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Tothenumerousexcellentprofessionalseedcompanies,whosecatalogsandseedspermitustolearnaboutandto
growextraordinaryvegetables.
Andtoseed-savingindividualsandorganizations,whoaremaintainingessentialbiodiversity—soimportanttokeepingthe“business”ofvegetablesandvegetable-
growinginterestingandinspiring.
CONTENTS
RECIPESBYCHAPTERFOREWORD
BULBS
GARLIC
LEEKS
ONIONS
RAMPS
SCALLIONS
SHALLOTS
SPRINGONIONS
THEBASICS
THERECIPES
ROOTS
BEETS
CARROTS
CELERYROOT
JICAMA
PARSNIPS
RADISHES
RUTABAGA
SALSIFY
TURNIPS
THEBASICS
THERECIPES
TUBERS
JERUSALEMARTICHOKES
POTATOES
SWEETPOTATOES
THEBASICS
THERECIPES
GREENS
BEETGREENS
BOKCHOY
BROCCOLIRABE
CHARD
COLLARDS
KALE
MUSTARDGREENS
TURNIPGREENS
THEBASICS
THERECIPES
STALKS&STEMS
ASPARAGUS
CELERY
FENNEL
KOHLRABI
RHUBARB
THEBASICS
THERECIPES
PODS
EDAMAME
ENGLISHPEAS
FAVABEANS
GREENBEANS
OKRA
SHELLBEANS
SHELLBEANS
SNAPPEAS
SNOWPEAS
THEBASICS
THERECIPES
SHOOTS
FIDDLEHEADFERNS
MICROGREENS
PEASHOOTS
SPROUTS
THEBASICS
THERECIPES
LEAVES
CABBAGES
CHICORIES
ENDIVES
LETTUCES
SPINACH
SPRINGANDWILDGREENS
THEBASICS
THERECIPES
FLOWERS&BUDS
ARTICHOKES
BROCCOLI
BRUSSELSSPROUTS
CAULIFLOWER
CHIVEBLOSSOMS
EDIBLEFLOWERS
SQUASHBLOSSOMS
THEBASICS
THERECIPES
FRUITS
AVOCADOS
CUCUMBERS
EGGPLANTS
PEPPERSANDCHILES
SUMMERSQUASHES
TOMATILLOS
TOMATOES
WINTERSQUASHES
THEBASICS
THERECIPES
KERNELS
CORN
THEBASICS
THERECIPES
PHOTOCREDITSACKNOWLEDGMENTSABOUTTHEAUTHOR
INDEX
RECIPESBYCHAPTER
BULBSFour-OnionSoupwithGinger
SpaghettiwithMussels,Lemon,andShallots
RoastChickenwithOnions,Shallots,Garlic,andScapes
IsraeliCouscouswithParsleyandShallots
Beer-BatteredOnionRings
Normandy-StyleChickenandLeekswithCrèmeFraîche
PastaCarbonarawithLeeksandLemon
RoastedSalmonandSpringOnions
PickledRamps
GrilledRampswithRomesco
SteamedBlackBasswithGingerandScallions
RiceNoodleswithScallionsandHerbs
Garlic-ScapeToasts
Green-GarlicButter
Herb-and-ScallionBreadPudding
GazpachoAjoBlanco
CreamyGarlic,Parsley,andFetaDressing
ROOTSRoastedBeetandPotatoBorscht
SesameCarrotSlaw
BeetSaladwithGingerDressing
BeetRisottowithBeetGreens
SpicyCarrotSoup
CeleryRootandPotatoRösti
RoastedCarrotsandQuinoawithMisoDressing
Jicama-CitrusSalad
RainbowCarrotsandChard
LacqueredShortRibswithCeleryRootPurée
LeekandParsnipSoup
SalsifyGratin
RadishTartine
RoastedRadisheswithCapersandAnchovies
MoroccanVegetableSoup
Rutabaga-AppleMash
TurnipSaladwithBaconVinaigrette
BrisketwithParsnipsandCarrots
RoastedRutabagaandBrusselsSprouts
CarrotFries
SpicedParsnipCupcakeswithCreamCheeseFrosting
TUBERSPotatoSalad,ThreeWays
PotatoGnocchi
Mrs.Kostyra’sMashedPotatoes
Salt-BakedPotatoes,Shallots,andChestnuts
LambStewwithJerusalemArtichokes
Tartiflette
Twice-CookedPotatoandLeekCasserole
YukonGoldandSweetPotatoesAnna
SalmonChowder
RoastedPorkChopswithSweetPotatoesandApples
PotatoYeastedRolls,TwoWays
GREENSSesameGreens
SwissChard,Cabbage,andBrusselsSproutsSalad
FriedRicewithCollardGreens
StuffedCollardGreens
Mustard-GreensPesto
Mustard-GreensCaesarSalad
SkilletPizzawithGreensandEggplant
CaldoVerde
KaleChipswithBalsamicGlaze
Kale-RicottaDip
SwissChardLasagna
BokChoySaladwithCashews
BabyBokChoywithChile,Garlic,andGinger
BroccoliRabeandHamCroqueMonsieurs
KaleandAvocadoSaladwithDates
Chard-TomatoSauté
OrecchiettewithBroccoliRabeandTomatoes
STALKS&STEMSSteamedAsparagus,ThreeWays
Egg,Asparagus,andMushroomStir-Fry
AsparagusandPotatoFlatbread
RhubarbChutneywithPorkRoast
Asparagus,Artichoke,andFarroSalad
FennelandSmokedSalmonSalad
ClamPanRoastwithFennelandSausage
Celery,Cilantro,andAlmondSalad
BraisedCelery
PODSBlanchedSugarSnapPeas,ThreeWays
RisieBisi
Green-PeaBurgerswithHarissaMayo
CranberryBeanSaladwithDelicataSquashandBroccoliRabe
SkilletEdamame,Corn,andTomatoeswithBasilOil
RoastedWaxBeanswithPeanutsandCilantro
GreenBean,ShellBean,andSweetOnionFattoush
WhiteBeanswithDandelionGreensandCrostini
GrilledFavaBeans
CreamyFavaBeans
BeefandSnap-PeaStir-Fry
GreenBeanandWatercressSalad
TempuraGreenBeans
Quick-PickledPods
SHOOTSSesameSalmonwithShiitakeMushroomsandShoots
FiddleheadandPotatoHashwithEggs
KaleandLentilBowlwithSprouts
SautéedSnowPeasandPeaShoots
Avocado-and-SproutClubSandwiches
PadThai
LEAVESWatercressandAsparagusPizza
EndiveandFennelSalad
ShreddedNapaCabbageSalad
PorkScaloppinewithRadicchio
SpinachandFontinaStrata
GardenGreenswithChoppedEggs
SpinachandGarlicSoup
EscaroleandBeanSoup
FriséeandRoastedPearSalad
BabyGreenswithPineNutsandPancetta
ArugulaandStoneFruitSaladwithBalsamicLambChops
FigandArugulaCrostini
CharredRomaineSalad
Free-FormLasagnawithEdibleWeeds
BraisedRedCabbage
CreamedGreenCabbage
FriedChickenwithPuntarelleSalad
MiniAsianMeatballsinLettuceCups
FLOWERS&BUDSNasturtiumSaladwithArtichokesandAsparagus
BucatiniwithCauliflower,Capers,andLemon
Oven-FriedBabyArtichokes
SmokyBrusselsSproutsGratin
BroiledStripedBasswithCauliflowerandCapers
RoastedCauliflowerwithHerbSauce
CrispedBrusselsSproutLeaves
Squash-BlossomFrittata
GoatCheesewithEdibleFlowersandArugula
Broccoli,Shrimp,andShiitakeStir-Fry
BraisedChickenandBrusselsSprouts
CapelliniwithChiveBlossoms
RoastedBroccoliwithGratedManchego
FRUITSPastawithMarinatedHeirloomTomatoes
BlisteredEggplantwithTomatoes,Olives,andFeta
MisoEggplant
BreadedEggplantwithArugulaandParmesan
TomatoandMangoSalad
Zucchini-ScallionFritters
PastawithZucchini,Mint,andPecorino
ZucchiniQuickBread
SkilletSteakPeperonata
PickledJalapeñosandCucumbers
BlisteredPadrónPepperswithSeaSalt
WholeBakedTroutwithCherryTomatoesandPotatoes
Zucchini“Pasta”Primavera
RoastedBellPeppers
TomatilloandChipotleSalsa
ChilesRellenos
Cucumber,Mango,andShrimpEscabèche
ChilledMelon,Cucumber,andMintSoup
StuffedTomatoeswithMozzarella
SalmonandAvocadoTartines
PistachioGuacamole
Roasted-TomatoHandPies
ButternutSquashandTaleggioPizza
RoastedAcornSquash,ThreeWays
ButternutSquashandKaleHash
KERNELSGrilledCorn,withThreeToppings
CornandScallionChilaquiles
CornSoup
HatchChileCornPudding
CornmealShortcakeswithCornIceCreamandBlueberryCompote
FOREWORD
WhenIthinkaboutvegetables,inthecontextofa“subjectmatter,”sayforabooksuchasthis,IthinkoftheprovocativebookbyLynneTruss:Eats,Shoots&Leaves.Thatbook,onthesubjectofpunctuationandgrammar,hastheeffectofmakingonewanttorearrangethetitletoEatsShoots&Leaves,whichofcoursehasanentirelydifferentmeaning.Italsobringstomindafewcategoriesofvegetables.Roots,Shoots&Leaves,infact,couldhavebeenthetitleofthisbook.
Thisbookisaboutallkindsofvegetables,anditisfullofallkindsofrecipeswe’vedevelopedtopreparethosevegetablesinthemostsavoryanddelightfulways.EveryoneinthekitchensofMarthaStewartLivingcontributedtothecontent,andtheexpertiseofoureditorsisevidentonpageafterpage—inthechoosingofthetypesofvegetables,indeterminingtheappropriatefreshnessofthosedeliciousgiftsfromgardenandfarm,andintheservingandenjoyingofevensomeveryusualvarieties.
Therearealmostinfinitewaystoenjoyvegetables,andwehavedividedtheedibleplantworldintobigchapterstolureyouintotryingandexperimentinginmanydifferentwayswithbulbs,roots,tubers,leaves,shoots,kernels,pods,stalksandstems,greens,flowersandbuds,andevenfruits.Whyfruits?Tomatoes,eggplants,peppers,cucumbers,avocados,zucchini,andothersquashesareall,botanically,fruits.Thescientificreasonfordividinginthiswayisnotverycomplicated,anditisfascinatingtothinkabouteach“vegetable”andlearnthecorrecttaxonomy.
Children,asmuchasadults,arefascinatedwithsuchdistinctions,anditistruethatcooksandourculinarytraditionshavecloudedthecategories.Inanyevent,therecipesinthisbooktreatbothvegetablesandfruitsin
anyevent,therecipesinthisbooktreatbothvegetablesandfruitsindelicious,savory,memorableways.Enjoyasmanyoftheserecipesasyoucan.
GARLIC
LEEKS
ONIONS
RAMPS
SCALLIONS
SHALLOTS
SPRINGONIONS
BULBS
As Julia Child wrote, “It’s hard to imagine a civilizationwithoutonions.”Openanycookbookandyou’llseeshe’sright.Alliums (the botanical genus includes edible bulbs such asshallots, garlic, onions, and ramps, plus those with edibleleaves like leeks, scallions, and chives) seasonmany favoritedishes.Andthankstotheproliferationoffarmers’markets,wenow have access to a wider range of these aromatic gems.What’smore, inmany places, early varieties start appearingweeks after the thaw. Clearly, these bulbs are worthcelebrating.But,becausetheyareubiquitous,longlasting,andfairlycheap,wehavetheluxuryoftakingthemforgranted.
Like other underground vegetables, including roots andtubers, bulbs of the allium family stockpile the energy andnutrients absorbed from the sun and earth. But bulbs storethem primarily as sugars, not carbohydrates, which mayexplainwhytheygotosuchlengthstodefendtheirtreasures.Inside each cell, thanks to one of nature’s most brilliantdefense systems, sulfur compounds are kept segregated fromthe enzymes that trigger them, divided by thinmembranes;when the cells are broken—when you slice or bite into anonion, for example—the chemicals combine, creating thevolatilegasesthatcanmakeyoucry.
Sulfur and sugar: the harsh married to the sweet. It is precisely thisintriguing balance that makes bulbs so delicious—and essential. Thesealliumslendaframeworktootherflavors,bringingstructureandflavortodishes—andperhapsevencivilizations—theworldover.
THEBASICS
SEASONALITYBecauseonionsandgarlicareavailableyear-round,it’seasytothinktheydon’thaveaseason.Butspringiswhentheypushtheirtendergreenshootsupfromtheearthandbeginforminganewgenerationofbulbsbelow.FromMarchthroughMay,seekouttenderyoungonions,garlic,andtheirkinatfarmers’markets—allaremildandexcellenteatenraw.
Sweetonions,suchasWallaWalla,andstorageonionsarelefttocontinuegrowingundergroundthroughthesummerandintofall;youcanalsofindexcellentexamplesoftheseatfarmers’markets.Forgarlictoproducetheclovesweallknowandlove,theflowerbuds,orscapes,mustbeharvestedinspring.Greengarlic,whichcouldbemistakenforanovergrownscallion,hasamildflavorthat’sbrighterandfreshertastingthanregularcloves.Andluckyforus,thesespringtimedelicaciesarereadilyavailableatfarmers’marketsandspecialtygrocersduringthespringandearlysummer.
Ramps,alsoknownaswildleeks,areforagedfromshaded,woodyareasupanddowntheEastCoast,fromGeorgiatoCanada,andareheraldedfortheirgarlickyflavor.Theirmanyfanseagerlyawaittheirfirstappearanceatfarmers’markets,whereyoucanfindthemfromMarchthroughearlyJune(thoughyoucanalsocultivateyourown).
BUYINGCommononionsandgarlicare“cured”—harvestedwhenfullymature,thendriedforstorage.Hardinessiskeywhenselectingthesevegetables,soatthemarket,givethema(verygentle)squeeze.Also,avoidbruisesandmold,andshundampness—theskinsshouldbepaperyanddry.Selectyellowonionsforlongbraisesandhigh-heatcooking;theyhavethestrongest,richestflavor,andwillholdupnomatterwhatthey’repairedwith.Whiteonionsareslightlymilder,andcommoninMexicanandSouthAmericandishes.Tamerstillareredonions,withatouchofsweetness,makingthemthebestchoiceforsalads,sandwiches,andotherdisheswherethey’llbeeatenraw.Amongthefirstvegetablestoappearatfarmers’marketsafterthe
beeatenraw.Amongthefirstvegetablestoappearatfarmers’marketsafterthesnowmelts,young,green-leafedbulbs—includingscallionsandramps,aswellasspringonionsandgarlicscapes—areawelcomesight;lookforbuncheswhosegreensarefirmandstiff,theirbulbsbrightandglossy.
NOTABLEVARIETIESOnions:White,yellow,andredaregrocery-storestaples,butit’sworthseekingoutVidaliaandWallaWallaonions,thesweetestonesofall(especiallywhengrowninsulfur-freesoil,wheretheyabsorbnoneofthesharpnesscommontoothervarieties).Springonions,plantedinthefallandharvestedbeforethebulbshavehadachancetogrow(inearlyspring,hencetheirname),canbefoundatfarmstandsstartinginMarch;theyaremilderandsweeterthanstorageonionswhencooked,withanotablespicinessthatmakesthemwonderfulforgrillingandpickling.Theyresemblescallionsbuthavealargerbulb.
Scallions:Lookforpurple-bulbvarietiesinthespring;theyhavethesameflavoraswhiteones,butmakeaprettygarnish.
Garlic:Thegarlicsoldingrocerystoresisintendedforlongstorageratherthanflavor,makingitworththetriptothefarmers’markettofindothervarietiesthatareusuallyonlyavailablefromsmallgrowers.Theselocalheadsshouldhavelargerclovesandamorepronouncedflavor.Theyaresometimessoldstillonthestalks,andsomehavepurplestripesorareddishhue.
STORINGDark,cool,anddryishowcuredbulbslikeit,sostoreonions,shallots,andgarliconanout-of-thewayshelforinacabinet.Lightcausesthemtosprout,generatinggreentendrilswithinthatdrawnutrientsandflavorfromthebulb;moisturecancausemoldtoformbeneaththeskin(whichcanbewipedoff)orbetweenthelayersofthebulb(whereitcan’tbe).Leeks,springonions,ramps,andscallions,meanwhile,shouldberefrigerated,looselywrappedinaplasticbag,andusedwithinafewdays.
PREPPINGLearningtocutonionsquicklyandskillfullyisoneofthesmartestthingsnovice
cookscandotomakekitchenlifemoreagreeable.Removethepaperyskin(it’scalledthetunic!),andunlessyouwantrings,slicetheonioninhalffromtoptoroot.Layeachhalfflatontheboardandsliceintothebulbfirstlengthwise(leavingrootintact),thencrosswise.Ifyouplantoserveonionsraw—inasalad,say,oronasandwich—youmaywanttofirstsoakthepiecesforfivetotenminutesinanice-waterbathtoremovethesulfurcompoundsgeneratedoncutsurfaces,orgivethemabriefsoakinvinegar.Forgarlic,removethepapersheathbygentlycrushingeachclovewiththesideofaknifeblade,thenpulloffthepaper;removeanygreen“germ”fromthecloves,astheseareverybitter.
Leeks,ramps,scallions,andgreengarlicoftenneedtohavetheirtunicspeeledaway,too—andasthesearefragileandclingy,theymayrequirescrapingwiththeedgeofaparingknife.Thencutawaythescruffyrootsandsliceifneeded,separatingthestronger-flavoredwhitepartsfromthegreen,ifthereciperequires(mostdo).Leeksholdontoalotofgritintheirmanythicklayers;cutthemasdirectedinarecipe,thensubmergeinabowlofcoldwaterandswishthoroughly.Liftouttheleeks,andrepeatuntilyoudon’tseeanymoregritinthewater.Drainanddryifsautéingorroasting.
COOKINGWithahighproportionofsugars,onionstakewelltobeingcaramelized.Indeed,youcangrillorroastthemuntilnearlyblackbeforetheirflavorisruined.Buttheyareequallyhappycookedlowandslow—gentlysautéedinbutteroroliveoil,oroven-braisedinaskillet.Thesearealsothebestmethodsforcookingdelicate-flavoredleeks,ramps,andscallions,whichalltakewelltoaquickpassthroughahotflame,givingthemadramaticcharredflavorthatpairswellwithmeat.Rampsareexcellentmixedintopestosandcompoundbutters;sautéedandtossedwithspaghettiorservedoversoftpolenta;ortreatedlikeherbsandtuckedundertheskinofchickenbeforeroasting.
Aswithonions,garlic’smultiplepersonalitiesarehighlightedbydifferentcookingtechniques:Minceorsmashrawclovestoaddanassertivebitetosaladdressings,pestos,salsasandrelishes,andno-cookpastasauces;sautéthemuntilpalegoldeninbutteroroilforaflavorthat’smildandmellow;roastawholeheadintheovenuntilitturnsmahoganybrownforclovesthatarebutterysoft,rich,sweet,andearthy—andthenspreadthepasteonbread,tossitwithpasta,orincorporateitintodipsandsauces.
HOWTOROAST(Forallbulbs)Peelonionsandshallots;quarteronions,leavingwedgesintact,andseparateshallots(halvelargerones,ifdesired).Trimscallions,leeks,springonions,greengarlic,andramps;leavewholeorcutcrosswiseinto2-inchpieces(washleekswell).Placeonarimmedbakingsheet,drizzlewitholiveoil,andseasonwithsaltandpepper.Strewonionsandshallotswithfreshthymeorrosemary,ifdesired.Spreadinanevenlayerandroastat400°F,tossingonceortwice,untiltenderandbrownedinspots,15to20minutes.Drizzlewithvinegar(balsamic,cider,sherry,orwhitewine),andsprinklewithherbs.
(Forgarliccloves)Separategarliccloves,andplaceonarimmedbakingsheet.Drizzlewitholiveoil,seasonwithsaltandpepper,andtosstocoat.Roastat400°Funtilskinsaredeepgoldenbrownandfleshisverytender,20to30minutes.Whencoolenoughtohandle,slipoutofskins,anduseindressingsorsauces,orspreadoncrostini.
(Forwholegarlic)Sliceofftopquarterofgarlichead,exposingasmanyclovesaspossible,withaserratedknife.Drizzlewitholiveoilandseasonwithsaltandpepper;topwithfreshthyme,ifdesired.Wrapinparchment,thenfoil,sealingtoformapacket.Roastat400°Funtilclovesaregoldenandverysoft,50to60minutes.Whencoolenoughtohandle,squeezeheadfrombottomtopushoutcloves.Stirintomashedpotatoes,whiskintovinaigrettes,orspreadonsandwiches.
HOWTOGRILL(Foronions,scallions,leeks,springonions,greengarlic,ramps)Peelonion,cutallthewaythroughrootendinto8wedges(keepwedgesintact),orsliceinto½-inch-thickrounds.Trimscallions,springonions,greengarlic,andramps.Trimleeks,halvelengthwise,andwashwell.Tosswitholiveoil,andseasonwithsaltandpepper.Cookonamedium-hotgrill,turningasneeded,untiltenderandlightlycharredinspots,10to20minutes.Sprinklewithfreshlemonjuiceorred-wineorsherryvinegar,drizzlewithmoreoil,andtopwithchoppedfreshherbs(parsley,mint,orbasil).
(Forshallots)Peelandhalveorquartershallots,leavingwedgesintact.Threadontoskewers;drizzlewitholiveoil,andseasonwithsaltandpepper.Cookoveramedium-hotgrill,turningasneeded,untiltenderandlightlycharredinspots,45to50minutes.Drizzlewithred-wineorsherryvinegarwhilestillwarm.
withred-wineorsherryvinegarwhilestillwarm.
HOWTOBRAISE(Forallbulbs)Peelonionsandshallotsandtrimroots,leavingbulbsintact.Halveorquarteronions,leavingwedgesintact;halveshallots.Trimscallions,springonions,greengarlic,andramps;leavewholeorcuttofitintoskillet.Trimleeks,halvelengthwise,andwashwell.Heatbutteroroliveoilinalargecast-iron(orotherovenproof)skilletovermedium.Addbulbs,seasonwithsaltandpepper,andsautéuntilgoldenbrown,2to5minutesoneachside.Addenoughbraisingliquid(chickenorvegetablebrothorwater,oracombination)tocoverandafewsprigsofthyme,ifdesired.Coverandcookina350°Fovenuntiltender,30to50minutes.Toglazethebulbs,removefoil,raiseovenheatto450°F,andcontinuecookinguntilliquidreduces,thickens,andcoatsvegetables,10to15minutesmore.
FLAVORPAIRINGSOnionsareusedinsuchawidevarietyofdishes,itwouldbealmostquickertolistthethingstheydon’tgowiththanthosetheydo.Garlic,too,lendscharactertoanastonishingrangeofpreparations.Shallotscanbesubstitutedforeitherinapinch;theirmild,sweetflavormakesthemaclassicinsaladdressings.Scallionsandespeciallyrampsintroducespicy,fresh,green,almostherbalnotes.
GARLIC:chicken,lamb,rosemary,tomato,lemon,feta,ginger,soysauce,mushroomsONIONS:chicken,meat,cheese,beer,wine,mustard,vinegar,ginger,thyme,nuts,greensRAMPS:asparagus,eggs,mint,morels,vinegar,lentils,potatoes,fish,ParmesanSCALLIONS:ginger,garlic,rice,eggs,bittergreens,butter,parsley,rice,tomatoesSHALLOTS:butter,tarragon,mustard,garlic,saladgreens,vinegar,fish,driedfruitSWEETONIONS:goatcheese,bluecheese,basil,cayenne,nutmeg,ham
THERECIPES
Four-OnionSoupwithGinger
SpaghettiwithMussels,Lemon,andShallots
RoastChickenwithOnions,Shallots,Garlic,andScapes
IsraeliCouscouswithParsleyandShallots
Beer-BatteredOnionRings
Normandy-StyleChickenandLeekswithCrèmeFraîche
PastaCarbonarawithLeeksandLemon
RoastedSalmonandSpringOnions
PickledRamps
GrilledRampswithRomesco
SteamedBlackBasswithGingerandScallions
RiceNoodleswithScallionsandHerbs
Garlic-ScapeToasts
Green-GarlicButter
Herb-and-ScallionBreadPudding
GazpachoAjoBlanco
CreamyGarlic,Parsley,andFetaDressing
2
1½11½
22
½
½
Four-OnionSoupwithGingerCaramelizedonionsarearemarkableflavorbooster.Slicedthintoexposealltheir
starches,onionsslowlysoften,turnadeepgoldenbrown,andbecomewonderfullysweet.Theyare,ofcourse,attheheartofFrenchonionsoup.Inthisupdateonthetraditionalrecipe,weroundouttheflavorswiththreetypesofonion—red,white,andyellow—and
combinethemwithanequalamountofshallotsandaniceamountoffreshginger.
SERVES6
tablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil,plusmore
poundseachwhite,yellow,andredonions,thinlyslicedlengthwisepiece(3inches)freshginger,peeledandfinelyjuliennedpoundsshallots,thinlysliced
tablespoonsverythinlyslicedfreshsageleaves,pluswholeleavesforgarnishquartslow-sodiumchickenbroth
Coarsesaltandfreshlygroundpepper
baguette,halvedlengthwiseandsliced
cupfinelygratedGruyèrecheese
1.Inalargehigh-sidedskillet,heatoilovermedium.Addonionsandginger;cook,stirringoccasionally,untilsoftandtranslucent,45minutes.Addshallotsandsage.Continuecooking,stirringoccasionallyasonionsreduce,untiltheyareverysoftandcaramelized,about1hour.(Addafewtablespoonsbrothorwatertoskilletifonionsstarttostick.)2.Preheatovento350°F.Pourbrothintoskillet,andbringtoaboil.Reduceheattoasimmer,andcook15minutesmore,stirringoccasionally.Seasonwithsaltandpepper.
3.Meanwhile,arrangebreadonabakingsheet;brushwithoil,seasonwithsaltandpepper,andsprinklewithcheese.Toastinovenuntilcheeseismeltedandgolden,about8minutes.
4.Whiletoastisinoven,heat2inchesoilinamediumsaucepanuntilshimmering.Frysageleavesuntiljustcrisp,15to20seconds;useaslotted
spoonorwireskimmertotransfertopapertowelstodrain.
5.Dividesoupamongsixbowls;garnishwithsageleaves,andservewithcheesetoasts.
TIPMakeabigbatchofcaramelizedonions,andstoretheminanairtightcontainerintherefrigeratoruptofivedays.Useasafillingforomelets,atoppingforburgersorsteaks,orasandwichspread.Theyarealsodelicioustossedwithpasta.
1
¼
4
1
¼¾
2
½
SpaghettiwithMussels,Lemon,andShallots
Shallotslackthebiteofonions,andofferamilder,sweeterflavorthat’sjustrightforsteamingmussels—atleastaccordingtoclassicFrenchpreparations.Inthatspirit,wecreatedabrothofshallots,red-pepperflakes,parsleystems,andwhitewine.Youcouldservethemusselswithrusticbread,butweusethemtomakea“sauce”forspaghetti.
SERVES6
poundspaghetti
Coarsesalt
cupplus2tablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil
largeshallots,diced
teaspoonred-pepperflakes
cupfinelychoppedfreshflat-leafparsleystems,plus1cupcoarselychoppedleavescupdrywhitewine,suchasSauvignonBlanc
poundsmussels,scrubbedandbeardsremoved
lemon,zestedandjuiced
1.Cookspaghettiinapotofsaltedboilingwateruntilaldente,accordingtopackageinstructions.Reserve1½cupscookingwater;drainpasta.
2.Meanwhile,inanotherpot,heat¼cupoilovermediumhigh.Sautéshallots,red-pepperflakes,andparsleystemsuntiltender,stirringoccasionally,about5minutes.Addwine;cookuntilliquidisreducedbyone-third,stirringfrequently,about2minutes.Addmussels,coverwithatight-fittinglid,andsteamuntiltheyopen,5to6minutes(discardanyunopenedmussels).
3.Addpastatopot,tossinguntilwellcombined.Addreservedpastawater,andcontinuetotossandcookovermedium-highheatuntilsauce
hasreducedandcoatspasta.Removefromheat.Stirinparsleyleavesandlemonzestandjuice,thenremainingoil,andserveimmediately.
TIPTocleanmussels,rinsethemundercoldrunningwaterandscrubtheshellswithastiffspongeorvegetablebrush.Discardanythatarechippedoropen.Next,gripthetoughfibers(orbeard)extendingfromtheshellandtugtoremove.Rinseagainincoldwater,drain,andchilluntilreadytouse.
1
1
1
10
6
2
2
RoastChickenwithOnions,Shallots,Garlic,andScapes
Roastingchickenonabedofonionsachievestwothings:theonionsimpartflavortothechicken,andtheybecomewonderfullydarkened.We’veincludedabunchofdifferentalliumsinthisotherwisestraightforwardrecipe,forahostofflavors:slicedredonion,wholeshallots,freshchives,andgarlicintwoforms(clovesandscapes).Allcanbe
enjoyedalongsidethechicken,withcrustybread.
SERVES4TO6
wholechicken(4to4½pounds)
Coarsesaltandfreshlygroundpepper
bunchfreshoregano
redonion,thinlysliced
garliccloves,unpeeled
shallots,peeled
bunchesfreshchives
bunchesgarlicscapes
1.Preheatovento425°F.Seasonchickenalloverwithsaltandpepper.Tuckoreganointocavity.Scatteronion,garlic,shallots,chives,andscapesaroundaroastingpan.Placechicken,breastsideup,inpan,andtuckwingsunder.Tielegstogetherwithkitchentwine.
2.Roastchickenuntiljuicesrunclearandaninstant-readthermometerinsertedintothethickestpartofathigh(donottouchbone)reaches165°F,about1hour15minutes.Letrestfor10minutesbeforecarvingandserving.
TIPTrussingachickenencourageseven
cooking.Totrussachicken,placeitwithtailendclosesttoyouandtuckthewingtipsunder.Centeralongpieceoftwine,andrunitaroundtheneck;thenpassitoverthedrumsticks,andtuckitundertheirjoints.Crossingitovertheirjoints,tightentobringlegstogetherandplumpupthebreast.Wraponeendallthewayaroundthetailend,andtieintoaknot.
1
1
8
½1
IsraeliCouscouswithParsleyandShallotsWhenyouwantamoresubtle(lesssweet)flavorthancaramelizedonions,trysautéingthinlyslicedshallotsovermedium-highheat;they’llsoftenandbrownafterjustafewminutes.Here,theshallotsaretossedwithcouscous,lemonjuice,andparsleytomakea
brightsidedishforchicken,pork,orfish,oranicepackablesaladforlunch.
SERVES4
cupIsraeli(pearl)couscous
Coarsesaltandfreshlygroundpepper
tablespoonextra-virginoliveoil
shallots,halvedandthinlysliced
cuppackedfreshflat-leafparsleyleaves,coarselychoppedtablespoonfreshlemonjuice
1.Cookcouscousinapotofboilingsaltedwateruntilaldente,accordingtopackageinstructions.Drainandtransfertoabowl.
2.Meanwhile,heatoilinamediumskilletovermediumhigh.Addshallots;seasonwithsaltandpepper.Cook,stirringfrequently,untilbrowned,7to8minutes.Addtobowlwithcouscous.Addparsleyandlemonjuice,andtosstocombine.Seasonwithsaltandpepper,andserve.
2
1
¼
½
1
Beer-BatteredOnionRingsThinlylayered,slightlyspicyyellowonionsareusedtomakethelight,crispringsatBalthazarinNewYorkCity.(Thisrecipeisadaptedfromtherestaurant’scookbook,
anditisMartha’shands-downfavorite.)Beerflavorsthebatterandaddsbody,thankstothebubbles.Bakingpowder,aleaveningagent,helpstoenlargethesebubblesasthe
batterfries.
SERVES6
cupsall-purposeflour
teaspooncoarsesalt,plusmoreforsprinkling
teaspoonfreshlygroundwhitepepper
teaspoonbakingpowder
cupbeer,preferablylagerorpilsner
2
2
tablespoonsicewater
Peanutoil,forfrying
mediumyellowonions,cutcrosswiseinto½-inch-thickslices,separatedintorings1.Whisktogether1cupflour,thesalt,whitepepper,andbakingpowderinabowl.Whiskinbeerandicewateruntilcombined.Placeremainingcupflourinashallowdish.
2.Preheatovento200°F,withabakingsheetonmiddlerack.Heat3inchesofoilto375°Finamediumpotovermediumhigh.Dredgeonionsinflour,turningtocoat;tapoffexcess.Workinginbatches(about8atatime),diponionsinbatter,shakingoffexcess.Carefullyaddtohotoil.Cookuntilgoldenbrown,2to3minutes.Transfertopapertowelstodrain.Sprinklewithsalt.Transfertobakingsheettokeepwarmwhilecookingremainingonions.Adjustheatasnecessarytokeepoilatasteadytemperature.Servehot.
1
1
2
41
1
½
1
Normandy-StyleChickenandLeekswithCrèmeFraîche
LeeksgrowinabundanceinNormandy,innorthernFrance,wherethealliumsarecelebratedfortheirabilitytotransformeventhesimplestdishintosomething
spectacular.TakechickenNormande,amulti-layeredmaincourseofbraisedchicken,hardapplecider(anotherlocalspecialty),andofcourse,leeks.Servethiswithcrusty
bread.
SERVES4
wholechicken(about4pounds),cutinto10pieces(eachbreastcutinhalfcrosswise)Coarsesaltandfreshlygroundpepper
tablespoonunsaltedbutter
teaspoonsoliveoil
smallleeks(whiteandpale-greenpartsonly),cutcrosswiseinto3-inchpieces,rinsedwell(about1pound)cupgood-qualityhardapplecider
tablespooncoarselychoppedfreshthymeleaves
cupcrèmefraîche
tablespoonfinelychoppedfreshflat-leafparsley
1.Seasonchickenalloverwithsaltandpepper.Meltthebutterwiththeoilinalargeenameledcast-ironDutchovenovermedium-highheatuntiljustbubbling.Addhalfthechickenpieces,skinsidedown;cook,turningonce,untilgolden,2to3minutesperside.Transferchickenpiecestoaplate.Repeatwithremainingchickenpieces;addtoplate.Removepotfromheat;letcoolslightly.
2.Returnpottomedium-lowheat,andaddleeks.Cook,stirringfrequently,untilleeksbegintosoftenandarepalegolden,about3minutes.Addhardciderandthyme.Moveleekstoedgesofpot,andaddallthechickenpiecestocenter,skinsidedown.Arrangeleeksover
chicken.Coverandcook15minutes(ifliquidisbubblingrapidly,reduceheattolow).Turnchickenpieces,andcookuntilbreastsarecookedthrough,about5minutesmore.Useaslottedspoontotransferchickenbreaststoaplate,andcovertokeepwarm.Adjustleekssotheyaresubmergedinliquid.Cook,uncovered,untiltheremainingchickenpiecesaretenderandcookedthrough,about10minutes.
3.Transferallthechickentoawarmservingplatter.Removeleeksfrompot,andarrangethemaroundthechicken.Covertokeepwarm.Returnpottomediumheat.Cook,uncovered,untilliquidhasreducedbyabouthalf(toascant⅔cup),8to10minutes.
4.Reduceheattomediumlow.Whiskinthecrèmefraîcheandparsley.Ladlepansauceoverchickenandleeks.Serveimmediately.
TIPRegularapplecideroradrywhitewine,suchasSauvignonBlanc,canbeusedinplaceofthehardcider.
6
4
12
2
¼1½
PastaCarbonarawithLeeksandLemonWhenitcomestocarbonara,therearethosewhoadheretotheoriginalcombinationof
egg,guanciale(orbaconorpancettainitsplace),andgratedcheese,andthosewhofavoraddingheavycreamtothemix.Wesaythere’sroomforbothinyourrepertoire,
includingthisversionthat’senhancedwiththeflavorofsautéedleeks.Freshparsleyandlemonzestandjuiceaddbrightness.
SERVES4
slicesbacon,cutcrosswiseinto1-inchpieces
leeks(whiteandpale-greenpartsonly),halvedlengthwise,thinlysliced,rinsedwellCoarsesaltandgroundpepper
ouncesshortpasta,suchasgemelliorcampanelle
largeeggs
cupgratedParmigiano-Reggianocheese,plusmoreforservingtablespoonfinelygratedlemonzest,plus1tablespoonlemonjuicecupfreshflat-leafparsleyleaves,coarselychopped
1.Inalargeskillet,cookbaconovermedium,stirringoccasionally,untilcrisp,8to10minutes.Withaslottedspoon,transferbacontopapertowelstodrain.Pouroffallbut2tablespoonsfatfromskillet.Addleeks,seasonwithsaltandpepper,andcook,stirringoften,untilleeksaregoldenbrown,about10minutes.
2.Meanwhile,cookpastainapotofsaltedboilingwateruntilaldente,accordingtopackageinstructions.Inalargebowl,whisktogethereggs,cheese,andlemonzestandjuice.
3.Measureout¼cuppastawaterandwhiskintoeggmixture.Drainpastaandimmediatelyaddtoeggmixture,alongwithbacon,leeks,andparsley.Seasonwithsaltandpepper,andstirtocombine.Sprinklewithmorecheese,andserveimmediately.
1
1½
12
2
¼
2
RoastedSalmonandSpringOnionsBecauseofwhentheyarriveinthemarket,springonionsareoftenpairedwithother
seasonalproduce,includingasparagusandpeas,andashere,withwildsalmon,whoseseasonkicksoffinApril.Thespringonionsareroasteduntilgoldenbrown;unlike
storageonionsandshallots,theydon’tsoftensomuchasbecometenderandchewy,anicetexturalcontrasttothesalmon.Amint-almond-caperpestoisservedalongside.
SERVES8TO10
cupextra-virginoliveoil
poundsspringonions,trimmedandhalvedlengthwise
Coarsesaltandfreshlygroundpepper
piece(3pounds)skinlesssalmonfillet,preferablywildPacificcupslightlypackedfreshmintleaves
tablespoonssliveredblanchedalmonds,toasted
cupplus2tablespoonscapers,rinsedanddrained
Flakyseasalt,suchasMaldon,forsprinkling
lemons,cutintowedges,forserving
1.Preheatovento400°F,withracksinupperandlowerthirds.Coattworimmedbakingsheetswith1tablespoonoileach.Divideonionsbetweenbakingsheetsanddrizzleeachwith2tablespoonsoil;seasongenerouslywithcoarsesaltandpepper.Roastuntilbottomsofonionsaregoldenbrown,25to30minutes,rotatingsheetsfromtoptobottomhalfwaythrough.Removefromoven;reducetemperatureto325°F.Letonionscool,thencombineononesheet.
2.Placesalmonontopofonions.Brushwith2tablespoonsoilandseasonwithcoarsesaltandpepper.Roastonlowerrackofovenuntilpartiallyopaqueincenter,about20minutes.
3.Meanwhile,combineremaining½cupoil,themint,almonds,capers,
¾teaspooncoarsesalt,and½teaspoonpepperinaminifoodprocessororblender,andpuréemixtureuntilsmooth.
4.Removesalmonandonionsfromoven;carefullytransfertoaservingplatter.Sprinklewithseasalt;servewithlemonwedgesandmint-caperpesto.
1
½
1¼
1
½
¼
PickledRampsOneofthemostpopularwaystopreservetheflavoroframpsispickling.Thebrinefor
theseisinfusedwithcorianderandfennelseedsandthyme.Servetherampsasanaccompanimenttoroastedmeats,onacheeseboard,ortogarnishacocktail.
MAKESABOUT2CUPS
cupwhite-winevinegar
cupsugar
teaspoonscoarsesalt
teaspooncorianderseeds
teaspoonfennelseeds
teaspoonwholeblackpeppercorns
Pinchofred-pepperflakes
3
2
1
sprigsthyme
cupswater
bunchramps,trimmedandrinsedwell
1.Stirtogetherthevinegar,sugar,salt,corianderseeds,fennelseeds,peppercorns,red-pepperflakes,thyme,andthewaterinamediumsaucepan.Bringtoaboil.Addramps;returntoaboil.Reduceheatandsimmeruntiltender,5to7minutes.
2.Removefromheat,andletrampscoolcompletelyintheliquid,about1½hours,beforestoringorserving.(Pickledrampscanberefrigeratedintheirliquidinanairtightcontainerupto1month.)
GrilledRampswithRomescoTheintensewildflavoroframpsmakesthemexcellentcandidatesforgrilling.Plus,the
¼
1
1
¼2
2
bulbsholdtheirshapebeautifully,whilethegreenswiltjustenoughtobetender.WeespeciallylovegrilledrampsservedwithasmearofSpanishromescosauce,richwith
thesmokyflavorofroastedpiquillopeppers.
SERVES4TO6
cupblanchedalmonds,toasted
garlicclove
jar(10ounces)roastedpiquillochiles,drained
cupplus3tablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil,plusmoreforgrillteaspoonssherryvinegar
bunchesramps
Coarsesaltandfreshlygroundpepper
1.Pulsealmondsandgarlicinafoodprocessoruntilcoarselyground.Addchiles,¼cupoil,andthevinegar;puréeuntilsmooth.Storeromescosauceinrefrigerator,covered,upto1day;bringtoroomtemperaturebeforeserving.
2.Heatgrilltomediumhigh.Trimanddiscardthetinyrootsfromtheramps.
3.Placerampsonarimmedbakingsheet.Drizzlewithremaining3tablespoonsoil,andtosstocoat.Seasonwithsaltandpepper,andtosstocombine.Brushhotgrateswithoil.Arrangerampsongrillinasinglelayer.Grilluntilhotandcharredinspots,about1minuteperside.Transfertoaplatter.Servewarmoratroomtemperature,withromesco.
½
1
2151
SteamedBlackBasswithGingerandScallions
Here,amixtureofaromaticscallionsandfreshgingerisstuffedintothecavityofawholefishasitsteams,andtherestisspreadontop,forunbeatableflavorallaround
(redonionisalsousedtolinethesteamerbasket).Redsnapperortroutisagoodalternativetoblackbass.Servewithcookedriceorricenoodles.
SERVES2
cuplow-sodiumsoysauce
tablespoonplus1½teaspoonstoastedsesameoil
wholeblackbass(each1½to2poundsand1½inchesthick),scaledandgutted,gillsremovedpiece(2inches)peeledfreshginger,cutintomatchsticksscallions,halvedlengthwise,andcutinto2-to4-inchpieces;plusmore,chopped,forsaucelargeredonion,sliced½inchthick
1.Whisktogethersoysauceandsesameoilina9-by-13-inchbakingdish.Cutafewslitsintothefishonbothsidesusingasharpparingknife.Transferevenlytodish;turntocoatfish.
2.Tossgingerwithscallions;stuffsomeintoeachfishcavity.Spreadremainingmixtureontopoffish.Letstand,covered,spooningmarinadeoverfishoften,for30minutes.
3.Bringabout2cupswatertoaboilinalargeskilletorwok.Arrangeredoniononbottomlayerofa12-inchbamboosteamer.Removefishfrommarinadewithginger-scallionmixturestillontop,andarrangesidebysideononion;reservemarinade.Setsteamerinskillet.Steam,covered,untilfishiscookedthroughandvegetablesaretender,about15minutes.
4.Meanwhile,bringmarinadetoaboilinasmallsaucepan.Cookuntilreducedbyhalf.Strainthroughafinesieve;addchoppedscallions.Servefishandvegetableswithsauce.
TIPIfyoudon’thaveabamboosteamer,youcanarrangethefishsidebysideinasteamerbasketsetinapotfilledwithoneinchofwater.
8
½
¼
3
2
1¼
1
4
31
¼
RiceNoodleswithScallionsandHerbsThisrecipedemonstrateshowtheoften-discardeddarkgreenpartsofthescallioncanaddgreattasteandcolortoadish.ThisistrueoflotsofAsianrecipes,wherescallionsareusedalongwithgarlicandfreshginger,andwhichofteninvolvebriefcookingat
most(thinkstir-fries).Here,scalliongreensarecookedforameretenseconds,justlongenoughtoreleasetheirflavorandmakethemabitmoretender.
SERVES4
ouncesricevermicelli
cupwater
cupfishsauce,suchasnamplaornuocnam
tablespoonsfreshlimejuice(from2to3limes)
tablespoonspackedlight-brownsugar
teaspoonslicedfreshredchile,preferablyThaibirdchilecupsaffloweroil
garlicclove,minced
scallions(dark-greenpartsonly),thinlysliced
largeleavesBostonorBibblettuce,verythinlyslicedmediumcarrot,peeledandjulienned
cupeachlightlypackedfreshmintandbasilleaves,tornintosmallpieces1.Bringapotofwatertoaboil.Cookvermicelli,stirringoccasionally,justuntiltender,about4minutes.Drain,thenrinsewithcoldwater.Letvermicellidrainincolanderfor30minutes,tossingoccasionally.
2.Meanwhile,combinethewater,fishsauce,limejuice,brownsugar,andchileinasmallbowl.
3.Heatoilinaskilletovermedium.Addgarlicandscallions,andcook,stirring,for10seconds.Removefromheat.
4.Tossscallionmixtureandsaucewithnoodlesinaservingbowl.Addlettuce,carrot,andherbs,andtosstocombine.
1
3
2
2
Garlic-ScapeToastsScapesareslightlyspicyand,alongwithfreshchives,makealovelytoppingfortoastsspreadwithbutter.Theycanalsobeusedasasubstituteforramps—inotherwords,
pickled,grilled,andusedinpestosandpastadishes.
SERVES6TO8
baguette,sliced½inchthick
tablespoonsunsaltedbutter,roomtemperature
garlicscapes,cutonthebias
tablespoonscoarselysnippedfreshchives
Coarsesaltandfreshlygroundpepper
Heatgrilltomediumhigh.Toastbaguettehalves,cutsidedown,ongrilluntilgoldenbrown.Dividingevenly,spreadbutterontoasts,thentop
untilgoldenbrown.Dividingevenly,spreadbutterontoasts,thentopwithscapesandchives,seasonwithsaltandpepper,andserve.
½
½
31
1
Green-GarlicButterGreengarlicmixedwithsoftenedbutter,Parmesan,andchivesmakesacompound
butterthatisasversatileascanbe.Here,it’smeltedatopsteak,withheartsofromainealongside;tryitoverscrambledeggs,steamedasparagus,orboilednewpotatoes.
SERVES4
cup(1stick)unsaltedbutter,roomtemperature
cupgratedParmigiano-Reggianocheese
tablespoonschoppedyounggreengarlicstalks(whiteandgreenparts)garlicclove,halved
tablespoonsnippedfreshchives
Fineseasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper
Pinchofred-pepperflakes
Inabowl,mixtogetherbutter,Parmesan,bothgarlics,chives,¼teaspooneachsaltandblackpepper,andthered-pepperflakesuntilcombined.Green-garlicbuttercanberefrigerated,covered,upto1weekorfrozenupto3months.Serveatroomtemperature.
10½¼
2
54
3
2
8
2
2
Herb-and-ScallionBreadPuddingAfulltwobunchesofscallions—whitebulbs,pale-greenparts,anddark-greentops—gointothissavorysidedish.Weuseacombinationofparsley,sage,andthyme,butotherherbs(chervil,oregano,andmarjoram)wouldalsowork.ConsideraddingthistoyourThanksgivingmenu,ortoaccompanycrownroastorbeeftenderloinatChristmas—or
withroastchicken,fornooccasionatall.
SERVES8
cupscubedday-oldchallahorbrioche,in1-inchcubes(from1or2loaves)cuppackedfreshflat-leafparsleyleaves,coarselychoppedcuppackedfreshsageleaves,coarselychopped
tablespoonsfreshthymeleaves,coarselychopped
tablespoonsunsaltedbutter,plusmoreforbakingdishcelerystalks,coarselychopped
garliccloves,minced
Coarsesaltandfreshlygroundpepper
bunchesscallions,thinlysliced
largeeggs,lightlybeaten
cupslow-sodiumchickenbroth
cupsheavycream
1.Combinebreadcubes,parsley,sage,andthymeinalargebowl.Melt4tablespoonsbutterinalargeskilletovermedium-highheat.Reduceheattomedium.Cookceleryandgarlicwithapinchofsaltuntilceleryistender,10to12minutes.Addscallionsandcookuntiltenderbutstillbrightgreen,about4minutes.Pourmixtureintobowlwithbread,andstir.Letcool.
2.Preheatovento325°F.Buttera3-quartroundbakingdish(2to3inchesdeep)ora9-by-13-inchbakingdish.Whisktogethereggs,broth,andheavycream,andseasonwithsaltandpepper.Pouroverbreadmixture,tossinguntilbreadisevenlysoaked.Transfertobakingdish,
pressingintocorners,anddottopwithremainingtablespoonbutter.
3.Bakeuntiltoppuffsandcenterisset,about1hour.Letcoolslightlybeforeserving.
3
5
2
2½
½
GazpachoAjoBlancoAjoblanco(“whitegarlic”)isatomato-freegazpachofromMalaga,onSpain’s
southerncoast.Garlicclovesarebrieflyboiledtosoftenandmellowbeforebeingpuréedwiththeotheringredients,includingalmonds.GrapesandMarconaalmondsgarnish
eachserving.
SERVES6
cupscubedcrustlessday-oldrusticbread
garliccloves
cupsblanchedalmonds
teaspoonssherryvinegar
Coarsesaltandfreshlygroundpepper
cupextra-virginoliveoil,plusmorefordrizzling
SlicedredseedlessgrapesandchoppedMarconaalmonds,forserving
SlicedredseedlessgrapesandchoppedMarconaalmonds,forserving
1.Soakbreadinwaterfor15minutes.Covergarlicwithwaterinasaucepan,andbringtoaboil.Cookfor3minutes;drain.
2.Pulseblanchedalmondsinafoodprocessoruntilfinelyground.Squeezeexcessliquidfrombread,discardingliquid,andtransferbreadtoprocessor.Addgarlic,vinegar,and1½teaspoonssalt;puréemixtureuntilsmooth.Withmachinerunning,addoilinaslow,steadystream,alternatingwith¼cupcoldwater,blendinguntilemulsified.Blendinanother2¼cupscoldwater.Strainthroughafinesieveintoabowl,pressingonsolidstoextractliquid;discardsolids.Seasonwithsalt.
3.Chillgazpacho,atleast1hourorupto1day.Seasonwithsaltandpepper.Dividegazpachoamongbowls.Drizzlewithoilandtopwithgrapesandalmonds,justbeforeserving.
⅓
¼
1
⅔
⅔
¼
CreamyGarlic,Parsley,andFetaDressingAtablespoonofchoppedrawgarlicmayseemlikeanoverabundance(unlessyouarefendingoffvampires),butit’sthestartingpointforacreamydressingthat’skeptin
checkwithbrightparsleyandlemonjuice,fruityoliveoil,sharpfeta,andtangyyogurt.Tossitwithmild,tenderlettuces,suchasBostonorBibb,ordrizzleovergrilledchicken.
MAKESABOUT1½CUPS
cupchoppedfreshflat-leafparsleyleaves
cupwater
tablespoonmincedgarlic
cupplainGreekyogurt
cupextra-virginoliveoil
cupfreshlemonjuice(from2lemons)
1
1
ouncefetacheese,crumbled(3tablespoons)
teaspooncoarsesalt
Puréeparsley,thewater,andgarlicinablenderuntilsmooth,1to2minutes.Addremainingingredients,andblenduntiljustcombined.Refrigerate,covered,atleast30minutesandupto1week;stirtocombineagainbeforeserving.
BEETS
CARROTS
CELERYROOT
JICAMA
PARSNIPS
RADISHES
RUTABAGA
SALSIFY
TURNIPS
ROOTS
Weusedtoactlikerootvegetables.Backinthedaysbeforerefrigeration, we humans would gather nourishmentduringthewarm,brightseasonsandstoreitundergroundin our cellars for lean times. This is essentially whatcarrots, beets, celery root (or celeriac), parsnips, and theirearth-dwellingkindo:stockpileaplant’senergyandstowit safely in the dark, protective earth. No wonder thesevegetablesaresweetanddense-fleshed(at leastcomparedwith, say, more tender, water-packed vegetables likecucumbers,greenbeans,andcelery);rootsarewarehousesofnaturalsugarsandcarbohydrates.Nowonder, too, theykeep so well. Holding steady is written into their genes.Which is not to suggest that root vegetables are nothingmore than long-lived energy sources. Most also containconcentrated doses of the distinctive vitamins, minerals,andphytochemicalscreatedorgatheredbytheplant.
Inthekitchen,homecooksusedtodividerootsintothosewe eat raw (such as radishes) and those we eat cooked(including beets, turnips, and parsnips). The exception tothis is carrots, which can go either way, and whoseversatilityhas longbeenappreciatedbychefsandbakers,aswellasanyonelookingforaquick,crunchy,wholesomesnack. But the truth is that young beets, celery root, andspring turnips are wonderful raw, and radishes aredelectable roasted. Jicama, meanwhile, is enjoyablewhetheryoueatitcookedorraw.Indeed,themomentyoustarttoexploretheversatilityoffamiliarroots,you’reinforrevelations—kindoflikefindingprecioustreasurestuckedawayinyourbasement.
THEBASICS
SEASONALITYRootsaresohardyandreliable,mostareavailableyear-round—atleastinsomeform—buttheircharactervariesfromseasontoseason.Fortender,just-pickedyoungcarrots,turnips,beets,andradishes(includingstrikinglybeautifulwatermelonradishesandFrenchBreakfastvarieties),visitagreenmarketinlatespringandearlysummer.Duringthehottermonths,radishesandturnipsturnpithy,hollow,anddry;carrotsandbeetssimplygrowbiggerandmoreflavorful.Watchforceleriacfrommidsummerwellintofall.Autumnbringsanewcropofturnips—thepurpletops,whicharebetterforcookingthantossingintosalads,aswellastheall-whiteJapanesevarieties—andradishes,includingdaikonandBlackSpanish,whicharewonderfulraworpickled.Rutabaga,parsnips,andsalsifyarebestafterafrost—oreveninearlyspring,havingwinteredoverinthedirt.Onlyafewpatientfarmerstakethetroubletonurturethemthroughthesnow,however,socountyourselfluckyifyoufindone!
