Maribel Toledo

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Maribels Guides For The Sophisticated Traveler November 2010

Maribels Guide to Toledo 1

MARIBELS GUIDE TO TOLEDO

INDEX

Web Resources and Travel Planning Page 2

Arriving in Toledo Page 2

Toledos Star Attractions Page 4

Toledo City Tours Page 7

Shopping Page 7

Staying Overnight in Toledo Page 8

Staying Outside of the City Page 10

Tapas and Wine Bars Page 12

Dining in Toledo Page 12


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Maribels Guides For The Sophisticated Traveler September 2010


WEB RESOURCES

www.toledo.es - the official website for the city of Toledo www.toledo-turismo.com/turismo- the tourist office of Toledo

TRAVEL PLANNING SERVICES

Exclusive Travel Planning Services by Iberian Traveler & Maribel's Guides. Contact Maribelto arrange a custom itinerary for your trip to Spain, Portugal or southwest France...

USA Tel: 206.778.0127 / 206.364.6723

ARRIVING IN TOLEDO

By Train

From Puerta de Atocha station, take the new high speed AVANT (a regional AVE), a 30-minute ride for the bargain price of 10!one-way, or 18! round trip. Check the current

schedule at renfe.com. Please make sure to purchase your ticket at least a few days inadvanceor better still, online on the RENFE site. Tickets for the morning departures

from Madrid often sell out, and you will be sorely disappointed if you wait until themorning of your trip to purchase tickets. For a Toledo visit on NYE weekend, all

morning trains were sold out upon our arrival at 9:00 am at Atocha station, but luckily wehad purchased our tickets online. There is only one class of service, tourist, on the

AVANT trains and four cars on each train, carrying 232 passengers. Car 1, next to thebar car, is called a Club Car but costs no more; it simply gives passengers a two and one

seat configuration, thus a quieter ride.

For a full day tour we suggest that you depart on the Avant 08292 train at 9:20 am to

reach the city slightly before monuments open at 10:00 am and that you return on theAvant 08173 at 5:30 in the afternoon. Or if you are a more avid sightseer with a keen

interest in history and great art, you might even want to return later, at 7:30 on the Avant08193. From the Toledo station, a beautiful Neo-mudjar structure, the city bus 5 or 6

(fare: 0.95!) or taxi (5!) will take you up through the Puerta de Bisagra gate to the Plazade Zocodover, the main square and heart of this World Heritage City, to start your tour.

On the square youll find a handy tourist office, the Casa del Mapa, where you can pickup maps and brochures. It opens at 10:00 am. There is also an information booth at the

Toledo train station, a tourist office on the Town Hall Square facing the cathedral and

another across from the main entrance gate, Puerta de Bisagra.

By Car

For those arriving in Toledo by car from Madrid on the toll road, AP 41, when reaching

traffic circle where you will see a branch of the Toledo Tourist Bureau on the square inthe park, take a right turn onto the Calle Alfonso VI which will become Paseo de

Recaredo, drive past the Bisagra Gate and Hostal del Cardenal entrance on your left. A


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short distance further down, on your right, youll find an underground parking garage-justfollow the blue P signs. Across the street from the garage entrance youll see signs for

the escalator, remonte mecnico, that will zip you up to the historic quarter to begin yourtouring, avoiding a long, strenuous uphill walk.

A note on Toledos principal sights:Keep abreast of current exhibits and cultural events,along with current monument opening hours at www.toledo-turismo.com


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TOLEDOS STAR ATTRACTIONS

Alczar

The former fortress (www.museo.ejercito.es), a Nationalist stronghold and scene of fierce

fighting during the Spanish Civil War, has been completely renovated. It reopened in thespring of 2010 to house Spains official Military Museum, the Museo del Ejrcito.

Open 10:00 9:00 in the summer and 10:00 7:00 in the winter, from Tuesday toSaturday. On Sundays it opens from 10:00 3:00 and is closed on Monday as well as

January 1 & 6, May 1, December 24, 25 & 31. Admission: 5!. Free on Sundays, March20, May 18, October 12 and December 6.

