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Neil Wilson, Andy Symington
Scotland’s Highlands & Islands
Northern Highlands& Islands
p173
Inverness & the Central Highlands
p115Southern
Highlands &Islands
p46
Orkney &Shetland
p229
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Welcome to Scotland’s Highlands & Islands . . . . . 4
Scotland’s Highlands & Islands’ Map . . . . . . . . . .6
Scotland’s Highlands & Islands’ Top 19 . . . . . . . . .8
Need to Know . . . . . . . . . 20
If You Like . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
Month by Month . . . . . . . 25
Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . 28
Activities . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32
Regions at a Glance . . . . 43
SOUTHERN HIGHLANDS & ISLANDS . . . . . . . . 46Loch Lomond & the Trossachs . . . . . . . . . 48Loch Lomond . . . . . . . . . . . 48Crianlarich & Tyndrum . . . 52Arrochar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53The Trossachs . . . . . . . . . . . 53South Argyll . . . . . . . . . . 61Cowal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 61Bute . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 62Inveraray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 63Crinan Canal . . . . . . . . . . . . 64Kilmartin Glen . . . . . . . . . . . 65Kintyre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65Islay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69Jura . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74Colonsay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80Arran . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 81Brodick & Around . . . . . . . . 82Corrie to Lochranza . . . . . . 83Lochranza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83West Coast . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84South Coast . . . . . . . . . . . . 84Lamlash . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84Oban, Mull, Iona & Tiree . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86Oban . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86Around Oban . . . . . . . . . . . . 90Mull . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 92Iona . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 98Tiree . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100Coll . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 101North Argyll . . . . . . . . . . 102Loch Awe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 102Connel & Taynuilt . . . . . . . 103
WALKING THE WEST HIGHLAND WAY . . . 104Planning . . . . . . . . . . . . . 105The Walk . . . . . . . . . . . . 107
Day One: Milngavie to Drymen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 107Day Two: Drymen to Rowardennan . . . . . . . . . . 110Day Three: Rowardennan to Inverarnan . . . . . . . . . . 110Day Four: Inverarnan to Tyndrum . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .111Day Five: Tyndrum to Kings House Hotel . . . . . . 112Day Six: Kings House Hotel to Kinlochleven . . . 112Day Seven: Kinlochleven to Fort William . . . . . . . . . 113
INVERNESS & THE CENTRAL HIGHLANDS . . . . . . .115Inverness & the Great Glen . . . . . . . . . . . .118Inverness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 118Around Inverness . . . . . . . 123West of Inverness . . . . . . . 128Black Isle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 129Loch Ness . . . . . . . . . . . . . 130The Cairngorms . . . . . . 135Aviemore . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 135Around Aviemore . . . . . . . 138Grantown-on-Spey . . . . . . 140Kingussie & Newtonmore . . . . . . . . . . . 140Tomintoul & Around . . . . . 141Cockbridge to Tomintoul Road . . . . . . . . 142Royal Deeside . . . . . . . . . . 142The Angus Glens . . . . . . . 145Highland Perthshire . . . 146Dunkeld & Birnam . . . . . . 146Pitlochry . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 148Blair Atholl . . . . . . . . . . . . . 150Lochs Tummel & Rannoch . . . . . . . . . . . . . 151Aberfeldy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 152Kenmore . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 153Loch Tay & Ben Lawers . . .153
PLAN YOUR TRIP ON THE ROAD
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Contents
Fortingall . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 154Glen Lyon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 154West Highlands . . . . . . . 154Glen Coe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 155Kinlochleven . . . . . . . . . . . 158Fort William . . . . . . . . . . . . 159Around Fort William . . . . . 162Ardnamurchan . . . . . . . . . 164Road to the Isles . . . . . . . 165Knoydart . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 168Small Isles . . . . . . . . . . . 169Rum . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 170Eigg . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .171Canna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 172Muck . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 172
NORTHERN HIGHLANDS & ISLANDS . . . . . . . .173East Coast . . . . . . . . . . . 176Strathpeffer . . . . . . . . . . . . 176Tain . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 177Bonar Bridge & Around . . .177Lairg & Around . . . . . . . . . 178Dornoch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 178Golspie . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 179Helmsdale . . . . . . . . . . . . . 180Caithness . . . . . . . . . . . . 180Helmsdale to Lybster . . . 181Wick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 181John O’Groats . . . . . . . . . . 182Mey . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 182Thurso & Scrabster . . . . . 183North & West Coast . . . 188Thurso to Durness . . . . . . 188Durness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 190Durness to Ullapool . . . . . 191Ullapool . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 195Ullapool to Kyle of Lochalsh . . . . . . . . . . . . 196Kyle of Lochalsh . . . . . . . .203Kyle to the Great Glen . . .203Skye . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 204
