©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltdmedia.lonelyplanet.com/shop/pdfs/chicago-7-contents.pdf · 2013. 11. 16. · Ruin Winery/Vineyard Zoo Other Sight Beach Canoeing/Kayaking Skiing

“All you’ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over.

So go!”

TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER – LONELY PLANET

THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY

Karla Zimmerman, Sara Benson

Chicago

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Contents

Welcome to Chicago ....... 4

Chicago’s Top 10 ............. 6

What’s New .................... 13

Need to Know ................ 14

Top Itineraries ............... 16

If You Like... .................... 18

Month by Month ............ 21

With Kids ........................24

Eating ............................26Drinking & Nightlife... 29

Entertainment ............. 31Shopping .......................33Sports & Activities .....35Gay & Lesbian ..............37

Plan Your Trip page 1

Understand Chicago 233

Survival Guide 261

Chicago Maps 287

Plan Your Trip 4

Explore Chicago 40

Transportation ............262

Directory A–Z ..............267

Index .............................274

Chicago Today ............ 234

History ......................... 236

Architecture ................ 244

Sports ...........................249

Chicago Dining ............252

Music & the Arts ..........255

The Loop ........................44

Near North & Navy Pier ........................67

Gold Coast .....................82

Lincoln Park & Old Town ........................96

Lake View & Wrigleyville ....................110

Andersonville & Uptown ......................... 126

Wicker Park, Bucktown & Ukrainian Village ......... 137

Logan Square & Humboldt Park ............ 153

Near West Side & Pilsen ............................ 164

South Loop & Near South Side.................... 178

Hyde Park & South Side.................... 192

Day Trips from Chicago ..........................206

Sleeping ..........................215

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Near West Side& Pilsen

Logan Square &Humboldt Park

Lincoln Park &Old Town

Hyde Park &South Side

Gold Coast

Lake View &Wrigleyville

South Loop &Near South Side

Andersonville& Uptown

Near North & Navy Pier

The Loop

Wicker Park,Bucktown &

Ukrainian Village

p110

p44

p126

p96

p67p82p137

p153

p178p164

p192

Photo by Clayton Hauck for Longman & Eagle

(free image no other metadata)

(left) Longman & Eagle p160 Savor a meal at this Michelin-starred tavern.

(above) Navy Pier p69 Stroll around Chicago’s most visited attraction.

(right) Ron Santo statue p113 Pay tribute at Wrigley Field.

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The Loop . . . . . . . . . . .44Top Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .46Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .54Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .58Drinking & Nightlife . . . . . . . 61Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . .62Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .64Sports & Activities . . . . . . . .65

Near North & Navy Pier . . . . . . . . . . . 67Top Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .69Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74Drinking & Nightlife . . . . . . . 78Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . . 78Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79Sports & Activities . . . . . . . .80

Gold Coast . . . . . . . . . . 82Top Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .84Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .86Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 87Drinking & Nightlife . . . . . . . 91Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . .93Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .93Sports & Activities . . . . . . . .95

Lincoln Park & Old Town . . . . . . . . . . . 96Top Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .98Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .99Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 103Drinking & Nightlife . . . . . .106Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . 107Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .108Sports & Activities . . . . . . .109

Lake View & Wrigleyville . . . . . . . . 110Top Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 112Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 116Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 116Drinking & Nightlife . . . . . . 119Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . 121Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 123Sports & Activities . . . . . . . 125

Andersonville & Uptown . . . . . . . . . . . . 126Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 128Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 129Drinking & Nightlife . . . . . . 134Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . 134Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 135Sports & Activities . . . . . . . 136

Wicker Park, Bucktown & Ukrainian Village . . . 137Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 139Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 142Drinking & Nightlife . . . . . . 146Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . 148Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 149

Logan Square & Humboldt Park . . . . . 153Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 155Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 155Drinking & Nightlife . . . . . . 161Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . 162Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 163

Near West Side & Pilsen . . . . . . . . . . . . . 164Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 166Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 171Drinking & Nightlife . . . . . . 175Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . 176Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 176Sports & Activities . . . . . . . 177