Museum - Hospital de Santa Cruz

Can be found at Cervantes, 3, below the Plaza de Zocodover, housed in a 16th century

Renaissance former charity hospital conceived by Cardenal Mendoza. It has moved itsEl Greco collection and has temporarily added seventeen El Greco canvases formerly

housed in the El Greco House-Museum to the downstairs display rooms while the ElGreco House-Museum completes its renovation. Also downstairs youll find a fine

collection of Flemish tapestries. Upstairs youll find a very interesting Ceramics museumdisplaying beautiful works from all of Spains ceramics producing regions from Talavera

to Manises to Catalunya. Entrance is free. Open Monday - Saturday from 10:00 - 6:30,Sunday from 10:00 - 2:00. Closes January 1 & 5 and December 25.

ElGreco Museum

Is currently closedfor a complete redo with no re-opening date yet set.

Note: One El Greco masterpiece, View from Toledo is exhibited in the Victorio Machomuseum. Open Monday - Saturday from 10:00 - 7:00, Sunday 10:00 - 3:00.

Santa Mara la Blanca

The 12th century Moorish-built synagogue has undergone a beautiful restoration of its

tiny interior and is currently the administration of a community of cloistered nuns. It andthe Synagogue of the Transit are the only two that survive of the twelve original Toledo

synagogues. It opens daily from 10:00 - 6:00 (until 7:00 in summer). Entrance fee is!2,30.

Mezquita de Cristo de la Luz

The tiny, square mosque, built in 922, is the oldest building remaining in the city, and is

open Monday to Friday from 10:00 - 2:00 and 3:30 5:45. Open in the summer until6:45. On Saturday and Sunday its open from 10:00 - 5:45, 6:45 pm in the summer.

Entrance fee is also 2,30!.

Monasterio de San Juan de los Reyes

The Franciscan monastery-church was founded in 1476 by the Catholic Monarchs and

originally designated to be the final resting place of Ferdinand and Isabella. But the


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surrender of Granada in 1472 was an event of such magnitude that it caused the King andQueen to change their burial plans, and the Royal Chapel of Granada became their

mausoleum. The monastery has an elegant Gothic cloister (www.sanjuandelosreyes.org).It opens daily from 10:00 5:45, and in the summer until 7:00 pm. Entrance fee is 2,30!.

CathedralThe enormous 13th century Gothic Cathedral can best be seen in its entirely (including

Chapter House, Choir, Treasuryand Sacristy filled with El Grecos

plus a Caravaggio, Van Dyck anda Goya) by renting the excellent

audio guide available in theMuseum gift shop across from the

visitors entrance at the PuertaLlana, where one must purchase

the cathedral admission ticket.

Audio guide costs 3!, while the

entrance cost is 7!. Note: thecathedral is closed to tourist visits

on Sunday mornings, December25 and January 1 & 6. Regular

visiting hours are Monday - Saturday 10:30 - 6:30, Sundays and holidays from 2:00 -6:30 (www.architoledo.org/cathedral/mosaico.htm).


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Iglesia de Santo Tom

To view El Grecos most famous work, the Burial of the Count of Orgaz, youll find it on

display covering an entire wall at the diminutive Iglesia de Santo Tom, but beware ofthe heavy tour bus crowds (www.santotome.org). Best to be at the door upon opening at

10:00 or a half hour before closing. Open daily from10:00 6:00 (in summer until 7:00).Admission: 2,30!

Sephardic Museum and Synagogue of the Transit

In the 11thcentury Toledo was home to the largest population of Jews in Spain. This

museum sits alongside the 14thcentury synagogue, Sinagoga del Trnsito, built for

Peter the Cruels treasurer, Samuel Levi,and is Spains National Museum of Hispano-

Jewish and Sepharic Art (www.museosefardi.net). It houses an impressive collection ofartifacts of Jewish culture.

The museum is open from December 8 - February 14 from 10:00 - 6:00, and fromFebruary 15 December 7 from 10:00 - 9:00, making it the last tourist site to close in the

evening. Closed on Mondays, January 1, May 1, December 24, 25, 31 and all holidays.

