May 2014 huaraz telegraph

THE HUARAZ TELEGRAPHMade in Huaraz May 2014 Free/Gratis!

One-day entrance ticket fee for the

National Park up 100%

Continuation of our expat interviews

Expat in Huaraz

page 8

A new three-day ticket is brought into circulation (S/. 20,00) and the one-day ticket has increased from S/. 5,00 to S/.10,00

Ëndangered birds for sale on the main

street in Huaraz¨

American-Colombian cyclist Álvaro Perez Ramirez (insert) claims that there are birds threatened with extinction for sale on Luzuriaga and that the local police did nothing

when it was reported to them

page 3

page 16

www.thehuaraztelegraph.com

Another anniversary!

Víctor Rimac from Huaraz is heading off to Nepal in a bid to become the third Peruvian to reach the summit of Everest. In this exclusive interview Víctor tells THT

that it was actually a girl that got him into mountaineering and rock climbing

Interview with Víctor Rimac as he prepares to

conquer Everest

page 6

Roasted Chicken?

Delivery call: 043 - 427738

See the middle page for our exact location in Huaraz

PARQUE GINEBRA 30-B HUARAZ(043-426386) [email protected]

Q

2 The Huaraz TelegraphMAY 2014

VISIT: WWW.THEHUARAZTELEGRAPH.COM

The EditorialThe Huaraz Telegraph: One-of-a-kind, and

something Huaraz can be (and should be) proud of!Last year when we celebrated our first anniversary I wrote the following:

Looking back at the beginning of The Huaraz Telegraph I am so glad I gave it a go. Though this paper is not the only English newspaper in Peru, I still come across many people that are surprised to find out that Huaraz has its own English newspaper. Constructive criticism has made this paper better over time, and now it is even more interactive than before. The Huaraz Telegraph has been criticized in the past, but I know my place very well; I am an amateur, and proud of it. Previously I had neither the experience nor any clue how to make a newspaper, and on revision I still believe we did the best we could. Now it’s time to take steps to make The Huaraz Telegraph a household newspaper. I apologize for all the grammar and spelling mistakes made to date, but with the help of more proofreaders we should be able to minimize the errors, and with the help of enthusiastic volunteers, this paper will look more professional than ever.

Well, one year on I believe that we have taken the right steps to make The Huaraz Telegraph a household paper. Not only have we interacted more with our readers, we have been featured on the local news. Thanks to this newspaper, your editor got the opportunity to host a television programme on a local television network, and in doing so was given the opportunity to explain the purpose of The Huaraz Telegraph, (unfortunately I still need to remind some people that it´s for the good of the town), because at first glance some of our articles might not cast a favourable light on Huaraz. We have printed many stories since 2012, some positive and some negative. For instance one of the first articles covered the famous Santa Cruz trek that was affected by a landslide, and as the author I was accused of being responsible for the downfall of Huaraz. In 2013 the May edition of The Huaraz Telegraph reported that Huaraz-based agencies gave incomplete and inconsistent information when contacted by prospective tourists. Again it was deemed my fault that the tourist trade in Huaraz was being affected.

What people need to understand is that it is the job of The Huaraz Telegraph to inform and entertain. We are not trying to turn people away, or discourage them from visiting; we need them and we need their money so we can improve the city. What we are trying to achieve is transparency, and by publishing such articles we inform and educate, allowing tourists to take precautions to prevent bad things happening. Knowledge is power and if reading one of our stories means that a visitor will not take their iPhone or expensive camera to the Monterrey Hot Springs or the Rataquenua Cross, or leave their bags unattended outside shops, then I feel we have done our job. It is in the best interests of the paper (and the city) to increase tourist numbers in Huaraz, and I firmly believe that we can awaken Huaraz´ true potential, and get the tourist numbers we need. However, this will only be possible with the collaboration and support of the local officials and service providers such as hostel owners.

Speaking of hostels, our very first edition of this paper was available at 17 hostels and hotels, this year´s first edition will be distributed to no less than 40 hostels and hotels. It will also be available in the tourism office of i-Perú, cafés such as California and Andino, as well as local restaurants and bars. This means we are reaching a larger audience including the many English students attending Casa de Guias, and the Language Centre of the UNASAM.

One of the biggest improvements to be made since our launch is the reduction of spelling and grammar mistakes, as well as the increased quality of the writing. There is disappointing news though. Since the inauguration of The Huaraz Telegraph, back in April 2012, only one agency has placed an advert in the paper. I think the local business owners need to see the positive side of aligning themselves with The Huaraz Telegraph: advertising with us will expose their business to a wider audience. I am hoping that by the time this issue goes to print more businesses and agencies would have seen the light and agreed to advertise with us.

Here at The Huaraz Telegraph we are always on the look-out for interesting articles and stories to share with our readers. If you or someone you know would like to contribute to the paper we would love to hear from you. With that in mind I would like to say thank you to Brian Morra, Lauren Marchand, Marie Timmermans, Thomas Kristianson and many others for their valuable contributions to last year´s editions. I would also like to send a message to any and all prospective sponsors: let’s work together to make Huaraz a place to be proud of and a huge GRACIAS to all the sponsors who have participated in the making of the first of five editions of The Huaraz Telegraph.

I hope you enjoy this very first edition of 2014, and I look forward to hearing from you.

Rex Broekman

Founder and editor of The Huaraz Telegraph

The Huaraz Telegraph freely available!The Huaraz Telegraph is available for free at most of the following hostels and hotels in Huaraz. We do not recommend any hostel in particular as we are completely neutral.

The Telegraph® is a registered Trademark at INDECOPI. All current and previous articles are owned and claimed by The Huaraz Telegraph and may not be reproduced by any means without written permission from The Telegraph®. General Copyright on all Contents, Composition & Design by The Huaraz Telegraph, Huaraz, Perú - © 2012 – 2014. Hecho el deposito legal: ……

Who are responsable for the making of this great newspaper?

3The Huaraz TelegraphMAY 2014


Brief Local NewsHuascaran National Park facilities not expected to be improved until 2016 and

a secret meeting of Huaraz´ ¨top entrepreneurs¨ to ameliorate tourism

Continue reading on the next page...Clodoaldo Figueroa Blas (last on the right) says the park facilities are not to be improved soonThe Huaraz Telegraph

Last year, The Huaraz Telegraph reported on the proposed increase to the entrance fees for the Huascaran National Park. We can now confirm that in early February those responsible for the park announced new increased entrance prices for 2014. We visited the offices of the Huascaran National Park to ask about the price increase, and to see if the numerous complaints about the toilet facilities in the park have been acted on.

The Huaraz Telegraph has learned that as from January 1st this year there will be a range of tickets available. A new three-day ticket will cost 20 Soles, and will allow visitors into different sites within the park, such as Laguna 69, Pastoruri and Laguna Churup. There is also a special adventure ticket, which is valid for 21 days. The daily entrance fee has doubled from 5 Soles to 10 Soles for adults, and 3 Soles for children between 5 and 16 years of age, children under five enter for free as do people with disabilities. They have also introduced the social ticket which is available to local residents who are involved in the Huascaran Biosphere Reserve, giving them a 50% discount, and free access to the park on the last Sunday of every month. Guides, agencies, and tour-bus drivers are exempt from paying the entrance fees. It is interesting to point out that HNP is the only national park in Peru that actually makes a profit, which begs the question: why the fee increase? The answer is simple. Of Peru’s 77 Natural Protected Areas (NPAs) only 14 charge an entrance fee. Out of that revenue 30% goes to the upkeep of the remaining 63.

A monitoring programme is going to be established to ensure the rules are adhered to, but Edson Ramírez Henostroza of the HNP security and rescue department fears that it will be impossible to police as there are many ways of gaining access to the park.

When asked about the poor, and often completely lacking, toilet facilities in the park, Clodoaldo Figueroa Blas from SERNANP informed us that they are aware of the problem, and working on

Professional Guides’ Associations planned strike action thwarted by public outcry

A month before Easter, and the unofficial start of the high season in Huaraz, AGOTUR, AGOEMA and ARGOT announced a strike during Semana Santa (Holy Week). The walk-out was part of an ongoing campaign to oust the Directress of the Regional Directorate of Foreign Trade and Tourism (Dircetur) Maricela Cafferata Diaz, and for the resignation of Tourism Regional Director Aurora Muños Alegre. It was also to demanded fairer wages and a reference rate for official guides. They claim to want S/.5.00 soles per tourist for conventional tourism and $65.00 (sixty-five U.S. dollars) for guiding day hikes or more difficult adventures, as well as a rethink of the often too late and completely disorganized departure times for tourist attractions in the region. Another controversial issue is the tourism card which costs S/.65 soles and is only issued when guides speak a second language (not including Quechua). The guides claim that the tourism card, which is valid for three years, is the most expensive of its kind in Peru.

However, the strike was finally avoided when many concerned people and tourist-dependant businesses in Huaraz opposed the strike and opted for a dialogue to look for solutions, instead of scaring tourists away from Huaraz and making the already delicate reputation of tourism in Huaraz worse.

Lima’s Jorge Chavez airport named South America’s best for sixth time in a row

For the sixth consecutive year the International Airport of Lima has been voted Best Airport in South America at the 2014 World Airport Awards, which were held at the Passenger Terminal EXPO in Barcelona, Spain. Guayaquil Airport in Ecuador was runner up for a second year with Santiago de Chile Airport coming a respectable third. São Paulo’s Guarulhos Airport and Rio de Janeiro’s Galeão Airport were fourth and fifth respectively. London-based Air Transport Rating Organisation – Skytrax, polled over 12 million travellers in 410 airports across 110 countries. Respondents were asked to comment on 39 key performance indicators such as shopping, security, transfers, arrivals and check-in. The Skytrax Awards have been running since 1999.

The new entrance ticket fees since the 1st of January 2014 show a new type of ticket where camping is not allowed. This three day ticket gains access to all areas within the National Park

a refurbishment plan. However, he did insist that improvements will be gradual, and that Pastoruri will see the first of the refurbishments in 2015, with other improvement projects following. They are hoping to have all the work complete by 2016.

Huaraz´ “top entrepreneurs” unite at secret international meeting and make another attempt to improve tourism and quality of life

In February a number of Huaraz’ ¨top entrepreneurs¨ met in Hotel Andino ostensibly with the purpose of improving the quality of (their) life in Huaraz. And for reasons only known to them the meeting was not only private but involved a select number of people. Topics being discussed ranged from stray dogs to the danger of Laguna Palcacocha overflowing. It would seem though that some of the self-appointed experts present were a bit disappointed with the outcome of the meeting as they were under the impression that they were there to discuss developing an accreditation of ‘elite’ members where these select few can promote their ‘quality establishments’ in Huaraz i.e. their businesses, to foreign and domestic tourists.

As mentioned before, this was a secret meeting; however, according to our informant the initiators were: Wayne Lampier (officially being retired but still active as senior Socio-Environmental Consultant at Andean Alliance) and partner Diana Morris from Canada (owner of The Lazy Dog Inn and former manager for South American Explorers).

The Canadian couple invited Luis Buendia (owner of 13 Buhos Bar), Jose Vidal (general manager of Cable Andino), Julio Olaza (owner and guide of Mountain Bike Adventures), Christopher Mark Benway from the States (logistics coordinator of La Cima) and partner Isabel Blanca Meza Barron de Benway (owner of Café Andino), Terrence (Ted) Alexander from the US (guide and mountain instructor at Skyline Adventures and co-owner of Sierra Andina Brewing Company), Richard Colonia Fitzcarald (musician, composer and songwriter

of Turmanyé), Maria Luisa Abboud Boughosn and husband Benjamin Morales (owner of the X-treme bar and organizer of the Festival Del Andinismo), Cesar Sifuentes (General Manager of Sifuentes Expeditions), Miguel Torres Ramis of Rubrix Manufacturas although he was represented by his brother, Mauro Olaza (editor of the Huaraz Map Guide), Jaime Diaz Mego (manager of restaurant La Mediterranea), Jorge Mayuri Paredes (owner of restaurant Brasa Roja) and Joachim Fust from Switzerland (resident Manager of Hotel Andino) to the first meeting.