South Loop & Near South Side . . . . 178Top Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . .180Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 183Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 188Drinking & Nightlife . . . . . . 189Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . 189Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .190Sports & Activities . . . . . . . 191

Hyde Park & South Side . . . . . . . . . 192Top Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 194Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 196Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .201Drinking & Nightlife . . . . . 203Entertainment . . . . . . . . . 204Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 204Sports & Activities . . . . . . 204

Day Trips from Chicago . . . . . . . . . . .206Oak Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .207Indiana Dunes . . . . . . . . . . 209Milwaukee . . . . . . . . . . . . . .210Saugatuck & Douglas . . . . 212Galena . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 213

Sleeping . . . . . . . . . . . 215

Explore Chicago

40

Millennium Park ............... 46

Art Institute of Chicago ... 49

Willis Tower ........................ 51

Navy Pier ............................69

John Hancock Center ..... 84

Museum of Contemporary Art (MCA) ..........................85

Lincoln Park ...................... 98

Wrigley Field .....................112

Field Museum of Natural History ................180

Shedd Aquarium ..............181

Adler Planetarium & Astronomy Museum ......182

Robie House ....................194

Museum of Science & Industry ............................195

TOP SIGHTSCHICAGO’S

41

U-Bahn

CafeDrinking & Nightlife

Shopping

Entertainment

Eating

CampingSleeping

BuddhistCastleChristianHinduIslamicJewishMonumentMuseum/GalleryRuinWinery/VineyardZooOther Sight

BeachCanoeing/KayakingSkiingSurfingSwimming/PoolWalkingWindsurfingOther Sports &Activities

Diving/Snorkelling

Tourist InformationPost Office

Border CrossingBus

CyclingFerry

UndergroundTrain Station

MonorailParking

TaxiS-Bahn

Train/RailwayTramTube Station

Other Transport

Cable Car/Funicular

Airport

Walking TourDetour

Walking Tour

Path

Lane

Tertiary

Freeway

Primary

Steps

Plaza/Mall

PedestrianOverpass

Secondary

Unsealed Road

Tunnel

Tollway

Disputed

Regional/Suburb

Marine Park

Cliff

Wall

State/Province

InternationalCemetery(Christian)Cemetery (Other)Park/ForestSportsgroundSight (Building)Top Sight(Building)

Beach/Desert

Intermittent RiverSwamp/MangroveReefCanalWaterDry/Salt/Intermittent LakeGlacier

River/Creek

LighthouseLookoutMountain/VolcanoOasisParkPassPicnic AreaWaterfall

Hut/Shelter

Map Legend

AreasBoundaries

Hydrography

Geographic

Transport

Information

Drinking & Nightlife

Shopping

Entertainment

Eating

Sleeping

Sports & ActivitiesSights Routes

Chicago Maps

287

mAP INDEX1 The Loop (p290)

2 Near North (p292)

3 Navy Pier (p295)

4 Gold Coast (p296)

5 Lincoln Park & Old Town (p298)

6 Lake View & Wrigleyville (p302)

7 Andersonville & Uptown (p304)

8 Wicker Park, Bucktown & Ukrainian Village (p306)

9 Logan Square & Humboldt Park (p310)

10 Near West Side & Pilsen (p312)

11 South Loop & Near South Side (p316)

12 Hyde Park & South Side (p318)

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æ Top Sights (p46) ûDrinking & Nightlife (p61) þ Shopping (p64)1 Art Institute of Chicago.F5 44 Berghoff ......................... E5 62 5 S Wabash Ave ............ F42 Millennium Park ............G4 45 Cyrano's Cafe & 63 After School Matters3 Willis Tower ................... B5 Wine Bar.......................G1 Store.............................F2

46 Intelligentsia 64 Akira Footwear.............. E4æ Sights (p54) Coffee ...........................F3 65 Block 37.......................... E3

4 Aqua Tower ...................G2 47 Miller's Pub .................... E5 66 Central Camera............. E55 Auditorium Building.......F6 48 Plaza at Park Chicago Architecture6 Buckingham Fountain..H6 Grill................................F3 Foundation Shop.(see 8)7 Carbide & Carbon 49 Toni Patisserie & 67 Illinois Artisans Shop.... D2