BUYINGManyrootvegetablesaresoldwiththeirgreensattached,whichareausefulindicatoroffreshness:Thegreensshouldbetender,young,andfirm,notwilted.Celeriac,rutabaga,parsnips,andothercool-seasonroots(includingwintertimecarrotsandbeets)aretypicallywithoutgreens;they’vebeencuredforstorage.Withthosevegetables,avoidonesthataresplitorcracked,havesoftspots,orappearslimyorbrownateitherend.Asforwhethertobuy“baby”ormatureroots,truebabieswillbemildandtender(so-calledbabycarrotssoldinbagsarereallyjustoldercarrotsthathavebeencutandpolished).Manyroots,includingparsnipsandcarrots,sweetenastheymature—soaslongastheyaren’twoodyordry,oldercanbebetter.Withjicama,lookforsmooth-skinned,firmrootswithoutanybruisesorspots.Ifafewspikygreensaregrowingfromthetop,theyshouldbetenderandbright-hued,notwilted.
NOTABLEVARIETIES
NOTABLEVARIETIESBeets:Besidesthewine-redbeetsyoufindinsupermarkets,therearearainbowofcolorstochoosefrom:GoldenGlobeisslightlysweeterandmilderthanredonesandstartsoutorangebutturnsyellowwhencooked;AlbinaVerdunaispurewhiteandverysweet,withbright,curlytops;Chioggia,anItalianheirloom,isagreatslicer,revealingpinkandwhiteconcentricrings;andCylindraisdarkredandcylindrical.KleineBol(“LittleBall”),atruebabybeetvariety,istenderandperfectlyshaped.Mostbeetscanbeusedinterchangeablyinrecipes,thoughtheircookingtimeswillvary.
Carrots:Inadditiontothefamiliar,taperingImperatorvarieties,keepaneyeoutforblunt-tippedNantes,whichtasteespeciallysweet;short,stoutChantenays;andsmallroundRomeos.Otherheirloomvarietiesmaybepurple,red,yellow,evenwhite.These,too,canbeswappedoneforanother.
Radishes:CherryBelleradishesarethemostcommonvariety,withtheirlipstick-redskinsandsnow-whiteflesh.Tryalsosweeter,milderPinkBeautiesandslender,ultra-crunchyFrenchBreakfastradishes;mildlypungentandslightlypepperyWhiteIciclevarieties;watermelonradisheswithgreenskinsandstripedpinkinteriors;golfball-shapedwhiteSnowBelles;long,milddaikonvarieties;andevenspicyblack-skinnedBlackSpanishRounds.
Salsify:Alsocalled“oysterplant,”salsifycomesintwotypes:white(calledsalsify)andblack(knownasscorzonera),thelatterofwhichishardertofindbutmorehighlyregardedbycooksforitsdistinctivecolorandflavor.
Turnips:Liketheircousinstheradishes,turnipscomeinvariousshapesandsizes.PurpleToppedWhiteGlobeisthemostcommonandhasaclean,pepperybite;Japanesewhiteturnips(Hakurei)aremildandsweetevenwhenraw;GoldenBallturnipshavesweet,goldenfleshandskin;ScarletQueenhasreddishskinbutthetypicalwhiteflesh;Gilfeatherhasgreenish-whiteskinandcreamyskin.Ifyouspotsomethinglabeledablackturnip,it’sactuallyablackradish.
STORINGBecausenaturedesignedrootstobesupplytanksforthestemsandgreens—andeventuallytheseedsthatsproutfromtheirtops—youshouldcutoffthegreensassoonasyougetthemhome,orthey’lldrawmoisturefromtheroot(forinformationonhowtocooksuchgreens,seethispage).Storeroots(exceptjicama)looselywrappedinaplasticbaginthevegetablebinoftherefrigerator.Winterrootscan
keepuptothreeweeks,buttheyoungonesofspringandearlysummershouldbeeatenwithinthreedaysforthebestflavorandtexture.Jicamaisbeststoredinacool,dark,dryplace,similartopotatoes,andnotintherefrigerator.
PREPPINGMuchofthecharacteristicflavorofabeet,carrot,orradishresidesinitsskin,asdoesaconcentrationofnutrients.Butsodopesticides,sobuyorganicandscrubthevegetableswithasoft-bristledbrush,ratherthanpeeling,beforeserving.Otherroots,suchasceleriac,parsnips,salsify,andrutabaga,mustbepeeledbeforecooking—notonlyarethepeelsbitter,buttheytendtobeknobbyandgnarly,andtoholddirtandgrit.Celeriacinparticularhasagnarledsurface,andrequiresageneroushandwiththepeelerorparingknife.Beets,too,needpeeling;butifyoudosopriortocooking,muchofthevegetable’sflavorandcolorwillleachout,soholdoffuntilafter,whentheskinswillslipoffwithagentlerub(wearglovestopreventyourhandsfromstaining).Jicamashouldalsobepeeled;itstoughskinunderminestherefreshingtextureofitscrispwhiteflesh.
COOKINGCookingarootnotonlysoftensitsdense,firmfleshbutalsoenhancesitsinherentsweetnessbybreakingdowncellwallsandreleasingstoredsugarssotheybecomeavailabletoourtastebuds.Mostrootsbenefitfromroasting,whichcaramelizesthesenaturalsugars,addingdepthtotheflavor.Sautéing,whichbrownsthesurface,candothesame.Steaming,meanwhile,impartsacleaneressencethanboiling,whichcanwashawaytheroots’subtleraromasandearthynotes.Likecarrots,radishes,andceleryroot,youngbeetsandturnipscanbeservedraw—grateonthelargeholesofaboxgrater(orwiththegratingdiscofyourfoodprocessor),slicetranslucent-thinwithasharpknifeormandoline,orcutintomatchsticks,andaddtosaladsorslaws.Jicamaistypicallyservedraw—infruitorvegetablesalads—thoughitcanalsoberoasted.InMexico,itissometimesalsoaddedtosoups,whereithasthecharacterofamildturnip.
HOWTOROAST(Forallrootsexceptbeets)Trimandpeelvegetables;leavewholeorcutintouniformpieces.Onarimmedbakingsheet,drizzlewitholiveoil,seasonwithsaltandpepper,andsprinklewithchoppedfreshherbssuchasthymeorrosemary.Spreadevenlyandroastat450°F,
choppedfreshherbssuchasthymeorrosemary.Spreadevenlyandroastat450°F,tossing,untiltenderandcaramelized,20to30minutesdependingonsizeofpieces.Drizzlewithoil,andtopwithherbsand/orgratedsharpcheese.
(Forwholebeets)Placewhole,unpeeledbeetsonapieceoffoillinedwithparchment.Drizzlewitholiveoil,andseasonwithsaltandpepper.Wraptoenclosebeets,andplaceonarimmedbakingsheet.Roastat450°Funtilknife-tender,45to60minutes.Removefromoven;letcool,thenruboffskinswithpapertowels.Leavewholeorcutintowedges,drizzlewithoilandlemonjuice,andsprinklewithgoatcheeseand/orherbs.
HOWTOSTEAM(Forallrootsexceptjicama)Trimandpeelvegetables;leavewholeorcutintouniformpieces.Placeinasteamerbasket(orcolander)setinapotwith1inchwater;bringtoaboil.Coverandsteamuntiltender,10to20minutesdependingonsizeofpieces.Tosswitholiveoil,applecidervinegar,salt,andpepper.
HOWTOGLAZE(Forallrootsexceptjicama)Trimandpeelvegetables;leavewholeorcutinto1-inchpieces.Heatsaffloweroilinalargeskilletovermedium-highuntilshimmering.Addvegetables;cook,stirringoccasionally,untilgoldenbrown,5to8minutesforpieces;10to12minutesforwhole.Addenoughbrothtocover,seasonwithsalt,andcover.Simmeruntilvegetablesareknife-tender,8to10minutesforpieces;15minutesormoreforwholevegetables,dependingonsize.Removelidandboiluntilliquidhasreducedtoasyrupyglaze,stirringoccasionally,8to10minutesmore.Seasonwithsaltandpepper.Removefromheat,andtosswithbutteroroliveoiltocoat.
HOWTOMASHORPUREE(Forallrootsexceptjicama)Trim,peel,andchopvegetablesevenly.Bringapotofwatertoaboil,thenaddsaltandvegetables.Returntoaboil,thenreduceheatandsimmeruntilverysoft,10to15minutes.Drainandreturnvegetablestopot,andcookoverlowheat,stirring,todry,1to2minutes.Forcoarsemashes,mashwithapotatomasherorwoodenspoonwithenoughwarmmilk,cream,orbroth(oracombination)toachievedesiredconsistency,alongwithbutterandsaltandpeppertotaste;orpassthroughafoodmill(foraslightlysmoothermash).Forvelvetypurees,pureeinablenderwithliquidandseasonings.
liquidandseasonings.
HOWTOUSERAW(Forallrootsexceptrutabagaandsalsify)Trimandpeelvegetables.Shaveasthinaspossibleonamandoline,grateonthelargeholesofaboxgrater,orcutintomatchstickswithasharpknife.Carrotsandparsnipscanalsobepeeledintostripsusingavegetablepeeler.Tosswitholiveoil,vinegarorcitrusjuice,andsaltandpepper,andtopwithchoppedfreshherbssuchasbasil,mint,orparsley.Addchoppedtoastednuts,suchasalmondsorwalnuts,orcrumbleinafreshcheese,suchasfetaorgoat.
FLAVORPAIRINGSGowithitoragainstit?That’sthecook’sdilemma.Youcanplayuparoot’sinherentsweetnesswithsugaryingredientslikemaplesyrup,honey,andbrownsugar,orcounteractitwithacidicvinegarandlemonjuice,sharpmustard,tartgoatcheeseandtangyyogurt,orbitterarugulaorwatercress.Mostrootspairnicelywithnutsandnutoils,whichbringouttheirearthyflavors.Herbsaddwonderfulnotesoffreshness.Mild-flavoredturnipstastesimilartopotatoes,especiallywhencooked;pairthemwithbacon,garlic,thyme,orvinegar.Celeriac’sflavorislikenedtoacrossbetweenceleryandparsley,makingitwellsuitedtosweetercompanionslikemaplesyrupandpears.Salsifyisslightlysweetandisoftendescribedastastingsimilartoasparagusorartichokes.Jicamaisjuicyandcrunchyandtasteslikeacrossbetweenanappleandapotato(henceitsnickname,“Mexicanpotato”).Andkeepinmind:theflavorsofrootsgenerallycomplementoneanother,sodon’tbeafraidtocombineatawhim(cookbeetsseparatelyandaddthematlastminutetopreventanentiredishfromcoloring).Potatoes,too,combinebeautifullywithroots,whetherroasted,mashed,orfried.
BEETS:orange,rosemary,tarragon,mint,basil,yogurt,goatcheeseCARROTS:parsley,cilantro,dill,honey,garlicCELERYROOT:Dijonmustard,apples,allspice,cream,parsleyJICAMA:lime,orange,grapefruit,mango,avocado,cucumbers,chiles,cilantroPARSNIPS:nutmeg,maplesyrup,sage,pancetta
RADISHES:butter,chives,ryebread,parsley,feta,vinegarRUTABAGA:apples,pears,honey,cream,ginger,nutmeg,cardamomSALSIFY:butter,cream,wine,honey,shallots,prosciutto,ParmesanTURNIPS:bacon,garlic,duck,maplesyrup,vinegar,
thyme
THERECIPES
RoastedBeetandPotatoBorscht
SesameCarrotSlaw
BeetSaladwithGingerDressing
BeetRisottowithBeetGreens
SpicyCarrotSoup
CeleryRootandPotatoRösti
RoastedCarrotsandQuinoawithMisoDressing
Jicama-CitrusSalad
RainbowCarrotsandChard
LacqueredShortRibswithCeleryRootPurée
LeekandParsnipSoup
SalsifyGratin
RadishTartine
RoastedRadisheswithCapersandAnchovies
MoroccanVegetableSoup
Rutabaga-AppleMash
TurnipSaladwithBaconVinaigrette
BrisketwithParsnipsandCarrots
RoastedRutabagaandBrusselsSprouts
CarrotFries
SpicedParsnipCupcakeswithCreamCheeseFrosting
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2
5
1
RoastedBeetandPotatoBorschtYoucanfinddozensofvariationsonborscht,theRussianbeetsoup.Some(likethisone)areservedhot,otherschilled,somepureeduntilsmooth,othersnot—butallshowcase
thebeautyofbeets.Thisversioncallsforroastingpeeledandchoppedbeets,ratherthanboiling,foradeeper,richerflavor;potatoesareaddedformoreheft.Sourcreamisthe
traditionaltopping,andhelpstobalancethesweetnessofthebeets.
SERVES4
poundsredbeets,scrubbed,peeled,andcutintomediumdicepoundrussetpotatoes,peeledandcutintomediumdiceshallots,coarselychopped
to5sprigsthyme
tablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil
Coarsesaltandfreshlygroundpepper
cupslow-sodiumchickenbrothorwater
tablespoonred-winevinegar
Sourcream,thinlyslicedscalliongreens,andchoppedfreshflat-leafparsley,forserving1.Preheatovento400°F.Inaroastingpanoronarimmedbakingsheet,tosstogetherbeets,potatoes,shallots,thyme,andoil;seasonwithsaltandpepper.Arrangeinasinglelayerandroastuntilbeetsandpotatoesaretender,about45minutes.
2.Discardthyme.Transfervegetablestoapot,alongwithbroth.Bringtoasimmerovermediumhighandcooktoheatthrough.Withapotatomasherorthebackofawoodenspoon,mashsomevegetablesuntilsoupisthickandchunky.Stirinvinegarandseasonwithsaltandpepper.Divideamongbowls,topwithsourcream,scalliongreens,andparsley,andserve.
TIPYoucanmakethesoupwithwaterinplaceofchickenbrothforavegetarianoption.
1
¾4
1
1
½
SesameCarrotSlawBesidesmoreclassicversions,suchasall-Americancarrot-and-raisinsalad,carrotslaws
areendlesslyadaptable.Youcantossinothershavedvegetables,includingcabbage,fennel,beets,jicama,orasparagus.Ricevinegar,limezestandjuice,scallions,and
toastedsesameseedsgivethisslawAsianflavors.
SERVES4
tablespoonsesameseeds
poundcarrots,peeledandshavedwithavegetablepeelerscallions,thinlyslicedlengthwise
tablespoonricevinegar
tablespoonsaffloweroil
teaspoonfinelygratedlimezest,plus1tablespoonfreshlimejuiceCoarsesaltandfreshlygroundpepper
1.Heatasmallskilletovermedium.Toastsesameseeds,shakingpanfrequently,untilgoldenandfragrant,2to3minutes.Transfertoaplatetocool.
2.Combinecarrots,scallions,vinegar,oil,sesameseeds,andlimezestandjuiceinabowl.Seasonwithsaltandpepper,andtosstocombine.
6
2
1
1
½
BeetSaladwithGingerDressingRoastingreallybringsoutthebeet’ssweeterside,mellowsitsflavor,andbreaksdownallthosepent-upstarchestocreateasilkentexture.Welovethemasaversatilebaseformanydifferentsaladsandsides.Here,beetsandfreshgingermakeawonderfulpairing,
withbalsamicvinegaraddingsharp-sweetnotesandpistachioslendingcrunch.
SERVES4
smallbeets(about2pounds),scrubbed
tablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil
tablespoonbalsamicvinegar,preferablywhite
tablespoonfinelygratedpeeledfreshginger
Coarsesaltandfreshlygroundpepper
cupshelledpistachios,toastedandchopped
1.Preheatovento425°F.Wrapbeetsinparchment,thenfoil,andplaceonarimmedbakingsheet.Roastuntilknife-tender,about45minutes.Whencoolenoughtohandle,rubwithapapertoweltoremoveskins.Cutinto¾-inchwedges.
2.Inalargebowl,whisktogetheroil,vinegar,andginger;seasonwithsaltandpepper.Tossbeetsindressing,sprinklewithpistachios,andserve.
TIPRememberthatbeetsofdifferentsizesandcolorswillroastatdifferentrates,butallaredonewhentheyareknife-tenderandtheirskinsruboffwithrelativeease.Cookedbeetsarebestseasonedwhiletheyarestillwarmandbetterabletoabsorbflavors.
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3
1
½
2
½
BeetRisottowithBeetGreensHere’sarisottothatmakesexcellentuseofbeetrootsandtheirgreentops.Whenitcomestocooking,beetgreens,kale,collards,andothersturdygreensarebasically
interchangeable—theycanallbesautéed,simmeredinstews,orbraised.(Infact,youcouldsubstitutebeetgreensinmanyoftherecipesbeginningonthispage.)SERVES6
poundsmallbeetswithgreensattached,rootsandgreensseparated,rootsscrubbed,greenschoppedandwashedwithwaterleftclingingtoleavestablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil
garlicclove,minced
smallonion,finelychopped
cupslow-sodiumchickenbroth
cupArboriorice
cupdrywhitewine
tablespoonsunsaltedbutter
cupfinelygratedParmigiano-Reggianocheese
Coarsesaltandfreshlygroundpepper
1.Preheatovento425°F.Wrapbeetsinparchment,thenfoil,andplaceonarimmedbakingsheet.Roastuntilknife-tender,about45minutes.Whencoolenoughtohandle,rubwithapapertoweltoremoveskins.Cutinto½-inchdice.
2.Heat1tablespoonoilinalargeskillet.Cookgarlic,stirringfrequently,untilsoftened,about1minute.Addgreensandcook,stirringoccasionally,untiljusttenderandwilted,3to4minutes.Removefromheat.
3.Meanwhile,heatremainingtablespoonoilinapotovermedium.Cookonion,stirringfrequently,untilgoldenbrownandsoft,about10minutes.Bringbrothtoasimmerinasaucepan;reduceheatandkeepwarm.
4.Stirriceintothepotwithonion,andcook,stirring,2minutes.Stirinwine;cook,stirring,untilreducedbyhalf,about3minutes.Ladle½cup
brothintopot;simmer,stirring,untilalmostallliquidisabsorbed(thericeshouldbethinlyveiledinliquidatalltimesduringcooking).Addremainingbroth,½cupatatime,stirringuntilalmostallliquidisabsorbedbeforeaddingmore,untilriceisstillopaqueinthecenterandsuspendedinliquidtheconsistencyofheavycream(youmaynotneedtouseallbroth),about25minutestotal.
5.Stirinbeets,greens,butter,andcheese;seasonwithsaltandpepper.Serveimmediately.
TIPThekeytoafoolproofrisottoisinthestirring:toofastandtherisottowillbeslightlygluey;tooslowanditwillbewatery.Risottowillcontinuetothickenofftheheat,sodon’tovercookit—takeitoffthestovewhilethericeisstillopaque.
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SpicyCarrotSoupCarrotstakewelltosimmeringinbroth,alongwithbasicaromatics,tomakeapuréedsoupthattastes,purelyandsimply,oftherootitself.Harissapastegivesthissoupsome
niceheat.
SERVES4
tablespoonextra-virginoliveoil
mediumleek(whiteandpale-greenpartsonly),halvedlengthwiseandslicedcrosswise¼inchthick,rinsedwellbunchcarrots(about6),peeledandslicedcrosswise¼inchthickteaspoonsharissa
Coarsesalt
cupslow-sodiumchickenbroth
Freshflat-leafparsley,forserving
1.Heatoilinalargesaucepanovermedium.Cookleekuntiljustsoft,stirringoccasionally,4to5minutes.Stirincarrotsandharissa,andseasonwithsalt.Cookuntilcarrotsarejustsoft,stirringoccasionally,8to10minutes.Addchickenbroth,andbringtoasimmer.Cookuntilvegetablesaretender,10to12minutesmore.
2.Puréehalfthesoupinablenderuntilsmooth(becarefulnottofillthejaroftheblendermorethanhalfway).Stirintoremainingsoup.Serveimmediately,toppedwithparsley.
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½
CeleryRootandPotatoRöstiWithitsmildflavor—somewherebetweenceleryandparsley—celeriacisoftenusedto
roundouttheflavorofpotatodishes,likerösti,asavorySwisspancake.
SERVES8
poundsYukonGoldpotatoes,peeledandshreddedonthelargeholesofaboxgratermediumceleryroot(about1pound),trimmed,peeled,andshreddedtablespoonssalt
Freshlygroundpepper
cupextra-virginoliveoil
Chives,snipped,forserving
Sourcream,forserving
1.Workinginbatches,wrapshreddedvegetablesincheeseclothand
squeezeoutliquid.Transfertoabowl,addsalt,andseasonwithpepper;tosstocombine.
2.Preheatovento400°F.Heat3tablespoonsoilina12-inchovenproofnonstickskilletovermediumlow.Spreadpotatomixtureevenlyinskillet;pressgentlytoflattenwithaspatula.Cookfor10minutes.Runspatulaaroundedgetoloosen;spoon2tablespoonsoilaroundedge.Cookuntilundersideisgoldenandbeginstocrisp,10to15minutesmore.Runspatulaaroundedgetoloosen;invertontoaplate.
3.Addremaining3tablespoonsoiltoskillet.Returnröstitoskillet,goldensideup;pressgently.Cook,shakingoccasionally,untilundersideisgolden,about20minutes.Transferskillettooven.Bakeuntilcookedthrough,10to15minutes.Servewithchivesandsourcream.
1
1
1
3
1
1¼
3
1
1
RoastedCarrotsandQuinoawithMisoDressing
Thisvegetarianmaincourseisanexcellentstudyinbuildingasaladwithsubstance.Roastedcarrotsandonionprovidesink-your-teeth-into-somethingsatisfactionalongwithcaramelizedflavor,wiltedspinachofferscolorcontrast,andnutty,chewyquinoa
addsprotein.
SERVES4
poundcarrots,peeledandcutinto1-inchpieces
smallredonion,cutinto½-inchwedges
tablespoonfreshthymeleaves
tablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil
Coarsesaltandfreshlygroundpepper
cupquinoa,preferablyred,rinsed
cupswater
cupsbabyspinach
tablespoonwhite(shiro)miso
tablespoonfreshlemonjuice
1.Preheatovento400°F.Tosstogethercarrots,onion,thyme,and2tablespoonsoilonarimmedbakingsheet.Seasonwithsaltandpepper,andspreadinasinglelayer.Roastuntiltender,tossinghalfwaythrough,about40minutes.
2.Bringquinoaandthewatertoaboilinasmallsaucepan.Cover;reduceheatandsimmeruntiltender,about15minutes.Removefromheat.Addspinach,cover,andletstand5minutes.
3.Transfertoalargebowl;topwithcarrotmixture.Inasmallbowl,whisktogethermiso,lemonjuice,andremainingtablespoonoil.Drizzle
oversalad,tosstocombine,andserve.
TIPBesuretousewhite(shiro)misointhedressing;it’ssweeter,mildertasting,andlesssaltythanothertypes.
1
1
31½¼
¼
11
Jicama-CitrusSaladSlicedpaperthin,jicamaretainsitscrispqualityasribbonsthatminglewiththeotherelementsofthisfruit-filledsalad.Itsmellowflavorisalsoanexcellentmatchfortart-
sweetcitrus,aswellasGrannySmithapples.
SERVES4
redgrapefruit
navelorange
tablespoonsfreshlimejuice,pluswedgesforservingtablespoonsfinelychoppedfreshcilantroleaves,plussprigsforgarnishteaspoonred-pepperflakes
teaspooncoarsesalt
smalljicama,peeledandthinlyslicedintohalf-moonsGrannySmithapple,coredandthinlyslicedintohalf-moons1.Removepeelandpithfromgrapefruitandoranges.Workingoveralargebowl,carefullycarveoutsectionsofgrapefruitandorangefrom
membranesusingaparingknife,lettingsectionsfallintobowlandreservingmembranes.Transferjuicestoasmallnonreactivebowl;squeezejuicefrommembranesintobowl.Discardmembranes.
2.Addlimejuice,choppedcilantro,red-pepperflakes,andsalttothesmallbowlwiththejuices;stirtocombine.Addjicamaandappletothelargebowlwiththefruit.Pourjuicemixtureoverfruitmixture.Gentlytosstocoat.Letsaladstandfor10minutesbeforeservingwithlimewedgesandgarnishedwithcilantrosprigs.
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121
¼
RainbowCarrotsandChardTastetherainbow:Carrotscomeinanarrayofbeautifulcolors.Forthisstrikingsidedish,weblanchedcarrotsinavarietyofhuesjustuntiltenderandbright,thentossed
themwithalemonvinaigretteandthecolor-coordinatedstemsofrainbowchard.
SERVES4
poundsmallcarrots,trimmedandscrubbed
Coarsesaltandfreshlygroundpepper
bunchrainbowSwisschard,stemstrimmed(leavesreservedforanotheruse)tablespoonsfreshlemonjuice,plus½lemon,thinlyslicedintoroundsteaspoonsugar
cupextra-virginoliveoil
Freshmintleaves,forserving
1.Preparealargeice-waterbath.Cookcarrotsinapotofgenerouslysaltedboilingwateruntilcrisp-tender,about7minutes.Transfertoicebathuntilcool,thenremovewithaspiderandpatdry.
2.Cookchardstemsinboilingwateruntilcrisp-tender,about4minutes.Transfertoicebath,drain,andpatdry.
3.Whisktogetherlemonjuiceandsugarinasmallbowl;seasonwithsaltandpepper.Addoilinaslow,steadystream,whiskinguntilcombined.
4.Combinecarrots,chard,andlemonroundsinalargebowl.Tosswithsomedressing(refrigeratetherestinanairtightcontainer),thentransfertoaplatter.Topwithmintandserve.
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5
9
4
1
2
2
1
5
1
2
1⅓
½
3
26
LacqueredShortRibswithCeleryRootPurée
Creamy,ultra-richceleryrootpuréemakesafinepartnerforAsian-stylebraisedshortribs.(Forthebestflavor,braisetheribsadaybeforeserving.)Wetoppedtheduowitha
tartsaladofthinlyslicedAsianpear,celery,scallions,andjalapeño,alltossedwithequalpartsoliveoilandlimejuiceandseasonedwithsaltandpepper.
SERVES8
FORTHERIBS
tablespoonssaffloweroil
poundsshortribs
Coarsesaltandfreshlygroundpepper
garliccloves,chopped
shallots,chopped
largeonion,chopped
driedredchiles,seededandchopped
scallions,chopped
Asianpear,chopped
wholestaranise
cuplow-sodiumsoysauce
cupsGewürztraminerorRieslingwine
cupschampagnevinegar
cuphoney
ouncesfreshginger,sliced
FORTHEPURÉE
mediumceleryroots,peeledandcutinto1-inchcubescupsheavycream
Coarsesaltandfreshlygroundpepper
1.Makeribs:Preheatovento325°F.HeatoilinalargeDutchovenovermediumhigh.Seasonribswithsaltandpepper,andcookinbatchesuntilgoldenbrown,3to4minutesperside.Transfertoaplate(leavedrippingsinpot).
2.Reduceheattomedium.Addgarlic,shallots,onion,andchiles,andcook,stirringfrequently,untilgolden,about10minutes.Returnmeattopotandaddscallions,pear,staranise,soysauce,wine,vinegar,honey,andginger.Addenoughwatertocoverby1inch(about5cups),andbringtoasimmer.Coverandtransfertooven.Cookuntilribsarefork-tender,about3hours.(Ribsinliquidcanbecooled,covered,andrefrigeratedupto2days.Bringtoroomtemperature,thenproceedwithstep4.)3.Makepurée:Bringceleryrootandcreamtoaboilinasaucepan.Reduceheatandsimmeruntilceleryrootistender,about30minutes.Drainceleryroot,reservingcream.Puréeceleryrootwith2cupsofreservedcreaminablenderuntilsmooth.Seasonwithsaltandpepper.
4.Transferribstoaplateandstrainsaucethroughafinesieve.Skimfatfromtop,anddiscard.Returnsaucetopot,andcookovermediumuntilsaucejustcoatsthebackofaspoon,about10minutes.Addribstosauce,andcook,bastingoften,untilribsarehotandsaucecoatsmeat,about5minutes.Serveribsontopofceleryrootpurée,anddrizzlewithsauce.Topwithpearsalad(seenote).
2
2¾
1
1
3
2½
2
½
LeekandParsnipSoupThiselegantversionofvichyssoisereplaceshalfofthepotatoeswithparsnips.
SERVES8
tablespoonsunsaltedbutter
poundsleeks(whiteandpale-greenpartsonly),rinsedwellandcutinto¼-inch-thickhalf-moonsCoarsesaltandfreshlygroundpepper
poundparsnips
poundYukonGoldpotatoes
cupschickenbroth
cupswater
driedbayleaves
cupwholemilk
½
1
cupcrèmefraîche
jar(2ounces)whitefishcaviar(optional)
1.Cutaroundofparchmenttofitinsidealargepot.Meltbutterinpotovermedium.Addleeksandapinchofsalt;coverwithparchment.Cook,liftingparchmenttostiroccasionally,untilleeksaretender,10to15minutes.
2.Peelparsnipsandpotatoes;cutinto¼-inch-thickpieces.Addtopotwithbroth,thewater,andbayleaves.Seasonwithsalt.Bringtoaboil;reduceheattomediumlow.Simmergently,partlycoveredwithlid,untilparsnipsaresoft,about20minutes.Discardbayleaves.Letcoolslightly.Workinginbatches,puréemixtureinablender(donotfilljarofblendermorethanhalfway).Returntopot,andstirinmilk.Reheatovermedium(donotletboil).
3.Stir¼teaspoonpepperintocrèmefraîche.Dividesoupamongbowls,andtopeachwithadollopofpepperedcreamand½teaspooncaviar,ifdesired.
¼2
1½
½
¼
¼
SalsifyGratinWhenpeeledorsliced,salsifywillbegintoturnbrown,soyouneedtokeepitinabowlofacidulated(lemon)wateruntilreadytocook.Therootbecomeswonderfullytenderwhenboiled,thenbakedwithgoldenbreadcrumbsandParmigiano-Reggianoontop.
SERVES4TO6
cupplus1teaspoonfreshlemonjuice(from2lemons)poundssalsify
Coarsesaltandfreshlygroundpepper
tablespoonsunsaltedbutter
cupheavycream
Pinchoffreshlygratednutmeg
cupfreshbreadcrumbs,lightlytoasted
cupfinelygratedParmigiano-Reggianocheese
1.Preheatovento425°F,withrackinhighestposition.Fillalargebowlwithcoldwater;add¼cuplemonjuice.Trimsalsifyandpeel,transferringtobowlasyouwork.Cutsalsifyinto2-inchlengths,andreturntobowl.Drain.
2.Coversalsifywithcoldwaterby2inchesinasaucepan;add½teaspoonsalt.Bringtoaboil.Reduceheattomediumhigh.Simmerjustuntiltender,10to15minutes;drain.
3.Meltbutterinasaucepanovermedium.Stirinsalsify;stirincreamandremainingteaspoonlemonjuice.Bringtoabaresimmer;removefromheat.Addnutmegandseasonwithsaltandpepper.Pourmixtureintoan8-inchsquarebakingdishor8-cupgratindish.Sprinklewithbreadcrumbsandcheese.Bakeuntilgoldenbrown,about20minutes.
1
1
RadishTartineWithnameslikePinkBeauty,CherryBelle,andPurplePlum,radishesarethe
diminutivedarlingsoftherootworld.FrenchBreakfastradishes,inparticular,aremild,sweet,andcrunchy—justrightforslicingpaper-thinandenjoyingonabuttered
baguette,astheydoinFrance.
SERVES6
baguette
Unsaltedbutter,roomtemperature
poundradishes,preferablyFrenchBreakfast,thinlyslicedintoroundsFlakyseasalt,suchasMaldon
Preheatovento350°F.Splitbaguettehorizontallyandtoastonabakingsheetuntillightlycrisp,8to10minutes.Letcool,thenspreadbutter
sheetuntillightlycrisp,8to10minutes.Letcool,thenspreadbuttergenerouslyovereachhalf.Topwithradishes,dividingevenly.Sprinklewithseasalt,andcutintopiecestoserve.
12
2
6
1
RoastedRadisheswithCapersandAnchovies
Radishes,membersofthemustardfamily,haveaspicinessthatstandsuptootherassertiveflavors,likethesaltyanchoviesandbrinycaperspairedwiththemhere.Roastingtamesallthree,andasqueezeoflemonbrightensthewholelot.Thisdish
makesaniceappetizertoenjoywithdrinks,orgreataccompanimenttochickenorpork.
SERVES4
ouncesradishes,halvedorquarterediflarge
teaspoonscapers,rinsedandchopped
anchovyfillets,finelychopped
garlicclove,minced
2
½
tablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil
Coarsesaltandfreshlygroundpepper
lemon,forserving
Preheatovento375°F,withrackinupperthird.Tosstogetherradishes,capers,anchovies,garlic,andoilonarimmedbakingsheet;seasonwithsaltandpepper.Spreadinasinglelayer,androast,stirringonce,untilradishesareshriveledandfragrant,30to35minutes.Servewarm,withlemon.
1½3
½
1
2
⅓
1
1½
MoroccanVegetableSoupUnlikemanysoupsandstews,whereeverythingissimmeredslowlyoverlowheatuntil
tender,thisonetakesjustunderahalfhourtocook,starttofinish.Theresult?Rootvegetablesthatretainsometexture.Carrotsandrutabagaareshownhere,butyoucan
swaponeorbothforparsnips,turnips,orceleryroot.
SERVES6
poundcarrots,peeledandcutonthebiasinto3-inch-longpieceslargerutabaga(about1pound),peeledandcutonthebiasinto2-inch-longpiecestablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil
cupthinlyslicedshallots(2to3small)
Coarsesalt
teaspoongroundcumin
tablespoonsharissa
cupdrywhitewine
can(15.5ounces)chickpeas,drainedandrinsed
Pinchofsaffronthreads
cupsIsraeli(pearl)couscous
Coarselychoppedfreshcilantro,forgarnish(optional)
1.Bringalargepotofwatertoaboil.Addcarrotsandrutabaga,andsimmer2minutes.Reserve6cupscookingwater,thendrainvegetables.
2.Heatoilinalarge,wide,deeppotovermediumhigh.Addshallotsand1teaspoonsalt,andcook,stirringoccasionally,untilshallotsaresoftenedandgoldenbrowninplaces,about5minutes.Addcuminandharissa,andcook,stirringconstantly,1minute.Addwineandsimmer30seconds.
3.Addreservedvegetables,thechickpeas,reservedcookingwater,andsaffrontopot.Bringtoaboil.Reduceheatandcover.Simmeruntilvegetablesarecrisp-tender,8to10minutes.Seasonwith2teaspoonssalt.
4.Meanwhile,bringalargepotofsaltedwatertoaboil,andcookcouscousuntilaldente,about7minutes.Drain.
5.Dividecouscousamongsixbowls.Ladlesoupovercouscous,andgarnishwithcilantro.(Soupandcouscouscanberefrigeratedinseparatecontainersuptotwodays;letcoolcompletelybeforerefrigerating.Gentlyreheattogetherinacoveredpotovermedium,stirringoccasionally,and
garnishwithcilantrobeforeserving.)TIPHarissaisafieryNorthAfricanpastethatisusedasacondimentaswellasincooking.Lookforitatsupermarkets,inspecialtygrocers,oronline.
11
21
Rutabaga-AppleMashWithitspepperytaste,rutabagapairsnicelywithsweetapplesorpears—eitherof
whichcanbeusedinthisrecipe.Andjustaswhenroasted,therootbecomesmashablytenderafterboiling,whilethefruitsoftenstoasauce.Servewithlamborcrownroast.
SERVES4
largerutabaga,peeledandcutinto1-inchpieces(about5cups)sweetapple,suchasGala,orpear,suchasAnjou,peeled,cored,andcutinto1-inchpiecesCoarsesaltandfreshlygroundpepper
tablespoonsunsaltedbutter,plusmoreforservingcupheavycream
Freshthyme,forserving
1.Combinerutabagaandappleinasaucepan,andcoverwithwaterby2
inches.Bringtoaboilandaddsalt.Reduceheatandsimmeruntilrutabagaistender,15to20minutes.Drain;transfertoabowl.
2.Meanwhile,heatbutterandcreaminanothersaucepanuntilbutterismeltedandmixtureishot(donotboil).
3.Addbuttermixturetorutabagamixtureandmashwithapotatomasherorwoodenspoon,justuntilpiecesbreakdownbutmashiscoarse.Seasonwithsaltandpepper,andservetoppedwithmorebutterandfreshthyme.
21
2
2
4
2
1
TurnipSaladwithBaconVinaigretteBabyturnipshavenoneofthesharpnessofmatureones,andtheirgreensarealsomore
tender—allthebetterforcombininginasaladdressedwithawarmvinaigrette.
SERVES4
bunchesbabyturnips,trimmed,greensreserved,turnipscutintowedgesteaspoonextra-virginoliveoil
Coarsesaltandfreshlygroundpepper
teaspoonssherryvinegar
teaspoonsgrainymustard
cupsbabyspinach
slicesbacon,thinlyslicedcrosswise
shallot,minced
2 tablespoonspecans,toastedandcoarselychopped
1.Preheatovento375°F.Tossturnipwedgeswithoiland½teaspoonsaltonarimmedbakingsheet.Roast,tossingafter15minutes,untilgoldenbrownandtender,about35minutes.
2.Whisktogethervinegar,mustard,¼teaspoonsalt,and¼teaspoonpepperinasmallbowl.
3.Washturnipgreenswell,andtearinto3-inchpieces.Tossgreenswithspinach.
4.About5minutesbeforeturnipsarefinishedroasting,heatasmallhigh-sidedskilletovermediumhigh.Addbaconandcook,stirring,untilcrisp,4to5minutes.Addshallotandcookuntilsoft,1to2minutes.Removefromheat,andstirinvinegarmixture.Foldwarmbaconvinaigretteintogreens.Transfertoaplatter;topwithroastedturnipsandpecans.
1
31
22
1½
4½
2
1
2010
1
BrisketwithParsnipsandCarrotsRootvegetablesareessentialtothisdish’sappeal:Justthinkwhatyouwouldbemissingwithoutallthosecarrotsorparsnipsonyourplate.Afewhoursinalowovennotonly
makesinexpensivecutslikebrisketfalling-aparttender,italsoturnsdense,starchyrootsintosoft,deeplyflavorfulreceptaclesforthedeliciouspanjuices.
SERVES8
first-cutofbeefbrisket(5pounds)
Coarsesaltandfreshlygroundpepper
tablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil,plusmoreifneededlargeonion,halvedandthinlysliced
garliccloves,minced,plus1head,halvedhorizontallytablespoonstomatopaste
cupsdryredwine,suchasPinotNoir
cupslow-sodiumchickenbroth
freshordriedbayleaves
poundparsnips,peeledandhalved
smallcarrots(about8ounces),peeledandstemendstrimmedto½inchouncesredpearlonions,peeled(about2½cups)
tablespoonbalsamicvinegar
1.Preheatovento325°F.Seasonbothsidesofbrisketwithsaltandpepper.HeatalargeDutchovenorroastingpanovermediumhigh.Add3tablespoonsoiltopan,swirltocoat,andheatuntilhotbutnotsmoking.Addbrisket;searuntilbrownedonallsides,4to5minutesperside.Transfertoaplatter.
2.Reduceheattomedium.Addonionandmincedgarlictopan;cook,stirringfrequently,untilsoft,about4minutes.(Addmoreoiltopanifneeded.)Stirintomatopaste,andcook,stirring,1minute.Stirinwine,andcook,scrapinganybrownedbitsfrombottomofpan,untilalmostevaporated.
3.Addchickenbrothandbayleaves,andbringtoaboil.Addbrisket,thencoverandroast2hours.Flipmeatover.Addhalvedheadofgarlic.Coverandroast30minutesmore.
4.Arrangeparsnips,carrots,andpearlonionsaroundbrisket;coverandroastuntilbeefandvegetablesaretender,about1hour.Transfervegetablesandgarlictoaplatterandmeattoacuttingboard,reservingpansauce.Tentmeatwithfoil,andletrest.
5.Letsaucestandinpanfor15minutes,thenskimfatfromtop.Cookovermediumheatuntilsauceisreducedbyslightlymorethanhalf,about20minutes.(Youshouldhaveabout2cups.)Removebayleaves,andstirinvinegar.
6.Thinlyslicebrisketagainstthegrain.Arrangeslicesonaplatterwiththevegetables.Seasonwithpepper,anddrizzlewithsomesauce.Serveimmediatelywithremainingsauce.
TIPAwholebriskettypicallyweights8to12poundsandissoldcutintotwopieces—thefirst,orflat,cut;andthesecond,orpoint,cut.Selectafirstcutthat’sevenlythickwithacapoffatononeside.Foranextra-moistbrisket,don’ttrimthefat.
½
2½
1
2¾¼
RoastedRutabagaandBrusselsSproutsAswithmostrootvegetables,roastinghighlightsrutabaga’srichnessandturnsit
wonderfullysweet.Here,therootisroastedalongsidenuttybrusselssproutswithmaplesyrupandlemonjuice,whichcombinetoformadelectableglaze.
SERVES4TO6
cuppuremaplesyrup
tablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil
tablespoonfreshlemonjuice
Coarsesaltandfreshlygroundpepper
poundsrutabaga,peeledandcutinto1½-inchpiecespoundbrusselssprouts,trimmedandhalvedlengthwisecuphazelnuts,toastedandchopped
1.Preheatovento400°F.Whisktogethermaplesyrup,oil,lemonjuice,and¼teaspoonsalt.Addrutabagaandtoss.
2.Transferrutabagaandallbut2tablespoonsglazetoarimmedbakingsheet(leaveremainingglazeinbowl).Spreadrutabagainasinglelayer,sprinklewith¼teaspoonsalt,androastfor35minutes,tossinghalfwaythrough.
3.Raiseoventemperatureto450°F.Addbrusselssproutsand¼teaspoonsalttoremainingglazeinbowlandtoss.Tosssproutswithrutabagaonsheet,andspreadinasinglelayer.Roastvegetables,tossingevery5minutes,untilglazeisverythickandvegetablesaredeepgoldenbrown,about20minutes.Seasonwithpepper,andsprinklewithhazelnuts.
12
½
CarrotFriesForthesamereasonsweetpotatoesmakesuchgoodfries,sodocarrots:They’re
naturallysweet,andthesugarshelpthefriesturngoldenbrownintheoven.Firstcutthecarrotsintosticks(producingmaximumsurfaceareaforcrisping);thentossthemwithgratedParmesancheesebeforebaking,orwithgroundcayennepepperorcumin.
SERVES4
poundcarrots,peeledandcutinto¼-inch-thickstickstablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil
cupfinelygratedParmigiano-Reggianocheese
Coarsesaltandfreshlygroundpepper
Preheatovento425°F.Tosstogethercarrots,oil,andcheeseinalargebowluntilevenlycoated;seasonwithsaltandpepper.Arrangeinasinglelayerontworimmedbakingsheets.Bake,rotatingsheetsandtossing
layerontworimmedbakingsheets.Bake,rotatingsheetsandtossingcarrotshalfwaythrough,untilgoldenbrownandcrisp,20to25minutes.Serveimmediately.
1
1
1½
¼
¾
2
⅔
1
2
8
SpicedParsnipCupcakeswithCreamCheeseFrostingCarrotsaren’ttheonlyrootvegetableforbakingintodesserts.
Naturallysweetparsnipsworkexceptionallywellincakes,too—and,
alongwithbrownsugarandsaffloweroil,helpkeepthemmoist.Warm,fragrant
cardamomflavorsthesecupcakes,whicharefinishedwithswirlsofcreamcheese
frosting,carrotcake’sfamiliarcounterpart.
MAKES12
cupall-purposeflour
teaspoongroundcardamom
teaspoonsbakingpowder
teaspoonfinesalt
cuppackedlight-brownsugar
largeeggs
cupsaffloweroil
tablespoonpurevanillaextract
cupscoarselygratedparsnip
ouncescreamcheese,roomtemperature
4
½
tablespoonsunsaltedbutter,roomtemperature
cupconfectioners’sugar
1.Preheatovento350°F.Line12standardmuffincupswithpaperliners.Inalargebowl,whisktogetherflour,cardamom,bakingpowder,andsalt.Inanotherbowl,whisktogetherbrownsugar,eggs,oil,2teaspoonsvanilla,andthegratedparsnip.Stirinflourmixtureuntilcombined.
2.Dividebatterevenlyamonglinedcups.Bakeuntilatoothpickinsertedincenterofacupcakecomesoutwithonlyafewmoistcrumbsattached,18to20minutes.Letcoolcompletelyinpanonawirerack.
3.Inalargebowl,beatcreamcheese,butter,confectioners’sugar,andremainingteaspoonvanillauntilcombined.Spreadfrostingontocooledcupcakes.(Frostedcupcakescanberefrigeratedinanairtightcontainerupto2days.)
JERUSALEMARTICHOKES
POTATOES
SWEETPOTATOES
TUBERS
Potatoes are the most popular vegetable in America—weeat,onaverage,morethan50poundsperpersoneachyear.But they have a secret: Potatoes are clones. So, for thatmatter, are sweet potatoes and yams (not to mentionJerusalemartichokes,ginger,andmanioc)—eachiscapableofsproutingitsownroots,stems,andleaves,andbecomingafully formed plant, genetically identical to its parent. Ofcourse, cloning isn’t controversial if you’re a tuber orrhizome, the name for such plant parts.Nor is it ofmuchconcerntothecook,whocaresmoreaboutwhatavegetablecandointhekitchenthanwhatitgetsuptounderground.
And in the kitchen, tubers are stars. Mild in flavor, they are versatileplayers that can round out anymeal, fromeveryday scrambled eggs, tohealthful vegetable soups, to the finest filet mignons. Their highproportion of natural starches means these vegetables are capable ofremarkable textural feats, becoming crisp or buttery, creamy, fluffy,crunchy,evensticky,dependingonhowthey’recooked.Andcookedtheyshouldbe,forunlikeotherroots,whichconsistofsimplercarbohydrates,tubersrequireheatfortheirnutrientstobedigestible.
Perhapsthebestthingabouttubersisthatthey’resoeasygoing.Because,aspopularastheyare,they’remorethanhappytosharethelimelight—andmakeanythingthey’reservedwithalittle(evenalot)easiertolove.
THEBASICS
SEASONALITYStoredproperly,mosttuberskeepsowellthatgrocerystoresandevengreenmarketshappilystockthemyear-round.Intruth,however,thesevegetableshavedefiniteseasons—andunlessyoucanreplicateidealstorageconditionsathome,oldpotatoeswillsoonturnspongyandsprouteyesinyourkitchen.Sweetpotatoesandyams,whichcomefromwarm,humidclimates,ripeninfallandwinter(thustheirannualappearanceonThanksgivingtables).Lookforthemthroughoutthecoldermonths.Freshnewpotatoesareavailableonlyinearlysummer,andtheyaremostdeliciouseatenwithindaysofharvesting.Matureboilingandrussetpotatoesarebestinlatesummerandthroughoutthefallandearlywinter.Jerusalemartichokes—whichareneitherartichokesnorfromJerusalem—areavailableinearlyfall.(ThesefloweringplantsareinthesunflowerfamilyandareindigenoustoNorthAmerica,wheretheyarealsoknownassunchokes.TurnsouttheywerepopularinItaly,wherethewordfor“sunflower,”girasole,morphedovertimeintoJerusalem,andtheywerethoughttotastelikeartichokes—hencetheirmorecommonname.)BUYING
Whenshopping,lookforfirm,hardtubersandrhizomes,withoutsoftorspongyspots,orpatchesofdarkorwrinkledskin.Newpotatoesshouldberock-hard,andtheywillhavetranslucent,“feathered”skinthatlooksasifitispeelingoff.Whatevertheirage,potatoesmustbefreeofgreenpatches,whichindicatethepresenceofapotentiallytoxicsubstancegeneratedbyexposuretolight.Andavoidanypotatoesstartingtosprouteyes.
Withsweetpotatoes,optforplumponesofaveragesize,asthespindlyoroversizeonesmaybefibrous.Anddon’tfretoverthedifferencebetweensweetpotatoesandyams.Trueyamsaretropicaltubersthatmaygrowasbigas100pounds;theyseldomappearinAmericanmarkets.Butwe’vecalledcertainorange-fleshedsweetpotatoes“yams”sincea1930smarketingcampaignkickedoffthepractice,andthere’snoharminthemisnomer.
Asforwhichpotatovarietytoselect,itdependsonhowyouplantousethem.So-calledboilingpotatoeshavewaxy,firmfleshthatisgreatforpotatosaladsandgratins.Bakingorrussetpotatoeshaveskinthatlookslikeadustyrockandahigherstarchcontentthatmakesthemfluffupwhencooked—idealforbaking,frying,and
starchcontentthatmakesthemfluffupwhencooked—idealforbaking,frying,andmashing.Withsweetpotatoes,letcolorbeyourguide.Theorange-fleshedonesaresweetestandsoftest.White-fleshedonesarefirmerandhaveanuttyflavor.Redonesfallsomewhereinbetween.
NOTABLEVARIETIESPotatoes:Eventhemost“exotic”potatoeshavebeenaroundforalong,longtime—thousandsofyears,infact.Theunusualvarietiesthathavecaughtonfastestwithgrowersandcooksarepurplepotatoes,becausetheircolorissostriking,andfingerlings,becausetheytastesogood.PurplePeruvianpotatoesaremediuminsizeanddeeplypurplethroughout;othersincludeDakuRound,apurplepotatowithslashesofredandamoist,whiteflesh;Scamp,withmarbledpurpleandyellowflesh;AllBlue,whichistrulyblueinsideandout,withadrytexture;PurpleMajesty,anoblongpotatowithverydarkpurpleskinandpurplemoist,firmflesh;andCherriesJubilee,asmallpotatowhosesweetandcrumblyfleshisapretty,mottledmagentawhencooked.
Mostfingerlings,sonamedfortheirlong,thinshape,haveawarmyelloworivory-coloredflesh;theyarefirmwhensliced,likewaxynewpotatoes,buttheyalsohavesomeofthedry,flouryqualitiesofIdahobakingpotatoes.Thebestfingerlings,suchasRubyCrescentandRussianBanana,havesomuchflavor—sweet,nutty,earthy,evenbuttery—aqualitymanypeoplemistakenlyascribetoanyyellow-fleshedpotato.RedMandelisawaxyfingerlingwithasweet,flowerytaste;RubyCrescent(pinkestwhenfreshlypicked)hasyellowfleshandabutteryflavor,bothsweetandsharp;RedThumb(afavoriteamongchefs)hasabrightredskinandpinkflesh;FrenchFingerlingisanheirloomvarietywithsmooth,pinkskinandyellowflesh.
OthervarietiesworthlookingforareKatahdin,another“all-purpose”potatosimilartoYukonGold;themedium-starch,pleasantlyearthy-tastingEarlyOhio;Gloria,aDutchvarietywithfirm,bright-yellowflesh;Caribe,withwhite,creamy,delicatelyflavoredflesh;RosaLund,amedium-starchpotatothat’sivoryinside,withaheartyflavor;Kennebec,alargepotatowithtanskinandwhitefleshthatholdstogetherwhenboiled;RedGold,amedium-size,red-skinnedpotatowithgolden,sweet,nuttyflesh;andPeanut,anoldScandinavianvarietywitharussetskinandatastereminiscentofchestnuts.
SweetPotatoes:Withmorethanfourhundredvarietiesgrownaroundtheworld,it’sworthgoingbeyondthefamiliarJewels,withtheircopperskinanddeep-orange
flesh,andGarnets,namedforthecoloroftheirskin,withtheirmoist,pumpkin-likeflesh.Anothercommonvariety,Beauregard,hasduskygoldenskinandpalerfleshthat’sfirmerthantheothers.Lookfortheseheirloomandhybrids:Hannahshavetanskinandacreamyinteriorthatislightlysweetanddrywhencooked;Creamsiclehascream-coloredskinandabrightorangeflesh;Covingtonisapinkish-skinnedsweetpotatowithmoist,orangeflesh;Nuggetshavereddishskinandapaleorangefleshthat’sdenseandholdsitsshapewhencooked;O’Henry,whosepalecopperskinandwhitefleshcanbemistakenforaregularpotato,issweetandcreamywhencooked;Japanesesweetpotatoeshaveadistinctiveruby-redskinwithfleshthatiscreamywhiteandslightlydry;Murasakis,relatedtotheJapanesevariety,havereddish-purpleskinanddry,creamywhiteflesh;PurpleSweetPotatoeshavefirm,lightlysweetfleshthat’salsoslightlytart;andStokes,purpleinsideandout,areanearthy-tastingfavoriteamongchefs.
STORINGNewpotatoesandJerusalemartichokesshouldberefrigerated,butallothertubersarebeststoredelsewhere,astherefrigeratoristoodampandcoldanenvironmentforthem.Instead,keeptheminadark,coolplace(theiridealtemperatureis45°F)thatisfreeofmoisture.Kitchenwisdomhasitthatleavingdirtontheirskinmakespotatoeslastlonger,perhapsbecauseitbothshadesanddriesthevegetables—thoughdoingsomakesformoreprepworkwhenitcomestimetocookthem.
PREPPINGTheskinsofpotatoes,sweetpotatoes,andJerusalemartichokescontainflavorandnutrients,soifyourrecipedoesn’tcallforpeeling,aquickscrubmaybealltheprepworktheseingredientsneed.Ifyoudoplantopeelorcutthemfirst,keepabowlofwaterhandyanddropthepiecesinasyouwork,sincethey’llturngrayiftheircutsurfacesareexposedtoair.Don’tworrytoomuchaboutgrayspotsintheflesh;they’remerelybruisescausedbyhandling,anddon’tindicatespoilage.Butbesuretocutawayeyesandanyhintofgreen.
