supply2975 West New Haven Avenue,Melbourne, FL 32901321-821-0853
Hydro For Less9545 Southwest 72nd Street,Miami, FL 33173305-598-4311
Hydroponics International Inc.7029-10 Commonwealth Avenue,Jacksonville, FL 32220904-693-6554
Hydroponics of Tampa120 W. Bougain Villea,Tampa, FL 33612813-333-6828
Hydro Terra Corp.924 North Federal Highway,Hollywood, FL 33020954-920-0889
Palm Beach Hydroponics Supply, Inc.968 N. Congress Avenue,West Palm Beach, FL 33409561-296-6161
Simply Hydroponics & Organics7949 Ulmerton Road,Largo, FL 33773727-531-5355
Simply Hydroponics & Organics (North)3642 South Suncoast Boulevard,Homosassa, FL 34448352-628-2655
Stoney Hydro @ Schiro's Barn n Garden Supplies7812 Causeway Boulevard,Tampa, FL 33619813-626-0902
MAXIMUM YIELDdistributors
133MAXIMUM YIELD USA - February 2010
Sunshine Hydroponics Garden Center1420 East Altomonte Drive,Altamonte Spring, FL 32701407-830-GROW
Sunshine Hydroponics Garden Center5561 S. Orange Blossom Trail,Orlando, FL 32809407-859-7728
Sunshine Hydroponics Garden Center6100 Hanging Moss Road,Suite 500,Orlando, FL 32807888-833-GROW
Worm’s Way Florida4412 North 56th Street,Tampa, FL 33610800-283-9676; 813-621-1792
GEORGIAAtlantis Hydroponics1422 Woodmont Lane, #4,Atlanta, GA 30318404-367-0052
Atlantis Hydroponics2561 West Point Avenue,College Park, GA 30337678-510-0032
Flora Hydroponics Inc.2475 Jefferson Road, Suite 600Athens, GA 30607866-404-0551
Savannah Hydroponics & Organics4107 Eighth Street, Suite CGarden City, GA 31408912-349-4030
HAWAIIAqua Plant Hawaii / Kahala Hydroponics4224 Wailae, Suite 1A,Honolulu, HI 96816808-735-8665
Green Hands of Aloha1713 Mary Street,Honolulu, HI 96819808-847-4263
Ohana Greenhouse & Garden Supply300 Hukilike Street, #2M,Kahalui, HI 96732808-871-6393
Pahoa Feed & Fertilizer15-2754 Old Government Road,Pahoa, HI 96778808-965-9955
IDAHOBoise Hydroponics614 North Orchard Street,Boise, ID 83706208-344-3053
Greenthumb Greenhouses5895 Ensign Avenue,Boise, ID 83714
ILLINOISAerostar Global824 South Kay Avenue,Addison, IL 60101
Alternative Garden SupplyA-615 Industrial Drive,Gary, IL 60013800-444-2837
Big Grow Hydroponics9225 Trinity Drive,Lake In The Hills, IL 60156847-854-4450
Brew and Grow1824 North Besly Court,Chicago, IL 60622773-395-1500
Brew and Grow3224 South Alpine Road,Rockford, IL 61109815-874-5700
Brew and Grow2379 Bode Road, Schaumburg, IL 60194847-885-8282
Fertile Ground463 West MacArthur Drive,Cottage Hills, IL 62018618-259-5500
Green Fields8137 N. Milwaukee,Niles, IL 60714847-965-5056
Grow Big Hydroponics7817 B North 2nd Street,Manchesney Park, IL 61115815-637-4769
Hydrocork20647 Renwick Road,Crest Hill, IL 60435815-838-0100
Kreation’s Indoor Gardening Center3427 Old Chatman Road,Springfield, IL 62704217-341-0821
Let it Grow - CarbondaleWest Main Street,Carbondale, IL 62908573-450-5401
Prairie House Garden Center15151 South Harlem Avenue,Orland, IL 60462708-687-3131
Water Works Indoor Gardening1900 South Dirksen Parkway,Springfield, IL 62703217-553-6929
INDIANABWGS7854 North State Road 37,Bloomington, IN 47404800-316-1306