Building ........................F2 Cafe...............................F3 68 Poster Plus..................... E58 Chicago Architecture Target ................... (see 30)

Foundation...................F5 ý Entertainment (p62)9 Chicago Board of Trade..D5 50 Auditorium Ø Sports & Activities (p65)

10 Chicago Cultural Theatre........................ F6 69 Bike Chicago..................G3Center...........................F3 51 Bank of America Chicago Architecture

11 Chicago Federal Theatre........................ E4 Foundation...........(see 8)Center...........................E5 52 Cadillac Palace 70 Chicago Greeter.............F3

12 Chicago Theatre ........... E2 Theatre........................C3 InstaGreeter ........ (see 70)13 Cloud Gate......................F3 Chicago Chamber 71 Maggie Daley Park........H314 Crown Fountain..............F4 Musicians...........(see 10) 72 Mercury Cruises............. F115 Daley Plaza ....................D3 Chicago Opera 73 Millennium Park16 Flamingo ........................ D5 Theater.............. (see 58) Workouts.....................G317 Four Seasons.................D4 Chicago 74 Urban Kayaks.................H118 Harold Washington Sinfonietta ........ (see 53)

Library Center ............ E6 53 Chicago ÿ Sleeping (p218)19 Kluczynski Building ...... D5 Symphony 75 Buckingham Athletic20 Marquette Building....... D5 Orchestra.....................F5 Club Hotel ...................D621 Marshall Field Building. E3 Chicago Theatre...(see 12) 76 Central Loop Hotel........ D522 Miró's Chicago .............. D3 Civic Orchestra Of 77 Fairmont.........................G223 Monadnock Building..... D5 Chicago ............. (see 53) 78 Hampton Majestic24 Money Museum ............ D5 54 Ford Chicago Theater25 Monument with Center/Oriental District......................... E4

Standing Beast........... D2 Theatre........................ E2 Hard Rock Hotel26 Reliance Building .......... E3 55 Gene Siskel Film Chicago ................(see 7)27 Riverwalk......................... F1 Center.......................... E2 HI-Chicago........... (see 33)28 Rookery.......................... D5 56 Goodman Hotel Allegro........ (see 33)29 Route 66 Sign.................F5 Theatre........................D2 Hotel Burnham.... (see 26)

Santa Fe Building...(see 8) 57 Grant Park 79 Hotel Monaco ................ E230 Sullivan Center.............. E4 Orchestra....................G3 80 Hyatt Regency31 Union Station................. A5 58 Harris Theater Chicago ........................G132 Untitled...........................D3 for Music 81 Palmer House Hilton .... E4

and Dance...................G3 82 Radisson Blu Aquaú Eating (p58) 59 Hot Tix .............................F2 Hotel ............................G2

33 Cafecito.......................... E6 Hubbard Street 83 Renaissance Chicago34 Do-Rite Donuts.............. D2 Dance Downtown Hotel......... E235 Falafill ..............................F5 Chicago ............. (see 58) 84 Silversmith..................... E436 French Market............... A3 International 85 Swissôtel Chicago..........H137 Gage.................................F4 Screenings 86 Virgin Hotel.................... E238 Native Foods Cafe ........ D5 Program .............(see 10) 87 W Chicago City Center. C539 Oasis................................F3 60 Joffrey Ballet ................. E2 88 Wit................................... E240 Pastoral...........................F2 61 Lyric Opera Of 89 Wyndham Blake41 Pizano's...........................F4 Chicago .......................B3 Chicago .......................D642 Trattoria No 10.............. D3 Music Of The43 Westminster Hot Dog... C3 Baroque............. (see 58)