COOKINGBakingandroastingaregreatoptionsformostpotatoes,astheoven’sdryheatplaysupthevegetables’firm,chalkyconsistency.Andpotatoeslikeithotinthere:400°Forhigherwillcrisptheoutsidewhiletheinsidessoften.Sweetpotatoesalsotakewell
orhigherwillcrisptheoutsidewhiletheinsidessoften.Sweetpotatoesalsotakewelltothesecookingmethods,astheyconverttheirnaturalstarchestosugars.Thelongertheprocess,themoresweetnesswillresult:Wholesweetpotatoescanspendanhourormoreintheoven.AndaslowroastmakesJerusalemartichokessoftandalmosttranslucent,withaflavorliketheirnamesakeartichokes,buttheycanalsobepreparedlikepotatoesandevenenjoyedraw.
HOWTOROASTScrubpotatoesandsweetpotatoes(orpeel,ifdesired);peelJerusalemartichokes.Cutintowedgesor1-inchpieces(orleavesmallpotatoeswholeorcutintohalves).Placeonarimmedbakingsheet,drizzlewitholiveoil,seasonwithsaltandpepperandchoppedfreshherbs;tosstocombine.Spreadevenlyandroastat425°F(375°FforJerusalemartichokes),tossing,untiltender,45minutes,dependingonsize.
Note:Parboilingpotatoesbeforeroastingcreatesalightandfluffyinside,withagoldenexterior(muchlikeafrenchfry).Scrubpotatoesandpeel,ifdesired;cutintouniformpieces(¾to2inches),orleavesmalloneswholeorhalvethem.Placeinapotwithenoughwatertocover.Bringtoaboil,thenseasonwithsalt.Reduceheatandsimmerjustuntilpotatoesaretender,10to15minutes.Drainthoroughlyandimmediatelytosswitholiveoil,salt,andpepper.Roastat450°F,flippingonce,untilgoldenandcrisp,about35minutes,dependingonsize.
HOWTOBAKEScrubvegetablesandprickalloverwithafork.Bakeonabakingsheetat400°F(350°FforJerusalemartichokes)untiltender,45to60minutes.Splitopenandtopwithbutter,sourcreamoryogurt,choppedbacon,sautéedgreens,slicedavocado,caramelizedonions,kimchi,maplesyrup(younameit!).Or,setoutavarietyoftoppingsforapotato“bar.”
HOWTOSTEAMPeelvegetablesandcutinto2-inchpieces(halveorquartersmallerpotatoes).Placeinasteamerbasketsetinapotfilledwith1inchofwater.Bringtoaboil,cover,andsteamuntiltender,10to20minutes,dependingonsize.Tosswithbutteroroliveoil,saltandpepper,andchoppedfreshparsleyorthyme.
HOWTOBOILPeelvegetablesandcutinto2-inchpieces(leavesmallerpotatoeswhole,orcutintohalvesorquarters).Bringtoaboilinapotwith2incheswatertocover,thenaddsalt.Boilvegetablesuntilknife-tender,10to20minutes,dependingonsize.Drain;
salt.Boilvegetablesuntilknife-tender,10to20minutes,dependingonsize.Drain;whilestillwarm,tosswithbutteroroliveoilandchoppedfreshherbs;ormashandseasonasdesired.
HOWTODEEP-FRY(Forpotatoes,sweetpotatoes)Peelvegetablesandcutlengthwiseintomatchsticks,placinginabowlofcoldwatertocoverasyouwork.Drainandpatdrythoroughly.Heat3to4inchessaffloweroilinaheavy-bottomedpotovermediumuntilitreaches375°Fonadeep-frythermometer.Workinginbatches,carefullyaddpotatoesandcook,turningoccasionally,justuntiltender,5to6minutes.(Theywillnottakeoncoloratthispoint.)Transfertopapertowelstodrain.Returnoilto375°F,andfryagainuntilgolden,1to2minutes.Drainagain,sprinklewithsalt,andserve.
HOWTOGRILL(Forpotatoes,sweetpotatoes)Scrubsmallpotatoes,orpeellargeronesandcutintoquarters.Placeinapotwithenoughwatertocover.Bringtoaboil,thenseasonwithsalt.Reduceheatandsimmerjustuntilpotatoesaretender,10to15minutes.Drain;letcoolslightly.Tosswitholiveoil.Grillpotatoesdirectlyongrates,turningonce,untillightlycharredandcrisp,1to2minutesperside.Tosswithmoreoliveoilandchoppedfreshherbs,suchasthyme,rosemary,orparsley.Seasonwithsalt.
FLAVORPAIRINGSVersatilepotatoesadoreeverykindofdairy;they’venevermetapieceofmeat,poultry,orfishtheydidn’tlike;andtheygetalongwithallkindsofherbsandothervegetables.Andsweetpotatoesarerightathomeincreamycustards,cheesecakes,andpies.Bothpotatoesandsweetpotatoeshavemadetheirwayintomostoftheworld’scuisines—you’llfindthemincurries,tagines,andtacos,nottomentionontablesacrossEurope.
JERUSALEMARTICHOKES:butter,cream,cheese,bacon,thyme,parsley,sagePOTATOES:butter,cream,cheese,bacon,eggs,chicken,beef,pork,lamb,leeks,onions,rosemary,thyme,parsleySWEETPOTATOES:bacon,lime,orange,apples,ginger,pecans,thyme,parsley,sage,cilantro
THERECIPES
PotatoSalad,ThreeWays
PotatoGnocchi
Mrs.Kostyra’sMashedPotatoes
Salt-BakedPotatoes,Shallots,andChestnuts
LambStewwithJerusalemArtichokes
Tartiflette
Twice-CookedPotatoandLeekCasserole
YukonGoldandSweetPotatoesAnna
SalmonChowder
RoastedPorkChopswithSweetPotatoesandApples
PotatoYeastedRolls,TwoWays
21
PotatoSalad,ThreeWaysIfanythingdemonstratestheversatilityofpotatoes,it’spotatosalad,whichstartsby
boilingthetubers.Fromthere,theformulaisendlesslyadaptable.Varythethemewithdifferentspuds—wechoserussetsintheclassicall-Americansaladwithmayonnaiseandhard-cookedeggs;smallred(“new”)potatoesinawarmvinegar-and-mustardFrenchversion;andfingerlingsforasaladwithbacon,watercress,andceleryleaves.
SERVES4
poundsrusset,smallred,orfingerlingpotatoestablespooncoarsesalt
Inalargesaucepan,coverpotatoeswithcoldwaterby2inches.Bringtoaboiloverhigh;addsalt.Reduceheatandsimmeruntilpotatoesareknife-tender,about25minutesforrussets,15forsmallredsorfingerlings;drain.Whencoolenoughtohandle,ruboffskins,ifdesired.Halveorcutasinstructed,thentransfertoabowl.Tosswithremainingingredientswhilestillwarm,unlessotherwisedirected(seebelow).
1
CLASSIC
Peelandchopboiledrussetpotatoesinto1-inchpieces.Drizzlewith1to2tablespoonsapplecidervinegar;letcool.Combine1peeledanddicedlargehard-cookedegg,½cupmayonnaise,½teaspoondrymustard,and¼teaspoonceleryseedsinalargebowl;seasonwithsaltandpepper,andwhisktocombine.Stirinpotatoes,1dicedcelerystalk,½smalldicedonion,5dicedcornichons,1choppedscallion,and1tablespoonchoppedfreshflat-leafparsley.Refrigerateatleast30minutesorupto1daybeforeserving,toppedwithslicedhard-cookedeggsandsprinkledwithsweetpaprika.
2
2
FRENCH
Whisktogether¼cupextra-virginoliveoil,3tablespoonsDijonmustard,2tablespoonssherryvinegar,1mincedsmallshallot,3tablespoonschoppedfreshflat-leafparsley,and1teaspoonchoppedfreshthymeleaves;seasonwithsaltandpepper.Addhalved(quarterediflarge)boilednewpotatoesand¼smallthinlyslicedredonion,andtosstocombine.Servewarm.(Saladcanberefrigerated,covered,upto1day;serveatroomtemperature.)3
WITHCELERY,CRESS,ANDBACON
Whilepotatoesarecooking,cook4stripsthick-cutbaconovermediumheatuntilfatisrenderedandbaconiscrisp,10to12minutes.Transfertoapaper-towel-linedplatetodrain.Breakintobite-sizepieces.Transferhalvedboiledfingerlingpotatoestoalargebowl;gentlytosswith¼cupplus1tablespoonextra-virginoliveoiland2tablespoonswhite-winevinegar.Seasonwithsaltandpepper;foldin1cupinnerceleryleaves,2cupstrimmedwatercress,andthebacon.Servewarmoratroomtemperature.
2
2
22
¼
PotatoGnocchiThepetite,feather-light,airyItaliandumplingsknownasgnocchiaremadefrom
mashedpotatoes,withflouraddedtobalancethemoisturecontentandjustenougheggtobindthemixture.Weliketotopgnocchiwithasimpletomatosauce,buttossingthemwithbrownedbutterandsageisalsotraditional,asispairingthemwithameatyragù.
SERVES4TO6
poundsYukonGoldorrussetpotatoes
tablespoonscoarsesalt
cupsall-purposeflour,plusmorefordustinglargeeggs
teaspoonfreshlygroundpepper
TomatoSauce
FinelygratedParmigiano-Reggianocheese,forserving
Freshbasil,forserving
1.Inalargesaucepan,coverpotatoeswithcoldwaterby2inches.Bringtoaboiloverhigh;add1tablespoonsalt.Reduceheatandsimmeruntilpotatoesareknife-tender,about25minutes;drain.Whencoolenoughtohandle,ruboffskins,thenpassfleshthroughapotatoricerorfoodmill.Sprinklewithflour;thenaddeggs,1tablespoonsalt,andthepepper.Stirmixturewithaforktocombinewell.
2.Turnoutdoughontoalightlyflouredsurface;verygentlykneaduntilsoftandsmooth,about3minutes.Usingabenchscraperorasharpknife,dividedoughintofourtosixpieces.Rolleachpieceintoalongropeabout¾inchthick.Cutropescrosswiseinto1-inchpieces.
3.Rollacutsideofeachdumplingagainstthetinesofaforkwithyourthumb(eachpiecewillhaveridgesononesideandanindentationontheother).Placeonalightlyflouredbakingsheetasyouwork.(Atthispoint,gnocchicanberefrigeratedonbakingsheetuptoseveralhours.)4.
1
1
1
Workinginbatches,cookgnocchiinalargepotofsaltedboilingwateruntiltheyfloattothetop,2to3minutes.Useaslottedspoontotransfertoacolandertodrain.Toserve,tossgnocchiwithtomatosauce,andtopwithcheeseandbasil.
TomatoSauce
MAKES4CUPS
tablespoonextra-virginoliveoil
largegarlicclove,finelychopped
Pinchofred-pepperflakes
can(28ounces)wholepeeledtomatoes,choppedCoarsesaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper
Heatoil,garlic,andred-pepperflakesinapotovermedium,stirringfrequently,justuntilfragrantandsizzling,about2minutes.Addtomatoesandseasonwithsaltandblackpepper.Bringtoaboiloverhighheat,thenreducetoarapidsimmerandcook,stirringoccasionallyandmashingtomatoes,untilthickened,about15minutes.Saucecanbecooledandrefrigeratedinanairtightcontainerupto1week;reheatoverlowbeforeserving.
3½
8
½¼
½
Mrs.Kostyra’sMashedPotatoesThankstoallthedifferentvarietiesofthehumbletuber,youcanhavemashedpotatoesanywayyoulike—fluffybutgrainy(russets),smoothandcreamier(YukonGoldandlongwhite),chunkywithskinsforaddedtexture(newpotatoes).Thiscreamy,smooth,
ultra-richrecipecamefromMartha’smother,Mrs.Kostyra.
SERVES8
poundswhiteorYukonGoldpotatoes
Coarsesaltandfreshlygroundpepper
ouncescreamcheese,roomtemperature
cup(1stick)unsaltedbutter,roomtemperaturecupwholemilk,warmed
cupheavycream,warmed
1.Inalargesaucepan,coverpotatoeswithcoldwaterby2inches.Bringtoaboiloverhigh;add1tablespoonsalt.Reduceheatandsimmeruntilpotatoesareknife-tender,about25minutes;drain.Whencoolenoughtohandle,ruboffskinsandcutpotatoesintolargepieces.
2.Withanelectricmixeronmediumspeed,beatpotatoes,creamcheese,butter,milk,and¼cupcreamuntilsmooth.Seasonwithsaltandpepperandbeattocombine.
3.Returnpotatomixturetopanandheatovermedium.Stirinremaining¼cupcreamandcook,stirring,untilheatedthrough.Serveimmediately,orkeepwarminacoveredbowloverapanofsimmeringwaterupto2hours.
Salt-BakedPotatoes,Shallots,andChestnutsFingerlingshaveameatyflavorthatmateswellwiththechestnutsinthisholiday(oranycool-weatherday)side
dish.Bakingthepotatoes,chestnuts,andshallotsburiedinsalttrapstheirmoistureasitsealsintheirflavors,withoutleaving
themoverlysalty.SERVES8TO10
331
1
5⅓
cupscoarsesalt,plusmoreforservingpoundssmallfingerlingpotatoes,preferablyredcuppeeledroastedchestnuts
poundshallots,peeled
largesprigsrosemary,cutintotwenty2-inchpieces,plusmoreforservingcupextra-virginoliveoil,fordrizzlingFreshlygroundpepper
1.Preheatovento350°F.Pour1cupsaltintoa2-quartbakingdish.Nestlepotatoes,chestnuts,andshallotsuprightinsalt,withrosemaryinbetween.Pourremaining2cupssaltovertop;shakedishgentlytodistributeevenly.Coverwithfoil,andbakeuntilpotatoescanbeeasilypiercedwithaknife,about2hours.Keepcoveredatroomtemperatureuntilreadytoserve.
2.Removepotatoes,chestnuts,andshallotsfromdish,rubbingoffanylargebitsofsalt.Discardsaltandrosemary.Slicepotatoesandshallotsinhalflengthwise,andarrangeonaservingplatterwithchestnuts.Drizzlewithoil;seasonwithsaltandpepper.Topwithrosemarysprigsandserve.
3
1½
1½22
11
2
2
½
11
⅛
1¼
LambStewwithJerusalemArtichokesThetextureofJerusalemartichokesissimilartopotatoeswhencooked,butwithout
potatoes’starchiness,sotheyholdtheirshapewhenaddedtostews.Thisrecipepairsthetuberswithlambandtomatoes,andisflavoredwithcardamom,saffron,caperberries,
andcilantro.
SERVES6
tablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil
poundsbonelesslambshoulder,cutinto1½-inchcubesCoarsesaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper
poundsJerusalemartichokes(about15small),peeled,cutinto¾-inchcubes,andplacedincoldwater(drainandpatdrybeforeusing)cupscoarselychoppedonion(about1large)garliccloves,minced
tablespoonfreshlygratedpeeledginger(1-inchpiece)cinnamonstick
wholecloves
greencardamompods,lightlycrushed
teaspoonred-pepperflakes
can(35ounces)wholepeeledplumtomatoeswithjuicecuplow-sodiumchickenbroth
teaspooncrumbledsaffronthreads
jar(10ounces)smallcaperberries,drainedcupfinelychoppedfreshcilantro
1.Heat2tablespoonsoilinalarge,heavypotovermediumhigh.Seasonthelambwithsaltandblackpepper;brownthemeat(inbatches,ifnecessary)onallsides,about8minutes.Transfertoabowl.
2.Cooktheartichokesinremainingtablespoonoilinsamepotovermedium-highheat,stirringoccasionally,untilwellbrownedonallsides,about7minutes.Usingaslottedspoon,transferartichokestoaseparatebowl.
3.Addonion,garlic,andgingertoremainingoilinpot;sautéovermedium-highheat,stirringoccasionally,untilonionistranslucent,about
4minutes.Addcinnamon,cloves,cardamom,andred-pepperflakes;cook,stirringconstantly,2minutes.
4.Stirintomatoesandjuice,broth,saffron,and1teaspoonsalt.Usingthesideofawoodenspoon,breakuptomatoes.Addreservedlambandaccumulatedjuices;bringmixturetoaboil.Reduceheattolow;cover,andsimmeruntilmeatistender,about1hour.
5.Returnreservedartichokestopot.Continuetosimmeruntilartichokesaretender,about25minutes;addcaperberriesduringfinal5minutesofcooking.Seasonwithsaltandblackpepper.Discardcinnamon,cloves,andcardamombeforeserving,toppedwithcilantro.
2½
81
½14
TartifletteThistraditionalAlpinedish(which,liketheAlps,straddlesFranceandSwitzerland;tartifliesisSwissdialectfor“potatoes”)isthebestexampleofscallopedpotatoes,withmeltedcheesebindingthepotatoesinplaceofheavycream.Lardonsofcrisp,smoky
baconarelayeredthroughoutandscatteredoverthetop.
SERVES4TO6
Unsaltedbutter,forbakingdish
poundsfingerlingpotatoes,scrubbedandcutlengthwiseinto½-inch-thickslicesCoarsesaltandfreshlygroundpepper
ouncesslicedthick-cutbacon,cutinto1-inchpiecesmediumonion,thinlysliced
cupdrywhitewine,suchasSauvignonBlancouncesReblochon-stylecheese,cutinto¼-inch-thickslices1.Preheatovento375°F.Butterashallow2-quartbakingdish.Inasaucepan,coverpotatoeswithcoldwaterby2inches.Bringtoaboiloverhighheat;add1tablespoonsalt.Reduceheatandsimmeruntilpotatoesareknife-tender,about10minutes;drain.
2.Meanwhile,cookbaconinalargeskilletovermediumheat,turning,untilcrispandgolden,about12minutes.Transfertoapaper-towel-linedplate;pouroffallbut1tablespoonfatfromskillet.Addonion;cookovermediumheat,stirringoccasionally,untillightlycaramelized,about15minutes.Addwineandcookuntilreduced,about2minutes.Stirinbacon.
3.Arrangehalfthepotatoesinprepareddish.Seasonwithsaltandpepper.Topwithhalfthebaconmixtureandhalfthecheese.Repeatwithremainingingredients.Bakeuntilcheeseisbubbling,about25minutes.Serveimmediately.
TIPAlthoughReblochonisamustinFrance,othercheesecreatedinitsspirit,suchasPreferesdesMontagnes,willworkjustfine;ItalianRobioloBosinoandBriearealsoexcellent(butmilder)substitutes.
22
¾
¾
¾2
1
Twice-CookedPotatoandLeekCasseroleSERVES6TO8
poundssweetpotatoes(about5small),peeledandcutinto½-inchpiecespoundsrussetpotatoes(about7small),peeledandcutinto½-inchpiecesCoarsesaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper
cupwholemilk,warmed
cupheavycream,warmed
cup(1½sticks)unsaltedbutter,meltedtablespoonsall-purposeflour
Pinchofcayennepepper
leek(whiteandpale-greenpartsonly),cutinto¼-inchrings,rinsedwellSaffloweroil,forfrying
1.Preheatovento425°F.Coversweetpotatoesandrussetpotatoeseach
with1inchwaterintwoseparatesaucepans.Bringtoaboil,saltgenerously,andboiluntilfork-tender,about8minutes;drain.Returnpotatoestorespectivepans.
2.Inabowl,combinemilk,cream,andbutter.Dividemilkmixturebetweensaucepans.Mashbothpotatoesuntilsmooth;seasonwithsaltandblackpepper.Spreadmashedsweetpotatoesevenlyinthebottomofashallow2-quartbakingdish.Topwithmashedrussetpotatoes;spreadevenlytoedges.Bakeuntilgolden,about25minutes.
3.Meanwhile,inabowl,combineflourandcayenne.Addleek;tosstocoat.Inamediumsaucepan,heat2inchesoilovermediumhighuntilathermometerregisters350°F.Workinginbatches,addleekringsandcook,turning,untilcrispandlightgoldenaroundedges,about1minute.Withaslottedspoon,transfertopapertowelstodrain.Seasonwithsalt.Sprinklefriedleeksoverpotatoesandserve.
1¼1¼6
YukonGoldandSweetPotatoesAnnaSERVES6TO8
poundsYukonGoldpotatoes(3to4medium),peeledpoundssweetpotatoes(2medium),peeledtablespoonsunsaltedbutter,melted
Coarsesaltandfreshlygroundpepper
1.Preheatovento425°F.Cutpotatoesinto⅛-inch-thickslices,keepingpotatovarietiesseparate.
2.Brushanovenproof9-inchnonstickskilletwithsomebutter.Startingincenterofpan,arrangeabout20YukonGoldslices,slightlyoverlapping,inacircularpattern,coveringsurface.Brushwithsomebutter,andgenerouslyseasonwithsaltandpepper.Makenextlayerwith
sweetpotatoslices;brushwithbutterandseason.Repeat,alternatingcolors.Drizzleremainingbutterontopofpotatoes.
3.Cookpotatoesovermedium-highheatuntilbuttervigorouslybubblesinpan,about4minutes.Transfertooven,andbake30minutes.Tentlooselywithfoil;continuetobakeuntilpotatoesareeasilypiercedwithaknife,about20minutesmore.Removefromoven,andrunaheatproofflexiblespatulaaroundedgesofpotatoestoloosen.Letcool;carefullyinvertontoaplate,cutintowedges,andserve.
2
11
32612½
1
SalmonChowderFrugalcookshavelongreliedoncold-storagecropslikepotatoestomakemealswithsubstanceduringlongwinters.Chowdersareamongtheeasiestandmostdeliciousof
those.Nothickenersareneededsincethepotatoescontributetheirownstarches.Infact,potatostarchisathickenerinitsownright,similartocornstarch;it’susedinsauces,
soups,andpiefillings,whilepotatoflourisusedforyeastedrollsandotherbakedgoods.
SERVES6
tablespoonsunsaltedbutter
leek(whiteandpale-greenpartsonly),halvedlengthwise,thinlysliced,andrinsedwellredonion,quarteredandthinlyslicedCoarsesaltandfreshlygroundwhitepepper
smallYukonGoldpotatoes,peeledandcutinto¾-inchcubescarrots,halvedlengthwiseandthinlyslicedcupshomemadeorstore-boughtlow-sodiumfishstockouncesskinlesssalmonfillet(orcodorhalibut),cutinto¾-inchcubescupheavycream
tablespoonchoppedfreshdill
1.Heatbutterinamediumstockpotovermediumlow.Cookleekandredonionuntilsoft,6to8minutes.Seasonwith1teaspoonsalt.Stirinpotatoesandcarrots.Addstockandbringtoaboil.Reduceheattolow,andsimmeruntilpotatoesarealmosttender,6to8minutes.
2.Addsalmonandsimmeruntilopaque,about3minutes.Stirincreamandheatthrough.Stirindill,seasonwithsaltandpepper,andserve.
4
1
21⅓½1
2
RoastedPorkChopswithSweetPotatoesandApples
Kitchenwisdomholdsthatproducethat’sinseasonatthesametimewilltastegreatonthesameplate(whatgrowstogether,goestogether,asthesayinggoes).Here,sweet
potatoes,apples,andVidaliaonionareroastedalongwithporkchopsforanautumnalone-pansupper.Thetuberssoakupthepanjuices—flavoredwithapplecidervinegar,
applecider,andcarawayseeds—thatarealsodrizzledovereachserving.
SERVES4
bone-inporkchops(eachabout10ouncesand1inchthick)Coarsesaltandfreshlygroundpepper
tablespoonextra-virginoliveoil
mediumsweetpotatoes,scrubbedandcutinto¼-inch-thickroundslargesweetonion,suchasVidalia,cutinto¼-inch-thickroundscupapplecidervinegar,preferablyunfilteredcupunsweetenedapplecider,preferablyunfilteredteaspooncarawayseeds
apples,preferablyHoneycrisp,thinlysliced,seedsremoved1.Preheatovento375°F.Seasonporkwithsaltandpepper.Heatalargeovenproofskilletovermediumhigh;swirlinoil.Cookchopsuntilgoldenbrown,turningonce,about8minutestotal.Transfertoaplate.Removeallbut2tablespoonsfatfromskillet.
2.Reduceheattomedium.Addpotatoesandonion;seasonwithsalt.Cookuntilgoldeninspots,about10minutes.Addvinegarandcider.Coverandsimmer,stirringafewtimes,untilpotatoesaretender,about5minutes.Sprinklewithcarawayseeds.
3.Returnporkandjuicestoskillet;tuckappleslicesbetweenchops.Roastuntilathermometerinsertedintothickestpartofchops(withouttouchingbone)registers138°F,about10minutes.Servepork,vegetables,andappleswithpanjuices.
¼
1
1
6½
11
21
1
7
PotatoYeastedRolls,TwoWaysWhenmakingyeastedrolls,tryaddingmashedpotatoestothedough.Notonlydotheyactasanagentforfermentation,ensuringanicerise,buttheyalsohelpkeeptherolls
moistandlight.Bonus:Bothdoughs(thisoneandthepotatodoughrecipe)canbemadewithleftovers,oranequalamountofmashedpumpkinorwintersquash.
SweetPotatoYeastedRolls
MAKES2O
cupwarmwater(110°F)
envelope(¼ounce)activedryyeast
cupmilk
tablespoonsunsaltedbutter,plusmore,melted,forbrushingcupsugar
tablespoonplus1teaspooncoarsesaltteaspoongroundcardamom
cupsmashedcookedpeeledsweetpotatoes(fromabout2medium)teaspoonfreshlemonjuice
largeegg,lightlybeaten
cupssiftedall-purposeflour
1.Placethewarmwaterinasmallbowl,andsprinklewithyeast.Letstanduntilyeastisdissolvedandmixtureisfoamy,about7minutes.
2.Inasmallsaucepan,heatmilkovermediumjustuntilitbeginstosteamandbubblearoundthesides.Removefromheat;addbutter,andstiruntilmeltedandcombined.Stirinsugar,salt,andcardamom.Letcoolslightly.
3.Withanelectricmixeronmediumspeed,beatsweetpotatoesandlemonjuiceuntilsmooth,2to3minutes.Beatineggandmilkandyeastmixturesuntilsmooth.
4.Switchtothedoughhook.Addflour,1cupatatime,beatinguntilastiffdoughforms.Continuekneadingdoughonmediumspeeduntilsmooth,about8minutesmore;thedoughwillstillbeslightlysticky.Transfertoabutteredbowl;coverwithacleankitchentowel.Letriseinawarmspotuntildoubledinbulk,about1hour.
5.Punchdowndough,andkneadwithyourhands,justuntilsmooth.Usingabenchscraperorsharpknife,cutdoughinto20equalpieces,andshapeintorolls.Placerollsonparchment-linedbakingsheetsabout2inchesapart;coverwithakitchentowel,andletriseagaininawarmspotuntildoubledinbulk,about40minutes.
6.Preheatovento400°F.Usingkitchenscissorsorasharpparingknife,snipanXinthetopofeachroll.Brushrollswithmeltedbutter.Bakeuntiltopsofrollsaregolden,rotatingsheethalfwaythrough,about20minutes.Servewarmoratroomtemperature.
222
1
415½
PotatoDinnerRolls
MAKES30TO35
smallrussetpotatoes,peeledandcutinto2-inchpiecesenvelopes(¼ounceeach)activedryyeasttablespoonssugar,plusapinch
cupbuttermilk,roomtemperature
tablespoonsbutter,meltedandcooled,plusmoreforbowl,plasticwrap,andbrushingtablespoonplus1teaspooncoarsesaltto6½cupsbreadflour,plusmorefordusting1.Placepotatoesinamediumsaucepanwithenoughcoldwatertocover.Bringtoaboil;reduceheatandsimmeruntiltender,about15minutes.Drain,reserving½cupliquid.Letreservedliquidcoolto110°F.Meanwhile,mashpotatoeswithapotatomasherorpassthroughapotatoricer.
2.Inthebowlofanelectricmixer,whisktogetherreservedliquid,yeast,andpinchofsugar.Letstanduntilmixtureisfoamy,about5minutes.
3.Attachbowltoelectricmixerfittedwiththedoughhook.Withmixeronlowspeed,addremainingsugar,thepotatoes,buttermilk,butter,andsalt.Addenoughflour,1cupatatime,tomakeadoughthat’sslightlytacky.Continuekneadingdoughuntilsmooth,about2minutesmore.Transfertoabutteredbowl;coverwithbutteredplasticwrap.Letriseinawarmspotuntildoubledinbulk,1to1½hours.
4.Preheatovento375°F.Turnoutdoughontoalightlyflouredworksurface.Usingaflouredrollingpin,rolloutdough¾inchthick.Cutinto2-inch-widestrips.Cutstripsintotrianglesorsquares;placeatleast1¼inchesapartonparchment-linedbakingsheets.Brushtopsgenerouslywithmeltedbutter;coverwithbutteredplasticwrap.Letriseuntildoughisnolongerspringytothetouch,about15minutes.
5.Bakeuntiltopsofrollsaregolden,rotatingsheetshalfwaythrough,about20minutes.Servewarmoratroomtemperature.
BEETGREENS
BOKCHOY
BROCCOLIRABE
CHARD
COLLARDS
KALE
MUSTARDGREENS
TURNIPGREENS
GREENS
Literatureisfulloftalesofthehumbleoutcastwhoproveshimself to be a truehero.The story of collards, kale, andmustard, beet, and turnip greens is a bit like that. Forcenturies, they were the rejected siblings of leafy greens.Deemedunworthyoffinetables,theywerethefoodofthepoor and downtrodden. Fortunately, those who embracedthemwereanythingbutdeprivedwhenitcametoculinaryingenuity,andtheytransformedthesegreensintodishesaslifesustainingastheyweredelicious.
It helped that the coarse and often bitter greens wereendowedwithconsiderablegifts.Theyareamongthemostnutrient-dense vegetables available, according to theCenters for Disease Control and Prevention—as arebroccoli rabe, a member of the turnip family (its namemeans“turnipbroccoli”inItalian),andbokchoy,anAsiancousin.Afterall,likelettuceandendive,thesehardygreensare factories of photosynthesis, transforming sunlight intoedible energy.Anddespite their occasional rough-around-the-edges character, they are delicious, with flavors thatrange from sweet andmineral-like, to bracingly bitter, tospicy hot—though all are tamed by a long, slow simmer,especiallyifasalty,smokybitofhamhockorapig’searisaddedtothepot.
Luckily,deliciousnessignoresclassifications.Someofthesegreens, likekale,havenotmerely shakenoff their earlierstigmabuthavealsobecomedownrightpopular.Andthatmeansahappyendingforall:theunderdoggreens,andthoseofuswhogettoeatthem.
THEBASICS
SEASONALITYGreensprefercoolertemperatures,andalthoughpopularoneslikekaleandbroccolirabearenowavailableyear-round,theyaresweetestinfallandwinter,withcollardsandmustardgreenscontinuingrightthroughtospring.Atfarmers’markets,youcanalsofindthesegreensatthebabystageinearlyandmid-summer.BabymustardandturnipgreensmaybeincludedinAsianbraisingorsaladmixes;babychardandkaleinmesclunsaladmixes.
BUYINGChard,collards,kale,broccolirabe,mustardgreens,andturnipgreensshouldbevividgreen,theiredgescrisp.Avoidlimp,flaccidbunchesandanythatareturningyellow.Examinethestemsaswell:theyshouldbetautandcompact.Passbystemsthatareoversize—theyarelikelytobecoarseandfibrous—andshunanythatarebrownorslimy.Also,examinethecutendsfordrynessorcracking.Beetgreenswillbesoldattachedtotherootstheysproutedfrom;boththeyandthebeetsshouldlookfreshandfirm.Withbokchoy,lookforthick,crisp,bright-whitestemswithoutbrownspots,andbrightgreenleaves.
NOTABLEVARIETIESChard:You’lltypicallyfindthreetypesofchardinstoresandatfarmers’markets:FordhookGiantisidentifiablebycrinklyleavesandthick,white,tenderstalks;Rainbowchardhascolorfulred,pink,yellow,orwhitestalks;andRubyRed(orRhubarb)chardhasthinredstalksandaslightlystrongerflavorthantheothers.
Kale:Curlykale—themostrecognizablevariety—hastightruffledleavesandfibrousstalks,andtheflavorisquitepungent.Youcanfinditinbrightgreenorreddish-purplehues.Lacinatokale(alsoknownbymanyothernames:Tuscan,CavoloNero,Black,orDinosaur)hastall,broad,wrinklyblue-greenleavesthatareheartyenoughtoretaintheirfirmnessevenaftercooking.Theflavorissweeterand
moredelicatethancurlykale.RedRussiankaleboastsabittersweettastethat’sslightlypeppery;itsbrightgreenleavesareflatandfringed,withreddishstemsrunningthroughthemandtough,woodystalks.Youcanalsofindpurpleandwhitevarietiesthatareediblebutmoreoftenusedforornamentalplantings.
MustardGreens:SouthernGiantCurledisthemosttraditionalmustardgreenyoucanfind,butthispungentleafygreenrangesincolorfromlighttodarkgreen,purple,red,orvariegated,andintexture—smooth,frilly,orserrated.TherearemanyAsianvarieties(suchasthosefoundinsaladmixes)thatareharvestedyoungerandarethereforemoretender(perfectforeatingraw);thesemustardgreenscanalsopackahot,spicy,mustardyflavor.
BokChoy:AlsoknownbyitsChinesename,pakchoi,thisAsiangreenismostcommonlythelarger,morematurevarietywithwhitestemsanddarkgreenleaves.Babybokchoyisalsoeasytofindinsupermarkets.Butthereareothervarietiesavailableatfarmers’markets,withstemsranginginthicknessandshapeandevencolor(greenpakchoiisprizedforbeingmoretenderandflavorful).Theleavesalsovary;somehavefrillyshapes,othersarelightergreen,vergingonyellow,andonevarietyhasleavesinatightheadwithhardlyanystemsatall.Theyallshareamustardyflavor;theolderleavesaregoodforpickling(asinkimchi).
STORINGRemoveanytwisttiesorrubberbandsconstrictingthestems.Looselywrappedinaplasticbag,heartygreenswillkeepinthefridgeforseveraldays,thoughtheylosesweetnessandnutrientsovertime,sodon’twaittoolong.Kaleandcollardshaveanaturallyoccurringwaxontheirleaves(youcanseeitwhenyoudunktheminwater)thathelpsthemlastuptoaweek.
PREPPINGTheseheartygreenscomewithsturdystems,soyou’llneedtoseparatethetwo.Todoso,grabthesteminonehandandgentlyencirclethebaseofthegreenintheother,thenslidethishanduptowardthetip,pullingtheleafoffasyougo.Youcanalsofoldtheleavesinhalflengthwiseandsliceoutthestem.Tochopgreensbeforecooking,stackseveralinapile,foldorrollthestackloosely,andcutintowideornarrowstrips,asdesired.
COOKINGVersatilekalecanbepreparedalmostanywayacookcandreamup:blanched,steamed,sautéed,roasted,bakedintogratinsorcasseroles,juiced,oreatenrawinsalads.(Note:Tosoftenkaleleaves,rubthemtogethervigorouslyuntiltheydarken,shrink,andbecometender;youcanalsodothisinasaladbowlwitholiveoilormashedavocadoandsalt,rubbingitintothegreens.)Chardandmustard,beet,andturnipgreensaregoodrawonlywhentheyareyoung,otherwisethey’rebettercooked—andiftheirflavorisespeciallypotent,blanchingfirstcansoftenthatbite.(Youcansautéthechardstems,too;rinse,dry,andcutintosmallpiecesfirst.)Tenderbeetgreensandjuicybokchoyneedonlyaquicksteamorsauté,thoughtheycanalsoberoasted.
HOWTOWILTRemovestems;trimbroccolirabeandbokchoy.Leavewhole,chop,orsliceinto½-inchstrips.Heatoliveoilinaskilletovermedium.Addgreensinbatches,lettingeachcookdownbeforeaddingthenextandtossingfrequently,justuntilwilted,3to5minutes.
HOWTOBLANCHRemovestems;trimbroccolirabeandbokchoy.Blanchgreensinapotofsaltedboilingwateruntilbrightgreenandjusttender,15seconds(forspinachandchard)to2minutes(alltherest);drain.Whencoolenoughtohandle,squeezeoutexcessliquid.Drizzlewitholiveoil,seasonwithsaltandpepper,andservewithlemon.Orsaveforrecipes:Letcoolcompletelyonarimmedbakingsheet,thenstoreinanairtightcontainerintherefrigeratorupto4days.
HOWTOSTEAMRemovestems;trimbroccolirabeandbokchoy.Chopgreensandplaceinasteamerbasket(orcolander)setinapotwith1inchwater.Bringtoaboil,cover,andsteamuntilbrightgreenandtender,5to10minutes.Drizzlewitholiveoilandseasonwithsaltandpepper.
HOWTOSAUTÉRemovestems;trimbroccolirabeandbokchoy.Chopgreens;washandthenrain,leavingwaterclingingtoleaves.Heatoliveoilinalargeskilletovermediumhigh.Cookmincedgarlic(andapinchofred-pepperflakes,ifdesired)untilgolden,stirringfrequently,2to3minutes.Addgreensandseasonwithsaltandpepper.Coverandcookuntiltender,stirringoccasionally,10to15minutes.Removecover
Coverandcookuntiltender,stirringoccasionally,10to15minutes.Removecoverandcontinuecookinguntilmoistureevaporates,2to3minutesmore.
HOWTOROASTRemovestems;trimbroccolirabeandbokchoy.Cutgreensinto2-inchstrips.Tosswitholiveoil,andseasonwithsaltandpepper;thenspreadevenlyonarimmedbakingsheet.Roastat375°Funtiltenderandcrispandbrownontheedges,tossingonceortwice,15to20minutes.
HOWTOBRAISERemovestems;trimbroccolirabeandbokchoy.Halvegreenslengthwise.Heatbutteroroliveoilinalargeskilletovermedium.Adddicedonionandthinlyslicedgarlicandcook,stirringfrequently,untilsoftened,about5minutes.Addgreensandseasonwithsalt;cook,stirring,untilwilted,3to5minutes.Addenoughchickenbrothtocover;reduceheattolow,coverpan,andcookuntiltender,20to25minutesmore.Seasonwithsaltandpepper,andsqueezewithlemon.
FLAVORPAIRINGSHardygreensgetalongwellwithgarlic,oliveoil,andred-pepperflakes,andareequallycontentedwithonionsandbaconorotherbitsofsmokedpork.Asplashofvinegaroranotheracidicingredientlikelemonjuicecomplementsboththeseflavorgroupings,andpotatoesareseldomanunwelcomepartner.
BEETGREENS:goatcheese,rosemary,mint,orange,walnutsBOKCHOY:garlic,ginger,soysauce,coconutmilk,lime,cilantro,shiitakemushrooms,carrots,pork,chilepeppers,cashewsBROCCOLIRABE:oliveoil,garlic,anchovies,chickpeas,red-pepperflakes,Italiansausage,Parmesan,parsley,tomatopaste,capersCHARD:oliveoil,lemon,garlic,sherryvinegar,red-pepperflakes,PecorinoRomanoCOLLARDAND
TURNIPGREENS:onions,baconorsaltpork,applecider,vinegarKALE:oliveoil,citrus,hazelnuts,balsamicvinegar,ParmesanorPecorinoRomano,pancetta,roastedtomatoes,sweetpeppersMUSTARDGREENS:garlic,soysauce,sesame,ginger,chilepeppers
THERECIPES
SesameGreens
SwissChard,Cabbage,andBrusselsSproutsSalad
FriedRicewithCollardGreens
StuffedCollardGreens
Mustard-GreensPesto
Mustard-GreensCaesarSalad
SkilletPizzawithGreensandEggplant
CaldoVerde
KaleChipswithBalsamicGlaze
Kale-RicottaDip
SwissChardLasagna
BokChoySaladwithCashews
BabyBokChoywithChile,Garlic,andGinger
BroccoliRabeandHamCroqueMonsieurs
KaleandAvocadoSaladwithDates
Chard-TomatoSauté
OrecchiettewithBroccoliRabeandTomatoes
1
2
1
1
SesameGreensThisrecipeshowshowusingminimalseasoningsandasimplemethod(blanching)can
yieldtastygreens.Youcanevenblanchthegreensacoupleofdaysaheadoftime,squeezeouttheexcessliquid,thencoolcompletelyonarimmedbakingsheetbefore
refrigeratinginanairtightcontainer.Chopandtosswithseasoningsjustbeforeserving.
SERVES4
poundSwisschard,kale,mustardgreens,orcollardgreens,stemstrimmedCoarsesalt
tablespoonslow-sodiumsoysauce
tablespoonfreshlimejuice
teaspoontoastedsesameoil
Sesameseeds,forsprinkling
1.Blanchgreensinapotofsaltedboilingwateruntiltender,about15secondsforchard,2minutesfortheothergreens.Drain;whencoolenoughtohandle,squeezeoutexcessliquidandcoarselychopleaves.
2.Whisktogethersoysauce,limejuice,andsesameoilinalargebowl.Seasonwithsalt.Addgreensandtosstocoat.Sprinklewithsesameseedsandserve.
12
8
½
2
2
1
SwissChard,Cabbage,andBrusselsSproutsSalad
Inthisrawsalad,tenderslicesofSwisschard,cabbage,andbrusselssproutsarerubbedwithsugarandsalt,thenchilledtosoftenbeforebeingtossedwiththedressing.
SERVES8
ouncesSwisschard
ouncesbrusselssprouts
headSavoycabbage
teaspoonssugar
teaspoonscoarsesalt
cupwalnuts
3
2
1
½
1
tablespoonssherryvinegar
teaspoonsDijonmustard
teaspoonsoysauce
cupextra-virginoliveoil
ouncePecorinoRomanocheese,shaved
1.Trimandthinlyslicechardandbrusselssprouts;coreandthinlyslicecabbage.Combineallgreensinalargebowl.Rubwithsugarand1teaspoonsaltuntilslightlydamp.Refrigerate30to60minutes.
2.Preheatovento350°F.Toastwalnutsonarimmedbakingsheet,tossingoccasionally,untildarkened,8to10minutes.Transfertoaplate;letcoolandcoarselychop.
3.Inasmallbowl,whisktogethervinegar,mustard,soysauce,andremaining1teaspoonsalt.Slowlywhiskinoil.Tossgreenswiththree-quartersofdressing.Addcheeseandwalnuts;tosstocombine.Refrigerateatleast10minutesandupto1hour.Serve,tossingwithmoredressing,ifdesired.
1
1
1
3
1
1
¼
1
11
FriedRicewithCollardGreensWhilecollardsaremostoftenassociatedwithSoutherncooking,wherethey’rebraised
forhourswithhamhocks,thesegreensaremuchmoreversatilethanthat.Theycanalsostandinforothergreens(suchasbokchoy,kale,andmustardgreens)inmanydishesfromacrosstheglobe.Here,collardsarethehighlightofameatlessThai-stylestir-fry
thatalsodemonstrateshowtheleavessoftenevenafterbriefcooking.
SERVES4
cupjasminerice
cupwater
Coarsesalt
poundcollardgreens,stemstrimmed
tablespoonscoconutoil
tablespoonmincedgarlic
tablespoonmincedpeeledfreshginger
cupslicedshallots
Thaichile,thinlysliced
tablespoonfreshlimejuice,pluslimewedgesforservingteaspoonfishsauce,suchasnamplaornuocmam
Cilantrosprigs,forserving
1.Bringrice,water,and1teaspooncoarsesalttoaboilinasaucepan.Stironce,reduceheat,andsimmer,covered,15minutes.Removefromheatandletsteam(stillcovered)5to10minutesmore.Fluffwithafork.Letcoolcompletelybeforerefrigeratinginanairtightcontainerupto3days.
2.Blanchcollardgreensinapotofsaltedboilingwateruntilbrightgreenandjusttender,about2minutes.Drain;whencoolenoughtohandle,squeezeoutexcessliquidandcoarselychopgreens.
3.Heatoilinalargeskilletovermediumhigh.Addgarlic,ginger,and
shallots,andcook,tossing,1minute.Addrice,chile,andcollards;cook,stirringconstantly,untilheatedthrough.Stirinlimejuiceandfishsauce.Topwithcilantro;serveimmediately,withlimewedges.
TIPThesecrettoanyfriedricerecipeistouseday-oldrice(substituteabout1½cupsforuncookedrice).It’sdrierthanfreshlysteamed,soitfrieseasilywithoutstickingtothewok.
1¼
½
1
1
122
StuffedCollardGreensTheultimatedarkleafygreens,collardshavethemildflavorofspinachandtherobusttextureofkale.Blanchingrendersthegreenstenderandpliable,butstillsturdyenoughforfilling,rolling,andbaking,asinthisupdateonstuffedcabbage.Cookedspeltand
whitebeansgointothestuffing;farroandricecanbesubstitutedforthespelt.
SERVES6
can(28ounces)wholepeeledtomatoeswithjuicecupextra-virginoliveoil
smallonion,finelychopped
Pinchofred-pepperflakes
Coarsesaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper
cupspelt
poundcollardgreens
can(15ounces)whitebeans,drainedandrinsedtablespoonsfinelygratedParmigiano-Reggianocheeseteaspoonschoppedfreshsage
1.Pulsetomatoeswiththeirjuicesinafoodprocessoruntilchopped.Heat2tablespoonsoilinasaucepanovermedium.Addonionandred-pepperflakes;cook,stirringoccasionally,untilonionissoftened,about6minutes.Addtomatoesandbringtoaboil.Reducetoasimmer;cook,stirringoccasionally,untilslightlythickened,about20minutes.Seasonwithsalt.Letsaucecool.
2.Stirspeltintoasaucepanofsaltedboilingwater.Reducetoasteadysimmer;cook,uncovered,untiltender,about40minutes.Drainandletcool.
3.Meanwhile,workinginbatches,blanchcollardgreensinapotofsaltedboilingwateruntilbrightgreenandtender,about3minutes.Removewithtongsanddrain;letcool.Trimoffstemsandthickleaves.Reserve12largeleaves;chopanyremainingleaves.
4.Preheatovento375°F.Coarselymashbeansinabowl.Addcookedspelt,remaining2tablespoonsoil,thecheese,sage,andanychoppedcollards.Stirtocombine.Seasonwithsaltandpepper.
5.Workingwithonecollardgreenatatime,arrange¼cupfillingincenter.Foldstemendoverfilling.Foldinsides.Rollcollardovertoformabundle,overlappingendstoseal.Transfer,seamsidedown,toa9-by-13-inchbakingdish.
6.Spreadsauceevenlyoverstuffedcollards.Coverwithparchment,thenfoil;bakeuntilsauceisbubblingandcollardsaretender,about30minutes.Serveimmediately.
TIPForquickerassembly,preparethetomatosauceandspeltuptotwodaysahead;letcoolandrefrigeratethemseparatelyincoveredcontainers.
2
¼
3
⅓
½2
Mustard-GreensPestoMustardgreenspackasharp,pepperybitethat’sjustrightformakingpesto.Thisout-
of-the-ordinaryversionusesverylittleoilandcheese,gettingitsrichtexturefromroastedgarlic(twofullheads)andtoastedalmonds(inplaceofpinenuts).Beyondthe
pastabowl,tryitoncrostiniorasasauceforgrilledchickenandfish.
MAKES1CUP
headsgarlic
cupalmonds
tablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil
cupfinelygratedPecorinoRomanocheese
largebunchmustardgreens,stemstrimmedandcoarselychopped(about4cups)tablespoonswater
Coarsesaltandfreshlygroundpepper
Coarsesaltandfreshlygroundpepper
1.Preheatovento425°F.Sliceofftopquarterofgarlicheads.Wrapgarlicinparchment,thenfoil,androastuntilclovesareverysoft,50to60minutes.Unwrapandletcoolcompletely.Squeezegarlicfromskins,discardingskins.
2.Meanwhile,toastalmondsonarimmedbakingsheetuntilfragrantanddarkened,tossingoccasionally,about5minutes.Transfertoaplate;letcool,thencoarselychop.
3.Pulsetogethergarlic,almonds,oil,cheese,mustardgreens,andthewaterinafoodprocessoruntilathickpasteforms.Seasonwithsaltandpepper.(Pestocanberefrigeratedinanairtightcontainerupto3days.)
Mustard-GreensCaesarSalad
¼3
2
41
3
Mustardgreensareagoodmatchforanchoviesandgarlic—hereusedintheoilthatflavorsthecroutonsinaheartierCaesarsalad.Letthesaladstandforafewminutes
onceyou’vetossedeverythingtogether.
SERVES4
cupplus3tablespoonsextra-virginoliveoiloil-packedanchovies,chopped
garliccloves,minced
slicesrusticbread,eachslicedinto3or4stripspoundbabymustardgreens
tablespoonsfreshlemonjuice
Coarsesaltandfreshlygroundpepper
Parmigiano-ReggianoorPecorinoRomanocheese
1.Preheatovento400°F.Heat¼cupplus2tablespoonsoilinasmallsaucepanoverlow.Addanchoviesandgarlic,andcook,stirringfrequently,untilanchoviesarebrokenupandgarlicispalegolden,12to15minutes.Pourmixtureintoalargebowl.
2.Meanwhile,toastbreadonarimmedbakingsheetuntilgoldenbrown,8to10minutes.Addtobowlwithanchovyoil,andtosstocoat.
3.Addmustardgreens,lemonjuice,andremainingtablespoonoiltobowl,andtosstocoat.Seasonwithsaltandpepper.Letstandfor5minutesbeforeserving,toppedwithshavedcheese.
2¾2
1
1¼
¼
2
½
1
1
3
1
112
SkilletPizzawithGreensandEggplantLeafygreensmakeexcellentpizzatoppings—theystanduptothehighheatoftheoven
andmarrysowellwithotherItalianingredients,includingeggplantandprovolone.Thispieistrulyunique:Unlikeformostdoughs,hereyoustartbymixingtheyeastandsaltwiththeflourandwater(sothedoughissofterandmoretender).Thenitrisesin
thesamecast-ironskilletitwillbebakedin,fortheultimateinease.
MAKESTWO10-INCHPIZZAS
FORTHEDOUGH
cupsall-purposeflour,plusmorefordustingteaspoonscoarsesalt
teaspoonactivedryyeast
cupswater
cupextra-virginoliveoil
FORTHESAUCE
tablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil
smallonion,finelychopped
Pinchofred-pepperflakes
can(28ounces)dicedtomatoeswithjuice
Coarsesaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper
FORTHETOPPINGS
eggplant(about12ounces),cutlengthwiseinto1-inch-thickslicesCoarsesalt
tablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil
garlicclove,thinlysliced
poundSwisschard,kale,orbeetgreens,toughstemstrimmedandleavescutinto2-inchpiecesouncesprovolonecheese,thinlysliced
Freshoreganoleaves,forserving
1.Makethedough:Stirtogetherflour,salt,yeast,andthewaterinalarge
bowluntildoughisverysticky.Coverwithplasticwrap;letstand12to18hoursatroomtemperature.
2.Sprinkledoughwithflour.Divideinhalf.Divideoilbetweentwo10-inchovenproofnonstickskillets(preferablycastiron).Swirltocoat.Adddoughtoeachskillet;turntocoatwithoil.Gentlyflattendoughwithyourhand.Cover;letriseinawarmspotuntildoubledinbulk,about2hours.
3.Makethesauce:Heatoilinapotovermedium.Cookonionandred-pepperflakes,stirringoccasionally,untilonionissoftened,6to8minutes.Addtomatoesandjuices.Bringtoaboil,thenreduceheatandsimmer,stirringoccasionally,about20minutes.Letcoolslightly.Puréesauceinablender,workinginbatches(donotfilljarmorethanhalfway).Seasonwithsaltandblackpepper.
4.Makethetoppings:Preheatovento400°F.Placeeggplantinacolander;seasonwithsalt.Letstand30minutes.
5.Rinseeggplant,drain,andpatdry.Arrangeonarimmedbakingsheet;brushwith2tablespoonsoil.Roast,turningonce,untilverytender,about25minutes.Letcoolslightly,thencutinto½-inchpieces.
6.Heatremainingtablespoonoilinalargeskilletovermedium.Cookgarlic,stirring,untilfragrant,about30seconds.Addchardinbatcheswith1to2tablespoonswater.Cook,stirring,untiljustwilted,about5minutes.Seasonwithsalt.Letcool.
7.Preheatovento475°F,withrackinlowerthird.Foreachpizza,pressdoughuntilittouchesedgeofskillet.Ladle¾cupsauceoverdough,leavinga½-inchborder.Topwith3ouncescheese.Add½cupeachchardandeggplant.Topwithanother3ouncescheese.Bakeuntilcrustisgoldenbrown,about18minutes.Servetoppedwithoregano.
¼1
4
2½8
812
CaldoVerdeCaldoverde,or“greenbroth,”isaplentifulstewofkale,potatoes,andsausage;itis
widelyconsideredthenationaldishofPortugal.Thesoupbaseistraditionallypuréed,ashere,toawonderfullythickconsistency(thankstothepotatoes),thenkaleisstirred
inandsimmeredjustuntiltender.
SERVES8TO10
cupextra-virginoliveoil,plusmorefordrizzlinglargeonion,finelychopped
garliccloves,minced
poundsrussetpotatoes(about5medium),peeledandcutinto1-inchcubescupslow-sodiumchickenbroth
ouncesfirmchorizoorlinguiça,halvedlengthwiseounceskale,toughstemstrimmedandleavesthinlyslicedCoarsesaltandfreshlygroundpepper
1.Heatoilinalargepotovermediumhigh.Addonionandgarlic,andcook,stirringoccasionally,untilsoftened,about4minutes.Addpotatoesandchickenbroth.Bringtoaboil,thenreduceheatandsimmeruntilpotatoesaresoft,about15minutes.
2.Meanwhile,heatamediumskilletovermedium.Addchorizoandcookuntilgoldenbrown,3to4minutesperside.Transfertoacuttingboard.Whencoolenoughtohandle,thinlyslicecrosswise.
3.Puréesoupwithanimmersionblenderorinaregularblender(workinbatches;donotfilljarmorethanhalfway).Returntopotandstirinkale;simmer5minutes.Seasonwithsaltandpeppertotaste.Servesoupdrizzledwithoilandtoppedwithchorizo.
TIPYouwantahardygreenthatcanholditsowninthistypeofsoup;trycollardsinplaceofkale.Chorizoisatraditionalchoice,thoughlinguiçais
usedaswell.