Kyleakin (Caol Acain) . . . 207Broadford (An T-Ath Leathann) . . . . . . . . . . . . . 207Armadale & Sleat . . . . . . . 210Isleornsay . . . . . . . . . . . . . 210Elgol (Ealaghol) . . . . . . . . 210Cuillin Hills . . . . . . . . . . . . 211Minginish . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 212Portree (Port Righ) . . . . . 212Dunvegan (Dun Bheagain) . . . . . . . . 214Duirinish & Waternish . . . 214Trotternish . . . . . . . . . . . . . 215Raasay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 216Outer Hebrides . . . . . . . 217Lewis (Leodhais) . . . . . . . 218Harris (Na Hearadh) . . . . 221Berneray (Bearnaraigh) . . . . . . . . . . 224North Uist (Uibhist A Tuath) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 225Benbecula (Beinn Na Faoghla) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 225South Uist (Uibhist A Deas) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 226Barra (Barraigh) . . . . . . . . 227
ORKNEY & SHETLAND . . . . . . . 229Orkney . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 232Kirkwall . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 233East Mainland to South Ronaldsay . . . . . . . . . . . . . 237West & North Mainland . . .241Stromness . . . . . . . . . . . . . 243Hoy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 245Northern Islands . . . . . . . 247Shetland . . . . . . . . . . . . 250Lerwick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 252Bressay & Noss . . . . . . . . 256Scalloway . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 256South Mainland . . . . . . . . 257North Mainland . . . . . . . . . 259The North Isles . . . . . . . . .260
Scotland’s Highlands & Islands Today . . . . . . 264
History . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 266
Highland Culture . . . . . 274
Landscapes & Wildlife . . . . . . . . . . . . 282
Food & Drink . . . . . . . . . 289
Directory A-Z . . . . . . . . . 298
Transport . . . . . . . . . . . . 305
Glossary . . . . . . . . . . . . . 309
Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .312
Map Legend . . . . . . . . . . .319
UNDERSTAND
SPECIAL FEATURESActivities . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32Scottish Castles . . . . . . . 57Driving Tour: The Trossachs to Mull . . . . . . 85Driving Tour: A Loch Ness Circuit . . . . . . . . . 133Lochs & Mountains . . . 157Driving Tour: Wee Roads & Mighty Mountains . . .197Scotland’s Islands . . . . 209
SURVIVAL GUIDE
Itineraries
Glenfinnan
Glen Coe
Mallaig
Plockton
Inverness
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Loch Katrine
Firth ofForthAT L A N T I C
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The MinchMorayFirth
A Highland Fling
This tour takes in the scenic highlights of the Highlands, including the Isle of Skye.
Begin with a visit to the Trossachs for your first taste of Highland scenery; take a cruise on Loch Katrine and spend the night in Callander. Continue north via the Falls of Dochart at Killin and the fringes of Rannoch Moor.
The mountain scenery becomes more impressive, culminating in the grandeur of Glen Coe. Keen hill walkers will pause for a day at Fort William to climb Ben Nevis (plus another day to recover!) before taking the Road to the Isles past glorious Glenfin-nan and the Silver Sands of Morar to Mallaig. Overnight here and dine at one of its seafood restaurants.
Take the ferry to the Isle of Skye, spending a day or two exploring Scotland’s most fa-mous island, before crossing the Skye Bridge back to the mainland, then head north via the pretty village of Plockton to the magnificent mountain scenery of Glen Torridon. Spend a day or two hiking here, then follow the A832 alongside lovely Loch Maree and continue north into the big-sky wilderness of Coigach and Assynt, before making your way back south with an overnight in Inverness.
2 WEEKS
28 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
This route is usually done by car, but the Oban–Barra–Stornoway–Ullapool–Inverness loop also makes a brilliant cycle tour (around 270 miles, including the 60 miles from Ullapool ferry terminal to Inverness train station, making both start and finish accessi-ble by rail). CalMac’s Island Hopscotch ticket No 8 includes all the ferries needed for the Outer Hebrides part of this route.
From Oban it’s a five-hour ferry crossing to Barra; you’ll arrive in the evening so plan to spend the night there (book ahead). In the morning, after a visit to romantic Ki-simul Castle and a tour around the island, take the ferry to South Uist. Walk along the wild beaches of the west coast, sample the local seafood and, if you’ve brought your fish-ing rod, look forward to a bit of sport on the island’s many trout lochs. There are good places to stay at Polochar, Lochboisdale and Lochmaddy (two nights should be enough).
Keep your binoculars handy as you follow the road north through Benbecula and North Uist, as this is prime birdwatching country. If you’re camping or hostelling, a night at Berneray is a must before taking the ferry to Harris. Pray for sun, as the road along Harris’ west coast has some of the most spectacular beaches in Scotland. The main road continues north from Tarbert (good hotels) through the rugged Harris hills to Lewis.
Don’t go directly to Stornoway; instead head to the Callanish Standing Stones and Arnol Blackhouse museum – the highlights of the Western Isles. If you have time (two days is ideal), detour west to the beautiful beaches around Miavaig and Traigh Uige; there’s plenty of wild and semiwild camping.
Spend your final night in the Hebrides in Stornoway (eating at Digby Chick), then take the ferry to Ullapool, where you have the choice of heading straight to Inverness, or continuing north around the mainland coast through the gorgeous wilderness of Coi-gach and Assynt, and on via Cape Wrath and Durness to Thurso, where the ferry to the Orkney Islands awaits.
2 WEEKS
Miavaig & Traigh Uige
Durness
UllapoolTarbert
Thurso
Oban
Inverness
Stornoway
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South Uist #•
North Uist #•
Harris #•
Berneray #•
CallanishStanding Stones
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Lewis#•
ArnolBlackhouse
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Orkney Islands#•
Coigach#•
Assynt#•
CapeWrath
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29PLAN
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The central and western Highlands are famous for mountain scenery, ancient pine forests and whisky distilleries.