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æ Sights (p72) 41 House of Blues............................................ D5 1 Chicago Spire..............................................H5 42 Howl At The Moon...................................... D5 2 Driehaus Museum.......................................E3 43 Underground Wonder Bar.........................C3 3 Holy Name Cathedral.................................D2 4 Judy A Saslow Gallery................................B2 þ Shopping (p79) 5 Magnificent Mile..........................................E3 44 Abraham Lincoln Book Shop.................... A2 6 Marina City ..................................................D6 AllSaints ............................................ (see 52) 7 Merchandise Mart ......................................B5 45 Apple Store ................................................. E3 8 Museum of Broadcast 46 Burberry ...................................................... E3 Communications .....................................D5 47 Crate & Barrel............................................. E3 9 Poetry Foundation......................................C3 48 Garrett Popcorn ......................................... E4 10 Richard Norton Gallery ..............................B5 49 Jazz Record Mart ....................................... D5 11 The Project Room.......................................B3 50 Nike Chicago............................................... E3 12 Tribune Tower.............................................E5 51 Shops At North Bridge .............................. E4 13 Wrigley Building ..........................................E5 52 Zara .............................................................. E3

ú Eating (p74) Ø Sports & Activities (p80) 14 Bandera........................................................E4 53 Bobby's Bike Hike.......................................G5 15 Billy Goat Tavern.........................................E5 54 Untouchable Gangster Tours ...................C4 16 Cafe Iberico .................................................C2 55 Weird Chicago Tours .................................C4 17 Chicago Chop House..................................C3 56 Wendella Boats........................................... E5 18 Eggsperience...............................................D4 19 Gene & Georgetti ........................................B4 ÿ Sleeping (p221) 20 Gino's East...................................................F2 57 Acme Hotel..................................................D4 21 Giordano's....................................................E2 58 Allerton Hotel.............................................. E3 Graham Elliot...................................... (see 11) 59 Aloft Chicago City Center..........................C4 22 Green Door Tavern .....................................A3 60 Amalfi Hotel Chicago ................................. D5 23 Lou Malnati's ...............................................B5 61 Avenue Crowne Plaza Hotel.......................F3 24 Mr Beef.........................................................A3 62 Best Western River North .........................C4 NoMi ...................................................(see 80) 63 Chicago Marriott Hotel.............................. E4 25 Paris Club.....................................................C5 64 Doubletree Magnificent Mile.....................G4 26 Pizzeria Uno.................................................D4 65 Embassy Suites Chicago – Downtown....D4 27 Portillo's .......................................................C3 66 Embassy Suites Chicago – Lakefront .....G4 28 Purple Pig.....................................................E4 67 Four Points Chicago Downtown............... E3 29 Shaw's Crab House ....................................D5 68 Hampton Inn & Suites Chicago 30 Sunda ...........................................................C4 Downtown ................................................ D5 31 Topolobampo/Frontera 69 Hilton Garden Inn .......................................D4 Grill.............................................................C5 70 Hotel Cass ...................................................D3 32 Tru................................................................. F3 71 Hotel Felix....................................................C3 33 Xoco..............................................................C5 72 Hotel Palomar.............................................D4

73 Howard Johnson Inn.................................. C3 û Drinking & Nightlife (p78) 74 Inn Of Chicago ............................................ F4 34 Brehon Pub..................................................B2 75 InterContinental Chicago.......................... E4 35 Clark Street Ale House...............................C2 76 Ivy Hotel....................................................... F4 36 Dollop .......................................................... G4 77 James........................................................... E4 37 Sound-Bar....................................................B3 78 Langham Hotel ........................................... D5 Terrace At Trump Tower.................(see 83) 79 Ohio House Motel.......................................C4 38 Watershed ...................................................D4 80 Park Hyatt ................................................... E2

81 Peninsula..................................................... E2 ý Entertainment (p78) 82 Red Roof Inn.................................................F3 39 Andy's...........................................................D5 83 Trump Hotel & Tower ................................ E5 40 Blue Chicago ...............................................C4 84 W Chicago Lakeshore................................H3

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Art ........................................E7 25 Zebra Lounge........................C4

