Lei Zhang‘s Writing

Great storytellers in design, like Ron Arad, Ross Lovegrove and Marcel Wanders

make the world smile. Wish drops of my thoughts could also make people think

with smiles, as there is always a story to be told, a form to be discovered, a

question to be asked…

ARTICLE

� Fashion Photography

� Contemporary Accessory

� Fashion Illustration

� Conceptual Fashion

� Fashion column

Photos copyright Todd Selby

Photo Source: www.theselby.com

He enjoyed playing with the reader’s vision and imagination and

Todd Selby, through his lens, is doing almost the same thing. As a

portrait, interior, and fashion photographer and illustrator, he travels

around looking for those dynamic and creative people—authors,

musicians, artists, and designers—and starts his voyage in their

personal spaces. He quietly observes his subjects and their objects,

capturing moves and energy when he senses them coming to

the fore.

If you have ever visited his website www.theselby.com, you will

know what I am saying. Named by Time magazine as one of top

100 design influencers, you wont just view his watercolor portraits

or the illustrated questionnaires he asks his sitters to fill in, but

also be charmed by the eye hungrily searching for beauty and the

personality and style sparkling behind the objects.

As readers, all we hope is Todd Selby ‘s journey could go on and

on, as “there’s no more attractive pleasure,…than following one’s

ideas wherever they lead.”

As Xavier de Maistre, the French writer traveled through

his room, he looked at every piece of furniture, every

engraving as if he was voyaging through a strange land.

In effect, he turned the ordinary, extraordinary.

彼は観る者の視点と想像力をもて遊んで楽しんでいるようだったが、Todd Selbyも彼のレンズを通してほとんど同じことをしている。 ポートレート/インテリア/ファッションフォトグラファー、それにイラストレーターとして、Todd Selbyは作家、音楽家、芸術家、デザイナーなどのダイナミックで創造的な人々を探し出しては、彼らのプライベート空間で彼自身の旅を始めるのである。 彼は静かに対象者とその対象物を観察し、それらを前にして感じる動きとエネルギーを捕える。 彼のウェブサイトwww.theselby.comを覗いたことがあるひとなら、私が何を言っているかについて理解できるであろう。 インディペンデントによりトップ100の有力デザイナーの一人に挙げられるように、彼の水彩の肖像画やイラスト入りのアンケートに記入するように付き人に言っている彼をただ視野に納める以外に、貪欲に美を捜し求めている眼、個性、対象物の陰にきらめく手法に魅せられるだろう。 「いったいどこへ導かれるのかとその着想を追いかける以上の魅力的な喜びはない」と、読者として私達はTodd Selby の旅がずっと続くことを願う。

部屋を旅するフランス人ライター、Xavier de Maistreはあたかも彼が見知らぬ土地を旅しているかのように室内のあらゆる家具や装飾品を丹念に見まわした。 実際、彼は通常あるものを特異なものへと転化させていた。

Voyage Around the Room

Meeting with Fashion photographer Todd Selby

Words by Lei ZhangTranslated by Fusako

部屋の旅---ファッションフォトグラファーTodd Selbyとの出会い

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When you view Bela Borsodi’s work you’re always going to feel

something. And more often than not it won’t just be a smile, or even

a “wow!” but something more like “wait a sec, let me look at that

again.” Among the Austrian born still life fashion

photographer’s portfolio, you will find ordinary

things; clothes, shoes, irons, lamps, paper,

transformed and melded until they become lost

and faded into something bigger, their nature

taking on a wholly secondary, almost subcons-

cious role, but one of essential importance. I

guess it’s like breathing.

To get the most fun out of Bela’s works, you’d better learn to

forget what things are supposed to be and just enjoy whatever they

ベラ　ボーソディの作品を見て何も感じない者はいないだろう。彼の写真をちらっと目にして、ただ微笑む、というよりは、「ちょっと待った、もう一回見せて！」と言うことの方が多いはずだ。現役のオーストリア出身のファッションフォトグラファーたちの作品集にみられるものの中で、日常生活品である洋服、靴、アイロン、ランプ、紙などといったものが、本来の姿からすっかり変貌し、全く別の、もっとスケールの大きなものに変形をとげている、といったかわった写真がある。このような作品の中で、これらの日常品たちは、本来持つ機能からすっかり離れ、生命をもった、まるで息をしているかのような新しい印象を我々に与えてくれる。 ベラの写真を十分楽しむためには、ある物体の本来の用途や特色は一切忘れ、新しい目線で見る感覚を持つべきである。そうすることによって、

bring. Once you stand back and let your perception play you’ll see

these everyday things take on a new life, and maybe get a glimpse

of the, “hey, shoot me,” calling which so strongly beckons to Bela.

With a great interest in psychology and fluency

in the conversation of art and graphic design;

he creates a crucial balance in his pictures

where the transience of memory allows the

observer to see, play, then see again. No

matter who you are, the creator or viewer,

never take what you see for granted or you’ll

lose out on the fluidity of a roving imagination

and all the fun that comes with it. And that’s what I learnt from him.