Fewer people attended the second meeting – held in the Lazy Dog Inn; however, a special commission was formed and Sifuentes, Colonia, Morales and Buendia were elected to research the concept of an action plan. A third meeting is planned for later this year but we only know that this meeting will again be private and only Huaraz´ most important (self-elected) entrepreneurs will be invited and it will be held on the third floor of Lucar y Torre number 530.

New climbing wall installed in Huaraz

Great news for climbing fanatics in Huaraz! A new climbing wall was inaugurated in March. The wall, constructed on the outside of the IESTP Eleazar Guzmán Barrón, which is a public technological institution, is located at Avenida Tecnológico, Shancayán, which is also the location of the National Boulder Championships on the 4th of May. The Huaraz Telegraph looks forward to reporting on the spectacle in the June edition.

The Huaraz Telegraph in search of volunteers

At The Huaraz Telegraph we are looking for English speaking volunteers willing to make a contribution to our paper; be it in graphic design, setting up and analysing surveys, improving and updating our website, working on articles, liaising with the printing company, or helping with the distribution or promoting The Huaraz Telegraph in the city. This could be people that are already in town and are maybe volunteering at some NGOs and have some free time, or people abroad who wish to get involved can apply. The Huaraz Telegraph is unable to offer paid positions; however, for long-term volunteers we could provide a free room with private bathroom. Are you interested in volunteering for The Huaraz Telegraph? Contact us at: [email protected].



Brief Local NewsContinuation of page 3

Miracles do happen! Peruvian hotel is named best in the world

According to a recent analysis by ReviewPro, the five-star Palacio Nazarenas located in Cuzco near Machu Picchu came top out of nearly 900,000 hotel reviews, beating the Northern Belle, a 1930-styled Belmond-owned train that offers overnight journeys in the UK, Scotland and the Lake District, and Jumby Bay, a high-end resort on a 300-acre private Caribbean island.

The Palacio Nazarenas, a former palace and convent, has undergone years of extensive restoration to be transformed into one of the most exclusive hotels in the world, with facilities including a heated swimming pool, guest lounge, a library, a stylish boutique, a lounge and a butler service. Number four of the list is the Oberoi Vanyavilas on the edge of the Ranthambhore Tiger Reserve in India, and fifth on the list is the Four Seasons Tented Camp, Golden Triangle in Thailand.

Fewer cases of theft reported by tourists in 2013

According to the Regional Committee of Public Safety (CORESEC) the number of crimes and offences has decreased dramatically in 2013 when comparing the same period of 2012. Petty theft has fallen by 66.6% with only 25 cases in 2013. Interestingly there has been only one report of swindling in 2013. The authorities in Huaraz are aware that more has to be done to keep numbers falling. Tourists need to be informed of the potential dangers of visiting the area. This will not have a negative impact on visitor numbers; London, New York and Glasgow are just a few cities popular with tourists whose local authorities make it clear to tourists the risks involved when visiting their cities, as well as precautions to take and things to look out for. Many tour websites give a list of Dos and Don’ts for visiting their country. This is a sensible option, tourists are aware that there are risks when visiting any city, but if they armed with the information they need not only will they act in a safe manner, but they will be more willing to visit because they can be confident in the knowledge that something is being done to keep them safe. This can also be true in Huaraz; if tourists know that we are actively dealing with the problems then they will feel safer.

Huaraz included in Lima Travel Guide

The Lima Travel Guide written by Colin Post and David Lee features advice from expats in living Peru, and an unbiased view on topics such as weather, festivals and events, money, and tourist visas. There are descriptions of neighbourhoods such as San Borja, Chorrillos, Miraflores and Pueblo Libre, as well as areas to avoid, for instance: Callao (Airport area), Villa el Salvador, San Juan de Lurigancho and Comas. Travellers looking for an apartment in Lima are also served as the guide includes some tips of where and what to look for. Chapter 11 has a

top ten of things to do in Lima including the Magic Water Circuit, Larcomar and The Palace of Justice. Maybe the most interesting location mentioned in the book is the Gamarra Textile Market; a favourite shopping location of the Telegraph´s editor. According to the Lima Travel Guide, the Gamarra makes an estimated $1.4 billion a year from its 100,000 daily visitors. There are also the usual mentions: Cusco and Machu Picchu, Arequipa, but surprisingly an addition to the list is Huaraz. Among the top five things to do are the Huascarán National Park, the Pastroruri Glacier, Chavin de Huantar and the Huayhuash circuit. The authors also included some of the better places to eat and drink with 13 Búhos, Chili Heaven and Café California among the ones being mentioned. The book will be available on Amazon and interested readers or possible buyers of the guide could go to limatravelguide.com or contact expat-chronicles.com for more information.

Open-air cooking course held at Hotel Andino

The annual three-day open-air cooking course was held at Hotel Andino from the 5th to the 7th of April. Thanks to the generosity of Mario Holenstein, manager of the hotel, cooks affiliated to the Mountain Tourism Operators’ Association (APOTUM) and other invited guests were treated to demonstrations in preparing high protein dishes as well as lessons in nutrition and food hygiene.

South African suffering HIV to be released on Valentine´s Day 2017

We recently visited the Víctor Pérez Liendo Penitentiary to deliver some handy stuff like soap and shampoo, but it was the English books that were most gratefully accepted by the only foreign inmate of the prison Lewis Charles Cornelious. Lewis is a 53-year-old ex-drugs mule suffering from HIV. As a foreigner Lewis is often victimized by the guards and other inmates, but that has made him stronger over the years. Lewis informed The Huaraz Telegraph that he is to be released on Valentine´s Day 2017, when he will most likely be escorted to Lima and put on a plane back to South Africa. Although Lewis admitted he was very happy with our visit, he told us that since our last visit in October 2013 sadly he has had no other visitors.

As you are reading this ask yourself: what it would be like living in a Peruvian prison without receiving visitors for six months? This is why Lewis kindly wants to ask readers to pay him a visit. The only thing he would like is a little chat with someone from the outside. As the author of previous articles I can assure readers that visiting the Víctor Pérez Liendo Penitentiary is without risks, and the Tourist Police can accompany you into the prison. Remember that visitors are not allowed to bring cell phones or fruits, but food, clothes or books are no problem, and bring your passport. Sunday is the best day to visiting Lewis as it is male visitor´s day. Female visitors should wear a long skirt and all visitors need to be sober; unlike an Irish lad who tried to visit the South African in 2012 and failed because he was intoxicated.

No clarity on number of tourists during Semana Santa

After a disastrous Easter in 2013 when hardly any tourists visited Huaraz, this year showed signs of improvement as many hostels and hotels were fully booked for the Semana Santa. At least, that’s what the local newspapers and TV were reporting. At the moment no official statistics have been released so we are unclear as to whether or not there were more tourists compared to last year. The one thing that is clear is that the spokesman for the National Park Huascaran has never taken statistics classes because according to him the Callejon de Huaylas was visited by 15,710 people resulting in an increase of 40% compared to last year 2013.

Furthermore, he announced that Lake Chinancocha in Llanganuco received 7,835 visitors, Pastoruri 3,145 tourists, Lake Querococha 2,748 and the gorge of Ulta which is found on the route Carhuaz towards the Tunnel of Chacas had 1,160 visitors.

Separate entrance tickets can be bought for each of these attractions and sites, meaning that tourists could have visited all four locations; however, the NPH counts each individual visitor as four, which skews their figures dramatically. Marco Cochachin Flores, president of ARGOT (Association of Professional Guides in Huaraz) also contradicted the NPH on radio Armonía Digital. According to him no more than 5,000 tourists visited the Callejon which is only a third of the number of tourists we received in the 80s.

Everest Avalanche kills a least 16 people

Two weeks ago the world received the alarming news that an avalanche on Everest had killed more than 16 Sherpas, with two others still missing. Hundreds of climbers are having difficulty coming down from the area above the avalanche as new routes need to be created. According to reports it is the deadliest avalanche in the Himalayas in eight years. A week after the horrific accident the Nepalese guides decided to abandon this year’s climbing season to honour their 16 colleagues. Fortunately, Huaraz resident Victor Hugo Rimac Trejo is safe, see page six for the interview we conducted with Victor prior to the trip, which has now been abandoned because of the avalanche.

Cleaning campaign coordinated from Mexico

On the 13th of April, members of the School of Peruvian Mountain Guides in Huaraz, and the Language Centre, coordinated with the Group Eco-Social Citlaltépetl from Chalchicomula, Puebla, Mexico spent the day cleaning the banks of the Mashuan River south of Huaraz. This brilliant initiative was a great success as more than 40 enthusiastic people collected 13 garbage bags of rubbish. Multiple clean-ups were taking place simultaneously in Guatamala, El Salvador, Costa Rica, Argentina and Spain, all coordinated by Lety M. Altamirano. Well done guys!

The Huaraz Telegraph

Manager and chef Mario Holenstein presenting different dishes high in protein at his hotel

Roman soldiers during the procession at Semana Santa near the Plaza de Armas in HuarazThe Huaraz Telegraph



Advertorial/Publirreportaje

Another season is upon us here in Huaraz and as a long-time resident of the city, it is always a great time of year to see the streets filling up with the travelers, trekkers and adventure seekers from all over the world who come to visit the Cordillera Blanca to explore and enjoy our terrific backyard!

The lure of the Cordillera is known throughout the world – the sweeping slopes of Mt. Artesonraju, the jagged skyline of the Cordillera Huayhuash, the stunning summit views from Mt. Pisco and the turquoise waters of Churup are just some of the awesomeness surrounding our town. Now while most of you are focused on the objectives surrounding the city, we are busy here helping your in-town days be just as fabulous. For that reason we created ‘Trivio Resto-Bar Sierra Andina’.

We named it TRIVIO – from the Latin word Trivium which means “the junction of three trails”. It was at these trail junctions that the people would take a moment on their way to the market or to work and catch up on what is going on and chat about the day-to-day stuff in their lives; hence the word ‘trivial’ has come to mean ‘day-to-day topics’.

As the name implies, our new restaurant TRIVIO is also a junction of three trails –

* The trail or story of our beer that we brew (Sierra Andina Brewing Company),

* The trail or story of the food that we prepare

* The trail or story of our own organic coffee that we grow and toast. (Shuqush Coffee)

It is our hope that, as our fore-fathers and fore-mothers did before, that you too take a moment to stop at Trivio, take a load off and connect with your friends and villagers.

But what makes Trivio a great place? Well …. Of course the best way to find that answer is to stop by and check it out for yourself but here is the quick list of what is awesome at Trivio:

1. During this season we will be serving our standard fine Sierra Andina ales that can be found in restaurants, bars and stores all over Peru, but in addition, only at Trivio, we serve on tap some specialty beers that are not found anywhere else in the world. Wheat beers, brown ales, zesty IPAs, coffee porters, and Creamy Oatmeal Stouts just to name a few of the beers that have flowed through our tap system in the past!

2. This season we have some live music nights lined up. We work hard at finding outstanding music groups from all over Peru to come and perform live at Trivio. Jazz, Classical and Folk music are what generally goes well with the cozy intimate ambiance in the restaurant. To get the latest dates of these events visit us on Facebook.

We do not charge entrance fees and the evenings are just terrific fun

3. Coffee to go – If you need that little zap of caffeine energy from a quality cup of coffee but simply don’t have the time to sit and chat – our ‘coffee to go’ might just make your day. Quality paper cups with a tight fitting lid can be your ticket to an excellent day!