æ Sights (p86) þ Shopping (p93)3 Archbishop's Residence ..... C2 26 900 N Michigan ....................D64 Charnley-Persky House ...... C3 Alternatives ................. (see 26)5 City Gallery ............................D7 American Girl Place....(see 36)6 Cyrus McCormick Mansion C2 27 Barneys New York................C57 International Museum of Best Buy..........................(see 1)

Surgical Science ............... C2 28 Burton Snowboards.............C58 Newberry Library................. B6 29 Flight 001 ...............................C49 Original Playboy Mansion... C3 30 H&M .......................................D6

10 Washington Square............. B6 31 Hershey's...............................D7Water Tower.................. (see 5) 32 Jil Sander...............................C5

33 Jimmy Choo ..........................D5ú Eating (p87) Lego Store ................... (see 36)

Foodlife.........................(see 36) 34 Open Books........................... A711 Francesca's on Chestnut.....E6 35 TopShop ................................D612 Gibson's .................................C5 36 Water Tower Place ...............D613 Hendrickx Belgian Bread

Crafter .................................D5 Ø Sports & Activities (p95)14 Le Colonial .............................C5 37 Oak St Beach.........................D515 Mike Ditka's Restaurant...... D616 Morton's.................................C5 ÿ Sleeping (p225)17 Pizano's................................. C6 38 Drake Hotel............................D518 PJ Clarke's ............................ C4 39 Flemish House ......................D5

Signature Room At The 40 Gold Coast Guest House .....B495th ..............................(see 1) 41 Hotel Indigo ...........................B4

19 Sprinkles Cupcakes..............C5 42 Oak 112 ...................................B520 Tempo Cafe .......................... C6 Public............................ (see 22)

43 Raffaello Chicago.................. E6ûDrinking & Nightlife (p91) 44 Residence Inn By

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ý Entertainment (p93) 47 Westin Michigan Avenue .....D6Back Room .................. (see 14) 48 Whitehall Hotel......................D6

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æ Top Sights (p98) 35 Old Town Ale House................................... F61 Lincoln Park.................................................G5 36 Rose's Lounge .............................................C1

37 Weeds ..........................................................D6æ Sights (p99)

2 Alfred Caldwell Lily Pool............................. F3 ý Entertainment (p107)3 Biograph Theater........................................D2 38 Apollo Theater ............................................ C24 Chicago History Museum .......................... F5 39 BLUES..........................................................D25 Couch Mausoleum...................................... F5 Emerald City Theatre6 DePaul Art Museum ...................................C3 Company ........................................ (see 38)7 Farm-in-the-Zoo ......................................... F4 40 Facets Multimedia...................................... A38 Green City Market....................................... F5 41 Kingston Mines........................................... D29 Lincoln Park Conservatory........................ F3 42 Lincoln Hall..................................................C2

10 Lincoln Park Zoo ......................................... F3 43 Royal George Theatre................................ D511 Peggy Notebaert Nature Museum ........... F2 44 Second City..................................................F512 St Valentine's Day Massacre Site.............E3 45 Second City Etc .......................................... F613 Standing Lincoln Sculpture.......................G5 46 Steppenwolf Theatre ................................. D5

47 Theater on the Lake...................................G2ú Eating (p103) 48 UP Comedy Club ........................................ F6

14 Alinea............................................................D5 Victory Gardens Theater....................(see 3)15 Aloha Eats....................................................E2 Weeds Poetry Night......................... (see 37)16 Balena...........................................................D5 49 Zanies........................................................... F617 Bistrot Margot.............................................F618 Boka..............................................................D5 þ Shopping (p108)19 Bourgeois Pig ..............................................D2 50 Apple Store .................................................D620 Cafe Ba-Ba-Reeba!.....................................D4 51 Barker & Meowsky.....................................C421 Floriole Cafe.................................................B3 52 Crossroads Trading Co ..............................D122 La Fournette ................................................F6 53 Dave's Records............................................D123 Old Jerusalem .............................................F6 54 Gramaphone Records ................................D124 Patio at Cafe Brauer................................... F4 55 Greenheart Shop.........................................F525 Pequod's Pizza............................................A3 56 Lori's, The Sole Of Chicago.......................D426 RJ Grunts .....................................................F4 57 Rotofugi ........................................................B127 Salpicon ....................................................... F7 58 Spice House ................................................ F628 Twin Anchors...............................................E5 59 Vosges Haut-Chocolat...............................C429 Via Carducci ................................................A330 Wiener's Circle ............................................ D1 Ø Sports & Activities (p109)