Five Point Gardens56555 Oak Road,South Bend, IN 46619574-287-9232
Frogs Lilly Pad, The706 Citation Road,Carmel, IN 46032317-846-4610
Harvest Moon Hydroponics4200 S. East Street,Indianapolis, IN 46227317-780-8070
Magic Bulb Garden Center6229 Allisonville Road,Indianapolis, IN 46220317-202-2852
Sunleaves Garden Products7854 North State Road 37,Bloomington, IN 47404888-464-9676
Worm’s Way Indiana7850 North State Road 37,Bloomington, IN 47404800-598-8158
KANSASGreen Circle Hydroponics6890 W. 105th Street,Overland Park, KS 66212913-642-3888
KENTUCKYGarden Grove Organics29 East 7th Street,Covington, (Cincinnati Metro), KY 41011859-360-1843
Grow Shop, The of Lexington2320 Palumbo Drive, Suite 130,Lexington, KY 40509859-268-0779
Louisville Hydroponics3471 Taylor Boulevard,Louisville, KY 40215502-366-4000
New Earth Garden Center9810 Taylorsville Road,Louisville, KY 40299800-462-5953
Worm’s Way Kentucky1360 Donaldson Hwy. Suite A,Erlanger, KY 41018800-669-2088
LOUISIANALaughing Buddha Nursery4516 Clearview Parkway,Metairie, LA 70006504-887-4336
Ourcrazydeals Hydroponics201 Angus Drive,Yungsville, LA 70592337-303-6146
Urban Organics285 St. Claude Avenue,New Orleans, LA 70117504-352-4709
MAINEGreen Thumb Indoor Gardening19 Stage Road,St. Albans, ME 04971207-938-5909
Urban Garden Center235 Lewiston Road,Toposhan, ME 04086207-373-0990
MARYLANDEast Coast Organics2800 Sisson Street,Baltimore, MD 21211
Healthy Gardens and Supply5001-F Harford Road,Baltimore, MD 21214443-708-5144
Maryland Hydroponics Inc.10051 North 2nd Street, Laurel, MD 20723301-490-9236
Maryland Hydroponics Inc.12130 Nebel Street, Rockville, MD 20852240-551-4625
Meadowview Feed & Garden Center1202 Meadowview Road,Pasadena, MD 21122443-817-0018
Purple Mountain Organics100-7010 Westmoreland Avenue,Takoma Park, MD 20912877-538-9901
MASSACHUSETTSGreenlife Garden Supply481 Boston Road, Unit 4,Billerica, MA 01821978-262-9966
Green Path Garden Supply276 West Main Street,Northborough, MA 01532508-393-4181
Harvest Moon Hydroponics29 Washington Street, Route 1Foxboro, MA 02035800-660-6977
LiquidSun® MA8 Lynwood Avenue,Holyoke, MA 01040413-539-6875
New England Hydroponics15 D Coolege Hwy. (Rt. 10),Southampton, MA 01073888-529-9025
Worm’s Way Massachusetts121 Worc-Providence Turnpike,Sutton, MA 01590800-284-9676
MICHIGANBIg Creek Hydroponics555 Old Little Lake Road,Marquette, MI 49855906-249-5297
Cultivation Station of Michigan Inc., The23529 Little Mack Avenue,St Claire’s Shores, MI 48080586-775-9485
134 MAXIMUM YIELD USA - February 2010
HYDROGARDENS
Gro Blue Indoor Gardening Supplies270 W. Liberty Street,Ann Arbor, MI 48104734-913-2750
Growco Garden Supply1042 Michigan Street, NE,Grand Rapids, MI 49503877-939-6900
Home Grown Hydroponics8075 Gratiot Road, Unit C,Saginaw MI 48609989-781-1930
Homelight Gardens3471 S. Huron Road,Bay City, MI 48706989-922-0088
Horizen Hydroponics1614 Leonard Street, NW,Grand Rapids,MI 49504866-791-1664
HotHydro®5245 Jackson Road, Suite FAnn Arbor, MI 48103734-761-5040; 877-893-0716
Hydroharrys.com24500 Dequindre,Warren, MI 48091800-461-8819
Hydrospot34236 Michigan Avenue,Wayne, MI 48184734-722-1285
