m t tt - Forgotten Books · It will prove a valuable reference book for use by manufacturers, ... -block printing in colors over a jacquard de ... -SHAKI. A rich E ast India silk

A ribbon shop and fash ions in the t ime ofMar ie Anto inette .

A DICTIONARY,

ofSILK TE RMS

NEW YORK

I ssued by THE AM ERI CANSI LK JOURNAL.

CLI FFORD LAWTON , Publishers

INTRODUCTION

N preparing this book it has been our

obj ect to present a carefully compiled ,complete and authentic dictionary of

the descript ive,commercial and bi stori

cal s ilk terms employed in the silk

world,as related to every state o f manufactured goods

,

from the raw silk to the finished broad and narrow

silks,including weaves

,styles

,patterns

,woven

,printed

and color effects,etc .

It will prove a valuable re ference book for use

by manufacturers,stylers

,the buyers o f s ilk goods

and wholesale and retail salesmen . To the silk student

it is a short cut to a quick and reliable understanding

o f technical matters not to be found in text books .Before publication in book form this D ict ionary

of S i lk Terms was brought to the notice o f the for e

most fabric and style experts for full and free eriti

cism,revision and amendment and

,therefore

,cannot

fail to prove o f value as a handy reference work in

the mill and in wholesale and retai l s ilk departments

everywhere . In this bel ie f we send it forth on itsmiss ion to the silk manufacturers and trade .

I ‘ M n I1"I

DICTIONARY

ABBATRE . Patterns showing depressed effects .

AB I s MESSALINE TAE FE TA. Trade name for a

high - grade taffeta with messaline finish . The nameAbi s” ofno special Or definite significance .

AD - HOCK . A trade name appl ied to over- print

ing ; hand - block printing in colors over a j acquard design .

AGRA GAUZE,GAZE D ’AGRA . A strong

,tran spar

ent,gauze - like silk fabric .

A JOUR . Openwork effect .

ALBA VELVET . Brand name for a j acquard velvet .

ALEXANDRIA . Prior to the Seventh Century, Alex

andria was well known for its silk manufactures .

ALGERIAN S ILK . Brand name for a coarse rough

silk .

"Reg.

ALLE PPO. Famous for its silks,S ixteenth Cen

ALLOVERS . Relating to the design which covers ,as distinguished from fragmentary moti fs

,borders or

stripes .

ALMA . Cloth ofdouble twill weave running diagonally from left to right . Originally made in black for

mourning wear .

"RE G. : Regis tered in the Regis tered Trade Mark B ureau

of the Silk Ass ocia tion ofAmerica .

8 A D I C T I O N A R Y

ANAPHE S ILK . A species o f wild silk produced

in A frica by the Anaphe s ilkworm .

ANAPHE S ILKWORM . A genus ofsilkworm found

in Uganda and other parts o f A frica . Feeds on the

leaves o f a species o f fig tree . The nest and cocoons

which are formed in considerable numbers,are used for

waste s ilk . In“

Southern N igeria - anaphe silk is used bvthe natives In con j unction with cotton for making th

so—called' “soyan” cloths .

ANAToLIA . Famous for its silk stuffs,S ixteenth

Century .

ANTHE REA . A genus ofmoths belonging to the

bombyx and silk—div i sion ; the leading varieties are :

A . Paphia or tussah, A . mylitta, A .

’

pernyi, A . Muga ,

or assamo,A: meeankoorie, A . roylei .

ANTIQUE . Applied to certain fabrics in imitation

o f the s ilk stuffs offormer centuries ; instance; satin

antiques,m01ré antiques

,etc .

APPLIQUE . Materials cut out and sewed , embroidered or pasted on other materials .

ARABESQUE . A style o f scroll design,famous in

the S ixteenth Century . Patterns o f an Arabic nature .

ARI DAs .- A glossy silk fabric of smooth texture .

ARMENIA . Noted for its silk stuffs , S ixteenth Cen

ARMORCLAD . Trade name for a double- warp taf

feta o i great strengt h and wear ;

ARMOZEEN . A stout black silk used chiefly for

hat bandsf

OF S I L K T E R M S 9

ARMURE . A twilled weave showing a broken rib

or pebbled surface .

ARMURE—LAINE . A heavy ribbed or corded silk ,woo l - filled .

Armure—laine.

ARMURE SAT I N EE . A s ilk showing a fine twill

armure sur face and satin back .

ARRASENE . A cord or thread o f s ilk or wo ol ;resembles chenille ; used for embroidery .

ARTIFI CIAL S ILK . An imitation of natural silk,secured by treating' cellulose obtained from any source

,

usually cotton waste or wood pulp,by variou s processes

,


the chie f obj ect ofwhich i s to impregnate the cellulo se

with nitrogen .

ART SERGE . Any fabric o f a serge character in

esthetic colors .

ASSOUPLAGE . The French term for the processby which s ouple silk is produced .

ASTRAKHAN . The name given to a looped pile

fabric o f a coarse texture presenting a curious curlv

surface . These fabrics are produced in two ways

1. On the weft principle,a shrinkage of the

ground texture throwing the pile weft up as a loop .

2 . As a warp texture,in which a thick curly warp

yarn is brought over wires to form the necessary loops .

ATHENS . Famous for its silk stuffs as early as

the S ixth Century .

ATLAS . A rich fabric woven in India ; the At

tacas Atlas , the largest of s ilk moths producing a silk

o f great strength and weight .ATTACUS . A genus of s ilk moth formerly re

garded as a class o f wild silkworms ; the genus includesthe A . warm

,or eria

,A . Cynthia,

ailan thus,A . atlas

,

and A . selene.

AUNE .. The one and a quarter yard folds o f s ilk

goods folded in the piece are called aunes . Same as

E 11,which see .AURANG - SHAKI . A rich E ast India s ilk fabric .

Aurang meaning “throne,

” it was probably a silk used

for covering the throne o f a H indu King .

AUREOLE. The line or ring that appears round a

cleaned spot on a fabric .

AUSTRIA . S ilk weaving commenced about one

O F S I L’

K T E R M S 11

hundred and twenty—fiv e years ago , when Ital ian weav

ers were operating ov er one thousand looms in or near

Vienna .

AYAS . A so ft Japanese twill . A trade name .

BABY RIBBON . A term applied to the narrowest

of ribbons— widths usually favored for infants’ wear .

BACKED CLOTHS . Cloths which are made thick by

extra weft,extra warp

,or another ply o f cloth p ro

cessed on the back .

BACKING . The weft or warp employed in form

ing the back o f a faced cloth .

BAGDAD . Trade name for an Oriental novelty of

recent origin .

BAKST DESIGNS . In the style o f Leon B akst ,best known for his costume designs for the RussianBallet . Barbaric, O riental feeling expressed in a man

ner all ied to the Futurist . Crude form s in strongcolors without shading— vigorous and sensuous .

BALDACHINE . A Medieval Silk fabric embroid

ered with gold ; was made at Damascus .

BAMBERG . The Lyons Museum at Bamberg'

possesses extraordinary examples o f si lks from the Tenth

to the Twel fth Century .

BANDANNA . A handkerchief of s ilk or cotton in

which spots or, figures are left white upon a red or

blue ground .

BARATHEA . A fine texture o f broken weft—rib

character or armure weave . O riginally adopted as aspecific registered trade name for an armure tie - silk ,and now generally used in the trade to describe tie

silks o f this particular armure w eave .


BAREGE . Sheer stuff of Silk and wool for veiling. Made largely near Bareges , France .

BARRE . S triped laterally, in same direction as thefill ing ; s imilar to travers . Showing transverse bars

,

as the “barrel owl .”

BASKET E FFECT . An order of basket- l ike inter

section ofwarp and weft, giving an enlarged hopsack

or mat appearance in the woven material , hence theSpecial name .

BASKET WEAVE .

‘ A variation of the plain weave

in which the same crossing ofwarp and weft i s re

peated as o ften as the size of the pattern requires .

BATISTE. A sheer fabr ic of Silk and linen woven

plain or with silk or Satin stripes . There are also

bati stes of cotton and ofwool .BAVE . French for the double thread as present

in the cocoon .

BAYADERE . Showing straight or undulating cross

stripes— usually in alternated and brilliant colors

with startling and bizarre effect . Name derived fromB ayadere (or

“Bajadere”

) dancing girl s o f the underworld in India

,dedicated from thei r birth to the li fe ;

the striped garment being supplemented with filmy

scar f or shawl,j eweled trousers , bangles , gold sequins ,

anklets , etc .

BAYADERE MOIRE . Same as above, with watered

effect added .

BEAD E DGE . A series o f looped threads edging a

ribbon,picot edge

,which see .

O F S I L K T E R M S

BEDFORD CORD . A texture in which the interlac

ing is so arranged that a warp surface fabric is pro

duced with a rounded co rd effect, running warp way ,the indented effect being produced by two threads

wo rking plain .

BEEGE . A fabric —

of a twi ll character , somewhatloose in texture .

B edford cord .

BEIGE . Cloth offine texture,woven from double

and twist yarns ‘ in which the two threads are of different colo rs

,or wherein printed yarns are employed .

BENGAL . The -raw s ilk gathered in the Indian

province ofBengal ; a striped musl in .

BEN GALINE . A plain,round- co rded weave, more

or less heavy,o f the poplin family . May be of silk

14;‘

A D I C T I O N A R Y

warp and wool or cotton filling or of all silk, which

latter would be called Bengaline de Soie . Name derived from Bengal

,India

,famous for its production

of various rich and peculiar stuffs of silk,woo l and

cotton .

‘ BENGALINE DE SOIE .-A plain

,corded weave

,re

sembling poplin,with warp and weft of s ilk .

BENGALINE RADIANT . A fancy bengaline h aving

a heavy so ft weft , the fabric surface radiantly reflect

ing the light in po ints . Regf

BENGALINE VELOURS . A h eavy piece—dyed so ft

finished bengaline . Reg .

BENGAL PONGEE . Brand name for a pongee s ilk .

BERBER . Light - weight satin— faced fabric ; came

into favor about the time o f the defeat o f the Berbers

in the war against the Mahdi in'

North A fr ica .

B E YROUT . Famous for its silks , S ixteenth Cen

BINDING THREADS . . Threads employed to unite

two or more textures into one firm structure .

B IRD’

s—E YE . A class o f fabric patterns based on

the diamond twill , the special f eature of which is asmall dot in the center of each figure .

B IRE TZ . A revers ible double— faced Cloth of s ilkand wool

,one .side o f which shows a corded weave and

the other a cashmere or twill weave . Also called “E lec

toral

O F S I L K T E R M S 15

B LEACHING . The Whitening O f textile materials

in the raw, semi—manufactured, or fully- manufacturedstate by “grassing

,

”

or by chemical means .

BLOCK ; The pasteboard rolls on which ribbons

are blocked .

BLOCK PRINTING . The method of printing byblocks

,as distinguished from printing with rollers .

BLOOM . A glaucous appearance like the bloom on

the.

peach and the plum,imparted to s ilk and pile

fabrics either by the nature o f the weave or the finish .

BLOTCH GROUND or BLOTCH PRINTING . Printed

s ilk,the ground o f which is printed in black or color .

Also applied to indistinct printed patterns .

B LUTEAU . See bolting cloth .

BOILED - OFF S ILK . Degummed silk .

BOILING- OFF . Same as degumm ing. The opera

tion o f removing, by means o f a hot l iqu id and soap

suds,the gum which cov ers the raw silk fiber

BOLTING CLOTH . A'

fine gauze cloth made ofungummed silk in a gauze- like weave and used by mill

ers for si fting flour .BOMBAZINE . A black fabric composed ofworsted

weft and s ilk warp,woven in a fine Open twill . Used

largely for mourning hat- bands .

BOMBYX MORI . The genus ofmoths, the caterpillar ofwhich is the silkworm O f China . It is the

main source Of silk . The breed has Spread all ov er

the world . There are three distinct varieties knownto the silk trade

,B . Mori

,B . Fortunatus and B .

Tex tor .

16 A D I C T I O N A R Y ’,

BOOK . As iatic raw Silk is put up in small bundles

called “books .” The Japan book . weighs about four

pounds and contains from fi fty to Sixty skeins . Booksof China and Canton silk are larger and heavier .

BORDER . The outer edge O f a pattern or cloth ;selvage .