60 Diversey Driving Range .............................. F1ûDrinking & Nightlife (p106) 61 North Ave Beach ........................................H5

31 Alive One ...................................................... D132 Delilah's........................................................ C1 ÿ Sleeping (p227)33 Goose Island Brewery ................................C5 62 Chicago Getaway Hostel ...........................D234 J Parker ........................................................ F5 Hotel Lincoln ..................................... (see 34)

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æ Top Sights (p112) 35 Beat Kitchen................................................ A51 Wrigley Field ................................................ F3 36 Brew & View .................................................F5

37 Comedysportz............................................ G5æ Sights (p116) 38 iO Theater.................................................... F4

2 Alta Vista Terrace ....................................... F2 39 Katerina's .....................................................B13 Boystown .....................................................H5 40 Laugh Factory Chicago..............................H5

41 Martyrs' ....................................................... B2ú Eating (p116) 42 Metro............................................................ E3

4 Andy's Thai Kitchen.................................... F6 43 Music Box Theatre ..................................... D35 Chicago Diner............................................. G4 44 Schubas....................................................... D56 Chilam Balam............................................. H6 Wrigley Field......................................... (see 1)7 Clark Street Dog ........................................ G68 Crisp ............................................................ H6 þ Shopping (p123)9 Falafill ...........................................................H5 45 Alley..............................................................G5

10 HB ................................................................ G4 46 Belmont Army Surplus ..............................G511 Mia Francesca .............................................G5 47 Brown Elephant Resale Shop ...................G312 Penny's Noodle Shop................................. F4 48 Chicago Comics...........................................F513 Tango Sur ....................................................D2 49 Egoist Underwear.......................................G314 Victory's Banner .........................................A4 50 Gay Mart ......................................................G415 Village Tap ...................................................A4 51 Midwest Stereo........................................... C516 Yoshi's Cafe.................................................G5 52 Sports World................................................F3

53 Strange Cargo............................................. F4ûDrinking & Nightlife (p119) 54 Threadless...................................................H6

17 Bar Pastoral................................................ H6 55 Unabridged Bookstore ..............................H518 Berlin ............................................................ F5 56 Uncle Dan's .................................................D319 Closet ...........................................................H5 57 Uncle Fun..................................................... D520 Duke of Perth...............................................H7 58 Windward Sports.........................................F521 Gingerman Tavern......................................E3 59 Yesterday .................................................... E322 Globe Pub .................................................... A123 Guthrie's.......................................................E3 Ø Sports & Activities (p125)24 Hydrate ....................................................... G4 Chicago Cubs....................................... (see 1)25 L&L................................................................G5 60 Rink at Wrigley............................................ E326 Murphy's Bleachers.................................... F3 61 Sydney R Marovitz Golf Course ...............H227 Sidetrack..................................................... G428 Sluggers ....................................................... F3 ÿ Sleeping (p227)

Smart Bar ..........................................(see 42) 62 Best Western Hawthorne29 Southport Lanes .........................................D5 Terrace .....................................................H430 Spin...............................................................G5 63 City Suites Hotel..........................................F531 Ten Cat Tavern............................................C2 64 Days Inn Lincoln Park North .....................H7

65 Majestic Hotel.............................................H3ý Entertainment (p121) 66 Old Chicago Inn ...........................................F5

32 About Face Theatre....................................H5 67 Villa Toscana...............................................G433 American Theater Company.....................B2 68 Willows Hotel ..............................................H734 Annoyance Theatre....................................G5 69 Wrigley Hostel............................................. F4