普段何気なく我々がつかっているものたちが、もっと生き生きした新鮮なものとして目に映るのではないだろうか。ベラ自身の視点にそれらの物が、刺激を投げかけているように。 心理学に深い興味を持ち、芸術、グラフィックデ ザイン関連の会話に流暢であるベラは、自身の 写真の中できわめて重要なバランスを生み出し、 ほんの一瞬の記憶が見るものを遊び感覚に導き 何度も同じ写真を見ずにはいられなくさせてしま うのだ。我々が、写真を見る立場であるか、撮る側 であるかはどうであれ、大切なのは、日々我々の目に飛び込んでくる物体を当たり前の感覚でとらえてばかりいては、想像することや、幻想にひたって楽しむことを忘れてしまう、ということなのである。そして、このことが、まさにベラが教えてくれたことでもあるのだ。

BELA BORSODI TAUGHT METhe first glance: funny!

The second glance: smart!

The third…hey, wait a minute…

To get the most fun out of

Bela’s works, you’d better

learn to forget what things

are supposed to be and just

enjoy whatever they bring.

ベラの写真を十分楽しむためには、ある物体の本来の用途や特色は一切忘れ、新しい目線で見る感覚を持つべきである。

第一印象：面白い！第二印象：かしこい！第三印象：ちょっと、待て！

ベラボーソディの教え“While you were out” first published in City Magazine 2005 “Fashion Faces” 2010 client: yalook.com, advertising agency: Futurebrand

This latest Autumn/Winter 2010 collec-tion from FMN sees Coco’s inspiration stem from the myths and legends which have captured mankind’s imagination across centuries, the sea goddess Calypso, Morphesu and the snow nymph. Dreamlike and surreal illustrations blend harmoniously with unique geometrical abstractions. Such balance has been created so that the co-star winged crea-tures and fantastical beings appearing on each design fail to hog the limelight

最近のFMNでの2010年秋/冬コレクションでは、ココの作品がギリシャ神話などに登場するキャラクター、女王カリプソ、モルフェス、雪の精霊などファンタシー感覚溢れるテーマからインスピレーションを受けている様子が見受けられた。これらの作品に見られる夢幻的なイメージは、幾何学的スタイルと巧くブレンドされており、すべての幻想キャラクターがバランスよく浮き彫りにされていた。更に注目すべきポイントは、海の色を描くブルー、くすんだピンク、濃厚なグレー、そして深夜を思わせる

Forget Me Not CocoWords by Lei ZangPhotos by http://cocopit.biz/ and www.forget-me-not.me

In this F Empire there are too many geniuses, and their unstopped creativeness keeps challenging our imaginations. For insiders, it might be a movable feast, but for the rest of us innocent victims, fashion victims of course, it’s a cold and sweet spell whispering “Dare you forget me.” Coco, a French graphic artist simply launched her inspiring accessories brand Forget-Me-Not and her name became unforgettable.

Like what you see? Go to http://shop.forget-me-not.me/ to make a purchase or email sales@en-vie-fashion.com for assistance in making your purchase through English.

ここ「F帝国」フランスには天才に匹敵する人々であふれており、彼らの果てしないクリエイティブパワーは我々の持つ創造力にいつも挑戦状をたたきつけてくる。業界の者にすれば、このクリエイティビティー戦争はまるで、宗教上の祝い事のような華やかなものなのだろうが、ファッションの虜として外側にたたされている我々にとっては「あなたに私のことを忘れることができて？」と冷たく囁かれているようなものだ。フランス出身のココ。グラフィックアーティストでもあった彼女の生み出すアクセサリーはとてもユニークで、やがては自己ブランド、「 Forget-Me-Not （私を忘れないで）」を立ち上げることになった。そして瞬く間にそのブランド名の通り、彼女の名は我々にとって忘れがたいものとなっていったのだ。

32 33

商品注文に関しては、http://shop.forget-me-not.me/　英語による商品注文に関するお問い合わせのメールは、sales@en-vie-fashion.com まで

Translated by Satomi H. satomihino@gmail.com

of the gylphs. What’s more, the use of the palette of ocean blues, dusty pinks, rich grey and midnight black is also very impressive. In short, each design in this collection is not only very wearable but also stunningly artistic. With the great success of this collec-tion, Coco is sure to continue looking for muses to surprise us in her own way while we take a breath and whisper back, “bewitch us again.”

ような黒といったカラーを巧みに扱う彼女のセンスだろう。このコレクションに登場した彼女の作品は、ただ身につけるアクセサリーだけではなく、優れた芸術作品としても特筆されるべきなのだ。 このコレクションでの成功によって、今後、彼女が更なる自己の創造力で我々をあっといわせてくれることは間違いないだろう。そして我々は、彼女にこうささやくのだ。「私たちをもっと魅了して」

私を忘れないで Coco

So what’s in his mind when he’s designing the silver mould for each jewel? Perhaps he’s inspired by a less is more philosophy and an understanding that complicated beings like ourselves are often soothed by simplicity. Perhaps at the moment he finishes adding a piece of earth in each tiny “flower pot” and carefully places micro moss gardens on top, he imagines himself sitting alone in a Japanese moss garden. Such a scene allures us with its subtle shades of green, accented here and there with a rock, a bamboo fountain or an occasional small flowering shrub. Because that’s the place he takes us to with his unique jewellery.