Beginning in Pitlochry, abandon the main A9 road and enjoy a day’s scenic drive east across the hills on the A924, and then north on the A93 through the ski area of Glenshee to the remote Highland outpost of Braemar. Spend a night here, and the following day either hike in the hills nearby or visit Balmoral Castle before spending your second night at Ballater.
From here the roller-coaster A939 takes you north to Tomintoul and Glenlivet, close to the heartland of Speyside whisky. Take your time visiting distilleries as you amble west along the Spey valley to Aviemore, in the Cairngorm National Park. Spend at least two nights here to explore the ancient pine forests of Rothiemurchus and take a trip on the Cairngorm Mountain Railway.
Head west, stopping at the Highland Folk Museum at Newtonmore before con-tinuing to Fort William. Overnight here, then spend a morning exploring Glen Nevis and head north along the Great Glen to see Urquhart Castle and Loch Ness – leave time for a monster-spotting cruise – and finish up in Inverness.
1 WEEK
Heart of the Highlands
Argyll and its islands offer a varied taste of Highland scenery, wildlife and history, all within a few hours’ drive of Glasgow.
Begin with a scenic drive from Dunoon to Portavadie via Benmore Botanic Gar-den, then take the ferry to the pretty fishing village of Tarbert. Devote a day to the Kintyre peninsula, taking in Camp-beltown, the Mull of Kintyre and the Isle of Gigha. Then allow at least two days for touring Islay and its famous distilleries.
Back on the mainland, head north through Knapdale – visiting the Beaver Detective Trail – to the prehistoric sites of Kilmartin Glen and on to Oban.
Take the ferry to Craignure for a tour of the Isle of Mull, being sure to visit Duart Castle and Iona, before spending a night at Tobermory. From here you can cross to Kilchoan, allowing a trip to Ardnamur-chan Point, the most westerly point of the British mainland, before the scenic drive along Loch Sunart to Corran Ferry.
Head back south via the scenic splendour of Glen Coe and the minor road through Glen Orchy to reach Loch Awe. From here you can return to your starting point by way of Inveraray and Loch Lomond.
10 DAYS
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Ballater
Tarbert
Tobermory
Dunoon
Aviemore
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FortWilliam
Inveraray
Beaver Detective TrailKilmartin Glen
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AT L A N T I CO C E A N
Isle ofMull
Isle ofIslay
Mull of Kintyre
Isle of Gigha
Firth ofForth
Loch Awe
Glen CoeGlen NevisArdnamurchan
Point
Loch Lomond
Loch Ness
Iona
Argyll & the IslesHeart of the Highlands
Argyll & the Isles
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Top: Urquhart Castle (p131)
Bottom: Callanish Standing Stones
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SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feed-back goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters.
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WRITER THANKSNeil WilsonThanks to the friendly and helpful tourist office staff all over the Highlands; to Steven Fallon, Keith Jeffrey, Fiona Garven, Derek McCrindle, Brendan Bolland, Jenny Neil, Tom and Christine Duffin, Steve Hall, Elaine Simpson, Peter Fallon and Duncan Pepper; and, as ever, to Carol Downie. Thanks also to James Smart and the editorial team at Lonely Planet.
Andy SymingtonIt’s always a huge pleasure to enjoy the very gener-ous hospitality of Jenny Neil and Brendan Bolland, and to work with Neil Wilson, Cliff Wilkinson and the excellent LP team. Numerous other people have been
very generous with time and information. I’d particu-larly like to thank Robin Mitchell, Maggie Maguire, Graeme Campbell, Jen Stewart and the staff at many tourist information offices, especially Judith and Janice at Bowmore, Sheona at John O’Groats, Susan at Callander and Neil at Kirkwall.