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W Nelson St

NR

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W Fletcher St

W Melrose St

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W Waveland Ave

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Key on p301

DCorn Productions (0.1mi);Half Acre Tap Room (0.1mi);Lincoln Square (0.4mi)

D ArchitecturalArtifacts (0.3mi)

D

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D

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DDiversey-River Bowl (0.1mi)

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304

ANDERSO

NvILLE & UPTOw

NANDERSONVILLE & UPTOWNæ Sights (p128) 22 Tweet ...........................................................D4

1 Argyle Night Market ...................................C42 Argyle Street ...............................................C4 ûDrinking & Nightlife (p134)3 Essanay Studios..........................................B4 23 Atmosphere ................................................ A24 Graceland Cemetery..................................C7 24 Big Chicks....................................................D45 Swedish American 25 Crew ............................................................. C5

Museum ....................................................A3 26 Hamburger Mary's ..................................... A227 Simon's ........................................................ A3

ú Eating (p129) 28 SoFo Tap ..................................................... A46 Acre ..............................................................A27 Andie's..........................................................A2 ý Entertainment (p134)8 Ba Le Bakery ...............................................C4 29 Black Ensemble9 Big Jones......................................................A2 Theater ..................................................... A7

10 Edgewater Lounge...................................... A1 30 Carol's Pub ..................................................B611 First Slice .....................................................A2 31 Green Mill .................................................... C512 Hai Yen .........................................................D4 32 Neo-Futurists.............................................. A313 Hopleaf.........................................................A3 Paper Machete .................................. (see 31)14 Icosium Kafe................................................A3 Uptown Poetry Slam.........................(see 31)15 Jin Ju.............................................................A316 Kopi, A Traveler's Cafe...............................A2 þ Shopping (p135)17 Sunshine Cafe ............................................. A1 33 Alamo Shoes............................................... A218 Swedish Bakery ..........................................A2 34 Andersonville Galleria................................ A219 Tank Noodle ................................................C4 35 Early To Bed................................................D320 Thai Pastry...................................................C4 36 Scout............................................................ A321 Tiztal Cafe....................................................B6 37 Women & Children First ............................ A3

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LDT PARkLOGAN SQUARE & HUMBOLDT PARKæ Sights (p155) 17 California Clipper........................................ C7

1 Busy Beaver Button Museum...................B4 18 Cole's ...........................................................C32 Humboldt Park............................................B6 19 Quenchers Saloon...................................... D23 Illinois Centennial Memorial Column.......B2 20 Revolution Brewing.................................... C34 Institute of Puerto Rican Arts and 21 Scofflaw.......................................................B4

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10 Fat Rice ........................................................ C1 27 Whistler........................................................C211 Feed..............................................................C712 Longman & Eagle........................................ B1 þ Shopping (p163)13 Lula Cafe ......................................................B2 28 City Lit Books.............................................. B214 Reno..............................................................B2 29 Logan Hardware.........................................D215 Yusho............................................................ B1 30 Wolfbait & B-Girls....................................... B2

ûDrinking & Nightlife (p161) ÿ Sleeping (p230)16 Billy Sunday.................................................B2 Longman & Eagle ..............................(see 12)

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319

Karla ZimmermanCoordinating Author Karla lives in Chicago, where she has been eating deep-dish pizza (Giordano’s preferred) and cheering on the hopeless Cubs for 25 years. Like most Chicagoans, she’s more than a little keen on her home town and will talk your ear off about its sky-high architecture, rockin’ music scene, global neighborhoods and character-filled dive bars. Come wintertime, the words she uses get a bit more colorful, especially if she’s just shoveled a lot

of snow. Karla writes travel features for books, magazines and online outlets. She has authored or coauthored several Lonely Planet guidebooks covering the USA, Canada, the Caribbean and Europe. For more on the Windy City, see Karla’s blog, www.mykindoftownandaround.blogspot.com, or follow @karlazimmerman on Twitter. Karla wrote the Plan Your Trip and Explore sections, and the Chicago Today, History, Transportation and Directory chapters.