4. Dynamite food. From giant sirloin steaks, garden fresh salads, to fire grilled hamburgers and fresh baked deserts – there is something for everyone!

5. Filtered water – If you are as tired as we are of seeing so many plastic bottles headed toward the land fill – remember – you can refill your water bottles with our carbon

filtered water. Don’t be shy. Just come on in and say – Hey, can you fill my water bottles for me, please? We are happy to do it and won´t charge you a thing. It is our way of trying to make the world a better place.

6. Our staff – Let me take a moment to be proud of the folks who work at Trivio. At the end of the day, they are the ones who make Trivio awesome. They have done a fabulous job at really focusing on several things – attentive service, being welcoming, and fresh delicious food. They are the ones that make it fun to be part of the team.

Well there you have it and while we are not perfect, we have a lot fun trying to be, and we really do look forward to meeting all of you and hearing about your adventures. So while you hike, climb and explore the area know that we will be waiting for you at the end with a pint of fine ale and a plate of fresh healthy food!

Horray for Huaraz!!

Ted Alexander

General Manager of Trivio &

Sierra Andina Brewing Company

A warm welcome to Huaraz from Trivio

Sierra Andina Beers can be ordered all over Huaraz but if you´d like a tap beer, please visit Trivio which can be found at Parque del Periodista in Huaraz or find our ad (Number G) on the middle page of this newspaper

Front view of Trivio Resto-Bar Sierra Andina, entrance on the right side, up the stairs

Patrons “taking a load off” at Trivio - organic coffee, craft beer and healthy food!



Interview

Victor Hugo Rimac is an accomplished climber and mountaineer, who has spent many years honing his craft. Here he tells The Huaraz Telegraph what inspired him and his plans to conquer Everest

Where does your passion for mountaineering come from?

It all started with a beautiful girl! My brother was a keen climber and mountaineer, and although he always tried to get me to give it a try, I just wasn’t interested. Until one day I saw a beautiful girl climbing, and that caught my attention and I wanted to join in, but because I had no experience I couldn’t even get off the ground. Little by little I started rock climbing. I soon discovered that the sport was expensive, so in order to earn money to practice I worked as a porter and a cook on expeditions, this also gave me valuable knowledge and experience in understanding the mountains as well as the sport.

There came a time in my life though when I had to focus on gaining an education, so the mountaineering took a back-seat, and I started studying physiotherapy; this also kept my mother happy. When I turned 21, I enrolled on a beginner’s mountain guide course in Casa de Guias. The course gave me the opportunity to climb different routes and mountains, and learn more techniques and so on. The biggest benefit was that I was able to gain experience in the off-season, because often when the high season ended, I was broke and needed to work elsewhere. But now I was able to join climbing groups, and still gain experience, which is how I ended up being part of the climbers’ world of Huaraz. Sometimes climbing feels like an addiction.

What is it that you learned at Casa de Guias, and who is your idol?

Well, before entering the Casa de Guias, I was also a member of the club CASAM. This is where I leaned the basics of climbing. The course at the Casa de Guias was more like a four-year specialization course, run by very talented and dedicated teachers to whom

I am extremely grateful. On the course I learned many new techniques, and am still learning actually; as a climber you never stop learning. It´s like life. My favourite climber is Jerzy Kukuczka from Poland. Kukuczka became the second man, after Reinhold Messner, to climb all 14 Eight-thousanders, (14 independent mountains on earth that are more than 8,000 metres). The feat was made even more special because apparently he always lacked money, but still managed to ascend all 14 mountains in just under eight years; a shorter time than any climber before.

conquered that mountain (Augusto Ortega in 1992, and Máximo Hipólito Henostroza Zambrano in 2004). Last year, Richard Hidalgo from Lima made an attempt but unfortunately because of bad weather conditions, and the lack of an oxygen bottle he never reached the summit. As I said before, it´s not something I had ever thought of before, because it´s nearly impossible for a lad from the provinces in Peru to find enough sponsorship to start such an adventure. Luckily thanks to Mr. Cueto I am able to do so, and I am very grateful to my sponsor LAN Airlines.

Did you try to find other sponsors to contribute to your expedition?

No, I owe everything to my sponsor LAN. I have tried to convince some local businesses here in Huaraz, but this was rather disappointing. I have to say thank you to the Association of Guides in Huaraz for their technical help and knowledge.

When we publish this interview, you will hopefully still be climbing in the Himalayas, could you share some insights of your trip?

My trip starts on Tuesday, 25th of March when I fly to Nepal. Then I will have a couple of days of rest in Kathmandu to acclimatise, after which I set off to climb the lowest of the Eight-thousanders – Shishapangma Mountain. It will take over two months to climb Everest, and I need to get used to climbing at those altitudes, that´s why I start with Shishapangma. Everest will obviously be more difficult. I have no idea who will be with me on my trip because it is an open expedition, so I just have to wait to meet my fellow climbers. I do know that the Sherpas are very strict on organization because they know the area better than anyone.

How do your colleagues react to the fact a young guy like you is going to do something they all want to do? Are they supporting you, applauding you or is there some envy?

This question is a bit difficult to answer. There is envy everywhere in life, but my colleagues are not like that. There

are just a couple of us and we are like brothers; we all share the same passion, but unfortunately circumstances mean that sometimes we cannot do the same things at the same time. It’s important to stress that any accomplishment or triumph in the mountains is something we should celebrate together, and not individually. I am supported by the Association of Guides, their director Renzo Moreno, and by all the other members. I mainly try to inspire others like other mountaineers like Américo Tordoya, Jerzy Kukuczka and others have inspired me, I hope to inspire youngsters.

Augusto Ortega was the first ever Peruvian to reach the summit of the Everest, have you had a chance to speak to him?

Yes I have! We talked about his experience in 1992, and Mr. Ortega gave me some technical tips, I consider him a strategic ally in my expedition. I am thankful to him for his time, he has always been very helpful. I owe him a lot!

What is your opinion on mountaineering in Huaraz and Peru?

I believe that mountaineering is becoming more important every year as it’s one of the contributing axes of tourism. People, agencies, guides and professionals should all work together to promote climbing in the area. I believe sustainable tourism is possible in Huaraz, and could change things, making the place self-sustaining in the near future. There is huge potential, but unfortunately mountaineering as a sport is not supported by the Peruvian Government. We climbers depend on private companies.

Anything else you would like to add?

Actually yes, I would like to send a message to the youngsters who are bored, or need some adventure, or just simply need something positive to focus on. The world of climbing and mountaineering is a noble one, it has mapped an exciting route for my life, and they should consider getting involved and giving it a go.

How have you prepared for your journey?

I have to say that my preparation started the day I climbed my first mountain. One has to be prepared at all times, for every eventuality. I combined athletics and swimming to increase my lung capacity. I also ran a lot in the mountains, and did a number of one-day climbs up Vallunaraju and Rimi Rima, leaving in the early morning and trying to get as far as I could.

Why have you decided to climb Everest?

This is actually an expedition that I never dreamed of doing. I never planned it, I didn’t even have it in mind to be honest. However, last year, I had the privilege of ascending the Huascaran with Ignacio Javier Cueto Plaza who is a commercial engineer, an entrepreneur and most of all, general manager of LAN Airlines. During the climb we chatted and got to know each other, and he suggested I should try to climb Everest, mainly because I mentioned to him that there had only been two Peruvians who


Víctor Rímac from Huaraz hopes to become the third Peruvian to reach the summit of Mount Everest

Victor at ease while bouldering in Huaraz

At the time of going to press an avalanche on Everest tragically killed 16 Sherpas. To the best of our knowledge Victor is safe. The staff at The Huaraz Telegraph both here and abroad send thoughts and prayers out to the families and loved ones of those lost on the mountain.



Local News

Held at the ruins of Willcahuain Willka Fest 2014 was the first of many Fests this year, and a very decent one. Co-organiser Yvan Leon Araya confirmed to The Huaraz Telegraph that organising an event like this isn’t easy, especially when you lack time and funds – sponsors contributed a little bit of money in return for some publicity. Leon is confident that this will become an annual event with this year’s success paving the way for a bigger and better Willka Fest 2015!

This year´s Willka Fest was announced less than a month before the actual event took place and there was competition on the day itself from a rock concert called Voces en los Andes, the fourth Gran Torro Match in Yungar, and Sábado de Gloria, which was celebrated by thousands in the centre of Huaraz. Not to mention the regular touristic attractions like the lakes of Llanganuco, the glacier of Pastoruri and of course the ancient ruins of Chavín de Huantar.

The organizers of this cycling extravaganza (the Farmers’ Association RUNTU CHAKIN – Willkawain, Markami Ride Club, Rym Riders Events, Youth Action Organization “ORAJU” and Ciclo Peru) convinced different cycle clubs in Lima to participate. On the day there were a number of competitions including: downhill biking, cross country cycle races, children’s cycling, kite flying and mixed volleyball. The local villagers of

First Willka Fest featuring music, extreme sports and donkeys deemed a success

some riders sporting cameras on their helmets. The start line was at the cross of Willcahuain (3,660 metres above sea-level) descending to 3390 metres. The newly designed circuit was 2.3 kilometres long and had 24 ramps, 35 terraces and 18 different gradients. The route took the riders through three different forests and there was also one stream to cross.

The downhill event had different categories:

Elite Dobles was won by Rudy Rivera Mejía with Christian Tamara Mejía and Jean Marco Villanueva Herrera coming second and third. In the Elite Rigidas category Antonio Paredes La Puente crossed the finish line in front of Yoner Camones Capillo to take first prize, with Frank Lee Alberto third. Klinton Albino Evangelista won the junior category.

The winner of the Elite Damas cross-country competition Yvonne Arredondo Espinoza told The Huaraz Telegraph that the circuit was spectacular and that she and her group had arrived four days earlier to get used to the altitude because Lima is at sea-level. Although very happy, she didn’t expect to win the event. Yvonne will be back on the 29th of June for the national championships.

The highlight of the day was the inauguration of a new type of race; the donkey cross competition, which was rather funny to watch, and the winner took home a new bicycle to delight to the spectators. The little ones weren’t forgotten by the organizers, with short routes in the junior categories.

As the sun set on the exciting and great day, visitors enjoyed a beer while listening to the music. In the end more than 500 people attended the Willka Fest.

Willcahuain prepared different types of dishes like chebichocho, choclo, cuy, llunca and pollo a la planca. There was free entry into the volleyball competition, sack race and tug-of-war, and spectators could relax and enjoy the afternoon sun with a nice cold beer provided by the community of Willcahuain. The event was brought to a close with a rock concert featuring many local bands. Pablo Vivar Jorge Barrios Luna was given the difficult task of being supervisory judge in charge of registering the times achieved by the competitors as well as the number of rounds completed.

The first competition (cross-country) started at 11 oćlock with local cyclists competing against members of Lima Bike, Keniro Bike MTB Club and Team Ciclo Peru. The cross-country race was won by Juan Carlos Sarmiento, with Cesar Sánchez Méndez and Marco Javier Dextre taking spots two and three in the Elite category. Wilfredo Osorio García won the Masters category. After the cross-country event the spectacular downhill competition took place with




Cameras on top of the helmets of the bikers

Burro cross: donkey riding donkey?

Awards ceremony for the little ones

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Expat in Huaraz

The Peruvian dreamAccording to the National Institute of Statistics and Informatics (I.N.E.I) 12,187 foreigners entered Peru in 2012 and stayed for over a year. The Huaraz Tele-graph is wondering whether these visitors came to see the wonders of Peru, or were they looking for the Peruvian dream? If the American dream is the idea that success is possible for every individual, does the Peruvian dream exist? And if so, can you reach for those ideals on the Latin American continent being an expat? It is fairly easy to spot a tourist in Hua-raz, with their tiny day-sacks and camera around their necks, whereas expats blend in; they adapt to the local way of life. But what motivates a person to uproot their entire lives, and leave their family and friends to go and live on another conti-nent? Over the course of the season The Huaraz Telegraph will endeavour to inter-view expats living in Huaraz, to give the readers an insight into why they decided to do just that. But first let’s look at some interesting statistics.