Many of us don’t have the time or commitment to diligently tend to gardens, much like our relationships. But watering a growing jewellery once every 5 weeks could be a fresh start. We might be impatient, fickle and lustful in life but we also understand that passion and commitment can reward us with a meaningful and sustainable relationship. Having said all that, eco-friendly jewellery might not be as hot of an eco-statement as the 2007 global sell out, “I am not a plastic bag” tote bag. However, growing a tiny garden on your toes will definitely make your life a little bit different.

ACCESSORIES

‘Growing Jewellery’Icelandic Moss Rings by HAF

私だけの苔庭を！

When Icelandic product designer, Hafsteinn Júlíusson, goes to work, he doesn’t have to fight his way through a crowded train like most of us. His mind isn’t racing between nagging projects. He’s not grinding out a hectic week so he can lose himself at the end of it. He’s creating jewellery, ‘Growing Jewellery’ to be precise.

Words by Lei ZhangPhotos by http://www.hafsteinnjuliusson.com/

When we pick up these delicately crafted pieces of jewellery, we might not understand moss gardens in all their eco-logical and physiological glory, but we feel relaxed and lost in contemplation when we look at them.

Like what you see? Go to http://www.hafsteinnjuliusson.com/store/ to make a purchase or email sales@en-vie-fashion.com for assistance in making your purchase through English.

I Have a Moss Garden!

That was my first instinct on seeing more

than 300 jewelry pieces displayed on the

website of Nervous System, a design studio

found by MIT graduates Jessica Rosenkrantz

and Jesse Louis-Rosentberg. Unless one

happened to be a scientist or have thick

textbooks on hand it was hard to tell what

they even were.

“We’ve had people walk by our stuff and say,

‘Eww...that looks like a bacterial petri dish.’

When the accessories become organic…

Nervous System—MIT grads’ jewelry collection

Words by Lei Zhang

Photos courtesy of http://n-e-r-v-o-u-s.com/

We have also had people say, ‘Wow, that

looks amazingly like bacteria.’ Some of the

pieces we make do have a bit of a disgusting

quality to them because they do remind us

of nature, which is very messy.” The young

designers said.

Bacterial? Well if you want the science, more

specifically, they are dendritic clusters,

honeycombed radiolaras, and branching

coral formations. Attracted to complex and

unconventional geometries, the co-founders

intended to reveal the diversity of copying

and reinventing nature and to open up new

perspectives with the new technology. Such

innovative thinking may not cause a surprise

to product design industry pioneers such as

Ross Lovegrove and Ron Arad who always

found nature an endless source of inspiration

for design. However, in the world of jewelry,

it might just mean that Organic Design will

become the latest trend.

When a jewelry design studio looks like a NASA space lab, there must be something

big happening or about to happen in the industry.

Attracted to complex and

unconventional geometries, the

co-founders intended to reveal

the diversity of copying and

reinventing nature and to open

up new perspectives with the

new technology.

38

For their Nervous System collection, they not

only grow their stunning creations with organic

inspiration but also plant their organic thinking

into the creative process, by using Processing,

the open-source software. It produces a

myriad of distinct creations while at the same

time it also allows visitors to join in the fun

by designing their own piece. In the end they

claim to have “made no definitive, final product

but the many designs that are created allow

for mass customization.” Once a product

itself is finished the design system means

it could keep growing and updating itself,

even evolving, which basically turns it into an

Organic Design. As for the Nervous System,

it might be just a brand new beginning for

truly organic jewelry.

To some extent, we should be thankful for the

designers having science and architecture

backgrounds, instead of jewelry training, or

we could simply be happy with wearing dry

vegetables or flowers hanging around our

neck. What’s more, if we are lucky enough,

we might just witness new possibilities

happening in the industry of jewelery design.

If we have evolved new instincts to appreciate

it by then…

“We have made no definitive,

final product but the many

designs that are created allow

for mass customization.”

Do you love this collection too? Go to http://n-e-r-v-o-u-s.com/ to see more!

3000 meters below is the

maldives. rest ing on the

blue-green Indian ocean, small

islands shaped like the shell of a

sea tur t le, seemingly swimming

towards me with its hundreds

of years of pat ience and grace.

years later,

i t is Jiro Kamata's lenses that

represent the unforget table

scene, once again touching

me just l ike the moment I was

looking through the plane

window.

J i ro Kamata is not a photographer,

but a Japanese-born, Germany-

based jewelr y des igner. However,

his enthusiasm about lenses is by no

means less than any photographer.

Not because he only uses old lenses

to create h is works but because he

unleashes the potential values of old

lenses to spark v iewers or jewel r y

wearers’ imaginat ions. In h is mind,

the camera lens is not merely a cold

obser ver but a memory co l lector,

which keeps the gamut of fee l ings

wr i t ten on the human face, the

beauty of the ear th and sk ies that

man has inher i ted, and the weal th

and confusion that man has created.