Entrance fee is 2.40!. Audio guides are available in English for 3!. The museum is free

on Saturday afternoons and Sunday mornings.

Iglesia de San Romn

Within this church, a fascinating mixture of architectural styles, youll find the Museum

of Visigothic Art, Museo de los Concilios y Cultura Visigoda, with a collection of VI,

VII, VIII century artifacts from the former Visigothic kingdom of Toledo. Open Tuesdayto Saturday from 10:00 2:00 and 4:00 - 6:30, Sundays and holidays from 10:00 2:00.

Closed Mondays. Admission is free.


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TOLEDO CITY TOURS

There are two private tour companies offering reasonably priced city tours,

(www.conocetoledo.comand www.toledopaisajes.com). Tours are given in English ondemand; otherwise, participants are given an audio guide to follow in English (and other

languages). Must reserve by phone or by email and NOT at Tourist Office across fromcathedral.

For those visiting the city with limited mobility, electric cars can be rented for 2 hours fora cost of 40!. A much cheaper option is to take the open-air tourist Choo-Choo, the

Zocotren, which departs from the Plaza de Zocodover for a ride to the major monuments.

SHOPPING

If youre a lover of marzipan, head straight to Mazapanes Santo Tom on Calle Santo

Tom, the principal artery running along the tourist path in the Judera, or former Jewish

quarter. Just look for the gigantic marzipan cathedral in the store window! Youll find

another branch on the Plaza Zocodover.About the ubiquitous damascene (damasquinado) ware, which is hammered black steelwith gold inlay, done in jewelry, pill boxes, swords and any number of trinkets, Im just

no longer a fan due to sheer overkill of shops and hard sell of shopkeepers hawking it.But if this typical Toledan ware strikes your fancy, be sure to purchase it at a shop

displaying the official seal of authenticity and avoid the first shop on the left on CalleComercio which leads down to the cathedral.

A trustworthy shop, whose artisan-owner has been featured in articles in leading Spanishtravel magazines-Simn Artesanaon Plaza San Vicente 1.

For lovely hand embroidered linens (placemats, tablecloths, napkins, pillow covers) from

the village of Lagartera in the Toledo province, youll find a reputable shop, BordadosVelascoon Calle Alfonso X at number 12 in the historic quarter.

For handsome ceramics from the towns of Puente El Arzobispo and Talavera de la Reina,

go to Pincel y Barro Cermica Artsticaon Calle del Real Arrabal 32, below and onopposite side of Hotel Abad, near the Bisagra Gate.

NOTABLE WINES FROM THE CASTILLA-LA MANCHA D.O.

Dominio de Valdepusa Petit Verdot 2004 Dominio de Valdepusa Caliza 2004 El Vnculo Reserva 2002

El Vnculo Crianza 2004 Condes de Leganza Crianza 2003 Finca Antigua Crianza 2004


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NOTES ON OVERNIGHTING IN TOLEDO

Although most people tour Toledo on a full day-trip from Madrid, the citys charms are

best appreciated at night, after the hordes of bus tours and day trippers have disappearedand the hundreds of tourist shops, literally door-to-door, selling swords, damascene ware

and other trinkets have closed. On a day visit Toledo can easily appear a city driven byand surviving on tourism alone, while at night it becomes a much more pleasant, even

magical place for a stroll along its silent, cobblestone maze of steep, narrow streets.

ACCOMMODATIONS IN TOLEDO

3-star Hostal del Cardenal (moderate)

For first time visitors, to appreciate the charms of the city, I highly recommend a stay in

one of two highly atmospheric inns. For those on a moderate budget, I continue torecommend a Karen Brown and Alistair Sawday favorite, the seigniorial 3-star Hostal del

Cardenal (hostaldelcardenal.com), a former 18th century archbishops mansion in pale

brick, located on the ring road, Paseo de Recaredo, but tucked into the citys thick,fortified walls, right at the Bisagra gate. Its romantic, quiet and filled with beautifulantiques and ceramics in its several sitting rooms, although the guest rooms themselves,

below wood beamed ceilings, have simple, traditional hand-carved Castilian furniture,wrought iron lamps and tiled floors. The modern baths are decorated with hand-painted

blue tiles. There are lots of nooks and crannies in which to sit, and the fountain filledMoorish gardens are very inviting.