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTSClimate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, 163344.Cover photograph: Tobermory, Mull; Kathy Collins/Getty ©
Behind the Scenes
THIS BOOKThis 4th edition of Lonely Planet’s Scotland’s Highlands & Islands guidebook was curated by Neil Wilson, and was researched and written by Neil and Andy Symington. Neil and Andy also wrote the previous two editions. This
guidebook was produced by the following:Destination Editor Clifton WilkinsonSenior Product Editor Genna PattersonProduct Editor Will AllenSenior Cartographer Mark Griffiths
Book Designer Clara MonittoAssisting Editors Michelle Bennett, Nigel Chin, Victoria Harrison, Gabrielle StefanosCover Researcher Naomi ParkerThanks to Sandrine Dugast, C Raitt, Lyahna Spencer, Paul G Stewart, Bob Sweet
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
312
Index
Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000
AAberfeldy 152-3Aberfoyle 53-5accessible travel 298accommodation 298-300,
see also individual locations
activities 22, 25-7, 32-42adventure sports
Kinlochleven 159Loch Morlich 138Newtonmore 141Pitlochry 149Torridon 200
air travel 305, 306, see also scenic flights
amusement parks 139An Tairbeart 222An T-Ath Leathann 207Angus Glens 145-6Applecross 200-1aquariums
Loch Lomond Sea Life 50-1Mull Aquarium 94
archaeological sites 22, see also standing stones
Banks Chambered Tomb 240
Barnhouse Neolithic Village 242
Blackhammer 249Broch of Gurness 243Brough of Birsay 243Dunadd Fort 65Eagle Stone 176Grey Cairns of Camster 181Jarlshof 258Knowe of Yarso 249Maeshowe 241-2Midhowe Cairn &
Broch 249Mine Howe 237Ness of Brodgar 241
Old Scatness 258Quoyness Chambered
Tomb 249-50Ring of Brodgar 242Skara Brae 242, 238Standing Stones of
Stenness 242Taversoe Tuick 249Tomb of the Eagles 240Unstan Chambered
Cairn 242Ardnamurchan 164-5area codes 21, 303-4Argyll, see North Argyll,
South ArgyllArisaig 166-7, 23Armadale 210Arnol 220Arran 81-6, 81Arrochar 53Assynt 192-4ATMs 302-3Aviemore 135-8
Bbagpipes 279Balamory 94Ballater 142-3Balloch 50Balmoral Castle 57, 143, 56-7Balquhidder 59Barra 227-8Barraigh 227-8bathrooms 304beaches 17, 24
Barra 228Dornoch 178Dunvegan 214Durness 190Harris 223, 17Lewis 219, 220, 221Mull 96Nairn 123Road to the Isles 167Sandwood Bay 191Shetland 258
Bearnaraigh 224Beauly 128beavers 65beer 293-5, 294, see
also breweriesBeinn Na Faoghla 225-6Ben Arthur 53Ben Lawers 60, 153-4Ben Lomond 53Ben Nevis 15, 164, 157, 15,
109, 156-7, 157Benbecula 225-6Berneray 224Bettyhill 189-90Bigton 258birdwatching 36-7, 78-9,
208, 287Boat of Garten 139Fair Isle 261Harris 223Mull 92North Isles 260Shetland 16, 252, 258,
262, 17Birnam 146-8Birsay 243Black Isle 129-30Blair Atholl 150-1Blair Castle 150-1, 127Boat of Garten 139-40boat travel 306boat trips
Cape Wrath 193Coigach 194Crinan Canal 64Cuillin Hills 211Elgol 211Handa Island 192Harris 223Inverness 118-20Iona 99Islay 69John O’Groats 182Kyle of Lochalsh 203Lewis 221Loch Katrine 55Loch Lomond 48, 50
Loch Ness 131, 132Loch Shiel 166Mallaig 168Mousa 257Mull 92Oban 86, 87Plockton 202Portree 212Seil 91Shetland 252Summer Isles 195Uist 226Wick 181
Boddam 258Bonar Bridge 177-8Bonnie Prince Charlie 15,
123, 160, 166, 214, 226, 269, 279
books 264, 270, 276, 286, 290
Bowmore 71-2Brae 259Braemar 144-5Braemar Gathering 26,
144, 27Braveheart 159, 162Bressay 256breweries
Black Isle Brewery 129Cairngorm Brewery 136Colonsay Brewery 80Fyne Ales 64Islay Ales 295Isle of Arran Brewery 82Isle of Skye Brewery 215-16Orkney Brewery 242-3,
294Broadford 207Brodick 82-3budgeting 21, 290, 301Burray 240bus tours
Inverness 120Jura 75Skye 206
bus travel 305, 306-7business hours 303
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
313IN
DEX B
-F Bute 62-3Butt of Lewis 219
CCairngorm Mountain 138-9Cairngorms 18, 135-46,
137, 19, 41, 124, 126-7Caithness 180-8Calanais 220Caledonian Canal 132, 157,
160, 163, 156-7Callander 55-9Callanish 220Callanish Standing Stones
13, 220, 13, 31, 185Campbeltown 67-9Canna 172canoeing, see kayaking &
canoeingCaol Acain 207Cape Wrath 193car travel 305-6, 307, see
also driving toursCarrbridge 139castles 10, 24, 57
Amhuinnsuidhe Castle 223
Armadale Castle 210Balmoral Castle 57, 143,
56-7Blair Castle 150-1, 127Braemar Castle 144Brodick Castle 82Castle Fraser 57Castle Menzies 152Castle of Mey 182-3Castle Stalker 103Cawdor Castle 128Corgarff Castle 142Craigievar Castle 57Duart Castle 94Dunollie Castle 86Dunrobin Castle 179-80,