2¼
¼
2
2
KaleChipswithBalsamicGlazeKaleturnscrispintheoven,andwhenstoredairtight,staysthatwayfordays.Tuscan(orLacinato)kaleisthebestoptionformakingchips;theleavesareflatterandheartier
thancurlykale.Thesimplyseasonedleavesarejustfineassnacksontheirown,butevenbetterservedwithabalsamicdippingglaze.
SERVES8
cupsbalsamicvinegar
teaspoonhoney(optional)
Pinchofcoarsesalt
poundsTuscankale,toughstemstrimmed
tablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil
Flakyseasalt,suchasMaldon,forsprinkling
1.Bringvinegartoaboilinasmallheavysaucepan;reducetoasimmer,andcookuntilthickenedandsyrupy,about15minutes.Removefromheat;stirinhoney,ifdesired,andcoarsesalt.Letcoolcompletely;glazewillthickenslightlyasitcools.(Glazecanberefrigeratedinanairtightcontainerupto1week;bringtoroomtemperaturebeforeserving.)2.Meanwhile,preheatovento375°F.Tosskalewithoil,anddividebetweentwolargerimmedbakingsheets.Spreadinasinglelayerandbake,tossingkaleandrotatingsheetshalfwaythrough,untilcrisp,15to20minutes.Letcoolcompletelyonsheets.Sprinklewithseasalt,tosstocoat,andservewithbalsamicglaze.
2
11
Kale-RicottaDipHere’sahealthierupdateoncreamyspinachdip:Sautéthekaleuntilwilted,thenmixwithricottaandbakeuntilgoldenbrown.Ricottahasallthedeliciousnessofthesour
creamusedinoriginalversions,andisabetterflavorpartnerforkale.
SERVES4TO6
tablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil
smallbunchkale,toughstemstrimmedandleavescoarselychopped(about1cup)cupfreshricottacheese
Coarsesaltandfreshlygroundpepper
Crackersorcrostini,forserving
1.Preheatovento425°F.Heatoilinalargeskilletovermediumhigh.
Addkaleandcook,tossingfrequently,untilwilted,about5minutes.Transfertoaplateandletcool.
2.Mixricottawithkaleinashallowbakingdish,andseasonwithsaltandpepper.Bakeuntilgoldenbrownontopandbubbling,about12minutes.Letcoolslightlybeforeserving,withcrackers.
TIPOthergreensworkwellhere,too:spinach,mustardgreens,Swisschard,collards,beetgreens,andturnipgreenseachcontributetheirdistinctiveflavor,allwithslightlydifferentresults.
3
1
1
4
½
18
1
SwissChardLasagnaItusedtobethatspinachwasthegreenofchoicewhenmakingameat-freelasagna.ButSwisschard(orkale)actuallymakesmoresense;itdoesn’tlosenearlyasmuchvolume
asspinachdoesduringcooking,andyougetthecrunchofthestemsalongwiththetendernessoftheleaves.Otherthanthat,thisrecipeisprettytraditional,withitssimple
tomatosauceandlayersofmozzarellaandnoodles.
SERVES4
tablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil
mediumonion,coarselychopped
poundSwisschard,stemsandleavesseparated,boththinlyslicedCoarsesalt
garliccloves,minced
teaspoonred-pepperflakes
can(28ounces)wholepeeledplumtomatoeswithjuicesno-boillasagnanoodles(9ounces)
poundwhole-milkmozzarella,shredded(about4cups)1.Preheatovento375°F.Heatalargeskilletovermediumhigh.Add2tablespoonsoil,theonion,andchardstems.Cook,stirringoccasionally,untilonionissoftened,about4minutes.Stirinchardleaves,seasonwithsalt,andcookuntiltender,about2minutes.Transfertoaplate.
2.Wipeskillet;returntomedium-highheat.Addremainingtablespoonoil,thegarlic,andred-pepperflakes.Cook,stirring,untilfragrant,about30seconds.Addtomatoeswiththeirjuicesandsimmer,breakingthemintopieces,untilliquidisthickened,about3minutes.Seasonwithsalt.
3.Spread½cuptomatosauceinbottomofan8-inchsquarebakingdish.Topwithtwolasagnanoodles,¾cupsauce,one-thirdofchardmixture,and1cupcheese.Repeatlayeringtwicemore.Topwithremainingnoodles,sauce,andcheese.Looselycoverwithparchment,thenfoil.Bake30minutes.Uncoverandbakeuntilbubbly,about15minutesmore.Letcool20minutes,thensliceandserve.
11
1
¾
1½2
BokChoySaladwithCashewsBokchoydeliverscrunchandsweetnessinthisvibrantslaw,andmakesanexcellent
stand-inforcabbage.Tryitwithgrilledporkchops,chicken,orsteak.
SERVES4
tablespoonplus1teaspoonricevinegar(unseasoned)tablespoonlow-sodiumsoysauce
teaspoontoastedsesameoil
teaspoonsugar
poundsbokchoy,thinlysliced(about5cups)tablespoonschoppedrawcashews
Whisktogethervinegar,soysauce,sesameoil,andsugarinalargebowl.Addbokchoyandtosstocoat.Topwithcashewsandserve.
2
11
11
3
BabyBokChoywithChile,Garlic,andGinger
Babybokchoyisprizedforitssmallsize(meaningheadscanbecookedwholeorhalved,ashere)andtenderleaves.Thisrecipecanalsobemadewithfull-sizebokchoy
slicedlengthwiseintobite-sizepieces,whichwillsteaminthesameamountoftime.
SERVES4
teaspoonssaffloweroil
redorgreenjalapeñochile,thinlysliced(removeribsandseedsforlessheat)garlicclove,thinlysliced
piece(1inch)freshginger,peeledandthinlyslicedpoundbabybokchoy,halvedlengthwise
tablespoonswater
Coarsesalt
Coarsesalt
Heatoilinalargeskilletovermediumhigh.Cookjalapeño,garlic,andginger,stirringfrequently,untilsoftened,about1minute.Addbokchoyandthewater;coverandcookuntiltender,7to8minutes.Uncoverandcookuntilanyremainingliquidevaporates.Seasonwithsaltandserve.
2
½
2
¾
¼
1
1
1
2
8
1
8
8
¼
BroccoliRabeandHamCroqueMonsieurs
Here’sawonderfulwaytoperkupaho-humgrilledhamandcheese:Layeronbroccolirabe.Afterall,thevegetablepairswellwithpork.Italsomakesasimplesandwichmoreofasatisfyingmeal-in-onewhentoppedwithbéchamel,asacroquemonsieur.Startbyblanchingthebroccolirabe,thensautéitwithgarlicforflavorandtowiltthegreens.
SERVES4
FORTHEBÉCHAMEL
tablespoonsunsaltedbutter
shallot,finelydiced
tablespoonsall-purposeflour
cupwholemilk
cupfinelygratedParmigiano-ReggianocheeseCoarsesaltandfreshlygroundpepper
FORTHESANDWICHES
poundbroccolirabe,trimmed
Coarsesalt
tablespoonextra-virginoliveoil
garlicclove,thinlysliced
tablespoonsplus2teaspoonsfigjam
slicesbest-qualitywhitebread
tablespoonplus1teaspoonDijonmustard
ouncesfontinacheese,thinlysliced
ouncesslicedham
cupgratedGruyèrecheese
1.Makethebéchamel:Meltbutterinasaucepanovermediumheat.Addshallot;cook,stirringoccasionally,untiltender,about2minutes.Add
flour,andwhiskuntilmixturebubblesslightly,about1minute.Graduallyaddinmilk,andcook,stirringoccasionally,untilthickened,5minutes.Removefromheat,addParmesan,andseasonwithsaltandpepper.
2.Meanwhile,makethesandwiches:Preheatovento450°F.Workinginbatches,blanchbroccolirabeinapotofsaltedboilingwateruntiljusttender,about2minutes.Drain.
3.Heatoilinalargeskilletovermedium.Addgarlic;cook,stirring,30seconds.Addbroccolirabe;cook,stirring,2minutes.Seasonwithsalt.Letcoolslightly,thenfinelychopgarlicandbroccolirabe.
4.Foreachsandwich,spread2teaspoonsjamononebreadsliceand1teaspoonmustardonanother.Layeroneslicewithfontinacheese,broccolirabe,andham,dividingevenly.Closesandwichandplaceonarimmedbakingsheet;topwith2tablespoonsbéchamel.SprinkleGruyèreevenlyovertops.
5.Bakeuntilbrownedandbubbling,about10minutes.Serveimmediately.
TIPFigjamaddssweetness,butyoucouldforgothatandjustuseDijonmustard.Youcanalsoskipthebéchamel:Assemblethesandwiches,brushbothsideswithsoftenedbutter,thencookinahotcast-ironskilletovermediumheatuntilgoldenbrown,about3minutesperside.
¼
1
⅓
3
22
8
KaleandAvocadoSaladwithDatesThissaladhasitall:Thewinningbuttery-meets-crispcombinationofavocadoandkale,
withpinenuts,Parmesan,anddatesalladdingtheirownnotestothedish.Makethesaladuptoanhourbeforeserving;thetextureofthekaleactuallyimproveswithtime.
SERVES8
cuppinenuts
bunchbabyTuscankale
cupextra-virginoliveoil
tablespoonsfreshlemonjuice
avocados,halved,pitted,peeled,andcutinto¼-inchslicesouncesParmigiano-Reggianocheese,shaved
largeor10mediumdrieddates,pittedandslicedCoarsesaltandfreshlygroundpepper
1.Toastpinenutsinasmalldryskilletovermediumheatuntilgolden,tossingfrequently,about3minutes.
2.Inalargebowl,tosstogetherkale,pinenuts,oil,andlemonjuice.Addavocados,cheese,anddates,andtossgentlytocombine.Seasonwithsaltandpepper,andserve.
1
32
1
2
¼
Chard-TomatoSautéInFranceandItaly,you’lloftenfindchardsautéedwithextra-virginoliveoiland
garlic;we’vebuiltonthattraditionbyaddingtomato,capers,andfreshbasil,alongwithParmesangratedoverthetop.
SERVES4
poundSwisschard,preferablyRubyRed,stemstrimmedandleaveschoppedCoarsesaltandfreshlygroundpepper
tablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil,plusmoregarliccloves,thinlysliced
largetomato,chopped
tablespoonscapers,drainedandrinsed
cupslicedfreshbasil,plussmallleavesforservingParmigiano-Reggianocheese,forserving
1.Blanchchardinapotofsaltedboilingwateruntilbrightgreenandjusttender,about15seconds.Drain;whencoolenoughtohandle,squeezeoutexcessliquidandcoarselychopgreens.
2.Heatoilinalargeskilletovermediumhigh.Addgarlic,tomato,andcapers;cook,stirringconstantly,2minutes.Addchardandslicedbasil;cook,tossing,untilheatedthrough.Seasonwithsaltandpepper.Drizzlewithmoreoil,topwithwholebasilleavesandfinelygratedParmesan,andserve.
¼1½
4
6
21
¼
1
1
OrecchiettewithBroccoliRabeandTomatoesForthispastadish,broccoli
rabeandorecchiettearecookedtogetherinonepot.Youcouldstopthere,and
simplyfinishwithadrizzleofoliveoilandsomefinelygratedPecorinoRomano,butit’sexceptionallygoodtossedwithanall-starItaliansauceofanchovies,garlic,capers,andtomatoes,andtoppedwith
goldentoastedbreadcrumbs.SERVES6
cupand3tablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil,plusmorefordrizzlingcupsplainfreshbreadcrumbs
Coarsesalt
anchovyfillets,rinsedandpatteddry
garliccloves,thinlysliced
tablespoonscapers,preferablysalt-packed,rinsed,drained,andchoppedpoundcherrytomatoes,halved
teaspoonred-pepperflakes
poundorecchiette
poundbroccolirabe,trimmedandcutinto2-inchpieces1.Heat3tablespoonsoilinalargesautépanovermedium.Addbreadcrumbsandseasonwithsalt.Cook,stirringfrequently,untilcrispandgolden,about5minutes.Transferbreadcrumbstoaplate.
2.Heat2tablespoonsoilinpanovermedium.Addanchoviesandstir
untiltheydissolveintooil,about1minute.Addgarlicandcapers,andcook,stirring,untilgarlicisgolden,2to3minutes.Addtomatoes,red-pepperflakes,andremaining2tablespoonsoil.Raiseheattomediumhigh,andcook,stirringoccasionally,untiltomatoesbegintobreakdown,about5minutes.
3.Meanwhile,cookpastainalargepotofsaltedboilingwateruntilpastaisaldente,accordingtopackageinstructions,addingbroccolirabe2minutesbeforeendofpastacookingtime.Reserve¼cuppastawater,anddrainpastaandbroccolirabe.
4.Addpasta,broccolirabe,andreservedpastawatertotomatomixtureinpan.Cookovermedium-highheat,stirringgently,untilcombinedandliquidthickensslightly,about2minutes.Transfertoaservingdish,topwithbreadcrumbs,andserveimmediately.
ASPARAGUS
CELERY
FENNEL
KOHLRABI
RHUBARB
STALKS&STEMS
Stalks and stems are the “interstate highways” of thevegetable world: botanical thoroughfares for the passage ofwater, sugars, and nutrients between the plant’s roots downbelow and its leaves above. But the stalks and stems ofasparagus, celery, rhubarb, andother suchedibleplantparts—including the bulb-like stems of fennel and kohlrabi—havetransformedtherouteintoascenicbyway—andoneofthe plants’ greatest assets. Indeed, celery stalks were onceconsidered so elegant that they were displayed, like callalilies,incrystalvases.
Foracook,understandingtheroleofstalksandstemsinthelifeofaplantcanhelpwithselecting,preparing,andcookingthem. Ripeness—the age of a vegetable when harvested—matters with all fruits and vegetables. But with stalks andstems, it’s of foremost importance, surpassing even freshness (in otherwords, how recently it was harvested). Picked young, just as they arereachingtowardthesky,stalkssuchasasparagus,celery,andrhubarbwillbecrisp,lithe,andtender.Butallowafewdaysorweekstopass,andtheybeginto turnstringy,evenwoody,becausenaturehasdesignedthemtostiffenintoreliablesupportstructuresforthegrowingplant.Techniqueslikeparing away the celery and fennel “strings,” andpeeling away theouterlayerofrhubarborkohlrabicanalleviatethisproblem.Betteryet,hittheroadyourself,insearchoftheyoungestonesyourfarmers’markethastooffer.
THEBASICS
SEASONALITYEmergingfromthejust-thawedearth,asparagusisaharbingerofspring,anditsseasonisbrief.Afewweekslater,rhubarbbeginstoreachskyward;it’sbestjustaslatespringcrossesintosummer.Lookforkohlrabiinearlysummerifyoulikeitraw;byJuly,itsturnipynaturebeginstoassertitself.Fennellikescoolweather,andisavailablefromfallintoveryearlyspring.Celerywon’ttolerateextremesofheatorcold,butitisavailableyear-roundthankstocultivationinbothnorthernandsouthernstates.
BUYINGDoessizematter?Whenitcomestosomestalks,theanswerisyes,butforothers,notsomuch.Contrarytowhatmanypeoplethink,thinnerasparagusspearsarenotyounger,moretenderversionsofthicker-spearedasparagus.Instead,long,thickspearswithtightlyclosedheadsareusuallythebesttastingandhavethebesttexture.Incontrast,thoseshorter,thinnerinnercelerystalksaremoretenderthantheouterones.Butthelengthandthicknessofarhubarbspear,ortheplumpnessofafennelbulb,arenoindicationsofquality.Instead,tryinspectingthecutendsofthesevegetables.Withobservation,youmaybeabletodeterminetheirmaturity—thoseofyoungerplantswillhaveauniform,smooth,almostcreamyappearance;olderoneswilllookcoarseandwoody.However,theonlysurewaytodeterminetheageofstalkandstemvegetablesistobuytheminseasonatagreenmarket,fromafarmerwhogrewthemherself.Kohlrabiisoneexception:Lookforbulbsnolargerthanatennisballthatdonotappearcrackedorovergrown;theleavesshouldbeunblemished.
NOTABLEVARIETIESAsparagus:Green,purple,orwhite—theyareallthesamevarietiesbutwithdifferenttastesandtextures.Thehueofanypurpleasparagus,suchasPurplePassion,isonlyskindeepandthestalkswillturngreenwhencooked,soenjoyitraw;
itismoretenderandsweeter-tastingthangreen.White,ontheotherhand,stayscreamywhitewhencooked,thankstobeingdeprivedofsunlightduringgrowingtoavoiditsturninggreen;assuch,ithasamildertaste(andmuchtougherskins).
Celery:Mostceleryisofthefamiliargreenish-whitetype;thevarietiesatfarmers’marketstendtohavemorevibrantleavesattached(and,often,stalksthataremoretender),allthebetterforusinginsaladsandtogarnishsoups.Celeryalsocomesinred(oftencalled“RedGiant”);thestalksaresturdier,evenwhencooked,andhaveamorerobustflavor,makingthemidealforsimmeringinsoupsandstews.
Fennel:Thefamiliartypeoffennel(finocchio)withthewhitebulbiscalledFlorence(orFlorentine)fennel;youcanalsofinditlabeled“sweetanise”orjust“anise.”Wildfennel(finochietto)looksnothinglikethedomesticatedvariety;insteadofabulbithasaroot,anditisharvestedforthefeatheryfronds(whichareaddedtosoupsandstewsandeggdishes)andtheseeds(usedinpicklingandmakingsausages).Wildfennelhasamoreintenselicoriceflavorthandomesticatedfennel.Fennelpollen,thegoldendustextractedfromflowersonboltedplants,hasalsobecomemorecommon;itisprizedforhavingthemostintense(concentrated)licoricetaste,withhintsofcitrus,too.Itcanbeusedinanydishwhereyouwouldusethebulborwildfennelfrondsandseeds,eitheraddedwhilecookingorasagarnish.
Kohlrabi:Thisknobbyvegetablemaybepinkishpurple(oftencalled“violet”or“red”)orgreenish(called“white”);bothhavewhitefleshandareidenticalintaste.
Rhubarb:Itscolorsrangefromdeepcrimsontogreen;thecolordoesnotaffectflavor.(Here’satipforhelpingrhubarbtakeonarosierhue:Addafewslicesofredbeettotheliquidwhenpoachingorstewing.)STORING
Asparaguscanbestoredlikefreshflowers:Sliceverticallyintothespears’endsandstandthemuprightinwater,withthetipslightlycoveredwithadamppapertowel.Celery,fennel,andrhubarblikeaslightlymoist,chillyenvironment;wrapthemlooselyinaslightlydamppapertowelandplacetheminaplasticbagintherefrigeratorforuptothreeorfourdays.Thekohlrabistems(orbulbs)willkeepforseveralweeksintherefrigerator.Ifyouhaveanabundanceofrhubarb,theeasiestwaytostoreitsoyoucanenjoyrhubarbwhenit’soutofseasonistofreezeit:Cutthestalksinto1-inchpieces,laythemflatonabakingsheet,andfreezeuntilfirm,atleast2hours.Thentransfertosealableplasticbags,andstoreinthefreezeruptoayear.
PREPPING
PREPPINGYou’llknowhowtoprepstalksthemomentyoustartworkingwiththem;theyhavebuilt-inguidelines.Forexample,ifyoucuthalfwaythroughanouterstalkofceleryorfennelandpulldownward,dotoughstringspullaway?Ifso,parethemoff.Next,inspectthecutend:Isithollowandfibrous?Ifso,discardtheouterstalks.Asparagus,meanwhile,willnaturallybreakwherethetoughbottomendmeetsthemoretenderupperstalk;bendgentlytofeelforthejunction,thensnapoffanddiscardthebottomportion.Youcanuseaparingknifetopeelawaythesilkyouterskinofkohlrabi(youngeroneswon’tneedpeeling),rhubarb,andasparagus,ifnecessary;whiteasparagusalwaysneedspeeling.
COOKINGLongspearsofdelicate,youngasparagusaresucculentinspringtime,andthetenderinnerstalksofceleryandfennelaredelightfultoeatfromtiptotoe.Butgiventhefibrousnatureofthesevegetables’cellstructures,cuttingthemcrosswiseisoftenthebestsolution,especiallyforolderones.Slicefirmstalksonthebiasintoshortchunksorevenpaper-thinslicestoeliminatestringiness.Thusprepared,fennel,celery,kohlrabi,andevenasparagusarewonderfulrawinsalads.Fennelandasparagusalsotakewelltogrillingandroasting.Tartrhubarb,too,islovelyroastedwithsugar,andwhenstewedforjustafewminutes,itmeltsintoasilkycompote:Slice¼inchthick,combineinasaucepanwithsugarorhoney,freshginger,andjustenoughwatertocoverthebottomofthepan.Covertightly,andcook7to10minutes,oruntilthepiecesfallapart.ServeoverGreekyogurt,icecream,orwaffles.
HOWTOSERVERAW(Forasparagus,celery,fennel,kohlrabi)Trimtoughendsofasparagusandpeelintoribbonswithavegetablepeeler,orcutthinlyonthebias;thinlyslicecelery,fennel,andkohlrabi(preferablyonamandoline)orcutfennelandkohlrabiintomatchsticks.Tosswithextra-virginoliveoilandlemonjuice(orangeisalsonicewithfennel)orred-winevinegar,andseasonwithsaltandpepper.Addapples,carrots,radishes,scallions,orredonion,cutintosimilar-sizepiecesasthestalk,ifdesired.TopwithshavedorgratedParmesanorPecorinoRomano.
HOWTOSTEAM(Forasparagus,celery,fennel,kohlrabi)Fillapotwithenoughwatertocomejustunderasteamerinsert;bringtoasimmer.
Fillapotwithenoughwatertocomejustunderasteamerinsert;bringtoasimmer.Snapofftoughendsofasparagus;sliceceleryandfennel½inchthick;cutkohlrabiinto½-inchcubes.Placeinsteamerbasket,cover,andcookuntiljusttender,5to10minutes(lessforverythinasparagusstalks).Tosswithextra-virginoliveoil,lemonjuiceand/orzest,freshherbs(parsley,mint,orbasil),andseasonwithsaltandpepper.
HOWTOBRAISE(Forasparagus,celery,fennel)Trimtoughendsofasparagusandtipsofcelerystalks,leavingheadsintact;trimstemsfromfennelandcutbulbsintohalvesorquarterslengthwise.(Makesureasparagusspearscanallfitinpan.)Sautéinbutteroroliveoilovermedium-highheatuntilbrownedinspots,turningonce,2to3minutes.Seasonwithsaltandpepper,andaddenoughliquid(chickenorvegetablebroth,ororangejuiceand/orwater)tocover.Simmer,covered,untilverytender,10to12minutes;addmorewaterifpanbecomestoodry.Topwithgratedlemonororangezest(andchoppedfennelfrondsforfennel),freshordriedherbs,adrizzlemoreoliveoil,andpepper.
HOWTOROAST(Forasparagus,fennel,kohlrabi,rhubarb)Leaveasparagusorrhubarbwhole,orcutonthebiasinto1-inchpieces;cutfennelinto½-inchwedges;andcutkohlrabiinto¼-inchslices.Tosswitholiveoiljusttocoat.Seasonwithsaltandpepper.(Tossrhubarbinsteadwithabitofsugarorhoney.)Spreadonabakingsheet,androastat425°Funtilbrowninginspots,turningvegetableshalfwaythrough,about15minutes.
HOWTOGRILL(Forasparagusandfennel)Trimtoughendsfromasparagus;trimfennelandhalveorquarterbulb.Tosswitholiveoil,salt,andpepper.Togrillskinnierstalks,threadthemonskewers.Placeonamedium-hotgrill,andcookuntilbeginningtochar,turningfrequently,5to7minutes.Sprinklewithfreshherbsandgratedsharpcheese.
HOWTOBAKECHIPS(Forkohlrabi)Tossverythinlyslicedkohlrabiwitholiveoil,salt,andpepper,andspreadevenlyonabakingsheetlinedwithanonstickmat.Bakeat250°Funtilcrispandgolden,rotatingsheetonce,35minutesto1hour.Transfertopapertowelstodrain,andsprinklewithsalt.
sprinklewithsalt.
FLAVORPAIRINGSWhattopairwithstalksandstems?Italldepends.Celery,partoftheessentialflavorbasesofmanycuisines,includingmirepoixinFrance(celery,onion,carrot),soffritoinItaly(celery,onion,carrot,andparsley),andtheCajun“HolyTrinity”(celery,onion,andgreenpepper),goeswithalmosteverything.Anditsnaturalsaltinessmakesitanessentialpartofmanysoupsandstews.Rhubarb,ontheotherhand,hassuchauniqueandassertiveflavorthatitcanclashwithotheringredients.Kohlrabibringsafresh,delicateflavor,likethatoftenderbroccolistems,torawsalads.Likefennelandasparagus,itcomestolifewithatouchofacidityfromcitrusormildvinegar.
ASPARAGUS:lemon,Parmesan,garlic,ginger,sesame,eggs,cream,hamCELERY:dill,tarragon,mayonnaise,bluecheese,curry,onions,carrots,parsleyFENNEL:orange,lemon,Parmesan,almonds,olives,parsley,thyme,tomatoesKOHLRABI:lemon,mustard,Swisscheese,dill,creamRHUBARB:strawberries,ginger,orange,raspberries,mint,cinnamon,crèmefraîche
THERECIPES
SteamedAsparagus,ThreeWays
Egg,Asparagus,andMushroomStir-Fry
AsparagusandPotatoFlatbread
RhubarbChutneywithPorkRoast
Asparagus,Artichoke,andFarroSalad
FennelandSmokedSalmonSalad
ClamPanRoastwithFennelandSausage
Celery,Cilantro,andAlmondSalad
BraisedCelery
2
SteamedAsparagus,ThreeWaysNothingsaysspringlikethefirstappearanceoflocalasparagus,whichneedsonlybriefcooking(ornoneatall)tobeatitsbest.Weespeciallylikeitwhensimplysteamed,withlittleembellishmentotherthanafewclassicflavorpairings,liketheonesbelow.Choose
asparagusthatisuniforminsizeforevencooking.
SERVES6
bunchesasparagus(2pounds),trimmedCoarsesalt
Placeasparagusinasteamerinsertsetinapotfilledwith1inchofwater.Coverandbringtoaboil.Steamuntiltender,2to6minutes(dependingonthickness).Removefromheatandseasonwithsalt.Topasdesired.
1
WITHMINTBUTTER
Melt1stickunsaltedbutterinasmallsaucepanovermediumheatwith½cuppackedfinelychoppedmintleaves,andseasonwithcoarsesaltandfreshlygroundpepper.Heatuntiljustbubblingaroundedges.Drizzlemintbutteroverasparagus,andtossgentlytocoat.Garnishwithwholemintleaves.
2
WITHEGGSMIMOSA
Inasmallbowl,whisktogether1tablespoonwhite-winevinegarand2teaspoonsDijonmustard,thenseasonwithcoarsesaltandfreshlygroundpepper.Add3tablespoonsextra-virginoliveoilinaslow,steadystream,
whiskinguntilcombined.Pass1largepeeledhard-cookedeggthroughafine-meshedsieveintoanotherbowl.Spoonvinaigretteoverasparagus,andtopwithsievedegg.
3
WITHLEMONAÏOLI
Chop2garlicclovesonacuttingboard,andaddapinchofcoarsesalt.Mashintoapastewithknife’sflatside(orinamortarandpestle).Whisk2largeeggyolkswith½teaspoonsaltinabowl.Slowlyadd1tablespooneachfreshlemonjuiceandwater,andwhiskuntilthoroughlyblended.Add1¾cupsextra-virginoliveoilinaslow,steadystream,whiskinguntilcombined.Stiringarlicmixture.Serveasadipforsteamedasparagus.(Aïolicanberefrigerated,covered,upto2days.Ifaïoliseparates,whisk1eggyolkwith1tablespoontepidwaterinabowl;
graduallywhiskintoaïoliuntilcombined,thenwhiskin¼cupoil.)TIPAnasparagussteamerallowsthespearstostandupright,sothetougherpartscookfasterthanthetips,butyoucanusearegularsteamerinsertandapot;youmayneedtotrimthespearstofitinthebasket,sotheycanlayflat.
6
2
21112612
3
Egg,Asparagus,andMushroomStir-FryTheremaybenobetterpartnerforasparagusthanegg—youwilloftenfindasparagusinomeletsandfrittatas,ineggsbenedict(inplaceofspinach),toppedwithmimosaora
poachedegg,andinquichesandcustards.Thiseggandasparagusstir-fryincludesgarlicandscallions,aswellaswoody,flavorfuloystermushrooms.
SERVES4
largeeggs,roomtemperature
Coarsesaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper
tablespoonssaffloweroil
tablespoonsmincedpeeledfreshginger(froma2-inchpiece)tablespoonmincedgarlic(from2to3cloves)bunchscallions,trimmedandthinlyslicedonthebiasouncesasparagus,trimmedandslicedonthebiasinto3-inchpiecesouncesoystermushrooms,separatedintoindividualcaps,largecapshalvedlengthwisehotredchilepepper,verythinlyslicedintoroundstablespoonslow-sodiumsoysauce
tablespoonsfreshlimejuice(from2to3limes)1.Whiskeggswith½teaspoonsalt.Heatalargenonstickskilletovermediumhigh.Swirlin1tablespoonoil.Addeggsandcook,undisturbed,untilbottomandedgesareset,about30seconds.Liftupedgesofeggswithaheatproofflexiblespatula,swirlingandtiltingpansorunnyeggsslideunderneath.Cookuntileggsaregoldeninplacesalongthebottombutstillverywetontop,about1minutemore.Gentlyslideeggsontoacuttingboard.Rollthemuplikeacigarandslicecrosswiseinto½-inch-thickstrips.
2.Wipeskilletclean;returntohighheatwithremaining1tablespoonoil.Whenoilshimmers,addginger,garlic,scallions,asparagus,andmushrooms.Cook,stirringfrequently,untilvegetablesaretenderandgoldenbrowninplaces,4to5minutes.Stirinchileandseasonwithblackpepper;cook30seconds.Addsoysauce,limejuice,andeggstripstoskillet,tossingtoevenlycoat.Serveimmediately.
¼
1
1
2¾1
¼
12
14
AsparagusandPotatoFlatbreadOtherthanservingshavedasparagusrawinasalad,weliketouseitasatoppingfor
flatbread,alongwiththinlyslicedpotatoandcrumbledgoatcheese.(ThedishmakesanicestarterforEasterdinner.)Plumpstalksofasparagusyieldtheoptimalnumberof
shavings.
MAKES2FLATBREADS
FORTHEDOUGH
teaspoonsugar
envelope(¼ounce)activedryyeast
cupwarmwater(about110°F)
cupsunbleachedall-purposeflour,plusmorefordustingteaspooncoarsesalt
cupextra-virginoliveoil,plusmoreforbowlFinecornmeal,fordusting
FORTHETOPPINGS
YukonGoldpotato,peeledandverythinlyslicedtablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil
Coarsesaltandgroundpepper
bunchasparagus(1pound),trimmedandshavedwithavegetablepeelerouncesfreshgoatcheese,crumbled(1cup)1.Makethedough:Inasmallbowl,sprinklesugarandyeastoverthewarmwater;stirwithaforkuntilyeastandsugardissolve.Letstanduntilfoamy,about5minutes.Inafoodprocessor,pulsetogetherflourandsalttocombine.Addyeastmixtureand2tablespoonsoil;pulseuntilmixturecomestogetherbutisstillslightlytacky.Doughshouldpullawaycleanlyfromyourfingersafterit’ssqueezed.Turnoutdoughontoalightlyflouredworksurface;kneadfourorfivetimes,untilasmoothballforms.Placeinalightlyoiledbowl,smoothsideup.Coverwithplasticwrap;letriseinawarmplaceuntildoubledinbulk,about40minutes.
2.Punchdowndough.Folddoughbackontoitselffourorfivetimes,thenturnsmoothsideup.Replaceplasticwrap;letdoughriseagaininawarmplaceuntildoubledinbulk,30to40minutes.
3.Preheatovento500°F,withracksinmiddleandlowerthirds.Punchdowndough;turnoutontoalightlyflouredworksurface.Usingabenchscraperorknife,dividedoughintotwopieces.Kneadeachfourorfive
times,thenformtwosmoothballs.Returnoneballtooiledbowl;coverwithplasticwrap.Patremainingballintoaflatteneddisk;coverwithwrap;letrest5minutes.Usingyourhandsorarollingpin,pressorrolloutdoughballsintotwo6-by-16-inchovals,workingfromcenteroutward.Transfertotwoparchment-linedbakingsheets.Brusheachwith1tablespoonoil.
4.Makethetoppings:Inabowl,tosspotatowith2teaspoonsoilandseasonwithsaltandpepper.Arrangeslicesondough,leavinga¼-inchborder.Bakeuntiledgesofcrustsaregoldenandpotatoisbeginningtocrisparoundedges,about12minutes,rotatinghalfwaythrough.Reduceheatto450°F.Tossasparaguswith2teaspoonsoil;seasonwithsaltandpepper.Topflatbreadwithasparagus;bakeuntilasparagusiscrisp-tender,about5minutes.Topwithcheese;bakeuntilcheeseiswarmedthrough,about3minutesmore.Drizzleeachflatbreadwith1teaspoonoil,thencutintowedges.
½¼
1
½¼
1
12
1
½2
RhubarbChutneywithPorkRoastPiesandpastriesarenottheonlywaystoenjoyrhubarb.Thetartstalksalsowork
wondersasanaccompanimenttosavoryfoods.They’reexcellentpickled,orcookedinachutney,herewithbrownsugar,orangezest,andfreshginger,pluscelery(another
stalk).Trythechutneyasatoasttoppingalongwithslicedsharpcheese.
SERVES6
FORTHECHUTNEY
redonion,cutinto¼-inch-thickroundscupgoldenraisins
teaspoonfinelygratedpeeledfreshgingerFinelygratedzestof1orange
cupdrywhitewine,suchasSauvignonBlanccupwhite-winevinegar
cuppackedlight-brownsugar
poundrhubarb,trimmedandcutinto4-inchlengthscelerystalks,cutinto4-inchlengthsFORTHEROASTPORK
smallbonelessporkloin(about3pounds),tiedCoarsesaltandfreshlygroundpepper
cuplooselypackedfreshsageorbasilleavestablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil
1.Makethechutney:Bringonion,raisins,ginger,orangezest,wine,vinegar,andbrownsugartoasimmerinasaucepanovermediumheat.
2.Addrhubarbandcelery;cover;reduceheat.Simmergentlyuntilrhubarbistenderbutnotfallingapart,about5minutes.Transferrhubarbtoabowlwithaslottedspoon.
3.Continuetosimmerliquiduntilithasthickenedandreducedandceleryistender,about10minutesmore.Transfertobowlwithrhubarb.Letcool,andchilluntilneeded.(Chutneywillkeepseveralweeksrefrigeratedinanairtightcontainer.)4.Makethepork:Preheatovento400°F.Patporkroastdryandseasonalloverwithsaltandpepper.Tuckherbsundertwine.Heatoilinalargeovenproofskilletovermedium.Addpork,fatsidedown,andcookuntilgoldenbrown,about5minutes.
Flipporkandtransfertooven.Cookuntilaninstant-readthermometerinsertedintomiddlereaches150°F,about20minutes.Letrest10minutesbeforeslicingandservingwithchutney.
TIPSamplethefinishedchutney:Ifit’stootart,addmorebrownsugar.Iftoosweet,addalittlemorevinegar.
1¼
¼
½
11¼
Asparagus,Artichoke,andFarroSaladToreallyappreciatethefaintlyearthytasteofwhiteasparagus,eatitraw,preferablycombinedwithcomparablyflavoredbabyartichokes—inotherwords,inthisbright,
crispgrainsalad.Freshmintanddill,lemon,andfetaroundouttheflavors.
SERVES6TO8
cupssemipearledfarro
Zestandjuiceof1lemon
cupextra-virginoliveoil
cupchoppedredonion
Coarsesaltandfreshlygroundpepper
poundbabyartichokes,trimmed(seePrepping)bunchwhite(orgreen)asparagus(1pound)cupfreshmintleaves
⅓
6
cupchoppedfreshdill
ouncesfetacheese
1.Coverfarrowith3inchesofwaterinalargesaucepan.Bringtoaboiloverhighheat.Reduceheattomedium,andcookuntiltenderbutstillslightlychewy,25to30minutes.
2.Meanwhile,combinelemonzestandjuice,oil,andonioninalargebowl,thenseasonwithsaltandpepper.Drainfarroandimmediatelytosswithdressing.Letcoolcompletely.
3.Trimandpeelasparagus;thenslice,onthebias,into½-inch-thickpieces,leavingtipswhole.Addtofarroalongwithmintanddill,tossingtocombine.Addfeta,drizzlewithadditionaloil,ifdesired,andserve.
1½
4
1
FennelandSmokedSalmonSaladFennel’smildlicoriceflavorhasanaffinityforsalty,brinyfoods,includingolives,
capers,smokedfish,andsardines.Here,wetossthinlyslicedfennelandsnippedfrondswithlemonzestandjuicetocreateatarttoppingthatcutsthroughtherichnessof
smokedsalmon.It’sagreatdishforbrunchoraholidayopenhouse,ortoservewithcocktails.
SERVES4
mediumfennelbulb,trimmedandthinlysliced,plus¼cupfennelfrondsteaspoongratedlemonzest,plus4teaspoonslemonjuiceCoarsesaltandfreshlygroundpepper
ouncesthinlyslicedsmokedsalmon
tablespoonextra-virginoliveoil
Tossslicedfennelandfrondswithlemonzestandjuiceinabowl;season
Tossslicedfennelandfrondswithlemonzestandjuiceinabowl;seasonwithsaltandpepper.Arrangesalmononaplatter.Topwithfennelmixture,drizzlewithoil,andserve.
1
1¼12
31¼1½
2½
2¼
ClamPanRoastwithFennelandSausageManyoftheseafoodstewsoftheworld—bouillabaisse,cioppino,andcaldeiradade
peixe(fromPortugal),amongothers—allshareacommoningredient:fennel.Essentiallyacreamystew,theshellfishpanroastismostfamouslymadewithoysters,butclamsarejustastraditional,andoftenappearincombinationwithsausage;we
includetwotypes,sweetItalianandkielbasa.Pernodandtarragonaddmorelicoriceflavor.
SERVES6
garlicclove,minced
poundsweetItaliansausage,casingremovedpoundkielbasa,cutinto½-inchcubessmallredpotatoes,halved
smallfennelbulbs,trimmedandcutinto¼-inch-thickslicessmallleek,cutinto¼-inchrounds,rinsedwellcupPernodorotheranise-flavoredliqueurcupsbottledclamjuice(unsalted)
Coarsesaltandfreshlygroundpepper
poundslittleneckclams,scrubbed
largetomatoes,cutinto8wedgeseachcuptarragonleaves
1.CookgarlicandItaliansausageinaDutchovenorheavypotovermediumheat,stirringandbreakingupmeatwithaspoon,untilsausageisnolongerpink,about5minutes;transfertoabowlwithaslottedspoon.Drainallbut1tablespoonfatfromskillet.Cookkielbasauntilcrisp,stirringoccasionally,8to10minutes.Addtobowl.
2.Arrangepotatoesinpan,cutsidedown;cookuntilgoldenbrown,5to7minutes.Flippotatoes;cookuntiljusttender,about5minutes.Scatterfenneloverpotatoes.Cookuntilfennelistender,stirringfrequently,about10minutes.
3.Addleek,Pernod,andclamjuice.Seasonwithsaltandpepper.Cookuntilvegetablesaretender,stirringoccasionally,about5minutes.Return
sausagemixturetopan;stirtocombine.Addclams,cover,andcook5minutes.Addtomatoes;cook,covered,untilclamsopen,about8minutes.
4.Discardanyunopenedclams,andremovepanfromheat.Stirintarragonandserve.
TIPTocleanclams,rinsethemundercoldrunningwaterandscrubtheshellswithastiffspongeorvegetablebrush.Discardanythatarechippedoropen.
¼
61½
⅔
3
1
Celery,Cilantro,andAlmondSaladForsomepeople,thetenderleavesthattoptheinnercelerystalksarethebestpart.In
prettyshadesofyellowandgreen,theyhaveadelicateceleryflavor.Theyalsomakeawonderfulsalad“green”thatcanbetossedwithvinaigrette.
SERVES4
cupalmonds
smallcelerystalks(from1bunch),thinlyslicedonthebias,tenderleavesreservedcupsfreshcilantroleaves
cupdriedcherries
tablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil
tablespoonplus1teaspoonfreshlemonjuiceCoarsesalt
1.Preheatovento350°F.Toastalmondsonarimmedbakingsheetuntilfragrantanddarkened,tossingoccasionally,10to12minutes.Transfertoaplate;letcool,thencoarselychop.
2.Combinecelery(stalksandleaves),cilantro,driedcherries,andalmondsinabowl.Drizzlewithoilandlemonjuice,andseasonwithsalt.Tosstocoatandserve.
TIPAlwaysseekoutcelerybuncheswiththemostleavesatfarmstandsandgreenmarkets(andevenatsomesupermarkets).
2
4
62½
¼
BraisedCeleryAlong,slowbraisetransformsthetasteandtextureofcelerysoit’smoremellowand
almostsilken.Here,theheadsareleftintactandhalvedlengthwise,exposingthehearts.(Besuretopeeltheouterstalkstoremovethestrings.)Finishingthedishunderthe
broilerresultsinanicelybrownedtop.Servewithroastturkeyorpork.
SERVES8TO10
largeheadscelery,outerstalksremovedCoarsesaltandfreshlygroundpepper
to6largethymesprigs
tablespoonsunsaltedbutter,cutintosmallpiecescupslow-sodiumchickenbroth
cupextra-virginoliveoil
1.Preheatovento375°F,withrackinupperthird.Cuteachheadof
celeryinhalflengthwise,andpeellargerstalkswithavegetablepeeler.Trim¼inchfrombases(keepingheadsintact),thentrimtopssoeachhalfisabout12incheslong.Arrangeceleryinasinglelayer,cutsidesup,ina9-by-13-inchbakingdish.Seasongenerouslywithsaltandpepper,scatterwiththyme,anddotwithbutter.Pourinbrothandoil.
2.Coverwithparchment-linedfoil.Bakeuntilceleryistenderandeasilypiercedwiththetipofaknife,40to45minutes.Turnoventobroil,andremovefoil.Spoonbraisingjuicesovercelery,andbroiluntillightlycharredinplaces,5to10minutes.
EDAMAME
ENGLISHPEAS
FAVABEANS
GREENBEANS
OKRA
SHELLBEANS
SNAPPEAS
SNOWPEAS
PODS
Wekeepwhat’spreciousstashedawaysafely,inboxesandcases,chestsandtrunks.Plantsdo,too.Inthecaseofbeans,peas, and okra, thismeans enclosing and protecting theirprecious seeds in little capsulesuntil the time is right forthemtobesentforthintothefuture.Ediblepodsandtheircontents,knowncollectivelyaslegumes,havebeenpartofhumanagriculturesincetheearliestdays—andcontinuetobe a significant aspect of diets theworld over.Because itturns out that those same seeds in which the plant hasinvesteditshopeandnourishmentforthenextgenerationarefullofgoodthingsforourbodies,too.
Unlike most plants grown for food, which have just asinglephaseofripeedibility,legumeshavebeencultivatedtobeeatenateverystageofmaturity.Thisistruewhethertheygrowonbushesorvines(orpoles).Somevarietiesareharvested when the shells are sweet and tender and theseeds barely formed (as with snow peas, okra, and greenbeans), others when the seeds are fully grown but stilldelicate, and the pods coarse (as with English peas,edamame, and fava beans). Still others come to marketdriedhardaspebbles.OnephaseAmericancooksare lessfamiliarwithisthefresh-shelledone,whenthehusksturnpapery around the seeds, which are mature but not yetdried.Thesebeansandpeasareabuttery,nuttyrevelation—andjustonemoretreasuretobefoundnestledinsideapod.
THEBASICS
SEASONALITYFavabeanpodsarelinedwithavelvetyfuzz,whichmusthelpkeepthebeanswarmastheygerminateandgrowinwinter.Byearlyspring,they’rereadytoeat;lookforfavasinlateAprilandMay.Englishpeas,sugarsnappeas,andsnowpeasfollowcloseontheirtails;you’llfindthemthroughoutspringandearlysummer.Greenbeansandokraarewarm-weatherplants,andareharvestedthroughoutthesummer.Shellbeans,likecranberryandlima,turnupingreenmarketsjustassummermovestofall.Oncetheirseasonhaspassed,driedbeansareafinesubstitute.Besuretobuythemfromashopwithahighturnover(preferablysoldinbulk)ordirectlyfromspecialtysourcessuchasRanchoGordoorZürsunIdahoHeirloomBeans.
BUYINGLookforgreenbeansandfreshpeasofallsortsthatareabrightgreenwithnoyellowing(unlessyouarebuyingwaxbeans),andmakesuretheshellsaretender.Greenbeansandsnowpeasshouldneverfeelleatheryorhollow,andtheseedsshouldbesmallandfullyembeddedinthepod’sinterior,ratherthanrattlingaround.Englishpeas,favabeans,andotherfreshshellingbeansshouldbulgeslightlywithintheirpods—neithertoobignortoosmall.Becausethesevegetablesbegintolosefreshnessthemomenttheyareharvested,buythemasrecentlypickedasyoucan—atafarmstandorgreenmarket.Okrashouldbevelvetyandvividincolor.
NOTABLEVARIETIESGreenandwaxbeans:Greenbeans,includingpurple-coloredvarietiesandyellowwaxbeans,arethemostcommonofthebushorpolebeans.Haricotsvertsarealsoafamiliaroption,whileRomanobeansareamongthemorecommonheirloomvarieties.It’sworthseekingoutpurplevarieties,suchasRoyalBurgundyorpurpleRomanobeans,forservingraw,andalsofortheirdistinctiveflavors.
Shellbeans:Thosedriedbeansinyourpantrystartedoutasshellbeans,whichyoucanbuyintheirpodsduringtheirbriefseason.Freshoneshaveanincomparablycreamytexture,don’tneedtobesoakedpriortocooking,andcookmorequicklythandried.Amongthemostwidelyavailablearemottledcranberrybeans,edamame,andlimabeans.Also,keepyoureyeoutforheirloomvarieties(andtheirdescriptivenames):Jacob’sCattle,scarletrunner,PinkHalf-Runner,BlackCalypso,borlotti,andTonguesofFire,tonameafewchefs’favorites.
STORINGRefrigeratepods,looselywrappedinaplasticbag—butnotforlong.Tender,freshgreenbeansandpeasarethemostephemeralofvegetables.That’sbecausetheirshellsaredesignedtotransfermoistureandsugarsintotheseeds,whicharethemselvesworkingontransformingthesugarsintostarch—processesdesignedtobenefitfuturegenerationsoftheplant,butnotcooksoreaters.Freshshellbeanscanbestoredinapaperbagintherefrigeratorforuptothreedays.
PREPPINGWithgreenbeans,snappeas,andsnowpeas,trimonlythestemendandnotthetapered—anddelectable—tip.It’sthesamewithsugarsnapandsnowpeas.WhenshellingEnglishpeas,edamame,andshellbeans,twistthepodgentlytocrackitopenandreleasethetastycontents.Onepoundofpodsequalsaboutacupofpeasandbeans.(Wefindfrozenpeastobeafinesubstituteforfresh;thawthemquicklyinacolanderunderrunningtepidtapwater.)Favabeanpodscanbesimilarlyopened,buttheseedsrequireafurtherstepbeforebecomingedible:Blanchthemforaminuteinboilingwater,plungethemintoanicebath,thenpeeloffthemilk-whitemembraneencasingeachone.(Unless,ofcourse,yougrillthem.)Okrapodsarecoveredinafuzzthatcanbecomepricklywithage;wrapseveralattimeinakitchentowel,andrubgentlytoremovefuzzbeforecooking.
COOKINGIfyou’veevertastedasugarsnappeaorgreenbeanpluckedstraightfromthevine,youknowthatthebestlegumesneedneverseetheinsideofakitchen.Butsincemostvegetablestraveltoreachourtables,cookingthemisinorder.Usually,alltheyneedisaquickdipinrapidlyboiling,saltedwater—but“quick”canbeanywherefromonetosevenminutesdependingonageandvariety,sosampleasyoucook,then
fromonetosevenminutesdependingonageandvariety,sosampleasyoucook,thendrainandplungeintoicewatertostopthecookingandbrightentheircolor.Okra,traditionallyusedtothickenstews,tasteswonderfulbatteredandfried.Andokra,alongwithgreenbeans,isaclassicforpickling.
HOWTOSTEAM(Forallpodsexceptshellbeans)RemoveEnglishpeasandfavabeansfromthepodsandpeelfavas;trimgreenbeans,okra,andsnapandsnowpeas.Placeinasteamerbasket(orcolander)setinapotfilledwith1inchofwater;bringtoaboil.Coverandsteamuntilpodsaretenderandcolorbrightens,2to7minutes.Drizzlewitholiveoil,seasonwithsalt,andsqueezeahalvedlemonoverthetop.
HOWTOBRAISE(Forfavabeans,greenbeans,okra,shellbeans)Removefavaandshellbeansfrompodsandpeelfavas;trimgreenbeansandokra.Heatoliveoilorbutterinaskilletovermediumhigh,thencookfinelychoppedonionandmincedgarlicuntilsoftened.Addvegetablesandseasonwithsaltandpepper,thenaddenoughliquid(chickenorvegetablebroth,supplementedwithasplashofwineorvinegarifdesired)tocoverby1inchalongwithabayleaf.Simmer,withpanpartiallycovered,untiltenderandliquidhasthickened,8to10minutesforfava,okra,andgreenbeans,30minutesforshell.Sprinklewithfreshherbs,suchasparsleyorthyme,andshavedcheesesuchasPecorinoRomano(spikeokrawithhot-peppersauce).
HOWTOROAST(Forgreenbeansandokra)Trimgreenbeansandokra.Drizzlewitholiveoilonarimmedbakingsheet,andseasonwithsaltandpepper.Youcanalsoaddsomewholepeeledgarlicclovesorthinlyslicedpeeledfreshginger.Tosstocombineandspreadevenly.Roastat400°Funtiltenderandbrownedinspots,tossinghalfwaythrough,15to20minutes.Sprinklewithchoppedfreshmintorcilantro.
HOWTOGRILL(ForallpodsexceptEnglishpeasandshellbeans)Trimgreenbeans,okra,andsnapandsnowpeas.Grillvegetablesinavegetablegrillingpanorthreadedonskewers(tokeepthemfromslippingthroughthegrates)untilcharredinspots,2to7minutes,turningasneeded.
untilcharredinspots,2to7minutes,turningasneeded.
HOWTOBLANCH(Forallpodsexceptshellbeans)RemoveEnglishpeasandfavabeansfromthepods,andpeelfavas;trimgreenbeans,okraandsnapandsnowpeas.Bringvegetablesandenoughwatertocovertoaboilinapot;addsaltandboiluntilvegetablesaretender,2to5minutes.Drainandseasonwhilewarm;orplungeintoanice-waterbathtostopthecooking,thendrainagain.
HOWTOSIMMER(Forshellbeans)Removebeansfromthepods.Placebeansinapotwithenoughwatertocoverby4inches.Seasongenerouslywithsalt,andbringtoaboil,thenreduceheatandsimmeruntilbeansaretenderandcreamy,20to30minutes,dependingontypeofbean.Drainwell.Drizzlewitholiveoil,sprinklewithchoppedparsleyorthyme,andseasonwithred-pepperflakesortopwithgratedorshavedParmesancheese.
FLAVORPAIRINGSTosscookedyoungbeansandpeaswithbutterandapinchofsalt,addinggentlytornherbslikemintormarjoramifyoulike—thesespringtimebabiesneedlittletotastesublime.Andthebuttery,nutty,orearthyflavorsofshellbeanscanstanduptoboldlate-summeringredientsandrichfallflavors,includingheartygreens.
EDAMAME:garlic,ginger,chilipeppers,orangezest,soysauce,tomatoes,cornENGLISH
PEAS:mint,parsley,butter,bacon,onions,cream,lettuceFAVABEANS:oliveoil,olives,basil,parsley,sheeps’-milkcheeses,peas,lambGREENBEANS:basil,tomatoes,parsley,lemonzest,ginger,garlic,thymeOKRA:tomatoes,vinegar,cornmeal,bellpeppers,shrimpSHELLBEANS:garlic,sausage,bittergreens,Parmesan,rosemary,tomatoesSNAPPEAS:dill,carrots,ginger,basil,lemon,chiles,garlicSNOWPEAS:sesame,peanuts,ginger,garlic,soysauce,bellpeppers
THERECIPES
BlanchedSugarSnapPeas,ThreeWays
RisieBisi
Green-PeaBurgerswithHarissaMayo
CranberryBeanSaladwithDelicataSquashandBroccoliRabe
SkilletEdamame,Corn,andTomatoeswithBasilOil
RoastedWaxBeanswithPeanutsandCilantro
GreenBean,ShellBean,andSweetOnionFattoush
WhiteBeanswithDandelionGreensandCrostini
GrilledFavaBeans
CreamyFavaBeans
BeefandSnap-PeaStir-Fry
GreenBeanandWatercressSalad
TempuraGreenBeans
Quick-PickledPods
1
BlanchedSugarSnapPeas,ThreeWaysFreshfromthegardenorfarmstand,sugarsnappeasaretenderandsweetenoughtoeatraw,asasnackorwithdipsascrudités.They’realsodeliciousblanched,whichleaves
theflavorintactasitbrightensthecolor.Weliketoservesugarsnapswithsimplesauces,madewiththepod’sfavoriteflavors:freshherbsandlemon.
SERVES4
Coarsesalt
poundsugarsnappeas
Inalargepotofboilingsaltedwater,cooksnappeasuntilcrisp-tenderandbrightgreen,about2minutes.Drainandtosswithdesiredsauce.
1
DILLBUTTER
Melt2tablespoonsunsaltedbutterinasmallsaucepanovermedium-lowheat.Removefromheatandstirin¼cupchoppedfreshdill.Tosswithwarmpeas.