Since access to the hotel is through three tiers of gardens, up several flights of steps, Idont recommend it for the elderly or those traveling with small children. And the hotel

is not elevator equipped. Ive found little help from the staff in navigating my luggagefrom parking lot to room, so be prepared to carry your own luggage up to the check in

desk. The hotels adjacent restaurant is run by the owners of Botn in Madrid and servesits legendary specialties of roast lamb and roast suckling pig plus the signature Toledan

dish of roast partridge (perdiz estofado). Its particularly pleasant for summer nightdining on the lovely terrace surrounded by the walled garden and fountains.

There are a few parking spots available in front of the hotel entrance, in a tiny public lot,but they fill by 10:00. Guests must then park in the underground public lot just below the

hotel on the right side of the Paseo going down the hill. For easy access up to the maintourist sites, one can take the escalator across the way from the underground lot, built into

the Arab walls. Look for the yellow sign indicating remonte mecnico. Breakfast atthe Cardenal is buffet and rather ordinary. The hotel has 18 doubles, 3 singles, 6 triples

and 2 suites with sitting room and private terrace-great for honeymooners.

4-star Sercotel Pintor El Greco (moderate)

A more prosaic choice than the antique-filled Hostal del Cardenal, this well-run, fairly

priced inn lies in the very heart of the Jewish quarter, next to the (still closed) House-Museum of El Greco and within easy walking distance of the citys monumental

treasures (www.hotelestoledo.net). It is a typical Toledo dwelling from the 17th century,a former bakery, converted into a comfortable 60-room inn, including three jr. suites and


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one suite. It received its fourth star with the recent addition of nine rooms, all withexposed brick and stone and wood beams. Amenities include individually controlled a/c,

in room safe, mini bar, complimentary Wi-Fi, writing desk. Non-smoking rooms areavailable and some offer Jacuzzi baths.

5-star FontecruzPalacio Eugenia de Montijo (moderately expensive)

For those who wish to splurge, I suggest the elegant (but not overpriced) 5-star Fontecruz

Palacio Eugenia de Montijo (www.palacioeugeniademontijo.com), the most luxuriouslodging within the city walls. Opened in 06, it has 40 rather plush rooms with handmade

carpets and antique furnishings plus large marble baths, a lovely and tranquil atriumlobby with beautiful dome, a spa with hamaam and a well-regarded gourmet restaurant,

Belvs, a member of the prestigious Adolfo group. Wi-Fi is complimentary. Theres easyaccess to the hotel from the ring road and a handy public garage just around the corner

has a special rate for guests of 17!/day. (The parking spots on the square belong toresidents.) Its a member of Fontecruz hotels, a four and five-star group with lovely

properties also in Granada, Sevilla and Cceres. Prices here run equal to (or sometimesbelow) those at the Parador.

2-star Hostal Santa Isabel (budget)

A very affordable budget option located on a quiet side street in the center of the historic

quarter, this 42-room inn is housed in a 15th

century building with roof terrace boastinglovely, panoramic views (www.hotelsantaisabel.net). The superior double rooms with

views (some with balconies) run from !65-80 euros, depending on the season. Somerooms are large enough to accommodate a family of four, and some are non-smoking.

The simply decorated rooms come equipped with a/c, satellite TV and small baths. Thereis an elevator and complimentary Wi-Fi in the lobby.


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STAYING OUTSIDE OF THE CITY

Parador de Toledo(moderately expensive)

For repeat visitors with a car, or a family traveling with small children, not wishing to

spend the entire day pounding the well trodden tourist trail, I have often recommended

the modern Parador de Toledo, with outdoor pool (seasonal). This Parador is located 4kilometers outside of town, up in the Cigarrales zone, atop the Cerro del Emperador hill,

across the Tagus River (a cigarral meaning a summer residence of 17th centuryaristocrats). From this vantage point, one can enjoy perfect photo ops of the entire city

encircled by the river.