Those old lenses, Kamata bel ieves,

a l l to ld own the i r par t icu la r s tor y.

“O ld lenses used in my jewe l r y

probab ly have been w i th some

peop le fo r many years, w i tnessed

how the i r fami l y changed, o r

were perhaps used to catch great

h istor ica l moments l ike the reunion

of East and West Germany,” Kamata

explained. ›

Jiro kamata's ContemPorary Jewelrytex t / lE i Photography / J iRO K AMAtA

maldives & shady Pendant

accessoriesEn Vie

28

“Behind lenses, you never know

what has ever happened, and that`s

what I think makes a piece of jewelry

truly valuable.”

When Kamata found the o ld lenses

to have a un ique va lue, such as

c lass ica l gramophone records. As

his admirer, I might f ind another way

to en joy h is works, that is, through

his lenses. I saw a dif ferent world. At

f i rs t s ight of h is co l lect ion, “Shady

Pendant”, i t reminded me of an

amazing sea v iew of the Mald ives,

only more expressive and romantic.

However, as the name suggested,

those tur tle shel l- l ike is lands turned

out to be f l icker ing shadows of

trees.

I t is qu i te interest ing to rea l ize that

the wor ld could be read in so many

ways i f we just change the place we

stand or pay fu l l at tent ion to what

we see, be i t i l lusions or ref lections.

As long as we are tru ly look ing,

whether wi th eyes, a monocle on

the nose, the lens of a camera in

your hands, or the images Kamata

has created, we may see the whole

wor ld in even a t iny gra in of sand,

just as J i ro Kamata found stor ies

through his lenses.

Who would have thought ‘coloured pencils’ could

turn out to be such an interesting accessory idea.

In Maria’s hands, the dull roughness of ordinary

pencils is rounded into a simple, pure form.

What’s more impressive, the polished shapes of

leads are full of dynamic changes and energy.

Thanks to Maria, everyday stuff that’s rarely used

as accessories, naturally comes into our view,

decorating our imagination with vivid colour. Since

Felissimo relanuched 500 colour pencils in 2009,

Maria’s hands have been busy. Just as the slogan

of Felissimo says, “Spark your imagination 500

times over. Together, the colors suggest infinite

possibilities.”

‘Colored pencils’, we welcome you!

Can you tell us a little bit about your work

history?

For several years I worked as theatre costume and

accessories maker, creating also a wide range

of jewellery for stage use. I developed a strong

interest for contemporary jewellery and I dedicated

myself to it. What characterized my early work

was the use of very thin metal sheets and wires,

experimenting with hollowness and fullness. In

later work, I started using even thinner metal

sheets, as if working with paper sheets, creating

pieces that were voluminous and light at the same

38 39

Words by Lei ZhangImages: Maria Cristina Bellucci

‘Coloured pencils’, is like Toto’s secret candy box. It’s filled with pieces

of love from film(Cinema Paradiso) and has always been waiting there to

be picked up. Like childhood memories ‘coloured pencils’ recaptures the

feeling of finishing a school project or turning a heart into a sweetheart,

whether your growing up or growing old. It’s the same bedtime story told

in a new way. For Maria Cristina Bellucci, it materialised into a series of

accessories loved by the child within all adults.

The polished shapes of

leads are full of dynamic

changes and energy.

ACCESSORIEStime. My more recent work is characterized

by having more solid looking elements and

also by the introduction of color, not previously

explored.

How have you thought to use everyday

colour pencils as a product for your

material?

I’ve began using only one pencil with silver

and then I’ve thought to put together different

pencils because the hexagonal section gives

the possibility to have a continuous surface

with a lot of different colours.

Did your theatre costume designing

experience influence your accessory

designing, especially the ‘colour pencils’

collection?

You can’t see a direct influence in my jewellery

research, the method and the purpose of the

work are so different. But at the same time I

made a lot of practice experiences in a very

different way from my present work.

How long does it take to finish one ‘colour

pencils’ piece? Is the material easy to

work with?

I take a lot of time to give the right volume to

the object and especially to make the surface

of the pencils so smooth.

Any plans or new projects for 2011?

I’m working on a new project with other

materials. I’ll need a time to go on with this

idea. At the same time I’ll take part in some

exhibitions with my jewellery with coloured

pencils in the next months in Germany,

Australia and Latvia.

http://www.mcbjewellery.com/

2322

Created by Spanish sisters Ana and Marta, Abataba, the handmade jewelry, is made for optimistic and cheerful people who look for something different. How different? Well let’s say, if you got the whole collection of Abataba Sweet together, then you’re ready to hold a party for Tinker bell and her fairy friends.

Not joking, Abataba’s sweet accessories look just as yummy and warm as those Christmas indulgences. Freshly popped toast, sweet apple pie, donuts with thick chocolate, and those lovely macaroons! With Christmas around the corner, what else could be better than Abataba’s sweets to make you remember the warm, fragrant odor of mother’s kitchen? And, as a sugarfree advocate, I have to confess I would never take real sweets to cure my blues; instead, I’d wear an Abataba ring and take a taxi to someone who is always there, waiting for me till breakfast.