Indoor Garden Superstore2570 Dixie Highway,Waterford Twp., MI 48328
J&L Growco206 S. Michigan Avenue,Big Rapids, MI 49307231-796-1528
Kalamazoo Indoor Garden450 W. Maple,Kalamazoo, MI 49001269-344-2550
Light Green Water3661 Highland Road,Waterford, MI 48329248-681-0001
SH Hydroponics Inc.115 Holmes Road, Building 3 Suite A,Ypsilanti, MI 48198734-879-4014
Sunnyside Hydroponics24930 Gratiot Avenue,Eastpoint, MI 48021586-777-2528
Sunshine Supply Co.5800 East Pickard Street,Mt. Pleasant, MI 48858989-775-3700
Superior Growers Supply19582 Middlebelt Road,Livonia, MI 48152248-473-0450
Superior Growers Supply4870 Dawn Avenue,East Lansing, MI 48823517-332-2663
The Grow Store721 W. Blue Star Drive,Traverse City, MI 49684231-421-5191
Van Hydro7480 N State,Davison, MI 48423810-653-8267
Wild Child7740 M 72 East,Traverse City, MI 49690866-711-GROW
MINNESOTAAmerican Garden Supply601-6th Avenue, North,Princeton, MN 55371763-631-0543Brew and Grow8179 University Avenue,Fridley, MN 55432612-780-8191Eco Garden Supply800 Transfer Door 25 in rearSt. Paul, MN 55114651-647-1896Eden Indoor Organic Gardens831 Highway 75 NorthMoorhead, MN 56560218-477-EDEN (3336)Indoor Gardening10 NE 3rd Street,Faribault, MN 55021507-209-1546Interior Gardens115 -1620 Central Avenue NE,Minneapolis, MN 55413800-498-4178; 612-870-9077Midwest Hydroponics3440 Belt Line Boulevard, Suite A, Minneapolis,MN 55416888-449-2739Still-H2O Inc.14375 North 60th Street,Stillwater, MN 55082651-351-2822
MISSOURIDivine Hydroponics301 North Bishop Avenue,Rolla, MO 65401573-426-2348Dr. Green Thumbs1106 West Park,Livingston, MO 59047406-222-7440Grow Your Own Hydroponics3617 Saint John Avenue,Kansas City, MO 64123816-241-2122Green Circle Hydroponics12 East Missouri,Kansas City, MO 64106816-421-1840Heartland Hydrogardens5695 E. Clark Lane, Suite L,Columbia, MO 65202573-474-GROW (4769)Let It Grow - Springfield2519 E. Kearney Street,Springfield, MO 65803417-862-GROWLet It Grow - Girardeau879 S. Kings Highway,Cape Girardeau, MO 63703573-803-0628U-Grow1724 North, 13th Street,St. Louis, MO 63106314-452-6368Worm’s Way Missouri1225 North Warson Road,St. Louis, MO 63132800-285-9676
MONTANAAlpengrow Nursery Supplies238 Highway 93 S.,Eureka, MT 59917406-882-4496Bizzy Beez LLP5875 Highway 93 S,Whitefish, MT 59937406-863-9937
NEBRASKAAdvanced Hydro-Ponics10711 Mockingbird Drive,Omaha, NE 68127 (108th and L-Q)402-991-6630
Paradigm Gardens8949 J Street, Suite 5,Omaha, NE 68127402-339-4949
Patio-Ponics3255 Cornhusker Highway, Suite 4Lincoln, NE 68504402-466-9218
NEVADAAAA Indoor Organic Garden SuperCenter2101 S. Decatur Boulevard, #21,Las Vegas, NV 89102702-450-4769
Advanced Gardens Hydroponics3111 South Valley View, (on Desert Inn West of Valley View) Suite V103Las Vegas, NV 89102702-257-4769
All American Hydroponics2675 East Patrick Lane, Unit 8,Las Vegas, NV 89120702-894-9888
Anything Grows190 West Moana Lane,Reno, NV 89509775-828-1460
Carson Valley Hydroponics2520 Empire Ranch Road,Carson City, NV 89701775-884-4769
Lorraine Ink290 Spear Court,Fernley, NV 89408775-575-7757