2
PESTO
Sprinkle¼teaspooncoarsesaltover1peeledgarliccloveonacuttingboard,thencoarselychop;usingaflatsideoftheknife,crushintoathickpaste.Transfertoafoodprocessor;add¼cuptoastedpinenuts(orwalnuts),3cupspackedfreshbasilleaves,and1tablespoonextra-virginoliveoil.Pulseuntilfinelychopped.Withmachinerunning,add½cupmoreoilinaslow,steadystream,untilcombined.Add¼cupgratedParmigiano-Reggianocheeseandpulsetocombine.Seasonwithsaltand
Parmigiano-Reggianocheeseandpulsetocombine.Seasonwithsaltandpepper.(Pestocanbestoredinanairtightcontainer,withalayerofoliveoilontop,upto1weekintherefrigerator.)Tosswithwarmpeas.
3
LEMON-CILANTRO
Toast2tablespoonscorianderseedsinadryskilletovermediumheat,shakingpanfrequently,untilfragrant,2to3minutes.Transfertoaplateandletcool,thenlightlycrushwiththeflatsideofachef’sknife.Combinewithstripsofzestof1lemon,2tablespoonsricevinegar(unseasoned),and¼cupchoppedfreshcilantro.Tosswithwarmpeas.
TIPYoucanuseanyofthesesauceswithsnowpeas.Blanchasdirectedabove.
1
6
¼
1
1
½1½½
RisieBisiOneofourfavoritewaystoshowcasefreshpeasisinthistraditionalVenetiandish
(“riceandpeas”).Preparedproperly,it’sslightlysoupierthanrisotto,andaccordingtoculinarylore,itissupposedtocontainonepeaforeverygrainofrice—meaningthe
dishisjustasmuchaboutthepeasastherice.That’sjustthewaywelikeit,toppedwithgratedlemonzestandfreshlygratedParmesan.
SERVES4
cupshelledgreenpeas(from1poundinpods),or1cupthawedfrozenpeasCoarsesaltandfreshlygroundpepper
cupslow-sodiumvegetablebroth
cupextra-virginoliveoil
smallonion,finelychopped
cupArboriorice
cupdrywhitewine,suchasSauvignonBlancteaspoonfinelygratedlemonzestplus2tablespoonsfreshlemonjuice,plusmorezestforservingcupfinelychoppedfreshflat-leafparsleycupfinelygratedParmigiano-Reggianocheese,plusmoreforserving1.Blanchfreshpeasinapotofsaltedboilingwateruntiljusttenderandbrightgreen,3to4minutes.Transfertoanice-waterbathandletcoolcompletely.Drain.(Ifusingfrozenpeas,skipthisstep.)2.Bringbrothtoasimmerinamediumsaucepan;covertokeepwarm.
3.Heat2tablespoonsoilovermediuminanothersaucepan.Cookonion,stirringfrequently,untilsoft,6to7minutes.Addrice,cook,stirring,untiledgesaretranslucent,2to3minutes.Addwine;cook,stirring,justuntilevaporated.
4.Add½cuphotbroth;cook,stirring,untilalmostabsorbed.Continueadding½cupbrothinthismanneruntilliquidiscreamyandriceisaldente,about20minutestotal(youmaynotneedtoaddallthebroth).Addpeasabout1minutebeforerisottoisfinishedcooking.
5.Removefromheat;stirinlemonzestandjuice,parsley,cheese,andremaining2tablespoonsoil.Seasonwithsaltandpepper.Serveimmediately,toppedwithmorecheeseandlemonzest.
1
½½
21
12
½
2
4
1
½
Green-PeaBurgerswithHarissaMayoBecausetheirseasonissofleeting,itmakessensetohaveanumberofwaysinwhichtoenjoyfreshgardenpeas,especiallyoneortwounexpectedoptions.Peasnotonlylendbright-greenvegetableburgersalovelyflavor(andcolor),theyalsohelpkeepthemmoist.Thesepackalotofprotein(hereaidedbyahalfcupofchickpeas).Servethe
burgersonbriocherollswithbabygreens,cucumberslices,andharissa-spikedmayonnaise.
SERVES4
cupshelledgreenpeas(from1poundinpods),or1cupthawedfrozenpeasCoarsesalt
cupcookedchickpeas(rinsedanddrained)smallonion,finelychopped
tablespoonsfreshflat-leafparsley,choppedlargeegg,whisked
cupfreshbreadcrumbs(from3to4sliceswhitebread)tablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil
cupmayonnaise
tablespoonsharissa
briocherolls,splitandtoasted
cupmixedbabygreens
Englishcucumber,cutintothinrounds1.Blanchfreshpeasinapotofsaltedboilingwateruntiljusttenderandbright,3to4minutes.Transfertoanice-waterbath,andletcoolcompletely.Drain.(Ifusingfrozenpeas,skipthisstep.)2.Inafoodprocessor,pulsepeasandchickpeasuntilcoarselychopped.Transfertoabowlandstirinonion,parsley,egg,andbreadcrumbs.Seasonwithsalt.Formintofourpatties,eachabout¾inchthick.
3.Heatoilinalargenonstickskilletovermedium.Cookburgersuntilgoldenandcrisp,about4minutesperside.
4.Stirtogethermayonnaiseandharissainasmallbowluntilcombined.Spreadonbriocherolls.Dividetheburgers,babygreens,andcucumberamongrolls;serve.
1
1
4
2½¼
14
4
1
CranberryBeanSaladwithDelicataSquashandBroccoliRabeSimmeredcranberrybeans—alsocalledRoman
beans,withaflavorsimilartochestnuts—arethefoundationofthisheartyfallsalad
thatincludesroasteddelicatasquash,sautéedbroccolirabe,andcrumbled
bacon.Itmakesadelicioussidedishforafamily-stylemeal.Skipthebaconandyouhaveawonderfulvegetarianmaindish.
SERVES6
mediumonion
driedbayleaf
or5wholeblackpeppercorns
poundsfreshcranberrybeans,shelled(about3cups)cupplus1tablespoonextra-virginoliveoil,plusmoreforbrushingCoarsesaltandfreshlygroundpepper
smalldelicatasquash(about1¾pounds),cutinto½-inch-thickslicesslicesbacon(4ounces)
garliccloves,minced
bunchbroccolirabe,washedandtrimmed(about1pound)1.Usingasharpknife,sliceoffstemendofonion,andscoreshallowslitsallover,makingsureonionstaysintact.Placeinalargesaucepanwiththebayleafandthepeppercorns;fillwith3quartswater.Bringtoaboil;reduceheat,andsimmer20minutes.Addbeans;simmeruntilcookedthrough,about15minutes.Drainbeans,reservingcookingliquid.Inabowl,tossbeanswith1tablespooneachoilandcookingliquid;seasonwithsaltandpepper.
2.Meanwhile,preheatovento425°F.Arrangesquashonarimmedbakingsheet,brushwithoil,andseasonwithsaltandpepper.Roastuntiltenderandgoldenbrown,about20minutes.
3.Whilesquashisroasting,cookbaconinalargeskilletovermediumheatuntilcrisp,turningoccasionally,about8minutes.Transferbacontopapertowelstodrain.Wipeskilletclean.
4.Heat3tablespoonsoilinthesameskilletovermedium.Addgarlic,andsautéuntiljustgolden,1to2minutes.Addbroccolirabe;sautéuntilwiltedandheatedthrough,about5minutes.Seasonwithsaltandpepper.
5.Addbeansandsquashtoskillet,andcookjustuntilheatedthrough.Drizzlewithremainingtablespoonofoil,andseasonwithsaltandpepper.Sprinklereservedbaconontopandserve.
1
¼
4
3
3¼
⅔½
SkilletEdamame,Corn,andTomatoeswithBasilOil
Popedamameoutoftheirpods,anduseasyouwouldgardenpeas,limabeans,orfavabeans.Theyreplacelimasinthisupdateonsuccotash,aclassicsummertimesidedish.
SERVES4TO6
cupfreshbasilleaves
cupplus2tablespoonsextra-virginoliveoilCoarsesalt
scallions,finelysliced
garliccloves,minced
cupscornkernels
cupshellededamame(thawed,iffrozen)poundcherrytomatoes
2 tablespoonswhitebalsamicvinegar
1.Blanchbasilinasmallpotofboilingwaterfor10seconds.Transfertoanice-waterbathuntilcool,thendrainandsqueezedry.Puréebasil,¼cupoil,and½teaspoonsaltinablenderorfoodprocessoruntilsmooth.
2.Heatremaining2tablespoonsoilinalargeskilletovermediumhigh.Addscallionsandgarlic;cook,stirring,untilfragrant,about30seconds.Addcornandedamame,andseasonwithsalt.Cook,stirringoccasionally,untilcornstartstocaramelize,about10minutes(reduceheatifoverbrowning).Addtomatoes(halved,iflarge)andvinegar;cook,stirringoccasionally,untiltomatoesstarttocollapse,about8minutes.Drizzlebasiloilonvegetables,stirtocombine,andserve.
1
1
RoastedWaxBeanswithPeanutsandCilantroRoastingbeansuntiltenderandcaramelizedbringsouttheirsweetness.Trythemasasnack,orinthissidedish,tossedwithasavorysweetsauce,peanuts,
andcilantro.SERVES4
poundwaxbeans,trimmed
tablespoonsaffloweroil
Coarsesaltandfreshlygroundpepper
2
¼¾
½
¼
¼
Coarsesaltandfreshlygroundpepper
teaspoonslow-sodiumsoysauce
teaspoonfinelygratedpeeledfreshgingerteaspoonfreshlemonjuice
teaspoonlight-brownsugar
cupunsaltedpeanuts
cupfreshcilantroleaves
1.Preheatovento450°F.Onarimmedbakingsheet,tosstogetherwaxbeansandoil,andseasonwithsaltandpepper.Roastuntilbrownedinspotsandtender,tossinghalfwaythrough,about15minutes.
2.Inalargebowl,combinesoysauce,ginger,lemonjuice,andsugar.Addroastedbeans,peanuts,andcilantro.Tosstocombineandserve.
2
2
½½
¾3
½
14
½⅓
GreenBean,ShellBean,andSweetOnionFattoushInlatesummer,freshgreen
beansandshellbeansmakeawonderfulpair,onesharpandcrisp-tender,theother
butteryandplump.They’rethebeginningsofourversionoffattoush,aMiddleEasternbreadsaladthat’safinewaytoenjoysummerproduce.Youcan
blanchthebeansinthesamepot:firstthegreenbeans,andthentheshell(andnottheotherwayaround,sinceshellbeans
releasealotofstarch).SERVES4
lemons,1zestedandbothjuiced
garliccloves,crushed
Coarsesaltandfreshlygroundpepper
cupextra-virginoliveoil,plusmoreforbrushingpoundharicotsverts,trimmed
cupshelledfreshshellbeans,suchaslimaspitabreads(6-inch)
largeVidaliaonion,coarselychopped
Englishcucumber,quarteredandcutinto1-inchpiecesouncesfetacheese,crumbled
cupcoarselychoppedfreshmint,plusmoreforgarnishcupcoarselychoppedfreshflat-leafparsley1.Whisktogetherlemonzest,lemonjuice,andgarlic,andseasonwith
salt.Whiskingconstantly,pourinoilinaslow,steadystreamandwhiskuntilemulsified.Seasonwithpepper.Letstand15minutes;discardgarlic.
2.Blanchharicotsvertsinapotofsaltedboilingwateruntilcrisp-tenderandbrightgreen,about1minute.Transferbeanstoanice-waterbath(reservepotofwater);letcool,thenremoveandpatdry.Placeinalargebowl.
3.Returnwatertoaboil.Blanchshellbeansuntiljusttender,18to20minutes.Transfertoicebath;letcool,thendraininacolanderandpatdry.Combinewithharicotsverts.
4.Heatagrill(orgrillpan)tomedium.Spliteachpitainhalf.Brushbothsidesofpitahalveswithoil;seasonwithsaltandpepper.Grillpita,turningonce,untilgoldenandcrisp,about1minuteperside.Letcool,thentearinto1-inchpieces.
5.Addonion,cucumber,feta,herbs,andpitatothebeans;drizzlewith½cupvinaigrette;tosswelltocombine.Seasonwithsaltandpepper;garnishwithmint.Letstandatleast10minutesandupto1hourbeforeserving.
TIPThepitaischarredonthegrill(orunderthebroiler)tomakeitsturdyenoughtosoakupthevinaigrettewithoutfallingapart.Thelongerthesaladsitsbeforeserving(uptoanhour),thebettertheflavorsandtextureswillbe.
16½¼
11
WhiteBeanswithDandelionGreensandCrostini
Manyadeliciousmealcanbebuiltaroundfreshshellbeans.TheItaliansaremastersofthisart,cookingthebeanswithsimpleseasoningsandthenservingthemwithwiltedgreensandgratedcheeseontop.Servewithtoastedbread,mashingsomeofthebeanson
topasyougo.
SERVES4
poundfreshcannellinibeans,shelled(about1¼cups)garliccloves,5leftwholeand1mincedcupand2tablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil,plusmorefordrizzlingcupfreshthymeleaves
Coarsesaltandfreshlygroundpepper
bunchdandeliongreens,toughstemstrimmedtablespoonredwinevinegar
Crostini,forserving
FinelygratedParmigiano-Reggianocheese,forserving
Freshbasil,forserving
1.Combinebeans,wholegarliccloves,½cupoil,andthymeinalargepotwithenoughwatertocover.Bringtoaboil,thenreduceheatandsimmeruntilbeansaretender,30to35minutes.Seasonwithsalt,andcontinuecooking5moreminutes.Letcoolcompletelyincookingliquid,thendrain.
2.Meanwhile,heatremaining2tablespoonsoilinalargeskilletovermediumhigh.Addmincedgarlic,andcook,stirringfrequently,untilsoftened,about2minutes.Adddandeliongreens,andcook,tossing,justuntilwilted,about1minute.Seasonwithsaltandpepper,andaddvinegar.
3.Servebeanswithdandeliongreensandcrostini.Drizzlewithoil,sprinklewithcheese,andtopwithbasil.
TIPLeftoverbeanscanbefrozen,inanairtightcontainer,foruptothreemonths;thawovernightintherefrigeratorbeforeusing.
1
1½
GrilledFavaBeansGenerallyspeaking,favabeanshavetobeshelledandskinned,atime-consuming(butrewarding)process.Here’sawonderfulshortcut:Youcansimplygrillthemintheir
pods,thenpopoutthebeans,nopeelingrequired.Servethemwithamintyherbsauce,andsprinklemoremintandfreshlemonjuiceoverthetop.
SERVES4
poundfavabeans(stillinpods)
cupfinelychoppedfreshmint,plusmoreforservingcupextra-virginoliveoil
Coarsesaltandfreshlygroundpepper
Juiceof½lemon,pluswedgesforserving
1.Heatgrilltohigh.Cleanandlightlyoilhotgrill.Grillfavasdirectlyon
grates,turning,untilcharred,10to12minutes.Letcoolslightly.
2.Meanwhile,stirtogethermintandoilinasmallbowl,andseasonwithsaltandpepper.
3.Toserve,sprinklefavaswithlemonjuiceandmoremint,andseasonwithsalt.Servewithherbsauceandlemonwedgesontheside.
1
2
1¼
1
2
CreamyFavaBeansSimmeringfavabeanswithchickenbrothandalittleheavycreammakesadelectableaccompanimentforpan-seared,poached,orgrilledchickenbreast,asshownhere.Thistakesjustlongenoughforthefavastobecomecrisp-tenderandfortheliquidstoreduce
slightlytoformasauce.
SERVES4
poundfavabeans,shelled
tablespoonsunsaltedbutter
leek(whiteandpale-greenpartsonly),thinlysliced,rinsedwellcuplow-sodiumchickenbroth
tablespoonheavycream
tablespoonsfreshlemonjuice
Coarsesaltandfreshlygroundpepper
Coarsesaltandfreshlygroundpepper
1.Prepareanice-waterbath.Blanchfavabeansinapotofboilingwateruntilbrightgreen,about1minute.Transfertoice-waterbathusingaslottedspoon.Letcool,thenslipbeansfromskins(discardskins).
2.Heatbutterinalargeskilletovermediumhigh.Sautéleekuntilsoftened,stirringfrequently,about5minutes.Addfavasandbroth;cook,stirring,1minute.Stirincream,andsimmerfor2minutes.Removefromheat,andstirinlemonjuice.Seasonwithsaltandpepperwhenreadytoserve.
11
2
12
51
¼
¾
2
BeefandSnap-PeaStir-FryAstheirnamesuggests,thesepeasliterallysnapwhenbroken,thankstotheirfirmness.That’swhythey’reoftenusedinstir-fries,inwhichcasetheyarecookedlightningfast,justuntilcrispandbright(they’lllosethatsnapifcookedtoolong).Thinlyslicedsteakisalsoagoodchoiceforstir-frying,asitbrownsquicklyinahotpan.Here,scallions,
freshginger,red-pepperflakes,andlimejuiceroundouttheflavors.
SERVES4
poundsirloinsteak,thinlyslicedcrosswise,halvediflongtablespooncornstarch
Coarsesaltandfreshlygroundpepper
teaspoonssaffloweroil
ouncessnappeas
to6scallions,whiteandgreenpartsseparated,boththinlyslicedonthebiastablespoongratedpeeledfreshginger
to½teaspoonred-pepperflakes
cupwater
tablespoonsfreshlimejuice
Whiteorbrownrice,orricenoodles,forserving
1.Placesteakinabowl.Sprinklewithcornstarch,andseasonwithsaltandpepper;tosstocoat.Inalargewokorskillet,heatoilovermedium-high.Cookhalfthesteakuntilbrownedononeside,1to2minutes(steakwillcookfurtherinstep2);transfertoaplate.Repeatwithremainingbeef.
2.Addsnappeas,whitepartsofscallions,ginger,red-pepperflakes,andthewatertowok;seasonwithsaltandpepper.Cookuntilsnappeasturncrisp-tenderandbrightgreen,1to2minutes.Returnsteaktowokandcookuntilcookedthrough,1to2minutes.Removefromheat,mixingreenpartofscallionsandthelimejuice,andserveoverriceornoodles.
1
1
32
2
2
3
1
GreenBeanandWatercressSaladConsiderthisanupgradeonthebelovedgreen-beancasserole,oneinwhichtheflavorof
thepodsreallyshinesthrough.Crisp,goldenfriedshallotsaresprinkledontop.
SERVES8
poundgreenbeans,trimmed
Coarsesaltandfreshlygroundpepper
cupsaffloweroil
shallots,thinlyslicedcrosswiseintoringsteaspoonsall-purposeflour
tablespoonsfreshlemonjuice
tablespoonsDijonmustard
tablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil
bunchwatercress,toughstemstrimmed
1.Blanchgreenbeansinalargepotofsaltedboilingwateruntilcrisp-tenderandbrightgreen,2to3minutes.Transfertoanice-waterbathtocool.Drainandpatdry.
2.Heatsaffloweroilovermediumlowinasmallsaucepanuntilshimmering.Meanwhile,inasmallbowl,tossshallotswithflour.Workinginbatches,fryshallotsinoiluntilbrownandcrisp,2to4minutes.Transfershallotstopapertowelswithaslottedspoonormeshspiderandseasongenerouslywithsalt.
3.Whisktogetherlemonjuice,mustard,andoliveoilinanotherbowl;seasonwithsaltandpepper.Placewatercressonaservingplatter,anddrizzlewithhalfthedressing.Topwithgreenbeansandremainingdressing.Servesprinkledwithfriedshallots.
1¼
⅛
4
3
¾
4
3
TempuraGreenBeansGreenbeansmakeexcellentcandidatesfortempura,sinceyougetanicecontrastoflight,puffycrustandtenderbeansthatretainsomeoftheirtrademarkcrispness.
SERVES4
cupsDijonmustard
teaspoondrymustard
teaspoonshotsauce
tablespoonssoysauce
cuphoney
Grapeseedorsaffloweroil
largeeggwhites
cupsall-purposeflour
2¾1 cupsplus2tablespoonsclubsodaorseltzer(fromanewbottle)poundgreenbeans,trimmed
Coarsesalt
1.Heatmustards,hotsauce,soysauce,andhoneyinapanoverlow,whisking,untilsmoothandheatedthrough,about5minutes.Transfertoabowl;letcool.
2.Heat4inchesofoilinalargepotovermediumhighuntiloilreaches350°Fonadeep-frythermometer.Meanwhile,whiskeggwhitestosoftpeaks.Whiskinflourandclubsodajustuntilcombined,withlumpsremaining.
3.Workinginbatches,dipbeansintobatter,lettinganyexcessdripoff,thencarefullyplaceinhotoil.Cook,stirringoccasionallytokeepbeansfromstickingtogether,untillightgoldenbrown,about3minutes.Transferbeanstopaper-towel-linedplatetodrain;seasonwithsalt.Repeatwithremainingbeans,returningoilto350°Fbetweenbatches.Serveimmediately,withdippingsauce.
14
4
2
4
1
1
1
½
1
Quick-PickledPodsTryquick-picklingwhenyouhaveabountyofpeak-of-seasonsummercrops;the
vegetablesmaintaintheirbitewhiletakingontheflavoroftheseasonings.Here,waxbeans,greenbeans,andokraarepickledwiththesamebrine.Ifyou’reunfamiliarwith
okra,picklingisawonderfulwaytogettoknow(andlove)thisSouthernstaple.
MAKES2QUARTS
poundwaxbeans,greenbeans,orokra,trimmedthymesprigs
cupswhite-winevinegar
cupssugar
garliccloves
teaspoonfennelseeds
teaspooncorianderseeds
teaspoonmustardseeds
teaspoonwholeblackpeppercorns
cupwater
1.Dividepodsintotwoquart-sizeglassjars,arrangingpodsupright;place2thymesprigsineachjar.
2.Inasmallsaucepan,bringvinegar,sugar,garlic,fennelseeds,corianderseeds,mustardseeds,peppercorns,andthewatertoaboil.Reduceheatandsimmer10minutes.Letcoolcompletely.
3.Pourcooledbrineoverbeansorokra,leavinga½-inchspaceatthetopofeachjar.Coverandrefrigerateatleast3days(andupto2months)beforeserving.
FIDDLEHEADFERNS
MICROGREENS
PEASHOOTS
SPROUTS
SHOOTS
Whetherdestinedtobecomepeaorpumpkin,avegetableseedbeginslifethesameway.Whenconditionsareright,itdropsanchor,sendingoutalittlerootsprouttosecureittothesoil.Next,itraisesaslendercotyledon,aleafshootthat’salreadypresentinsideeachseed.Itstinywingsthusoutstretched, the plant can begin taking in theminerals,water, and sunlight it needs to pursue its vegetabledestiny.
Wehumansfinddeliciousnesswherevernaturehidesit,soit’snowonderweenjoytheseearlieststagesofplant life.Thepale,crispsproutsthatshowupinpadthaiareinfantroots frommungor soybean seeds; the fluffy green sprouts piledup onsandwichescometypicallyfromalfalfaorradishseeds.Andthebeautifultanglesofminiatureleavescrowningmanyrestaurantcreationsconsistofpea shoots ormicrogreens, the first true leaves ofpeas, beets, andothervegetables.Evenfernsmaybeeatenatthis infantstageofdevelopment—as fiddleheads, the tightly spiraled frondsofplants that actually turntoxicwhenfullgrown.
Shootsrewardimpatience:mostcanbeeatenwithinaweekofplanting.But speed isn’t theironlyvirtue;microgreensaredensewith flavorandnutrients.When you harvest these crops young, the nutrients aremoreconcentrated than in a full-grown plant. The flavors in shoots areintensified, too:Radish sprouts taste like radishes; sunflower greens arenutty. So you can let nature prepare these vegetables for you, andtransformsomethinginedibleintoanourishingtreat.
THEBASICS
SEASONALITYFiddleheadsareavailableAprilthroughJune.Peashootsturnupinspringandfallifthey’vebeenthinnedfrompeacrops;butifyoufindapurveyorwhocultivatesthemasacropintheirownright,theymaybeofferedyear-round,whichisalsotrueofmostmicrogreens.Sprouts,too,aregrownindoorsandavailableyear-round.
BUYINGLookforcrisp,brightlycoloredpeashootsandmicrogreensatfarmers’marketsandspecialtystores.Certainpurveyorswillharvestthemonthespot,cuttingthetinyplantsfromthetraysinwhichtheygerminated.Oftenforagedratherthancultivated,fiddleheadsalsoshowupmostoftenatgreenmarkets;selectsmall,tightlycoiledfrondswithlittletonostalk,andonlyfromtheostrichfern—otherspeciesshouldbeavoided.Asforsprouts,lookforthosewithcrisp,white“necks”withoutatraceofbrowningorwilting,andbesuretobuyfromareputablesource;thesamewarm,moistconditionsthatallowseedstogerminatecanalsobreedpathogens.(That’swhytheCentersforDiseaseControlandPreventionandotherfederalagencieschargedwithfoodsafetyadvisechildren,theelderly,pregnantwomen,andpersonswithweakenedimmunesystemstoavoideatingrawsproutsofanykind,includingalfalfa,clover,radish,andmungbeansprouts.Intheseinstances,cooksproutsthoroughlytoreducetheriskofillness.Cookingshouldkilltheharmfulbacteria.)NOTABLEVARIETIES
Microgreens:Youcanfindmicro-cropsofmanydifferentherbs,vegetables,evengrainsatgourmetgrocersandfarmers’markets.Cressisintenselyflavorfulwithsubtlespice;arugulahasamildpepperyflavor;beetgreens,broccoli,andkaleareallmildandslightlysweetwithtenderleavesonacrunchystem;mustardgreenstastelikehorseradish;mizunaisfairlymild;tatsoihasamild,sweet,cabbage-likeflavor.Herbmicrogreenstastelikeconcentratedversionsoftheherbs;basil,chervil,cilantro,dill,andgarlicchivesareallworthseekingout.Sunflowergreensarenuttyanddelicious;amaranthismildlyspicyandavibrantshadeofpink-red.
Sprouts:Whilealfalfasproutsarebyfarthemostcommon(andeasiesttofind),therearemanyothersthataresoldatnatural-foodstoresandfarmers’markets.Cloversproutsaresimilarinappearanceandflavortoalfalfa;radishsproutsareconsideredthespiciest;lentilsproutshaveapepperytaste;sunflowersproutsaremildandslightlysweet,similartoalfalfa;mungbeansproutsarecrispandnutty;garbanzosprouts,whichlookjustlikethebeans,areverycrunchyandbeany;adzukisproutshaveapronouncedleafyflavor.
STORINGShoots,sprouts,microgreens,andfiddleheadsshouldbeeatenwithinadayofpurchase.Storesproutswrappedinpapertowelsinanopenplasticbagintherefrigerator.Shoots,microgreens,orfiddleheadsmaybeenclosedinalooselyfoldedplasticbag.
PREPPINGWashsproutsthoroughly,firstsubmergingtheminseveralchangesofcoolwater,thenrinseanddrywell.Gentlyrinsepeashootsandmicrogreensandspindry.Withfiddleheads,firstbrushoffanyfuzzyorpaperysheaths,thensubmergetheminabowlfilledwithcoolwatermixedwithasqueezeoflemonandadashofsalt.
COOKINGEatenraw,microgreensandpeashootsshowofftheirintense,greenvitality;addthemtosaladsorsprinklethemovermaindishessuchasfishorsteak.Theycanalsobestirredintorisottosandotherstewsatthelastminute,wheretheywillwiltintheresidualheat.Delicatesproutssuchasalfalfaandradisharebestinsaladsandsandwiches,whilecrispermungandsoybeansproutsareoftensautéedwithstir-friesaminuteortwobeforeserving,inadditiontobeingusedasagarnish.Fiddleheadsarebestlightlysteamedorblanched,thensautéedinoilorbutter.
FLAVORPAIRINGSFiddleheadshaveechoesofasparagusandgreenbeansandcanbeusedinsimilarwaystobothofthose“grassy”vegetables—namelyineggdishes,salads,andwithlamborfish.Thinkofpeashootsassprightlyversionsofpeasandpairthem
accordingly(withotherspringproduce,saltyhams,richcheeses,rice,andothergrains).Inthecaseofflavorpartners,therearebasicallytwokindsofsprouts:thosethataredelicateintexture(alfalfaandradish)andthesturdierbeansprouts(mungandchickpea).Asformicrogreens,usethemwhereveryouwanttheflavorofthematurevegetable—pepperyarugulaorcress,say,orsweet,earthybeetgreens—minusthebulk.
BEANSPROUTS:lime,soysauce,fishsauce,ginger,sesame,garlic,scallions,cucumber,cilantro,peanuts,shrimpDELICATESPROUTS:lemon,tomato,cucumber,radish,carrot,avocado,goatcheeseFIDDLEHEADS:butter,eggs,sharpcheese,lemon,vinaigrette,basil,tarragonMICROGREENS:eggs,lemon,goatcheese,bluecheese,almonds,fennelPEASHOOTS:bacon,prosciutto,fetacheese,wildmushrooms,salmon,ginger,radish,mint
THERECIPES
SesameSalmonwithShiitakeMushroomsandShoots
FiddleheadandPotatoHashwithEggs
KaleandLentilBowlwithSprouts
SautéedSnowPeasandPeaShoots
Avocado-and-SproutClubSandwiches
PadThai
2
1144
2
1
2
SesameSalmonwithShiitakeMushroomsandShootsShootsmakearefreshing
changeofpacefromtenderherbssuchasparsley,mint,orbasil,andtheirtasteisjustasversatile.Here,freshshootsserve
asalast-minute(butessential)garnishforsteamedsalmonandshiitakes;black
sesameseedsarealsosprinkledontop.Theheatfromthefishhelpstorelease
justenoughoftheshoots’flavor.SERVES4
tablespoonslow-sodiumsoysauce
tablespoonplus1teaspoonfinelygratedpeeledfreshgingertablespoonplus1teaspoonfreshlemonjuicecupsthinlyslicedshiitakemushrooms(8ounces)boneless,skinlesssalmonfillets,preferablywildsockeye(each5ouncesand1inchthick)Coarsesalt
teaspoonstoastedsesameoil
teaspoonblacksesameseeds
ouncesmicrogreens,radishsprouts,orpeashoots1.Preheatovento400°F.Cutfour12-by-17-inchpiecesofparchment.Foldeachinhalfcrosswisetoformacrease,thenopenandplaceonworksurface.
2.Combinesoysauce,ginger,andlemonjuiceinasmallbowl.Addmushroomsandtosstocombine.Divideevenlyamongparchmentpieces,arrangingmixtureononesideofeachcrease.Layonesalmonfilletontopofeachpile.Seasonwithsaltanddrizzlewithsesameoil.Foldparchment
overingredients,thenmakeoverlappingpleatstoseal.
3.Bakeontwobakingsheets(twopacketspersheet),10to11minutesformediumrareor12minutesformedium.Carefullyopenthepackets.Topsalmonwithsesameseedsandshoots,andserve.
1½
82
1
4
FiddleheadandPotatoHashwithEggsTheshootsoftheostrichfern(Matteucciastruthiopteris),fiddleheadsgettheirnamefromtheirshape:Thetightcoilsresemble
thescrollcarvingatthetopofaviolin.Theygrownearstreamsandriversinthe
easternhalfoftheUnitedStatesandCanada,andtheyareharvestedbyhand.Heretheyareblanched,thencookedinaskilletwithpotatoesandeggsforagreat
one-potmeal.SERVES4
poundssmallpotatoes,scrubbedandhalvedCoarsesaltandfreshlygroundpepper
ouncesfiddleheadferns,cleanedandtrimmedtablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil
shallot,thinlysliced
largeeggs
1.Bringpotatoesandenoughwatertocovertoaboilinamediumpot;addsaltandcookuntilpotatoesareknife-tender,about8minutes.Addfiddleheadsandcookjustuntilbrightgreen,about1minutemore.Drainpotatoesandfiddleheads.
2.Heatoilinalargeskilletovermediumhigh.Cookshallotuntilgolden,
stirringfrequently,about2minutes.Addpotatoesandfiddleheads,andcook,stirringoccasionally,untilgoldenbrown,about4minutes.
3.Pushpotatoesandfiddleheadstooneside,thencrackeggsintopanontheotherside.Seasonwithsaltandpepper.Cook,undisturbed,4minutes.Removefromheat;letstanduntilwhitesaresetbutyolksarestillrunny,about4minutesmore.Serveimmediately.
1¼11
2
¼¼
14
KaleandLentilBowlwithSproutsAlfalfaandothersproutshavelongbeenusedtolendanydishinstanthealth-food
credibility.That’sstilltruetoday,asinthisof-the-momentmacrobowl.Thinlyslicedrawkaleandtenderlentilsmaybethefeatureplayers,butsprouts(weusesunflower)
arejustasnecessarytotheblendofflavorsandtextures.Acreamyavocado-garlicdressing,slicedsharpcheddar,andchoppedalmondsmakethisheartyandsubstantial.
SERVES4
Coarsesalt
cupsdePuylentils,pickedoverandrinsedripeavocado,halved,pitted,andpeeledteaspoonmincedgarlic
tablespoonsmincedshallot
cupfreshlemonjuice,pluscutlemonsforservingcupextra-virginoliveoil
bunchTuscan(orLacinato)kale(10ounces),stemstrimmed,leavesthinlyslicedouncessunflowerorradishsprouts
Slicesofextra-sharpcheddar,forserving
Choppedroastedsaltedalmonds,forserving
1.Inamediumsaucepanofsaltedboilingwater,cooklentilsuntiltenderbutnotmushy,about20minutes.Drain,rinseundercoldwatertostopthecooking,anddrainagain.
2.Pulsetogetheravocado,garlic,shallot,lemonjuice,oil,and1teaspoonsaltinablenderorfoodprocessoruntilsmooth.
3.Tosstwo-thirdsofdressingwithkaleinabowl.Dividedressedkaleamongfourservingbowls.Addlentils,sprouts,cheddar,andalmondstoeachbowl.Serve,withremainingdressingandlemonsontheside.
1
1
8
8
1
SautéedSnowPeasandPeaShootsTheedibleshootsandcurlytendrilsofpeaplantscanwithstandbriefcooking.Just30secondsisallittakesfortheshootstowiltandtakeontheflavorsofaccompanimentslikegarlicandred-pepperflakes.Heretheyarepairedwithsnowpeas,partofthe
categoryoflegumesknownasmange-touts—or“eatall.”
SERVES4
tablespoonextra-virginoliveoil
garlicclove,sliced
Pinchofred-pepperflakes
ouncessnowpeas,trimmed
ouncespeashoots
tablespoonwater
Coarsesalt
½
Coarsesalt
lemon,forserving
1.Heatoilinalargeskilletovermediumhigh.Addgarlicandred-pepperflakes,andcook,stirring,untilgarlicisgolden,about1minute.Addsnowpeasandcook,stirring,untilbrightgreenandstillcrisp,about1minute.
2.Addpeashootsinbatchesalongwiththewater.Cook,stirring,untiljustwilted,about30seconds.Seasonwithsalt,squeezelemonovertop,andserve.
Avocado-and-SproutClubSandwichesOneofthegoldenrulesofsandwich
makingistousecontrastingflavorsandtextures.ConsidertheclassicCaliforniavegetablesandwich,whichwouldn’tbe
thesamewithoutcrunchysprouts,creamyavocado,sharpradish,andtangygoat
cheese.SERVES4
212
48
Assortedvegetables,suchascucumbers,redonions,lettuce,carrots,andradishesripebutfirmavocados,halved,pitted,andpeeledsliceswhole-grainbread,toasted
ouncesalfalfa,clover,orgarbanzosproutsouncesfreshgoatcheese,roomtemperatureOliveoil,fordrizzling
Coarsesaltandfreshlygroundpepper
1.Slicevegetablesintothinroundsormatchsticks,asdesired;tearlettuceandsliceavocados.Dividingevenly,layervegetableson8toastslices.Topwithsprouts.Spreadgoatcheeseonremaining4toastslices;thendrizzlewithoil,andsprinklewithsaltandpepper.
2.Stacksandwichessothateachhastwolayersofvegetablesandoneofcheese(cheesesidedown).Cutinhalfandserve.
41
2
2
24
2
23
8831
1
PadThaiBeansprouts,whicharemadefromsproutingmungbeans,areatraditionalcomponentofmanyThaidishes,includingpadthai.Inthisversion,someofthesproutsarestir-friedwiththenoodlesjustuntilwilted,andtherestareusedasacrisp,coolgarnish
alongwithslicedradishes,cilantrosprigs,andlimewedges.
SERVES4
ouncesbonelessporkloin,cutinto¼-inchslices,theninto1½-inchpiecesteaspoonsugar
tablespoonstamarindconcentrate
tablespoonslow-sodiumsoysauce
tablespoonsThaifishsauce(nampla)tablespoonspeanutorsaffloweroil
or3garliccloves,minced
to3ouncespressedtofu,cutinto¼-inchslices,theninto1½-inchpieceslargeeggs,lightlybeaten
Coarsesalt
ouncesdriedrice-sticknoodles,soaked(seetipbelow)ouncesbeansprouts,rinsedanddrained(about4cups)scallions,trimmed,flattenedwiththesideofcleaver,andcutinto1½-inchpiecestablespoondriedshrimp,chopped
cupdry-roastedpeanuts,coarselychoppedThinlyslicedradishes,slicedThaichiles,cilantroleaves,andlimewedges,forserving1.Tossporkwithsugarinasmallbowltomix.Combinetamarindconcentrate,soysauce,andfishsauceinanothersmallbowl.
2.Heatalargewokorskilletovermedium-highuntilveryhot.Add2tablespoonsoilandswirltocoat.Cookgarlic,turning,untilgolden,about15seconds.Addpork,spreadingintoasinglelayer.Cookuntilgoldenonallsides,about1minutetotal.Addtofuandsear,pressingitagainstsidesofwok,10to20seconds.Transfertoaplate.
3.Seasoneggswithsaltandpourintowok.Cookuntilstartingtoset,about1minute.Usingaspatula,cutintolargepieces,andtransfertoplate.
4.Raiseheattohighandheatwokuntilsizzlinghot.Add1tablespoonoil
andswirltocoat.Cooknoodles,tossingfrequentlyandpressingagainstsidesofwoktosear,untilsoftened,2to3minutes.
5.Pushnoodlesupsidesofwokandaddremainingtablespoonoiltobottom,alongwith2½cupsbeansproutsandthescallions.Cook,tossing,untilwilted,1to2minutes.Adddriedshrimpandtossbrieflytoheatthrough.Addsoy-saucemixture.Cook,tossing,about30seconds.Incorporatenoodles.Addporkmixture,eggs,and½cuppeanuts;tossgentlytocombine.
6.Divideamongbowlsandtopwithremaining1½cupsbeansproutsand½cuppeanuts,andassortedgarnishes.
TIPRice-noodlesticksdon’thavetobecookedbeforeusing;justsoaktheminboilingwateruntiltender,accordingtopackageinstructions.
CABBAGES
CHICORIES
ENDIVES
LETTUCES
SPINACH
SPRINGANDWILDGREENS
LEAVES
The glory of leaves lies in their fresh green simplicity.Tossed in nothing but a dollop of dressing, their brightgrassy notes enliven any meal. But just because theydemand so little from a cook—a rinse, a tear, maybe asplash of vinaigrette—does not mean they give little inreturn. Whether mild or bitter, crisp or tender, spiky orroundasthumbprints,leafyvegetablesareessentialtoanyculinaryrepertoire.Learningtopreparethemisoneoftheeasiestwaystogrowasacook.
Leafy vegetables make your own vitality grow as well.After all, in nature it is a plant’s leaves that perform theprodigious task of harnessing sunlight and converting itinto the fuel that powers almost every living creature onthe planet. It’s a punishing job, and in order to fulfill it,leaves are loaded with phytochemicals that prevent andrepair the damage caused by basic cellular processes.Ourown bodies benefit enormously from the hard work thatleaves do—utilizing those protective phytochemicals tomend,cleanse,andrestoreourowncells.
Asnature’subiquitousandmostabundantsourceofnourishment,it’snowonder,then,thatleaves—intheformoflettuceandcabbage—arealsooneofhumankind’searliestfoods,cultivatedasearlyassome5,000yearsago.Maybeatossedsalad,farfrombeingasidekicktolunchordinner,isactually our first andmost fundamentalmeal. It’s sunlight transformedintowild,greendeliciousness.
THEBASICS
SEASONALITYLeafygreensprefercool,mildweather;intensesunlightandheattriggertheplants’impulseto“bolt,”sendingupaseed-bearingstalkthatturnstheleavestoughandbitter.Solookforlocallettucesandotherleafygreensinspring,earlysummer,andfall.Somehardierleaves,likespinach,chicories,andcabbages,turnsweetlateinfallafteracoldsnap,andcanformthebasisforsaladsthroughoutthewinter.Importedandgreenhouse-grownleavesareavailableyear-round.
BUYINGTender,delicateleavesdon’ttravelwell,soshopfarmers’marketsforthefreshestchoicesandtofindunusualforagedorheirloomspecialties.However,leavescanflourishingreenhouses,somanyareavailableyear-roundingrocerystores,includinghardyromaine,iceberg,endives,andcabbages.Whenselectinglettucesandspinach,lookfordark,firmleaves,whichgenerallycontainmorenutrients,andavoidanythatarelimporwilted,orstreakedwithbrownalongtheribs.Whenbuyingleavesbythehead—includingromaine,butterhead,andiceberglettuces,pluschicories,endives,andcabbages—inspectthebase;itshouldappearfreshlycut,paleanddryratherthandarkorslimy.Ifyoubuyprepackagedgreens(suchasspinachormesclun),gentlyshakethecontainertocheckthattherearenodeadleavesclingingtotheothersorthecontaineritself—they’realmostimpossibletocleanoffathome.Hardierleaves,suchasendive,radicchio,andcabbage,shouldbevividlycoloredorbrightlyhuedandtheheadsshouldfeelfirmratherthansquishyorspongy.Avoidendiveandradicchiowhoseouterleavesarebrownattheedges.
NOTABLEVARIETIESLettuces:GreenSaladBowlisanall-purposebutterylettuce;othersincludeOakleaf(redorgreenvarieties)andTango.LolloBiondoisapepperygreenloose-leaflettuce.Mâche,alsoknownascornsaladorlamb’slettuce,isalsotenderandmild.ColorfullettucesincludeMarvel(orRedBesson),RossadiTrento,RedGrenoble,RedRiding
Hood,RedSaladBowl,Loose-LeafGarnet,LolloRossa,RubensRomaine,andAmaranth(botanicallyagrainbuttheleavescanbeusedlikelettuces).Youcanalsofindredromaine,whichtendstobemoretenderthangreen,aswellasbabyromaineandotherlettuces,whichareallharvestedyoung.
Springandwildgreens:Theheartyleavesofstingingnettleturnalmostnuttywhencooked;chickweedhasamild,earthyflavor;lamb’squartersareslightlymoredelicateintasteandtexturethanspinach;purslanetastesofcitrus;dandelionsaremildlybitter;bothtypesofsorrel(woodandsheep’s)arerefreshinglysour.WatercressisthemostpopulartypeofcresssoldintheUnitedStates;othersincludepeppercress,curlycress,landcress,anduplandcress.Allhaveasimilarpepperytaste,thoughitvariesinintensity.
Spinach:Therearethreetypesofspinach:Savoyspinach,suchasRegimentandBloomsdale,hasthick,deeplycrinkled,darkgreenleaves;Flat-Leaf(orSmooth-Leaf)spinachhasmoretender,smoothleavesandincludessuchvarietiesasRedCardinalandRedKitten,usuallyharvestedforbabygreens;Semi-SavoyspinachisahybridofSavoyandFlat-Leafandhasatexturethat’sbetweenthetwo—varietiesincludeIndianSummerHybrid,Teton,andCatalina.Orach,alsoknownasmountainspinach,hasamildflavor;itisbotanicallyunrelatedtospinachbutcanbeusedinthesameway.
Chicoriesandendives:YoucanfindBelgianendiveincreamywhiteorred;full-heartendivehasamild,slightlybitterflavor.Ofallthevarietiesofradicchio,RadicchioRossoandChioggiaarethemostcommon;RadicchioCaesarisoneofmanyItalianvarieties,withvibrantredleavesandabitter,almosttartflavor.OthersincludeTreviso,whichlooksandtastessimilartoendive;TrevisoTardivo,amoreintenselyflavored,firmerversionofTreviso;Castelfranco,withspeckledwhiteleaves;andPuntarelle,theediblepartofanothertypeofItalianchicory(sometimesreferredtoas“chicoryhearts”)thathaslongpale-greenstalkswithspikydarkgreenleaves.Blanchedfriséeisspikierthanotherfrisées.
Cabbages:Savoyshaveamoredelicateflavorthanbasicgreencabbages.Theirbroadleavesworkwellaswrappersforgroundmeatandotherstuffings.Napacabbagesincludeseveralvarieties—somepaleandcompact,othersgreenandleafy;theymaybelabeledChinesecabbage,celerycabbage,wongbok,orPekingcabbage.Red(purple,really)cabbagesarecrunchyandmildlypeppery;lookforminiaturevarietiesatfarmers’markets.
STORINGRemoveanytwisttiesorrubberbands—they’llbruisetheleavesandspeeddeterioration—thenhandlegently.Leavesshouldbestoredlooselyinaplasticbagleftopenatthetoporpokedwithholestoallowforsomeaircirculation.Addingabarelydamppapertoweltothebagincreaseshumidityandcanprolongfreshness.Tenderlettucesshouldbeeatenwithintwodaysofbeingwashed,sorefrainfrompre-washingifyou’renotsurewhenyou’llgetaroundtoconsumingthem.Hardierleaves(frisée,escarole)canbewashedanddriedinaspinnerbeforebeingrefrigeratedforuptofivedays.Keptwhole,iceberglettucecanlastaweek,andcabbagescanremainamonthormore,looselywrappedinaplasticbagintherefrigerator.
PREPPINGThebestwaytowashleavesistofillasinkwithverycoldwater.Addtheleaves,swishgently,thenallowtositafewminutessodirtsinkstothebottom.Gentlyliftouttheleaves,andrepeattheprocess—onceifthey’refairlycleantostartwithanduptofourtimesifthey’requitesandyordirty.(Evenleaveslabeled“triple-washed”shouldbewashedbeforeeating.)Spinlettucedry,fillingthespinnernomorethanhalfwayatatime;checktoensurethatnomoistureremains,sincedressingswon’tclingtowetlettuce.Don’tcutortearuntiljustbeforeserving.Whichtechniqueisbetter?Large,delicateleaves,suchasbutterheadandBatavian,shouldbetornratherthancuttopreservecellstructureandlimitwilting.Firmleavescanbeslicedorchopped.Andsmall,tenderleavesarebestleftwhole,asareespeciallyshapelyones,suchasendive.
COOKINGAllleaves,eventhemildestlettuces,maybebraisedorsautéedoraddedtosoups.Some,includingspinach,dandelion,andromaine,canbejuicedorwhirredintosmoothies.Andlarge,pliableleavesmakeexcellentwrapsforavarietyoffillings,aswellasprettybedsforcomposedsalads.Butsurelythesimplicityoftheseleavesistheirgreatestgifttothecook—agreensaladcanbequicklytossedtogether.Takethetimetomasterafewversatiledressingsathome.Startbyrubbingapinchofsaltintotheleavestoinfusethemwithflavor.Thenusealightvinaigretteformildlettuces,athickerdressingforsturdierleaves—andalwaysadditjustbeforeserving.Pourthedressingaroundthesidesofthebowlratherthanrightontopoftheleaves,
andtossfromthebottomup.Orwhisktogetherthedressinginthebottomofyoursaladbowl,thenaddtheleavesandtosstocombine(buthereyouwanttomakesureyoudon’tmaketoomuchdressing).
HOWTOBRAISE(Forallleaves)Cutheads(suchasromaine,cabbage,radicchio,andendive)intoquarters,leavingwedgesintact.Cutortearothertypesofleaves(dandelion,watercress,spinach,andarugula)into2-inchpieces.Heatoliveoilinalargehigh-sidedskilletovermediumlow.Addwedges,cutsidesdown;addleavesinbatches,tossingandaddingmoreastheywilt.Cookuntilwedgesaregoldenunderneathorleavesarejustwilted,5to10minutes(5minutesforspinach).Addenoughliquid(brothorwater)tocover,andbringtoasimmer.Coverandcookuntilverytender,10to15minutes,dependingonvegetable(10minutesforspinach).Seasonwithsaltandpepper.
HOWTOSAUTÉ(Forallleaves)Cutheads(suchasromaine,cabbage,radicchio,andendive)intoquarters,leavingwedgesintact.Cutortearothertypesofleaves(dandelion,watercress,spinach,andarugula)into2-inchpieces.Heatbutteroroliveoilinalargeskilletovermedium;buttershouldstarttobrown.Addwedges,cutsidesdown;addleavesinbatches,tossingandaddingmoreastheywilt.Cook,stirringoccasionally,justuntiltender,3to5minutes.Seasonwithsaltandpepper.
HOWTOROAST(Forallleaves)Cutheads(suchasromaine,cabbage,radicchio,andendive)intoquarters,leavingwedgesintact.Cutortearothertypesofleaves(dandelion,watercress,spinach,andarugula)into2-inchpieces.Drizzlewitholiveoil,seasonwithsaltandpepper,andtosstocombine.Placewedges,cutsidesdown,onarimmedbakingsheet;scatterleavesinasinglelayer.Roastat400°F,turningonce,untilleavesarewiltedandslightlycharred,about15minutesforwedges,2to5minutesformoretenderpieces.ForItalianflavors,drizzlewithbalsamicvinegarandtopwithfinelygratedParmesan.
HOWTOGRILL(Forsturdylettuces:romaineandiceberg)Cutheadsintohalvesorquarters,leavingwedgesintact,andbrushcutsideswith
Cutheadsintohalvesorquarters,leavingwedgesintact,andbrushcutsideswitholiveoil.Grillonmediumhigh,cutsidesdown,untilcharredinspots,2to3minutes.Servewarm,drizzledwitholiveoilandaflavorfulvinegar,ortopwithcrumbledcroutonsandgratedParmesan.
FLAVORPAIRINGSThewordssaladandsalthavethesameLatinroot—noaccident,asithappens.Ajudiciousamountofsalthaslongbeenthekeytoasuccessfuldressing.That’sbecausesaltinterfereswithourabilitytotastebitterness,andallleavesareslightlybitter.(Eventhemostabrasiveoftoday’scultivatedleavesaremildcomparedwiththeirwildforebears,however.)Acidityintheformofvinegarorcitrusheightensthetasteoffreshnessinallplantfoods,andfat—whetheroliveoilorbaconrenderings—isthebestharmonizerandconveyerofsubtleflavorstothetongue.Inadditiontooil,acidity,saltandpepper,trythesepairingsinyoursalads:ARUGULA:almonds,goatcheese,grapes,pears,fennel,lemon,ParmesanCABBAGE:bacon,apples,caraway,juniper,redonions,ginger,garlic,soy,cashews,chiles,lime,radishes,carrotsCHICORIESANDENDIVES:bacon,asiago,bluecheese,walnuts,garlicMESCLUNLEAVES:goatcheese,nuts,mushrooms,driedfruitsMILD/SWEETLETTUCE(BIBB,BOSTON):shallots,citrus,chervil,tarragon,avocado,sourcream/yogurt(indressing)ROMAINE:anchovies,Parmesan,garlic,eggs,Dijonmustard,tomatoes,capersSPINACH:bacon,egg,Dijonmustard,shallots,lemon,dill,mushrooms,pinenutsWATERCRESS:buttermilk,bluecheese,beets,bellpeppers,ginger,lemon,shrimp
THERECIPES
WatercressandAsparagusPizza
EndiveandFennelSalad
ShreddedNapaCabbageSalad
PorkScaloppinewithRadicchio
SpinachandFontinaStrata
GardenGreenswithChoppedEggs
SpinachandGarlicSoup
EscaroleandBeanSoup
FriséeandRoastedPearSalad
BabyGreenswithPineNutsandPancetta
ArugulaandStoneFruitSaladwithBalsamicLambChops
FigandArugulaCrostini
CharredRomaineSalad
Free-FormLasagnawithEdibleWeeds
BraisedRedCabbage
CreamedGreenCabbage
FriedChickenwithPuntarelleSalad
MiniAsianMeatballsinLettuceCups
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WatercressandAsparagusPizzaIt’scommonpracticebynowtotoppizzawithaheapofarugulawhenitcomesoutof
theoven,asasortofpizza-and-salad-in-one.Withasimilarspicy,pepperytaste,watercressworkswellonpizza,too.Here,we’vecombineduplandcresswithasparagus
andredoniontocreateaspringy,savorypiefordinner.
SERVES4
bunchasparagus,toughendstrimmedandspearsthinlyslicedonthediagonalsmallredonion,thinlysliced
cupplus1tablespoonextra-virginoliveoil
Coarsesaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper
Pizzadough;use1ball;reserveotherforanotheruse)ouncesricottacheese
ouncesmozzarellacheese,shredded
cupsuplandcressorwatercress,toughstemsremoved
Red-pepperflakes
1.Preheatovento450°Fwithrackinlowerthird.Tosstogetherasparagus,onion,and1tablespoonoilinamediumbowl.Seasonwithsaltandblackpepper.
2.Brusharimmedbakingsheetwith2tablespoonsoil.Usingyourhands,gentlystretchdoughfromallsidestoapproximatesizeofbakingsheet.Placedoughonbakingsheet,stretchingandfittingittoedges.
3.Brushdoughwithremaining2tablespoonsoil,thenspreadwithricotta,leavinga½-inchborder.Topwithasparagusmixture;sprinklewithmozzarella.
4.Bakeuntilcrustisgoldenbrownandasparagusistender,about20minutes.Topwithcress,seasonwithsalt,andsprinklewithred-pepperflakes.Cutintopiecesandserve.
TIPWeespeciallylikethesharpflavorandheatofuplandcress;lookforitatfarmers’marketsandspecialtygrocers.
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EndiveandFennelSaladBelgianendiveleavesarecrispandsharp—justrightforperkingupsaladsduringthe
wintermonths.Thetasteisoftendescribedasbittersweet,andthesamecouldbesaidforfennelandwalnuts,bothusedhere.Pomegranateseedsaddvibrantcolor.