BOUCLE . French for buckled . A fabric with sur

face showing lock—Of-h air effect .

BOUILLONNE . Having shirred or gathered effect .

BOURETTE . Showing rough threads appearing inlines

,straight or broken ; produced by lumpy or noil

yarns .

BOURETTE SILK . Short fiber waste silk carded and

BOURRE . Applied to patterns having a padded or

stuffed effect .

B ox - LOOM E FFECTS . Produced on a loom by

which different colors ofweft may be thrown into the

fabric by l i fting or lowering the required shuttle intothe picking plane

,producing different colored cross or

bayadere stripes , al so the cro ss Stripes in p laidsfi

BRIDES . The threads Of warp or weft connect

ing parts Ofthe pattern .

BRILLIANT . Indicating a finish of great luster .May be applied to any fabric .

BRILLIANTE . A sheer piece— dyed fabric woven in

the raw and finished very brill iant . Largely used inmillinery .

BRIN . Thes ingle fi lament Ofthe cocoon .

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with gold and silver threads interwoven . Any fabric

woven in j acquard effect .

BROCATELLE . A heavy,rich brocade differing

from damask in that the woven design or figure issatin in texture relieved by a ground less bright i n

appearance,produced by a

.different weaving of the

threads, such as taffeta or sarcenet ground with satin

brocade figures . (See brocade and damask . )

B ROCHE . The French term for“brocade

, ap

plies particularly to figures swiveled in the weave ; a

loom- embro idered effect ; woven with a figure .

BRODE . E mbro idered .

BROKEN CHECKS . Woven check patterns in whichby weave effect the checks are a trifle irregular as dis

tinguished from the regular cubic"

form Ofthe check .

BROKEN—E NDS . E nds in the warp which have

broken ow ing to weakness or being too heavily ten

sioned , and showing de fect in the cloth when the

breaking has taken p lace during weaving.

BROKEN - PICKS . A defec t .in weaving caused bythe weft breaking as it passes from edge to edge of

the piece .

BROKEN POINTED TWILL . A pointed tw il l in

which the twill ing 1s broken and later on continued .

BROKEN TW ILL . A design or plan in which the

effect is that ofan ordinary twill arranged in a broken“

or non- continuous order .

BROUSSA . A s ia M inor, famous for its Silks , Six

teenth Century


BRUGES . The Netherlands were noted for Brugessi lk and especially satins in the E ighteenth Century .

BRUSHOFF TAFFETA . Trade name for a pure dye

black taffeta .

BULLDOG TAFFETA . A registered trade name for

an exceedingly strong taffeta,claimed to be non - tear

able .

BURLINGHAM . Trade name for a coarse domestic

silk fabric O f O riental character . Sacking.

BURMAH . Registered trade name for a peculiar

homespun weave of Oriental character Ofuneven sur

face and extremely so ft finish .

BUTTONHOLE TWIST . A si lk thread special ly pre

pared for sewing buttonholes and eyelets .

BYSSUS SILK . Al so knownas “ sea silk, Obtained

from a shell fish,the P enna Noblisis

,which secretes

wooly fibers known as Byssus or “beards” resembl ing

silk . Used in Italy and in Normandy for the making

O f ornamental braid articles .

BYZANTIUM . Satins and silks -were famous inearly Byzantium . Called Byzantine effects .

CACHEMIRE (French for Cashmere or Kashmir ) .

A style showing palms and other Persian and Indian

patterns in dark,rich O riental colorings . Akin to

Persian effects . Name derived from Cashmere,India

,

noted for Cashmere shaWIS f

and rich and beauti ful

fabrics made from ha1r O f the native goat .

CACHEMIRE DE SOIE . A silk cloth woven with a

fine twill and having a cashmere- l ike finish .


CALENDERING . A finish - for cloth particularly,

which gives smoothness,luster

,and special effects by

pressure under rollers .

CALFSKIN S ILK . Trade name . An exquisitely

so ft weave, with pattern , warp—printed, in marvelousimitation O f the outer skin O f the cal f

,showing all

the markings in colo r and shadings— brown , fawn, etc . ,shading to pure white

CAMAK,or COMACOA . A - silk and c amel ’ s hair

mixed .

CA—ME LET . A mixed fabric O f woo l , hair and silk

tw‘i ll,sometimes waved or watered .

CAM BRIDGE VELVET . Brand name for a piece—dyed

mottled velvet . Reg.

CANILLE . A jo inted effect, with stripes broken

at interval s by knots or small s quares,resembling

somewhat th e j o ints in cane or bamboo .

CANNELE . Also known as “ repp,

” related to taf

feta weaves,and appearing mainly In the form Of

stripes,in combination with some other patterns .

CANTON CREPE . A fabric made Of fine quality

Canton silk yarn which I s given a crepe twist ; the

fabric 15 of crepe weave and heavier in texture than

crepe de chine .CAPTURES . The lacing threads in skeins .

-of raw

s ilk , particularly in Grant reeled silk .

CARDED S ILK . S ilk worked up from imper fectcocoons into yarns .

CARRE CARREAU . Checkered,squared or block

effects .

S I L K T E R M S

CARTON.The pasteboard boxes in which ribbons

boxed are called cartons .

CASSIMERE TW ILL . The twill .

CELLULOSE .The substance forming the cellular

B engal ine with wide cord effect .

ti ssue o f plants and employed in the production o f

imitation silk .

CHAINE OR CHAIN . A word usually used in the

trade fo r “warp .

CHAIN TW ILL . A twill ed fabric Ofa chain char

acter o r appearance obtained by a combination o f

weave and material .

nv b l i


CHALLIS . A l ightweight, plain - weave fabric o f

silk and woo l,usually printed and sometimes silk or

satin striped .

CHAMELEON . Three—toned o

glacé effect , From

chameleon,a l izard—l ike reptile of constantly changing

color .

CHANGEANT . An effect produced by weaving two

colors together in a plain fabric .

CHAPPE . A term given to silk yarn made from

special wastes O f cocoon and thrown silk .

CHAPPED S ILK . Waste silk degummed by the

process o f fermentation .

CHARDONNET “S ILK . An artificial s ilk so named

a fter the inventor,Count H ilaire de Chardonnet . Pre

pared by nitrating cellulose and dissolving In ether and

alcohol .

CHECK . The term given to the square appearance

produced on a fabric by employing in the weave — two

or more colors O f warp and weft specially arranged to

give a check appearance in the cro ssing of the colors .

CHEN I LLE . A woven fringe, the silk ends hanging

from the binder warp threads . Chenille,French for '

caterpillar .

CHENILLE CLOTH . A fabric with a chenille thread

or effect used as weft with a warp ofcotton or worsted .

CHEVREAU DE SOIE . A piece—dyed silk grosgrain

in which a crepe weft is used . Reg.

CHIFFON . Themerest rag of silk tis sue— the most

fi lmy and so ftest O f s ilk material woven . From chifie,


French,a rag ; fl imsy cloth . Also used to indicate

a light - weight fabric ofso ft chiffon finish, as chiffon”

taffeta,

“chiffon” v elvet .

CH I FFoNE TTE . The fl imsiest and mo st bodiless

o f all the chiffon family .

CHIFFON - TAFFETA . An exceedingly thin , soft

l ightweight taffeta . The same will apply . to all other

weaves with the chiffon prefix .

CH I FFON VELOURS . The lightest and so ftest velours

known,combining somewhat the nature Ofboth weaves

named .

CH I J I M I . A Japanese silk fabric used for draping

purposes .

CHINA . S i lk woven in China as'

early as 1200

B C . Not woven in E urope until 500AD .

- CHINA CREPE . A fine silk gauze woven With a

hard - twisted weft .

CHINA CURLIES . A kind ofwaste made in reel

ing China raw Silk .

CHINA S ILK . The Oldest known form O f silk, de

rived from B ombyx M ori. A term appl ied to the plainwoven silks o f China .

CHINE . A warp—printed effect : designs in mono

or multi—tones printed on the warp .

CH IRIMAN . .A Japanese silk crepe .

CHOP, CHOP TICKET . The brand name by which

different makes o f raw s ilk are identified .

CHOUSE . A large ro sette O f ribbon or tulle .


CHRYSALIS . The last stage in the development o f

the Silkworm from the caterpillar to the moth .

CLASSIQUE . C lass ical patterns Of an approvedor conventional character .

CLOTH OF GOLD TISSUE . Cloths O f gold or

draps d ’or“

velvet and satin became a special class

of splendid stuffs which were plenti fully used in the

Fi fteenth and S ixteenth Centuries ; they superseded to

a great extent.

the brocaded silks of earlier date, al

though the latter fabrics continue in use. Cloths Of

gold have therefo re a very antique origin and the term

may be applied to plain weave silks,brocades and vel

vets,in which gold tinsel or bouillon is intermixed .

’

A

technical difference between the cloths O f gold and

silks broc aded with gold,is that in one the go ld threads

form the ground to the design, whereas in brocades

the ground is o f s ilk,and parts alone of the design

or the entire design are wrought In gold thread .

COCKLED (COCK L I N E SS) . A curl iness or crimp i

ness most marked in fine goods , but always appearingin fabrics when different runs ofyarn or tensions

.

on

sections o f the warp have been accidentally introduced .

COCKLED FABRIC . A de fective fabric,wi th

,an un

even surface appearance , usually due to irregular

shrinkage during finishing. The cause o f such. irregu

larity must, however , be usually looked for much earl ier

on in the cycle o f operations .

COCOON . The covering O f fine threads which the

silkwo rm spins and winds around itsel f , and which

is the material Ofs ilk .



CONDITION ING . The ascertaining or the fixing O fthe amount O f moisture present in textil e material s .Thus to ascertain the true weight O f a bulk lot Of

s ilk,the representative samples must be drawn from

the bales . The samples must then be absolutely dried ,weighed

,and their true or conditioned” weight ob

tained by'

adding to the dry weight the standard “re

gain” moisture . The fixed standard Ofregain for silk

i s 11 per cent .

COQUILLE . Fluted or scalloped , l ike a shell fromwhich the term is deriv ed .

CORA,CORAH . A l ight washable s ilk Of creamy

white from the E ast Indies . An Indian—pattern si lk

handkerchie f .

CORDONNET S ILK . Used for braiding, knittingetc ., consists O f four to eight threads loo sely tw isted

with a left- hand twist to form the primary threads ,three ofwhich are then twisted together with a right

hand tw i st:

CORDUROY. A weft pil e structure in which the

floats O f pile weft are bound into the ground texture

in one continuous l ine warp way, so that upon being

cut they proj ect from this l ine and hence form a dense

pile cord .

COREAN S ILK . Brand name for a piece - dyed dou

pion s ilk Of medium weight,double cocoon fi ll ing .

Reg.

CoRK SCREw WEAVE . A subdiv i s ion of the satin

weave produced by doubl ing yarns of different size

in warp and weft in'

the process Ofweav ing.


COTE DE CHEVAL . Al l ied to the Bedford cord

family ;'

a cloth wherein the interlacing Ofwarp and

welt is so arranged as to produce a broken grosgraineffect in a slightly rounded stripe or weft running

warp way, the stripe alternating with an indentedeffect .

COTELE . A ribbed weave O f rather wide flat effect .

COTTON - B ACK SATIN . A l ining material dyed in

the piece,usually made with raw si lk warp and cotton

weft .

COUNTS . A term employed in the silk trade for

indicating the number O f threads and picks per inch .

COUNTS OF YARN . The number given to a yarn

of any material , usually indicating the number Of

skeins per pound Of that yarn .

COVERT WEAVE . A smart upright warp twill,usu

ally obtained by employing a warp sateen weave , or a

modification O f the same .

CRAMMED STRIPED FABRIC . A fabric ofa striped

character produced by cramming a great number o fthreads into one section Of the stripe

,as compared

with the other section or sections o f the stripe . A spe

cial order of looming and sleying is Obviously neces

sary,particularly when the j acquard is employed .

CRAQUANT . The crunching sound Of silk known

as scroop ;” produced by twisted s ilk . See Scroop .

CRAQUELE . Crackled or broken - glass effect in lace

net or silk .

CREPE . French for crape . A puckered or crinkled

fabric .


CREPE ALGERIAN . Aprinted pongee with a roughcrepy surface . Reg.

CREPE BEATRICE . A crepe fabric with an infini

tes imal warp stripe ; also printed . Reg .