Nevada Hydroponics4700 B Maryland, Suite 1,Las Vegas, NV 89119702-798-2852
NEW HAMPSHIREHydro World17 White Birch Lane,Lincoln, NH 03251603-745-3030
NEW JERSEY77HYDRO37 Fairfield Place,West Caldwell, NJ 07006877-774-9376
Claraqua4 Redwood Court,West Windsor, NJ 08550
East Coast Horticultural Supply1652 Hurffville Road,Swewell, NJ 08080856-228-5290
Garden State Hydroponics511 Avenel Street,Avenel, NJ 07001888-300-8711
Green Touch 2 Hydroponics Inc.888 Route 33, Unit 1,Hamilton, NJ 08619609-570-8829
NEW MEXICOAHL Garden Supply1051 San Mateo Blvd. SE,Albuquerque, NM 87108505-255-3677
Common Shaman1319 San Mateo N.E.,Albuquerque, NM 87110505-255-6463
NEW YORKBronx Hydro & Garden39 Bruckner Boulevard,Bronx, NY 10454718-993-3787
California Hydroponics27 Corporate Circle,East Syracuse, NY 13057315-432-9387
MAXIMUM YIELDdistributors
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135MAXIMUM YIELD USA - February 2010
East Coast Hydroponics14649 Horace Harding Exp,Flushing, NY 11367718-762-8880Environmental Gardens8 John Walsh Boulevard, Suite 310Peekskills, NY 10566800-254-0507; 914-736-6676FutureGarden Inc.59 Central Avenue,Farmingdale, NY 11735516-420-0884Greentree Nursery308 Elmira Road,Ithaca, NY 14850607-272-3666Grow Room, The8 Bridge Street,Nyack, NY 10960800-449-9630Harvest Moon HydroponicsHenrietta Townline Plaza, 3047 West Henrietta Road,Rochester, NY 14623716-865-7353Harvest Moon Hydroponics340 West at 59,Central Nyack, NY 10960Harvest Moon Hydroponics147 Fourth Street,Troy, NY 10960Healthy Harvest Organics and Hydro163 Broadway,Fort Edwart, NY 12828518-480-4698Hudson Valley Hydroponics217 Route 32 North,New Paltz, NY 12561845-255-3633Hydro Garden Center1069B Lyell Avenue,Rochester, NY 146061-800-277-1322Hydroponics of Buffalo1497 Hertel Avenue,Buffalo, NY 14216716-838-3545Hydroponics Shops of America2606 Erie Boulevard,Syracuse, NY 13224315-251-2516Indoor Outdoor Gardener8223 5th Avenue,Brooklyn, NY 11209718-836-2402KG Garden Supply1327 Floyd Avenue,Rome, NY 134401-877-KG-HYDROSaratoga Organics & Hydroponic Supply19 Front Street,Ballston Spa, NY 12020518-885-2005; 800-850-4769Sunlight Solutions Hydroponics2045 Niagara Falls Boulevard, Suite 13,Niagara Falls, NY 14304888-GROWBOXSunset Hydroponics & Home Brewing1590 West Ridge Road,Rochester, NY 14615866-395-9204
NORTH CAROLINABe Well Hydroponics & Urban Gardening4732 Monroe Road,Charlotte, NC 28205704-344-8010BWGS East4045 Perimeter West Drive, Suite 400Charlotte, NC 28214800 316 1306Fifth Season Gardening Company45 Banks Avenue,Asheville, NC 28801828-253-4112Fifth Season Gardening Company106 South Greensboro Street,Carrboro, NC 27510919-932-7600Fifth Season Gardening Company1616 D-3 Battleground Avenue,Greensboro, NC 27408336-271-3373
Fifth Season Gardening Company5619-A Hillsborough Street,Raleigh, NC 27606919-852-4747
Flow & Grow Hydroponics & Organic Garden Center4521 Cumberland Road,Fayetteville, NC 28306910-423-FLOW (3569)
High Tech Garden Supply2712 B Freedom DriveCharlotte, NC 28208704-697-0911
New Age Gardens2236A US Highway 70,Swannanoa, NC 28778828-299-9989
Progressive Gardens6005 Oleander Drive,Wilmington, NC 28403910-395-1156