SERVES8
fennelbulbs,halved,cored,andthinlysliced,plus¼cuplightlypackedfennelfrondspoundBelgianendive(preferablyred),trimmedandleavesseparatedcuppomegranateseeds
cupchoppedwalnuts,toasted
cupextra-virginoliveoil
tablespoonfreshlemonjuice
Coarsesaltandfreshlygroundpepper
1.Scatterfennelandendiveonalargeplatter,andsprinklewithpomegranateseeds,walnuts,andfennelfronds.
2.Whisktogetheroilandlemonjuiceinasmallbowl,andseasonwithsaltandpepper.Drizzleoversaladandserve.
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ShreddedNapaCabbageSaladWithitslong,slender,openhead,napacabbage—orChinesecabbage(napaisloosely
translatedfromChineseas“leaf”)—definitelystandsoutfrommorefamiliarcabbages.It’samilder-tasting,less-crunchyoptionformakingslawslikethisone.
SERVES6
cupwhite-winevinegar
tablespoonsDijonmustard,preferablywholegrain
tablespoonssugar
smallheadnapacabbage,coredandshredded
or5radishes,thinlyslicedandcutintomatchsticks
cupgoldenraisins
tablespoonthinlyslicedfreshchives
Coarsesaltandfreshlygroundpepper
Coarsesaltandfreshlygroundpepper
Whisktogethervinegar,mustard,andsugarinasmallbowl.Tosstogethercabbage,radishes,goldenraisins,andchivesinalargebowl.Drizzledressingoversalad,andseasonwithsaltandpepper.Tosstocombineandserve.
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PorkScaloppinewithRadicchioHere,breadedcutletsareservedwithasaucemadebydeglazingthepanwithasplashofMarsala,oneofthesimplestandmostbelovedItalianpreparations.Thedishusually
featuressautéedmushrooms;wesubstituteroastedportobellosandaddroastedradicchio,whichtasteslessbitterthantherawvegetable.
SERVES4
poundbonelessporktenderloin,cutonthebiasinto⅓-inch-thickslicesheadradicchio,halved,cored,andcutinto¾-inch-thickslicespoundfreshportobellomushrooms,stemmedandcutinto¼-inch-thickslicestablespoonextra-virginoliveoil,plusmorefordrizzlingCoarsesaltandfreshlygroundpepper
Wondra(instant)flourorall-purposeflour,fordredging
cupfreshsageleaves
tablespoonunsaltedbutter
cupMarsalawine
1.Preheatovento425°F.Placeporkbetweenlayersofwaxedpaperandpoundtoaneventhickness(about⅛inch).
2.Spreadradicchioonhalfofarimmedbakingsheetandmushroomsonotherhalf.Drizzlewithoil;seasonwithsaltandpepper.Roastuntiljuststartingtoturntender,10to12minutes.
3.Lightlydredgeporkinflour.Heatalargestraight-sidedskilletovermediumhigh.Addoil,swirltocoat,andcooksageuntiljustcrisp,about1minute.Removefromskillet.
4.Swirlbutterintoskilletandcookporkintwobatchesuntillightlybrownedaroundedges,1to2minutesoneachside.Returnallporktoskillet.Pourinwineandsimmeruntilreducedtoaglaze,stirringupbrownedbitsfrombottomofpan,about1minute.Addradicchioandmushrooms,coatwithsauce,andserve.
TIPYoucouldsubstituteveal,chicken,orturkeycutletsforthepork.
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SpinachandFontinaStrataWhenbrunchisintheforecast,makestrata—thisoneisbuiltaroundthelong-runningcombinationofspinachandeggs(thinksoufflés,omelets,andquiches).Thespinachisseasonedwithnutmeg,anotherclassicflavorpartner,andispairedwithtwoterrific
cheeses:youngfontina,asuperbmeltingvariety,andParmesan.
SERVES8
tablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil
smallonion,finelychopped
Coarsesaltandfreshlygroundpepper
poundsspinach,stemstrimmedandleavescoarselychoppedteaspoonfreshlygratednutmeg
Unsaltedbutter,roomtemperature,forbakingdish
poundchallahloaf,sliced½inchthick
ouncesyoungItalianfontinacheese,grated
cupfinelygratedParmigiano-Reggianocheese
largeeggs
cupswholemilk
1.Heatoilinalargesautépanovermediumuntilshimmering.Addonionandseasonwithsalt;cook,stirringoccasionally,untiltranslucent,about3minutes.Fillpanwithasmuchspinachaswillfit;cook,stirring,andaddingremainderahandfulatatimeasspaceallows.Whenallthespinachiswilted,seasonwithpepperandstirinnutmeg.Drainspinachinasieve.Whencoolenoughtohandle,squeezeexcessmoisturefromspinachbyhand.
2.Buttera3-quartbakingdish.Placeathirdofthebreadslicesinasinglelayerindish.Topwithhalfthespinachmixtureandathirdofthecheeses.Repeatlayeringwithathirdofthebread,remainingspinach
mixture,andathirdofthecheeses,thentopwithremainingbread(reserveremainingthirdofthecheeses).
3.Whisktogether6eggsand2cupsmilk,seasonwithsalt,andcarefullypouroverbread.Coverwithparchment,andgentlypressdownwithhandsuntileggmixturesoaksthroughtopofbread.Coverparchmentwithfoil,andrefrigerateatleast8hours(andupto2days).
4.Preheatovento350°F.Meanwhile,removestratafromrefrigerator,uncover,andletstand30minutes.Whisktogetherremaining2eggsand⅔cupmilk,andpouroverstrata,gentlypressingbetweenlayersofbreadwithaspoonorspatulatoensurethateggmixtureseepstobottom.Sprinklewithremainingcheeses.
5.Bakeuntilpuffedandgoldenbrowninspots,45to50minutes.Letcool15minutesbeforeserving.
TIPYoungfontinahasasoftertexturethanagedvarietiesandisoftenlabeledas“semi-firm”or“tablecheese”;youcanfinditatcheeseshopsandspecialtygrocers.Regularfontinawillalsoworkhere.
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GardenGreenswithChoppedEggsBabyspinachismuchmoretenderandmildtastingthanmaturevarieties,andneeds
onlyaquickrinse(andnostemming)beforeserving.Whileyoucanfinditinclamshellpackages,seekoutbabyspinachinbunchesforsuperiorflavorandfreshness.
SERVES4
ouncesharicotsverts,trimmed
Coarsesaltandfreshlygroundpepper
ouncessnappeas,trimmed
anchovyfillets,minced
tablespoonfreshlemonjuice
tablespoonssourcream
cupextra-virginoliveoil
4
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cupsbabyspinach
largeeggs,hard-cooked
cupfreshtarragonleaves
cupfreshflat-leafparsleyleaves
1.Prepareanice-waterbath.Workinginbatches,blanchharicotsvertsinapotofgenerouslysaltedboilingwateruntilbrightgreenandcrisp-tender,about2minutes.Transfertoicebathandletcool;remove.Returnwaterinpottoaboil,andblanchsnappeas,inbatches,about1minute.Transfertoicebathuntilcool;removesnappeas,andcutinhalf.
2.Whisktogetheranchovies,lemonjuice,andsourcreaminabowl.Slowlyaddoilinasteadystream,whiskinguntilcombined.Seasonwithsaltandpepper.
3.Dividespinach,haricotsverts,andsnappeasamongfourplates,andtopeachwithchoppedeggsandherbs.Drizzlewithdressing,seasonwithsaltandpepper,andserve.
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SpinachandGarlicSoupInthischilledspringsoup,spinachispairedwithtwoformsofgarlic:freshgarlicis
roastedtobringoutthenaturalsugars;andgreengarlic,whichhasnobulb,isbrieflysautéed,topreserveitsdelicateflavor.
SERVES6
cupsplainyogurt
headsroastedgarlic(seeHowtoRoast)cupextra-virginoliveoil,plusmorefordrizzling
to10greengarlicstems,sliced¼inchthick
cupschickenbroth
poundbabyspinach
cupfreshbasilleaves,plussmallleavesforgarnish
tablespoonplus1teaspoonfreshlemonjuice
Coarsesalt
Coarsesalt
1.Stirtogether¼cupyogurtand2teaspoonsroastedgarlicinabowl;coverandrefrigerateupto1day.
2.Heat¼cupoilinasaucepanovermediumhigh.Cookgreengarlicuntiltranslucent,stirringfrequently,about3minutes.Addbrothandbringtoaboil.Reduceheatandsimmer5minutes;letcool.
3.Transferbrothmixturetoablender.Addremaining1¾cupsyogurtandhalfthespinach,andpuréeuntilsmooth.Addremainingspinach,thebasil,and2tablespoonsroastedgarlic(reserveremainderforanotheruse),andpurée.Addlemonjuice,andseasonwithsalt.Refrigerate,covered,atleast2hours(andupto1day).Toserve,topwithroasted-garlicyogurtandmorebasil.
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EscaroleandBeanSoupWhenyouhaveaheadofescarole(andahalfhourtospare),makeaquickbeans-and-greenssoup.Thismemberofthechicoryfamilyhasapleasantbitternessandsturdy
leavesthatbecometenderafteronlyabriefsimmer.Weincludetwotypesoflegumes—chickpeasandkidneybeans—forcontrastingtastesandtexturesinthisheartyone-pot
meal.
SERVES4
tablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil
garliccloves,smashed
Pinchofred-pepperflakes,plusmoreforserving
smallheadescarole,leavestorninto2-inchpieces(about12cups)Coarsesalt
can(15.5ounces)redkidneybeans,rinsedanddrainedcan(15.5ounces)chickpeas,rinsedanddrained
cupslow-sodiumchickenbroth
cupswater
Toastedbreadandlemonwedges,forserving
1.Heatalargesaucepanovermedium;addoilandswirltocoat.Addgarlicandred-pepperflakes;cook,stirring,untilfragrant,about1minute.Addescarole,tosstocoat,andseasonwithsalt.Cookuntilescaroleisjustwilted,stirringfrequently,about2minutes.
2.Addkidneybeans,chickpeas,broth,andthewater.Bringtoasimmer.Cookuntilheatedthrough,stirringoccasionally,about5minutes.Seasonwithsalt;removegarlic.Topwithred-pepperflakes.Serveimmediately,withlemonwedgesandtoastedbread.
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FriséeandRoastedPearSaladSERVES8
tablespoonshoney
tablespoonssherryvinegar
tablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil
Coarsesaltandfreshlygroundpepper
Boscpears,cored,eachcutintoeighths(unpeeled)
shallots,halvedlengthwise
teaspoonDijonmustard
cupwater
largeheadfrisée,trimmed(about8ounces)
headsendive,trimmed
¾ cupwalnuthalves,toasted
1.Preheatovento400°F.Whisktogetherhoney,3tablespoonsvinegar,and2tablespoonsoil;seasonwithsaltandpepper.Arrangepearsandshallotsinasinglelayerinaroastingpan;tosswithhoneymixturetocoat.Roast20minutes,turningpearsandshallotshalfwaythrough.Continueroastinguntilshallotsareeasilypiercedwiththetipofaparingknife,about10minutesmore.
2.Meanwhile,whisktogetherremaining2tablespoonsvinegarand3tablespoonsoilwiththemustardinaheatproofbowl;seasonwithsaltandpepper.
3.Removeroastedpearsandshallotsfromroastingpanandplacepanoverhighheat;addthewater,andscrapeupanybrownedbitswithawoodenspoon.Letliquidreducebyhalf,thenwhiskmixtureintovinaigrette.
4.Tossfriséeandendivewithvinaigrette.Transfertoaplatter,topwithpears,shallots,andwalnuts,andserve.
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BabyGreenswithPineNutsandPancettaYoucanoftenfindamixofso-calledAsiangreenssoldatsupermarkets,butit’sfuntoassembleyourown;babymizuna,babytatsoi,andchrysanthemumgreensareamong
themostwidelyavailablevarieties.
SERVES4
ouncesassorteddelicatesaladgreens,suchasbabytatsoi,babymizuna,andchrysanthemumgreens(about8cups)verythinslicespancetta
tablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil
shallots,thinlyslicedcrosswise
tablespoonspinenuts
tablespoonssherryvinegar
Coarsesaltandfreshlygroundpepper
1.Combinegreensinaservingbowl.Heataskilletovermedium;cookpancetta,turningonce,untilcrisp,2to4minutesperside.Transferwithtongstopapertowels;drain.
2.Pouroffhalfofthefatfromskillet.Addoiltoskillet;placeovermedium-lowheat.Whenfatishotbutnotsmoking,addshallotsandpinenuts.Cook,stirring,untilpinenutsaregoldenbrown,about2minutes.Withaslottedspoon,transferpinenutsandshallotstoservingbowl.
3.Removeskilletfromheat.Immediatelyaddvinegar;scrapeupbrownedbitswithawoodenspoon.Drizzlewarmdressingoversalad.Seasonwithsaltandpepper,andtosstocombine.Topwithpancettaandserve.
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1
2¼
ArugulaandStoneFruitSaladwithBalsamicLambChopsThepeppery,
mustardytasteofarugulacomplementssomanyotherflavors,includingtheearthylambandsweetfruitsinthissummermaincourse(inspiredbyMoroccan
tagines).Andarugulahasaparticularaffinityformint(andotherfreshherbs,
likebasilorcilantro).Amixofagedbalsamicvinegarandoliveoildoesdouble
dutyasamarinadeforthechopsandadressingforthesalad.
SERVES4
tablespoonspepitas(hulledpumpkinseeds)
cupbalsamicvinegar,preferablyaged
cupextra-virginoliveoil
Pinchofsugar
bone-inriblambchops,frenched(eachabout4ouncesand1inchthick)Coarsesaltandfreshlygroundpepper
buncharugula(about8ounces),trimmed
plumsornectarines,oracombination,pittedandslicedintowedgescuppackedfreshmintleaves
1.Heatamediumskilletovermediumhigh.Toastpepitas,shakingpanfrequently,untildarkenedandfragrant,3to5minutes.
2.Whisktogethervinegar,oil,andsugarinabowl.Reserve¼cupofthemixture;transferremainingmarinadetoasealableplasticbag.Seasonlambwithsaltandpepperandaddtothebag,turningtocoat.Letmarinateinrefrigerator,turningoccasionally,atleast1hourandupto4hours.
3.Letchopsstandatroomtemperature30minutes.Heatalargeskilletovermedium.Workinginbatches,removelambfrommarinade,lettingexcessdripoff,andaddtopan.Cook,flippingonce,untilaninstant-readthermometerinsertedinthickestpart(avoidingbone)registers125°F,about8minutes.Transfertoaplateandletstand10minutes.
4.Whiskreservedvinegarmixturetocombine.Dividearugula,fruit,pepitas,andmintamongfourplates.Seasonwithsaltandpepper;drizzlewithreservedvinegarmixture.Topwithlamb,dividingevenly;serveimmediately.
2
2
1
⅛
12
12
FigandArugulaCrostiniTheseappetizersshowhowevenalittlebitterarugulacangoalongwayinbalancing
thesweetnessofotheringredients(inthiscase,caramelizedonionsandfreshfigs).SharpParmigiano-Reggiano,arugula’sfrequentpartner,isshavedoverthetop.
SERVES6
tablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil
largeonions,thinlysliced
Coarsesaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper
tablespoonsugar
teaspooncayennepepper
ouncesfreshfigs,halvedlengthwise
slicesbaguette,toasted
3
1
cupsbabyarugula
ounceParmigiano-Reggianocheese,shaved
1.Preheatovento400°F.Heatoilinalargeskilletoverlow.Addonions,seasonwithsalt,andcook,stirringoccasionally,untilsoftandgolden,45minutes.Raiseheattomediumlowandcookuntillightlybrownedandcaramelized,about10minutes.Removefromheat;letcoolslightly.
2.Combinesugar,cayenne,andagenerouspinchofsaltinabowl.Placefigs,cutsideup,onarimmedbakingsheet.Sprinklewithsugarmixture.Roastuntiltenderandcaramelized,about10minutes.
3.Dividingevenly,topeachsliceofbreadwithsomecaramelizedonions(reserveextraforanotheruse),figs,arugula,andcheese.Serveimmediately.
1
1
⅔
½
2
½
CharredRomaineSaladSturdyromaineleavesstandupbeautifullytotheheatofthegrill.Thesaladisbestwhentheromaineishotoffthegrill,toppedwithradishes,shallot,andbuttermilk
dressing.
SERVES4
bunchradishes,quartered
shallot,thinlysliced
cupwater
cupplus2tablespoonsred-winevinegar
tablespoonssugar
Coarsesaltandfreshlygroundpepper
cupbuttermilk
¼
1
cupplus2tablespoonssourcream
largeheadromainelettuce,halvedlengthwise
Saffloweroil,forbrushing
1.Placeradishesandshallotinabowl.Bringthewater,½cupvinegar,thesugar,and2teaspoonssalttoaboilinasmallsaucepan.Pouroverradishesandshallot;refrigerate.
2.Meanwhile,whisktogetherbuttermilk,sourcream,andremaining2tablespoonsvinegarinabowl.Seasonwithsaltandpepper.
3.Heatgrill(orgrillpan)tomediumhigh.Brushromainehalveswithoil,andseasonwithsaltandpepper.Grilluntilcharredbutstillcrisp,about4minutesperside.Drizzledressingoverromaine.Drainradish-shallotmixture,scatteroverromaine,andserve.
21
18
2
12¼
Free-FormLasagnawithEdibleWeedsOncethoughtofaspeskyintruders,edibleweeds—sorrel,dandelion,lamb’squarters,chickweed,purslane,andstingingnettle,amongothers—boastadiversityofflavors,
fromsweettosavory,tarttonutty,andspicytobitter.Usejustoneoranycombinationinthislasagna.Theweedsaresautéedwithgarlicandcombinedwithgoldenraisins
andlemonjuice,thenlayeredwithzestyricottaandpastasheets.
SERVES4
Coarsesaltandfreshlygroundpepper
tablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil,plusmorefordrizzlingcupfreshricottacheese
teaspoonfinelygratedlemonzest,plus1to2tablespoonsfreshlemonjuicesquarefreshlasagnanoodles(eachabout5inches)
garliccloves,thinlysliced
ouncesedibleweeds,suchassorrelandlamb’squarters,thickstemsremoved,largeleavescoarselychoppedcupgoldenraisins
1.Bringalargepotofwatertoaboil;addagenerousamountofsaltand1tablespoonoil.Inabowl,stirtogetherricottaandlemonzest;seasonwithsaltandpepper.Workingwithafewatatime,cooklasagnanoodlesuntilaldente,accordingtopackageinstructions.Usingtongs,transfertoabakingsheet,layingeachsquareflat.Coverwithplasticwrap.
2.Inemptypot,heatremaining1tablespoonoilovermediumhigh.Addgarlicandcook,stirringfrequently,untiltender,1to2minutes.Addweeds;seasonwithsaltandpepper.Cook,tossing,untiltender,6to8minutes.Stirinraisinsandlemonjuice;seasonwithsaltandpepper.
3.Oneachoffourservingplates,toponelasagnanoodlewithabout¼cupweedmixtureand2tablespoonsricottamixture.Topwithanothernoodle,¼cupweeds,and2tablespoonsricotta.Drizzlewithoilandserveimmediately.
TIPFreshlasagnanoodlescanbefoundatspecialtyshopsandItalianmarkets;youcanalsoboildriedsheetsasdirectedonthepackage,thendrainandcutintosquares.
3
1
2
½
2
1
1
BraisedRedCabbageThecompoundthatgivesred(andpurple)cabbageitsbeautifulcolorwillalsoturnit
bluewhenit’scookedwithanalkalinesubstance,suchaschickenbroth,sodon’tomitthevinegaroranotheracid(likelemonjuice);theacidcounterbalancesthealkaline.
SERVES8
tablespoonsoliveoil
mediumonion,thinlysliced
tablespoonsbrownsugar
cupapplecidervinegar
cupspureapplecider
cupchickenbroth
cinnamonstick
1
1
driedbayleaf
Coarsesaltandfreshlygroundpepper
smallheadredcabbage,cutinto8wedges,coreintact1.Preheatovento350°F.Heatoilinalarge,wide,heavyovenproofpotovermedium.Addonionandcook,stirringoccasionally,untiledgesstarttocaramelize,10to12minutes.Addsugarandcook,stirring,1minutemore.Addvinegarandbringtoaboil,scrapingupbrownedbitswithawoodenspoon.Stirincider,broth,cinnamon,andbayleaf;seasonwithsaltandpepper.Addcabbage,arranginginasinglelayer.Bringtoaboil.Cover;transfertoovenandbraiseuntilcabbageistender,40to45minutes.
2.Transfercabbagetoaservingplatterusingaslottedspoon;discardcinnamonstickandbayleaf.Bringremainingliquidinsaucepantoasimmerovermedium-highheat.Cookuntilreducedbyhalf,about10minutes.(Youwillhaveabout1cupsauce.)Spoonsauceovercabbage,andserve.
13
¼
2
¼1
CreamedGreenCabbageCabbageisdeliciouswhendrenchedinacreamybéchamelsauce,blanketedwithgrated
cheese,andbaked.Serveitwithroastporkorsausages,likekielbasaorbratwurst.
SERVES6
Coarsesaltandfreshlygroundpepper
smallheadgreencabbage(about2½pounds),coredandshredded(10cups)tablespoonsunsaltedbutter
cupall-purposeflour
cupswholemilk,warmed
cupplus1tablespoonfinelygratedPecorinoRomanocheesetablespoonfinelygratedlemonzest(from2lemons)
1.Preheatovento350°F.Bring1inchofwatertoaboilinapot;addsalt.Addcabbageandcookuntiltender,about5minutes.Drainandletcoolslightly.Squeezeoutexcesswaterusingacleankitchentowel.
2.Meltbutterinamediumsaucepanovermediumheat.Stirinflour,andcookuntilbubblingbutnotbrowning,1to2minutes.Slowlywhiskinmilk.Cook,stirring,untilsauceisthickenoughtocoatthebackofawoodenspoon,about5minutes.Removefromheat;add¼cupcheeseandthelemonzest.Immediatelyfoldcabbageintosauce.Seasonwithsaltandpepper.
3.Spoonmixtureintoashallowcasseroledish.Sprinklewithremainingtablespooncheese.Bakeuntilbubbling,30to35minutes.Letstand5minutesbeforeserving.
10¾
52
3
¼
¼
2
2
2
1
2
3
FriedChickenwithPuntarelleSaladHere’sSouthernfriedchickenandgreens,Italianstyle:Buttermilk-batteredstripsof
meataretoppedwithasalad(àlaMilanese)ofbitterleavesandbasil.Ifyoucanfindaheadofpuntarelle,achicorythat’saspecialtyofRome,byallmeansuseithere.First,
peelbackandtrimtheleaves,andreservethecelery-likeheartforanotheruse.Otherwise,useanybitterleavesyoulike.
SERVES6
FORTHESALAD
cupsbitterleaves,suchaspuntarelle,dandeliongreens,arugula,escarole,orchicory,tornorslicediflargecuptornfreshbasilleaves
scallions(whiteandpale-greenpartsonly),thinlyslicedgarliccloves
Coarsesalt
oil-packedanchovyfillets
cupfreshlemonjuice
cupplus2tablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil
FORTHECHICKEN
cupsbuttermilk
largeeggs
teaspoonsbakingpowder
teaspoonbakingsoda
cupsall-purposeflour
Coarsesaltandfreshlygroundpepper
Saffloweroil,forfrying(about8cups)
skinless,bonelesschickenbreasthalves(1½pounds),cutinto1-by-3-inchstripsFlakyseasalt,suchasMaldon,forsprinkling
Lemonwedges,forserving
1.Makethesalad:Tosstogethergreens,basil,andscallionsinalarge
bowl.Mashgarlicandapinchofcoarsesaltintoapasteusingamortarandpestleorusingtheflatsideofachef’sknife.Addanchoviesandmash.Transfermixturetoasmallbowl,andstirinlemonjuice.Graduallyaddoil,whiskingconstantly,untilemulsified.
2.Makethechicken:Combinebuttermilk,eggs,bakingpowder,andbakingsodainabowl.Whiskflourwithcoarsesaltandpepperinanotherbowl.
3.Inamediumpot,heatafewinchesofoilovermediumuntiloilreaches380°Fonadeep-frythermometer.Dipeachpieceofchickenintobuttermilkmixturetocoat,shakingoffexcess,thendredgeinflourmixture,pattingitontochickenasyouworktocoatcompletely.
4.Workinginbatches,carefullyfrychickenuntildeepgoldenbrown,about3minutes.Usetongstotransfertopaper-towel-linedplatestodrain.Sprinklewithseasalt.
5.Tosssaladwithhalfthedressinginalargebowl.Seasonwithcoarsesaltandpepper.Dividechickenstripsamongsixplates,andtopeachwithsalad.Servewithlemonwedgesandremainingdressingontheside.
½
3¼
1
1
1
1
¼
1
MiniAsianMeatballsinLettuceCupsLettuceisanentirelyauthenticwrapperforAsianmeatballs,anditdoesn’tdetractfromtheflavoringsthewaythatbreadcan.Soft,tenderlettuceslikeBibbandBostonwork
best,butgreenandredleaflettucesarefinehere,too.Don’tskiptheaccompanyinglimemayonnaise;it’ssoeasytomix,andreallycompletesthedish,asdotheothergarnishes.
SERVES4
cupchoppedgarlic(from10to12cloves)
tablespoonschoppedpeeledfreshginger(froma3-inchpiece)cupchoppedscallions(from2to3scallions)
poundgroundbeef,turkey,orpork,oracombination
teaspoonfishsauce,suchasnamplaornuocmam
teaspooncoarsesalt
tablespoontoastedsesameoil
cupmayonnaise
tablespoonfreshlimejuice,pluslimewedges,forservingBibblettuceleaves,forserving
Assortedgarnishes,suchascilantro,slicedThaichiles,choppedroastedpeanuts,andhotsaucesuchasSriracha1.Finelychoptogethergarlic,ginger,andscallions.Inabowl,gentlycombinegarlicmixturewithgroundbeef,fishsauce,andsalt.Formmixtureinto1-inchmeatballs.
2.Heatsesameoilinalargeskilletoverhigh.Workinginbatches,frymeatballsuntilbrownedandcookedthrough,about5minutesperbatch.
3.Inasmallbowl,mixmayonnaiseandlimejuice.Servemeatballsinlettucecups,withlimemayonnaise,assortedgarnishes,andlimewedges.
ARTICHOKES
BROCCOLI
BRUSSELSSPROUTS
CAULIFLOWER
CHIVEBLOSSOMS
EDIBLEFLOWERS
SQUASHBLOSSOMS
FLOWERS&BUDS
Intheflowergarden,abudspeaksofbeauty’spromise,and a blossom of its bright fulfillment. But in thevegetable patch, where deliciousness trumpsgorgeousness, flowers and buds are far less prized, forthey rarely embody a plant’s crowning flavors ornutrients.
Not so in the case of artichokes, broccoli, andcauliflower—allvegetables thatareactuallybuds.Theartichoke, a relative of the thistle, consists of tightlyfurledpetals(referredto,erroneously,asleaves),whichcradle a layer of tender flesh near its base; that bud’sheart and stem are also delectable when harvestedyoung. Cauliflower and broccoli are dense clusters oftinybudsproliferatingwithina looseheadofcabbage-like leaves.Brussels sprouts,meanwhile, arenotactualsprouts,butinsteadarebudlikeheadsthatsproutalongathickstem.
Flowers eaten in full bloom tend tobequite fragile—notsurprising, for theyare seldomdesignedto supportweightgreater than that of ahoneybee—and theyaredelicate in flavor as well. Chive blossoms taste like awhisper of onion. Nasturtiums have a mildly spicy,velvetyquality.Amongedible flowers,onlyvoluptuous squashblossomsare substantial enough tobe cookedandeatenas truevegetables ratherthanasagarnish.
Innature,budsaretransitoryandflowersarefleeting,whichmakesthestop-time quality of the edible varieties all the more wonderful—a
promisecometodeliciousfruition.
THEBASICS
SEASONALITYBroccoli,cauliflower,andbrusselssproutsaremembersofthecrucifer(cabbage)family,allofwhichlikecoolweather.Althoughthesevegetablesareavailablethroughoutmuchoftheyear,connoisseurssweartheytastebestafteracoldsnapinfall.Lookforthematfarmers’marketsoncesweaterseasonisunderway.Artichokesalsolikecoolweather,andtheirpeakseasonsareinspringandearlyfall.Squashblossomsopenthroughoutearlyandmidsummer—asingleplantwillkeepproducingthemoverthecourseofseveralweeks.Asforotherflowers,theymaybloominspring,summer,orearlyfall,dependingonvariety.
BUYINGLookforartichokes,broccoli,andcauliflowerthataredenseandfirm;theirflavorsstarttodeterioratethemomentthebudsburstopenandbegintoblossom.Babyartichokesareactuallybudsthatsproutloweronthestalkthanfull-sizeones;reducedsunexposurekeepsthemfromdevelopingtheroughchokesandsharpbarbsthatcanmakepreppingfull-sizeonesarduous.Broccoliandbrusselssproutsshouldbeabluishgreen,thelatterwithacoatingofnaturalwax.Thebestwaytobuybrusselssproutsiswhentheyarestillonthestalk,availableatfarmer’smarkets(andsomesupermarkets)duringthespringandfall.Withflowerblossoms,themostimportantcriterionmaybeoneyoucan’tsee:Theymustbegrownwithoutthepesticidesthatsaturatemostcommercialflowers.Sobuythematgreenmarkets,orgrowthemyourself.
NOTABLEVARIETIESArtichokes:Babypurpleartichokesaremilderandslightlysweeterthantheregularvariety.ViolettadiChioggiaisasmallervarietyandmoreovalshapedthanglobeartichokes,withmottledpurpleleavesandapronouncedflavor.Benicarló,ahighlyprizedvarietyfromValencia,Spain,hasafull,meatyflavor.
Broccoli:Purplebroccolihasaheadbeadedwithindigofloretsthatturnashadeofolivegreenwhencooked;theflavorismilderthangreenbroccoli.Romanescobroccoli,alsoknownascavolobroccoloRomanesco,orsimplycavoloRomano,hastight,brightgreenspiralingheads;thetasteismellowandslightlynutty.Broccoflower,abroccoli-cauliflowerhybrid,lookslikealime-greencauliflowerandtastesalittlelikebothitsparents.
BroccoliniandChinesebroccoliarecloserelativesofbroccoli,asallaremembersofthecabbagefamily(unlikebroccolirabe,whichisnotrelatedtobroccoliatall;seeGreensformoreinformation).BroccoliniisactuallyahybridofbroccoliandChinesebroccoli,withtightflorets,longstalks,andtenderleaves(alledible);theflavorismilderandsweeterthanregularbroccoli.Chinesebroccoli,ontheotherhand,isslightlybitterandhasthickerstemsandflatter,sturdierleavesthanbroccolini.
Brusselssprouts:ThemostcommontypesofsproutsareDiabloandDimitri,twohybridsthatbearthehallmarkgreencolorandmildtaste.It’sworthlookingformorerobust-flavoredheirloomvarieties,suchasLongIsland,Catskill,andgorgeous,purplish-redRubine.
Cauliflower:Stunningheirloomvarietiesofcauliflowerinarangeofcolorsarenowbeingcultivated.Orangecauliflower,sometimesreferredtoascheddarcauliflower,hasthesametasteandtextureaswhite,whilepurplecauliflowerismilder,sweeter,andnuttier.Miniaturecauliflowers(oftencalledbabycauliflower)thesizeoffistscanbepreparedthesamewayasthefull-sizevariety.
Edibleflowers:Therearedozensofflowerblossomsthatcanbeusedforculinarypurposes:Calendulaormarigoldsrangefromspicytobitter,tangytopeppery,withagolden-orangehuethatmakesthemagoodsubstituteforsaffron;whiteandredcloverblossomsaresweetandtasteoflicorice;dandelionsaresweetestwhenpickedyoung,andthebudsaretastierthantheflowers;hibiscushasacitrusyflavor;sweetwoodruffissweetandgrassy;violetsaresweetandfragrant.Theflowersofmostherbsandvegetablesarealsogenerallyedible:weespeciallylikefloweringbasil,borage,chives,dill,lavender,lemonverbena,mint,andthyme,aswellastheflowersfromarugula,okra,radish,andscarletrunnerbeans.
STORINGBroccoli,cauliflower,brusselssprouts,andartichokesshouldallbekeptintherefrigerator,looselywrappedinaplasticbag;dependingonhowfreshtheyaretobeginwith,theywillkeepanywherefromacoupleofdaystoaweek.Ifyoucan’tuse
beginwith,theywillkeepanywherefromacoupleofdaystoaweek.Ifyoucan’tusefreshblossomsrightaway,storethemlikeanyflowers:withtheirstemsinavaseofcoolwater,intherefrigerator.
PREPPINGToreadybabyartichokes,simplyremovethetougherouterleavesandtrimthestems.Sliceverythinlyonamandolinetoeatraw.Full-sizeartichokestakemoreworktoprepareforcooking:Stripawaythetoughouterleaves,thencutroughly½inchoffthetop.Usingkitchenscissors,trimawaythetipsofremainingleavestoremovethorns.Atthispointtheartichokeisreadyforboiling;buttoroastorsauté,sliceitlengthwiseintoquartersorwedges,andusethetipofaparingknifetocutoutthefuzzy,pinkishchoke.Asyouwork,placepreppedartichokesinabowlofwateracidulatedwithlemonjuice(3tablespoonsperquartofwater)orwhitevinegar(2tablespoonsperquart);cutsurfacesquicklydarkenwhenexposedtoair.
Youcanbreakaheadofcauliflowerorbroccoliintofloretswithyourbarehands,oruseaknifetochopitdowntotherightsizeforarecipe,ortoeatraw.Tomakecauliflowerorbroccoli“steaks,”simplytrimoneendfromstalks,thenslicedownverticallythroughtheheadsintothickslabs(anywherefromahalfinchtoaninch).Ifyouplantoeatthestalks,pareawaythetoughouterlayerwithapeelerorknife;thencontinuetoshavethemwiththepeeler,orslicethinlyonthediagonal,touserawinsaladsandslaws.Handlecauliflowerwithcare;itbruiseseasily.Usethepotato-eyescooponavegetablepeelertocutoutanyblackspots.Blossomsneednothingbutagentlerinse.
Brusselssproutsonlyrequirepullingofftheouterleaves,whichareoftenbruisedorblemished,andtrimmingtheshortstems.Ifyouplantoeatbrusselssproutsraw,simplyseparatethetender,innerleavesorsliceverythinly.Otherwise,youcanhalveorquarterlargersproutsbeforecookingsotheyareofamoreuniformsize.
COOKINGPeoplewhoadorebroccoli,cauliflower,andbrusselssproutsoftenquestionthosewhodon’t,andviceversa:Howcanthey…?Blamegenerationsofcookswhoboiledthesevegetables,thenservedthemasis,oftenatroomtemperature.That’snottosaythatsteamedandblanchedversionscan’tbewonderful—theyare,whencombinedwithotherflavorfulingredientsinstir-fries,salads,andthelike,ordippedinsauces.Butforservingaloneasasidedish,thesevegetablesgenerallytastebetterwhenroasted
orsautéed.Babyartichokesarewonderfulleftwhole(orhalved,asdesired)andfriedorroasted.Thelargeonesarebeststeamedorboiled,sothattheycanbetakenapart,petalbypetal,wheneaten.Fragileblossomsshouldbeaddedtodishesatthelastminutetominimizewilting.Squashblossomscanbeslicedorchopped,andaddedtorecipeswhereyouusezucchini—orthebeautifulbell-shapedflowerscanbestuffedandfriedwhole.
HOWTOSTEAM(Forartichokes,broccoli,brusselssprouts,cauliflower)TrimartichokesasdescribedinPrepping(leavebabyartichokeswholeorcutinhalf).Trimstalksfrombroccoliandcauliflower,andcutheadsintolargeflorets.Trimbrusselssproutsandleavewholeorhalve.Placeinasteamerbasketsetinapotwith2inchesofwater.Bringtoaboil;coverandsteamuntiljusttenderandbroccoliandbrusselssproutsarebrightgreen,6to8minutes.Tosswithbutteroroliveoil;seasonwithsaltandpepper.
HOWTOSAUTÉ(Forartichokes,broccoli,brusselssprouts,cauliflower)TrimartichokesasdescribedinPrepping;cutintoquarters(leavebabyartichokeswholeorcutinhalf).Trimothervegetables,peelingouterlayerofanystalks.Separatebroccoliandcauliflowerintosmallflorets,orcutdiagonallyinto1-inchslicesandcutstalksintosame-sizepieces.Halveorquartersprouts.Heatoliveoilorbutterinalargeskilletovermediumhigh.Addvegetables,seasonwithsaltandpepper,andcook,stirringoccasionally,untilgoldenbrownandcaramelized,8to10minutes.Addalittlewater(about⅓cupfor2poundsofvegetables)andcook,stirringupbrownedbitsfrombottomofpan,untilevaporated,about2minutes.Sprinklewithlemonjuice.
HOWTOROAST(Forbabyartichokes,broccoli,brusselssprouts,cauliflower)Trimbabyartichokes,andleavewholeorcutinhalf.Trim1inchfromstalksofbroccoliandcauliflowerandpeelouterlayerofstalk.Cutdiagonallyinto1-inch-thickslices.Separatefloretsintobite-sizepieces.Trimbrusselssproutsandhalveorquarter.Drizzlewitholiveoil,seasonwithsaltandpepper,andtosstocombine.Spreadevenlyonarimmedbakingsheet.Roastina425°Fovenuntiltenderandbrowned,tossingonceortwice,15to20minutes.
HOWTOBRAISE
HOWTOBRAISE(Forartichokes,broccoli,brusselssprouts,cauliflower)TrimartichokesasdescribedinPrepping;halvelengthwise(leavebabyartichokeswhole).Trimbroccoliandcauliflowerstemsandseparateheadsintolargeflorets.Trimbrusselssprouts.Heatoliveoilorbutterinalargeskilletovermediumhigh.Addvegetablesandenoughliquid(chickenorvegetablebroth,orwater)tocover.Bringtoaboil,reduceheat,andcover.Simmeruntilfork-tender,8to10minutes(20minutesforfull-sizeartichokes).Seasonwithsaltandpepperandservewithlemonwedges.
HOWTOGRILL(Forartichokes,broccoli,cauliflower)Trimfull-sizeartichokesasdescribedinPrepping.Steamfor20minutes,thenhalveandscoopoutthechoke.Trimbabyartichokes,andleavewholeorcutinhalf.Trimbroccoliandcauliflowerstemsandpeelouterlayerofstalks.Cutdiagonallyinto½-inch-thickslices.Brushcutsidesofvegetableswitholiveoil;seasonwithsaltandpepper.Grillovermedium,directlyongratesorinagrillbasket,turningasneeded,untiltenderandcharredinspots,5to12minutes,dependingonsize.
FLAVORPAIRINGSBroccoli,cauliflower,andbrusselssproutsarestrong-tastingvegetableswhoseflavorisbroughttonewlifebyotherpotentingredients—bacon,garlic,andmustardareallgoodexamples.Artichokeshaveasubtlertaste.Commonlypairedwithbutter,theyarealsoenlivenedbyherbsandlemon.Onethingnottoservewithartichokesiswine:theartichokesblockyourtastebuds’abilitytoappreciatethewine.Mildblossomswillenlivenanydishfeaturingtheherborvegetabletheybloomfrom—butcanbeoverwhelmedbystrongflavors,soreservethemforsubtlercombinations.
ARTICHOKES:butter,toastedbreadcrumbs,garlic,Parmesan,onions,parsley,thymeBROCCOLI:garlic,anchovy,red-pepperflakes,lemon,mustard,cheddar,Parmesan,sausageBRUSSELSSPROUTS:bacon,walnuts,lemon,Pecorino,mustard,parsley,appleciderCAULIFLOWER:cheddar,mustard,curry,apple,garlic,parsley,saffron,raisins,anchovyCHIVEBLOSSOMS:eggs,ricotta,potatoes,salads,creamsoups,salmon,crèmefraîcheSQUASHBLOSSOMS:basil,ricotta,Parmesan,mozzarella,eggs,tomato,cilantro,shrimp
THERECIPES
NasturtiumSaladwithArtichokesandAsparagus
BucatiniwithCauliflower,Capers,andLemon
Oven-FriedBabyArtichokes
SmokyBrusselsSproutsGratin
BroiledStripedBasswithCauliflowerandCapers
RoastedCauliflowerwithHerbSauce
CrispedBrusselsSproutLeaves
Squash-BlossomFrittata
GoatCheesewithEdibleFlowersandArugula
Broccoli,Shrimp,andShiitakeStir-Fry
BraisedChickenandBrusselsSprouts
CapelliniwithChiveBlossoms
RoastedBroccoliwithGratedManchego
1
4
1212411
¼
¼
¾
NasturtiumSaladwithArtichokesandAsparagusNasturtiumblossomsand
leavesmakebeautiful,tastyadditionstosoups,pastadishes,andsalads,including
thisharbinger-of-springdishthatfeaturesartichokesandpurplepotatoes.Youcanfindnasturtiumsinarangeofhuesat
farmers’markets.SERVES4
lemon,halved
largeartichokes,trimmed(seePrepping)Coarsesaltandfreshlygroundpepper
ouncessmallpotatoes,preferablypurpleorblue,scrubbedouncesasparagus,toughendstrimmedandspearscutonthebiasinto2-inchpiecescupsspicymixedsaladgreens,suchastatsoi,arugula,andwatercresscupnasturtiumsandchiveblossoms,plusmoreforgarnishbunchradishes,thinlysliced
cupDijonmustard
cuprice-winevinegar(unseasoned)
cupsaffloweroil
1.Bring1inchofwatertoaboilinalargepot.Squeezejuiceoflemonintopot.Setasteamerbasketinpot.Addartichokes,seasonwithsalt,cover,andsteam20minutes.Addpotatoestosteamer.Continuesteaminguntilpotatoesandartichokesareeasilypiercedwiththetipofasharpknife,12to15minutes.Letcooltoroomtemperature.
2.Meanwhile,bring2inchesofwatertoaboilinasaucepan.Generously
seasonwithsalt.Addasparagusandboiluntilcrisp-tender,about1minute.Transfertoanice-waterbathuntilcool.Drainandpatdry.
3.Removepetalsfromartichokesandreserve.Scoopoutchokesfromheartswithaspoon,thensliceheartslengthwiseintoquarters.Slicepotatoesinto¼-inch-thickrounds.Divideartichokehearts,potatoes,asparagus,greens,flowers,andradishesamongfourplates.
4.Whisktogethermustardandvinegarinabowl.Addoilinaslow,steadystream,whiskingconstantly,untildressingisemulsified.Seasongenerouslywithsaltandpepper.
5.Lightlydrizzlesaladsevenlywithsomeofthedressingandgarnishwithmoreflowers.Serveremainingdressingwithreservedartichokepetalsontheside.
1
5
¼
¼
113½
BucatiniwithCauliflower,Capers,andLemon
We’vetakensomelibertieswiththeItalianpairingofcauliflowerandpastainthecookingmethodhere.First,thepastaissimmeredinanovenproofskilletwithwater,oil,andseasonings,thenit’stoppedwithcauliflower,capers,andParmigiano-Reggiano,
andbroiledtofinish.Youcouldusethissametechniquewithbroccoli,too.
SERVES4
poundbucatini
cupswater
cupextra-virginoliveoil,plusmorefordrizzlingFreshoreganosprigs,plus1tablespoonchoppedleaves
teaspoonred-pepperflakes,plusmoreforservingCoarsesalt
teaspoonfinelygratedlemonzestand2tablespoonsfreshlemonjuice,pluswedgesforservingheadcauliflower,stemtrimmedandfloretsfinelychopped(about4cups)tablespoonscapers,preferablysalt-packed,rinsedanddrainedcupfinelygratedParmigiano-Reggianocheese,plusmoreforserving1.Heatbroilerwithrack8inchesfromheatingelement.Combinepasta,thewater,2tablespoonsoil,1oreganosprig,red-pepperflakes,and2teaspoonssaltinalarge,straight-sidedovenproofskillet.Bringtoaboilovermedium-highheat;continuecooking,stirringoccasionally,untilsauceismostlyreducedandpastaisaldente,accordingtopackageinstructions,about8minutes.Removefromheat;stirinlemonzestandjuice.
2.Inabowl,tosscauliflowerwithremaining2tablespoonsoil,½teaspoonsalt,thecapers,cheese,andoreganoleaves.Sprinkleoverpastainskillet.Broiluntilcauliflowerisgoldeninspotsandpastaisheatedthrough,about5minutes.Tosstocombine.Servewithmorecheeseandred-pepperflakes,adrizzleofoil,oreganosprigs,andlemonwedges.
1
½½
2⅔
18
Oven-FriedBabyArtichokesOnceyouremovetheouterleavesandtrimthestems,youcaneatbabyartichokesintheirentirety(there’snochoketoremove).Theyalsodon’ttakelongtocook,meaning
youcanquicklyfrythem(here,intheoven)untiltenderinsidebutgoldenbrownoutside.
SERVES6
largeeggyolk
teaspoonfinelygratedlemonzestplus2tablespoonslemonjuiceteaspoonmincedgarlic
tablespoonssalt-packedcapers,rinsedanddrainedcupextra-virginoliveoil
Flakyseasaltandfreshlygroundpepper
babyartichokes,trimmed(seePrepping)1.Preheatovento500°Fwithrackinlowestpositionandarimmedbakingsheetonrack(thishelpscrispartichokes).
2.Puréeyolk,lemonzestandjuice,garlic,andcapersinablenderuntilsmooth.Withmotorrunning,slowlyadd⅓cupoilinasteadystream;blenduntilmixtureisthickandcreamy.Seasongenerouslywithsaltandpepper.Transfercaperaïolitoaservingbowl.
3.Tossartichokeswithremaining⅓cupoilinabowl.Placeupsidedownonhotbakingsheet,androastuntilpetalsarecrispandartichokeheartsaretender,8to13minutes.Sprinklewithsalt,andserveimmediatelywithcaperaïoli.
2
2
2
⅔1½
⅔
SmokyBrusselsSproutsGratinThisholiday-worthysidedishwillwinovereventhebrusselssproutsaverse.ThesproutsareblanchedthencombinedwithgratedsmokedGoudainarich,creamy
gratin.
SERVES8
tablespoonsunsaltedbutter
tablespoonsall-purposeflour
cupswholemilk
Coarsesaltandfreshlygroundpepper
cupcoarselygratedsmokedGoudacheese(2ounces)poundsbrusselssprouts
cupfinelygratedagedGoudacheese(2ounces)Pinchofflakysmokedseasalt,suchasMaldon
1.Preheatovento375°F.Meltbutterinasaucepanovermediumheat.Addflourandwhiskuntilmixturebubblesslightlybuthasnotstartedtobrown,about2minutes.Graduallywhiskinmilk.Raiseheatandbringtoaboil,whiskingoften.Reduceheattolow,andcook,stirringoccasionallywithawoodenspoon,untilthickened,12to15minutes.Seasonwithcoarsesaltandpepper.Removefromheat.AddsmokedGouda;stiruntilmeltedandsmooth.
2.Meanwhile,blanchbrusselssproutsinapotofsaltedboilingwateruntiljusttender,3to4minutes.Drain,andtransfertoa2-quartbakingdish.
3.Pourcheesesauceoversprouts,andsprinklewithagedGoudaandsmokedseasalt.Bake,uncovered,untilbubblingandgolden,about25minutes.Serveimmediately.
13
423
2
BroiledStripedBasswithCauliflowerandCapers
Broilingcauliflowerisafasterwaythanroastingtoachieveasimilargolden-browntenderness.Wecombinecauliflowerwithsaltycapersandsweetgoldenraisins,fora
dishwithItalianflavors.Tomakeitameal,thecaulifloweristoppedwithstripedbassandbroiledsomemore.Anotherfirm-fleshedfish,suchashalibutorsalmon,canbe
substitutedforthestripedbass.
SERVES4
smallheadcauliflower,trimmedandcutinto½-inch-thickslicestablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil,plusmoreforservingCoarsesaltandfreshlygroundpepper
skin-onstripedbassfillets(eachabout6ounces)tablespoonssalt-packedcapers,rinsedanddrainedtablespoonsgoldenraisins
tablespoonssherryvinegar
Mixedfreshherbs,suchasparsley,tarragon,andchives
1.Heatbroilerwithrack6inchesfromheatingelement.Placecaulifloweronarimmedbakingsheetanddrizzlewith2tablespoonsoil;seasonwithsaltandpepper,thentosstocombine.Spreadinasinglelayerandbroiluntilcrisp-tenderandgoldenbrowninspots,about10minutes.
2.Drizzlefishwithremaining1tablespoonoil;seasongenerouslywithsaltandpepper.Placeontopofcauliflower,skinsideup,andaddcaperstosheet.Broiluntilfishisjustopaquethroughout,5to7minutes.Addraisinsandbroiljustuntilplumpandhot,about30seconds.Drizzlefishandvegetableswithvinegar,anddivideevenlyamongfourplates.Servesprinkledgenerouslywithherbsanddrizzledwithmoreoil.
TIPBroilersvaryinheatintensity;movetheracktoalowerpositionifthecauliflowerorfishisbrowningtoo
quickly,ortoahigherrackiftooslowly.
1
¾
½
½½
1½
2
RoastedCauliflowerwithHerbSauceWhenroastingcauliflower,thetransformationfromsturdyandbittertotenderandmildlysweetisarevelation.Here,thewholeheadiswrappedinparchmentandthen
steam-roastedtillit’stenderenoughtoscoopwithaspoon.
SERVES8
largeheadcauliflower
cupextra-virginoliveoil
Coarsesaltandfreshlygroundpepper
cuppackedchoppedfreshflat-leafparsley
cuppackedchoppedfreshcilantroleavesandstemsteaspoonmincedgarlic
teaspoonsDijonmustard
tablespoonssherryvinegar
1.Preheatovento450°F.Placecaulifloweronalargeparchment-linedrimmedbakingsheet.Brushwith¼cupoil;seasonwithsaltandpepper.Pullshortsidesofparchmentovercauliflowerandfoldoneendoverotherafewtimestoseal.Foldlongendsofparchmentundercauliflowertocreateapacket.Roastuntilknife-tender;about40minutes.Tearopenparchmentattop;continuetoroastuntilgoldenbrown,15to20minutesmore.
2.Stirtogetherparsley,cilantro,garlic,mustard,vinegar,andremaining½cupoilinasmallbowltocombine.Seasonwithsaltandpepper.Servecauliflowerwarm,withherbsaucealongside.
11
1¼
¼
CrispedBrusselsSproutLeavesRoastingbrusselssproutleavesturnsthemcrispandcrunchy.Simpleseasoningsareallthat’sneeded;sproutsdowellwithbrightflavorslikelemonzestandrichingredientssuchashazelnutsandnuttycheeses(here,PecorinoRomano).Asgreatasthisisasa
sidedish,theleavesalsomakeatastytoppingforpizza.
SERVES6
poundbrusselssprouts,trimmed,leavesseparatedtablespoonextra-virginoliveoil
tablespoonfinelygratedlemonzest,pluslemonwedgesforservingcuphazelnuts,coarselychopped
Coarsesaltandfreshlygroundpepper
cupfinelygratedPecorinoRomanocheese(1ounce)Preheatovento375°F.Onarimmedbakingsheet,tossbrusselssproutleaveswithoil,zest,andhazelnuts.Seasonwithsaltandpepper.Roastuntilleavesarecrispandgoldenaroundedges,10to12
minutes.Sprinklewithcheeseandservewithlemonwedges.
2
1
2
10
10
Squash-BlossomFrittataAnyonewhohaseverplantedzucchiniknowsit’shardtokeepupwiththesteadysupply(oronslaught!)ofvegetablesandflowers.Thus,gardenersarealwayslookingfornewwaystopreparethemboth.Forthissimpleandbeautifulfrittata,halftheblossomsare
stirredintotheeggs,andtherestarescatteredoverthetopalongwithmozzarella.
SERVES4TO6
tablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil
mediumonion,thinlysliced
tablespoonsmincedfreshcilantro
squashblossoms
largeeggs,lightlybeaten
Coarsesaltandfreshlygroundpepper
4 ouncesfreshmozzarellacheese,sliced
1.Preheatovento375°F.Heatoilinalargenonstickovenproofskilletovermedium.Addonion,cilantro,andhalfthesquashblossoms,andcook,stirring,1minute.Addeggs,seasonwithsaltandpepper,andtransfertooven.
2.Bakeuntiljustset,about10minutes.Topwithmozzarellaandremainingsquashblossoms.Returntoovenuntilcheesemeltsandfrittataisgoldeninspots,about5minutesmore.Servewarm.
GoatCheesewithEdibleFlowersandArugulaWhenyouhaveabunchofedible
blossoms,lettheirvibrantcolorsdotheworkforyou.Simplymixchoppedflowers
(petalsandleaves)intosoftenedgoatcheese,thenshapeintoroundsandpatmoreflowersontop.Anyedibleflowerwillwork;pepperynasturtium,borage,
21
2
andpansyareshownhere.SERVES12
largelogs(11ounceseach)freshgoatcheese,roomtemperaturecuppackedarugula,coarselychopped
Freshlygroundpepper
cupslooselypackededibleblossomsandleaves,coarselychoppedCrackersorthinlyslicedbaguetterounds,forserving
1.Stironegoat-cheeseloginabowluntilsmooth.Mixinarugula,andseasonwithpepper.Inanotherbowl,stirremaininggoat-cheeseloguntilsmooth.Mixin1½cupsflowersandleaves,andseasonwithpepper.
2.Formeachmixtureintotwoorthreedisks(eachabout½inchthick).Rollinremainingblossoms.Placedisksonaparchment-linedbakingsheet,cover,andrefrigerateuntilchilled,about30minutes.Servewithcrackersorbaguetterounds.
1
1
3
2
¼
2
1112
Broccoli,Shrimp,andShiitakeStir-FryThebriefhigh-heatcookingofstir-fryingsuitsbroccoli,sinceyouwantittoretainsomeofitscrunch,andthecolorbrightensaswell.Here,broccoliiscombinedwithshiitakemushroomsandshrimp;you’llwanttousethesimplegarlic-ginger-soy-saucemixture
inotherstir-fries,too.Serveoversteamedwhiteorbrownrice.