CREPE BERBER . Brand name for piece - dyed pon

gee having a crepy sur face : Reg .

CREPE CHARMEUSE . A si lk Ofrich qual ity,piece

dyed,to which is Imparted a glove— l ike finish which

imparts a dull luster,being Ofso ft drapy quality . Cor

rectly made with warp Ofgrenadine twist si lk and weft

Of crepe twist s ilk in satin weave .

CREPE DE CHINE . An exquisitely so ft and drapyfo rm o f crepe

,plain,

figured or printed .

CREPE DIANA . A brand name for a cotton and

silk crepe . Reg .

CREPE FAILLE SUBLIM E . Brand name for an all

s ilk heavy grosgrain with a very hard twisted silk

fi l ling . Reg .

CREPE LA . A small crepe—l ike effect .

CREPE LISSE . A plain fabric with crepy hand,

extremely diaphanous and very like the lightest moussel ine .

CREPE METEORE . Originally a trade name given

to crepe de chine but now generally applied to a fabricdistinguishable from crepe de chine by its lustrou

satin face and so ft finish .

CREPE N E TTE . An all—star crepe pongee piece—dyed .

CREPOLINE . A fabric Ofa warp - rib character, in

which the regular order of the weave is so broken as

to g1v e a“rib—crepe” effect .


CREPON . A dress fabric o f silk or wool or silk

and—woo l mixture , in which the des ign is produced byy arns having a different degree of stretch

,which give

a twist; crinkled or raised effect to the design .

CRIMP . A term synonymous with crépon , but less

frequently employed .

Ch iné or warp - pr int.

CRINKLED CREPE . A l ight—weight silk fabric with

a satin— face crepe having a crinkled sur face and variously made to show more or less wrinkled or crinkledsur face .

CRINKLED RE P . A ribbed fabric o f s ilk and cotton

in crinkled rep weave . Reg .


CROI SE . A velvet weave in which the threads cross

each other at the back, forming a kind Oftwill . Fromcroise

’

,French for cro ssed .

CROSS- DYED S imilar to resist dyeing. The dye

ing o f a fabric usually composed O f two material s

say s ilk and wool— one Of.these materials,usually the

warp,having been yarn or warp dyed prior to weav

ing, so that there only remains the second material to

be dyed . In resist dyeing all O f the material which is

not to take the dye in the first dip i s brushed over

with wax . The wax may be removed and again ap

plied to parts which are to resist a second dye,and

so on .

CROSS- OVER STYLE . A style O f fabric O f a stripedcharacter

,in which the stripe takes the direction Of

the weft .

CROWS ’ FEET . The wrinkles found in goods after

being folded are known as crows ’ feet .

CRYSTALS,CRYSTALLINES

,ETC . Corded

,usually

WOO-lfilled fabrics,somewhat akin to Bengalines .

CUBIST DESIGNS . I rregular triangles and other

straight s ided figures O f different colo rs massed to

gether in great apparent disorder with perhaps an oc

casional segment ofa circle or an elipse . Colors O ftenrange from full - strength to l ight tints , frequently there

is a great deal o f tan or buff .

CUT . The standard length O f a finished piece of

cloth as it i s cut f rom the loom .

CUT PILE . A pile formed by looping the threads

over wires,which carry at their ends kniv es, so that


as each wire is withdrawn its kni fe severs the pile loop,

thus producing cut p'

ile .

DAMASK . Named from the city of Damascus,

famed in the middle ages for its wonder ful silk fab

rics . A fabric w ith flat figures formed by contrastbetween warp and fil ling surfaces

, i . e.,satin figures

( formed by the fill ing) on satin or twill or taffetasground ( fo rmed by the warp ) .

DAMASSE . With damask effects introduced . Applied to fabrics having a rich heavy woven design ;similar to damask

,which see .

DAMIER . From the French . A check pattern .

E quivalent to Checkerboard .

DEGUMMING . The boil ing—OffO f silk in soap andhot water in order to dissolve and wash away thenatural gum or sericin which surrounds the fiber .

D ENIER . A small silver French coin,value one

twel fth O f a sou and weighing 24 Pari s grains,used as

the standard weight o f silks . According to the UnitedStates S ilk Conditioning Testing Co .

,a denier i s

given as a Skein O f silk 450meters long, weighed by

a unit Of grm . (called denier ) 13 to 15 is written

etc . The standard of the denier varies considerably in different parts O f E urope, the followingbeing some O f the values in use :

Weigh t , Grain s . Length , Meters .

Den ier ( légale) 450

( International ) 500

(Turin ) 476

(M ilan ) 476

(New Lyonese ) 500

32 A . D I C T I O N A R Y

In E ngland and the United States the size is alsoexpressed in terms O f the we ight in drams Of

yards o f the s ilk . This weight may be converted into

the corresponding denier by multiplying it by the fac

tor

DENT . One space in a reed .

DENTAL S ILK . Pure s ilk twisted threads Specially

treated for use for. dental purpos es

DENTELLE. work or lace effects .

Indented ; also'

applied to certain kinds Ofedges .

DEUx TONES . Two tones:

DIAGONAL .

‘ A term ‘

applied'

jgenerally to bold

twills .

DIAPER PATTERN . .A sma ll diamond -Shaped figure

effect .

D ICE PATTERN . A typ e ofpattern cons isting o f

squares Ofvarious dimens ions emphasized in va1 ious

weaves .

DIRECTOIRE . In'

style Of'

the French Directorate,

1793- 18015

DISCHARGE DYEING . B y this process the material

is piece dyed and the color a fterwards removed in cer

tain places by the action Ofchemicals .

DISCHARGE PRINTING . D ischarging or extracting

the colo r with chemicals from a dy ed fabric when

same i s being printed . S imilar to extract printing .

D I SCHARGI NGf Another term.

for degumming silk .

DOUBLE - AND—TWI ST . Threads doubled and then

twisted . Usually applied to the yarn composed o f two


34« A D I C T I O N A R Y

DOUBLE—FACED SATIN . A cloth with two satin

faces made with two systems o f warp so combined that

only one will be vis ible On either side . The color onone side i s generally different from the other .

DOUBLE PLUSH . A plush fabric with a pile onboth sides .

DOUBLING . The twisting together O f two or morethreads

,in order to make a stronger and firmer thread .

DOUP,DOUP WEAVING . A process in weaving

which twists the warp threads around the fi ll ing picks

by means Of special harness loops called “doups .”

DOUPION,DUPION . An irregular rough raw silk

reeled from double cocoons .

DRAM,DRAMMAGE . The one - s ixteenth O f an

ounce . The counts o f thrown, s ilk are des igned in

d rams . The dram system is based on yards tothe dram

,o r 256 yards to the pound for NO . 1 size .

Dividing by any drammage gives its yardage

per pound .

DRAP . Cloth .

DRAP D’ETE . A lli ed to the cashmere in weave but

of heavier texture .

DRAP DE LYONS . A rich,plain French silk made

on Lyons looms .

DRAP D’

OR . Literally meaning C loth OfGold .

”

Also a trade name for a fabric woven in the gum ,Of

class ic Italian (warp ) a nd tussah (fi lling ) , and bo i led

Offto the color Ofpale gold .

DRAP DE SOIE‘

. A somewhat heavy corded“

weave .

Literal ly,si lk cloth .


DRAP—SATIN . A wool material w ith satin - l ike

finish .

DRESDEN . A chiné effect,somewhat in imitation

Of the figures and colorings seen in the famous dec

orated porcelain made in Dresden,Saxony .

DUCHESSE . A fine quality o f satin weave, ofgood

body and high luster,the back woven with flat twill .

DUMB S INGLES . S i lk threads reeled without twist,

which are combined to form tram or thrown silk weft .

DUVE TYN . A fabric having a so ft velvety face .

Not a velvet . Wov en Ofs ilk, schappe, wool or cotton .

The weft being double hard—twist yarn,the crinkles

produced by the hard twist after weaving being teasled

or cut to produce a face not unlike that O f a laid or

flattened pile . Duv et,French for “down .

DYEING . The coloring O f materials in the skeinor piece to enhance the value and appearance . Thereare five methods o f producing color in the fabric : ( 1)Raw material dyeing, (2 ) Yarn dyeing, (3) Cross dyeing

, (4 ) M ixed dyeing, ( 5) P iece dyeing .

DYNAMITED S ILK . S ilk which in process o f

weighting is weighted with ti n salts .

E CART . French for variation in the size Of

Silk,i . e.

,the minimum of unevenness O f the highest

and lowest s iz ing skeins taken in a test .

E COSSAIS GENRE . From e’

cossai-

s,French for

Scotch,and genre— a style offigure and color in tissue

il lustrating every—day l i fe,manners and customs

,the

same as in painting and other arts .


E cRAsE . Showing a crushed,laid or flattened

effect .

E CRU . Raw,unbleached silk in its natural color .

From crudus, Latin for raw .

E GYPTIAN CREPE . Trade name for crinkly crepe .

E LL . The ell,or aune on which the denier - aune

system Of si lk measure was based,measured

E nglish inches .

E M BOSSE DO r RAISED VELVET . Show ing pattern inrelief .

E MBOSSING . Impress ing a pattern on a fabric by

means of engraved cylinders on a two—bowl calender ,producing an

'

embossed design .

E MBROIDERY SI LK s . Twisted threads Of variousthicknesses o f a so fter nature ~ than sewing silk and

which include twist,floss

,filo

,rope and etching silks ,

made in all co lors .

E MPIRE . S tyles Ofwomen ’s dress fashionable during the reign O f Napoleon I , based on the mode o f

dress customary in ancient Greece .

E N CARREAU . A square pattern .

E ND-AND—E ND WARP . A warp made with threads

Oftwo colors alternating.

E NDS . A term applied to the threads in a warp_

also to the we ft .

E OLIENNE . Thi s name is applied to a fabric hav

ing the fill ing of coarser count than the warp andin consequence producing a corded effect across thebreadth Of the goods . Usually made O f a raw s ilk


warp and either cotton or Worsted fi ll ing, w ith thewarp ends per inch greatly in excess o f picks per inch .

Made in the gray and dyed in the piece . The namecomes from the Greek E eolus

, God o f the Winds .

Cote de Chev al. A type Of surface rib or welt ofthe

B edford cord fam ily .

E PINGLE . A r ibbed fabric in vast variety,show

ing moderately large and smaller ribs alternating— in

plain , in figures and in colors i

E PONGE . A French term for sponge cloth , or

fabric O f so ft nubby yarns ; also applied to terry - l ikeweave effects .


ERIA . The si lk derived from the Attacus ricini,

a moth found in Assam and neighboring provinces:

E STRELLA . A plain woven fabric consisting of

s ilk warp and botany yarn we ft,picked 2 right - twist

yarn and 2 le ft- twist yarn . The weft yarn is very

hard tw ist in order to produce the required crimped

appearance .

E TAMINE . A l ight cloth made of wool,s ilk

,

l inen,etc .

,and o f an Openwork structure o riginally

used as a fi lter cloth

E VE NsIDE D . A weav e wherein the arrangement

o f warp - up”

and“filling- up

” i s evenly balanced,such

as an ev ensided twill .

E XTRACT PRINTING . See discharge print ing .

E XTRA. WARP . The termgiven to warp threadswhich are added to a single cloth with the Obj ect of

(a ) Increasing the weight ofthe cloth . (b) . Figuring

the cloth, or ( c ) Both increas ing the weight and figur

ing at one and the same t ime .

E XTRA WEFT. A term given to extra weft threads

or picks with the Obj ect O f : (a ) Increasing the weightO f the cloth . (b) Figuring the cloth , or ( c ) B oth in

creasing the weight and figuring at one and the same

time .

7 7FAQON N E S. French for fancy weaves .

FAGOTING . A cri ssfcross open - work stitch done in

a rope s ilk .

FAILLE . A so ft,drapy weave Of the grosgrain

order,with very fine flat ribs .


FAILLE FRANgAI SE . A faille made on Frenchlooms .

FAILLE MARQUISE . Trade name for a Lyons made

cloth with flat cord and messaline finish .

FAI LLE TI N E . A l ight and extremely so ft weaveO f the faille order .

FAI LLE TI NE MOIRE . A l ight faille in moiré effect .

PAILLETTE . Round—spot patterns on fabrics .