Urban Organics and Hydroponics4604 W. Market Street, Suite 106,Greensboro, NC 27407336-316-0604
Water’s Edge Hydro-Gardens & Organics107 South White Street,Wake Forest, NC 27587919-562-5343
OHIOAdvanced Hydrorganics Indoor Garden Center5204 Darrow Road,Hudson, OH 44236234-380-1287
Akron Garden Center434 W Wilbeth Road,Akron, OH 44314330-724-2700
Cleveland Garden Center Inc.727 East 185th Street,Cleveland, OH 44119216-481-7868
CropKing134 West Drive,Lodi, OH 44254330-302-4203
Carefree Garden Center134 West Drive,Lodi, OH 44254330-302-4203
Dayton Hydroponics3856 Miamisburg-Centerville Road, West Carrolton, OH 45449937-859-3999
Garden Indoors of Ohio4720 Indianola Avenue,Columbus, OH 43214800-833-6868
Greenleaf Hydroponics1805 Elm Road,Warren, OH 44483330-372-1039
Harvest Moon9215 Market Street,Youngstown (North Lima), OH 44452800-776-8399
Garden Grove Organics29 East 7th Street,Covington, (Cincinnati Metro), KY 41011859-360-1843
Grow Wizard, The5700 Denison Avenue,Cleveland, OH 44102216-961-2500
Herb-N-Garden Center14901 Puritas Avenue,Cleveland, OH 44135216-252-2001
Indoor Garden Worx906 Blue Avenue,Zanesville, OH 43701866-900-9679
Indoor Gardens1222 Hill Road, North,Pickerington, OH 43147614-866-6065
Kissed by the Sun Hydroponic10740 Reading Road,Cincinnati, OH 45241513-769-0159
Magic Home Gardens209 Cemetery Road,Canal Winchester, OH 43110614-837-2440
Magic Home Garden4538 Indianola Avenue,Columbus, OH 43214614-263-2440
Summit Hydroponics1030 Kenmore Boulevard Akron, OH 44314-2114330-753-5222
Sweet Greens5540 Brecksville RoadIndependence, OH 44131800-421-7084
Super Harvest5956 A Colerain Avenue,Cincinnati, OH 45239513-385-5999
Toledo Hydroponics Ltd.855 S. Holland-Sylvania Road, Suite 2Toledo, OH 436151-877-893-0716
Trinity Hydro Organics435 Woodman DriveRiverside, OH 45431937-252-GROW
Urban Gardens671 E. Center StreetMarion, OH 43302740-375-2800
Worm’s Way - Greater Cincinatti / N. Kentucky1360 Donaldson Road(Route 236), Suite A,Erlanger, KY 41018800-669-2088
OKLAHOMAAAAAHA! Hydroponics Unlimited P.O. Box 74,Oakhurst, OK 74050
Organics OKC Garden Supply3620 N Pennsylvania Avenue,Oklahoma City, OK 73118405-528-GROW
Tulsa County Hydro-Organics1928 W. Albany,Broken Arrow, OK 74012918-259-HYDRO
Urban Garden3141 E. 15th Street,Tulsa, OK 74104918-289-0018
OREGONAmerican Agriculture9220 Southeast Stark Street,Portland, OR 97216800-433-6805
Anthony’s Garden & Light Supply93779 B Troy Lane,Coos Bay, OR 97420541-266-8822
Aqua Serene2836 W. 11,Eugene, OR 97402541-485-2171
Aqua Serene Hydro Gardens465 Applegate Way,Ashland, OR 97520541-482-7600
Basin Indoor Gardening1221 Main Street, Klamath Falls, OR 97601541-273-2023
B.I.G.S.155 SW Century Drive, Suite 401,Bend, OR 97702541-385-5222
BIGS Warehouse2606 SW 4th Street, Unit BRedmond, OR 97756541-504-8886
136 MAXIMUM YIELD USA - February 2010
Garden Supplies
Cascade Horticulture39570 Pioneer Boulevard,Sandy, OR 97055503-668-8242
Corvallis Hydroponics & Organics5490 Philomath Road,Corvallis, OR 97333541-738-2820
Everybody’s Garden Center2701 SE 14th Avenue,Portland, OR 97202800-669-5483