186-7Dunstaffnage Castle 57,
103, 57Dunvegan Castle 214, 56Eilean Donan Castle 203,
10, 184Glamis Castle 57Glengorm Castle 96Inveraray Castle 63, 277Kerrera 91Kilchurn Castle 102Kinloch Castle 170Kisimul Castle 227-8Lews Castle 218Lochranza Castle 83Noltland Castle 247Rothesay Castle 62
Scalloway Castle 257Skipness Castle 67Tarbert Castle 66Urquhart Castle 131,
31, 124cathedrals, see churches &
cathedralscaves
Boat Cave 99Davaar Cave 68Fingal’s Cave 99Rob Roy’s cave 110Smoo Cave 190Spar Cave 211
ceilidhs 18, 279, 18cell phones 20, 303Central Highlands 44,
115-72, 47accommodation 115climate 115food 115highlights 116-17travel seasons 115
children, travel with 300churches & cathedrals
Dornoch Cathedral 178Dunkeld Cathedral 146-7Fortrose Cathedral 129Gigha 67Italian Chapel 240Round Church 71St Andrew’s Cathedral 118St Clement’s Church 223St Magnus Cathedral 233
Clearances 180, 270-1climate 20, 25-7climbing, see rock climbingCobbler 53Cockbridge 142Coigach 194Coll 101-2, 93Colonsay 80-1, 71Connel 103cooking courses 292-3Corryvreckan Whirlpool 74Cowal 61-2Craignure 94credit cards 303Crianlarich 52-3Crinan Canal 64-5crofting 180, 272-3Cromarty 130cruises, see boat tripsCuillin Hills 11, 211-12, 11Culloden Battlefield 123culture 264-5, 274-81curling 281currency 20customs regulations 300-1
cycling 36, 306, 39, see also mountain biking
Braemar 144Glen Lyon 154Loch Katrine Circuit 54Loch Lomond 48Lochs & Glens Cycle
Way 60Oban 86
Ddance 18, 278-80, 281Devil’s Staircase 114dinosaurs 216disabilities, travellers
with 298distilleries
Aberfeldy Distillery 152Ardbeg 70, 77Ardnamurchan
Distillery 165Blair Athol Distillery 148Bowmore Distillery 71Bruichladdich 72Edradour Distillery 148Glengoyne Distillery
107, 108Glenmorangie 177, 184Highland Park Distillery
234-5Isla of Jura Distillery 74Islay 73Isle of Arran Distillery 83Isle of Harris
Distillery 222Kilchoman 72Kirkjuvagr Orkney Gin 235Lagavulin 70Lagg Distillery 84Laphroaig 70Lussa Gin 74Macallan Distillery 296,
294Oban Distillery 86Old Pulteney 181Raasay Distillery 216Springbank 68Talisker Distillery 212,
296Tobermory Distillery 95Torabhaig Distillery 210
diving & snorkelling 42Oban 86-7Scapa Flow 246
dolphin watching 118, 129, 130, 167
Dornoch 178-9drinks, see beer, whiskydriving tours
Loch Ness 133, 133
Northern Highlands 197, 197
Trossachs to Mull 85, 85Drumnadrochit 131-2Drymen 107Duirinish 214-15Dun Bheagain 214Dunkeld 146-8Dunnet Head 183, 287Dunoon 61Dunrobin Castle 179-80,
186-7Dunstaffnage Castle 57,
103, 57Dunvegan 214Dunvegan Castle 214, 56Durness 190-1
EEalaghol 210-11economy 264-5Eigg 171-2, 23, 126-7Eilean Donan Castle 203,
10, 184electricity 301Elgol 210-11emergencies 21environmental issues 264,
286-8Eshaness 259-60events 25-7exchange rates 21
FFair Isle 261Fèis Ìle 25, 69festivals 25-7, see
also Highland Games, music festivals
Fetlar 262fishing 38-40, 70, 265, 39
Aviemore 136Gairloch 198Loch Rannoch 151Loch Tay 60, 154Outer Hebrides 225, 226River Dee 142River Spey 136, 140River Tay 147Skye 212
flights, see scenic flightsfood 10, 289-96forests 284-5
Garadhban Forest 110Queen Elizabeth Forest
Park 54Rothiemurchus Estate
135, 124Forsinard 190
314
IND
EX F-M
Fort Augustus 132-5Fort George 123, 126Fort William 114, 159-62, 277Fortingall 154Fortrose 129-30
GGaelic language 276Gairloch 198-9galleries, see museums &
galleriesgardens, see parks &
gardensGarenin 220gay travellers 302geography 282-8geology 282-3Gigha 67Glen Affric 128-9Glen Clova 145-6Glen Coe 13, 155-8, 13, 125Glen Feshie 139Glen Lyon 154Glen Nevis 162-3Glen Shiel 203-4Glen Torridon 200Glenelg 203-4Glenesk 146Glenfinnan 166Glenshee 145golf 37-8, 69, 179Golspie 179-80Grantown-on-Spey 140Great Bernera 220-1Groove Loch Ness 26, 131
Hhaggis 290, 289, 291Handa Island 192Harris 221-4Harry Potter 159, 162, 166health 301-2Hebridean Celtic Festival 26,
218, 27Hebrides, see Outer
HebridesHelmsdale 180Highland Clearances 180,
270-1highland dancing 279-80Highland Games 280-1, 278
Braemar Gathering 26, 144, 27
Cowal Highland Gathering 61
Nairn Highland Games 123
Oban Games 87Highland Perthshire 146-
54, 124hiking, see walkingHill House 54Hillswick 259-60history 266-73holidays 303Holy Island 84Hoy 245-7
Iimmigration 305insurance 302internet access 302internet resources 21Inveraray 63-4Inverarnan 51, 111Inverness 44, 118-22, 119Inversnaid 51-2, 110Iona 12, 98-100, 12, 76,