Breakfast at

Sweet accessories by AbatabaWords by Lei Zhang

Photos by www.abataba.com

With Christmas around the corner, what else could be better than Abataba’s sweets to make you remember the warm, fragrant odor of mother’s kitchen?

Breakfast at Tiffany’s, has nothing to do with being delicious, though the quiet and proud look might calm the sweetly vulnerable and lonely soul of someone such as Audrey Hepburn. However, with Christmas impending (whether you like or not), this year lonely Audreys should all jump in a cab and head over to Abataba’s, because there, they’re going to have the sweetest and warmest breakfast of the year!

スペイン人姉妹の AnaとMarta Abataba によって作られているハンドメイド・アクセサリーのブランドで、他の人とは違ったものを求めている楽しく、元気のある人たちに向けて作られているの。どう違うかって？そうね、それは例えば、あなたが Abataba の”sweets” コレクションを全て手に入れることができたら、ティンカーベルと、妖精のお友達のパーティーをそのまま開くことができるくらい。

実際のところ、Abataba のスウィーツアクセは本当においしそうでほんわかしていて、まさにクリスマスのお菓子みたい。焼きたてのトースト、とろける甘さのアップルパイ、チョコがたっぷりかかったドーナツ、そしてラブリーなマカロン！クリスマスがすぐそこまでやってきている今、ママの温かい、甘い香りに満ちたキッチンを思い出すのにAbatabaの “sweets” 以上にいいものある？ そして、糖分を断っている私は、正直に言うと、気分が落ち込んだからといって実際にスウィーツを口にすることはないの。その代わりにAbataba のリングをして、私のためにいつもいてくれて、朝食まで待っていてくれる人の所までタクシーで行くの。

「ティファニーで朝食を」はいいお味とはなんら関係ないけど、落ちついて、自信に満ちあふれた姿が、オードリー・ヘップバーンのように純粋で傷つきやすく、孤独な心を癒すのを助けていたのかもしれない。いずれにしても、クリスマスは否が応でもやってくる。孤独なオードリーたちは、タクシーに飛び乗ってAbataba へ向かうべきね。そこでは今年一番の甘く、心温まる朝食が待っているわ！

クリスマスがすぐそこまでやってきている今、ママの温かい、甘い香りに満ちたキッチンを思い出すのにAbatabaの“sweets”以上にいいものある？

Abataba’s Abatabaで朝食を

Abataba のスウィーツアクセ

気に入った？www.abataba.com

にアクセスしてお買い物を楽しんでね。 言葉の問題は

sales@en-vie-fashion.com までどうぞ。

Like what you see? Go to www.abataba.com

to make a purchase or email sales@en-vie-fashion.com for language assistance

when making your purchase.

Translated by Noriko L., norikoladjimi@hotmail.co.jp

ACCESSORIES

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An Illustration of FashionFashion Illustrator Laura Laine

日本第二の都市である大阪は、東京の魅力に覆いかぶさってついつい忘れられがちであるが、まあ、それも関西というところなのかもしれない。食い倒れの街で、親しみやすく楽しい事をこよなく愛する大阪人、大阪にはその全てがある。上質なデパートに巨大モール、ひねりの効いた商店街に、アメリカ村と呼ばれる若者大阪ファッションが溢れ出すユニークなショッピングエリア。買い物天国だと感じずにはいられないだろう。 どこに行けばこのショッピングクルージングができるのかって？それならまずは御堂筋界隈へ。御堂筋は大阪を北から南へと走るいわば大動脈。もし都市の善し悪しがそのメインストリートで決まるとすれば、ファッショニスタたちはみな、この広 と々した並木通りはとてもラグジュアリーだと気づくはずだ。この世界の有名ブランドが立ち並ぶ御堂筋ほど、大阪がパワフルなショッピング地であることを示すものはない。そして大阪の中心であなたを待っているのだ。

Osaka, Japan’s second city, is often for-gotten in favour of Tokyo’s glamour, but maybe just maybe, Kansai’s where it’s at. Famous for its culinary flair and the amiable, fun loving nature of its citizens, Osaka has it all. With excellent department stores, huge malls, quirky shõtengai and Amerikamura, a unique shopping district brimming with the latest manifestation of Osakan fashion, you could be forgiven for feeling you’re in shopping heaven. And where can you find this shopping feast? Somewhere close to the Midosuji Boulevard. Osaka’s aorta, runs north to south, and if a city can be judged by its main street then fashionstas take note, this broad boulevard is all luxury. Lined with the world’s best labels and brands, what better place to start showcasing Osaka as a shopping power destination than by showing you the Midosuji. Here’s what’s waiting for you in the heart of Osaka.

御堂筋並木通り日本のショッピングに対する情熱とその質は名高い。このふたつの要素を見てみても、なぜここ、日の昇る国日本に有名高級ブランドが軒を連ねているのかが分かる。

Japan has a reputation for quality and its love of shopping. Combine these two ideals and it’s easy to see why every major luxury fashion brand has set up shop in the land of the rising sun.