Forever Green Organic Hydro Gardens7530 Crater Lake Highway,White City, OR 97503541-826-2946
Garden Spout, The4532 South East 63rd Avenue,Portland, OR 97206503-788-4769
Gorge Garden Center1203 12th Street Suite H,Hood River, OR 97031541-386-GROW
Gorilla Garden Supply1810 Virginia Avenue,North Bend, OR 97459541-756-5005
Green Thumb Hydrogarden and Organic Supply2021 West Main Street,Medford, OR 97501541-779-8600
Grow America Garden Supply LLC11511 SW Pacific Highway,Tigard, OR 97223503-841-6868
Growing Crazy (Hooked On Hydroponics)817 W. 2nd Street,Medford, OR 97501
H2organic LCC620 NE 3rd Street,McMinnville, OR 97128503-434-6107
Herb N’ Jungle Hydroponics930 SE Textron Drive,Bend, OR 97702541-382-4010
Homegrown Garden Supply7112 NE Gilsan Street,Portland, OR 97213877-EZ2-GROW
In and Out Gardens1574 Skypark DriveMedford, OR 97501541-858-3333
Indoor Garden Center1697 SE 25th Street,Salem, OR 97302503-566-7888
Indoor Garden Depot15828 SE McLoughlin Boulevard,Milwaukie, OR 97267503-786-2445
Indoor Garden Supply536 SW 6th Street (rear alley),Redmond, OR 97756541-504-7750
Island Flowers & Indoor Garden Center909 N. Tomahawk Island Drive, Suite 103, Portland, OR 97217503-546-3185
J-N-B Hydro 2 Go155 West Central Avenue,Sutherlin, OR 97479541-459-9211
Ladybug Indoor Gardens3960 W. Main Street,Medford, OR 97501541-618-4459
Lights Distributing9843 SW 55th Avenue,Portland, OR 97219
Liquid Sun1845 Southwest Highway 101,Lincoln City, OR 97367541-994-7070
Moonshine Park Farm135 South East 62nd, Unit FSouth Beach, OR 97366541-444-2298
Northern Light and Garden Beaverton9290 SW Beaverton-Hillsdale Highway, Beaverton, OR 97005503-297-7331
Northern Light and Garden Grants Pass1203 Rogue River Highway,Grants Pass, OR 97527541-474-1700
Northern Light and Garden Salem1915 Lancester Drive,Salem, OR 97305503-364-4769
Oregon Rainforest Co.19949 E. Burnside Street,Gresham, OR 97233503-465-9909
Paradise Supply Inc.1409 N. Highway 99,Ashland, OR 97520541-552-1037
Rain or Shine13126 NE Airport Way,Portland, OR 97230503-255-1981
Roots Garden Supply5426 North Gay Avenue,Portland, OR 97217503-285-4768
Roseburg Hydroponics853 SE Stephens Street,Roseburg, OR 97470541-229-1420
SunInside Gardening Co.665 Conger, Unit F,Eugene, OR 97402541-686-9966
Urban Flora2865 South East,Portland, OR 97214503-236-3344
Westcoast Organic and Hydroponic Supply12410 SE 282nd Avenue, Unit CBoring, OR 97009503-766-4106
Wizard's Garden, LLC621 Spruce Street, Unit C,Myrtle Point, OR 97458541-572-2333
PENNSYLVANIAFull Bloom Hydroponics84 South 24th Street,Pittsburgh, PA 15203888-872-3602
Garden Indoors of Pennsylvania208 Route 13,Bristol, PA 19007800-227-4567
Harvest Moon Hydroponics1239 South Airport Road,Allentown, PA 18103610-432-4949
Healthy Gardens and Supply1012 Lincoln Avenue,Prospect Park, PA 19076866-32-HYDRO
High Tech Garden Supply20232 Route 19, Unit 6,Cranberry Twp., PA 16066724-473-1113
Home Hydroponics of Pittsburgh2008 Smallman Street,Pittsburgh, PA 15222412-232-7030
Home Hydroponics of Pittsburgh830 Route 119,Greensburg, PA 15601724-836-1118
