Made in American: Wool from Sheep to Shelf Lisa Surber, PhD
Montana Wool Lab Montana Wool Lab
Slide 2
Measuring Wool Subjective measurements of wool to determine its
quality and value (i.e. grade) has been practiced within the sheep
industry for decades, the way the industry measures fiber diameter
has been modified and changed with advances in wool technology.
Objective fiber testing can be a powerful marketing and selection
tool. It allows breeder to make selections and track improvements
in breeding programs (NSIP). From a commercial producers
perspective it can be equally important because it gives them an
actual micron and not one persons opinion of grade.
Slide 3
Fiber Diameter Fiber diameter is a function of both genetics
and environmental conditions such as nutrition of the animal.
Nutrition can play a huge role. As the plane of nutrition increases
wool micron will get coarser.
Slide 4
Fiber Diameter When a potential buyers looks at the raw micron
value of a ram he/she should really examine the condition of that
ram. Rams that have been fed up and are in really good condition
(maybe even fat) for ram sales will be the coarsest they will ever
be in their life and under range conditions will get finer. Another
indication of fiber diameter is the micron EPD. A ram with a fiber
diameter EPD of 0 is average for the Targhee breed and equates to a
clip micron of around 22 microns. Negative fiber diameter EPD will
producer offspring that are finer, positive micron EPD will produce
offspring that are coarser.
Slide 5
Slide 6
Fiber Diameter Thickness of Fiber measured in Microns A micron
is 1 millionth of a meter 1/25,400 th of an inch Average of
thousands of fiber measurements Wool Growth is not uniform on the
animal 2 fibers growing next to each other Along the growth of a
single fiber Spinning Count: the hanks (560 yards) of yarn from a
pound of top.
Slide 7
Standard Deviation (SD) Statistical measurement of the
variability 2/3 of the fibers fall with in +/- a SD of the mean or
average Smaller the number, the more uniform the sample The finer
the average fiber diameter the smaller the SD.
Slide 8
Standard Deviation (SD) Example: 23 micron AFD & SD of 3.0
micron 2/3 of fiber measure between 20 26 micron Why is this
important? Uniformity affects wool processing outcome spinning of
yarn, uniformity and appearance of product
Slide 9
Coefficient of Variation (%CV) Variability expressed in a
percentage % CV = SD / AFD x 100 Useful as it allows for
comparisons of uniformity with differing AFDs Ideally, an
individual animal sample should have a %CV less than 20%
Slide 10
Comfort Factor (% CF) Percentage of fibers equal to or less
than 30 micron in diameter Opposite of Prickle Factor (negative
term) Fibers over 30 micron in diameter are rigid and do not bend
when they contact the skin Products made to be worn next to the
skin require a comfort factor of 95% or more
Slide 11
Histogram A graph showing measurement breakdown of the wool
sample AFD Quick and easy way to view the sample for AFD, SD, and
CV
Slide 12
Micron Profile Along Staple Fiber Diameter Measurements Left
side tip, Right side base of fiber Can see how environmental
differences are affecting the AFD during the growing season Unlike
an EKG a Flat Line is Good
Slide 13
Micron Profile Drastic changes in diameter can cause a weakness
in the fiber strength and can impact processing ability (breaks)
Use the information to make management decisions to grow more sound
wool Shearing in relationship to lambing Feeding strategies
Slide 14
Slide 15
Curvature Measurement of the crimp Correlated with Bulk and
Resistance to Compression ratios Still debating what it really
means and how it affects processing performance of wool
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Slide 18
Fee Services Wool Samples Wool Samples OFDA 2000 13,714 samples
as of 1/9/14, up 25% in 12 months OFDA 2000 13,714 samples as of
1/9/14, up 25% in 12 months OFDA 100 872 samples OFDA 100 872
samples Fabric 1,117 samples Fabric 1,117 samples Biggest area of
growth in fee services is on-site use of the OFDA Biggest area of
growth in fee services is on-site use of the OFDA
Slide 19
Worldwide shortage of 21-24 micron wools
Slide 20
US-Made Socks are HOT! Companies like Fox River, Wigwam, Darn
Tough, Title9, and Filson are making a Made in the USA sock
FITS
Slide 21
Made in the USA with American Wool
Slide 22
New Wool Products Superwash Machine wash and tumble dry on low
Wool shrink treatment processing (Chargeurs Wool USA Jamestown, SC)
Washable wool process to US that is currently being done overseas
Applied to a sliver of top, created after combing and produces
shrink-resistant wool top US military is the largest consumer of
domestic wool Berry Amendment: requires all textile processes and
products to be entirely of US origin; otherwise they cannot be used
by DOD
Slide 23
Science of Superwash Process exposes fiber to a mild chlorine
solution, rinsed, polymer resin is added to fiber Treatment allows
fiber to be machine- washed without felting Wool fibers are
composed of a series of overlapping scales The Superwash process
adheres these scales to one another, after which the fiber can be
machine-washed.
Slide 24
AUSTUS AUST Micron21.5 Crimp/in189 Curv.11083 NZ Bulk3327 US
wool is superior to Australian wools for some knitting
purposes
Slide 25
The future
Slide 26
Increased demand for next to skin fabrics in knitting industry
Companies like Ramblers Way, Icebreaker, Title 9, VOORMI, and
IBEX
Slide 27
From Sheep to Shop, Ibex Introduces 100% U.S. Resources in Shak
Lite Line for Fall 2012