Although the following stats are accu-rate there is no statistical information on how many foreigners live in the Áncash region.

In the period from 1994 to 2012, there were 89,320 registered foreigners resid-ing in Peru that did not leave the country. Between 1994 and 2004 the number of foreigners entering Peru did not exceed 3,500, and between 2004 and 2006 the number of foreigners living in Peru did not exceed 5000. From 2007 the num-ber increased to over 6,000 and in 2012 that number had risen to a staggering 12,187. It´s important to mention that, even though Peru has a law stating that visitors can only stay up to a maximum of 183 days a year, after one year Gringos are considered immigrants in the Repub-lic of Peru, be it legal or illegal.

There is no denying that the number of immigrants has increased over the years and between 2007 and 2012 there were

When analysing the gender of the new-comers it´s remarkable that the popula-tion of males is by far bigger than the opposite sex. Men represent 66.8% of the immigrants while only 29,636 (33.2%) are female. Since 1994, men have rep-resented more than 60% of the immigra-tion population, but in 2012 they reached 70.9%.

In the document found on the I.N.E.I website the distribution of foreign mi-grants is also represented by age group. A chart shows that the predominant age group is the 30 to 34 year-olds represent-ing 12.2 % of all immigrants. Immigrants from 35 to 39 years of age characterise 12.1 % during the period from 1994 to 2012. This is followed by the 40 to 44 years old with 11.2%, continued by the group of 25 – 29 years old (10.7%). On the other hand, the highest percentage of immigrants are aged from 15 to 49, representing 68.2 % of all immigrants.

Looking at the gender population pyra-mid, the concentration is in the middle, being narrower at the base and that there is an increase in the first and last group. Immigrants aged under 15 count for 6.8% and are distributed almost evenly be-tween men (3.7 %) and women (3.1%). People older than 59 years of age repre-sent 10.3% and are distributed between 6.3% men and 4.0% women. Of the total number of 83,628 immigrants over 14 years of age, 33.7% are declared to be single whereas 199 people are said to be widowed, and 98 are divorced.

Between 1994 and 2012, 89,320 foreign-ers were considered to be new residents of Peru without any migration movement noticed and just before the document starts to talk about the country of origin, it mentions that 69,277 people (represent-ing 77.6%) have come to Peru by air, entering the country at Jorge Chavez Na-tional Airport. A small 8.6% entered from the south in Tacna (Santa Rosa), 2.3% from Bolivia (Desaguadero), and a 1.4% came from the north, crossing the border

from Ecuador at Aguas Verdes. A total of 3,378 (3.7%) arrived at the harbour of Callao (probably shipwrecked and unable to return home).

The authors of the report declare that there exists a strong concentration of regional immigrants referring to 31.6% of foreigners coming from Latin American countries such as Argentina, Bolivia and Chile. Americans (from the USA) with 12.4% the biggest group of newcomers, followed by the Chinese with 9.3% and Bolivians with 7.8%.

As you just have read, you will need to stay in Peru for over a year to qualify for the status of immigrant. This is also the main condition for our interviewee plus the fact that he or she should live in Áncash, and in this first edition of 2014 we conducted the interview with the man working on the still unfinished cathedral of Huaraz.

1. Who are you?

Well, my name is Fabio Venturi and I am Italian and am originally from a town near Rome.

2. How old are you and what’s your profession?

I am an architect by profession; however, when I first got to Huaraz I dedicated my time teaching Italian. I came to Huaraz thanks to a programme run by the Italian government and it was because of them I started to teach Italian. I am fifty-two years old.

3. How long have you been living in Huaraz?

I came to Huaraz for the first time in 2000; however, I visited Peru on a couple of occasions in the late 1990s

4 What brought you to Huaraz?

I was invited by the University Santiago

55,616 immigrants representing 62.3% of all registered immigrants in the analy-sis period of 1994 to 2012. To make a small comparison, in the last six years measured concern over 50.0% of the im-migrants from the period of analysis. The period between the years 2001 – 2006 represented 18,499 incoming foreign-ers representing 20.7% of all registered immigrants during the study period, while the years 1994 to 2000 represent 17.0% of total registered immigrants. The num-ber of foreign immigrants in Peru has a greater dynamism in the last years of the study. Until 2003 foreign immigrants did not exceed 20,000, this number doubles in 2007 becoming 40,446, and in 2012 the number of foreign immigrants in Peru rose to 89,320.

Dividing the entry of foreign immigrants into different periods (in years) and hav-ing the estadisticas de la emigración internaticional de peruanos e inmigración de extranjeros 1990-2012 in hand, one can see that the average annual immi-gration per period is becoming a grow-ing trend during the last three periods, except from 2001 to 2003. On average, only 2,357 people crossed the border into Peru between 2001 and 2003. Between 1994 and 2012 the annual average is 4,701 surpassing this in the last two peri-ods 2007-2009 and 2010-2012, reaching average immigration figures from 7,420 and 11,118 respectively, the latter being six times higher than the average income of foreign immigrants of the first period (1994-1997).

All statistics on Peruvian international emigration and foreign immigation by the I.N.E.I on: http://www.inei.gob.pe/media/MenuRecursivo/publicaciones_digitales/Est/Lib1102/libro.pdf

The number of immigrants in Peru is growing by the year (I.N.E.I. stats)



Expat in HuarazAntunez de Mayolo in Huaraz to teach Italian in their language centre. I could easily have gone to Cusco or Trujillo as well but I was lucky to be able to come and work in Huaraz.

5. How has your life changed over the years?

Well, in terms of my age, getting older has had an effect on my stimuli and passions [Fabio laughs]. My life has improved a lot in a professional sense and also in terms of family. I have a fam-ily here and I feel very much at home in Huaraz if I may say so.

6. What are your favourite hangout spots in Huaraz?

Well, I am a bit of a glutton and I have not stopped eating Italian food since I left Italy. When I go out for food, I always look for traditional Italian dishes. I sometimes eat a pizza at Franzua but I like Ivette´s restaurant Amma y Tequila a lot because it offers some international dishes. I don’t visit the Callejon a lot but if I do so I like to eat at Ollon de Barro in Monterrey. I am a very good cook if I may say so and I make my own pizzas and pastas at home. When I first came to Huaraz I even had my own pizzeria for a short time.

7. What is it you miss the most from back home, and how often do you go back?

This is probably the most difficult ques-tion of all. What is it that I miss most from my home country? Normally someone would be a bit nostalgic and miss certain things but honestly… I don’t know. Maybe my parents. I can’t really say I miss the food that much because as I mentioned before, I can cook really well and that makes it a lot easier in Huaraz. In the past thirteen years I have only gone back to Italy four or five times. I try to go back every two or three years and I will then stay for a couple of months. Mainly for family reasons.

8. What is it you like most about Huaraz?

I felt like a citizen as soon as I arrived in Huaraz thirteen years ago because the people of Huaraz are very welcoming. I have actually spent more time living in Huaraz, then in cities in Italy! This prob-ably explains why I have a good un-derstanding of the idiosyncrasies of the locals in Huaraz. Back in Italy I lived in the Apennines or Apennine Mountains for some time and the people there are simi-lar to those living in Andean villagers in Peru. [Fabio laughs] Maybe it is because these are people who cannot see the horizon, unlike those who live at sea-lev-el. So it is definitely the people I like the most about Huaraz, although the stun-ning panoramic views and the territory come a close second. For work purposes I have had to cross the Andes many

times and I have seen many spectacular views but again it’s the people that make the Andes special. Overall the people who live in the Andes have a different type of lifestyle compared to Costeños (coastal people) and the mountain life-style suits me better.

9. What’s your opinion of the tourist business in Huaraz?

Apart from designing some hotels in the city I am not very well informed about the tourist business in Huaraz. I designed a hotel in Huanchac which hasn’t been constructed yet and another one in Anta (near the Airport, 40km from Huaraz) for Doctor Palacios Rota. I also did the draw-ings for a project the owner of the Brasa Roja is building at the moment. I de-signed a hotel in Belen for a lady called Christina that is currently under construc-tion. I was also responsible for the ex-pansion of Hotel San Sebastian on Jirón Italia in Huaraz.

10. What sites or activities do you recommend (or not) to our readers?

Well there are a couple of places that are not well known and I would like to mention those. I have travelled over the whole of Ancash and I think there are certain spots that are not yet discovered and worth visiting. Being an architect, restorer and connoisseur of the archi-tectural beauties I would like to mention the south-eastern part of Ancash includ-ing the provinces of Recuay, Ocros and Bolognesi. In Ocros and Recuay there are many churches worth visiting and in some case these buildings are even un-der State heritage protection like those in Huasta and Acas (Acas District is one of ten districts of the province Ocros). These places are not just for religious tourists they are a must-see for all visi-tors. A small problem is that the roads to these places are not very accessible and sometimes even dangerous especially after rainfall in the early months of the

Professor Fabio Venturi enjoying his expresso while he reads an edition of last year´s newspaper

older but I feel very comfortable and still have much work to do. I am happy in my work as a professor, and as the city still welcome me and with my family, there is no reason to leave. But maybe if you interview me again in another ten years, my opinion will be different.

As we had the tape recorder still run-ning we also wanted to know how Mr. Venturi rated the Italian food in town. He said the following:

I am not sure. I would rather not answer your question because I would not like to be harsh. Being a foreigner yourself, you should know that ´reproduced´ food in any country around the world is never going to be as good as the real thing back home. The pizzas here are not to be compared with the real Italian piz-zas; however, when a pizza is made by a Frenchman… Well, I guess it´s edible [Fabio laughs].

Huaraz´ architecture is often qualified as horrible but what does Mr. Venturi think about this topic?

We all know that the city of Huaraz has suffered many problems in the past including earthquakes and landslides. Not to mention the terrorism, turmoil and disorder of 80s and 90s. These are things you cannot blame the people for. I believe that the disorder is not such a big problem now as others like to say it is. I have seen many places much worse. The problems can easily be resolved with a bit more interest and attention to traffic problems for example, and there should also be a bit more control and monitoring by the city´s officials.

Thank you for your time

Are you an expat living in Huaraz, Yun-gay, Caraz or any other part of Ancash?Contact us for an interview and find your home country flag on the front page of the next edition!


year. In the province of Recuay there is a religious trail that goes from Tapachoca. Chiquian is another interesting place with many religious buildings and tourists could easily continue hiking the Huay-huash circuit from there.

11. If you were to become the Mayor of Huaraz one day, what would you do or change?

[Fabio laughs] I would rather not stand in the mayor´s shoes because this is a bit dangerous these days (referring to the many assassinations of politicians, journalists and lawyers the past seven years in Ancash). We all know that the only thing I can gain is a place in prison. Politics are a hassle but I could give you some insights on my architectural views on the city. I have no interest in work-ing for the municipality at the moment because I am not a specialist in urban-ism although I know some things about it because it was part of my studies.

12. Are you living the Peruvian dream (explain)?

When I left Italy… If I may place a little criticism on the title of this article, I don’t agree with it because I don’t feel expatri-ated. I came here to live as a Peruvian not an Italian living in Peru. Of course, the situation in Italy was different back then and cannot be compared with the current situation. When I left Italy I had money in my bank account to invest in Peru. The end of the Fujimori era (Peru´s controversial president (1990 – 2000), who was criticized for his authoritarian way of ruling the country and was ac-cused of human rights violations) wasn’t the best time to come to Peru as the country was still recovering little by little from its instability.