FAILLE VELOURS . A si lk with a crepe faille or

grosgrain weave . Reg.

FANCY TWILL . A twill weave showing various

combinations O f twill weaves forming more o f a pattern th’an the plain diagonal or unbroken twill .

FAST COLOR . A term applied to the color Of ayarn or cloth which wil l withstand light and water .

FELLING MARKS . Marks woven into fabrics at

certain distances,indicating that one piece has been

finished and another piece started .

FESTOON . Loop des igns , sometimes called scal

FEUTRE . Felted,furry . Descriptive of fabrics

having a furry back or face .

FIBER . The name given to the individual con

stituents of a thread . Thus fibril s may be said to

constitute threads,and threads may be said to consti

tute cloths .

FIBROIN . One Ofthe two organic constituents Of

raw silk . A protein substance which may be classed

among the amino acids . The fibroin i s le ft in the silk


after the removal O f the serecin in the process Of

boiling Off.

FIGURED VELVET . Velvet in which the figure or

des ign is obtained through contrast between those por

tions O f the pile which have been cut away,pressed

down,or appear in cut or uncut form on a ground Of

satin,taffeta or other weave .

FILATURES . The factory in which raw silk i s

reeled into skeins from cocoons ; also the machine used

for reel ing from the cocoons .

FILET DE BRUXELLES,BRUSSELS NET . A net ma

terial having a siX— s ided mesh .

f

FILLING E FFECTS . A designation given to weaves

in which the fi ll ing or weft effects predominate .

FINISH ING . The processes through which goods

are put after leav ing the loom,to improve them in ap

pearance and give them the required finish characteristics . Dyeing may be cons idered a finishing Operation ,but it is perhaps better cons idered as a process distinct

from the finishing.

FLEUR DE JEUNESSE . An especial ly l ively si lk on

the order o f Fleur de Soie and properly a member Of

the taffeta family . Finished water— spot proo f . Al so

known as the “S i lk Of'

L ife .

FLEUR DE SOIE (Flower o f s ilk ) . Face Of satin

de Lyons twill,with a backing interlaced in what is

known as the twelve - sha ft satin principle .

FLEUR -DE VELOURS (Flower Ofvelours ) . A fine

and very Superior grade Ofvelours .



practically useless , but now is Spun into very satis

factory yarn .

FLOSS - S ILK . The soft envelope Of the cocoon

made into spun silk embroidery floss double—end twist

threads o f s ilk used for embro idery .

FLOTTI LONS. Test skeins o f raw silk, rleeled 450

or about 500 yards in length , to determine the denier

or s ize o f s ilk . The legal denier is a skein Of this

length,wound in 400 turns on a reel Of112% centi

meters in circum ference (about 44 inches ) , and

weighed by a unit Of five centigrammes (about 7%grains ) , called denier , which see .

FOLI E s B ERGERES . Trade name for a new washable Silk . From the “FOlies Bergeres ,

” a noted amuse

ment resor t in Paris .

FOND . French for the ground or foundation

weave .

FOULARD . A two—and - two—thread weave, forming

a Soft , fine,l

'

avable s ilk,usually printed . Originally

imported from India,now made in other countries .

FOUNDATION WEAVES . There are but three

plain,twill and satin . Al l others are variations Of

these .

FOUR—I N —ON E . Trade name for a closely wovenJapanese fabric, claimed to be spot and perspiration

proo f,and a fast black .

FRISE Ruffled .

FRISONS o r FRI SON N E TS. The irregular and

tangled silk on the outside ofcocoons ; waste obtained

in reeling'

cocoons .


FUTAK o- ORI . A fancy cotton material woven in

France in which a little silk is used for effects .

FUTURI ST DESIGNS . Roughly drawn natural forms

without shading . Colors diluted with white from sharp,

hard colors , bringing them hal f—way between pastel

t ints and ful l - strength colors . Introduced as the styleo f - the future

,hence Futurist . S imilar in principle

to paint ings o f Futurist school .

GALLOONS . Bindings composed Ofsilk and gold or

si lver threads .

GASSING . A process which certain classes Of

yarns,especially certain silk and cotton yarns

,are put

through to take away all superfluous fibers and thus

make a very clean and smooth thread .

GAUFFRE . From gaufrer , to figure cloth or vel

vet ; to honeycomb or waffle . An effect produced bypressure or gauffrage in calendering, by which the sur

face of almost any fabric,but especially the lighter

weaves,can be pressed into forms o f rel ie f . Satins

,

for instance,may be made to imitate moiré . Fluted

and accordion - pleated effects are obtained in l ikemanner .

GAUZE . French, gaze ; a very fine and peculiar

weave Ofthe hunting order . A thin v oile,or veiling .

GEISHA S ILK . Brand name for a domestic habu

tai , piece—dyed . Reg.

GENOESE . Term applying sometimes to velvet a fterthe early Genoese styles

,cut and uncut and interwoven

with gold .


GEORGETTE CREPE . A‘ brand name for a diaphan

ous si lk crepe O f special weave c onstruction in infin i

tesimal or armure effects,a lso striped .

GEORGIAN CREPE . Brand name for an armure

crepe . Reg

GIM P . A“

term usually applied to a twist yarnusually Of a

“

fancy character . One or more colored

threads are twisted around a center core thread,com

p letely hiding i t .

GLACE . A lustrous effect imparted by weavingtwo tones

,and a special finish . From glacial

,having

the sheen of glacier ice .

GLORIA . P lain =weav e of s ilk aiid wool , and s ilkand cotton ; made forumbrella cover ing. The name

is literal,mean ing - bright .

GLOSSING . S tretching and moistening S i lk yarns

to impart luster ; glazing.

GORDON CORD . The name applied to a weave “ o f

a twilled cord character .

GOSSAMER . A s ilk gauze o f cobweb texture so ft

and flexible ; a veiling .

GRAINE .- E ggs O f s ilkworm .

GRAMME . Metrical unit Ofweight .

GRANDE FAgON . E quivalent to the complete

wo rking out or demonstration .

” Also known as the“One Hundred Per Cent . M ethod” o f adjusting the

price to be paid for throwing, on a bas is which determines the “amount o f waste made by the throwster

,for

which he is required to pay at the thrown silk price .


GRANDMOTHER S ILK . Registered trade name for

a fine,pure dye s ilk, in black and colors , O f superior

weave and finish . A renaissance O f the rich and

able Si lk O f the Olden time .

E p ingle o r ép ingaline. A cross p in rib ofwh ich there

are sev eral v ar iet ies .

GRANDRELLE . A type o f twist yarn produced bytwisting together of two threads usually very differently colored .

GRANITE . A sort o f armure Or pebble weave

effect .


GRANITE SOIE .

'

A rich and elegant form O ffaconné ; in color a whitish gray, as seen in the granite

rock .

GRANT REEL . A skein O f raw s ilk so reeled that

the thread forms definite and regular crossings,as dis

tinguished from a skein wherein the thread is reeled in

parallel rows .

GRAY GOODS . Goods Woven with undyed yarn for

dyeing in the piece .

GRECQUE . Greek, applied to patterns or moti fshaving a Greek character .

GREGE . French for raw silk .

GRENADINE . An open—work,gauze - l ike fabric Of

s ilk or wool . E xtremely thin and transparent . The

silk fabric is known as grenadine de soie.

GRISAILLE . A fabric with a gray effect woven

with a warp and fi ll ing contrasting black and white .

GRI VELE. Spe ckled,spotted or m

’

ottled effects .

GRos DE LONDRES . A dress si lk woven in alter

nating coarse and fine ribs,sometimes in ribs Of two

different colors .

GROS’

DE NAPLES . Another Of the numerous gros

family with the cross - ribbed weave O f the demi—gros

grain,but not as smooth or bril liant as taffeta lustre

’

.

GRos DE TOURS . Resembling taffetas , the differ

ence being that,instead o f one

,two or more picks are

inserted in the same shed or Opening Of the warp

threads,forming a fine ribbed sur face . A sublimated

grosgrain .


GROS DES INDES . A dress si lk w ith a wide wale

diagonal weave .

GROSGRAIN . From gros ( coarse or large ) andgrain A ribbed fabric with heavy threadrunning crosswise“ C lassed with the épingles . Gros

de Londres,Gros de Naples , Gros de Columbia, Gros

de Paris,and all the other numerous “

Gros” are Of

the same general character .

GROUND . The plain part Ofa web.

HABUTAI . A So ft, washable Japanese s ilk Ofplain

weave o f smooth and even texture . Originally and

stil l largely made in Japan , and now also in the United

States .

HABUTAI DE SUISSE . Trade name for a pure dye

spotp roofs ilk Ofthe Habutai order, finished with l ittle

luster .

- HAIRLINE . A term indiscriminately applied to fine

colored striped fabrics . . S trictly speaking these stripesshould be formed on the true hairline pr inc iple

,which

is,that for the stripe in the warp direction each color o f

warp must be covered by its own Color Of,

weft , and

for the weft direction that each color o f weft Should

be covered by its own color warp .

HAMMERED S ILK: A recently produced novelty,showing effect as O f hammered metal— copper , brass

or other imparted in the weave by use O f the j ac

quard . Trade name for a neckwear fabric .

HAND . The handle Ofgoods or its touch to the

sense O f feeling .


HARD S ILK . Raw s ilk t hrown or unthrown in thetingummed state .

HARLEQUIN CHECKS . A plaid effect in three ormore distinct colors . Af_ter .

the parti - colored dres s o fa buffoon

,or harlequin .

HARD TWI ST . A yarn which contains more thanthe usual number o f turns per inch, and is consequently

employed only in special cases such as for hard twistfabrics l ike crepe de chine and grenadine .

HARNESS . A collection Ofheddles,cords or wire

,

having openings or eyes in their centers,through which

the warp threads pass in the loom .

HATTER’S PLUSH . A~ silk plush from which men ’ s

full - dress hats are made .

HEATHER S ILK . Trade name for a rough -finished ,

pure dye fabric o f exquiSI te S Oftness , seen in a greatvariety o f artistic color effects

,resulting from the

union Oftwo contrasting colors or Shades in both warpand weft . An imitation in silk Of the heather effects

seen in Scotch woolens .

HENRIETTA CLOTH . A twilled cashmere Of l ightweight and high finish

, originally made o f s ilk warp

and wool fi ll ing in Yorkshire, E ngland . The name was

given in honor o f Henrietta Maria,O f E ngland , Q ueen

o f Charles I . The silk warp , hand - woven fabric was

produced about the year 1660.

HERRING - BONE . A striped des ign,in which , by

means o f special drafting or a special weave , a cer

tain number O f threads are twilled first to the right

and then to the'

left,thus Opposing each other and

giving the appearance Ofa herringbone .



two sheds only,being produced by two threads of

warp and two o f weft '

working together .

ILLUSION . A th in and very transparent tulle .

I M B E RL I N E STRIPE . A fabric having the appear

ance o f combining two or more separate fabrics in

long strips,four or s ix to the width

,sometimes O f di f

ferent patterns , as well as being different in"

coloringsand of a damask character . These appear to be j o ined

together by a striae gold stripe which has the appear

ance O f a separate s ilk galloon . The fabric,however

,

i s woven entirely in one piece .

IMPERIAL OTTOMAN . A rather heavy rib piece

dyed fabric o f the bengaline character having a so ftfi ll ing.

IMPRIME . .French for printed .

IMPRIME RADIEUSE . A brightly- lustered article,

surface - printed . A trade name .

I NCRoYAB LE . A style of costume modeled upon

the dress ofa dandy in the period ofthe French D i

rectorate .

INDIA S ILK . A name app l ied to the plain woven

Silks manufactured in India on the primitive hand

looms . The warp and weft are woven ev enly and

produce a beauti ful natural luster . It is Similar to

China and Japan,India s ilk being almost a myth

,so

l ittle O f it is exported .

INLAYING . Same as brocading.

IRIDESCENT . .Rainbow and Shot colo r effects , show

ing prismatic hues and a play Of color .


JACQUARD E FFECTS . ‘ Figures produced by themechanism invented by Jean Marie Jacquard , a French

genius o f the time Of the first Napoleon .

JAPANESE S ILK . P lain woven silks manufactured

in Japan .

JARD INIERE . French for flower pot . Garden

effect in which many colors are employed to form pat

terns ofbuds , fruits , flowers , fol iage, etc .