SERVES4
garlicclove,thinlysliced
teaspoonfinelygratedpeeledfreshginger
tablespoonsricevinegar(unseasoned)
tablespoonslow-sodiumsoysauce
teaspoonred-pepperflakes
tablespoonssaffloweroil
poundfreshshiitakemushrooms,stemmedandhalved(largeonesquartered)poundlargeshrimp(16to20count),peeledanddeveinedheadbroccoli,separatedintosmallflorets(2cups)scallions,finelychopped,forserving
1.Stirtogethergarlic,ginger,vinegar,soysauce,andred-pepperflakesinasmallbowl.
2.Inawokorlargeskillet,heatoilovermediumhigh.Addmushroomsandcook,stirring,justuntiltender,about5minutes.Stiringarlicmixtureandcookuntilslightlyreduced,about2minutes.
3.Addshrimpandbroccoli,andcook,stirring,untilshrimpareopaquethroughoutandbroccoliiscrisp-tender,3to4minutes.Toserve,topwithscallions.
1
1
1
2
1
¼
½
2
BraisedChickenandBrusselsSproutsAfteryearsofbeingovercooked,underappreciated,andgenerallyscorned,brusselssproutsarefinallygettingtheirdue.Insteadofboilingthem(todeath),cookshave
championedahostofwaystopreparethem,includingroastingandshavingintoslawsandsalads.Thisone-pandinnerpresentsanotheroption:Sautéhalvedsproutsuntil
golden,thenoven-braisewithchickenuntilperfectlytender.
SERVES4
tablespoonextra-virginoliveoil
wholechicken(3to4pounds),cutinto10piecesCoarsesaltandfreshlygroundpepper
poundbrusselssprouts,trimmedandhalved
mediumshallots,thinlysliced
tablespoonDijonmustard
cupapplecidervinegar
cuplow-sodiumchickenbroth
tablespoonsheavycream
1.Preheatovento375°F.Inalargeovenproofskillet,heatoilovermediumhigh.Seasonchickenalloverwithsaltandpepper.Workinginbatches,cookchickenuntilbrowned,about6minutesperside.Transfertoaplate,thenaddbrusselssproutsandshallotstopan.Sautéuntilgoldenbrown,about3minutes.Stirinmustardandcook,stirring,1minute.Addvinegarandbroth,returnchickentopan,andbringtoarapidsimmer.
2.Transferpantoovenandbraiseuntilchickeniscookedthrough,20to25minutes.Removefromoven.Addheavycreamtopanandswirltocombine;seasonwithsaltandpepper,andserve.
1
¼¼1
8
1
1
CapelliniwithChiveBlossomsThelovelypurpleblossomsthatappearwhenchiveshavematuredtastejustlikethe
herb,onlyinflowerform.Suchaneye-catchingcomponentinstantlymakesanydish—scrambledeggs,creamysoups,mashedpotatoes,evenpasta—moreappealing.
SERVES4TO6
cupcrèmefraîche
cupmincedchiveblossoms,plusmoreforgarnishcupsnippedfreshchives,plusmoreforgarnishto2teaspoonslemonjuice
Coarsesaltandfreshlygroundpepper
ouncescapellinipasta
tablespoonunsaltedbutter
jar(4ounces)whitefishcaviar
1 hard-cookedegg,yolkandwhiteseparated
1.Stirtogether¾cupcrèmefraîche,thechiveblossoms,chives,andlemonjuicetotasteinabowl.Seasonwithsalt.
2.Cookpastainalargepotofsaltedboilingwateruntilaldente,accordingtopackageinstructions.Reserve¾cuppastawater;drainpasta.Tosspastawithbutterandcrème-fraîchemixture,addingenoughpastawatertomakealightsauce.Seasonwithsaltandpepper.
3.Placeasmalldollopofremainingcrèmefraîcheineachoffourtosixdishes,andsprinklewithchiveblossomsandchives.Dividepastaamongdishes.Topwithcaviarandmorecrèmefraîche.Presseggwhiteandyolkthroughasieve,thensprinkleoverpasta.Serveimmediately.
2
4
2
¼
1⅓
RoastedBroccoliwithGratedManchegoThere’sboiledandsteamedbroccoliblanketedwithmeltedcheese,andthenthere’sthisupgrade.Roastingturnsbroccolibrownandtenderanddelicious.Wecooktheflorets
andthe(peeledandthinlysliced)stalkstogether,thenfinishwithaspritzoflemonjuiceandadustingofManchego—anuttysheep’s-milkcheesefromSpain.
SERVES6
largeheadsbroccoli
garliccloves,smashed
tablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil
to½teaspoonred-pepperflakes
Coarsesalt
tablespoonfreshlemonjuice,pluswedgesforservingcupfinelygratedManchego
cheese,forserving1.Preheatovento450°Fwithracksinupperandlowerthirds.Trim1inchfromendofbroccolistalks.Cutoffflorets,andseparateintolargepieces.Usingavegetablepeelerorparingknife,peelouterlayerofstalks;thinlyslicecrosswise.
2.Dividebroccoli(stalksandflorets),garlic,oil,andred-pepperflakesbetweentwolargerimmedbakingsheets;seasonwithsalt.Tosstocombine,thenspreadevenlyonsheets.Roastuntilbroccoliiscrisp-tenderandbeginningtobrown,20to25minutes,rotatingsheetsfromtoptobottomandtossingbroccolioncehalfwaythrough.
3.Sprinklebroccoliwithlemonjuice;tosstocoat.Serve,toppedwithcheeseandlemonwedges.
AVOCADOS
CUCUMBERS
EGGPLANTS
PEPPERSANDCHILES
SUMMERSQUASHES
TOMATILLOS
TOMATOES
WINTERSQUASHES
FRUITS
It’s a riddle befitting the Mad Hatter, this when-is-a-vegetable-not-a-vegetablequestion.But it takesmorethanjust tea-party nonsense to make tomatoes, peppers, andavocadosqualifyasbotanicalfruits.Bydefinition,fruitsareseed packages—a plant’s bid for future generations—wrapped in delectable, fragrant flesh, covered by a skinwhose color appeals to hungry animals. A form ofcommunication not just between species but also acrosstaxonomic kingdoms, fruits tempt mobile creatures intoacting as agents for the plant, carrying the seeds in theirdigestive tracts, and thendepositing them far fromhome.Even the fieriest chiles utilize the services of birds todistribute their seeds; certain species of tropical birds areimmunetothechiles’heat.
Sowhydowecallcertainfruitsvegetables?Theanswerissurprisinglyunscientific.Sometimesithastodowiththeirsugarcontent.Tomatoes, forexample,areabout3percentsugar, while peaches and plums are 10 percent. But thatruledoesn’tapplytowintersquashessuchasbutternutsandpumpkins,whicharenotonlysweetbutalsoascomfortablyathomeonthedessertplateasonthedinnerplate.Inthosecases, the classification seems to have to do with the factthatwenevereatthemraw,aswedowithotherfruits.Yetavocadosandcucumbersarealmostalwayseatenraw,andweconsider themvegetables; in theircase, it’sbackto thesugar content. Ultimately, one fact escapes confusion: These fruits areamongthemostpopularinthevegetablekingdom.
THEBASICS
SEASONALITYNearlyallthesefruits/vegetablesaresummerbabies,turningbrightandplumpinthehotsunofJulyandAugust.Sweetpeppersandchilesripenintoearlyfall.And,astheirnameimplies,wintersquashesmatureincoolweather;harvestedSeptemberthroughNovember(“autumnsquashes”wouldbeamoreaptname),theyaresoldthroughoutthewinter,whentheirrich,earthyflavorsareappreciated.
BUYINGFruitsacquireflavors,sugars,andnutrientsfromtheparentplant,sothebestonesareallowedtoripeninthefieldandsoldclosetowherethey’regrown.Inotherwords,thiscategoryisespeciallyworthseekingoutatfarmstandsandgreenmarkets.Lookforcucumbers,peppers,tomatoes,summersquash(includingzucchini),andeggplantsthatfeeltautandsmooth-skinned,andareheavyfortheirsize,withvivid,deepcolor.Thesamecriteriaapplytowintersquashsuchashubbard,butternut,andkabocha.Asforsize,itdoesn’tmuchmatterexceptwitheggplantsandsummersquash—thesmalleronesarefarsuperiorintexturebecausetheircellwallstoughenandfillwithwaterastheygrow,becomingstringy,bland,andwatery.Asfortomatillos,selectthosewithloose,paperyhusksandnobruises.Theexceptiontotheclose-to-homeruleisavocados:TheyoriginatedinMexicoandGuatemala,andsothebestU.S.-grownonescomefromCaliforniaandFlorida.Avocadosarepickedhardandtheyripenonlyafterharvest.Becausetheybruiseeasilywhenripe,it’sbesttobuythemwhenthey’restillfirmandletthemsoftenathome,placingtheminapaperbagonthekitchencounteruntilbarelysoft.
NOTABLEVARIETIESAvocados:Atanytimeofyear,therewillbeanavocadoinseason,andit’sworthlookingforthematfarmers’marketsinCaliforniaandFlorida,andatspecialtyfoodstoreseverywhereelse.MostCaliforniavarietiesoriginatedinGuatemala:thewell-knownHassavocado;pear-shapedFuerte,withskinthatremainsbrightgreen,even
whenveryripe;androundReed,withthickgreenskinthat’seasytopeel.InFlorida,youaremorelikelytofindWestIndianvarietiessuchasBooth,Lula,andTaylor,whichcomeintoseasoninthemiddleofsummer.Mexicanvarietiestendtobeonthesmallerside;themostpopulararetheBacon(slightlybrownishskinthat’seasytopeel)andtheZutano(jadegreenskinandcreamyyellowflesh).
Cucumbers:Manyso-calledslicingcucumbersarecultivatedtohaveseedsthatarebarelyperceptible,withverytenderskins,meaningnoseedingorpeelingisrequired.BesidesEnglishcucumbers,therearelittlePersiancucumbersandstrikingArmeniancucumberswithpalestripedskin,smooth-skinnedMediterranean(orLebanese)cucumbers,andlong,dark-greenJapanesecucumbers,whichresembleEnglishonesbuthavebumpyskins.Picklingcucumberstendtobeshorter,thicker,andbumpier;KirbyandLibertyarethemostcommonofthese.
Eggplants:Thisfruitiscultivatedaroundtheworldinarangeofcolors,shapes,andsizesthatgobeyondtheheftydark-purpleglobesfoundinourgrocerystores.ItalianbreedsincludeBarbarella,whichcangrowuptohalfafootwideandnearlyaslong;squat,ovalBeatrice,whichismildandcreamy;streaky,thick-skinnedNubia;andwhiteClaraeggplants,whicharemeatyandmild.ChineseandJapaneseeggplantsaretypicallylong,slim,anddelicatetasting,whilethesmaller,rounderAsianvarietiessuchasCalliope(orIndian)andKermits(orThai)arefastcookingandrarelybitter.You’llknowGraffitieggplantsbytheirvioletandwhitestripeswithvelvetyflesh;atamere2to4inches,FairyTalesarelessseedythanglobesand,hence,lessbitter.
Peppersandchiles:Thesecomeinmanydifferentshapes,colors,andheatlevels.Amongbellpeppers,therearePurpleBell,ChocolateBeauty,andDove(white-orivory-skinned).Hotchilesinclude:Anaheim,fromNewMexico;Cascabel;Cayenne;Chilaca,thenameforagreenfruitofapasillapepper,whichtranslatesas“littleraisin”owingtoitsdrieddark-brownpods;Chiltepin,theclosestthingtotheoriginalwildpepper(and,whendried,theworld’ssecond-most-expensivespice,aftersaffron);Cubanelle,alongsweetpepperthat’salsoknownasItalianfryingpepper;Manzano;Padrón(orshishito)peppers;andAsianchilessuchasThaiHotandThaiBird.Waxpeppers,socalledfortheirshiny,polished-lookingskins,includeHungarianWax,SanteFeGrande,andYellowBanana.
Summersquashes:Thevastrangemaycomeasasurprisetomanyofus.CrooknecksquashsuchasHornofPlentyareso-namedfortheircurvaceousshapes.PattypansquashsuchasButterScalloparealsonamedfortheirsquatshapes.Babysquash,
includingButterstickandSunburst,arepickedwhenyoung.Ofthestraight-neckedvarieties,there’sZebraZuke,astrikingzucchiniwithlight-anddark-greenstripes,andtwo-tonedZephyrs.Thenthereareroundvarieties,includingRondedeNice,anheirloomzucchiniwithcreamyfleshandtenderskin;Cousa,usedinMiddleEasterncooking,whichistenderandsweet;andTatuma,aMexicanvarietythatresemblesCousabutwithaverythinskin(andveryfewseeds).
Tomatoes:Everyone’sfavoritesummerfruitbegstobeexplored;startwithexceptionallysweetSunGold,atypeofcherrytomatowithagolden-orangeflesh.Thentherearehundredsofheirloomvarieties:Brandywinehasexcellentflavorandslightlypurpleskinwhenripe;roundBlackRussianhasarichflavor,whilePurpleRussianisameatyplumtomato;CherokeePurpleisabeefsteak-styletomatoprizedforitsexceptionalflavor;SpeckledRomanisanotherexcellentplumtomato;BigRainbowisrichandmelony;BlackCherryiscomplexandmild,withaslightacidtang;GreenDoctorissweet,withgoodacidicbalance;Reisetomatehasstrongtomatoflavor;GreenZebraandYellowPeachareslightlytart;andJauneFlammeiswonderfullyfruity.
Wintersquashes:Similartogourdsthatareharvestedinthesummer,thosethatarefoundinfallandwintercomeinanarrestingarrayofshapes,colors,textures,andsizes.Calabaza(orWestIndianPumpkin)hasasweet,juicygoldenfleshsimilartobutternut;delicatahasfine,creamyfleshandtenderskinthatcanbeeaten(aswithacornsquash);bumpy-skinnedhubbardshavethick,sweetmeat;HokkaidosarechoiceJapanesevarietieswithdry,flaky,sweetflesh;kabochaisanotherJapanesevarietywithasimilartasteandtexture;NewEnglandPie(orSmallSugarPumpkin)hassmooth,verysweetfleshthat’sidealforpiemaking;single-serving-sizeSweetDumplingshavetwo-tonedskins;CheesePumpkin(namedforitsshape,whichresemblesaflattenedcheesebox)isfine-grainedandsweet;Cushawhassweet,moist,pale-yellowflesh;WhiteSwanisanacorn-typesquashinshapeandflavor,withcreamy-whiteskin;Rougevifd’Etampes,alsoknownasCinderella,isanheirloomFrenchvarietywithdense,flavorfulflesh.
STORINGTheruleofthumbwithstoringfruitsistomimictheclimateinwhichtheyripen.Tomatoes,avocados,eggplant,tomatillos,andpeppersareallhot-weather,full-sunshinecrops,andtheysuffercelldamageifrefrigerated—tomatoesturnmealy;eggplantsandavocadosgrowspongyandgray-browninside.Becausezucchiniandcucumbersgrowinthecoolshadeoftheirplants’broadleaves,theycanwithstanda
cucumbersgrowinthecoolshadeoftheirplants’broadleaves,theycanwithstandabriefspellofrefrigeration.Wintersquashesprefercooltemperaturesaround50°F,butwon’tbeharmedbyafewdaysintherefrigerator,ifyoucan’teatthemrightaway.
PREPPINGCutavocadoslengthwisearoundthepitandtwisttoseparatethehalves,thenusealargespoontoscoopouttheflesh,orpeelawaytheskinandslicetheflesh—dousingitwithcitrusjuiceorvinegarasyouworktokeepitfrombrowning.
Dependingonvariety,cucumbersmaybeseedyorseedless(aswithEnglishcucumbers),andmaybethin-skinnedorthick;thelattershouldbepeeledbeforeuse(especiallyifthey’rewaxed).Toremoveseeds,cutinhalflengthwise,thenscoopoutwithateaspoon.Don’tdressorsaltcucumbersuntiljustbeforeservingortheywillturnwatery.
Examinesummersquashclosely:manyneedonlyagoodrinse,butiftheylayagainstthedirtastheyripened,theymightneedagentlescrub.
Theskinofwintersquashescanbelinoleum-hard;ifyourrecipecallsforskinlesswedgesorchunks,itmaybenecessarytoslicethesquashintowedgesbeforeparingtheskinawaywithasmallknifeorpeeler.
Waterbetweenthecellwallsgiveseggplantitsspongytexture;roastingorbakingevaporatesit,butifyou’refryingeggplantorusingitinstews,youcanmakethefleshfirmerbysaltingtheslicesfirst,andlayingtheminacolanderoronaracktodrain.
Tocutrawsweetpeppers,standthemonendandcutthefleshfromtoptobottom;removeribsandseedswithaknife.Whencuttingchiles,alwaysusegloves,anddon’ttouchyoureyesornoseoranyothersensitiveareasuntilyou’vewashedyourhands.Leaveribsandseedsunlessyoupreferamilderheat.
Removetomatillos’paperyhusksbeforecooking,andrinseoffthestickycoating(frombitter-tastingsaponins)onthefruits’skin.
Asfortomatoes,ifyouwishtoremovetheirskins,cutasmall,shallowXintotheskinattheroundedend,dunktheminrapidlyboilingwaterfor15seconds,thentransfertoanice-waterbath.Theskinwilleasilypeelaway.Otherwise,toremovetheseedyflesh,coreandquartertomatoeslengthwise,flatteneachpiecewiththeinsideup,andscrapeitcleanwithaknife;thenyoucaneasilycutthosepiecesintoa
finediceorasdesired.
COOKINGMostfruitsareincrediblyversatilewhenitcomestocooking.Evenavocadoscanbegrilledorbroileduntilcharred(perfectfortoppingtoasts),andcucumberstakewelltosautéing.Summersquashrespondswelltoarangeoftreatments,andisalsoexcellentgratedandfriedintocrispcakesorfritters,orbakedintoquickbreads.Tomatoesandpepperscanbecookedalmostanywhichway—stewed,baked,roasted,simmered,puréed.Althoughtomatillosarerelatedtotomatoes,they’remuchlessversatileandbestusedtomakesaucesandsalsas;tryroastingthetomatillosfirstuntilblackenedtoaddasmoky,charredflavor.Eggplant,too,isfussyabouthowit’sprepared;itsspongyfleshquicklybecomeswaterloggedorleadenwithoilifdrenched.However,roastingorgrilling—dryheattechniques—compressesitsfleshandundoesthemealiness.Ifyoustartwithwholeorhalvedroastedeggplants,youcanscoopoutthecreamyinsidestomakebabaganoushandotherpurées;slicesorchunksturnalmostmeaty,andcanbetossedintosaucesandspreads,orusedtotoppizza.Wintersquashescanberoasted(wholeorcutintopieces),simmeredinsoupsandstews,braised,baked(withorwithoutstuffing),boiledandmashedorpuréed,orsteamed.
HOWTOSTEAM(Foreggplants,summersquashes,wintersquashes)Cuteggplantandsummersquashinto1-inch-thickrounds;peelandseedwintersquashandcutinto1-inchpieces.Placeinasteamerbasket(orcolander)setinapotwith2incheswater.Bringtoaboil,cover,andsteamuntiltender,5to10minutes.Drizzlewitholiveoilandseasonwithsaltandpepper.
HOWTOROAST(Foreggplants,summersquashes,wintersquashes)Cuteggplantandsummersquashintouniformpieces(cubes,rounds,orlengthwisestrips).Peelwintersquashes(exceptacornanddelicata,whichdonotneedtobepeeled)andremoveseeds.Drizzlewitholiveoil,seasonwithsaltandpepper,andtosstocombine.Spreadevenlyonarimmedbakingsheetandroastat450°F,tossingonceortwice,untiltenderandgoldenbrown,20to30minutes.
(Forpeppersandchiles)Roastwholepeppersandchilesdirectlyovertheflameofagasburneruntil
Roastwholepeppersandchilesdirectlyovertheflameofagasburneruntilblackenedandblistered,turningwithkitchentongs(alternately,roastunderthebroiler).Placeinabowl,cover,andletsteamabout10minutes.Ruboffskinwithpapertowels;useaparingknifeforstubbornspots.Cutasdesiredorspecifiedinarecipeandremoveribsandseedsofbellpeppers;leaveribsandseedsinchilesformoreheat.Tosswitholiveoilandsaltandpepper,totaste.
(Fortomatoes)Halveplumtomatoesandarrange,cutsideup,onarimmedbakingsheet.Brushwitholiveoil,andseasonwithsaltandpepper;addafewherbsprigs,suchasthymeororegano,alongwithsomeslicedgarliccloves.Slow-roastina350°Fovenuntilsoftened,about1hour.Letcoolandrefrigerate,covered,upto5days.
HOWTOSAUTÉ(Forallfruitexceptavocados)Leavecherryorgrapetomatoeswholeorcutinhalf;halveplumtomatoes,scoopoutpulpifdesired,andthenfinelychopflesh.Halvecucumberslengthwiseandscoopoutanyseeds.Halvepeppersandchiles,andremoveribsandseedsfrompeppers.Huskandrinsetomatillos.Peelandseedwintersquash.Cutvegetablesinto1-inchpieces;summersquashcanalsobegratedonthelargeholesofaboxgrater.Heatoliveoilorbutterinalargeskilletovermediumhigh.Addvegetables;seasonwithsaltandpepper.Cook,stirringoccasionally,untiltenderandgoldenbrown,10to15minutes,dependingonsizeofpieces.Sprinklewithlemonjuiceorvinegar,seasonwithsalt,andtopwithchoppedfreshherbs.
HOWTOGRILL(Foravocados)Brushahalvedavocado(peeledandpitted)withlimejuiceandoliveoil.Grillovermediumheat,cutsidedown,1to2minutes.Rotatetocreatecross-hatchmarks,andgrill1minutemore.Seasonwithsaltandpepper.
(Foreggplantsandsummersquashes)Cuteggplantandsummersquashinto½-inch-thickslices.Brushbothsideswitholiveoil,andseasonwithsaltandpepper.Grillovermedium-highheatuntilcharredinspots,about5minutes;flipslicesandcookuntilcharredonotherside,about5minutesmore.Drizzlewithmoreoilandsprinklewithchoppedherbs.
(Forpeppersandchiles)Halvebellpepperslengthwise,andremoveribsandseeds.Grillovermedium-highheat,cutsidesdown,untilbeginningtosoften,about5minutes;flippeppersandcookuntilcharredinspots,about5minutesmore.Cutintothinstrips.Tosswith
cookuntilcharredinspots,about5minutesmore.Cutintothinstrips.Tosswitholiveoil,andseasonwithsaltandpeppertotaste.
(Fortomatoes)Halveplumtomatoeslengthwise.Tosswitholiveoil,andseasonwithsaltandpepper.Grillovermedium-highheat,cutsidesdown,untilcharredinspots,about5minutes;fliptomatoesandcookuntilcharredonotherside,about5minutesmore.
FLAVORPAIRINGSNewWorldnatives—tomatoes,summersquashes,sweetpeppers,andchiles—allpairbeautifullywithoneanother,andwithmostMexicanandCentralAmericanflavorings:corn,cilantro,onions,lime.ButtheyareequallyathomeinMediterraneandishesflavoredwitholiveoil,oregano,thyme,orbasil.Andtheycomplementavarietyofcheeses,includingsharpParmesan,chalkyfetaandcotija,andmildandmilkymozzarella.Combinedwitheggplant,theybecometheclassicProvençalratatouille.Eggplantcangoinmanyotherdirectionsaswell—itssmoky,slightlybitterflavorcomplementsdeeplyumamimisoinJapanesedishesortahiniandlemoninMiddleEasterndishes.TomatillosturnupmostofteninMexicansauces,pairedwithonion,garlic,andsometimespulverizedpumpkinseeds.Butteryavocadoisenlivenedbyallkindsofcitrus—grapefruit,lime,lemon,orange—aswellassaltybaconandfreshherbs.Andchiles,whetherfreshordried,wholeorground,bringheatandflavortochicken,shrimp,beef,pork,vegetable,andgraindishestheworldover,fromThailandtotheCaribbean,ItalytoIndia,MexicotoMorocco.
AVOCADO:chiles,cilantro,lime,crab,shrimp,tomato,bacon,redonionCHILES:tomatoes,lime,cilantro,currypowder,cumin,coconut,onions,garlic,sugar,chicken,shellfish,pork,beefCUCUMBER:mint,dill,vinegar,onion,yogurt,garlic,lemon,salmonEGGPLANT:mozzarella,tomatoes,basil,anchovies,soysauce,sesame,yogurt,lentilsSUMMERSQUASHES:basil,tomato,ricotta,eggplant,chiles,parsley,oregano,garlicSWEETPEPPERS:onions,garlic,sausage,tomatoes,vinegar,potatoes,goatcheeseTOMATILLOS:cilantro,onion,garlic,tomatoes,tequila,fish,chicken,pork,avocadoTOMATOES:basil,thyme,mint,garlic,onion,peppers,goatcheese,mozzarella,fennelWINTERSQUASHES:sage,nutmeg,butter,bacon,maple,coconut,ginger
THERECIPES
PastawithMarinatedHeirloomTomatoes
BlisteredEggplantwithTomatoes,Olives,andFeta
MisoEggplant
BreadedEggplantwithArugulaandParmesan
TomatoandMangoSalad
Zucchini-ScallionFritters
PastawithZucchini,Mint,andPecorino
ZucchiniQuickBread
SkilletSteakPeperonata
PickledJalapeñosandCucumbers
BlisteredPadrónPepperswithSeaSalt
WholeBakedTroutwithCherryTomatoesandPotatoes
Zucchini“Pasta”Primavera
RoastedBellPeppers
TomatilloandChipotleSalsa
ChilesRellenos
Cucumber,Mango,andShrimpEscabèche
ChilledMelon,Cucumber,andMintSoup
StuffedTomatoeswithMozzarella
SalmonandAvocadoTartines
PistachioGuacamole
Roasted-TomatoHandPies
ButternutSquashandTaleggioPizza
RoastedAcornSquash,ThreeWays
ButternutSquashandKaleHash
5
½
2
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1
PastawithMarinatedHeirloomTomatoesHeirloomtomatoes,designatedassuchbecausetheseedshavebeensavedbygrowersovergenerations,arecelebratedfortheirimperfections(unlikecommerciallygrown
hybrids,bredfordurabilityanduniformityratherthantaste).Here,wemarinatethemforahalfhourwithgarlicoilandotherseasoningstocreateano-cooksaucethat’s
tossedwithribbonsofpasta.
SERVES8
garliccloves,thinlysliced
cupextra-virginoliveoil
poundsassortedheirloomtomatoes,slicedintowedges
cupfreshbasil,torniflarge
tablespoonscapers,preferablysalt-packed,rinsedanddrained,choppediflargeteaspoonsfinelygratedlemonzest,plusmoreforserving
teaspoonred-pepperflakes
Coarsesaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper
poundflatpastasuchasmaltagliati,cookeduntilaldente
1.Warmgarlicandoilinasaucepanoverlowheatuntilgarlicispalegold,about10minutes.Strain;reserveoilandgarlic.Letcool.
2.Combinetomatoes,¼cupbasil,thecapers,lemonzest,andred-pepperflakesinalargebowl,andseasonwithsalt.Pourgarlicoilandgarlicchipsovertomatomixture.Coverandletmarinate,tossingoccasionally,30minutes.
3.Meanwhile,cookpastainapotofgenerouslysaltedboilingwateruntilaldente,accordingtopackageinstructions.Drain.
4.Addwarmpastatotomatomixtureandtossgentlytocombine.Topwithremaining½cupbasilandthelemonzest,seasonwithblackpepper,andserve.
TIPForthisdish,boilthepastaaboutfiveminutesbeforethetomatoesareready.Thewarmthwillbringouttheflavorsofthefreshingredients.
1
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1¾
6
½
BlisteredEggplantwithTomatoes,Olives,andFeta
Thissaladoffersahealthieralternativetofryingeggplant:Theroundsaresimplybroiledonawirerackuntilblistered,thentossedwitholiveoil.
SERVES4
largeeggplant,cutinto¼-inch-thickrounds
cupextra-virginoliveoil,plusmorefordrizzling
poundsmixedtomatoes
Coarsesaltandfreshlygroundpepper
ouncesfetacheese,crumbled
cupmixedolives
½ cuplightlypackedfreshflat-leafparsleyleaves
1.Heatbroilerwithrack6inchesfromheatsource.Placeeggplantroundsonawireracksetonarimmedbakingsheet.Broiluntileggplantisblisteredanddeepbrownononeside,10to12minutes.Flipandbroiluntilblisteredonotherside,10to12minutes.Immediatelytransfertoalargebowl,tosswithoil,andcoverwithaplate.Letstanduntilsoftened,about10minutes.
2.Arrangeeggplantandtomatoesonaplatter,seasoningeachlayerwithsaltandpepperanddrizzlingwithoilbeforeaddingnextlayer.Topwithfeta,olives,andparsley,andserve.
¾
5
5
5
41
MisoEggplantInspiredbyarecipeofchefNobuMatsuhisa,ownerofcelebratedrestaurantsaround
theworld,thisdishfeaturesasavory-sweet,irresistiblemisoglaze.
SERVES6TO8
cupwhite(shiro)miso
tablespoonssugar
tablespoonssake
tablespoonsmirin
Oliveoil,forfrying
Japaneseeggplants(about6ounceseach),halvedlengthwiseandfleshscoredinacross-hatchpatterntablespoonsesameseeds,toasted
Smallcilantrosprigs,forserving
1.Combinemisoandsugarinaheavy-bottomedsaucepan.Whiskinsakeandmirin.Bringtoasimmeroverlowheat,andcook,stirringfrequently,untilsugarisdissolvedandcolorbeginstodarken,30to45minutes.Removefromheat.
2.Heatbroilerwithrack4inchesfromheatsource.Linearimmedbakingsheetwithpapertowels.Inalargeheavy-bottomedsaucepan,heat2inchesofoilto360°F.Workinginbatches,placeeggplantsinpan,skinsideup,andfry1minute.Flipandfry30secondsmore.Transfertobakingsheet;letdrain.Returnoilto360°Fbetweenbatches.
3.Transfereggplants,skinsidedown,toanotherbakingsheet.Spreadeachhalfwith1heapingtablespoonmisomixture.Broiluntilmisobeginstocaramelize,1to2minutes.Sprinklewithsesameseedsandcilantro,andserve.
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1
2
2
BreadedEggplantwithArugulaandParmesan
OurvegetariantakeonvealMilaneseisbothcrisp(thankstothepanko)andtender(thankstothetextureofeggplant).Butusingeggplantasastand-informeatisnothingnew;Italianhomecookshavealongtraditionofbuildingmealsaroundthecreamy-
fleshed,earthy-tastingfruit,mostlyintheinterestoffrugality.
SERVES4
largeeggplant,cutlengthwiseinto1-inch-thickslices
Coarsesaltandfreshlygroundpepper
cupall-purposeflour
largeegg,whiskedwith1tablespoonwater
cupspankoorcoarsebreadcrumbs
Oliveoil,forfrying
cupsbabyarugula
ShavingsofParmigiano-Reggianocheese,forserving
Lemonwedges,forserving
1.Placeeggplantinalargecolanderandseasongenerouslywithsalt.Letstand30minutes,thenrinseandpatdry.
2.Placeflour,eggmixture,andbreadcrumbsinthreeseparateshallowbowls.Dredgeeacheggplantsliceinflour,turningtocoatandshakingoffexcess,thendipineggmixtureandcoatinbreadcrumbs.
3.Heat½inchoilina12-inchskilletovermedium.Workinginbatches,fryeggplantuntilgoldenandcrisp,about4minutesperside.Transfertoapaper-towel-linedplateandseasonwithsaltandpepper.
4.Topeachcutletwitharugulaandcheese,andservewithalemonwedge.
1
1
1
1
1
1
TomatoandMangoSaladCapturetheessenceofpeak-seasontomatoeswithtomatowater,anear-transparentliquidwiththesweettasteofthefreshfruit.Thissummerstarterfeaturescherry
tomatoes,cucumbers,mango,basil,andthinlyslicedchilebathingintomatoessence.
SERVES4
poundveryripetomatoes,coredandquartered
Coarsesalt
smallripemango
KirbyorPersiancucumber,cutintomatchsticks
pintcherrytomatoes,halvedorquarterediflarge
redThaiorserranochile,verythinlyslicedonthebias
tablespoonextra-virginoliveoil,plusmorefordrizzling
ThaiorItalianbasil,forserving
ThaiorItalianbasil,forserving
1.Puréetomatoesand¼teaspoonsaltinablenderuntilsmooth,about1minute.Lineacolanderwithfourlayersofdampenedcheeseclothandsetoveradeeppot.Pourtomatopuréeintocolander,coverwithplasticwrap,andrefrigerate,stirringoccasionally,until1to2cupstomatowaterhavedrippedintopot,about1day.Seasonwithsalt,ifdesired.
2.Peelmangoandcutfleshfrompit;discardpit.Cutfleshlengthwiseinto½-inchslices.Tossmango,cucumber,cherrytomatoes,chile,and1tablespoonoil.Seasonwithsaltanddividesaladamongfourbowls.Dividetomatoessenceamongbowls,topwithbasil,drizzlewithmoreoil,andserve.
1
1
2
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½
Zucchini-ScallionFrittersZucchiniisoftengrated,touseinslawsandrawsalads,muffinsorquickbreads,orvegetablefritters,asinthisrecipe.Thesquashisfirmenoughtoeasilyshredonthe
largeholesofaboxgrater,yetitcooksupsoftandtender.
SERVES4
poundzucchini(about2medium),coarselygrated
Coarsesaltandfreshlygroundpepper
largeegg
scallions,finelychopped
cupall-purposeflour
cupsaffloweroil
Sourcream,forserving
1.Placezucchiniinacolanderandtosswith1teaspoonsalt;letdrain10minutes.Pressoutasmuchliquidaspossiblewithawoodenspoonorflexiblespatula.
2.Whiskegginalargebowl;mixinzucchini,scallions,flour,and¼teaspoonpepperuntilcombined.Lineaplatewithpapertowels.
3.Heatoilinalargeskilletovermedium.Workinginbatches,dropsixmoundsofbatter(2tablespoonseach)intoskillet,thenflattenslightlywithbackofspoon.Cookuntilbrownedonfirstside,2to3minutes;flipfrittersandcookuntilbrownedonotherside,2to3minutesmore.Transfertothepaper-towel-linedplate;sprinklewithsalt.Servewithsourcream.
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3
2
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¼
⅔¼
PastawithZucchini,Mint,andPecorinoYoucanneverhaveenoughrecipesforzucchiniduringthesummer,especiallyifyougrowyourownorbelongtoaCSAgroup—thisisonevegetablethatflourishesin
abundance.Here,gratedzucchiniissautéedwithafewanchoviesuntiltender,thentossedwithaldentepastaandsomeofitscookingwater.FreshmintandsharpPecorino
Romanoaddflavorfulfinishes.
SERVES4
ouncesshortcurlypasta,suchasgemelliorfusilli
Coarsesaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper
tablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil,plusmorefordrizzling
anchovyfillets,preferablyoil-packed,rinsedandpatteddry
garliccloves,minced
poundszucchini(about5small),coarselygrated
teaspoonred-pepperflakes,plusmoreforserving
cupfinelygratedPecorinoRomanocheese,plusmoreforservingcuplightlypackedfreshmintleaves,chopped,plusmorewholeleavesforserving1.Cookpastainalargepotofgenerouslysaltedboilingwateruntilaldente,accordingtopackageinstructions.Reserve1½cupswater;drainpasta.
2.Heatalargeskilletovermediumhigh.Addoilandswirltocoat.Cookanchoviesandgarlic,stirring,justuntilanchoviesbreakdownandgarlicturnsgolden,about30seconds.Addzucchiniandred-pepperflakes;seasonwithsalt.Cook,stirringoccasionally,untilzucchiniistender,about5minutes.Addpastaand1cupreservedpastawater.Simmer,stirringoccasionally,untilliquidisreducedandslightlythickened,1to2minutes.
3.Removefromheat;stirincheeseandmint.Addmorepastawaterifneeded,afewtablespoonsatatime,untilsauceevenlycoatspasta.Serveimmediately,drizzledwithoilandsprinkledwithmint,blackpepper,red-pepperflakes,andcheese.
TIP
Coarselygratingzucchini,ratherthanslicingorchoppingit,helpsmakesurethevegetableisevenlydistributedwhentossedwiththepasta.Unlikeforfritters,youdon’thavetosaltanddrainthezucchinifirst,sinceheretheextramoistureisaplus.
1½
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2½
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ZucchiniQuickBreadZucchini’snaturalwatercontentmakesitanassetwhenbakingcakeandquickbreads,keepingthemexceptionallymoist.Thisno-mixerbatteriseasytowhisktogetherandisflavoredwithgroundcinnamon,vanilla,andchoppedwalnuts.Theadditionofwhole-
wheatflourandoliveoilmakestheseloavesmorewholesomethanthosemadewithonlyall-purposeflourandbutter.
MAKES2LOAVES
Unsaltedbutter,roomtemperature,forpans
cupsall-purposeflour,plusmoreforpans
cupswhole-wheatflour
tablespoonbakingpowder
teaspoonsalt
tablespoongroundcinnamon
cupssugar
cupextra-virginoliveoil
largeeggs
cupsgratedzucchini
tablespoonpurevanillaextract
cupchoppedwalnuts
1.Preheatovento350°Fwithrackinthecenter.Buttertwo4½-by-8½-inchloafpans,thendustwithflour,tappingouttheexcess.Whisktogetherflours,bakingpowder,salt,andcinnamoninalargebowl.
2.Inanotherbowl,stirtogethersugar,oil,eggs,zucchini,andvanilla.Stirzucchinimixtureintoflourmixtureuntilwellblended.Foldinwalnuts.
3.Dividebatterbetweenpreparedpans.Bakeuntilacaketesterinsertedintomiddleofloavescomesoutclean,about40to50minutes.Letcoolinpansonawirerack15minutes,thenturnoutontoracksandletcool
completelybeforeserving.
TIPTheloaveswillkeepwellinthefreezerforseveralmonths;wraptightlyinplasticandstoreinsealablefreezerbags.
3
1
1
3
1
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2
1
SkilletSteakPeperonataAsitsnamesuggests,peperonataisallaboutthepeppers.TomakethistraditionalSiciliansidedish,bellpeppersarestewedwithonionandgarlicuntiltender;the
sweetnessiskeptincheckbyasplashofred-winevinegar.Peperonataisoftenservedwithsteak,ashere(trythecombinationasasandwich,too),butalsowithsearedpork
chopsorsautéedfish,ortossedintosaladsandpastas.
SERVES4
tablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil
onion,thinlysliced
garlicclove,minced
bellpeppers,ribsandseedsremoved,thinlysliced
sprigthyme
sprigrosemary
Pinchofred-pepperflakes
tablespoonsred-winevinegar
Coarsesaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper
poundbonelesssirloinsteak(1inchthick)
1.Heat2tablespoonsoilinalargeskilletovermediumhigh.Addonionandgarlic,andcook,stirringoccasionally,untilonionturnsgoldenontheedges,about4minutes.Addbellpeppers,thyme,rosemary,red-pepperflakes,andvinegar;seasonwithsalt.Tosstocombine,thencoverandcook,stirringoccasionally,untilpeppersaretender,about30minutes.Transfertoabowl;covertokeepwarm.
2.Wipeoutskilletandheatremainingtablespoonoilovermediumhigh.Patsteakdryandseasononbothsideswithsaltandblackpepper.Cooksteakuntilbrownedonfirstside,3to4minutes.Turnsteakandbrownonsecondside,3to4minutesmoreformediumrare.Transfertoacutting
boardandletrest10minutes.
3.Slicesteakacrossthegrainintothinstripsandreturntoskillet;addpeperonata,tosstocombine,andserve.
2
4
3
3
2
1¾
PickledJalapeñosandCucumbersPickledjalapeñosareagreatwaytobringabitoffieryheattodishes,deliveredinacool,crunchypackage.Here,we’vecombinedthechileswithtwootherclassicpicklingvegetables,cucumbersandonions.Trythemwithnachos,tacos,chili,sandwiches,or
burgers.
MAKES2½QUARTS
poundsKirbycucumbers,sliced¼inchthick
redjalapeñochiles,sliced¼inchthick
smallonions,cutinto½-inchwedges
tablespoonscoarsesalt
cupsapplecidervinegar
cupslight-brownsugar
1
¾
¾
tablespoonyellowmustardseeds
teaspoonceleryseeds
teaspoongroundturmeric
1.Tosstogethercucumbers,jalapeños,onions,andsaltinabowl.Cover;refrigerate2hours.
2.Cookvinegar,sugar,mustardandceleryseeds,andturmericinasaucepanovermediumheat,stirringtodissolvesugar.Rinseanddraincucumbermixtureandplaceinabowl(ordivideamongjars).Pourvinegarmixtureovercucumbers;letcoolcompletely.Refrigerate,covered,upto3weeksbeforeserving.
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1
BlisteredPadrónPepperswithSeaSaltIfyouspotthesebright-greenpeppersatthemarket,grabthem—they’reslightlylesssweetthangreenbellpeppersbuttakeonadelicious,smokyflavorwhencharredinanironskilletorunderthebroiler.Butbeforewarned:Whilemostaremild,oneortwoin
everytenpacksamouthfuloffieryflavor.
SERVES4
tablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil
poundPadrónpeppers
Flakyseasalt,suchasMaldon
Heatoilinalarge,heavyskillet(preferablycastiron)overmediumhigh.Cookpeppersinasinglelayer,turning,untilblistered,about5minutes.Transfertoaplatter,sprinklewithseasalt,andserve.
Transfertoaplatter,sprinklewithseasalt,andserve.
2
1
1
1
12
2
8
WholeBakedTroutwithCherryTomatoesandPotatoes
Here’sadeliciouswaytousethelastoftheseason’scropofcherrytomatoes(orthoseavailableanytimeofyear):Roastthem,alongwithYukonGoldpotatoes,untiltheyaresoftenedandjuicy,andattheheightofsweetness.Thencontinuetocookthemtoppedwithtwowholetrout;thejuicesfromthefishwillflavorthevegetables,whichinturn
contributemoistnesstothefish.It’sawin-winproposition.
SERVES4
YukonGoldpotatoes,scrubbedandthinlysliced
garlicclove,smashed
tablespoonchoppedfreshoreganoleaves
tablespoonplus1teaspoonoliveoil
ouncescherrytomatoes,brokenintosmallerclustersifonthevineCoarsesaltandfreshlygroundpepper
wholetrout(about9ounceseach),scaled,gutted,andcleaned
thinlemonslices(from1lemon)
1.Preheatovento425°F.Tosstogetherpotatoes,garlic,oregano,and1tablespoonoilinabowl,andseasonwithsaltandpepper.Arrangepotatoesina9-by-13-inchbakingdish,overlappingthem;topwithtomatoes.
2.Roastuntiltomatoesarejuicyandpotatoesaretender,about25minutes.Removefromoven.
3.Rubfishwithremainingteaspoonoil,dividingevenly.Seasoninsideandoutsideoffishwithsalt;stuffwithlemonslices.Arrangefishontopofpotatoes,shiftingtomatoesalongside.Roastuntilfishareopaquethroughoutandflakewithafork,about20minutes.Serveimmediately.
3
1
2
1
1
Zucchini“Pasta”PrimaveraCutintothinstripsandbrieflycooked,zucchinitakesonatexturethatmimicsaldentepasta.Here,thegluten-free“noodles”aretossedwithasauceofhalvedcherrytomatoes,capers,andgarlicthat’ssautéedforallofoneminute.Eachplateisgarnishedwiththe
flavorfulcomponentsofpesto:freshbasil,toastedpinenuts,andgratedParmesan.
SERVES4
tablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil
pintcherrytomatoes,halved
tablespoonscapers,preferablysalt-packed,rinsedanddrained
garlicclove,thinlysliced
Pinchofred-pepperflakes
largezucchini,cutlengthwiseintothinstrands
Pinenuts,toasted,forserving
FinelygratedParmigiano-Reggianocheese,forserving
Freshbasilleaves,forserving
1.Heatoilinalargeskilletovermediumhigh.Addtomatoes,capers,garlic,andred-pepperflakesandcook,stirringfrequently,untilheatedthrough,about1minute.Addzucchiniandcook,tossing,untiljusttender,1to2minutes.
2.Serveimmediately,toppedwithtoastedpinenuts,gratedcheese,andbasil.
TIPUseamandoline,juliennepeeler,orsharpknife—orideally,aspiralslicer—tomakethestrandsofzucchini.
4
1
¼
½
RoastedBellPeppersBellpeppersundergoaparticularlydrastictransformationwhenroasted:Theonce-
crispfleshbecomeswonderfullytender,andtheskinsblisterandloosenforeasypeeling.Servethesedressedonesasasalad,orinsandwiches,pastadishes,andantipasti.
SERVES4
redbellpeppers
Extra-virginoliveoil
tablespooncapers,preferablysalt-packed,rinsedanddrained
cuppittedKalamataolives
teaspoonred-winevinegar
Lemonpeel,cutintofinejulienne
Coarsesaltandfreshlygroundpepper
Freshbasilleaves,forserving
Freshbasilleaves,forserving
1.Heatbroilerwithrackintopposition.Placebellpeppersonaparchment-linedrimmedbakingsheet.Broil,turningoccasionally,untilcharredonallsidesandtender,about10minutes.Transfertoabowl,covertightlywithplasticwrap,andletsteam10minutes.Rubwithpapertowelstoremoveskin.Quartereachpepperlengthwiseandremoveribsandseeds.
2.Arrangepeppersonaservingplatter,drizzlewithoil,andtopwithcapers,olives,vinegar,andlemonstrips.Seasonwithsaltandpepper,sprinklewithbasil,andserve.
TIPAnalternativetobroilingpeppersistocharthemoveranopenflame(onthestoveoragrill)untilskinisblisteredandcharred.
6
3
4
¼
TomatilloandChipotleSalsaTomatilloshaveatart,citrusyflavoralltheirown.They’realsomeatier(lesswatery)thantheirdistantrelative,thetomato.You’llfindtomatillos,rawandcooked,inmanyMexicandishes,mostcommonlyintheformofsalsa.Charringthefruit(andgarlic)
makesthissalsadistinctivelysmoky;addingchipotlesalsohelps.
SERVES4
tomatillos,husked,rinsed,andquartered
garliccloves(donotpeel)
cannedchipotlechilesinadobosauce,coarselychopped
teaspoonsugar
Coarsesalt
Cilantroleaves,forserving
Tortillachips,forserving
Tortillachips,forserving
1.Workingintwobatchesifneeded,cooktomatillosandgarlicinalargeskillet(preferablycastiron)overmedium-highheat,turningoccasionally,untilcharredonallsides,15to20minutes.Transfertoaplate,andletcoolslightly.Thenpeelgarlic,andfinelychoptomatillosandgarlic.
2.Mixtomatillos,garlic,chipotles,andsugarinabowl,seasonwithsalt,andtopwithcilantro.Servewithtortillachips.
¼
2
1
1
1¾
2
½
½
2
½
½
¼
½
12
ChilesRellenosThelarge,thick-fleshedpoblanochilehasaniceamountofheat,butnottoomuch,and
anearthyflavor;italsoistherightsizeforstuffing,asinMexicanchilesrellenos.
SERVES6
cupextra-virginoliveoil
poundsgroundchicken
whiteonion,chopped
garlicclove,minced
poundsplumtomatoes,seededanddiced
driedbayleaves
cupraisins
cupgreenolives,chopped
tablespoonscapers,rinsedanddrained
cupfinelychoppedcilantro,plussmallsprigsforserving
cupfinelychoppedflat-leafparsley
cupfinelychoppedmint
cupsliveredalmonds
Coarsesalt
freshpoblanochiles
Mexicancremaorsourcream,forserving
Limewedges,forserving
1.Heat2tablespoonsoilinalargeskilletovermediumhighuntilalmostsmoking.Addchicken;cook,stirringfrequently,untillightlybrownedandcookedthrough,about8minutes.Transfertoabowl.
2.Heatremaining2tablespoonsoilinsameskilletovermediumhigh.Cookonion,stirringoccasionally,untiltranslucent,2minutes.Addgarlic;cook,stirring,1minute.Addtomatoesandbayleaves,andreduceheatto
mediumlow;simmeruntiltomatoesaresoft,15minutes.
3.Stirinraisins,olives,andcapers;cook3minutes.Addchicken;cook5minutes.Stirinchoppedherbsandalmonds,andseasonwithsalt.Letcool.(Fillingmayberefrigeratedupto1dayinanairtightcontainer.Beforeusing,bringtoroomtemperature;discardbayleaves.)4.Preheatovento350°F.Roastpoblanosdirectlyovertheflameofagas-stoveburnerorunderabroiler,turningoftenwithtongs,untilcharredonallsides.Placeinabowl,coverwithplasticwrap,andletstandfor15minutes.Whencoolenoughtohandle,rubwithapapertoweltoremoveskins,beingcarefulnottotearflesh.Cutaslitdownthesideofeachpoblanofromstemtotip.Removeseeds,leavingstemintact.
5.Spoonfillingintoeachchile,dividingevenly;arrangeinabakingdish.Bakeuntilheatedthrough,15minutes.Serveimmediatelywithcrema,cilantrosprigs,andlimewedges.
1
½
½
⅔
½
1
¼
Cucumber,Mango,andShrimpEscabèchePutthecoolingqualitiesofcucumbertoworkinaSpanishescabèche.Itrequires
minimalcooking—justaminuteortwotopoachtheshrimp;therestisamatteroflettingtheacidiclimejuiceinfusetheseafoodwithflavor.
SERVES4
poundshell-onlargeshrimp(16to20count)
cupplus3tablespoonsfreshlimejuice(from12limes)
Englishcucumber,cutintothinhalf-moons
cupchoppedpeeledmango
cupchoppedredonion
jalapenochile,finelychopped
cupplus3tablespoonschoppedfreshcilantro,plusmoreforservingCoarsesaltand
freshlygroundpepper
1.Prepareanice-waterbath.Bringalargepotofwatertoaboil.Reduceheattomedium;poachshrimpuntiljustopaquethroughout,1½to2minutes.Transfershrimptoicebathandletcoolcompletely.
2.Drainshrimp;peel,devein,andsliceinhalf.Tossshrimpwith½cuplimejuiceinanonreactivedish.Refrigerate,covered,2hours,stirringhalfwaythrough;drain.
3.Tosstogethershrimp,cucumber,mango,onion,jalapeno,cilantro,2tablespoonslimejuice,¾teaspoonsalt,andapinchofpepper.Refrigerate,30minutes.Stirinremainingtablespoonlimejuice,topwithcilantrosprigs,andserve.
2
½½1
2
2
ChilledMelon,Cucumber,andMintSoupThehighwatercontentandrefreshingflavorofcucumbersarejustrightformaking
chilledsoups.Thissoupcombinesseedlesscucumbers,honeydewmelon,limejuice,andfreshmint—allinlovelyshadesofgreen.Moremintissprinkledontop,andGreek
yogurtissmearedalongside.
SERVES8
Englishcucumbers
honeydewmelon,peeled,seeded,andcutinto1-inchchunks(8cups)to⅔cupfreshlimejuice(from10to12limes),pluswedgesforservingcuplightlypackedfreshmintleaves,plusmoreforserving
cupscrushedice
Coarsesalt
cupsplainGreekyogurt
Extra-virginoliveoil
Extra-virginoliveoil
1.Peel,halve,andseedcucumbers,thencoarselychop.(Youshouldhaveabout4½cups.)Workinginbatches,puréecucumbers,melon,½cuplimejuice,themint,andiceinafoodprocessororblender.Seasonwithsaltandmorelimejuice.Transfersouptoabowl,cover,andrefrigerateuntilreadytoserve,upto2hours.
2.Spoon¼cupyogurtintoeachbowl,smearingupsides.Spoonchilledsoupintobowls,drizzlewithoil,andtopwithmint.Servewithlimewedges.
2
4
2
½
1
3
3
StuffedTomatoeswithMozzarellaTomatoes,zucchini,andbellpeppersareperfectforstuffing.Oncethefleshandseeds
havebeenscoopedout,theremainingshellsarefirmenoughtoholdtheirshapeastheycook.Here,tomatoesarefilledwithsautéedcornandgreens(anyoftheonesinthe
Greenschapterwilldo),toastedbreadpieces,andmozzarella,whichmeltsandturnsdeliciouslygoldenunderthebroiler.
SERVES4
slicesrusticbread,tornintosmallpieces(about¾cup)
ripemediumtomatoes,halvedhorizontally
Coarsesaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper
tablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil
Pinchofred-pepperflakes
shallot,thinlysliced
cupcornkernels(from1ear)
cupspackedchoppedgreens,suchasSwisschardorbeetgreens
ouncesfreshmozzarellacheese,sliced
1.Heatbroilerwithrack8inchesfromheatsource.Toastbreadonarimmedbakingsheet,tossingonce,untilcrisp,about2minutes.
2.Scoopoutseedsandfleshfromeachtomatointoabowl;reserve.Arrangetomatohalvesinabroiler-safebakingdish;seasonwithsaltandpepper.
3.Inalargeskillet,heat1tablespoonoilovermedium.Addred-pepperflakesandshallot;cook,stirringfrequently,untiljusttender,about2minutes.Increaseheattohigh;addreservedtomatofleshandjuice.Cook,stirring,untilreducedbyhalf,about2minutes.Addcornandgreens;cook,stirring,untilvegetablesaretender,about2minutes.Seasonwithsalt.
4.Filltomatohalveswithvegetablemixture,dividingevenly,thensprinkleeachhalfwithtoastedbread,drizzlewithremainingtablespoonoil,andtopwithmozzarella.Broiluntilcheeseisbubblyandgoldeninspots,about2minutes.Serveimmediately.