13. How do you see your future in Huaraz?

My future in Huaraz will be easier as I get


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Local News

Since 2008 the number of tourists visiting the Ancash region has been steadily increasing; however, this represents a

small percentage of the actual number of people who visited Peru.

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The 16 indicators for a sustainable development of tourism. The question to aks is to how many of these indicators does Huaraz apply possitively if they even exist? Huaraz for example counts with an airport

located 40 km from the city but this airport has only one incoming daily flight.

Last year, the dean of the College of Graduates in Tourism in Ancash, Alejandro Solis Neyra gave an insight into the public investment and profitability of tourist destinations in Áncash such as: Caraz, Carhuaz, Yungay, Casma (coastal) and Chimbote (coastal) and Huaraz, as well as a profile of the typical tourist who visits Áncash.

The college is an autonomous body represented by the Professionals in Tourism of the Republic of Peru, and its goals and objectives are to realize work plans in the tourism sector, and to contribute to the development of tourism, working with the state, regional and local organizations and the community in general. Below is a summary of the presentation given last in September, followed by an analysis of some of the critical points made by Mr Solis. Additionally we will look into the profile of the Peruvian and foreign visitor of Áncash.

According to Mr. Solis, tourism in Peru should grow in a sustainable way, generating economic and social development within the country, as public resources are used to install, expand, and improve tourism services. To satisfy the visitors’ needs, and in turn improve their experience, we need to offer attractive quality facilities such as tourist information and cultural interpretation services, and safe parking and rest services.

Solis mentioned at least 16 indicators that are vital if we are to generate sustainable development in the tourism sector. The big question is: how many of these indicators apply positively to Huaraz or the department of Áncash, when only 0.46% of the 35,000,000 (162,020) Peruvians travelling nationally came to the region, and a mere 42,137 international tourists visited – this may be because even though Huaraz has access to an airport, which is located in the little village of Anta, a 40-minute drive from Huaraz, it only has one incoming flight a day, resulting in few tourists being brought in to Huaraz.

There are a number of issues affecting

tourism in our area. According to the Adjuntía para la Prevención de Conflictos Sociales and the Gobernabilidad Defensoría del Pueblo in 2013 there were 30 social conflicts such as strikes, road blocks and (violent) demonstrations, usually relating to environmental concerns. This undoubtedly has an impact on the tourist businesses in Huaraz, and the reputation of Huaraz amongst travellers.

Another critical issue is security (indicator 2 in the graph). According to recent statistics from the Tourist Police there were 41 registered cases of robbery and attacks in 2011, 90 cases in 2012 and 32 registered criminal offences in 2013. Nationwide newspaper El Comercio reported on the 18th of September 2013 that in Chimbote there were at least 71 cases of murder. Huaraz Noticias reported on the 6th of August of the case of John Davies and his wife from the USA, who was robbed when a fake taxi driver stationed close to the Gran Chavín hotel drove off with the Davies’ two big backpacks filled with belongings. Last year The Huaraz Telegraph reported on two robberies: one near the Cross of Rataquenua and another one between the Hot Springs of Monterrey at the site of Willcahuain.

It´s very likely that the actual number is much higher than the statistics indicate. In many cases, robberies are not reported to the police because either tourists are unsure what to do when they have something stolen, or feel that they have been ripped off, or they are on a tight schedule and are aware that stolen items will probably never be found or returned so don’t bother to report it. If, however, they do wish to make a formal complaint there is a 24-hour Tourist Protection Service hotline, Servicio de Protecion al Turista, available where staff is trained to handle complaints in English. If an immediate solution is not possible, INDECOPI claims to follow up disputes by filing a formal complaint with the relevant authorities.

A positive development is that police in popular tourist spots like, Cusco, Arequipa and Huaraz have become more diligent when investigating

reported thefts, after a spate of false claims by dishonest tourists. This means that genuine victims may be grilled more severely than expected, and the police may even come and search the complainant’s hotel, hostel or tour agency for the “stolen” items. If a claim is genuine though then stick to your guns and insist that you get a written report. Huaraz´ tourist police can be found on the Plaza de Armas, Av. Luzuriaga 724 near the Municipality and i-Perú, telephone: 42-1351. The Tourist Police are there to help the tourists and can be recognized by their green uniform, unfortunately their level of spoken English is poor to none existent, so be prepared for this.

Scamming is another area of concern in the region. For instance the sale of treks, tours or hikes offered by touts hanging around at bus stations, or popular tourist places like the Plaza de Armas. Last year, The Huaraz Telegraph reported on some local hostel owners who decided to write a letter to the management of the Cruz del Sur terminal demanding something be done about a scam that

was happening there. The hostels´ representatives claimed that tourists were being collected by local drivers who offered to take them to the hostel where they had reserved rooms. The drivers then took their passengers to entirely different hotels so they could claim the commission awarded by the proprietors for bringing new customers. The complaining hostel owners called it an “unfair form of competition”.

In November there was a small victory for the hostels in Huaraz as, in an unprecedented move the new administrator Mr. Berrospi Roggero, forced all the touts from the Cruz del Sur terminal. This resulted in Mr. Roggero receiving threats, being intimidated and even being offered bribes to change his mind. To his credit he has remained strong in his position and now people can once again travel to Huaraz using Cruz del Sur without fear of falling into the hands of the captadores.

Unfortunately, although the problem with the Cruz del Sur terminal has been

These percentages are a direct comparison of the numbers visiting Ancash, and those entering Peru, indicating that

local tourism is not increasing at the same rate as national tourism.

From 2009 it would appear that the Ancash Region is becoming more popular with national tourists. When compared to the numbers visiting Cusco or Arequipa, however, the Ancash

figures are left wanting.

Graph 1

Graph 2 Graph 3 Graph 4

Important indicators for a sustainable development of tourism in Huaraz



Tourist Informationresolved the issues are still prevalent at other company terminals.

If we are to successfully develop and sustain a thriving and profitable tourist sector in Áncash we need to look at the facilities on offer, not just the number of them, but the quality also after all Huaraz doesn’t have a mall, cinema or amusement park.

According to the Ministry of Exterior Commerce and Tourism (MINCETUR), the department of Áncash offers a total of 15,761 beds across 667 lodging facilities including: resorts, Eco lodges, hotels, youth hostels. Of these lodgings only 213 are classified and operated in accordance with the norms set by the Ministry of Exterior Commerce and Tourism. And out of the 15,000+ beds 6,683 comply with the norms set by MINCETUR in terms of authorization and operation performance, inspection and monitoring and functioning.

At the moment the tourism sector in Áncash comprises of 70 registered (but not necessarily active) organisations including: one peasant community, four adventure sport, four artisan, four (ONLY FOUR?) tourism agencies, three management committees – including carnival and religious events, and a 13 registered guiding organisations. Also one cannot look past the many broken streets in Huaraz and the unpaved roads towards the Glacier of Pastoruri or the entrance of the National Park above Yungay.

According to Smith (1993); Perry (1997); McBoyle (2009) and Jones (2009) reviews of tourism websites and promotional materials have shown that most operators offer limited climate information to potential travelers; usually only providing average monthly temperatures. Furthermore, quoting Szalai and Ratz (2006): “Not only is climate information highly desired by end-users, but similarly current weather conditions and short-range forecasts are the most important factor in ‘last minute’ domestic leisure tourism.”

Last year The Huaraz Telegraph published an investigation of 14 agencies in Huaraz which all forecasted different weather predictions. Although weather is very hard to predict in the Andes and knowing Huaraz has merely a dry season of four months, answers varied from unstable, plenty of rain to perfect weather conditions. Susanne Becken (2010) while investigation the importance of climate and weather for tourism she states: ¨both weather and climate are extremely important for tourism, and it is often the perception of climate that may be more important than the reality. Tourists make decisions based on what they believe the climatic conditions of a destination are.

As a result tourists will learn over time and adjust their decision making (Ehmer & Heymann, 2008). This is not only relevant with respects to perceived temperature and precipitation (e.g. “too hot”, Gossling & Hall, 2006) but also in relation to perceived safety.

Continue reading on page 15

Places of interest around Huaraz

Here we present a guide to the villages around Huaraz in the Callejon de Huaylas and Conchucos. Most of them are easily accessible by microbus (colectivo). Ask your hostel owner or landlord where to catch the colectivos in Huaraz.

Callejon de Conchucos

The Callejon de Conchucos, which runs almost parallel to the Callejon de Huaylas to the east of the Cordillera Blanca, is less accessible and, therefore, less frequented by visitors, but it is equally beautiful. The Callejon de Conchucos is known mostly for the old Chavín de Huántar Ceremonial Complex. It offers a variety of off-the-beaten-path villages complemented by local festivals, typical music and customs. Take enough cash because most villages in the Callejon de Conchucos have no ATMs.

San Marcos (2960m)

San Marcos is located nine kilometres north of Chavín de Huántar, in the Mosna valley. Here you can expect basic tourist services as well as spectacular mountain-biking options. The Mosna Valley is also known as Magnolia Paradise because of the many flowers that enrich the area. At the nearby Antamina mine you could find fossilised remains of dinosaurs.

Huari (3150m)

The province capital is located 152km from Huaraz; about four hours by public transport. It is famous for its gastronomy and the María Jiray Waterfall. Seven kilometres from Huari is Lake Purhuay which also offers camping, trekking and mountain-biking facilities. Also worth visiting is the archaeological centre of Marca Jirca.

Chacas (3359m)

Less-known hikes to Huari or Yanama are accessible from this little village (Yanama is also the start of the Santa Cruz trek). Chacas offers tourists an excellent opportunity to experience the Andean lifestyle when visiting the main plaza. Flanked by the colourful windows and doors of the white painted houses; many with complex wooden balconies. There is a direct bus route to Huaraz with Transporte Renzo.

San Luis (3131m)

Capital city of the province of Carlos Fermín Fitzcarrald, it will take no less than six hours to reach this township from Cátac. Famous for the archaeological site of Cashajirca located three kilometres north of San Luis, and the beautiful Sanctuary of Pomallucay, this church offers its home to the image of Lord Justice Pomallucay.

Other villages in the Callejon de Conchucos worth considering visiting are Pomabamba, Piscobamba and Llamellín.

Callejon de Huaylas

The Callejon de Huaylas stretches for 150km in the Anca sh Region of Peru with the Santa River running along the valley floor. The Huaylas Valley is more crowded and most conventional tours run over paved roads.

Recuay (3422m)

If you have ever wondered how Huaraz looked before the earthquake of 1970, then visit Recuay. The structure of the narrow streets and adobe houses (houses built from sod) give a good impression. Just before arriving in Requay at the Bedoya Bridge, on the right hand side, starts the 183km road towards Olleros and Huaripampa, which is also the beginning of the Llama Trek towards Chavín de Huántar.

Carhuaz (2645m)

Famous for its local ice-cream and home to a lively Sunday market were countryside inhabitants sell various handicrafts, fruits and typical products from the region such as Manjar Blanco (blancmange).

Marcará (2950m)

This village mainly serves as a drive-through between Huaraz and Yungay. It is famous for its baños termales (hot springs) of Chancos. Weekdays are a lot quieter; at the weekends locals from the surrounding villages descend and the pools tend to become overcrowded. Expect the temperature of the pools to be

around 70°C.

Jangas (2825m)

Here lies the parish of Don Bosco, an Italian Roman Catholic priest who in the 1800s established schools and carpentry and woodcarving workshops for orphans and street children. Jangas is a charming village not far from Tarica, and Anta airport.

Tarica (3600m)

This drive-through town is part of the conventional tour towards the Llanganuco Lakes and is best known for its many roadside shops selling handicrafts and potteries.