JASPER . Black warp with white fi ll ing,or white

warp with black fi ll ing,forming a gray . Commercially

known as j asper or pepper and salt mixture .

JERSEY CLOTH . A knitted s ilk fabric,also called

M i lanese and tricot cloths ; made from raw s ilk and

dyed in the piece . Now extensively used for women ’ s

undergarments,s ilk gloves and various dress acces

sories .

JOSEPH ’S COAT . A warp in stripes o f different

warp usually made for the sample loom for weaving

samples in various colors . Same as sample blanket .

JOUY. In the late E ighteenth Century the fashion

for I ndiennes,printed cotton fabrics imported into

France from India,had become so popular that at

tempts were made in France to produce the same ef

feets . Factori es were establ ished in several cities,but

the man who first attained any degree Ofprominence

was Ch ristopher Phil ip Oberkampf , a German , who

establ ished a factory at Jouy,near Versailles. He

achieved such success that the name Jouy has been

definitely associated with finely prin ted fabrics follow

ing the types he developed ever since that t ime . The


manufacture ofJouy prints developed to such an ex

tent th-at they seriously threatened the silk industries ,and a Royal edict was issued prohibiting their manufacture and sale . Th is was prior to 1759

,and while

much material was ma de surreptitiously, it was subse

quent to this d ate that the manufa cture attained its

greatest proportions . Thirty years lat er there wereover a hundred factories engaged in making Jouy

prints . The designs were characterized by class icmoti fs beaut i fully engraved and finely colored . They

were made with White backgrounds and also with the

moti fs brought out conspicuously against"an allover

background ofa'

very“

intricate character .

KA- NE - KO STRIPES . Brand name for a striped

warp fabr ic shot with coarse rough Silk . Reg.

KENSINGTON . Brand name for a printed tussah

pongee . Reg .

KHAIKI .‘

A - Japanese s ilk Ofplain weave but Of

not 80' fine a texture as habutai .

KHAKI .'

An earth color . This word is derived

from the H industani word for “earth .

”

KHEDIVE . Trade name for a fabric OfOriental

character .K IB I SSO. Japanese name for certain ofthe wastes

made in the reel ing Ofraw silk .

KIKAI . A name given by Japanese to waste made

in reeling raw silk .

KILOGRAM . A metric weight‘

of grams , esti

mated to be equal to pounds .

KIN . A Japanese weight equivalent to


pounds,which is commercially reckoned as

pounds,so that 756 kin weigh pounds . The

quotations on Japanese raw Si lk are‘made in yen per

kin .

Mo iré.

KIOTA . A piece—dyed fabric,l ight weight fris

sons ; coarse rough silk fi ll ing . Reg .

KISMET CLOTH . A trade name for a s ilk fabric

Of peculiar ratiné weave, also Woven with matelassé

effect .KNUBS . Waste s ilk produced during the Operation

Ofwinding Off from the cocoon . Al so little knob— l ike

flecks on raw and So ft Silk are SO—called .


LAMPAS . Kindred to brocatelle ; belongs to the

class o f damask satins . The g round o f lampas , however, i s different in colo r from that O f its figuring .

3)LANCE . French for “thrown Showing tiny dots

or specks ; also fine pin point or pettits pois effects , as

i f the figures were thrown on the ground .

LANSDOWNE . A mixed fabric in fine twill,with

s ilk face and worsted back .

LA VOGUE . A moiré effect formed by fine satin

l ines on a bengaline ground . A trade name .

LE JUNGLE . Trade name for a heavy,coarse

weave showing glimpses o f yarn o f contrasting colors ,with Oriental suggestions .

LEVANTINE . A kind O f silk cloth ; cotton imported

from Smyrna .

LIBERTY . A name first applied by L iberty CO. ,

o f London and Paris , converters— by printing, dyeing

and finishing— Of various silk goods direct from ' the

loom,to a wide range of fabrics handled by them .

Later,in this country

,the name was adopted by the

Liberty S ilk CO .,and applied

,under trade - mark

,to a

variety Of their exclusive productions — as L iberty

satin,L iberty crepe

,L iberty taffetas , L iberty peau de

Soie,L ibe rty bril l iant and other , namely o r exclusively

piece - dyed fabrics . Name now generally applied to

a wide range Ofhigh luster light—weight satins .

LIGNE . The French line,which is one- twel fth O f

a French inch,i s . the world ’ s standard for measuring

the width o f ribbon,tape and other narrow fabrics .


There are approximately eleven French lignes to theE nglish inch .

LISSE. From lissorn— supple,flexible . A sort Of

chiffon o f the gauze order with crepe twist . Muchused for ruchings and kindred purposes .

LOADING . A method O f adding either weight toyarn or cloth by loading with various substances .

Low PILE . See high pile .

LOUIS QUARTORZE . See Louis X IV .

LOUIS QUINZE . See Louis X IV and X V .

LOUI S X IV , LOUIS X V ,REGENCE

,DIRECTOIRE

,

E MPIRE,ETC . Terms employed to designate the styles

that prevailed in certain periods o f the political historv

ofFrance,by attaching the name ofthe ruler or form

Ofgovernment then existing .

LOUISINE . A fine- grained,l ight - weight

,so ft

finished s ilk o f infinitesimal basket weave ( invis ible tothe eye ) .

LOUISINE E MPIRE . Trade name for a superior

quality O f above weave .

LOUSINESS , LOUSY S ILK . The flossiness in dyed

silk yarns,known as duvet, v rillie, fine ends

,double

ends,slugs, nibs , knots , imper fectly cemented fila

ments,etc .

,which may exist in the cocoon fi lament

or be caused by faulty reeling, bad throwing, badsoaps and Oils and rough handling

,and boi l ing Off in

the dyeing process .

LUNETTE . Registered trade- mark for a fine sheer

crepe .

56 A'

D I C T I O N A R Y

LUSTRE . Having a special brill iant appearance .

LUSTREAUX . Brand name for a piece—dyed silkfabric having a pile face . Reg .

LUSTRINE,LUTESTRING . A sturdy bri ll iant s ilk

fabr ic on the order o f taffeta lustré .

LUTESTRING . A kind o f silken fabric made earlyin the E ighteenth Century . Striped lutestring.

LUXOR .

'

A weave o f the satin family,with a high

finish , but less lustrous than a satin duchesse . A

sumptuous fabric,de lur e

,o f a reversible order

both s ides alike .

MAKING - UP . A process which finished goods are

put through,such as folding

,ticketing, papering, etc .

,

in preparation for the market ; different markets re

quire goods to be made up in special ways .

MALINE . A fine silk net o f gauze—l ike texture .

Practically the same as tulle .

'

MANDARIN CREPE . A trade name for a s ilk Of

crepe weave Of peculiar construction .

MARABOUT S ILK . Used for crepe, consists oftwo

or three threads united without prel iminary twisting

and dyed without scouring and strongly twisted to

gether,so as to yield a stiff thread .

MARAMATO. A gold brocade OfArabian origin .

MARCELLINE . A light,thin

,diaphanous fabric

used largely for millinery and other l inings .

MARQUISETTE . A sheer,plain—weave fabric ofs ilk,

having a -mesh ‘more Open than that o f voi le and not

quite so large as grenadine .



ME RVE I LLEUx . A m ember of the satin familyshowing

.

a l ight,lustrous twill . From mervaille,

marvel .

MESSALINE . A finish . May be imparted to anyweave

,rendering it exquis itely so ft and supple . Orig

inally a fine , so ft imperial satin Ofpeculiar texture firstmade in Lyons

,with organzine fi ll ing , From M essa

l ina,third wi fe Of E mperor Claudius

,the most in

famous woman in Roman history .

METER . The standard linear measure ofthe Met

ric System,equals E nglish inches .

METRIC COUNT . The numbering applied to vari

ous yarns where such number is based upon the Metr ic

System .

MEXIXE . A registered trade name for s ilks carry

ing des igns suggested by the Aztecs— the original in

habitants Of Mexico . The M exixe” designs are

unique and vivid in colorings .

M I CU I T . A s ilk which contains when dyed about

hal f Of its original gum .

M IKADO TAFFE TAL I NE . Trade name for a peculiar

weave o f l ight taffeta .

M ILANAISE . A corded material,the cords O f

which are covered with certain warped threads by

means o f a doup harness . See Doup .

M ILANESE S ILK . A knitted Silk fabric, made from

raw s ilk and piece dyed , a light j ersey cloth .

M I LLERAYS.

’ A Si lk fabric having a small r ibbed

effect similar to grosgrain , but in which the rib runs

lengthwise the fabric .


M IROIR,M IROITE . M irror or looking- glass effects .

M IROIR DU NORD . Same as foregoing,with sug

gestions o f the North— a glacial effect .

M IROIR VELVET . A velvet fabric with the pileironed or pressed down .

M IRROR . A square of flat aluminum painted

block or thin board covered with black velvet on to

which a thread o f silk is reeled in close parallel lines .Used to reveal unevenness and cleanness o f s ilk yarns .E ach square thus wound is called a mirror .

M ISE- E N —CARTE . A pattern as it is laid out onthe square paper used by designers as a guide for cutting j acquard cards .

M ISPI CK . A defect le ft in the cloth by a fi ll ing

thread that misses binding or interlacing in its regular

order with the warp, leaving an imperfection in the

woven material .

MOGUE PONGEE, MOGUL PONGEE . Brand name

for unusually rough shantung pongees . Reg.

MOIRE . A watered effect produced by use O f engraved rollers and high pressure on material o f rib

weave .

MOIRE ANTIQUE . A fabric watered in des ign to

imitate antique effects .

MOIRE A POIS . A watered effect with small satin

dots sprinkled over the surface .

MOIRE ARETOUR .

‘

A material with a special weave

for watering,one—hal f O f its width being figured and

on b eing folded“

and pressed,reproduces an imprint


on the plain s ide , the watered design then being alikeon each hal f.

MOIRE BENGAL . Trade name for a line ofgoodsnot differing particularly from many other watered

stuffs .

MOIRE BENGAL SOLIDE . Same as abov e . A tradename .

MOIRE DIAMENT .- Same as above .

MOIRE FRANgAI SE . A moiré effect in stripes , p roduced by use ofengraved rollers .

MOIRE IMPERIAL . Show ing an indefinite watered

effect covering‘

the entire surface .

MOIRE ME TALLI QUE . Presenting a w a t e -r

’

e'

d ,

clouded and frosted appearance . A metallic effect .

MOIRE M IROIR . A”

designation for two corded

fabrics woven as ‘

One,bound

-

together only by occa

SIOnal threads ; afterwards moiréd and separated re

su lting in a so ft, velvety watered face .

MOIRE Mother - Of-

p earl effect , showing

the del icate pinkish flush and del icate tints seen in the

interior ofsea shells ; produced by two or more Shades

in a shot S i lk and moiréd .

MOIRE OCEAN . Watered in a design ofwavy, un

dulating stripes .

MOIRE POPLIN . A wool -filled corded fabric withwatered effect .

MOIRE RENAISSANCE ; A fabric watered in Renais

sance design .

MOIRE SCINTILLANT . A Scintillat ing or lustrous ,

NewBedford Textile lnsiliO F S I L K T E R M S NewBl Ol

'

ti, ififi.

watered effect . In satin , a moiré material in whichthe tram threads are woven to produce a peculiarly

bright effect .

MOIRE SOLEIL . A brilliant s ilk fabric with an indist inct moiré effect as sometimes seen in moire

louisine .

MOIRE SUPREME . A rich satin weave,watered .

MOIRE TYROLIEN . A . trade name Of no special

s ignificance .

MOIRE VELOURS . A moiré fabric in velvety effect

imparted in the calendering. See Velours .

MOIRETTE . An imitatiOn'

ofmoiré, wov en O f cot

ton Or other yarns , and dressed:.With a watered appearance

MOLINE . A s ilk taffeta made W ith' heavy spun

silk warp and tram fi l l ing .

MOMMIE . A Japanese weight equivalent to

gra ins 120 mommies; equal one pound .

MON E YBAK . Registered trade name for a depend

able grade Of taffetas .

MONK ’S CLOTH . Brand“

name for a spun rough

tussah silk woven in basket weave . Reg .

MONOTONE . One tone or color .

MORESQUE . Patterns or effects on the Moorish

order .MOTIF . The unit of a des ign which is repeated

over and over again in a paftern .