¼
1
2
1
1
11
SalmonandAvocadoTartinesSERVES6TO8
cupplus¾teaspoonfreshlemonjuice
celerystalk
sprigsflat-leafparsley
Seasaltorcoarsesalt
wildsalmonfillet(about1poundand1inchthick),skinon
ripebutfirmavocado,halved,pitted,andpeeled
tablespoonwasabipowder,mixedwith1tablespoonlukewarmwaterwhole-grainbaguette
Radishorsunflowersprouts
1.Fillasaucepanwideenoughtoholdsalmonwith2½inchescoldwater.Stirin¼cuplemonjuice,thecelery,parsley,and2teaspoonssalt.Bringtoaboil;reduceheat.Addsalmon,skinsidedown.Cover;simmeruntiljustcookedthrough,10to12minutes.Transfertoaplate,andletcool20minutes.Discardpoachingliquid.Flakesalmonintolargepieces.
2.Pulseavocado,wasabi,andremaining¾teaspoonlemonjuiceuntilsmoothinafoodprocessor;seasonwithsalt.Transfertoabowl,andcovertightlywithplasticwrap,pressingdirectlyontosurface.Refrigerateupto30minutes.
3.Preheatovento425°F.Cutbaguetteinhalf,andcuteachhalflengthwiseintothree½-inch-thickslices.Arrange,flatsidedown,inasinglelayeronabakingsheet.Toastinovenuntillightlygolden,about7minutes.Letcool10minutes.Spreadeachslicewithabout2tablespoonsavocado-wasabimixture,andtopwithsalmonandsprouts.
1
6
3
PistachioGuacamoleGuacamoleisendlesslyadaptable—anduniversallyadored.Toastedpistachiosmaynotbethemostobviouschoice,buttheysupplyextrarichnessandcrunchtothesimple
blendofavocado,freshlimejuice,andsalt.Justaddcornchips.
SERVES8
cupshelledpistachios
ripeavocados,halved,pitted,andpeeled
tablespoonsfreshlimejuice(from2to3limes)
Coarsesalt
Tortillachips,forserving
1.Preheatovento350°F.Toastpistachiosonarimmedbakingsheetuntil
goldenandfragrant,stirringonceortwice,10to15minutes.Transfertoaplateandletcoolcompletely.Coarselychop.
2.Inabowl,mashavocadosandlimejuicetogetherwithafork.Foldinallbut3tablespoonschoppedpistachios;seasonwithsalt.Topwithremainingpistachiosandserveimmediatelywithtortillachips.
2½
1
1
¼
2½
1
¼
2⅓
4
1
Roasted-TomatoHandPiesThefillingfortheseportabletartspacksanabundanceofflavor:Slicedtomatoesareroasteduntiltheirflavorsareconcentratedandthetomatoeshaveshedmuchoftheirmoisture(sothetartswon’tgetsoggy).Thisisagreatwaytopreparetomatoesevenifyoudon’tmakethetarts;storetheminanairtightcontainerintherefrigerator,coveredinaslickofoliveoil,thenbringtoroomtemperatureandserveoncrostini,burgers,or
pasta.
MAKES12
FORTHEDOUGH
cupsall-purposeflour,plusmorefordusting
teaspooncoarsesalt
cup(2sticks)coldunsaltedbutter,cutintosmallpieces
to½cupicewater
FORTHEFILLING
poundstomatoes,coredandsliced¼inchthickcrosswise
mediumonion,quarteredlengthwiseandthinlyslicedcrosswise
cupextra-virginoliveoil
Coarsesaltandfreshlygroundpepper
tablespoonsfinelychoppedfreshoregano,plussmallsprigsforserving(optional)cupchoppedpittedoil-curedblackolives
ouncesfetacheese,crumbled(¾cup)
largeeggyolk,lightlybeatenwith1tablespoonwater,foreggwash1.Makethedough:Pulsetogetherflourandsaltinafoodprocessoruntilcombined.Addbutter,andprocessuntilmixtureresemblescoarsemeal,about10seconds.Withmachinerunning,addjustenoughicewaterinaslow,steadystreamuntildoughjustcomestogether(nolongerthan30seconds).Dividedoughinhalf,shapeeachpieceintoasquare,andwrapinplastic.Refrigerateatleast1hourorupto2days(orfreezeupto1month;thawovernightinrefrigeratorbeforeusing).
2.Rolloutdoughonalightlyflouredsurfaceto⅛inchthick.Usingaparingknife,cutouttwelve4½-inchsquares,andfitintocupsofastandardmuffintin,leavinganoverhang.Chilluntilfirm,about30
minutes.
3.Makethefilling:Preheatovento400°F.Dividetomatoandonionslicesbetweentworimmedbakingsheets.Drizzlewithoil,seasonwithsaltandpepper,androast,rotatingsheetshalfwaythrough,untiltomatoesbegintoshrivelandonionslicesaregolden,about30minutes.Letcoolonsheets,thentransfertoabowl.
4.Preheatovenorlowertemperatureto375°F.Dividehalfthechoppedoregano,olives,andfetaamongthepastryshells.Topwithtomato-onionmixture,dividingevenly.Sprinklewithremainingoregano,olives,andfeta.Foldcornersofdoughtowardcenters.Brushwitheggwash.
5.Bakepiesuntilbubblingandtopcrustsaregolden,50to60minutes.Letcoolcompletelyintinonawirerackbeforeserving,withoreganosprigstuckedintopies,ifdesired.
¼
1
1
2¾
1
2
3¼
1½
¼
½
ButternutSquashandTaleggioPizzaButternutsquashmakesadelicioustoppingfor“white”pizza,particularlywhen
combinedwithnuttyTaleggioandsharpParmigiano-Reggianocheeses(andlittleelse).
MAKES2PIES
FORTHEDOUGH
teaspoonsugar
envelope(¼ounce)activedryyeast
cupwarmwater(about110°F)
cupsunbleachedall-purposeflour,plusmorefordusting
teaspooncoarsesalt
tablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil,plusmoreforbowl
Finecornmeal,fordusting
FORTHETOPPINGS
poundsbutternutsquash,peeled,seeded,andcutinto½-inchdicecupplus2tablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil
Coarsesaltandfreshlygroundpepper
poundsTaleggiocheese
cupfreshthymeleaves
cupfinelygratedParmigiano-Reggianocheese
1.Inasmallbowl,sprinklesugarandyeastoverthewarmwater;stirwithaforkuntilyeastandsugardissolve.Letstanduntilfoamy,about5minutes.
2.Inafoodprocessor,pulsetogetherflourandsalt.Addyeastmixtureandoil;pulseuntilmixturecomestogetherbutisstillslightlytacky.(Doughshouldpullawaycleanlyfromyourfingersafterit’ssqueezed.)
Turnoutdoughontoalightlyflouredworksurface;kneadfourorfivetimes,toformasmoothball.Placeinalightlyoiledbowl,smoothsideup.Coverwithplasticwrap;letriseinawarmplaceuntildoubled,about40minutes.Punchdowndough.Folddoughbackontoitselffourorfivetimes,thenturnsmoothsideup.Replaceplastic;letdoughriseagaininawarmplaceuntildoubledinbulk,30to40minutes.
3.Punchdoughdownagain;turnoutontoalightlyflouredworksurface.Usingabenchscraperorknife,dividedoughintotwopieces.Kneadeachpiecefourorfivetimes,thenformasmoothball.Returnoneballtooiledbowl;coverwithplasticwrap.Patremainingballintoaflatteneddisk;coverwithplasticwrap,andletrest5minutes.Sprinklealargewoodenpeelwithcornmeal.Usingyourhandsorarollingpin,stretchorpressdoughintodesiredshape,workingfromcenteroutwardinalldirections.Transfertopreparedpeel.
4.Meanwhile,maketoppings:Preheatovento450°Fwitharackinlowestpositionandapizzastoneonrack.Tosssquashwith2tablespoonsoil,andseasonwithsaltandpepper.Spreadevenlyonarimmedbakingsheet,androast,tossingonceortwice,untiltender,about12minutes.Letcool.
5.Arrangehalfofsquashoveronepieceofdough,leavinga1-inchborder.DotwithhalfofTaleggio,squeezingitfromrindinto1-inchpiecesasyougo.Sprinklewithhalfofthyme,anddrizzlewith2tablespoonsoil.TopwithhalfofParmesan.
6.Slidepizzaontoheatedbakingstone.Bakeuntilcrustisgoldenbrownandcheeseismelted,15to18minutes.Meanwhile,repeattomakesecondpizzawithremainingingredients;bakewhenfirstpizzaisremovedfromoven.
3
1½
23
1
2⅓
2
¼
RoastedAcornSquash,ThreeWaysThebeautyofroastedacornsquash,asopposedtobutternutorothertough-skinned
varieties,isthatyoucaneattheskin(whichcontainsmuchofthevegetable’snutrients,includingfiberandantioxidants).Italsotakeswelltoavarietyofflavors.
1
WITHSESAMESEEDSANDCUMIN
tablespoonssesameseeds
teaspoonscuminseeds
smallacornsquashes,halved,seeded,andcutinto1-inchwedgestablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil
teaspoongroundcoriander
Coarsesaltandfreshlygroundpepper
1.Preheatovento400°F.Toastsesameseedsinaskilletovermedium-high,shakingpanfrequently,untilgoldenbrown,1to2minutes.Addcuminseedsandtoastuntilfragrant,30seconds.Transferseedstoabowl;letcool.
2.Tosssquasheswithoilandcoriander,andseasonwithsaltandpepperonarimmedbakingsheet.Roastinasinglelayer10minutes.Addseedsandtosstocoat,thenflipslices.Roastuntilsquashesaretenderandgoldenbrown,about15minutesmore;serve.
2
WITHBACONANDMAPLE
smallacornsquashes,halved,seeded,andcutinto1-inchwedgescuppuremaplesyrup
tablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil
teaspooncayennepepper
3
23
2⅔
5
Coarsesalt
thickslicesbacon,cutcrosswiseinto¼-inchpieces
1.Preheatovento400°F.Tosssquasheswithmaplesyrup,oil,andcayenneandseasonwithsaltonarimmedbakingsheet.
2.Roastinasinglelayer10minutes.Addbacon,thenflipsquashestocoat.Roast,flippingoncemorehalfwaythrough,untiltenderandgoldenbrown,about20minutesmore;serve.
3
WITHORANGEANDSAGE
smallacornsquashes,halved,seeded,andcutinto1-inchwedgestablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil
Coarsesalt
tablespoonspackedthinlyslicedfreshsageorwholesmallsageleavescupfinelygratedParmigiano-Reggianocheese(1½ounces)
stripsorangepeel,cutintofinejulienne(¼cup)
1.Preheatovento400°F.Tosssquasheswithoilandseasonwithsaltonarimmedbakingsheet.
2.Roastinasinglelayer10minutes.Addsage,cheese,andorangeandtosstocoat,thenflipslices.Roastuntilsquashesaretenderandgoldenbrown,about15minutesmore;serve.
½
3
½
1
2
½10
14
ButternutSquashandKaleHashInthisskilletsupper,butternutsquashisroastedwithcarrots,thenmixedwithkaleandroasteduntilthat’stender.Finally,thevegetablesaretoppedwitheggs,whichbakeuntilset.Thekeyistocooktheeggsjustuntilthewhitesaresetbuttheyolksarestillrunny,sotheyforma“sauce”thatbringsthewholedishtogetherinthemostdeliciousmanner.
SERVES4
cupextra-virginoliveoil
tablespoonsfreshlemonjuice
cupcoarselychoppedfreshcilantro
Coarsesaltandfreshlygroundpepper
smallonion,finelychopped
garliccloves,minced
mediumbutternutsquashor1acornsquash,halved,seeded,peeled,andcutinto½-inchpieces(3½cups)ouncescarrots,peeledandcutinto½-inchpieces(1½cups)
smallbunchkale,stemstrimmedandleavescoarselychopped(2cupspacked)largeeggs
1.Preheatovento425°F.Inasmallbowl,whisktogether¼cupplus2tablespoonsoil,thelemonjuice,andcilantro,thenseasonwithsaltandpepper.
2.Heatremaining2tablespoonsoilinalargestraight-sidedovenproofskillet(preferablycastiron)overmediumhigh.Addonionandgarlic,andcook,stirringoccasionally,untilsoftened,about3minutes.
3.Addsquashandcarrots,seasonwithsaltandpepper,andtransfertooven.Roast,stirringonce,untilgoldenandtender,20to25minutes.
4.Stirkaleintosquashmixture,alongwith¼cupcilantromixture.Returntoovenandbakeuntilkaleiswilted,about8minutes.
5.Makefourwellsinvegetablesandcrackaneggintoeach.Seasoneggs
withsalt.Returntoovenandbakeuntilwhitesaresetbutyolksarestillrunny,4to6minutes.Serve,drizzledwithmorecilantrodressing.
KERNELS
Sweetcornisasdemocraticavegetableasthereis.Itrewardsthosewhoprefer cheap-and-easy preparations with as lavish a show of flavor asthosewhofussandfretoverit.Boilitandslapitwithbutterandsalt,anditbecomesasubstantialsidedishorsnack.Butyoucanjustaswelldressitupforcompanybyfoldingitintoasavorypuddingortransformingitintoalusciousicecreamfordessert.
Nordoescorn’sversatilityendwiththesummertimekitchen.Wealsoeatthis so-called vegetable as a grain—think cornmeal and corn flour—inbreads, tortillas, grits, polenta, and muffins. Similarly, it turns up incornstarch, corn syrup, corn oil, andwhiskey. And, of course, there arevarietiesgrownspecificallyformakingpopcorn.
Soperhaps it should comeasno surprise to learn that thismultifacetedvegetable/grain is actually neither, but instead is a fruit. In fact, eachlittlekernel isanindividualfruitsurroundingafairlylargeseed.Whenyoung,theserelativelytough-skinnedlittlefruitsfillupwithsugarsandjuices,aswellasasmoothmilkysubstancethatallowsthemtogivewaywith apop of sweet creamy flavorwhenyoubite into them,nomatterhowthey’reprepared.
THEBASICS
SEASONALITYSweetcornisasummercrop,plainandsimple.Earssoldatothertimesofyearhavegenerallybeenhybridized,geneticallymodified,traveledlongdistances—orallthree.Intheoff-season,optforfrozencorn—it’sadecentalternativeinanyrecipe,andbetterthancornfromacan.
BUYINGWithcorn,thefamiliarexhortationtobuyfromfarmstandsisespeciallyworthheeding.That’snotjustbecausegoodsweetcornshouldtravelminimaltimeanddistancefromwhereitwaspicked,butalsobecausecornhidesitsage.Evenifyoupeelbackthehusk(orthepurveyordoes),youcan’teasilyseewhetherthesugarsinsideeachkernelhaveturnedtostarch.Abettertestforfreshnessistolookatthehuskitself(itshouldlookgreenandclingtotheear),examinethestemend(freshandpale),andthesilksatthetip(glossywheretheyemergefromthehuskandneverdriedoutorbrown).Manyshoppersshunearswithimmaturekernelsatthetips,butyouneedn’t:Therestoftheearwillbeespeciallyyoung,tender,andsweet.
NOTABLEVARIETIESSweetervarietiesincludeBreeder’sChoice,KandyKorn,EarlyXtraSweet,Sweetie,andSuper-SweetJubliee.Therearemanybicolor(whiteandyellow)varieties,includingButter&SugarandConcord;whitecorn,whichisverysweetandtender,includesSilverQueen,BooneCountyWhiteCorn,andHowSweetItIs.Peruvianpurplecorn(alsocalledbluecorn),BlackAztecCorn,BloodyButcherCorn,andCalicoCorn(multicoloredcobs)areallcolorfulvarietiesthatarecultivatedforeatingaswellasdryingfordecorations.
STORINGThetrickwithstoringfreshearsofcornis:Don’t—atleastnotforlong.Placeearsin
aplasticorpaperbaginthecrisperdrawerofyourrefrigeratorfornomorethanadayorso.Ifyouwanttosavefreshcornforlater,huskandremovethesilks,slicekernelsoffthecob,thenfreezeinaheavy-dutysealablebag.Tofreezecookedcorn,blanchshuckedearsinapotofboilingwaterfor4minutes,thendrainandpatdry.Whencoolenoughtohandle,shaveoffkernelsandfreezeinsealableplasticbags(squeezeoutexcessairbeforesealing),upto6monthsorlonger.
PREPPINGIfyouplantoboilcorn,removethehusksandsilksimmediatelyprior.Ifyouwanttogrillit,manyexpertswilltellyoutopeelbackthehuskandremovethesilksfirst,thenwrapthehuskbackaroundtheear,butthat’squiteunnecessary:thesilks—soirritatingtopickawaywhenraw—sliprightoffoncetheearisgrilled(orovenroasted).Toremovethekernelsfromthecob,standthecobonitsbroaderendonacuttingboard,holdthetipwithonehand,andusingasharpknife,slicedownwardtowardthebaseofthekernels,rotatingthecobasyougo.Thenfliptheknifearoundandusethebackedgetoscrapethemilkfromthecob,ifdesired.
COOKINGSweetcornisheavenlywhenit’slightlyboiledorsteamed.(Whichmethodyoupreferdependslargelyonwhatyougrewupdoing,astheresultsareverysimilar.Butadvocatesofsteamingsaythismethodpreservestheflavorbetter.)Youcanalsothrowthecornonahotgrill,huskandall.Thecookingtimeswilldependonthefreshness:Totest,poparawkernelinyourmouth—thefreshoneswillpopbetweenyourteeth,releasingasweet,fragrantmilk;olderoneswillhaveaslightpopcornmealinessthatwilldisappearduringcooking.Rawkernelscanbesautéedinbutteroroilorpan-roastedinadryskillet(togivethemanicesmokychar),andthenaddedtograinandvegetabledishes,ormixedintosoups.Grilledkernelscanalsobecutfromthecobandtossedintosaladsandsalsas.
HOWTOBOILShuckearsandcookinalargepotofsaltedboilingwateruntilkernelsareknife-tender,2to6minutesdependingonfreshness.Servewithsoftenedbutterandchoppedfreshherbs(orcombinedinacompoundbutter).
HOWTOSTEAMShuckearsandplace,stemendsdown,inapot(orinapastainsertsetinpot)filled
Shuckearsandplace,stemendsdown,inapot(orinapastainsertsetinpot)filledwith2inchesofboilingwater.Coverandsteamuntilkernelsareknife-tender,2to6minutes.
HOWTOSAUTÉShuckearsandsliceoffkernels.Meltbutterinalargeskillet.Addcorn,seasonwithsaltandpepper,andcookovermedium-highheat,stirringoccasionally,untiltenderandgoldenbrown,8to10minutes.
HOWTOPAN-ROASTHeatacast-ironskilletovermediumhigh.Cookcornkernelsinadryskillet,stirringoccasionally,untilbrowned,3to5minutes.Seasonwithsaltandpepper.Thisgivesthekernelsanicesmokiness(similartogrilling).
HOWTOROASTRoastunshuckedcorndirectlyontheracksofa400°Fovenfor30minutes.Thehuskswillsliprightoff—silksandall—andthekernelswillbeperfectlytenderandgreatforslicingintosalads,salsas,andpastas,or,ofcourse,eatingstraightoffthecob.
FLAVORPAIRINGSButterandsaltaretheclassics,andanearofgoodsummercornneedsnothingmore.Recipesmightunderscorecorn’ssweetcreamyside,pairingitwithcheese,cream,andpotatoes,orcontrastitwithbright,hotoracidicflavors,suchastomatoes,peppers,chiles,andlime—which,likecorn,originatedinCentralAmerica,asdidblackbeans,anothernaturalpartner.Asforherbs,cornlikesthemallbuthasaspecialaffinityforbasil,lemongrass,cilantro,chives,andthyme.
THERECIPES
GrilledCorn,withThreeToppings
CornandScallionChilaquiles
CornSoup
HatchChileCornPudding
CornmealShortcakeswithCornIceCreamandBlueberryCompote
4
GrilledCorn,withThreeToppingsAsidefromboilingorsteaming,afavoritewaytoenjoycornistogrillit,thensmotheritwithflavorfultoppings.Aslongasyou’regrillingtherestofthemeal,youmayas
wellgrillthecorn,too.WetookinspirationfromwildlypopularMexicangrilledcorntocomeupwiththreetopping
combinations:sesame,ginger,andjalapeño;chilipowderandfreshlimejuice;andcrispedbacon,oregano,and
mayonnaise.Saffloweroil,forgrill
earscorn,shucked
Toppingofchoice(seebelow)
Heatagrillorgrillpanovermediumhigh.Brushhotgrateswithoil.Grillcorn,turningoccasionallywithtongs,untilkernelsarejusttenderwhenpressedandcharredinspots,about20minutes.Transfercorntoaplatter;whilestillwarm,topasdesired.
1
SESAME,GINGER,ANDJALAPEÑO
ANDJALAPEÑO
Combine2tablespoonstoastedsesameoil,½teaspoonfinelygratedpeeledfreshginger,½teaspoonmincedseededjalapenochile,and2teaspoonschoppedfreshcilantro;seasonwithsaltandpepper.Transfergrilledcorntoaplatter.Dividingevenly,spreadmixtureovergrilledcobs,sprinklewith2teaspoonssesameseeds,andserve.
2
CHILIPOWDERANDLIME
Dividingevenly,squeeze½limeovercorn,thensprinklewith1teaspoonchilipowderand1¼teaspoonssalt,andserve.
3
BACON,MAYONNAISE,ANDOREGANO
Cook4slicesbaconinaskilletovermediumheat,turningoccasionally,untilcrispandfathasbeenrendered,about8minutes.Dividingevenly,spread½cupmayonnaiseovercorn,thensprinklewithcrumbledbacon,freshoreganoleaves,andfinelygratedParmigiano-Reggianocheese.Seasonwithsaltandpepperandserve.
TIPIfyouleavethemintheirhusks(withthesilksremoved),thecornwillessentiallysteam;weshucktheearsandplacethemdirectlyonthehotgrates,andtheytakeonthatcharacteristicsmokyflavor,aswellasgainafewcharredspots.
16½2½
12
3½
CornandScallionChilaquilesHere’safantasticbrunchcasserolethatisalsoagreatshowcaseforcorn-off-the-cob.
Chilaquileswascreatedasawaytouseleftovers(tortillas,chicken,corn,andsuch),andyoucanadaptthisrecipe
accordingtowhat’sinyourrefrigerator.TheusualMexicanaccompanimentsare
servedalongside:cilantro,avocado,tomatoes,andmorecrumbledcornchips.
SERVES6
tablespoonunsaltedbutterscallions(whiteandpale-greenpartsonly),finelychopped(about¼cup)jalapenochile,minced(removeribsandseedsforlessheat)cupscornkernels(from3to4ears)Coarsesalt
largeeggs
cupsbrokentortillachips,pluswholechipsforservingcupcrumbledorgratedcotijaorquesofrescocheeseCilantrosprigs,slicedavocado,andcherrytomatoes,forserving1.Heatbroilerwithrackintopthird.Meltbutterinalargeskilletovermedium-highheat.Cookscallionsandchile,stirringconstantly,1minute.Addcorn,seasonwithsalt,andcook,stirring,1minute.
2.Whisktogethereggsinalargebowlandstirinbrokenchips.Addtoskilletandcook,stirring,untilbottomstartstosetbutisstillwet,about1minute.Stirandtransfertoabroilerproof8-by-11½-inchbakingdish;broiluntileggsareset,about2minutes.Scattercheeseontopandletstand10minutesbeforeservingwithcilantrosprigs,wholechips(tuck
someintothetop),avocado,andtomatoes.
TIPIfyoucan’tfindcotijaorquesofresco,youcansubstitutefeta,Parmesan,orricottasalata.
9
1
15
22
1½
4
CornSoupWe’refondofcornsoup,asdemonstratedbythemanyrecipeswe’vepublishedovertheyears.ThiscreamyversionisadaptedfromfoodwriterandcookbookauthorEugenia
Bone;itwasfeaturedinamagazinestoryaboutpreservingsummerproduce.
SERVES4
earscorn,shucked
driedbayleaf
mediumonion,halved,plus1½cupschoppedonionthymesprigs
tablespoonslightvegetableoil,suchasgrapeseedgarliccloves,minced
cupshalf-and-half
Coarsesaltandfreshlygroundpepper
slicesbacon,cookedandchopped,forservingSlicedscallion,forserving
1.Slicekernelsfrom3earscorn;setaside.Inalargepot,bringremaining6earsofcorn,thebayleaf,halvedonion,thyme,andenoughwatertocover(about2quarts)toaboil.Reduceheat,cover,andsimmer30minutes.Strainmixturethroughafine-meshsieveintoabowl(youshouldhave1quartcornbroth;ifnot,addwater).
2.Wipepotclean.Heatoilinapotovermedium.Cookchoppedonionandgarlic,stirringfrequently,untiltranslucent,about5minutes.Stirinreservedcornkernels;cook2minutes.Addcornbroth;simmeruntilreducedbyhalf.Addhalf-and-half,andreturnjusttoasimmer.Puréehalfthesoupinablenderuntilsmooth.(Forsafety,removecapfromholeinlid;coverwithadishtoweltopreventspattering.)Returntopot,warmthrough,andseasonwithsaltandpepper.Servetoppedwithbacon,scallion,andpepper.
41
31325
HatchChileCornPuddingThispuddinggetsakickfromthegreenchiles
harvestedinNewMexico’sHatchValley,alongtheRioGrande,andrichnessfrom
MontereyJackrunningthroughthecustardbase.
SERVES8
cupscornkernels(from6ears)teaspooncoarsesalt
scallions,thinlyslicedcan(14ounces)Hatchgreenchiles,dicedtablespoonsall-
25
⅔
4
purposeflourcupsgratedMontereyJackcheese(6ounces)largeeggs,roomtemperaturecupheavycream
tablespoonsunsaltedbutter1.Preheatovento350°F.Purée3cupscornkernelsinafoodprocessor.Transfertoalargebowl,andstirinremainingcupofcorn,thesalt,scallions,chiles,flour,and⅓cupcheese.Inaseparatebowl,whisktogethereggsandcreamjustuntilcombined.Stirintocornmixture.
2.Placebutterinan8-inchsquarebakingdish,andheatinovenuntilbutterismelted,about10minutes.Removefromoven;pourbatterintodish,andsprinkletopwithremaining1⅔cupscheese.Placeabakingsheetonlowerracktocatchanydrips.Returnbakingdishtoovenandbakeuntilpuffedandbubblingandcheeseisgoldenbrown,45to50minutes.Letcool30minutesbeforeserving.
4
2
2
¾
1
9
1¼1¾
11
21¼
11½
1½½
2
2
CornmealShortcakeswithCornIceCreamandBlueberryCompoteSERVES
10
FORTHEICECREAM
earscorn,shucked
cupswholemilk
cupsheavycream
cupgranulatedsugar
teaspooncoarsesalt
largeeggyolks
FORTHESHORTCAKES(MAKES10)
cupsall-purposeflour,plusmorefordustingcupcakeflour(notself-rising)cupfinecornmeal
tablespoonbakingpowderteaspoonbakingsoda
tablespoonsplus1teaspoongranulatedsugarteaspoonscoarsesalt
cup(2sticks)coldunsaltedbutter,cutintosmallpiecescupsbuttermilk
Heavycream,forbrushing
Coarsesandingsugar,forsprinkling
FORTHEBLUEBERRYCOMPOTE
cupsblueberries(6ounces)cupgranulatedsugar
tablespoonswater
tablespoonsfreshlemonjuice1.Maketheicecream:Slicekernelsfromcobs;transfertoasaucepan.Breakcobsinhalf;addtosaucepan.Stirinmilk,cream,½cupgranulatedsugar,andthesalt.Bringtoaboil.Letcool;discardcobs.Workinginbatches,puréecornmixtureinablenderuntilsmooth.(Forsafety,removecapfromholeinlid,andcoverwithadishtoweltopreventspattering.)Returnmixturetosaucepan,andbringtoasimmerovermediumheat.Removefromheat.
2.Meanwhile,prepareanice-waterbath.Whisktogethereggyolksandremaining¼cupgranulatedsugarinabowl.Whisk1cupcornmixture
intoyolks;returntosaucepanwithcustard.Cookovermediumlow,whisking,untilcustardthickensandcoatsbackofaspoon,about10minutes.
3.Straincustardthroughasieveintoabowl,pressingonsolids;discardsolids.Transferbowltoicebath,andstiruntilchilled.Refrigerateatleast1hourorupto1day.Freezeinanicecreammaker.Transfertoanairtightcontainer,andfreezeuntilfirm,atleast3hoursorupto3months.
4.Maketheshortcakes:Preheatovento400°F.Sifttogetherflours,cornmeal,bakingpowder,bakingsoda,granulatedsugar,andsalttwiceintoabowl.Cutinbutterusingapastryblenderuntilsmallclumpsform.Makeawellinthecenter,andpourinbuttermilk.Stiruntiljustcombined(donotovermix).Turnoutdoughontoagenerouslyflouredsurface,andfoldoverontoitselfthreeorfourtimes.Rolloutdoughtoa1-inchthickness.Cutoutroundsusinga3-inchbiscuitcutter;transfertoaparchment-linedbakingsheet.Gatherscrapsandrepeatonce.Brushshortcakeswithheavycream,andsprinklewithsandingsugar.Bakeuntilgoldenbrown,18to20minutes.Coolcompletelyonawirerack.
5.Makethecompote:Bring1cupblueberries,sugar,thewater,andlemonjuicetoasimmerinasaucepanovermediumheat.Cookuntilberriesburst,about5minutes.Stirinremaining½cupblueberries.Letcoolcompletely.
6.Toserve,splitshortcakesinhalfandsandwicheachwithblueberrycompoteandicecream.
PHOTOCREDITS
AllphotographsbyNgocMinhNgoexcept:
ChristopherBaker3.1
HallieBurton2.1
ChrisCourt3.2
JosephDeLeo9.1
BryanGardner4.1,4.2,4.3,8.1
JonathanLovekin1.3,8.2,8.3,8.4,10.1
DavidMalosh2.2,4.4,4.5,10.2
JohnnyMiller1.1,2.3,3.3,4.6,6.1,8.5,11.1
MarcusNilsson2.4,3.4,4.7,10.3,10.4
JohnvonPamer2.5
ConPoulos9.2
DavidPrince10.6
LindaPugliese10.5
MariaRobledo2.6
ChristopherTestani2.7
JonnyValiant1.2,1.4,2.8,9.3
AnnaWilliams3.5,4.7,4.8
RomuloYanes2.9,5.1,5.2,5.3,9.4
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
AtMarthaStewartLiving,welovevegetablesinallforms,colors,shapes,andsizes.Soit’shardtobelievethatthisisthefirstbook(ofmorethan85!)devotedexclusivelytooneofourfavoritesubjects.
WeareespeciallythankfultoeditorsEllenMorrissey,SusanneRuppert,andEvelynBattaglia,writerCeliaBarbour,andinternAvaPollack.AbigthankyouaswelltodesignersMicheleOutlandandJenniferWagner,andthosewhoproducedthenewphotography,includingfoodstylistFrancesBoswell,propstylistsAyeshaPatelandTanyaGraff,andassistantsDeniseGinley,SarahVasil,andOliviaBloch.WearegratefultophotographerNgocMinhNgo,andherassistantsKendallMillsandLorieReilly.Alistoftheotherphotographerswhoseworkgracesthesepagesappearsopposite.Asalways,wethankourimagingteam,includingDeniseClappi,AlisonVanekDevine,andJohnMyers.
Thankyoutothemanyfoodeditorswhoserecipesgracethesepages,mostnotablyJenniferAaronson,ShiraBocar,SarahCarey,AnnaKovel,GregLofts,LauraRege,LaurynTyrell,andLucindaScalaQuinn.AndthanksaswelltoCaitlinBrown,JosefaPalacios,GertrudePorter,LindsayStrand,andKavitaThirupuvanamfortheirkitchenassistance.
WeappreciatetheeffortsofourpublishingpartnersatClarksonPotter,particularlythesalesforcewhoplacesourbookswiththebooksellers,andthosewhohelpwiththeproductionandcreationofthisandallofourtitles,includingDorisCooper,DebbieGlasserman,LinneaKnollmueller,MayaMavjee,MarkMcCauslin,AshleyMeyer,MarysarahQuinn,KelliTokos,KateTyler,andAaronWehner.
ABOUTTHEAUTHOR
MarthaStewartisAmerica’smosttrustedlifestyleexpertandteacher.Herfirstbook,Entertaining,waspublishedin1982,andsincethenshehasauthoreddozensofbestsellingbooksoncooking,gardening,weddings,homekeeping,anddecorating,includingMarthaStewart’sBakingHandbook,MarthaStewart’sEncyclopediaofCrafts,MarthaStewart’sCookingSchool,Martha’sAmericanFood,OnePot,CleanSlate,and MarthaStewart’sAppetizers.
MarthaStewarthasbeenwidelyrecognizedbythemediaindustryforaward-winningcontent,includingnumerousnationalmagazineawards,multipleASMEawardsforexcellenceindesignandphotography,nineteenEmmys,threeJamesBeardAwards,andseveralWebbyAwards.
INDEX
A B C D E F G H I J K L M N O P Q R S T U V W XY Z
A
Almond(s)Celery,andCilantroSalad,5.1,photoGazpachoAjoBlanco,1.1,photo
Apple(s)-RutabagaMash,2.1,photoandSweetPotatoes,RoastedPorkChopswith,photo,3.2
Artichoke(s)Asparagus,andFarroSalad,5.1,photoandAsparagus,NasturtiumSaladwith,9.1,photoBaby,Oven-Fried,9.1,photo
ArugulaandEdibleFlowers,GoatCheesewith,9.1,photoandFigCrostini,8.1,photoandStoneFruitSaladwithBalsamicLambChops,8.1,photo
AsparagusArtichoke,andFarroSalad,5.1,photoandArtichokes,NasturtiumSaladwith,9.1,photoEgg,andMushroomStir-Fry,photo,5.2notablevarietiesandPotatoFlatbread,5.1,photoSteamed,ThreeWays,5.1,photoandWatercressPizza,photo,8.2
Avocado(s)
Avocado(s)-and-SproutClubSandwiches,7.1,photoandKaleSaladwithDates,4.1,photonotablevarietiesPistachioGuacamole,10.1,photoandSalmonTartines,10.1,photo
B
Bean(s)Cranberry,SaladwithDelicataSquashandBroccoliRabe,6.1,photoandEscaroleSoup,8.1,photoFava,Creamy,6.1,photoFava,Grilled,6.1,photoGardenGreenswithChoppedEggs,8.1,photoGreen,andWatercressSalad,6.1,photoGreen,ShellBean,andSweetOnionFattoush,6.1,photoGreen,Tempura,6.1,photogreenandwax,notablevarietiesQuick-PickledPods,photo,6.2shell,notablevarietiesSkilletEdamame,Corn,andTomatoeswithBasilOil,6.1,photoStuffedCollardGreens,4.1,photoWax,Roasted,withPeanutsandCilantro,6.1,photoWhite,withDandelionGreensandCrostini,photo,6.2
BeefBrisketwithParsnipsandCarrots,photo,2.2LacqueredShortRibswithCeleryRootPurée,2.1,photoMiniAsianMeatballsinLettuceCups,photo,8.2SkilletSteakPeperonata,10.1,photoandSnap-PeaStir-Fry,6.1,photo
Beet(s)
notablevarietiesandPotato,Roasted,Borscht,photo,2.2RisottowithBeetGreens,2.1,photoSaladwithGingerDressing,2.1,photo
BlackBass,Steamed,withGingerandScallions,photo,1.2BokChoy
Baby,withChile,Garlic,andGinger,4.1,photonotablevarietiesSaladwithCashews,4.1,photo
BreadPuddingHerb-and-Scallion,1.1,photoSpinachandFontinaStrata,photo,8.2
BreadsAsparagusandPotatoFlatbread,5.1,photoFigandArugulaCrostini,8.1,photoGarlic-ScapeToasts,1.1,photoGazpachoAjoBlanco,1.1,photoPotatoDinnerRolls,photo,3.2RadishTartine,2.1,photoSalmonandAvocadoTartines,10.1,photoSweetPotatoYeastedRolls,3.1,photoZucchiniQuick,photo,10.2
BroccoliRoasted,withGratedManchego,9.1,photoShrimp,andShiitakeStir-Fry,9.1,photo
BroccoliRabeandDelicataSquash,CranberryBeanSaladwith,6.1,photoandHamCroqueMonsieurs,4.1,photoandTomatoes,Orecchiettewith,photo,4.2
BrusselsSprout(s)BraisedChickenand,photo,9.2Gratin,Smoky,9.1,photo
Leaves,Crisped,9.1,photoandRutabaga,Roasted,2.1,photoSwissChard,andCabbageSalad,4.1,photo
Bulbs,basicsofBurgers,Green-Pea,withHarissaMayo,photo,6.2Butter,Green-Garlic,1.1,photo
C
CabbageGreen,Creamed,8.1,photonotablevarietiesRed,Braised,8.1,photoShreddedNapa,Salad,8.1,photoSwissChard,andBrusselsSproutsSalad,4.1,photo
Carrot(s)andChard,Rainbow,2.1,photoFries,2.1,photoMoroccanVegetableSoup,2.1,photonotablevarietiesandParsnips,Brisketwith,photo,2.2Roasted,andQuinoawithMisoDressing,photo,2.2Slaw,Sesame,2.1,photoSoup,Spicy,2.1,photo
CauliflowerCapers,andLemon,Bucatiniwith,9.1,photoandCapers,BroiledStripedBasswith,photo,9.2Roasted,withHerbSauce,9.1,photo
CeleryBraised,5.1,photoCilantro,andAlmondSalad,5.1,photo
notablevarietiesCeleryRoot
andPotatoRösti,2.1,photoPurée,LacqueredShortRibswith,2.1,photo
ChardnotablevarietiesRainbow,andCarrots,2.1,photoSwiss,Cabbage,andBrusselsSproutsSalad,4.1,photoSwiss,Lasagna,photo,4.2-TomatoSauté,4.1,photo
CheeseBroccoliRabeandHamCroqueMonsieurs,4.1,photoButternutSquashandTaleggioPizza,10.1,photoFree-FormLasagnawithEdibleWeeds,photo,8.2Goat,withEdibleFlowersandArugula,9.1,photoHatchChileCornPudding,11.1,photoKale-RicottaDip,4.1,photoRoastedBroccoliwithGratedManchego,9.1,photoSkilletPizzawithGreensandEggplant,photo,4.2SmokyBrusselsSproutsGratin,9.1,photoSpinachandFontinaStrata,photo,8.2StuffedTomatoeswithMozzarella,10.1,photoSwissChardLasagna,photo,4.2Tartiflette,3.1,photoWatercressandAsparagusPizza,photo,8.2
ChickenandBrusselsSprouts,Braised,photo,9.2ChilesRellenos,10.1,photoFried,withPuntarelleSalad,8.1,photoandLeeks,Normandy-Style,withCrèmeFraîche,photo,1.2Roast,withOnions,Shallots,Garlic,andScapes,photo,1.2
Chicories,notablevarieties
ChiveBlossoms,Capelliniwith,9.1,photoChutney,Rhubarb,withPorkRoast,5.1,photoCilantro,Celery,andAlmondSalad,5.1,photoClamPanRoastwithFennelandSausage,photo,5.2CollardGreens
FriedRicewith,photo,4.2Stuffed,4.1,photo
CornbasicsofEdamame,andTomatoes,Skillet,withBasilOil,6.1,photoGrilled,withThreeToppings,11.1,photoIceCreamandBlueberryCompote,CornmealShortcakeswith,11.1,photonotablevarietiesPudding,HatchChile,11.1,photoandScallionChilaquiles,photo,11.2Soup,11.1,photoStuffedTomatoeswithMozzarella,10.1,photo
Cucumber(s)andJalapeños,Pickled,10.1,photoMango,andShrimpEscabèche,10.1,photoMelon,andMintSoup,Chilled,10.1,photonotablevarieties
Cupcakes,SpicedParsnip,withCreamCheeseFrosting,2.1,photo
D
DandelionGreensandCrostini,WhiteBeanswith,photo,6.2Dips
Kale-Ricotta,4.1,photoPistachioGuacamole,10.1,photoTomatilloandChipotleSalsa,10.1,photo
Dressing,CreamyGarlic,Parsley,andFeta,1.1,photo
E
EggplantBlistered,withTomatoes,Olives,andFeta,10.1,photoBreaded,withArugulaandParmesan,photo,10.2andGreens,SkilletPizzawith,photo,4.2Miso,10.1,photonotablevarieties
Egg(s)Asparagus,andMushroomStir-Fry,photo,5.2Chopped,GardenGreenswith,8.1,photoCornandScallionChilaquiles,photo,11.2FiddleheadandPotatoHashwith,photo,7.2PadThai,photo,7.2PastaCarbonarawithLeeksandLemon,1.1,photoSquash-BlossomFrittata,9.1,photo
EndiveandFennelSalad,8.1,photoFriséeandRoastedPearSalad,8.1,photo
EscaroleandBeanSoup,8.1,photo
F
Farro,Asparagus,andArtichokeSalad,5.1,photoFennel
andEndiveSalad,8.1,photonotablevarietiesandSausage,ClamPanRoastwith,photo,5.2andSmokedSalmonSalad,5.1,photo
FiddleheadandPotatoHashwithEggs,photo,7.2FigandArugulaCrostini,8.1,photoFish.SeealsoSalmon
BroiledStripedBasswithCauliflowerandCapers,photo,9.2SteamedBlackBasswithGingerandScallions,photo,1.2WholeBakedTroutwithCherryTomatoesandPotatoes,10.1,photo
Flowers,Edible,andArugula,GoatCheesewith,9.1,photoFlowers&buds,basicsofFriséeandRoastedPearSalad,8.1,photoFrittata,Squash-Blossom,9.1,photoFritters,Zucchini-Scallion,10.1,photoFruit.Seealsospecificfruits
botanical,basicsofStone,andArugulaSaladwithBalsamicLambChops,8.1,photo
G
GarlicGazpachoAjoBlanco,1.1,photoGreen-,Butter,1.1,photoMustard-GreensPesto,4.1,photonotablevarietiesOnions,Shallots,andScapes,RoastChickenwith,photo,1.2Parsley,andFetaDressing,Creamy,1.1,photoandSpinachSoup,8.1,photo
Gnocchi,Potato,photo,3.2Greens.Seealsospecificgreens
Baby,withPineNutsandPancetta,8.1,photobasicsofandEggplant,SkilletPizzawith,photo,4.2Sesame,4.1,photo
springandwild,notablevarietiesStuffedTomatoeswithMozzarella,10.1,photo
H
HamandBroccoliRabeCroqueMonsieurs,4.1,photoHandPies,Roasted-Tomato,photo,10.2Herb(s).Seealsospecificherbs
-and-ScallionBreadPudding,1.1,photoSauce,RoastedCauliflowerwith,9.1,photo
I
IceCream,Corn,andBlueberryCompote,CornmealShortcakeswith,11.1,photoIsraeliCouscous
MoroccanVegetableSoup,2.1,photowithParsleyandShallots,1.1,photo
J
JerusalemArtichokes,LambStewwith,photo,3.2Jicama-CitrusSalad,2.1,photo
K
KaleandAvocadoSaladwithDates,4.1,photoandButternutSquashHash,10.1,photoCaldoVerde,4.1,photoChipswithBalsamicGlaze,4.1,photoandLentilBowlwithSprouts,7.1,photo
notablevarieties-RicottaDip,4.1,photo
Kohlrabi,notablevarieties
L
LambChops,Balsamic,ArugulaandStoneFruitSaladwith,8.1,photoStewwithJerusalemArtichokes,photo,3.2
Leaves,basicsofLeek(s)
andChicken,Normandy-Style,withCrèmeFraîche,photo,1.2andLemon,PastaCarbonarawith,1.1,photoandParsnipSoup,2.1,photoandTwice-CookedPotatoCasserole,3.1,photo
LentilandKaleBowlwithSprouts,7.1,photoLettuce
CharredRomaineSalad,8.1,photoCups,MiniAsianMeatballsin,photo,8.2notablevarieties
M
MangoCucumber,andShrimpEscabèche,10.1,photoandTomatoSalad,10.1,photo
Meatballs,MiniAsian,inLettuceCups,photo,8.2Melon,Cucumber,andMintSoup,Chilled,10.1,photoMicrogreens,notablevarietiesMisoEggplant,10.1,photoMushroom(s)
Asparagus,andEggStir-Fry,photo,5.2Broccoli,Shrimp,andShiitakeStir-Fry,9.1,photoPorkScaloppinewithRadicchio,8.1,photoShiitake,andShoots,SesameSalmonwith,7.1,photo
Mussels,Lemon,andShallots,Spaghettiwith,1.1,photoMustardGreens
CaesarSalad,4.1,photonotablevarietiesPesto,4.1,photo
N
NasturtiumSaladwithArtichokesandAsparagus,9.1,photoNoodles
PadThai,photo,7.2Rice,withScallionsandHerbs,1.1,photo
O
Onion(s)Four-,SoupwithGinger,photo,1.2notablevarietiesRings,Beer-Battered,1.1,photoShallots,Garlic,andScapes,RoastChickenwith,photo,1.2Spring,andSalmon,Roasted,photo,1.2
P
Parsnip(s)andCarrots,Brisketwith,photo,2.2Cupcakes,Spiced,withCreamCheeseFrosting,2.1,photo
andLeekSoup,2.1,photoPasta
BucatiniwithCauliflower,Capers,andLemon,9.1,photoCapelliniwithChiveBlossoms,9.1,photoCarbonarawithLeeksandLemon,1.1,photoFree-FormLasagnawithEdibleWeeds,photo,8.2withMarinatedHeirloomTomatoes,10.1,photoOrecchiettewithBroccoliRabeandTomatoes,photo,4.2SpaghettiwithMussels,Lemon,andShallots,1.1,photoSwissChardLasagna,photo,4.2withZucchini,Mint,andPecorino,10.1,photo
Pear,Roasted,andFriséeSalad,8.1,photoPea(s)
GardenGreenswithChoppedEggs,8.1,photoGreen-,BurgerswithHarissaMayo,photo,6.2RisieBisi,6.1,photoSnap-,andBeefStir-Fry,6.1,photoSnow,Sautéed,andPeaShoots,7.1,photoSugarSnap,Blanched,ThreeWays,photo,6.2
PeaShoots,SautéedSnowPeasand,7.1,photoPeppers
Bell,Roasted,10.1,photoBlisteredPadrón,withSeaSalt,10.1,photoChilesRellenos,10.1,photoGrilledRampswithRomesco,1.1,photoHatchChileCornPudding,11.1,photonotablevarietiesPickledJalapeñosandCucumbers,10.1,photoSkilletSteakPeperonata,10.1,photoTomatilloandChipotleSalsa,10.1,photo
Pesto,Mustard-Greens,4.1,photoPickledJalapeñosandCucumbers,10.1,photo
PickledPods,Quick-,photo,6.2PickledRamps,1.1,photoPistachioGuacamole,10.1,photoPizza
ButternutSquashandTaleggio,10.1,photoSkillet,withGreensandEggplant,photo,4.2WatercressandAsparagus,photo,8.2
Pods,basicsofPork.SeealsoSausage(s)
Chops,Roasted,withSweetPotatoesandApples,photo,3.2HamandBroccoliRabeCroqueMonsieurs,4.1,photoPadThai,photo,7.2Roast,RhubarbChutneywith,5.1,photoScaloppinewithRadicchio,8.1,photo
Potato(es).SeealsoSweetPotato(es)andAsparagusFlatbread,5.1,photoandBeet,Roasted,Borscht,photo,2.2CaldoVerde,4.1,photoandCeleryRootRösti,2.1,photoandCherryTomatoes,WholeBakedTroutwith,10.1,photoDinnerRolls,photo,3.2andFiddleheadHashwithEggs,photo,7.2Gnocchi,photo,3.2Mashed,Mrs.Kostyra’s,3.1,photonotablevarietiesSalad,ThreeWays,3.1,photoSalmonChowder,3.1,photoShallots,andChestnuts,Salt-Baked,3.1,photoTartiflette,3.1,photoTwice-Cooked,andLeekCasserole,3.1,photoYukonGoldandSweetPotatoesAnna,3.1,photo
Pudding,HatchChileCorn,11.1,photo
PuntarelleSalad,FriedChickenwith,8.1,photo
Q
QuinoaandRoastedCarrotswithMisoDressing,photo,2.2
R
Radicchio,PorkScaloppiniwith,8.1,photoRadish(es)
CharredRomaineSalad,8.1,photonotablevarietiesRoasted,withCapersandAnchovies,2.1,photoTartine,2.1,photo
RampsGrilled,withRomesco,1.1,photoPickled,1.1,photo
RhubarbChutneywithPorkRoast,5.1,photonotablevarieties
RiceBeetRisottowithBeetGreens,2.1,photoFried,withCollardGreens,photo,4.2RisieBisi,6.1,photo
Roots,basicsofRutabaga
-AppleMash,2.1,photoandBrusselsSprouts,Roasted,2.1,photoMoroccanVegetableSoup,2.1,photo
S
SaladsArugulaandStoneFruit,withBalsamicLambChops,8.1,photoAsparagus,Artichoke,andFarro,5.1,photoBabyGreenswithPineNutsandPancetta,8.1,photoBeet,withGingerDressing,2.1,photoBokChoy,withCashews,4.1,photoCelery,Cilantro,andAlmond,5.1,photoCharredRomaine,8.1,photoCranberryBean,withDelicataSquashandBroccoliRabe,6.1,photoEndiveandFennel,8.1,photoFennelandSmokedSalmon,5.1,photoFriséeandRoastedPear,8.1,photoGardenGreenswithChoppedEggs,8.1,photoGreenBean,ShellBean,andSweetOnionFattoush,6.1,photoGreenBeanandWatercress,6.1,photoJicama-Citrus,2.1,photoKaleandAvocado,withDates,4.1,photoMustard-GreensCaesar,4.1,photoNasturtium,withArtichokesandAsparagus,9.1,photoPotato,ThreeWays,3.1,photoPuntarelle,FriedChickenwith,8.1,photoSesameCarrotSlaw,2.1,photoShreddedNapaCabbage,8.1,photoSwissChard,Cabbage,andBrusselsSprouts,4.1,photoTomatoandMango,10.1,photoTurnip,withBaconVinaigrette,2.1,photo
SalmonandAvocadoTartines,10.1,photoChowder,3.1,photoRoasted,andSpringOnions,photo,1.2Sesame,withShiitakeMushroomsandShoots,7.1,photoSmoked,andFennelSalad,5.1,photo
Salsa,TomatilloandChipotle,10.1,photoSalsify
Gratin,2.1,photonotablevarieties
SandwichesAvocado-and-SproutClub,7.1,photoBroccoliRabeandHamCroqueMonsieurs,4.1,photo
SaucesMustard-GreensPesto,4.1,photoTomato
Sausage(s)CaldoVerde,4.1,photoandFennel,ClamPanRoastwith,photo,5.2
Scallion(s)-and-HerbBreadPudding,1.1,photoandGinger,SteamedBlackBasswith,photo,1.2andHerbs,RiceNoodleswith,1.1,photonotablevarieties
ScapesGarlic-ScapeToasts,1.1,photoOnions,Shallots,andGarlic,RoastChickenwith,photo,1.2
ShallotsFour-OnionSoupwithGinger,photo,1.2Mussels,andLemon,Spaghettiwith,1.1,photoOnions,Garlic,andScapes,RoastChickenwith,photo,1.2andParsley,IsraeliCouscouswith,1.1,photoPotatoes,andChestnuts,Salt-Baked,3.1,photo
Shellfish.SeeClam;Mussels;ShrimpShoots
basicsofandShiitakeMushrooms,SesameSalmonwith,7.1,photo
Shortcakes,Cornmeal,withCornIceCreamandBlueberryCompote,11.1,photoShrimp
ShrimpBroccoli,andShiitakeStir-Fry,9.1,photoCucumber,andMangoEscabèche,10.1,photo
SoupsCaldoVerde,4.1,photoCarrot,Spicy,2.1,photoCorn,11.1,photoEscaroleandBean,8.1,photoFour-Onion,withGinger,photo,1.2GazpachoAjoBlanco,1.1,photoLeekandParsnip,2.1,photoMelon,Cucumber,andMint,Chilled,10.1,photoRoastedBeetandPotatoBorscht,photo,2.2SalmonChowder,3.1,photoSpinachandGarlic,8.1,photoVegetable,Moroccan,2.1,photo
SpinachandFontinaStrata,photo,8.2andGarlicSoup,8.1,photonotablevarieties
Sprout(s)-and-AvocadoClubSandwiches,7.1,photoKaleandLentilBowlwith,7.1,photonotablevarietiesPadThai,photo,7.2
Squash.SeealsoZucchiniAcorn,Roasted,ThreeWays,photo,10.2-BlossomFrittata,9.1,photoButternut,andKaleHash,10.1,photoButternut,andTaleggioPizza,10.1,photoDelicata,andBroccoliRabe,CranberryBeanSaladwith,6.1,photosummer,notablevarieties
winter,notablevarietiesStalksandstems,basicsofStripedBass,Broiled,withCauliflowerandCapers,photo,9.2SweetPotato(es)
andApples,RoastedPorkChopswith,photo,3.2notablevarietiesTwice-CookedPotatoandLeekCasserole,3.1,photoYeastedRolls,3.1,photoandYukonGoldAnna,3.1,photo
T
TomatilloandChipotleSalsa,10.1,photoTomato(es)
andBroccoliRabe,Orecchiettewith,photo,4.2-ChardSauté,4.1,photoCherry,andPotatoes,WholeBakedTroutwith,10.1,photoChilesRellenos,10.1,photoandMangoSalad,10.1,photoMarinatedHeirloom,Pastawith,10.1,photonotablevarietiesOlives,andFeta,BlisteredEggplantwith,10.1,photoRoasted-,HandPies,photo,10.2SauceStuffed,withMozzarella,10.1,photoZucchini“Pasta”Primavera,photo,10.2
Trout,WholeBaked,withCherryTomatoesandPotatoes,10.1,photoTubers,basicsofTurnip(s)
notablevarietiesSaladwithBaconVinaigrette,2.1,photo
W
WatercressandAsparagusPizza,photo,8.2andGreenBeanSalad,6.1,photo
Weeds,Edible,Free-FormLasagnawith,photo,8.2
Z
ZucchiniMint,andPecorino,Pastawith,10.1,photo“Pasta”Primavera,photo,10.2QuickBread,photo,10.2-ScallionFritters,10.1,photo
A B C D E F G H I J K L M N O P Q R S T U V W XY Z
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