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Measuring and Explaining the “Creature Measuring and Explaining the “Creature Comforts” of Performance TextilesComforts” of Performance Textiles
Sponsored by Sponsored by
Testing for Testing for Functional TextilesFunctional Textiles
3
Tear Strength
Tearing Strength
Standards involved: ISO 13937-1/2; ASTM D1424; ASTM D2261; ISO 3377-2; BS EN ISO 4674, etc
Apparatus involved: Elmendorf Tester or Universal Strength Tester –CRE;
The tearing strength is maximum force needed to continue tearing of a fabric that has a pre-cut opening in the specimen.
4
Tensile Strength / Elongation
Tensile Strength / Elongation at Break
Standard involved: ASTM D 5034; ASTM D2209; BS EN ISO 3376; BS EN ISO 13934-1 & 2, etc
Apparatus involved: Universal Strength Tester –CRE
The tensile strength is determined by a force at a constant rate of extension to a fabric sample held in place by one fixed and one moveable jaw. The force required for a break in the fabric is recorded. The elongation at break is also recorded by the strength tester.
5
Seam Strength / Slippage
Seam Strength / Slippage
Standard involved: ASTM D1683; JIS L1093; ISO 13935-1/2, BS EN 13572
Apparatus involved: Universal Strength Tester –CRE
The seam strength is determined by stretching a seam aligned midway between the gripping jaws, the maximum force before seam breakage is recorded. Seam slippage is similar to seam strength, instead that the force is measured when the seam has slipped to a defined displacement. The seam is not ruptured in the process
6
Bursting Strength
Bursting Strength
Standard involved: ASTM D3786; ASTM D3787; JIS L1096; BS EN ISO 13938-1 & 2, etc
Apparatus employed: Hydraulic or Pneumatic Burst Testers and Ball Burst Tester
The specimen is clamped in a holder, a distension force, either by means of hydraulic, pneumatic, or mechanical means, is applied on the specimen until it ruptures. The bursting force is the maximum force recorded during the course of testing
7
Water Repellency/Resistance
Water Repellency/Resistance
AATCC 22 Spray Test
Apparatus employed: Spray tester,
The test procedure involves applying water to a specimen surface, using gravity. The after-test specimens are then assessed for amount and degree of surface wetting observed
8
Water Repellency/Resistance
Water Repellency/Resistance
AATCC 35 Rain Test
Apparatus employed: Rain Tester
The test procedure involves applying water to a specimen surface, under pressure. A blotting paper is behind the tested specimen during the test. The amount of water that penetrates the fabric and is absorbed by the blotting paper is measured after the test.
9
Odor Determination
Market EU US AS China Japan
Test Method Ref. SNV 195651
Fed. Std. 148a Method 11
N/A GB/T14272 JIS L1093
General Requirement
<3 <3 N/A <2 <3
PrincipleThe odor test indicates potential odor problems.
10
Odor Determination
The odor test is performed with reference to SNV 195651. The test specimen (40g) is placed on top of 300ml sodium carbonate solution and kept in a closed container. The container is put it into a oven set to a temperature of 37 +/-2°C for 15 hours.
Six people (minimum) are required to independently judge the odor intensity and rate it according to the following nomenclature:
Intensity Scales
Grade 1 – odorless
Grade 2 – weak odor
Grade 3 – tolerable odor
Grade 4 – annoying odor
Grade 5 – intolerable odor
11
Quick Dry / Moisture Management
Move sweat/moisture away from the body to the outer layer of the fabric
Tests:– Moisture Management – Drying rate– Wicking– Water Vapor Permeability– Air
12
Liquid Repellency
PrincipleTo determine the degree to which a mixture of water and alcohol would be absorbed into a fabric.
AATCC Test Methods 193
Liquids composed of different combinations of water and alcohol are dropped onto the surface of a fabric. The time it takes to be absorbed into the fabric is observed. The rating is the number that has been assigned to the liquid that is not absorbed into the fabric.
13
Moisture Management
PrincipleTo determine the moisture management characteristics of a fabric as a moisture management index
AATCC Test Methods 193
The results of the test are used to determine a moisture management index that is based on water resistance, water absorption and transport characteristics and wicking properties of the fabric structure including the fibers and yarns.
14
Wicking
PrincipleTo determine the degree to which a liquid moves up the length of a fabric
Fabrics are suspended in a measured depth of water and the distance that the water travels up the fabric specimen is measured over time.
Indication of moisture transport away from a source.
15
Drying Rate
PrincipleTo determine the rate at which a fabric will dry when wetted by water
Fabrics are wetted with a fixed amount of liquid and then exposed to heat. The drying rate of the fabric is determined by measuring the change in weight over time.
Indication of moisture transport away from a source.
16
Water Repellency/Resistance
Water Repellency/Resistance
AATCC 127 Hydrostatic Pressure Test
Apparatus employed: Hydrostatic head tester
The test procedure involves applying water under the surface of a fabric and measuring the amount of pressure it takes to force water through the fabric. The pressure to force 5 drops of water through the fabric is determined.
17
Air Permeability
Air Permeability
Standard involved: ASTM D737; BS EN ISO 9237; JIS L1096, etc
Apparatus employed: Air Permeability Tester
The sample is secured on the permeability tester. The tester then generates an air pressure gradient across both sides of the sample. The faster the rate of pressure gradient degeneration, the higher is the air permeability of the sample
18
Thermal Resistance
Thermal Resistance Provide thermal
insulation to body Tests:
– Thermal resistance value of fabrics
19
Functional Products
Major Test Items
• Garments
• Personal Apparel
• Hats
• Shoes
• Sportswear
• Swimwear
• Umbrella
20
Thank You
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