MOUSSELINE DE SOIE . An extremely light—weight

silk . fabric . Anglice,s ilk muslin.


MULL . A thin. plain woven fabric O f fine so fttexture with cottonWarp and silk fill ing used for dress

purpo ses .

MUMMY CLOTH . A cloth the rough or hopsack

weave O f which is not unlike the appearance Ofclothsused for wrapping E gyptian mummies .

MYSORE S ILK . A printed tussah pongee . Reg.

NACRE . French for pearly . A delicate pearl - shell

effect . Name O f Oriental origin, from nakir— hol

lowed ; a pearly substance which lines the inner side

o f many shells,most especially mother - Of- pearl .

NANKIN . Silk used’

in the blonde laces made at

Bayeux,Caen and Ch antilly early in the E ighteenth

Century was made at Naukin , China , hence sometimes

called Nankin lace .

NAP . The sur face O f a fabric raised in the finish

ing Operations to give it a napped effect .

NAP WARP . P i l e warp .

NARROW FABRICS . General des ignation for rib

bons,tapes

,webbing

,bands and l ike materials .

NATTE . Tressed or basket weave . A name given

to a fabr ic constructed in loose check design in one or

more colors,in a manner to give the cloth a braided

appearance .

NET . Any fabric formed by twisting orweaving

threads together so as to form Open mesh .

NET,FILET . Materials OfOpen mesh weave used

for vei ling,etc .

“NET” S ILK . S i lk yarns produced from the

O F S I L K T E R M S

cocoons by winding or throwing the s ingle fibers as

threads,as distinct from spun silk Obtained by tear

ing the material into a fibrous mass and preparing and

spinning as in the case o f wool .

NID D ’

AB E I LLE . Beehive effect .

NOCTURNE SATIN . A term used to designate a

satin with a repoussé surface l ike that Of hammered

brass .

NOIL . The waste Of the combing machine ,knobbed yarn .

NON —SPOTTABLE PONGEE . A yarn—dried fabric

finished so ft and proo fed a'

gainst spotting o f water .

NOSH I ITO. A kind o f waste made in reel ing raw

NOUVEAU . French for new ,nov el .

NUANCE . A shade“

or tint .“

NUNS ’ VEILING . A sheer veiling made either Of.worsted or all s ilk .

OATMEAL E FFECT A style Ofmixed interlacmgwhich gives a m ixed crepe” appearance to the fabric

,

or an appearance something like oatmeal .

OB I J I . A Japanese fabric made for Japanese

sashes .

OMBRE . A shaded color effect,produced in the

warp by warping in different tones, thus shading from

light to dark . Anywhere from twelve to thirty tones

may be warped in to obtain the des ired effect . Rain

bow shadings,also Obtained by a patent printing

process .


OMBRE MOIRE RENAISSANCE . A watered fabric

showing three tones o f color in broad stripes , shaded ,combining ombré and mo ire effects

,with Renaissant

design suggestion .

OMBRE RAYE . An"effect formed by alternating

ombré stripes with stripes o f the foundation color .

ONDINE . A thick cord bengaline,with eve ry th ird

cord crinkled .

ONDULE . From the French ondulé,undulate .

Anglice , a wavy effect .“ON E HUNDRED PER CENT . THROWING METHOD .

See Grande Facon .

ORGANDY . A th in,l ight

,transparent musl in . May

be O f s ilk or cotton .

ORGANZINE . The s ilk fiber doubled and twisted,

as thrown ” into yarn for warp threads .

OTTOMAN . A fabric with wider,

“

coarsen rib thanfaille

,but belonging to the faille family . May be all

s ilk,all wool

,or a mixture of both

,or a mixture Of

s ilk and cotton .

OTTOMAN CORD . A fabric in which the thick Otto

man—l ike r ibs or cords run lengthw ise the fabric and in

contra—distinction to the crosswise from selvage—to

selvage ribs ofOttoman .

OURVRE . Worked , embroidered or stitched effects .

OVERCHECK . A check introduced over and above

a ground or more subdued check .

OVERSPUN . A thread or yarn that is uneven owing

to its having been Spun or thrown to too high a count



and galloons , especial ly those made of rich gimps,

braids , beads , s ilks and t insel .

PASTEL . Applied to tones Ofany co lo r when ex

cep tionally pale .

PASTILLE . A round or oval spot .

PATTERN ._ A specimen or sample O f a particular

style of fabric .

PEAU . French for skin, hide, pelt .

PEAU DE CHAMOIS . A s ilk armure having a very

so ft finish .

PEAU DE CREPE . Copyrighted trade name for an

exquis itely soft, crepy material, kid - l ike to the touch,

and O f superior wearing and draping qualities .

PEAU DE CYGNE . Skin o f swan . One of the

numerous varieties of the peau family .

’

Of a so ft

texture and finish,and a “hand suggestive of the

feel Ofthe plumage ofa swan— French , cygne.

PEAU DE PECHE . Literal ly peach skin, havmgthe so ft handle l ike the skin ofa peach .

PEAU DE SOIE .

.

An eight—sha ft satin with one

point added , on the right or le ft, to original satin spots ,imparting to the fabric a somewhat grainy appearance .

L iterally,skin Ofs ilk .

PEAU DE SOURIS . Mouse skin, a so ft finished silknot

.

unlike d uvetyn .

PEAU DE SUEDE . A s ilk of so ft supple finish so

named because ofhaving in the handle the feel effect

of leather’

finished'

i

on the wrong or flesh s ide giving

an undressed surface .


PEE—WEE E FFECTS . Tiny w eave effects usuallyseen in thin - crepes .

PELUCHE . Shaggy, rough , plush—l ike .

PEKINS . Fabrics in which the stripes,particularly

Ofsatin,run in the direction O f the warp .

PERCE .

'

Usually applied to per forated or eyeletted

fabrics ; a sort o f Openwork effect .

PERSIAN . A thin silk fabric,formerly much used

for linings .

PERSIAN E FFECTS . Also called Oriental and cash

mere . Showing the pecul iar des igns and color tonescommon to cashmere shawls and other Indian and

Thibetan textile productions .

PETITS POIS . Tiny dots or specks . French for

small peas .

PICK . A Single strand O f weft reaching once across

the.p iece. This term is also used to express the action Ofthrowing or picking a shuttle in a loom .

PI CK AND PI CK . This implies the throwing of

s ingle picks ofdifferent colors into a fabric.

PI CK GLASS . A magni fying glass used for count

ing the threads and picks per inch or one—quarter- inchin cloths . Al so used for examining warp and weft

threads when d issecting cloth .

PI CKING. Putting in the fi ll ing threads in weaving .

P'ICKING . The process ofcleaning warps by hand

of_

knots,nibs

,etc .

, and of removing from woven

fabrics by hand or by machine , yarn or weav e blem

ishes .

68 A D I CT I O N A R Y

PI COT . French for splinter . Applied to an edge,

as seen in certain ribbons , looped out to form a finish

on one or both s ides- picot edge .

PICUL . A Chinese weight used in the silk trade

equivalent to 133V3 pounds .

PIECE . A length Of cloth woven from various

warp lengths . As a rule the warp length is fixed,and

under varying conditions will yield varying lengths

O f fabrics .

PIECE DYED . S ilk dyed in the piece —after it is

woven . . P iece dyes are usually woven in the raw or

gum Si lk state,the gum is afterwards boiled Off and

the cloth then dyed in the piece .

PIERCED COCOONS . Cocoons punctured by the

moths emerging after maturing .

PILE . A nap O f fiber on the sur face O f the fab

PILE FABRIC . A fabric in which either special

threads or picks are caused to stand _up from the sur

face . I f left looped the fabric is spoken Ofas uncut

velvet or terry . I f cut the fabric is spoken Of as

cut .”

PILE WARP . The warp which is looped up in

making the sur face O f plush - woven fabrics

PILE WEFT . The weft which is woven into vel ~

v eteens and similar fabrics for the purpose of being

cut to form a sur face pile .

PI N CHECK . M inute squares or dots on the orderO f crossing hairl ines .


PI NHEAD CHECKS . Checks O f infinites imal size .

PIQUE . See Marseilles .

PIQUES . The Silk derived from imperfect cocoonsis SO called .

PLAID . A checked pattern .

PLAIN WEAVE . The s implest form O f a woventexture in which each thread O f weft passes alternatelyover and under each thread Ofwarp .

PLAITED YARN . A thread forming a core around

which a thread o f different material is twisted as a

cotton thread wound with si lk or tinsel .

PLISSE. French for pleated . A pleated effect that

may b e appl ied to almost any material,including vel

vets . May be done by machinery, or, in case O f ribbons

,

’

by use o f draw strings . From French plisser,to plait

,to crimple

,to fold

,etc;

PLISSE OMBRE . An armure weave in plissé effect

and ombré shading .

PLUSH . A cut- pile fabric Ofs ilk, mohair, cotton ,flax or wool woven with a deeper pile than that o f

velvet . P eluehe,the origin o f the name , is French

for shaggy .

POIL OR S I NGLE S ILK . Used for gold and s ilver

tinsel,i s a raw silk thread consisting O f eight to ten

cocoon threads twisted together .

POINTED TWILL . Twill weaves in which the twill

points in the direction O f the fill ing and also o f the

warp .

POINTILLE . Dotted .


POLKA DOTS . Tiny dots usual in printed silks,

especially foulards .

POLO DOTS . Large dots printed in white or coloron white or sol id color grounds . Also called coin dots .

POMPADOUR . From Madam Pompadour,mistress

o f Louis X V , who created an epoch in fashion during

a portion O f the past c entury . Pompadour effects asseen in s ilks and ribbons are largely floral in char

acter,and are expressed in rich

,so ft colorings

,Some

what Of the pastel order Sometimes applied to a

peculiar crimson or pink shade

POMPADOUR GROS DE TOUR . A high—class gros

grain,w ith fine ribbed surface and in Pompadour

effect .POMPEIAN VELVET. A velvet made Ofyarn - dyed

organzine . Registered brand name .

PONGEE. A plain s ilk woven in "the gum, usually

of s ingles ,”

which may be used in the raw s ilk form

or boiled '

off, and may be piece - dyed or printed . NameO f E ast Indian or igin, and originally applied to a fab

r ic ofundyed s ilk from India or China .

PONGEE IM PERIAL . A heavy pongee s ilk woven

with . a taffeta sur face .

POPELINE . A rep wool - and - s ilk material,the

warp ofs ilk .

P OPE LI NETTE . An extremely light—weight poplin

weave between a grenadine and taffetas

POPLIN .- From the French popeline, luster . A

fabric O f many v ariet ies , usually O f si lk and worsted .

I rish poplin is made Of silk warp _and worsted weft .


POST - IMPRESSIONIST D ESIGNS . Natural formssimplified to give only impress ion ofsalient characteristics, not detail . Like Post- Impressionist paintings , adegree more indefinite than Impressionist work .

POULT DE SOIE . A peculiarly strong and durablesilk o f the grosgrain family .

PRINTING. Impress ing a pattern on warp or fabric by machine or block .

PROOFING . A process through which certain silk

goods pass , whereby they are rendered imperv ious tospotting by water and are variously termed “

showerproo f” and “spot- proo f .”

PUNJAB S ILKS . Domestic imitations of Indianfabrics . Seen in checks , fancies , shot and changeable

effects,or w ith figures imparted by box loom Or j ac

quard work .

PUNJAPORE . A s ilk of rough weave . A trade

name .PURE DYE . An unweighted dyed silk .

PURL . A l ittle loop or pearl picot which edgesthe ribbon .

PUSSY WILLOW TAFFETA . A trade name for as ilk O f original construction

,so ft and drapy, named

after the pussywillow .

QUADRILLE . Applied usually to small checks insquares . The Shepherd checks

“may be classed gen

erally as among the quadrillés .

QUEEN S ILK . A very so ft fabric of the chifi’onorder

,both yarn and piece—dyed , in w idths from

twenty- one to thirty- six inches .


RACSAGADA Trade name for one o f the rough

sur faced,loose—woven s ilks .

RADIA . A forty - four - inch silk,Lyons made ; so ft

and sheer,in plain weaves , with high luster"I s seen

in .all colors , both plain and imprimé .

RADIUM . Trade name for a light—weight,supple

s i lk for l ining or dress purposes .