Yungay (2500m)

This is where tourists get the best views of the Huascarán, which is the highest mountain in Peru. Nowadays the old city of Yungay is a national cemetery because of the earthquake of 1970 that hit central Peru – killing 25,000 people in the city alone. The new town was rebuilt 1.5km north of the destroyed city. Yungay has the best access to the Llanganuco Lakes, Laguna 69 and Yanama where you could start the Santa Cruz trek.

Caraz (2250m)

Caraz is 32km from Paron Lake, the largest lake in the Cordillera Blanca, and is surrounded by 15 snowy peaks. Canyon del Pato – a rock formation formed by the movement of the Cordillera Blanca – is also in this region.

Beautiful wooden balconies in the town of Chacas in the Callejon de Conchucos


We´re very proud to announce we´re the best restaurant on Tripadvisor in Huaraz!



Advertorial/Publirreportaje

We would kindly like to invite you to participate in our Trece Búhos ABC... Have you already visited us? We´re to be found at Parque de Ginebra near the Plaza de Armas

E - E-dating and events

Need a nice place to meet up with your internet date? Well come to the Trece Búhos, where you cans sit in the comfortable lounge and enjoy the company and the music. If you can sing or play a musical instrument and want to entertain the guests then give us 24 hours’ notice and the stage can be yours! Free beers

if you increase trade!!

D - Dancing on the bar

When the shutters are down, and the early birds have gone home, the dancing begins! If you are in Huaraz you have to come and experience the joy of dancing on the bar. There are some free drinks for people who keep the fun going while

demonstrating some Latin dance moves to the patrons!

A - Ales

Our ale is top-fermented; the yeast floats on the surface of the liquid during the fermentation process, rather than sinking to the bottom as in a lager. Our ales contain hops, which help to preserve the beer and impart a bitter herbal flavour that balances the sweetness of the malt. Lucho has three kinds of ales on offer: Blondie, as the name suggest, has a nice blond colour; Red has a sweeter taste; and Black, the most popular of the three. All our ales are available in two types of bottles, a small one for the passionate drinker, and a big bottle for the thirsty

drinker.

F - Free Wifi

Of course! While enjoying the good music, the atmosphere and the comfortable surroundings why don’t you catch up on the latest online edition of The Huaraz Telegraph using 13 Búhos’ free high speed internet connection. Free Wifi is always handy and there is nothing better than sitting at the bar, enjoying a beer and reading

the news on your phone or IPad.

B - Buhos

Did you know that Búhos means owls in Spanish? According to legend apart from the owner and his wife only a very select group of people know the the real story of why 13 Búhos is called Trece Búhos. There are some that believe that if you drink 13 bottles of Lucho beers the truth of the name will be revealed to you. Mission impossible or do you think you can handle this

challenge?

C - Coca

Did you know that 13 Búhos has two types of beers based on the sacred leaf from the Andes? You can also find other drinks that have a ćoca´ flavoured taste like the Coca Sour, which contains Pisco with macerated coca leaves, lime juice, gum syrup, egg white and ice for example. If you prefer a non-alcoholic beverage, we

also serve Coca Cola!

The three ales for sale at 13 Búhos The man it´s all about, Lucho Buendia

The golden combination of beers and búhos

Bring your guitar and a stage will be provided

Only possible at 13 Búhos, an enthusiastic crowd dancing on top of Lucho´s bar

Welcome to our ABC! In this first edition of The Huaraz Telegraph we would like you to show a little insight into what our business is about. We will start with the first six letters of the alphabet and next month we shall continue

until you have done all 26! Hope to see you soon at Trece Búhos!



Local News

Other indicators mentioned by Solis were productive activities and initiatives (indicator nr. 10), management, quality and availability of water, solid waste and wastewater (indicator 16), the capacity of support centres (indicator nr. 15), trade and related activities (indicator nr. 12), tourist satisfaction (indicator nr. 7), capacity of the circuits and transportation offered (indicator nr. 13) and for example tourism income and expenditure (indicator nr. 6).

Now let us have a look at the demographic and socioeconomic profile of the national visitors of Áncash. According to the World Tourism Organization – UNWTO a tourist is described as a person who travels to a different place than his residence for a minimum of one night and no more than twelve consecutive months and whose main purpose is travelling… usually done for reasons of rest and relaxation or diversion.

Prom Perú interviewed 3,332 people over four time periods: the first in April 2012, the second in July 2012, the third in October 2012 and the last one took place in January 2013. The target group included men and women from 18 to 64 years of age who were residents of Lima, Arequipa, Trujillo, Chiclayo and Huancayo. Of the Peruvian visitors 62% were male, and 38% were female, there was an average age of 38, with 41% being single and 59% in a relationship. As far as travel motivation or reason, 37% interviewees wanted to relax or rest, 31% were on a family holiday, 16% declared they wanted to see new places.

Almost half (46%) of those surveyed said that it was the experiences of family and friends that awoke the interest in travelling. Programs about travelling on the television accounted for 22%, and publicity also contributed. The average stay is six nights spending in the region of S/.400.

Only 19% of the visitors looked up information before heading to Áncash, the remainder asked taxi drivers, local residents, the staff at their hotel or hostel, or family or friends about the destination. Only 1% of the surveyed used i-Perú, which is disappointing because i-Perú is one of the few (governmental) places where tourists can obtain unbiased information.

There is not a great deal of information available on the international traveller, so for the purposes of lending balance to the article The Huaraz Telegraph will refer back to the statistics published in 2009 from the data collected from 169 international tourists. As can be seen in the graphs, 70% were male and 30% of the foreign visitors to Áncash were female.

A large number of the interviewees

(69%) were between 15 and 34 years of age, which makes sense since the vast majority of them came to the region for adventure tourism like trekking, hiking, mountaineering or mountain biking. The highest number of visitors came from the USA followed by those from France. Interestingly there is no mention of Israeli visitors which is strange as Huaraz used to be a very popular destination for them, especially with the purpose of hiking the Cordillera Huayhuash.

When we look at the formation of travel groups, it´s interesting to see that 41% traveled alone, 28% traveled with their partner, and 27% made the journey with friends or relatives. Foreign visitors stayed an average of 11 nights, spending more money in Áncash compared with

Continuation of page 13

Questionable stats offered by Prom Perú. The average stay in Ancash, is according to the stats 11 nights, whereas the average stay in Peru is little over a month and their average spending expenditure is calculated on US $ 1,725 meaning tourists would spend US $ 575 p.p. in Ancash

According to the stats above tourists visiting Ancash are relativily young people with 80% of them being under 45 years of age. Most tourists are from the US and France

other places in Peru. This was probably much to do with mountaineering; which is an expensive hobby.

This is a small sample; too small to be able to draw any conclusions from. Nonetheless, they give some insight into the profile of the gringo viajero. The Huaraz Telegraph will inform the reader as soon as new information becomes available on this topic, as well as on the National Congress of Professionals in Tourism to be held in Huaraz from the first to the third of May 2014.

Sources: Prom Perú, Govierno Central – MINCETUR and COLITUR

Text: Rex Broekman

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Todo emprendedor sabe que el cliente es la razón de ser de su empresa. Con esa premisa, decimos que los auspiciadores son la razón de ser de The Huaraz Telegraph. Las empresas que depositaron su confianza en nosotros

saben que nuestro mensuario ofrece un portal importante al mercado turístico. Si usted es dueño de una panadería, restaurante, lavandería,

peluquería, empresa de transporte, sauna u otro tipo de negocio debería considerar trabajar con The Huaraz Telegraph. Sobre todo porque la compra de un espacio no es un gasto, sino es una inversión con la meta de vender

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edición. Para mayor información, contáctenos en [email protected] - o llámenos para programar una cita con

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Interview

The Huaraz Telegraph was not the only one interested in Álvaro Perez Ramirez The Huaraz Telegraph

Last year The Huaraz Telegraph published the story of Fernando Padrós from Cataluña who was cycling across the country raising funds and food for orphans. In February of this year we had the pleasure of meeting another intrepid cyclist Álvaro Perez Ramirez, a veterinarian from Quebec, Canada, who is travelling the world trying to raise awareness of the need for animal protection. His journey began in 2008 in San Diego, California and will end in about three years’ time in Namibia. Álvaro, an American-Colombian is working his way south via Mexico, Nicaragua, Guatemala, Honduras, El Salvador, Belize, Costa Rica, Panama, Colombia, Venezuela, Ecuador and Peru. We first met Álvaro on a Sunday morning where he was attending the FestiDeporte, a local government initiative promoting sports, games and health issues. During our initial short chat Álvaro told me that Peru was the only place where he had been robbed. It seemed he’d already had some interesting experiences in Peru, and we wanted to know more about then so we arranged an interview with him for that same afternoon.

Could you explain what motivates you to cycle such a long distance?

I am trying to raise awareness about the protection of animals. If asked what I’d do if I found a dog and a human being hurt, I would always try to rescue the animal first. Because for us there are medics, firemen, police etc., but for the animals there is almost nobody. My passion for working with and protecting animals started when I was young. I remember my mum killing a rooster, and afterwards I didn’t talk to her for eight days. The main thing is this: animals are mostly invisible to people. It upsets me when people keep exotic animals as pets, bringing toucans and parakeets from the jungle and locking them up in cages is wrong. Cats and dogs can be tamed and kept

as pets, but not animals from the jungle! So I am cycling across the world sharing the ideas of Mahatma Gandhi hoping to create a revolution for the benefit of animals.

This is not your first time in Peru right?

That´s right, I had some bad luck when I was here previously. I met a female professor from the Instituto Pedagogico Publico de Uchiza in the San Martín region. She stole my passport, photos, camera and money, and I had to return to Colombia to have my passport reissued. So basically I have done this trip twice now! I arrived in Huaraz for the second time last week and I am due to leave tomorrow.

How do you finance your trip?

I have been very lucky, local people usually help me. Most of the time journalists provide me with a free room, or some free food. Unfortunately it is rare for local officials to offer assistance as aren’t very supportive of my cause, they are not interested in fauna, and the protection of animals, they do invite me to tell my story, but they soon come to the conclusion that there is no money

in it for them, and they may have to pay for animal shelters etc, something which they are not prepared to do.

What happens when you arrive in a town?

I always try to make contact with the mayor, or some important person of the municipality. Most people know me because I have been in the news which makes it easier. Then I give a speech at a dinner for example, and hopefully get the message across. It may be that only a handful of the audience hear what I have to say, but even if ten people out of fifty people listen to my message, I am happy. My story gathers momentum with every day that passes; slowly spreading the word. I heard of a bank manager who had nothing to do with animals, didn’t even have pets, but after hearing my story he adopted two little street dogs, and is taking care of them. It is hearing stories like that that makes this trip worthwhile. I will die happy if I think people will change their attitude towards animals, although this might take another 500 years.

Have you enjoyed your time in Huaraz?

(After a deep sigh…) Bien! Huaraz is a tiny Cusco, I like the weather, there is good food here and good people. I am staying in Hotel La Joya, courtesy of the hotel owner, and I get free breakfast, lunch and dinner at the Encuentro Restaurant, in the Parque del Periodista. Tomorrow I will meet with the mayor to discuss opening a dog shelter in the urban part of the city. Unfortunately I don’t think I will be successful as it costs money, and government officials have other priorities. It seems that the people work hard here; however, they have no understanding of tourism. Tourism could generate high incomes, like in other places around the world, but here I have the impression that no one cares.

Tell us what you did at the FestiDeporte

Today I took my bike onto the main street, trying to motivate kids to get off their computers and get cycling in the fresh air. I agreed to participate in the hope that it gets the dog shelter approved.

You are the proud owner of a Guinness Record right?