209, 274islands 15, 23-4, 209, 286,
see also individual islands
Islay 69-74, 71, 77Isleornsay 210itineraries 28-31
JJacobites 269-70John O’Groats 182Jura 74-5, 71, 76
Kkayaking & canoeing 17,
40-1, 17, 40Argyll 90Great Glen Canoe Trail
130, 160Lochinver 192Oban 86Plockton 202Road to the Isles 167Seil 91Shetland 259Skye 206, 186Tay 147
Kenmore 153Kerrera 90-1Killin 59-60Kilmartin Glen 65, 76Kincraig 139Kingussie 140-1Kinlochleven 113, 158-9Kintyre 65-9Kirkwall 233-7, 234
Knoydart 168-9Kyle of Lochalsh 203Kyleakin 207Kylesku 192
LLairg 178Lamb Holm 240Lamlash 84-6languages 20, 276legal matters 302Leodhais 218-21Lerwick 252-6, 254, 238lesbian travellers 302Lewis 218-21LGBTIQ+ travellers 302literature 274-8Loch Achray 55Loch Awe 102-3, 157, 156Loch Etive 103Loch Finlaggan 73Loch Fyne 64Loch Glencoul 192Loch Katrine 55Loch Lomond 48-52, 112,
49, 108Loch Lubnaig 59, 40Loch Maree 199Loch Morlich 138Loch Ness 130-5, 157,
39, 156Loch Ness monster 134Loch Rannoch 151-2Loch Tay 153-4Loch Tummel 151-2Lochcarron 201Lochinver 192-4Lochranza 83-4Luing 91Luss 50Lybster 181, 186Lyme disease 301-2
MMachrihanish 69Mackintosh, Charles
Rennie 54Maeshowe 241-2Mallaig 168maps 33, 302marine wildlife 178, 198,
see also dolphin watch-ing, whale watching
measures 300Mey 182-3midges 38Midhowe Cairn & Broch 249Milngavie 107Minginish 212
mobile phones 20, 303money 20, 21, 301, 302-3moors 283Morar 166-7motorcycle travel 305-6,
307, see also driving tours
Mount Stuart 63mountain biking 34-5, 35,
see also cyclingAviemore 135-6BikeGlenlivet 142Golspie 179Great Glen Mountain
Bike Trails 130Killin 60Kyle of Sutherland
Trails 178Nevis Range 163Newtonmore 141
Mousa 257-8Muck 172, 126-7Mull 92-8, 93Mull of Kintyre 68Munro bagging 33-4museums & galleries 22
An Lanntair Arts Centre 218
Ardnamurchan Natural History & Visitor Centre 165
Beatrix Potter Exhibition & Garden 147
Caithness Horizons 183Calanais Visitor
Centre 220Calgary Art in Nature 97Clansman Centre 132Clò Mòr 223Culloden Visitor
Centre 123Easdale Island Folk
Museum 91Gateway to the Glens
Museum 145Glencoe Folk
Museum 155Glencoe Visitor
Centre 155Glenesk Retreat & Folk
Museum 146Glenfinnan Station
Museum 166Glenfinnan Visitor
Centre 166Grantown Museum 140Groam House
Museum 129Hamilton Toy
Collection 55Hebridean Whale &
Dolphin Trust 94
Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000
315IN
DEX M
-S Highland Folk
Museum 141Highland Museum of
Childhood 176Hugh Miller’s Cottage &
Museum 130Inveraray Jail 64Inverness Museum & Art
Gallery 118Iona Heritage Centre 99Isle of Arran Heritage
Museum 82Kildonan Museum 226Kilmartin House
Museum 65Land, Sea & Islands
Visitor Centre 167Loch Fyne Gallery 66Loch Ness Centre &
Exhibition 131Mallaig Heritage
Centre 168Melt Gallery 150Mull Museum 95Museum nan Eilean 218Museum of Islay Life 72-3Museum of the Isles 210Nairn Museum 123Old Haa Museum 260Orkney Museum 235Orkneyinga Saga
Centre 249Ross of Mull Historical
Centre 98Russian Arctic Convoy
Exhibition Centre 198Sanday Heritage
Centre 250Scalloway Museum 256-7Scapa Flow Visitor Centre
& Museum 245-6Scottish Crannog
Centre 153Scottish Slate Islands
Heritage Trust 91Shetland Crofthouse
Museum 258Shetland Museum 252Shetland Textile
Museum 252Skerryvore Lighthouse
Museum 100Skye Museum of Island
Life 215Staffin Dinosaur
Museum 216Strathnaver Museum 189Stromness Museum
243-4Sumburgh Head Visitor
Centre 258Taigh Chearsabhagh 225
Tain Through Time 177Talla na Mara 223Tangwick Haa
Museum 259Timespan 180Tomintoul & Glenlivet
Discovery Centre 142Uig Museum 221Ullapool Museum 195Unst Boat Haven 261Unst Heritage Centre 261Watermill 152West Highland Museum
159-60Westray Heritage
Centre 247Wick Heritage Centre 181
music 264, 278-80music festivals
Arran Folk Festival 82Fèis Ìle 69Groove Loch Ness 26, 131Hebridean Celtic
Festival 26, 218, 27Highlands & Islands
Music & Dance Festival 87
Islay Jazz Festival 69Mendelssohn on Mull 93Mull Music Festival 93Shetland Folk
Festival 252St Magnus Festival 235Tarbert Music Festival 66Tiree Music Festival 100-1
NNa Gearrannan 220Na Hearadh 221-4Nairn 123-8national parks &
reserves 286Ben Lawers National
Nature Reserve 153Cairngorms National
Park 135-46, 137Glen Affric National
Nature Reserve 128Trossachs National
Park 48, 53-60, 49nature reserves
Craigellachie Nature Reserve 135
Handa Island Nature Reserve 192