Words and photos by Trevor FradgleyTranslated by Yuko M. info@fum-intl.com

The Midosuji Boulevard

ファッションイラストレーション　ファッションイラストレーター Laura Laine

Words by Lei Zhang.Illustrations by Laura Laine

Translation by Yuka Schmechel yuka_schmechel@hotmail.co.jp

Breaking common conceptions about

fashion illustration, the Finnish illustrator’s

palette is seldom filled with more than

three colors. Laine precisely captures

the moment before the tension of each

pose bursts. You can see it in the motion

of the garments, the voluminous, flyway

hair and the blurred intensity in the eyes

Interestingly, Laine’s use of monochro-

matic tones aren’t overly Burtonesque,

but rather imbue the models with a

haunting luxury. Not surprisingly, famed

magazine ‘The New Yorkers’ and high

street fashion brands H&M and ZARA fell

in love with her dark angels. So how on

earth did the Helsinki based, Laura Laine

create these enchanting girls? I recently

asked her for some of her thoughts.

How did you first become interested

in fashion illustration?

Originally I studied fashion at the University

of Art and Design Helsinki, but I realized

quite early in my studies that I wanted

to concentrate on illustrating fashion

rather than designing it. I felt I could best

make my ideas come alive on paper,

and I wanted to tell a story with images,

not with pieces of garment. I’ve always

drawn a lot. Fashion has still remained as

a major source of inspiration for me, but I

have never regretted giving up the actual

designing.

How would you describe your style

as well as the girls you sketched?

I like drawing black and white twisted-

bodied strange girls. I like surreal elements

and atmosphere.

In most of your works, why do you

prefer girls with long and flyway hair

styles and monotones of grey and black?

I like drawing hair because I think it’s a

great element for expression. You can only

go so far with twisting and distorting the

human anatomy to maintain a sense of

the “real”, but with hair the possibilities

are pretty much endless.

I prefer to work in black and white;

grayscale is not a lack of color for me.

I feel I can best express my ideas this

way because they’re more about shape,

texture and line. I feel that rather than

being a supportive element, other color

might often be interference by taking

attention off things I find important. I do

use color sometimes but very sparsely.

A very important element of the grayscale

palette for me is also the mood it creates.

Have your works ever been inspired

or influenced by someone?

I’ve been inspired majorly by the works

of Egon Schiele and Japanese manga.

I don’t find either very current at the

moment but I think the influence is still there.

Which of your projects made your

reputation as a fashion illustration

artist?

I have no idea. Maybe it’s better that way.

In all the brands and magazines you

have worked with so far, how did you

integrate their styles and concepts

into yours?

It’s always different with each client, some

let me work more freely than others. I feel

lucky in a way that I rarely have the need

to compromise a lot. The best kind of

clients are the ones who know what they

are commissioning, and don’t try to make

me adapt to a style they have in mind. Of

course whilst working I keep in the back

of my head always the client so that I don’t

for example go too dark with some images.

As a fashion illustration artist, what

is fashion for you?

A source of inspiration more than

anything else.

Recently, what are you busy with?

I’ve been working with drawings for

an upcoming exhibition in Helsinki.

When the fashion illustration world is being

jammed with so many rich colorful vector

drawings, typical six foot tall downtown girls

as well as their sex-and-the-city life style and

attitudes, Laura Laine’s illustrations are like

silent flowers, blooming in the desert. ファッションイラストレーションの常識を覆すごとく、このフィンランドのイラストレーターはめったに3つ以上の色を使わない。Laineは、服や髪の毛がなびく瞬間、目に霞んだ光が映った瞬間など、それぞれのポーズの最良の瞬間を正確に捉える。おもしろいことにLaineの使う単彩のトーンは、Tim Burtonの作り出す世界(＝「バートネスク」”Burton流の”の意)と近いものがある。だがモデル達を、より忘れがたい程にぜいたくなものに染めてしまうのだ。有名雑誌”The New York-ers”やハイストリートファッションブランドのH&MやZARAが彼女のダークな天使たちに魅せられてしまったのは驚くことではないだろう。ヘルシンキを拠点に活動するLaura Laineが一体どのようにしてこれらの魅惑的な女の子達を作り出したのか？先ごろ、私は彼女にいくつか話を聞いてみた。

ファッションイラストレーションに初めて興味を持ったきっかけは？もともと私はヘルシンキ芸術デザイン大学でファッションの勉強をしていたのだけれど、かなり早い時期に、デザインすることよりもイラストレーションに集中したいんだと気付いたの。自分のアイディアを一番表現できるのは紙の上であり、だから絵で物語を伝えたい。布きれじゃなくてね。私はいつも絵をたくさん描

ファッションイラストレーションの世界が豪華な色で埋め尽くされている頃、”セックス・アンド・シティー”の彼女達のようなライフスタイルと姿勢を持つ都会派女性、Laura Laineのイラストは砂漠の中に静かに咲く一輪の花のようである。