Sara BensonBorn in Illinois, Sara grew up around the Windy City. She cycled beside Lake Michigan, begged her parents for money to make Mold-a-Rama models at the Museum of Science & Industry and eventually graduated from the University of Chicago. The author of 55 travel and nonfiction books, Sara toured skyscrapers in the Loop, chowed down on Midwestern charcuterie and listened to scores of Cubs games while researching and writing this guide. Follow her adventures

online at www.indietraveler.blogspot.com and @indie_traveler on Twitter. Sara wrote the Architecture, Sports, Chicago Dining and Music & the Arts chapters.

Read more about Karla at: lonelyplanet.com/members/karlazimmerman

Read more about Sara at: lonelyplanet.com/members/sara_benson

Our Writers

Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reason-able care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxi-mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.

Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty LtdABN 36 005 607 9837th edition – Feb 2014ISBN 978 1 74220 061 3© Lonely Planet 2014 Photographs © as indicated 201410 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in ChinaAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

Our StoryA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.

Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Melbourne, London and Oakland, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

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Neighborhoods at a Glance

42

1 The Loop p44The Loop is Chicago’s center of action, named for the elevated train tracks that lasso its streets. The Art Institute, Willis Tower, Theater District and Millennium Park are top draws among the skyscrapers.

2 Near North & Navy Pier p67The Near North packs in hotels, deep-dish pizza parlors, art galleries and so many up-scale stores that its main vein – Michigan Ave – has been dubbed the ‘Magnificent Mile.’ Navy Pier unfurls a half-mile-long wharf of tour boats and carnival rides.

3 Gold Coast p82Furs and Rolls Royces are de rigueur in the Gold Coast. By day the cloud-poking Han-cock Center and provocative Museum of Contemporary Art beckon. At night, Rush Street entertains with swanky steakhouses and piano lounges.

4 Lincoln Park & Old Town p96Lincoln Park is a sprawling lakefront oasis of ponds, paths, beaches and zoo animals. Next door, stylish Old Town hangs on to its free-spirited past with artsy bars and im-prov comedy bastion Second City.

5 Lake View & Wrigleyville p110Wrigley Field, both cursed and hallowed, draws baseball pilgrims. The bar-filled neighborhood around it parties hard and collides with the rainbow banners of Boys-town, the nearby gay district. Kicky eater-ies and shops cater to the masses.

6 Andersonville & Uptown p126Vestiges of Andersonville’s Swedish past remain, but today the area is about foodie taverns, funky boutiques and gay and lesbian bars. Uptown offers historic jazz houses, such

as the Green Mill (Al Capone’s fave), along with the thriving eateries of ‘Little Saigon.’

7 Wicker Park, Bucktown & Ukrainian Village p137These three neighborhoods are hot prop-erty. Hipster record stores, thrift shops and cocktail lounges have shot up, though vintage Eastern European dive bars linger on many street corners. The restaurant and rock club scene is unparalleled.

8 Logan Square & Humboldt Park p153Weenie-maker Hot Doug’s, heavy-metal burger bar Kuma’s and Michelin-starred Longman & Eagle bring gastronomes to Logan Square. Puerto Rican stronghold Humboldt Park is the place to sample a jibarito, the local sandwich specialty.

9 Near West Side & Pilsen p164The meat-packing West Loop buzzes with hot-chef restaurants and the hippest art galleries. Greektown and Little Italy serve ethnic fare nearby. In Pilsen, Mexican cul-ture mixes with Chicago’s bohemian under-ground, and colorful murals, taquerias and cafes result.

a South Loop & Near South Side p178In the South Loop, the Field Museum, Shedd Aquarium and Adler Planetarium huddle at the Museum Campus. Historic buildings dot the area, including Chess Records, the seminal blues label. Chinatown bustles with noodle shops and exotic wares.

b Hyde Park & South Side p192Brainy Hyde Park holds bookstores galore and sights such as Frank Lloyd Wright’s Robie House and the Museum of Science & Industry. Irish enclave Bridgeport has blossomed with bars and galleries, while Bronzeville has architecture and jazzy black-history shrines.

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