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MondayMarch 26, 2012
(The Coastal Zone and Waves)
The Launch PadMonday, 3/26/12
What happens to the water pressure, temperature, and light levels as you dive deeper
and deeper under the sea, and why?
Water pressure increases because more and more water is above you and is pressing down with its weight.
Temperature and light levels decrease because there is less and less solar radiation as you go deeper.
Assignment Currently Open
Summative or Formative
Date Issued Date DueDate Into
Grade Speed
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Quiz 23 S4 3/9 3/9 3/9 3/30
WS – Ocean Water
MovementsF 3/19 3/21
WS – Ocean Surface
CirculationF 3/20 3/22
Quiz 24 S5 3/23 3/23
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James Cameron Makes First Ever Successful Solo Dive to Mariana Trench
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Begin WorksheetThe Coastal Zone and
Waves
The Coastal ZoneA shoreline; it is the contact
between land and sea.The shore is the area
between the lowest tidal level and highest areas
affected by storm waves.The coastline is the seaward
edge of the coast.A beach is an accumulation
of sediment along the landward margin of the
ocean.
Figure 15.10
The Coastal Zone
WavesWaves are created by
energy traveling along the interface between ocean
and atmosphere (the surface.)
Waves derive their energy and motion from wind.
The major parts of a wave are:
the crest the trough
Wave MeasurementsWave height is the distance
between a trough and a crest.
Wavelength is the horizontal distance between successive crests (or troughs.)
Wave period is the time interval for
one full wave to
pass a fixed position.
Characteristics and Movement of a Wave
Figure 15.12
WavesWave height, length, and period depend upon:
the wind speed the length of time the wind blows.
Fetch is the distance that the wind travels. As the wave travels, the water passes energy
along by moving in a circle The waveform (energy) moves forward.
At a depth of about one-half the wavelength, the movement of water particles becomes
negligible (called the wave base.)
Changes That Occur When a Wave Moves Onto Shore
Figure 15.14
Wave ErosionWave erosion is caused by
wave impact and pressure.
Wave erosion breaks down rock material and
supplies sand to beaches.
The sawing and grinding action of water armed with rock fragments is
called abrasion.
Sand Movement on the BeachBeaches are composed of
whatever material is available.
Sand Movement on the BeachSome
beaches have a
significant biological
component.
Sand Movement on the BeachBeach material does not stay
in one place.Wave energy moves large quantities of sand parallel and perpendicular to the
shoreline.
Beach and Shoreline Processes
The result of wave refraction is that wave energy is concentrated against the sides and
ends of headland. Wave erosion straightens an irregular
shoreline
Wave refraction is the bending of a wave so that the wave arrives
parallel to the shore
Beach and Shoreline Processes
Longshore transport consists of the movement of sediments (generally
sand, but may also consist of coarser sediments such
as gravels) along a coast at an angle to the shoreline,
which is dependent on prevailing wind direction.
Beach and Shoreline ProcessesBeach drift is one of the most important transport mechanisms results from wave
refraction.
Since waves rarely break onto a shore at right angles, the upward movement of
water onto the beach (swash) occurs at an oblique angle.
However, the return of water (backwash) is at right angles to the beach, resulting in the net movement of beach material
laterally.
This movement is known as beach drift.
The endless cycle of swash and backwash and resulting beach drift can be observed on all beaches. – sediment
moves in a zigzag pattern along the beach face.
Beach and Shoreline Processes
Longshore current is current that flows in the
surf zone.
Longshore current flows parallel to the shore,
and moves substantially more sediment than
beach drift.
Beach Drift and Longshore Currents
Figure 15.18
Shoreline Features Shoreline features created by
erosional effects include:Wave-cut cliffs
Wave-cut platforms Marine terraces
Sea archesSea stacks
Figure 15.24 A
A Sea Stack and a Sea Arch
Figure 15.21
Shoreline Features Depositional Features
A spit is a ridge of sand extending from
the land into the mouth of an
adjacent bay with an end that often hooks
landward.
Figure 15.24 C
Shoreline Features Depositional Features
A baymouth bar is a sand bar that
completely crosses a bay.
Aerial View of a Spit and
Baymouth Bar Along the
Massachusetts CoastlineFigure 15.22 A
Shoreline Features Depositional Features
A tombolo is a ridge of sand that
connects an island to the
mainland.
Figure 15.24 B
Shoreline Features Depositional Features
Barrier islands occur mainly along the Atlantic and Gulf Coastal Plains.
They run parallel the coast and can originate
in several ways.
Stabilizing the Shore Shoreline erosion is
influenced by several local factors
–the proximity to sediment-laden rivers
–the degree of tectonic activity
–the topography and composition of the land –the prevailing wind and
weather patterns –the configuration of the
coastline
Stabilizing the Shore Responses to Erosion Problems
“Hard stabilization” refers to building structures to lessen the
effects of shoreline erosion.Types of structures
Groins are barriers built at a right angles to the beach that are
designed to trap sand.Breakwaters are barriers built
offshore and parallel to the coast to protect boats from breaking
waves.Seawalls armors the coast against
the force of breaking waves. Often these structures are not
effective.
Stabilizing the Shore Responses to Erosion Problems
Alternatives to hard stabilization:
In beach nourishment, sand is added to the beach
system. Relocating buildings away from a beach
Miami Beach Before and After Beach Nourishment
Figure 15.28 A
Stabilizing the Shore Responses to Erosion Problems
Shoreline erosion problems are different along the different
U.S. coasts.Along the Atlantic and Gulf Coasts, development occurs
mainly on barrier islands that face the open ocean.
These islands receive the full force of storms.
Development has taken place more rapidly than our
understanding of barrier island dynamics.
Stabilizing the Shore Responses to Erosion Problems
Shoreline erosion problems are different along the different U.S. coasts.
The Pacific Coast is characterized by relatively narrow beaches
backed by steep cliffs and mountain ranges.
The major problem here is the narrowing of the beaches.
Sediment for beaches is interrupted by dams and
reservoirs; therefore, rapid erosion occurs along the beaches.
Coastal Classification
Shoreline classification is difficult, and is
based mainly on changes with
respect to sea level.
An emergent coast is caused by an
uplift of the land, or a drop in sea level.
Coastal Classification
Features of an emergent coast
include: wave-cut cliffs marine terraces
Coastal Classification
Submergent coasts are caused when the land adjacent to the
sea subsides, or sea level rises.
Features of a submergent coast include:
a highly irregular shoreline
estuaries – drowned river mouths
Major Estuaries Along the East
Coast of the United States
Complete WorksheetThe Coastal Zone and
Waves