RHODE ISLANDHydro-Earth1243 Mineral Springs Avenue,North Providence, RI 02904401-305-5520
LiquidSun® RI1179 Central Avenue,Pawtucket, MA 02861401-722-2724
SOUTH CAROLINA247 Garden Supply535 D Clemson Road,Columbia, SC 29229803-788-4445
All Good Hydroponics & Gardening6729 Two Notch Road,Columbia, SC 29223803-708-4819
GreenSpirit Hydrogarden1864 Meeting Street,Charleston, SC 29405843-225-1GRO;
Green Thumb Unique Gardening & More1230 Rutherford Road,Greenville, SC 29609864-271-8830
SOUTH DAKOTAGreen Earth Products Inc.5700 Highway 79 S.,Unit 1,Rapid City, SD 57702605-342-1307
TENNESSEEAdvanced Hydroponic Garden783 French Mill Road,Dandridge, TN 37725800-521-1643
Advanced Hydroponic Garden6912 Clinton Highway,Knoxville, TN 37921866-938-3318
All Seasons Gardening and Brewing Supply Co.924 8th Avenue, South,Nashville, TN 37203800-790-2188
Atlantis Hydroponics1800 Rossville Avenue, #3,Chattanooga, TN 37408423-752-5400
National Garden Wholesale/Sunlight Supply126 Belinda Parkway,Mt. Juliet, TN 37122888-265-9005
Perpetual Harvest75 Riverport Drive,Jackson, TN 38301877-422-3391
Sun City Hydroponics2235 Whitten Road, Suite 104,Memphis, TN 38133901-372-8100
Worm’s Way Tennessee707 Rivergate Parkway, Suite EGoodlettsville, TN 37072800-397-4153
TEXASAirline HydroponicsP.O. Box 980904, Trader’s Village #363,Houston, TX 77098713-942-0484
Botani Hydroponics & Organics7730 Highway 6 SouthHouston, TX 77083281-575-1999
Brite Ideas Hydroponics & Organics4360 S.Congress Avenue, #310,Austin, TX 78745512-444-2100
MAXIMUM YIELDdistributors
137MAXIMUM YIELD USA - February 2010
Field of Dreams Indoor Growing Supplies5302 Slide Road Unit B,Lubbock, TX 79414806-793-2901
GreenMaker Nursery3030 Northwest Loop,Stephenville, TX 76401254-965-7273
GroGreen Hydroponics4015 Main Street,Dallas, TX 75226214-370-9984
Happy Harvest1500 Crescent Drive, #202Carrollton, TX 75006972-820-9376
Houston Discount Hydroponics9384 Richmond Avenue,Houston, TX 77063713-464-9406
Hydro Mart3841 Main Street,Rowlett, TX 75088972-475-6114
Innergrow Hydroponics24451 Interstate Highway 20,Wills Point, TX 75169866-475-4769
Jolly Green Hydroponics (Greenhouse Horticultural Supplies)13628 Neutron Road,Dallas, TX 75244(866) WE-JOLLY; 469-341-5555
Lone Star Hydroponics and Organics1302 Motor Circle,Dallas, TX 75207214-634-9376
Sol Organics & Hydroponics1634 Babcock Road,San Antonio, TX 78229210-366-9082
Texas Growers Supply5990 N. Sam Houston Pkwy. E. #602,Humble, TX 77396281-441-3739
Texas Hydroponics & Organics (Central Austin)5126 Burnet Road,Austin, TX 78756512-459-4769
Texas Hydroponics & Organics (South Austin)2125-A Goodrich Avenue,Austin, TX 78704512-440-4769
Texas Hydroponics & Organics (Dallas)3400 Elm Street,Dallas, TX 75226214-744-4769
Texas Hydroponics & Organics (Houston)7730 A Park Place Boulevard,Houston, TX 77087713-641-4769
Ultimate Hydroponic Garden Supply6125 West Sam HoustonParkway, North Suite 206Houston, TX 77041713-856-8425
UTAHSalt Lake Plant & Hydro60 West 3300 S. #6,South Salt Lake, UT 84115801-488-3200
VERMONTGreen Thumb GardeningP.O. Box 235, Route 15,Underhill, VT 5489800-564-9376