The Toledo Parador has emerged from a top-to-bottom refurbishment, and the large guest

quarters have been appointed with contemporary blond wood furnishings (some with 4-poster beds) and completely remodeled baths. We recently stayed in room 417 (the pre-

renovation room 14), THE room with the perfect city view with wrap-around balcony andseating on both sides. The view from this perch across the Tagus is simply priceless.

Toledo, a living museum, looks even more dramatic and compelling from this angle.Sunrises and sunsets are magical from this vantage point.

The disadvantage of a Parador stay, the additional cost of taxi fare to and from the city.A recent taxi ride, called from the Parador to take us down to the Plaza Zocodover cost

8.90!, while the return trip (taxi caught from tourist office near Bisagra Gate) cost 5.60!.The Parador does offer a shuttle with limited runs, but the hours are not at all handy for

sightseeing.

Toledos highly dramatic skyline is only visible from outside of town, across the Tagus,

so if you stay inside the city walls, make sure to take a taxi drive or drive yourself up to


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the Circunvalacin ring road to the Parador or other Cigarrales area hotels/restaurants toenjoy this truly unforgettable view.

4-star AC Ciudad de Toledo (moderately expensive)

This contemporary style, business class hotel serves as an excellent alternative to theParador (but without the pool) for those passing through by car (free parking) andwishing the peace and quiet of a location in the country (www.ac-hotels.com). It also lies

on the ring road, but closer to the city, with a city bus stop right outside the door. Thebus runs by every hour and the ride takes a short 10 minutes. Taxi fare to and from the

city is slightly lower here due to the closer proximity to the city gates. The AC enjoysthe same fantastic panoramic views of the city as well.

Rooms come equipped with the usual AC features of very comfortable beds, plenty ofpillows, sparkling clean baths, powerful hair dryers, free mini bar (mineral water, juices,

sodas) and powerful a/c. The superior rooms offer bathrobes and slippers. In all AChotels, there is a charge for in room Internet access, but Wi-Fi is available in the lobby-

lounge. Not all rooms have terraces with splendid views, so be sure to upgrade to a roomwith a view.

Hilton Buenavista (expensive)

If youre looking for 5-star luxury with a view, you might consider the Hilton Buenavista,

2 kilometers outside the city with lovely views of the city from afar. The hotel offers allthe usual Hilton amenities in a completely refurbished 16th century palace. The owner

has included a small museum to display his impressive private art collection. The hoteldoes offer shuttle service three times daily to pick guests up at the train station and to

take them into the city for touring. The very ample sized, plush guest rooms have theusual Hilton creature comforts, including king beds, a sofa, work desk, 32-inch flat

screen TV, Wi-Fi, iron and ironing board, coffee maker, nightly turndown service. Theopulent marble baths have separate shower stall with rain head, and bathrobes and

slippers are provided in the deluxe rooms.

There is a full service spa with up to date exercise equipment, treatment rooms, and

hydrotherapy pool as well as a kids club. The outdoor pool is seasonal, open from lateJune to mid-September. Dining options included the formal gourmet restaurant brought

by the prestigious Goizeko group of the Basque country and Madrid, a pool side Tajoriver terrace, a more casual Toledana bar and restaurant that serves casual fare and the

buffet breakfast. Theres also a Cigar Lounge. The hotel has contracted a Jazz quintet toperform on Friday and Saturday nights.

Disadvantages of staying at the Hilton: youre an 8!taxi ride from the city if you dontwish to depend on the shuttle bus schedule or walk to the city bus stop, the hotel is off a

busy highway, the incidentals here (spa treatments, food, drinks, internet access) do notcome cheap, and the views arent quite as spectacular as the ones at the Parador. And

count on paying rates of 170-200! and up unless youre redeeming Hilton points.(www.1hilton.com)


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TAPAS AND WINE BARS

Taberna El Antojo

Bajada de San Juan de los Reyes in the historic quarter near the Monastery of San Juan

de los Reyes is a local watering hole with nice tapas and wines by the glass.