Yes, I beat my previous record by cycling 25 hours and 14 minutes non-stop in and around the city of Juanjuí, which is the capital of the province Mariscal Cáceres. I did that to get a bit of publicity for the city, and myself because being in the media opens doors that would otherwise remain closed to people like me, this in turn increases the attention on my cause. But I have to come up with something new… something to get the attention of the press again. I am not sure what, but I am sure I will come up with something during my lonely rides through the middle of nowhere. When I am cycling it´s like watching a film; so many images and moments pass by. Cycling on your own isn’t easy; it should not be underestimated. Sometimes I’m on the road for hours without seeing any other cars, it´s tough. But if you have ideals, then you have to make sacrifices.

From what you have seen, how are animals treated in this area?

(After another deep sigh…) Animals suffer a lot here. The United States has animal protection laws, as does Europe and even Colombia, that are enforced, but in Peru even though there is a law in place to protect the animals, those who are supposed to enforce it are susceptible to bribery. While staying in Huaraz I have seen something that beats everything. There is someone selling birds on the main street, a couple of blocks from the Plaza de Armas. Among them I noticed two wild birds that are, as far as I know, threatened with extinction. So I went to the nearest policeman and told him about it. He asked me for S/.100 before he would file the complaint! I found this shocking. It is his duty to help me (and the birds), but instead he is asking for money? Not all police are corrupt, but those who are need to change their attitude.

Finally, could you tell us where your trip will end?

My trip ends when I arrive in Namibia, where I will join the Greenpeace volunteers in the fight for the protection of elephants. There are many rich people from the US, the Netherlands or Sweden, including the King of Spain, who go hunting in Africa. So I am going to hunt them. I am now 53 years old and hopefully God will allow me to keep cycling until I reach Namibia. Once there I intend to learn how to treat the wildlife using my background as a veterinarian. There is much to do there, I am sure my help will be welcome. I hope to die there, and if I do I shall die happy.

Nearly two months after The Huaraz Telegraph interviewed Álvaro, he announced that he was giving up trying to open an animal rescue centre, and even though people had been kind enough to provide food and accommodation, the authorities were not cooperating in any way and he had to leave because he lacked funding Álvaro Perez Ramirez with his bike, near the Plaza de Armas in Huaraz

Quote of the month

¨Look, I am a passenger and people

could say: ´Álvaro Perez Ramirez has

been here´, but that is not important to me,

my message of animal protection is the real thing people should

remember.¨


Animal loving cyclist: “On the main street in Huaraz they sell birds that are close to extinction.”



Interview

We have the best organic coffee, expresso and capuchino of Huaraz.

Come and enjoy our fresh natural juices, milkshakes, hamburgers and sandwiches

while using our free wifi on Julian de Morales 828 (Near Nova Plaza)

CALL FOR DELIVERY AND GET YOUR CHICKEN OR PASTA DELIVERED AT THE HOSTEL OR HOTEL YOU´RE STAYING AT

to stay any longer. A sad end in the end in Huaraz for the animal lover and protector from the United States.

The Huaraz Telegraph has had the pleasure of meeting a number of cyclists journeying through Peru, among them James Hall and his wife who cycled 12,000km and were running out of brake pads until James´ sister sent them some from home. Also on the road were Harriet and Neill from the UK. These die-hard adventurers spent 19 months of cycling and hiking in South America from 2009 to 2011, and last year the couple was in Huaraz during the dry season from May to October, and were not only cycling in the area they were also writing a guide to the Cordillera Blanca. They are back this year to do some cycling and complete their unique guidebook that will be designed for trekkers and cyclists. We met with the lovely British couple and asked them about cycling in the Andes and writing a book about it.

This is what they wanted to share among the readers:

People back home are always worried that we will get mugged or robbed when we´re away, but by far the most dangerous thing on South American soil is the traffic. Not only are the roads in really bad condition the drivers aren’t terribly safe. It didn’t take long for us to use the smaller roads, after spending time cycling on the larger main roads, simply for safety reasons. Unfortunately there isn’t much information available on the smaller, dirt roads, unlike Argentina that has good maps, Peru has so many roads, finding an accurate map is almost impossible. There is also a distinct lack of practical information about specific unpaved routes. So we started taking notes of all the routes and roads we had taken, and launched a website – pikesonbikes.com and andesbybike.com – featuring valuable information on passes, unmapped routes and stats.

We are doing all our writing for Trailblazer Guide Books, which publishes a select list of practical guidebooks written by travellers for travellers. There are many guidebooks available that cover the Cordilleras but this one is focuses specifically on this region. Over the past few years we have made various attempts to reach the Cordillera Blanca but have always run out of time, on this occasion, however, we had plenty of time so we also did a lot of trekking. I would like to stress though that although it´s nice to travel you do need something to occupying yourself with while on your journey; writing the guidebook keeps our minds fresh.

In Britain very little is known about this area (Cordillera Negra and Blanca), which is surprising because the scenery is fantastic and just as good as in other places we have visited, and we have been all over the world. If you go to Stanfords in Covent Garden, London, which is probably the biggest travel shop in the world, you´ll find loads of maps, guides and books covering a multitude of countries, but publications on South America are limited especially on the Huaraz area. So it´s up to us to

determine what treks and routes are included in the book because the editors back home have never been here and don’t know what´s really important.

When asked about the tourist industry in Huaraz they said: “Like in most countries there are good and bad aspects of tourism. We have seen guides asking local communities to burn the rubbish otherwise they would throw it in the rivers, especially in the Cordillera Huayhuash. The toilets on the Santa Cruz trek are just useless. There are toilets in the whole of Peru which work fine, even in the smaller villages where there is trekking, but the ones on the Santa Cruz trek just don’t do their job... But the most striking thing we have seen is the vast amount of toilet paper. It´s everywhere!

If you were trekking in in Europe and you see a group trekking with their guide, you expect the guides to follow the national park rules, right? If they didn’t, you´d expect them to get into trouble, or lose their accreditation or something like that. Here though you see agencies and guides doing all sorts of things they shouldn’t be doing, but no one seems to hold them accountable. We have seen things on the Huayhuash circuit and our question was where do we go? What can we do? We know who they are but we don’t know who to complain to or report them to. Also villagers should care more about their living environment and try to keep it clean.

The Huashuash is stunning but there is so much human waste and toilet paper – we have seen people defecating by their tents even though there were toilet facilities available nearby. And this is not the fault of the agencies; it´s definitely the responsibility (or lack thereof) of trekkers because most of the day you come across clean functioning toilets in good condition.

As is evident from their website – pikesonbikes.com – this UK couple is not only adventurous, they are also very organized, and keep stats and accomplishments up-to-date. On their website you will find information on the furthest distance travelled, (152km – Near Porvenir to Argentinian San Sebastian, Tierra del Fuego), their lowest speed (1.9kph – pushing over Shingo La, Zanskar, India), and some fun facts including the longest distance they were followed by a dog (30km – Near Puyuhuapi, Carretera Austral, Chile). On the subject of dogs Neill informed us during the interview that traffic is far more dangerous than all the loose dogs that run around, even though he became bitten by a dog two days later while cycling in the Cordillera Negra and, after many hours of filling forms in and a 48 hour delay, was given a course of rabies injections at the public hospital.

Neill and Harriet are also accomplished photographers and have taken some amazing pictures of landscapes, portraits and street art. For the keen cyclists among you, their website is a must for all things bike related. We´ll keep the reader informed as soon as the guidebook comes out.



Tourist Information

The Cordillera Blanca offers countless opportunities for trekkers and climbers, as well as for people not so keen on physical activities. The wonderful lakes and glaciers of the White Range are easily accessible from the town of Huaraz. Here is a quick guide to the best activities around Huaraz.

DAY TRIPS

Daily sightseeing tours

These tours are great for those of you who are not so active, or who need to acclimatise before heading out into the mountains.

LLANGANUCO – This tour visits the villages in the Huaylas Valley (Carhuaz, Yungay, Caraz), and the beautiful Llanganuco Lake. Be aware that you will only spend from 40 minutes to one hour at the lake. Daily departures.

CHAVIN DE HUANTAR – This tour takes you to Chavin, a village situated on the other side of the Cordillera Blanca in the Conchucos Valley. Here you can visit the Chavin de Huantar UNESCO World Heritage site, featuring some of the oldest and most significant pre-Inca ruins in Peru. You also make a stop at the lovely Lake Querococha along the way. Departs every day except Mondays when the ruins are closed for maintenance.

PASTORURI – This tour visits the southern section of the Cordillera Blanca, with the amazing Pastoruri glacier, which is still well worth a visit despite having lost 40% of its ice in recent years. You can’t help but be impressed by the huge ice cliffs and the Puya Raimondii – a rare 12m high bromeliad plant which you visit on the way to the glacier. Make sure you become acclimatised before going on this tour as the glacier is at 5000m. Departs every day.

Day hikes

These hikes are perfect for those needing to acclimatise before a trek, or for those with limited time.

LAKE CHURUP, 4485m – This is one of the closest and easily accessible hiking routes from Huaraz, leading to a very beautiful turquoise/emerald green coloured glacial lake. It can be quite challenging as there are some steep sections, and there is a rock wall before the lake which you need to scramble up to (there are wires to help you up). It can be tricky in the rainy season when the rock is wet and incredibly slippery, so be careful. It is recommended not to hike alone; for those of you with limited hiking experience it is advisable to go with a guide, as he will carry a rope that will help you go up and down the rock wall safely. For experienced hikers a guide is not necessary as the path is easy to find. The trailhead at Llupa can be easily reached by public transport.

LAKE 69, 4550m – This is undoubtedly one of the most beautiful hikes in the Cordillera Blanca. Located in the northern

section of the national park. From Huaraz it’s roughly a three hour drive to the trailhead (Cebollapampa), the journey is incredibly scenic with great views of Mount Huascaran and the Llanganuco Lakes. The hike is of moderate difficulty, but can be challenging for those with limited acclimatisation. You can reach the trailhead by public transport, but finding transport to get back can prove very difficult, so it is recommended to hire private transport from Huaraz. For those with hiking experience a guide is not necessary as the path is clear. The lake is stunning for its pristine blue colour, and its fantastic location at the foot of the mighty Mount Chacraraju. You are rewarded with awesome views of the Cordillera Blanca’s highest summits during the hike.

LAKE LLACA, 4470m – This is one of the closest lakes to Huaraz. It takes two hours by private transport to reach the trailhead at the Llaca refuge. From there it is a short hike to reach the lake. The lake is not as stunning as others in the region, but it is a good option for those wishing to acclimatise with limited effort and time. It is possible to do ice climbing here, but the ice walls tend to be full of sand.

LAKE AGUAC, 4580m – This is another lake located close to Huaraz. The trail starts at the ruins of Wilcahuain and is fairly easy to find. It is quite a long hike and the altitude can make it challenging. The lake doesn’t have a special colour, but there are some great mountain views.

TREKKING

Easy to moderate treks

SANTA CRUZ TREK (four days) – Undoubtedly the Cordillera Blanca’s most famous and popular trek. It is suitable for novice hikers, but good acclimatisation is essential before starting the trek. This trek deserves its fame; offering varied scenery and endless views of majestic snow-capped peaks, jewelled glacial lakes and gorgeous Andean valleys. For those with ample experience of trekking at high altitude, this trek is doable without a guide, but be sure to follow the national park rules especially to carry all your rubbish out of the park. Ask in town for directions before heading out, as although easy to follow, the path is not signposted. Departures for this trek in an all-inclusive organised group run daily in high season, but standards vary from one company to the next. The trek can be completed in three or four days, but if you do it in three days you will miss the side trip to the Alpamayo base camp and Lake Arhuaycocha, which is undoubtedly one of the trek’s highlights.

OLLEROS – CHAVIN TREK also known as LLAMA TREK (three days) – A less popular trek, it mainly crosses vast expanses of puna, following ancient pre-Inca and Inca paths that lead to the village of Chavin. There are no glacial lakes and few snow-capped mountain views during this trek, but you will come across isolated communities.