RAINBOW SHAD INGS . Same as ombré,which see .

RAJAH . Trade name for a special production . A

cloth o f very firm texture,wide

,rough and compact ,

piece - dyed in all colors . The rough material is intro

duced in the fi ll ing .

'

RATI NE . A material o f silk,schappe

,wool or '

cot

ton woven in crinkled or curled yarn having small

loops l ike terry,the weave being rather Open .

RAW S ILK . A term applied to the fiber produced

by the si lkworm in the form Ofcocoons,and the term

also applies to the thread produced by reel ing a given

number O f cocoons together,thus each thread being

composed ofa number O f fi laments .

RAYE . French for striped .

RAYURE . French for stripe .

REED . An attachment Ofthe loom lathe made Of

fine flat wires or reeds between which the warp threads

are carried and kept'

uniformly separated:

REED MARKS . Marks of l ines running up the

warp way o f the'

CIOth,usually . due to insufficient or

too many warp threads being arranged in a dent ; also

due to an injury to the reed , or to faulty setting Of

the loom .



REVERSE SATIN . A satin with the weft p redominating in a satin - l ike effect ; also applied to a fabricw ith a face weave O f a different chain than the back

o f the cloth, which shows a satin effect such as armure

sat-inée.

REVERSIBLE . See Renverse .

RHADAM E . S ilk fabric O f rather heavy quality of

twelve - sha ft construction showing an indefinite tw il l

weave .

RHADZI M E R. A sort O f tw ill .

RHADZI M E R SURAH . A surah w ith amodified rib

or“

tw i ll across the surface .

RIBBON . A narrow web O f silk, cotton , or any

RI B WEAVE . A weave in which,either owing to

the interlacing or to the yarns used , warp or weft isthe stronger and remains comparatively straight

,while

the weaker material does all the bending. Thus in

warp ribs the weft i s the stronger, caus ing the warpto bend and form a warp sur face rib running from

selv age to selvage Ofthe goods , while in weft ribs the

warp is Stronger, forming a we ft sur face rib running

lengthw ise up the goods .

ROLLER PRINTING . The,

process Of printing by

mach inery from engraved rollers .

ROMAN STRIPE . A series O f bright contrasting

colo r stripes Ofthe same or varying w idths .

ROYALE . Amodification ofGros de Tours (whichsee ) ; the r ib line, which in the latter is extended


straight across the cloth,being broken Offat intervals

,

after a given number Ofwarp-

threads .

SAMM E T OR SAMITE .

‘ In the M iddle Ages Arabiawas renowned for the beauty O f its s ilk fabrics andespecially for sammet

,a richly embroidered material

widely employed for church embroideries and rObeSOfstate .

SAMPLE BLANKET . Material woven in different

colors Ofwarp and weft and used as samples .

SARCENET . A thin sheer silk of so ft finish o fthe veiling character used as lining inmil l inery . . The

name is derived from the Arab Saracens by whom itwas worn in their headdress . The earl iest figuredsilks known and produced in E urope were thin

,re

sembling sarcenet and taffeta .

SATIN . A Silk cloth Of close texture and overshot warp, with rich , glo ssy sur face . Thus : C loths

o f gold and satins rich Of — Chaueer .

SATIN A LA REINE . Another o f the family of

irregular satins Of fine structure made on six“

shafts

straight draw .

SATIN ATHENA . Brand name for an al l- si lk piece

dyed satin . Reg.

SATIN CHARMEUSE . P iece- dyed satin made .with

a warp O f hard twist organzine ; weft is usually o f

Spun silk .

SATIN CREPE . A satin - faced material made with

organzine warp and crepe twist fi lling .

SATIN DE BRUGES . An upholstery fabric O f s ilk

warp and wool weft,showing a satin face .


SATIN DE CHINE . An extremely so ft and drapysatin w ith crepe - l ike finish .

SATIN DE’

LAINE . Wool satin .

SATIN DE LYONs . A satin with a tw il l—back showing twil l l ines in the satin face— or thin or sheer satin

oftw i l l and satin construction also called “Flower o f

s ilk” — fleur de soie.

SATI N DIRECTOIRE . A trade term for a so ft,r ich

satin made Ofhigh - grade s i lk .

SATIN DUCHESSE . See Duchesse .

SATIN E MPRESS . Brand name for a Liberty satin .

Reg.

SATIN FAQONNE . A j acquard -figured materialwith a Satin ground , usually Of fancy des ign .

SATIN FEUTRE . A satin cloth woven w ith a single

strand Spun Silk yarn which has been rendered fluffy

byr teasling in order to give the back

~

of the material

a furry effect . See Feutre .

SATIN GREC . A twelve - harness satin in which'

a

taffeta point is added at each place Of interlacing, with

effect O f making the cloth much fi rmer .

SATIN IMPERIAL . A printed all—s ilk satin . Regis

tered brand name .

SATIN LUXOR . This may be a heavy twelve- shaft

satin or double— face peau de soie of- subdued luster .

A brand name for a wool—filled satin . Reg.

SATIN. MARVE I LLE UX . A light brilliant twill satin

shot in color contrasting with the warp .

SATI N PANNE . An unweighted piece- dyed heavy


SATIN SERGE . A satin twill .

SATIN SERRANO . Piece - dyed satin Ofl ight we ight .

SATIN SOLEIL . A fabric o f satin - l ike“

sur face witha cross - l ine appearance and a

- pronounced sheen .

SATIN TAFFETA . A satin - faced fabric rev ersmg

taffeta .

SATIN TURC .

'

One Of the family O f irregular

satins made on the four - shaft straight through draw .

SAVONA VELVET ; Brand ‘

nameuforxa' Jasper v elvet

dyed in the skein . Reg .

SCARF . A l ight kind O f shawl ; a broad ribbon“

;

necktie .

SCHAPPE .. A term referring to the yarn spun

from silk waste which has not been fully discharged

or degummed .

SCINTILLANT . French for scintillat ing, sparkling .

A changeable effect .

SCROOP . The rustle or crunch ofsilk . The viscoushardness supposed to be the natural property Of s ilk ,but which is increased - by treatment with dilute acids .

SEED E FFECTS . Are formed by tiny dots which

give the appearance as i f smal l seeds had been strewn

over the surface of the tissue .

SELVAGE . The edge o f a p iece ofgoods , this term

being synonymous with the term “l ist .”

SEN . A Japanese coin equivalent to hal f a cent ;100 sen equal one yen .

SERGE . French for twill .

SERGE MOIRE . A material with a plain or striped


rib weave made with spun s ilk warp and glazed cotton

weft,moiré finished . Sometimes made with mercer

ized cotton warp .

SERICIN . The name applied to the substance o fs i lk ; the natural

'

gum on silk .

SE RVI SI LK . Copyrighted trade name for a foundation silk for so ft, clinging fabrics .

SEWING S ILK . Composed offrom 3 to 24 threads,

2, 4 or 6’

OfWhich are united by twisting .

SHADING E FFECTS . E ffects produced by different

colors or qualities ofmaterials or by weav e, the resultbeing a gradual change of appearance from one color

or structure to another , as in the case of an ombré

or rainbow shadings (which see ) .

SHAFT. A single harness frame for a loom .

SHANTUNG . A rough - surfaced silk originally

woven from the wild silk Of China,with all knots

,

lumps and imper fections retained ; now largely'

pro

duced by domestic manufacturers .

SHED. The Opening made across theWarp by raising some threads and depressing others ; through this

Opening or shed the shuttle passes leaving the weft

in its wake .

SHEDDING . The dividing O f the warp threads into

two parts to form a passage for the shuttl e

SHEPHERD CHECKS,PLAI Ds . Small or large checks

or plaids s imi lar to those worn by the Scottish Shep

herds .

SH I K E GI NU . A Japanese'

habutai with doupion

fi ll ing.


SHIKII , BROCADE, BROCHE . B rand name for arough si lk material in plain , j acquard or broché weaves .Reg.

i

SHOE TOP S ILK . Heavy materials ofall - s ilk, s ilkand wool or s ilk and cotton in various weaves wovenplain and figured ; used for shoe tops .

SHOT S ILK . Fabrics woven with weft o f a di fferent color than that of the warp to show . in thefinished cloth different colors at different angles ; alsoknown as changeable and as iridescent s ilks .

SHOOT , SHOT . The we ft or fi l ling .

SHOWER- PROOF, SHOWER - PRoo‘

F FOULARD . Registered trade -mark for a process and material Ofsatinand twill weaves

,printed .

SHRINKAGE . The amount O f contraction which

most fabrics are subj ected to from the loom to thefinished state .

SHUSU - HABUTAI . A Japanese habutai in satin

weave.

SHUTTLE . The shuttle carries the fi ll ing or weft

across the warp in process Ofweaving

S ICILIENNE . A very l ightweight fabric'

f akin to

moussel ine de soie - also a corded s ilk and wool fabr icl ike bengaline .

SI GLATON . A_ fabric_worked with gold and usu

ally red,used in the Middle Ages for curtains and

mantles .

S ILK . The fine fiber spun by the caterp ilars Of

moths belonging chiefly to the Bombyx genus ; silk

yarn,thread

, or

'

cloth .


SILK SHODDY . Resembles wool shod dy in origin,

consi sting o f recovered fibersT rOm’imanufactured silks .

S ILK VELVET is usually called silk v elv et to dis

tinguish it from other kinds of velvet, v elveret or

velveteen _(cotton velvet ) .

SILK WADDING . Produced from the waste after

bourette spinning. See. Bourette S ilk .

S INGEING . Removing the fluffy nap from yarn

and fabric by burning.

"

S INGLES . A term re ferr ing to single threads hav

mgno twist . These are sometimes doubled in variousnumbers to give the. requis ite strength , appearance and

handle to the fabrics into which they are manufactured .

S ingles are woven in the raw or gum state , the fabrics

being degummed after weaving.

S I NGLE YARN . Yarn composed O f only one strand

or thread

S IZE . Any .viscid substance used for stiffeningand binding fabrics .

S IZING . A“ process Oftreating yarns or goods in

process o f finishing to render “same smooth and fi rm .

To test yarn to determine their s izes .

SKEIN . A lengt h O f yarn made up into a hank ,varying in S ize and length in different —fibers .

SKEIN OR YARN DYED . S ilk dyed in the thread or

skein form prior to weavingSLUGS

,NUBS OR N i B s . Thick

,lumpy spots in the

yarns or woven materials .

SNARL . A knot or curl on a yarn .


89 A D I C T I O N A RY

SPLIT- E DGE. Goods woven in two or more widths '

and separated by cutting between the edges .

S PONGE CLOTH . A cloth having a sur face resembling that Ofa small sponge .

SPUN S ILK . Waste s ilk spun into threads on spinning machines .

STENTERIN G ..See Tentering.

STIFLING. K ill ing the Chrysali s in the cocoon of

STRATFORD VELVET . Brand name for a Jasper

velvet piece—dyed . Reg.

STRI PE . A .term appl ied to patterns running longi

tudinally -w ith the warp in - textile fabr ics and may beeither woven or printed stripes .

STRIPPING .. Process o f removing sericin or gum

from raw Silk by bo iling Off.

STRUSSA. Consisting ofwaste s ilk from double

cocoons .

SUMMA Trade n ame given to a selected

habutai s ilk of close , smooth weave and high luster,claimed to be spot and waterproo f .

SURAH . A l ight,so ft

, tWilled . silk.

SURAH E COSSAI S QUADRILLE . A surah in design

and color ing ofS'

c'

o'

tch squares , or shepherd checks .

SURFACE - PRINT . Printing on the face ofa fabric .

SWATCH . A sample or strip O f material , a sample .

SWIVEL E FFECTS .“

Produced by use O f a diminu

tive shuttle in figure weaving,the same carrying

threads O f various shades w ith the Obj ect O f Obtain


ingSpecial -effects , as in the —shadingOfifigur'

es ,» flowers

,

foliage, etc.

SYRA GAZA . Registered trade name for a roughsilk, woven with Open mesh; and designed for

'

use

as lining .

TABBINET . A material Of s ilk and worsted likea fine tabby or poplin

,plain or moiréd an upholstery

fabric .

TABBIS . French for tabby . O ld name for a

watered or figured s ilk . Also commonly used to denote a plain or s imple weave .