Taberna Botero

Ciudad 5, behind the Town Hall (Ayuntamiento), this lively and informal tavern is a good

option for a wine and small plates dinner.

DINING IN TOLEDO

For dining in the heart of Toledo, I highly recommend four spots, three for more

moderately priced, casual fare and the fourth, a true gourmet treasure that will pleasethe most discriminating palates.

Adolfo Coleccin 1924

This wine bar/gourmet shop/casual dining venue is a member of the Adolfo group of

dining venues belonging to local restaurateur and wine maker Adolfo Muoz and lieswithin close proximity of the Cathedral on Nuncio Viejo 1 (www.grupoadolfo.com). The

ground floor houses the 300 bottle wine collection and delicatessen where visitors canshop for gourmet gifts such as cheeses, honey, olive oils and wine, and upstairs theres anopen kitchen where one can have wine and tapas or a bargain 12.90!men del da. Open

daily from noon until midnight.

Los Cuatro Tiempos

Located in the historic quarter at Sixto Ramn Parro, 5, in an 16th century building, thispopular spot (www.restauranteloscuatrotiempos.com) serves a good value men del da

for 19!. Tel: (+34) 925 223 782

Alfileritos 24*

A casual yet sophisticated dining spot located blissfully away from the tourist hordes at

Calle Alfileritos, 24, and a favorite of local business types, it is housed in an ancient 14th

century Toledo building with central atrium on several floors (www.alfileritos24.com).

The ground floor space serves as a tapas bar/tavern, serving a Monday - Friday bargain

priced lunch menu for 9.90!, while the more formal and quite stylish dining rooms are

found upstairs. On our last visit we chose to dine upstairs and took advantage of the verywell priced three course set menu for 17.50!(including bread, water and a glass of wine),which changes regularly, served for lunch only, Monday - Friday. There is also a

childrens menu, English menu, free Wi-Fi, and several dishes are gluten-free andvegetarian friendly. The restaurant and tavern are open daily from 10:00 am until

midnight. Tel: (+34) 925 239 625


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Locum**

This atmospheric gourmet restaurant (www.locum.es) can be found near the cathedral,

around the corner and down the narrowCalle Locum from Los Cuatro Tiempos

restaurant. Its also housed in a 3-storyancient mansion and dining here is a very

leisurely affair with highly polished servicethat comes with its gourmet pedigree. The

degustation menu of three half-starters, afish, meat, water, dessert and coffee cost

only !40. Our meal of two courses,including a first course of half-portions of

starters, a bottle of Castilla-La Manchawine and coffee (with plate of chocolates)

came in at 90!. A very elegant experience

and worth the short train trip from Madridjust to dine. The one to watch! It receivesa 7/10 rating in the 10 Gourmetour guide

and has been awarded a Repsol Guide sol(equivalent to a Michelin star). Chef

Vctor Snchez Beato serves a terrific foieand loin of venison with quince paste,

cheese and hazelnuts, along with deliciousdesserts such as the warm marzipan cake

with cheese and maracuy ice cream. It closes Monday night and all day Tuesday plus thelast two weeks of August. One should reserve ahead, Tel: 925 223 235.

ADDITIONAL DINING RECOMMENDATIONS IN TOLEDO

Restaurante La Ermita

A NY Times article by Dale Fuchs recommended this restaurant for cliff side dining in

the storehouse of a 15th century sanctuary but with modern decor. Its found on the

Carretera de Circunvalacin on the road leading up to the Parador. The 10 Gourmetourguide gives it a 6.5/10 rating and praises its well-chosen wine list. Specialties include

black rice with baby clams and artichokes, venison medallions served with a teriyakisauce, puff pastry cones filled with cream cheese and ice cream. Closed on Sunday night

and all day Monday. Average check: 45!/person. Tel: (+34) 925 253 193

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