Moderate to challenging treks

QUILCAYHUANCA – COJUP TREK (three days) – A stunning trek which goes through some less-visited, but none the less stunning valleys of the Cordillera Blanca. It is a much tougher trek than the Santa Cruz for two reasons. First there are no donkeys to carry all the equipment, so you will have to carry a backpack weighing around 15kg (the weight depends on the number of porters accompanying the group). Second, because the pass is much higher. At 5050m the path leading up to it is very steep, rocky and generally not well trodden. The way down from the pass is even steeper and more challenging. This trek is perfect for fit, experienced hikers who wish to experience peace and tranquillity. Good acclimatisation is essential before starting the trek.

AKILPO – ISHINCA TREK (three days) – This trek is similar in difficulty to the Quilcayhuanca trek, although donkeys can be used (they do not go over the pass but go back and around). The pass is very high at 5050m and the path leading up to it is steep and not well marked. The trek starts at the pre-Inca ruins of Honcopampa, and then goes up the Akilpo Valley through beautiful forests of local quenual trees, before reaching the superb Lake Akilpo just before the pass. Then you go down to the Ishinca Valley. This trek is perfect for fit, experienced hikers looking for an alternative to the Santa Cruz trek. Good acclimatisation is essential before starting the trek.

ISHINCA – COJUP TREK (three days) – This trek is vastly different to all the others, because it includes a glacier traverse requiring the use of equipment such as crampons and ropes. Bringing you much closer to the giant icy peaks of the Cordillera Blanca, the views are simply spectacular. This trek is only suitable for very fit and experienced hikers, but does not require any mountaineering technical knowledge. Thorough acclimatisation is essential as you will go well over 5000m. It is possible to include a summit climb to Mount Ishinca (5530m) during this trek.

Challenging treks

HUAYHUASH TREK (eight or ten days) – The Huayhuash full circuit trek

is considered as one of the world’s most beautiful. It is a trek that requires good physical condition and acclimatisation, because it crosses many high passes (eight passes minimum ranging from 4650m to 5050m) and the campsites are all above 4100m. Trekkers are rewarded with endless breath-taking views of stunning glacial lakes, pristine valleys and icy peaks, which can be extremely close. There are many alternatives possible for the itinerary, but the most common group departures are for the eight day and ten day treks. Those with more time and wishing to explore less visited valleys of the range can do the trek in as many as 15 days, and take the more challenging high trail. Those with limited time can do the four day Mini Huayhuash trek, which visits one of the range’s most beautiful locations: the Lake Jahuacocha area.

CEDROS – ALPAMAYO TREK (seven or ten days) – This trek is less popular than the Huayhuash trek, and also very different, although not less beautiful. It is probably a bit more challenging too, even though the passes are not as high (eight passes on the full circuit ranging from 4400m to 4850m), but the trails leading up to the passes are much steeper. You are unlikely to meet many trekkers and will come across several isolated Quechua communities who still follow a traditional lifestyle.

The highlight of this trek is undoubtedly the view from Jancarurish of Mount Alpamayo, known as the World’s most Beautiful Mountain thanks to its near perfect pyramid of ice. You will not see as many glacial lakes and close-up views of glaciers on this trek as on the Huayhuash trek, but the landscape is much more varied and the isolation a real bonus. The trek can be done in seven days starting in Hualcayan or Huancarhuas and finishing in Pomabamba, allowing one worthwhile rest day in Jancarurish, but take into account that you need a full day to travel back to Huaraz from Pomabamba (night buses are not recommended due to frequent robberies on this route). For those with more time, you can add extra days by joining on to the Santa Cruz trek at the end, making it a ten or 11 day itinerary if finishing in Cashapampa, or a nine day itinerary if finishing in Vaqueria. The trek can be done in reverse, but it is tougher.

All you should know about day trips, trekking, mountaineering and bouldering


WARNING FOR TOURISTS:

AVOID THE RATAQUENUA CROSS AND DON´T HIKE FROM THE RUINS OF WILCAHUAIN TOWARDS THE BAÑOS TERMALES IN MONTERREY




Tourist InformationMOUNTAINEERING

Keep in mind that glacier conditions change from year to year, so what was an easy walk across a glacier one year may be a difficult passage through crevasses the following year. So make sure to check the latest conditions in town before setting out on any of these expeditions.

Non-technical climbs

These expeditions are suitable for people with no previous mountaineering experience; however, even though they are often referred to as trekking peaks these expeditions, although not technical, are harder than a trek, due to the fact that you wake up at midnight, walk in the dark and use heavy equipment such as mountain boots and crampons. If you are fit and have experience of trekking at high altitude and want to experience being on a glacier, then one of these peaks is for you.

MOUNT PISCO, 5752m (three days) – This expedition offers some of the best summit views of any peak of the Cordillera Blanca, and for that reason is very popular. Crossing the moraine takes two to three hours and is considered the most challenging part of the expedition. It is possible to include a hike to Lake 69 on the last day.

MOUNT VALLUNARAJU, 5686m (two days) – This expedition can be quite challenging, because no donkeys can be used, you have to carry a 15kg backpack up a steep path to moraine camp on day one. It is very popular due to its proximity to Huaraz making it a short expedition.

MOUNT ISHINCA, 5530m (three days) – This peak is mostly used as an acclimatisation peak for those wanting to climb the higher and more technical Mount Tocllaraju, which is situated in the same valley.

MOUNT TUCO, 5479m (two days) – A very seldom climbed peak, although it offers a relatively short and easy ascent, as well as the chance to see the rare Puya Raimondii plant.

Intermediate level climbs

These expeditions are suitable for people with some mountaineering experience. It is recommended to climb a 5000m+ peak before starting any of these expeditions in order not to suffer from altitude sickness.

MOUNT TOCLLARAJU, 6034m (four days) – This expedition is perfect for those who have climbed a non-technical summit previously and want to take the next step in the mountaineering world by trying something more technical. It includes the ascent of two 60m high ice walls requiring the use of ice axes. The relatively short summit ascent makes it a perfect first 6000m+ peak.

MOUNT CHOPICALQUI, 6354m (four days) – This expedition has the same technical difficulty level as Mount Tocllaraju, but it is a more difficult climb due to the much longer summit route and higher altitude. It includes the ascent of two 60m high ice walls requiring the use

of ice axes. It offers one of the Cordillera Blanca’s most beautiful ascent routes along its southwest ridge.

MOUNT HUASCARAN SOUTH, 6768m (seven days) – Although not very difficult from a technical point a view, this is an extremely tough expedition suitable only for mountaineers with plenty of experience, because of the difficult climbing conditions (crevasses, risk of avalanche, extreme cold and altitude). Do not underestimate the difficulty of this climb.

Technical climbs

These expeditions are suitable for people with plenty of technical mountaineering experience. It is recommended to climb a 5000m+ peak before starting any of these expeditions in order not to suffer from

altitude sickness.

MOUNT ALPAMAYO, 5947m (seven days) – This is a serious and technically challenging expedition requiring the ascent of a 470m high ice wall. Excellent crampon and ice axe techniques are essential. Please note that the ascent from base camp to high camp is particularly challenging, given that you need to climb up a 60m high ice wall (at a 55 degree incline), carrying your backpack. Known as the World’s Most Beautiful Mountain, each year Alpamayo attracts many mountaineers from the world over.

MOUNT ARTESONRAJU, 6025m (five days) – This is a mentally, physically and technically demanding climb requiring the ascent of a 600m high ice wall, at an incline of 50 degrees. Excellent crampon

and ice axe techniques are essential, as well as an excellent physical condition. Two ascent routes are possible, either from Lake Paron or from the Santa Cruz Valley.

ROCK CLIMBING & BOULDERING

Rock climbing and bouldering spots are plentiful around Huaraz. All types of climbing, at all levels, with many different types of rock, fantastic views, and no chance to get bored! Check with local climbers or travel agencies specialising in rock climbing for a detailed list of the necessary equipment and help with logistics.

CHANCOS – Located 32km northeast of Huaraz in the foothills of the Cordillera Blanca, Chancos is the perfect place for beginners and climbers with limited experience. After climbing, a good option is to visit the Chancos Hot Springs which are situated an easy ten-minute walk away.

LOS OLIVOS – This is the closest climbing spot to Huaraz, situated only three kilometres from the town centre. It features a large number of equipped sport- climbing routes in five different sectors, as well as several boulders, suitable for climbers with some experience. From here you get an amazing panoramic view of the town of Huaraz and the Cordillera Blanca.

ANTACOCHA – Situated 35km south of Huaraz in the Cordillera Negra it is one of the few places in the area offering long routes with a variety of difficulty levels, suitable for climbers with limited or a lot of experience alike. The 180m high wall towers high above Lake Antacocha. This place offers a magnificent vantage point of the Cordillera Blanca, especially at sunset.

HATUN MACHAY – Located 104km south of Huaraz at 4300m high in the Cordillera Negra, this stunning rock forest is a paradise for rock climbing and bouldering with some 250 equipped sport-climbing routes and countless boulders, suitable for all levels. It is also a great place for hiking, as it offers some amazing viewpoints with views of the Cordillera Blanca, Huayhuash and the Pacific Ocean, as well as many caves with ancient rock paintings and carvings dating back to 10,000BC.

THE SPHINX – Also known as The Colossus of the Andes it is situated 90km northeast of Huaraz in the Paron Valley and is considered to be one of the most amazing granite rock walls in South America, offering a variety of traditional climbing routes with superb views of the snow-capped summits of the Cordillera Blanca surrounding it. Given its extreme altitude (5325m), it is essential to be well acclimatised before setting off on this climb and to have sufficient experience in traditional climbing. It takes an average of three days to complete the climb.

Information and photo ´tip of the month´ provided by David Lazo and Marie Timmermans from QUECHUANDES Travel & Adventure Agency

LAKE MULLACALake Mullaca, also known as Carhuac by the locals, is a high glacial lake

situated at 4600m in the central part of the Cordillera Blanca at the foot of Mount Vallunaraju. The hike to the lake is a superb but very tough day hike, as it involves

more than 20km of at times very steep hiking. There are two ways to reach the lake. You can either start at the ruins of Wilcahuain, which can be reached by

combi in 20 minutes from Huaraz, or from just beyond the small village of Chawin, which can be reached by taxi in approximately one hour. The best option is to

start in Chawin at around 3600m and finish in Wilcahuain at 3400m, a 20km hike in total. In the first part of the hike there is no real trail, just use the mountain Vallunaraju as a guideline, but you should head uphill and slightly to the right towards the trail that comes from Wilcahuain and not towards the valley floor.

The views are stupendous. In the first part of the hike you get a perfect mountain panorama with Mount Huascaran, Hualcan, Copa and of course Vallunaraju. After

reaching the Wilcahuain trail you go down a cliff and follow a water canal that picturesquely winds its way through quisuar and quenual forests with many wild

flowers and waterfalls all around. Then you cross a dense quenual woodland after which you quite suddenly find yourself on steep, barren terrain leading all the way to the lake. Your efforts will be amply rewarded as the lake is a magnificent vivid blue coulour, not dissimilar to that of the more famous Lake 69 and the proximity to the glowing ice of Mount Vallunaraju’s glacier is breath-taking. There is also a second nearby lake on the left. To get back follow the main trail all the way to Wilcahuain, heading south the whole time, past beautiful Lake Radian (3928m)

and vast open grassy areas. This hike should be attempted by fit, experienced and well acclimatised hikers only, given the lack of trail, remoteness, steepness of the terrain, huge elevation gain (some 1000m!) and length (some 10 hours of hiking in total!). Alternatively you can do the hike in two days camping at Lake Radian

halfway.

TIP OF THE MONTH



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SPECIAL *PI* SUDOKU

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Telegraph are extremely intelligent, we

have a different type of Sudoku this time. The

rules are simple: Each row, column, and jigsaw region

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region will contain two 1s, two 3s,

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