Greenthumb - Vermont394 Route 15,Jericho, VT 05465 802-899-4323
LiquidSun® VT1 Bellows Falls Road, (Route 5 North)Putney, VT 05158802-387-1100
VIRGINIABlue Ridge Hydroponics & Home Brewing Co.5524 Williamson Road, Suite 11Roanoke VA 24012540-265-2483
Clean & Green Technologies196 Corning Drive,Christiansburg, VA 24073866-694-1628
Hydroponics & Growlights13400 Occoquan Road,Woodbridge, VA 22191703-490-0700
I Love Hydroponics612 N. Sheppard Street,Richmond, VA 23221804-377-3020
I Love Hydroponics368 Newtown Road, #105,Virginia Beach, VA 23462757-490-5425
Inside-Out Garden Supply6517 Backlick Road,Springfield, VA 22150703-451-3259
WASHINGTONAqua Serene3839 Stone Way North,Seattle, WA 98103206-547-GROW
Eco Enterprises1240 NE 175th Street, #BShoreline, WA 98155800-426-6937
Garden Smart500 Bond Drive,Castlerock, WA 98611360-274-7960
Green Gardens Distributing12738 Bel-Red Road,Bellevue, WA 98005425-454-5731
Hydro-Tech2121 Aurora Avenue, North,Seattle, WA 98103206-547-2202
Indoor Garden Depo6305 NE Highway 99,Vancouver, WA 98665360-993-7779
Indoor Garden & Lighting3839 6th Avenue,Tacoma, WA 98406253-761-7478
Indoor Garden & Lighting23303 Highway 99, Suite A,Edmonds, WA 98026425-673-2755
Indoor Garden & Lighting714 South Central Avenue,Kent, WA 98032253-373-9060
Indoor Garden Supply LLC1950b Belmont Loop,Woodland, WA 98674360-841-8055
Kent Garden Supplies Ltd.18817 East Valley Highway,Kent, WA 98032425-251-9299
Kitsap Garden & Lighting2130 6th Street,Bremerton, WA 98312360-377-1277
Linda’s Gardening & Hydroponics11522 Canyon Road East,Puyallup, WA 98373253-531-9641
Liquid Sunshine Hydroponics5087 Lincoln Road,Blaine, WA 98230
M & R Lighting17238 Memorial Drive,Mt. Vernon, WA 98273360-848-1080
M & R LightingUnit C 22914 Highway 410,Buckley, WA 98390253-891-4190
National Garden Wholesale / Sunlight Supply5408 NE 88th Street, Building A,Vancouver, WA 98665888-478-6544
Northern Light and Garden Vancouver6305 NE Highway 99,Vancouver, WA 98665360-993-7779
Northern Lights Gardening4159 Hannegan Road,Bellingham, WA 98225360-715-8585
Northwest Horticulture Supply161 Hooker Road, #1,Sequim, WA 98057360-582-0702
Renton Indoor Garden Center207 Sunset Blvd. N, Building A,Renton, WA 98055425-917-9000
River City Hydroponics1514 East Francis Avenue,Spokane, WA 99208509-464-0246
Solar Shop306 West 4th Street,Tonasket, WA 98855509-486-4508
Spokane Organic and Hydroponic Supply4823 East Sprague Avenue E.,Spokane Valley, WA 99212509-534-4055
WISCONSINAric's Indoor Garden Supply1104 West Wisconsin Avenue,Appleton, WI 54914920-574-3258
Brew and Grow285 N. Janacek Road,Brookfield, WI 53045262-789-0555
Brew and Grow3317 Agriculture Drive,Madison, WI 53716608-226-8910
Grow BIG Hydroponics954 S. Westland,Appleton, WI 54914920-749-4769
Paradigm Gardens4539 Helgesen Drive,Madison, WI 53718608-241-3800
PUERTO RICOTecno-HydroAve Campo Rico GJ17,Carolina, PR 00982787-752-8252
WE THANK ALL OF OUR DEDICATED RETAILERS FOR OFFERING MAXIMUM
YIELD TO THEIR CUSTOMERS.
ARE YOU CURRENTLY DISTRIBUTINGMAXIMUM YIELD FROM YOUR
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