Hermaness National Nature Reserve 260
Isle of Noss 256Noup Head 247
Nevis Range 163-4, 35newspapers 300
Newtonmore 140-1North Coast 500 18, 189,
18, 184North Ronaldsay 250North Uist 225Northern Highlands &
Islands 44, 173-228, 174-5
accommodation 173climate 173food 173highlights 174-5travel seasons 173
Noss 256
Ooats 293Oban 86-90, 88, 11, 14, 78Old Man of Hoy 16, 245,
16, 239opening hours 303Orkney 44, 232-50, 230-1
accommodation 229climate 229food 229highlights 230-1travel seasons 229
Outer Hebrides 217-28, 205Outlander 159
PPapa Westray 248parks & gardens
Achamore Gardens 67Benmore Botanic
Garden 61Colonsay House
Gardens 80Dunkeld House
Grounds 147Explorers Garden 148Inverewe Garden 198Ness Islands 118
passports 305Perthshire, see Highland
PerthshirePitlochry 148-50planning
basics 20-1budgeting 21calendar of events 25-7internet resources 21itineraries 28-31regions 43-4travel seasons 20, 25-7
Plockton 201-2poetry 275politics 264-5population 265
Port Askaig 73-4Port Charlotte 72-3Port Ellen 70-1Port Righ 212-14Portree 212-14postal services 303prehistoric sites 22public holidays 303
RRaasay 216-17radio 300rafting
Aberfeldy 152Tay 147
railwaysCairngorm Mountain
Railway 138-9Jacobite Steam
Train 159Strathspey Steam
Railway 135Rannoch Moor 151, 108religion 265Road to the Isles 15,
165-8, 14Rob Roy 60rock climbing 41-2, 160,
204-5Rosemarkie 129-30Rothesay 62-3Rousay 249Rowardennan 51, 110Royal Deeside 142-5, 126-7ruins
Beauly Priory 128Clickimin Broch 252Earl’s Palace 235, 243Finlaggan 73-4Inchmahome Priory 54Oronsay Priory 80Ruthven Barracks 141
Rum 170, 23, 126-7
Ssafety 303salmon 265, 286Sanday 249-50Sandwick 257-8Sandwood Bay 191Scalloway 256-7Scapa Flow 246scenic flights 48-50Schiehallion 157, 157Scott, Sir Walter 276-8Scourie 192Scrabster 183-8scuba diving, see diving &
snorkelling
316
IND
EX S-Z
sea kayaking, see kayaking & canoeing
seafoodSeil 91-2senior travellers 301Shetland 44, 250-62, 208,
230-1accommodation 229climate 229food 229highlights 230-1travel seasons 229
shinty 281Skara Brae 242, 238Skipness 67Skye 204-17, 205, 32, 186,
208-9Sleat 210Small Isles 169-72smoked fish 291-2smoking 300Snow Roads 140snow sports 41
Cairngorm Mountain 139, 41
Glen Coe 155Glenshee 145Lecht 2090 142Nevis Range 163
South Argyll 61-81South Harris 17South Ronaldsay 240-1South Uist 226-7Southern Highlands &
Islands 43, 46-103, 47accommodation 46climate 46food 46highlights 47travel seasons 46
sport 280-1, see also individual sports
St Kilda 227St Ninian’s Isle 238Staffa 99, 208standing stones
Callanish Standing Stones 13, 220, 13, 31, 185
Kilmartin Glen 65, 76Ring of Brodgar 242Standing Stones of
Stenness 242
Steornabhagh 218-20Stevenson, Robert Louis
276-8Stornoway 218-20Strathglass 128-9Strathnaver 190Strathpeffer 176-7Stromness 243-5student travellers 301Sumburgh 258Summer Isles 195surfing 42
TTain 177-8Tarbert 66-7, 222, 79Tarbet 50tartan 280tax 306Taynuilt 103telephone services 20,
303-4Thurso 183-8ticks 301-2Tighnabruaich 61-2time 20, 304Tiree 100-1, 93Tobermory 94-6toilets 304Tomintoul 141-2Torridon 200tourist information 304tours 307-8, see also boat
trips, bus tours, walking tours, wildlife tours
train travel 306, 308 see also railways
travel to/from Scotland’s Highlands & Islands 305-6
travel within Scotland’s Highlands & Islands 306-8
Trossachs 48, 53-60, 49Trotternish 215-16TV 300Tyndrum 52-3, 112
UUibhist A Deas 226-7Uibhist A Tuath 225Uist, see North Uist,
South UistUllapool 195-6Unst 260-2Up Helly Aa 25, 253Urquhart Castle 131, 31, 124
Vvacations 303vegetarians 292Vikings 267-8visas 20, 304volunteering 304
Wwalking 23, 33-4
Affric-Kintail Way 128Ballater 143Beinn Eighe Mountain
Trail 199, 285Ben Arthur 53Ben Bhraggie 179Ben Lomond 53Ben Nevis 15, 164Birks of Aberfeldy 152Braemar 144Callander 58Cape Wrath Trail 193Cobbler 53Conic Hill 110, 108Corryvreckan
Viewpoint 75Cowal Way 61Devil’s Staircase 114Five Sisters of Kintail 204Gleann Lichd 204Glen Lyon 154Glencoe Lochan 155Glenshee 145Goatfell 82Great Glen Way 130Great Trossachs Path 48Grey Mare’s Tail 159Hebridean Way 226Hermitage 147Kerrera 90Killin 60Kintyre Way 66Ladhar Bheinn 169Loch Achray 55Loch Lomond 48Loch Morlich 138Lost Valley 155Mamores 159Meallfuarvonie 130Neptune’s Staircase
160, 163Rob Roy Way 48Sgurr of Eigg 171Skye 204South Loch Ness Trail 130Speyside Way 42Stac Pollaidh 194
Three Lochs Way 48Torridon 200West Highland Way 9,