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いていたわ。ファッションは今でも私にとって重要なインスピレーションの源なの。でもデザインするのをあきらめたことを後悔したことは一度もないわ。

あなたのイラストのスタイルとあなたが描く女の子たちをどのように表現しますか？黒と白で体のねじれた変わった女の子を描くのが好きなの。超現実的な要素と雰囲気が好きね。

ほとんどのあなたの作品には、グレーや黒のモノトーンカラーで長い髪をなびかせた女の子が描かれていますが、それはなぜですか？髪の毛を描くことは表現上とても重要な要素だと思うの、だから好きよ。人間の体の”リアルさ”を保つのに、体をねじったり歪めたりするには限界があるけど、髪の毛があるとその可能性は無限大に広がると言ってもいいわ。私は黒と白で描くのが好きで、グレースケールは私にとっては悲しい色ではないの。私のアイディアを一番良く表現できる方法だと思うわ。なぜなら、形、質感、線がより引き立つと思うから。他の色は補助的な要素であるよりも、大事なことを見つける邪魔をしているように感じるの。ごくまれに他の色を使うこともあるわ。私にとってグレースケールの大事な要素はそれ自体が生み出すムードにあると思うの。

あなたの作品が、誰かに影響を受けたりインスパイアーされたりしたことはありますか？私はEgon Schieleと日本の漫画にすごくインスパイアーされているわ。どちらも今とても

流行しているものではないけれど影響はまだあると思うわ。

あなたが手がけたプロジェクトの中で、どれがあなたのファッションイラストレーション・アーティストとしての評判を作り上げたと思いますか？全く分からないわ。そういう方がいいのかもしれないわね。

これまでいろんなブランドや雑誌と仕事をされてきましたが、どのように彼らのコンセプトやスタイルをあなたのスタイルにまとめてきたんですか？それぞれのクライアントによっていつも違うわ。自由にやらせてくれるところもあれば、そうでないところも。私がラッキーだと思うのは、妥協しなければならないことがほとんどないってこと。一番良いクライアントは、何を求めているかはっきりしている人、そして私を彼らのスタイルに無理に変えようとしない人ね。もちろん一緒に仕事をしている時はそのクライアントを一番に考えているから、彼らのイメージに沿って、例えば絵が暗くなりすぎるようなこともないわ。

ファッションイラストレーション・アーティストとして、あなたにとってファッションとは何ですか？一番のインスピレーションの源ね。

最近はどんな仕事をされているんですか？もうすぐヘルシンキで行われる展示会のために絵を描いているわ。

Like what you see?

Go to http://www.lauralaine.net/

to find out more.

もっと知るには？お問い合わせ先：http://www.lauralaine.net/

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Iris Van Herpen, a brand new blood in the fashion industry,

graduated in 2006 from the ArtEZ Institute of Arts in Arnhem,

the Netherlands. Like what her world-renowned peers, Dutch

designers Viktor & Rolf contributed to international fashion

stage with their extraordinarily theatrical fashion shows, Iris

Van Herpen’s edgy and futuristic designs also maintain the

modernist idea of conceptuality and abstraction, which are

proof that the Dutch are not only good at pushing back

boundaries but also keep providing a source of inspiration

for stylists and designers all over the world.

On November 6, 2010, she won The Mercedes-Benz Dutch

Fashion Award for her collection that embodied “modern

creativity in couture,” People are respectfully being patient

when it comes to her becoming big international success,

but personally I hope she “gets bored,” soon. Luckily, when

I asked her a few questions she was very forthcoming.

The Best Conceptual

Fashion: 2

2011

Words by Lei ZhangPhotos by Rollan Didier

Runway Photo source: http://www.irisvanherpen.com/

Iris Van Herpen

and Ron Arad, one of the world’s most successful

contemporary designers, agrees with the notion.

Perhaps this is what so easily explains the young, avant-

garde fashion designer, Iris Van Herpen, who holds

such rare power as to make each of her live shows

jaw-dropping and brimming with the unexpected.

What makes Iris’s design truly stand out is

how she interprets her design philosophy—

“re-evaluating reality,” through each hand-

made piece.

“Modern Creativity in Couture.”“Boredom is the mother of creativity”

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For the Synesthesia collection, where did you draw

inspiration from?

For my Synesthesia collection I was inspired by the extreme

sensitivity some people experience because their senses

are linked to each other- Synesthesia. This results in them

being able to feel colours, see music and taste something

visual. I have it a little bit, music gets visualized automatically

sometimes with me, which is really fascinating. It is a way to

experience things differently, more sensitive. And I wish I could

have it more, then I could ´taste´ my designs for example.

In the collection I have approached the body as a manipulative,

sensitive and fragile object by enlarging body parts through

transparency, movement and extreme repetition so as to

emphasize extremely refined craftsmanship. I also worked

with different reflective glossy foil to confuse the eyes and to

give clothing an extra dimension by combining movement with

liveliness. I wonder if in the future clothing will support some

of our senses or even take over.