TABBY . A plain or taffeta—l ike weave .

TAEL . A Chinese measure equivalent to one- and

a - third ounces ofsi lver but o f varying value in differ

ent districts .

TAFFETA . A s ilk fabric ofplain weave, w ith warp

threads much finer and more numerous than the filling threads . This makes

‘

the sur face O f the ‘ fabricribbed

,with warp alone showing .

‘

The name taffeta

is from the Pers ian taftan,to spin .

TAFFETA CHAMELEON . Taffeta hav ing two .colors

in the fi ll ing c ontrasting with a different one in the

warp ; a three - tone changeable effect.

TAFFETA FAcONNE . A taffeta with a jacquard or

fancy weave effect .

TAFFETA GLACE . A taffeta cloth shot With weftcontrasting with a different color “ in warp , two - tone

effect .

TAFFETA LUSTRE . A brill iant - strong -taffeta - clo-th .


TAFFETA ME TALLI QUE . A taffeta finished inmetall ic effect .

TAFFETA SOUPLESSE . Trade name for a pure dye,

so‘

ft finish taffeta,dyed in the piece .

TAFFETA UN I . P lain taffeta .

TAFFETA WEAVE . Same as plain weave or uni .

TAFFE TALI N E . P iece—dyed pongee with spun silkwe ft in taffeta finish .

TARTAN . From the French tar tane; Spanish,

tiritana— a sort of thin silk . Al so,a checkered or

cross - “pattern” or plaid in colors such as are recognized as dist inctive with the various Scott ish clans .

TASHIKO. Trade name for a perspiration - pro o f

Japanese silk .

TATSU BROCHE . A broché fabric with a weft of

dupion or double cocoon silk . Reg.

TENDER -GOODS . Cloths rendered weak by im

proper dyeing.

TENTERING . A finishing process in which goods

are widened out or tenter'

ed by~

being hooked on to

chains,which expand to the width required , then carry

the cloth through a heated chamber or over gas j ets

so that the cloth is dried in this position .

TERRY CLOTH .

‘ A material woven in looped effectforming a n uncut loope

'

d pile,as uncut velvet . One o f

the family o f loop—yarn construction similar to that Of

the Turkish toweling.

TERRY POPLIN . A si lk- and—wool fabric in which

the alternate warps are thrown to the surface in min

ute loop s .

O F S I L K - T E R M S 85

TERRY VELVET. A velvet showing a pile uncut .

TETE DE NEGRE . Niggerhead .

TEXTO FESTONA . An artistic embro idery floss

used for scalloping edges o f doil ies and centerpieces .Made only in pure white , that will wash without turn

ing to a yellow white .

TEXTO - ROPE .

- A trade term for an artificial thread

made in a great variety of artistic shades for highclass decorative hand embroidery .

THROWING . The process o f spinning silk by

winding,doubling and twisting.

THROWN S ILK . Material that has been doubledand spun into yarns o f various sizes— organzine or

tram— in preparation for the loom . The raw silk of

commerce being a continuous fiber, it is“thrown” into

yarns,whereas short staples , such as s ilk waste , cotton ,

wool or flax,are spun to achieve a like result .

THRUMS . E nds of weft or warp sticking up

through the cloth ; remainders ofwarp and Weft .T I E S ILKS . Cravat s ilks made especially for the

making ofmen ’ s neckwear .

TINSEL . Fine flattened metal threads twi stedabout a cord o f cotton or wool yarn .

TINTING . A process o f covering the s ilk with a

fugitive color so that it may be readily distinguishedwhen in contact with other s ilks and p articularly used

in throwing to keep separated the various lots o f s i lks

in the process o f throwing .

TONQUIN BROCHE . A coarse rough broché silk

material . Registered brand name .


TRAM . Filling,weft .

TRAVERS . S tripes running in the direction ofthefi l ling, similar to those in bayaderes (which see ) .

TREVETTE, TREVET . The cutting instrument orsliding kni fe in cutting velvets woven double .

TRI-COT CLOTH ; A knitted s ilk fabric made fromraw s ilk and piece dyed— also called j ersey cloth andmilanes s ilk cloth (which see ) .

TRICOTINE . A variation o f tricot .

TUFF- TAFFATY OR TUFTAFFETA . A tuft or shaggytaffeta fabric woven with a pile

,l ike velvet ; in use

inthe S ixteenth and Seventeenth Centuries . One of

the terms used then to imply a satin or a silk fabric“scraped or cut to produce fluffy sur faces .”

TULLE . A plain,fine silk net

TURC . Turkish colorings or designs ofTurkish

character .

TUSSAH . A species of rough silk obtained from

wild . worms , not“ in captivity

,

” and that feed on oak

and other leav es o f the forest . It is sometimes calledthe “Wild S i lk ofIndia

,i s darker in color than ordi

nary raw'

silk, contains more gum,and is more difficult

to util ize . Name also applied to silk fabrics made o f

these s i lks .

TWILL . Fabrics woven on the twill ing principle

with an interlacing effect running in a d iagonal direc

t ion across . the goods , as distinct from non—twill effects

which will follow the direction o f either warp or weft

or may have no definite direction whatever .

O F S I L K T E RM S 87

TWIST . The number Of twists_0r turns given to

a yarn to bind its fibers together .and thereby to add

more strength for manipulation and weaving. Theamount O f twist applied var1es according to the ma~

terial, process , means employed for its application, and

ultimate requirements .

TWI STING . The binding offibers into a yarn to

add to its strength . This is definitely accomplished byrunning the sp indle at a decided number Ofrevolutionsaccording to the number of inches taken up

- b_y the

rollers Ofthe spinning frame to'

which the s ilk i s de

l ivered .

TWI STING- I N . Joining a new warp to the ends of

an old one by twisting together .

TWI ST- S ILK OR SEWING TWIST . S i lk thread made

especial ly for sewing purposes .

TW ITTY . A term applied to yarn which is'

irregu

lar in Size .

TYRIAN TAFFETA . Brand name for a pure- dye

organzine taffeta . Reg.

UMBRELLA S ILK . P lain or twil l weave silks madeespecially for umbrellas . See Gloria .

UN I . P lain weave .

UNION FABRIC . Fabrics composed Of'

mixed ma

terials , such as cloths made up o f mixtures o f silk and

cotton or silk and wool .‘

USONA S ILK . A trade name for a silk-. and - cotton

mixed fabric made ofJapanese s ilks and proo fed .

Usucm .A varlety“

of, thin habutai - of'

Japanese

make .

(I)

U)


UTRECHT VELVET. .A furnitu re plush or velvet o fmohai r or sometim es ofcotton and mohair . Doubtlessthe nam e Ut recht was a trading term for the heat; r vel

vets that came from thi s district,as di stinguished from

the fin e silk velvets from France and Italy .

VALE NTI A. A fabric composed o f silk and woolen,

worsted or cotton yarns and especially designed for

waistcoats and shoe tops .

VARI E G ATED YARN . A yarn composed o f a num

ber of colors usually Obtained by printing.

VELOURS . French for velvet . From“

the Latin

fellow s— hairy . A pil e fabric somewhat akin to plush,that is produced in numberless forms, both plain and

in fancy effects .

VELOURS ALB IGEOIS . A‘

fancy striped velours fab

ric in two Or more tones , the stripes runn ing seven or

eight to the in ch .

VE LOURS—ANTIQUE- E COSSAI S . . An antique—plaided

effect velours .

V E LOL’

RS DE LUK E . B rand name for a pure—dye

spun silk velours. Reg.

VE LOURS E COSSAI S . A plaid velours .

VELOURS E CRA SE . S imilar to miroir velvet ;

VELOURS E MBOSSE . A velvet with the figured pat

tern embossed in relie f produced either in weaving or

by embossed roll ers .

VELOURS E NVERS ' SATIN . A fabric with a velvet

face and sat in back,as satin back ve lvet ribbon

“

.


90 A ~ D I - C T I O N A R Y

rope 500AD . (See Period Furnishings . Velv et

was frequently mentioned in E nglish inv entories, 1300AD . B y Spanish and Ital ian writers, 1400AD . A

writer in the early S ixteenth Century states that themanufacture of Ital ian - made satins and velvets

,both

plain and cut,

' i s made in a way totally unknown to the

ancients . (See Alan Cole,“Ornament in E uropean

S ilks,

” page

VELVETEEN . A fabric covered w ith a close,short

fine pile o f cotton ~ introduced on the we ft pile bas is .

VENETIAN . Brand name for an armure pongee .

VENETIAN VELVET . A velvet cloth made - with

yarn—dyed organzine .“

VESTINGS . Heavy textures of. all - s ilk, si lk- and

cotton Or s ilk—and - wool mixtures woven in various plain

and fancy weave effects and used for ’

v estings .

VIGOUREUX PRINTING . So named after t he in

v entor. The printing Of textile fibers to produce a

mixed color effect in the yarns and goods .

VOILES . VeihngsfiThe sheerest and th innest ofthe hard '

twist gauze fabrics .

WADDING OR NERI S ILK . The inner portions of

the cocoon are so termed .

’

WARP . The longitudinal threads in a woven

fabric .

WARP E FFECTS . Patterns which depend mainlyupon the _ treatment o f the warp in Weav ing.

WARPING . Winding or making the warp .


WARP PRINTS .- Fabrics in which designs have

been p r1nted on the stretched warp before the weav

WARP RI B . A warp surface weave m which theweft picks be1ng thicker or grouped together 1n greater

numbers , lay straight, causing the warp threads to bendround them and

“

thus produce a ribbed appearanceacross the piece , but with a warp surface . Hence theterm warp rib .

WASTE . Waste made in the process Ofmanufac

WATERING .

‘

Imparting a wavy pattern to the surfaceOffabrics, by pressure and heat . Same as moiré

,

which see .

WATERPROOF. A fabric which i s made waterproo f

by . one Of three methods : ( 1) B y some physical action on the material Ofwhich the

"

fabr1c l s composed .

(2) B y impregnating the material with some waterres isting agent . (3) B y coating the .material with a

fi lm Ofrubber or other water— res isting agent .

WATER - TABBY . A watered light - weight silk tissue .

WATTEAU . A pattern or design Sim1lar to those

produced by Watteau , the artist

WATT S ILK . A very irregular lowgrade ofre fusewaste raw s ilk.

WAVED WARP . The longitudinal threads in the

web osci llated to impart a -waved appearance to thecloth .

WEAVE . The interlacing o f warp and weft with

each other to form a suitable cloth.


WEAVING . The process o f producing a cloth bythe intersection Ofweft between the warp threads insuch a way as to form the desired interlacing.

WEB . The whole o f the textile material s on a

loom ; warp,

WEFT . Same as fi l ling . The cross threads in awoven fabr1c .

WEFT BARS . Broad bars or stripes running across

fabrics usually caused by we ft Of varying thickness

being woven in alongs ide one another . Such bars may

also be caused by defective letting—off and irregular

taking- up o f the loom mechanism,resulting in a varia

tion in the picks per inch .

WEFTING. Interlacing the weft with the warp ;fil l ing ; picking.

WEIGHTING . I ntroducing materials to increase

the bulk and weight Of s ilks .

WHIPCORD . A pronounced d iagonal rib or c’

ord

weave .

WHIP THREAD. The cross ing threadi

- in a gauze

fabric .

WILD S ILKS . Applied to fibers produced by cater

pillars,other than the bombyx mori . Although some

o f these wild species are protected against the weatherand the attacks O f birds , they are not cultivated like

the true s ilkworm .

WINDING . The process of winding silk from

skeins onto bobbins .

WOOF . Weft or fi l ling.


WRONG- DRAW . The drawing o f a warp threadthrough the wrong space in harness or weave , producing an imperfection in the cloth .

WROUGHT VELVET . The word wrought was usedin Olden times to mean a fabric with ornament or design “wrought in it

,meaning worked or wrought by

hand .

'

YARN DYED . Yarns dyed in the skein or in thethread state before weaving .

YEN . A monetary unit of Japan equivalent in

value to 49 842/1000 cen-ts , gold .

YURI - HANA . A l ining Silk recently introduced .

A trade name .

ZIG ZAG . term sometimes applied to herringbone textures and designs .

Documents

m t tt - Forgotten Books · It will prove a valuable reference book for use by manufacturers, ... -block printing in colors over a jacquard de ... -SHAKI. A rich E ast India silk