104-14, 105, 107, 111, 113, 5, 9, 34, 78, 284
walking toursCairngorm Reindeer
Centre 138Colonsay 80Glencoe 155Mull 93Skye 206
water sports 48, see also individual water sports
Loch Morlich 138Tiree 100
Waternish 214-15weather 20, 25-7weights 300West Highland Way 9, 104-
14, 105, 107, 111, 113, 5, 9, 34, 78, 284
West Highlands 154-69Westray 247-8whale watching 12, 37,
12, 37Gairloch 198Lewis 218Mull 95, 96Road to the Isles 167
whisky 9, 265, 295-6, 8-9, 296, see also distilleries
white-water rafting, see rafting
Wick 181wildlife 282-8, 23, 78-9,
208, 282, 287, 288wildlife tours
Aberfeldy 153Fort William 160Mull 92, 93Shetland 251
women travellers 304work 304
YYell 260
Zziplining 54zoos & wildlife reserves
Balranald RSPB Reserve 225
Highland Wildlife Park 139
Loch of the Lowes Wildlife Centre 147
Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000
317N
OTES
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319
Walking Tour detourWalking Tour
Path/Walking Trail
BankEmbassy/ConsulateHospital/MedicalInternetPolicePost OfficeTelephoneToiletTourist InformationOther Information
AirportBorder crossingBus
CyclingFerry
U-Bahn/Underground station
MonorailParking
Metro station
Petrol stationS-Bahn/Subway stationTaxi
Train station/RailwayTram
Other Transport
LighthouseHut/Shelter
Beach
LookoutMountain/VolcanoOasisParkPassPicnic AreaWaterfall
River, CreekIntermittent River
Swamp/Mangrove
Reef
Canal
Water
Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake
Glacier
Beach/Desert
Airport/Runway
Cemetery (Christian)
Cemetery (Other)
Park/Forest
Mudflat
Sportsground
Sight (Building)
International
DisputedRegional/SuburbMarine ParkCliffWall
Capital (National)Capital (State/Province)City/Large TownTown/Village
State/Province
LaneTertiary
TollwayFreewayPrimary
StepsPlaza/Mall
Pedestrian overpass
Secondary
Unsealed roadRoad under construction
Tunnel
Cable car/Funicular
BeachBird SanctuaryBuddhistCastle/PalaceChristianConfucianHinduIslamicJainJewishMonumentMuseum/Gallery/Historic BuildingRuin
Sento Hot Baths/Onsen
ShintoSikhTaoistWinery/VineyardZoo/Wildlife SanctuaryOther Sight
DivingBodysurfing
Sleeping
Eating
Entertainment
Shopping
Drinking & NightlifeCafe
CampingHut/Shelter
Canoeing/KayakingCourse/Tour
SkiingSnorkellingSurfingSwimming/PoolWalkingWindsurfingOther Activity
Tube station
T-bane/Tunnelbana station
Gate
Information Routes
Boundaries
Hydrography
Areas
Geographic
Population
Transport
Sights
Activities,Courses & Tours
Sleeping
Eating
Drinking & Nightlife
Entertainment
ShoppingNote: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book
Map Legend
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
OUR STORYA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.
Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.
Published by Lonely Planet Global LimitedCRN 5541534th edition – February 2019ISBN 978 1 78657 286 8© Lonely Planet 2019 Photographs © as indicated 201910 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in ChinaAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.
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OUR WRITERSNeil WilsonNeil was born in Scotland and has lived there most of his life. Based in Perthshire, he has been a full-time writer since 1988, working on more than 80 guidebooks for various publishers, including the Lonely Planet guides to Scotland, England, Ireland and Prague. An outdoors enthusiast since childhood, Neil is an active hill-walker, mountain-biker, sailor, snowboarder, fly-fisher and rock-climber, and has climbed and tramped in four continents, including ascents of Jebel Toubkal
in Morocco, Mount Kinabalu in Borneo, the Old Man of Hoy in Scotland’s Orkney Islands and the Regular Northwest Face of Half Dome in California’s Yosemite Valley.
Andy SymingtonAndy has written or worked on over a hundred books and other updates for Lonely Planet (especially in Europe and Latin America) and other publishing com-panies, and has published articles on numerous subjects for a variety of newspa-pers, magazines, and websites. He part-owns and operates a rock bar, has written a novel and is currently working on several fiction and non-fiction writing projects. Originally from Australia, Andy moved to northern Spain many years ago.
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
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