We also found you have been experimenting with

different techniques in the designing process, can you

tell us a little bit about it?

I like to work with new techniques to increase and challenge

myself. For example; for my Chemical Crows collection I made

brass sculptures (huge jewellery in dress forms) to turn my

crows visually into gold. That was something very difficult to

make, no sewing machine or patterns could be used. For my

Crystallization collection I worked with the transparent material

PET-G, that I turned into a totally transparent water-dress

without any seams. I did that with a big heat-blower. That took

a lot of experimenting to make it like I wanted, and the rapid

prototyping, the technique that I am extending for my coming

collection. I collaborate with the architect Daniel Widrig and

the 3D print company MGX by Materialise.

This technique took a long time to research and to be able to

work with it well. I still find it difficult because it is so technical

and so different from what I am used to doing but I like the

challenge very much. I would get bored if I kept on using the

materials and techniques I already knew.

Any plan, hopes or projects for 2011?

To start with, I will show my couture collection in Paris in

January. In February I’ll exhibit at NY Fashion Week. I’m also

doing a chocolate project for Hong Kong.

“I was inspired by the extreme sensitivity

some people experience because their

senses are linked to each other —

Synesthesia. This results in them being

able to feel colours, see music and taste

something visual.”

“For my Crystallization collection I worked

with the transparent material PET-G, that

I turned into a totally transparent water-

dress without any seams.”

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Words by Lei ZhangTranslation by Daria Miura

Daria Miura

Lei Zhang

Ladies and Gentlemen, welcome to the post-

fashion era! The time when fashion editors dictated

wardrobe cleaning or trends were set only by elite

designers and celebrities, will soon become history.

Thanks to revolutionary channels like blogs

and tweets, fashion amateurs have become more

confident and comfortable expressing their own

personal styles. The diversity of these perspectives

are beginning to more or less inspire the whole

industry and can be even seen in a single designer’s

collection, for instance, Diane von Furstenburg‘s

spring 2010 collection.

As amateurs keep voicing and making differe-

nces in the fashion industry, it might soon be that

bloggers like Diane Pernet and the teenage media

sensation Tavi will exert as much influence as power

editors and critics like Anna Wintour.

Are traditional fashion magazines due to become

the next extinct thing, just like the apparent finial

destiny of traditional newspapers and books? Are

we facing the demise of the platform or will the

e-mag continue the dominance the paper mag

used to hold? Regardless of the outcome, the ever

digitalizing of fashion will only make things better

for those of us looking for choice. With designers

having greater access to the perspectives of those

who wear their fashion, aesthetic turnovers will be

much faster and merchandise will become more

alert to every possible desire. As for those of us who

blog, tweet and express ourselves online, it may just

be that we are the ones who will be deciding what’s

hot and what’s not.

Ladies and Gentlemen, this is how the Post-fashion

era works.

皆さん、ポスト・ファッション紀元にようこそ！

ビッグデザイナー、ファッション・エディター、そしてセ

レブたちが私たち皆のワードローブをコントロールする

ような時代はもうすぐ過去の事となります。

ブログやTwitterの様な革命的なチャンネルのおか

げで、ファッションの新人達でも自分を表現や才能を発

揮出来るようになり、ファッション企業や有名デザイナ

ーに影響するまでになりました。Diane von Fursten-

burgの２０１０年スプリング／サマーコレクションはそ

の例のひとつです。

アメリカ版ヴォーグの編集者、パワフルな Anna

Wintourと同じくらいの影響力を手に入れたファッショ

ンブロガーのDiane Pernetかまだ１０代のセンセーシ

ョナルなTaviたちが最近話題になっています。

本や新聞などのトラディッショナルな印刷物はますま

すインターネットに淘汰されようとしているなか、ファッ

ション雑誌の行方は？とは考えても、ファッションのデジ

タル化は、あくまでも選択肢を求める私たちの為、自分の

作品はどう映るかと知っておきたいデザイナーの為、素

早くあらゆるニーズに応えようとしているマーチャンダイ

ザーの為の最高の手段で、何が人気、何が面白くない、と

自由に束縛されずに共有出来る可能性なのです。

皆さん、これこそポスト・ファッション紀元の実態です。

Here it Comes,

the Post Fashion Era!

ポスト・ファッション紀元

If the Queen of Fashion Marie Antoinette

woke up someday in our time, she would

first browse her favorite fashion blogs for

inspiration for the day’s dressing, and then

download the latest issue of Vogue France

to her iPad. After that, she might start

to twitter about her newest looks and

forthcoming parties, just like anyone of us.

もしファッションの女王、Marie Antoinetteが今の時代に生きていれば、きっと毎朝起きてすぐ好きなファッション・ブログで今日の服装を決め、そして最新号のフランス版ヴォーグを手持ちのiPadにダウンロードをするのでしょう。 それから、私たち皆と変わらずに、自分のルックスについてTwitterでつぶやきながら、パーティのスケジュールをチェックするに違いないでしょう。

Words by Lei ZhangTranslation by Daria MiuraImages by Ross Wirtanen

Thank you for your time!